audio recording on IC -help wanted

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On Sun, 09 Mar 2008 16:39:25 -0500, John Fields
<jfields@austininstruments.com> wrote:

On Sun, 9 Mar 2008 07:14:31 -0700 (PDT), bill.sloman@ieee.org wrote:

On Mar 9, 2:40 pm, John Fields <jfie...@austininstruments.com> wrote:
On Sun, 9 Mar 2008 04:42:53 -0700 (PDT), bill.slo...@ieee.org wrote:
On Mar 9, 10:47 am, "Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terr...@earthlink.net
wrote:
Hello folks,

I am getting cheap these days, I am trying to cut corner by tripling the
capacitance in the capacitor, is this possible?  I have heard that it's
possible.  Some people have done it successfully.  I am just wondering if
any of you smart dumbass can help.

If you weren't quite the ill-informed idiot that you are, you'd know
that the dielectric in an electrolytic capacitor is formed by the
electrolytic oxidation of the surface of the aluminium foil the forms
the plates of the capacitor.

---
LOL, hook, line, and sinker! :

http://www.vcomp.co.uk/tech_tips/reform_caps/reform_caps.htm

If you weren't another uninformed idiot, you'd realise that the
proposition is at least potentionaly rational, even though Michael
Terrell is the source. It would be a daft thing to do, but could work,
after a fashion.

---
As you now realize, Michael _wasn't the source, and I disagree with
your proposition that it would be potentially rational.

The reason? Simple.

With a power supply connected opposite to the polarity indicated on
the capacitor, the anode oxide would be reduced but, at the same
time, the cathode would be oxidized leaving the total thickness of
the dielectric about the same, consequently keeping the capacitance
about the same.

I'm running a series of experiments to determine if that's the case,
and I'll post the results when I'm done.
Click to expand...
Cool. I dare make a prediction. You will get many failures, but
occasionally get a nonpolar capacitor of 20% to 30% more capacitance
and about 1/3 the voltage rating. Let us know, the second result if
and when it occurs will take almost 10 times as long.
 
On Jul 30, 11:06 pm, "Yianni" <9jir_2...@yahoo.gr> wrote:
I've found none similar logo sign (e.g. herehttp://info.electronicwerkstatt.de/bereiche/bauteile/ic_logo/orhttp://www.dobbertin-elektronik.de/programm/logos/logos.htm).
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theier web site. Any suggestion?

--
Yianni
9jir_2...@yahoo.gr
(Remove the number nine from my email address to send me email)
Click to expand...
If the logo's directions is straight and is not diagonal, it is very
close to Integrated Device Technology ( www.idt.com ).
 
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On Wed, 12 Sep 2007 16:56:19 +0100 "Graham W"
<graham@his.com.puter.INVALID> wrote in Message id:
<13eg37c4a9nn171@corp.supernews.com>:

JW wrote:
On Wed, 12 Sep 2007 14:04:59 +0100 "Graham W"
graham@his.com.puter.INVALID> wrote in Message id:
13efp4lmkfnis34@corp.supernews.com>:

JW wrote:
Here's one that has me puzzled: I have a HP 6034A power supply that
does not come out of self-test when powered up. Internally I traced
the problem to the TI TMS9981 CPU itself
(Datasheet http://www.datasheetarchive.com/pdf/3434384.pdf)

On power up, the Interrupt code present on it's IC0 - IC2 pins is
000 (reset) it never exits reset. Tracing back through a few TTL
glue chips I found that a quad latch has no clock with which to
pass D to Q. The clock for the latch is derived from the TMS9981's
pin 21 "03" clock output - which appears to be floating at 2 volts.
If I isolate pin 21 of the CPU, it goes to a low state. It's not an
open collector output AFAICT, so I check the CLKIN and OSCOUT pins
(33 and 34) where the crystal is located. Looks fine at 9.2MHz,
levels look good. Check +5 and +12 and GND - looks good. So, must
be a bad CPU, right? Nope. I place a "known good" CPU in - same
result, no "03" clock output on pin 21. I'm stumped or missing
something here... Anyone have any ideas? Even a "That makes no
sense to me either" would be appreciated.



Is something holding up the "o3" o/p?

By "holding up" do you mean another device on the trace that is
defective? If so, I don't think so - as I said, I lifted and isolated
the pin 21 clock output on the CPU chip (it's in a socket) and it's
output went to zero volts, but that's it. Near as I can tell from the
datasheet, all that could be required for the clock output would be
GND, +5, +12, and an oscillator which appears to be functioning. It
makes no sense whatsoever.

Thanks Graham.

So with the IC pin lifted, does the socket trace still show +2V?
Click to expand...
Yes, but in my experience that would be expected, as TTL inputs would do
that if nothing was driving them.
 
Hi,
First of all let me apologise for my ignorance of electronics, but
hopefully some kind sole out there may take pity on me and be able to
help me with my problem.
The problem I have is with the instrument cluster on my car which has
recently developed a fault. After a lot of Internet trawling I have
discovered that the fault is caused by the MC68HC908AZ60 2J74Y chip,
this chip is responsible for driving all of the gauges, dials and
lamps etc.
The fault takes the form of the gauges & warning lamps pulsing &
flashing when the ignition is turned on. This fault condition can last
anywhere between 20 seconds & a few minutes before the instruments
return to normal operation. My research has turned up the fact that
the fault is temperature related & when it's cold the fault persists
for longer than it does when it is warmer.

Is it possible to read this chip if it were removed from the
instrument cluster?

I have read that the chip is code protected but then I have read of
them being read so I'm a bit confused?

If it can be read can I buy a new chip & programme the dump of the
defective chip (if it's possible to get one) onto the new chip?

What would sort of programmer would I need to do this?

Thank you & here's hoping for some advice with this problem.


Regards.
 
So I have two 50pint/day dehumidifiers. Both failed in the same
way. The cooling fan seized, the exaporator iced over & the compressor
stalled. The Klixon overload soon comitted suicide.

I'm looking for surplus stores with Klixon overloads. I find one size at
Electronicsurplus, but the existing one has a non-Klixon pn# [as well as
FSP 1167004] that I can't cross, so I'm just guessing if it will work.

I can buy the correct Klixon from appliance parts houses for a mere $40
or so. Gee, thanks...

[They are labeled "Comfort-aire" D50A2 & full of FSP part #'s.
The 800 254-1301 on the case goes to Whirlpool's No-Help Call Center
where they deny having anything to do with it...]


--
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& no one will talk to a host that's close........[v].(301) 56-LINUX
Unless the host (that isn't close).........................pob 1433
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item number 150211941435
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TGA8014 datasheet and PDF
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TGA8014 Description

The TriQuint TGA8014-SCC is a two-stage GaAs monolithic medium power
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power at 1 dB gain compression of 0.5 watt. Ground is provided to the
circuitry through vias to the backside metallization.

The small size and inherent reliability advantages of a monolithic
device over a hybrid design make this device attractive for use in a
variety of military applications. Used in a balanced configuration,
the TGA8014-SCC effectively addresses applications such as driver and
power stages in EW amplifiers, local oscillator buffers, and TWT
replacement amplifiers.

Bond pad and backside metallization is gold plated for compatibility
with eutectic alloy attachment methods as well as the thermcompression
and thermosonic wirebonding processes. The TGA8014-SCC is supplied in
chip form and is readily assembled using automated equipment.
 
John Robertson wrote:
Looking for a few (5ish) 140/450VDC low ESR caps as used for Strobe
light power supplies. These have two 10/32 bolts on raised studs on one
end (Radial-like) and are series 36D POWERLYTIC.
Click to expand...
Just a thought: the flash units in throwaway cameras have nice 120 uF
330V caps on them, most likely low ESR. The ones I'm looking at are
Rubycon and marked "PHOTO-FLASH".

--
We can't possibly imprison 300 million Americans for not paying their
taxes, so let's grant all of them amnesty NOW!
 
I'm working on a battery charger / discharger design. There is always the
possibility that someone will connect a battery reverse polarity. I don't
want this to destroy the charger. I remember the stuff about correctly
biasing transistors but how will a BJT or MOSTES act if you have Collector
Emitter or Drain Source reverse biased? I'm trying to avoid diodes in the
discharge circuit unless the are required as I want to be able to dicharge
to 1V while measuring current and voltage.

I tried this on simulation and it seems to work (not conduct) but I don't
know if the simulation is realistic with reverse bias. I can also get a 1A
diode to work at 500A in simulation.

Thanks!

RogerN
 
I've gotten myself into a spot of trouble, and would
appreciate some help with it.

This is a Bolun WR-601 wireless microphone, specifically the
receiver for that system, which is powered by a single AAA
alkaline battery. Current is 52 ma. with a new battery.
The system transmits at about 116 MHz.

I am changing the output connector of the receiver from a
1/4" phone plug (not all that useful anymore) to a 1/8"
socket, and that required cutting a notch in the PC board,
which in turn required moving a couple components. While
desoldering and resoldering one component, one lead pulled
out of it, so I need to replace this component with
something.

It is light green, and looks pretty much like a 1/4W
resistor. It is the only component connecting the positive
terminal of the battery to the On/Off switch.

The color bands are orange, orange, gold, silver. So that
would be either a 3.3-ohm resistor, or a 3.3 uH inductor.

I broke it apart, and it is indeed made of very fine copper
wire wound on a core of non-conductive black stuff.

Markings on the board are not all that helpful, but near
enough to possibly apply, but not necessarily, is
something that *might* read "L1".

Well, I'm leaning pretty hard toward it being an inductor,
probably to filter out any RF stuff that might be picked up
around the battery. And I can't think of a good reason to
have a 3.3-ohm resistor in that position. But I just wanted
to see if that makes sense to people who, unlike me, know
what they're doing.

If it is an inductor, I also need to know what I can get
away with as a replacement. I assume a jumper wire *might*
work well enough, but I also happen to have an inductor with
color bands blue, gold, grey, silver that came in a R/S coil
assortment. I have a dim memory of there being a slightly
modified color band scheme where the gold band acts like a
decimal point. If that's right, then this would be 6.8 uH,
which is only about double the original. In fact, I have
two of those, if that helps, so I could parallel them and
end up really close.

Well, I would appreciate some expert thoughts about this.
If it sounds like it's an inductor, the question is how
close the replacement needs to be. Am I right about the
value of the R/S inductors? If not, could I just make the
right coil myself?

Thanks for any suggestions.

By the way, for anyone interested, I got this system on Ebay for
$12.48 including shipping from Hong Kong. It actually works. You
get the lapel mic, the transmitter, and the receiver, but no
batteries. Works up to 20M away. Uses FM. Not exactly hi-fi, but
seems good enough for voice. It's available from several sellers.
The one I bought from was:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330174450908
 
On Mar 9, 10:39 pm, John Fields <jfie...@austininstruments.com> wrote:
On Sun, 9 Mar 2008 07:14:31 -0700 (PDT), bill.slo...@ieee.org wrote:
On Mar 9, 2:40 pm, John Fields <jfie...@austininstruments.com> wrote:
On Sun, 9 Mar 2008 04:42:53 -0700 (PDT), bill.slo...@ieee.org wrote:
On Mar 9, 10:47 am, "Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terr...@earthlink..net
wrote:
Hello folks,

I am getting cheap these days, I am trying to cut corner by tripling the
capacitance in the capacitor, is this possible?  I have heard that it's
possible.  Some people have done it successfully.  I am just wondering if
any of you smart dumbass can help.

If you weren't quite the ill-informed idiot that you are, you'd know
that the dielectric in an electrolytic capacitor is formed by the
electrolytic oxidation of the surface of the aluminium foil the forms
the plates of the capacitor.

---
LOL, hook, line, and sinker! :

http://www.vcomp.co.uk/tech_tips/reform_caps/reform_caps.htm

If you weren't another uninformed idiot, you'd realise that the
proposition is at least potentionaly rational, even though Michael
Terrell is the source. It would be a daft thing to do, but could work,
after a fashion.

---
As you now realize, Michael _wasn't the source, and I disagree with
your proposition that it would be potentially rational.

The reason?  Simple.

With a power supply connected opposite to the polarity indicated on
the capacitor, the anode oxide would be reduced but, at the same
time, the cathode would be oxidized leaving the total thickness of
the dielectric about the same, consequently keeping the capacitance
about the same.

I'm running a series of experiments to determine if that's the case,
and I'll post the results when I'm done.
Click to expand...
If Wikipedia is right

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrolytic_capacitor

then so are you. It isn't a foregone conclusion - some electrolytic
capacitor manufacturers might not use pure aluminium for the counter-
foil and it wouldn't take much of the wrong metal oxide in the
oxidised film to make it conductive enough to be irrelevant.

Best of luck with your experiments.

--
Bill Sloman, Nijhmegen
 
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