Guest
On Sat, 4 Nov 2017 21:19:48 +0000 (UTC), RS Wood <rswood@is.invalid>
wrote:
Most definitely!
wrote:
Most definitely!
C
Clifford Heath
Guest
On 05/11/17 08:19, RS Wood wrote:
I suspect that better computer simulation, especially thermal
modeling, has the most to do with it. There are manufacturing
breakthroughs also, like bearing seals that actually seal the
bearings, and better materials. Better anti-corrosion chemistry.
Stuff like that.
Clifford Heath
I suspect that better computer simulation, especially thermal
modeling, has the most to do with it. There are manufacturing
breakthroughs also, like bearing seals that actually seal the
bearings, and better materials. Better anti-corrosion chemistry.
Stuff like that.
Clifford Heath
Guest
On Sat, 4 Nov 2017 21:19:50 +0000 (UTC), RS Wood <rswood@is.invalid>
wrote:
manufacturing, and to a VERY large extent, advances in engine
controls.
Lead free gasoline has a LARGE effect on the improvement of engine
life, as along with the lead, phosphorous was also virtually
eliminated in the fuel. This means a lot less acids in the oil,
exhaust, etc. With the replacement of carb and chike with EFI, there
is less fuel dilution - and electronic ignition and timing advance
just adds to the improvements. In 1959, the auto was still an
adolescent - it has matured over the ensuing decades in SO many ways.
Rust and corrosion control has come SO far, even since the eighties
that there is really no reason a car body should rust today - and the
bodies, although MUCH lighter, do last 2, 3, even 5 times as long.
Car finishes as well - was not uncommon for a 3 or 4 year old car to
require a repaint in the old days - now MOST go to the scrapyard
wearing their original coat of paint - - - - even with water based
paints!!!!
Often TWICE a year - spring and fall tuneups were common.
Better design, engine controls, lubricants, and no more leaded gas.
Most did - but there were (natable) exceptions.
Also, how long have you been driving? What is the oldest car you have
owned??
They ARE easier to repair - in general.
wrote:
No, it's because of advances in metalurgy, lubrication,
manufacturing, and to a VERY large extent, advances in engine
controls.
Lead free gasoline has a LARGE effect on the improvement of engine
life, as along with the lead, phosphorous was also virtually
eliminated in the fuel. This means a lot less acids in the oil,
exhaust, etc. With the replacement of carb and chike with EFI, there
is less fuel dilution - and electronic ignition and timing advance
just adds to the improvements. In 1959, the auto was still an
adolescent - it has matured over the ensuing decades in SO many ways.
Rust and corrosion control has come SO far, even since the eighties
that there is really no reason a car body should rust today - and the
bodies, although MUCH lighter, do last 2, 3, even 5 times as long.
Car finishes as well - was not uncommon for a 3 or 4 year old car to
require a repaint in the old days - now MOST go to the scrapyard
wearing their original coat of paint - - - - even with water based
paints!!!!
Often TWICE a year - spring and fall tuneups were common.
Better design, engine controls, lubricants, and no more leaded gas.
Most did - but there were (natable) exceptions.
Also, how long have you been driving? What is the oldest car you have
owned??
They ARE easier to repair - in general.
Guest
On Sat, 4 Nov 2017 21:49:28 +0000 (UTC), RS Wood <rswood@is.invalid>
wrote:
more complete combustion. Stainless steel doesn't hurt either.
wrote:
No lead and phosphorous in the gas makes a BIG difference - as does
more complete combustion. Stainless steel doesn't hurt either.
Guest
On Sat, 4 Nov 2017 22:37:59 +0000 (UTC), RS Wood <rswood@is.invalid>
wrote:
That's why you set the camber and caster FIRST!!!!
wrote:
That's why you set the camber and caster FIRST!!!!
Guest
On Sat, 4 Nov 2017 16:33:57 -0700, The Real Bev <bashley101@gmail.com>
wrote:
SNIPP
KD makes a special tool for that - at the value O put on skin and
suffering, cheap at twice the price
wrote:
SNIPP
KD makes a special tool for that - at the value O put on skin and
suffering, cheap at twice the price
Guest
On Sat, 4 Nov 2017 10:09:29 -0400, Ed Pawlowski <esp@snet.net> wrote:
I dont know why this is posted to sci.electronics.repair, but since it's
here, I have done all of the 7 on the list above. As far as 2.
alignment, I cant say it was a perfect job. I did it with a tape measure
and boards, after replacing some front end parts. I got it close, so I
could at least drive it, but I took it to an alignment shop soon after.
That is one thing a homeowner just cant do accurately without proper
equipment. I never rebuillt an entire engine, but I replaced a few as
well as transmissions. In my old age, I dont work on a much of that
stuff as I did years ago. I still do my own brakes, and oil changes and
stuff like that. But I wont tackle engine changes or any of that heavy
work anymore. And I wont mount tires anymore. That was always a tough
job withoiut a tire machine and only saved me about $12. Not worth the
hassle.
I once painted a whole truck with a paint brush. I added some stuff to
make the paint flow nicely. A lot of people thought I was crazy, and
said you need a sprayer. In the end, it turned out pretty good. It was
an old truck anyhow, but the paint made it look better and stopped a lot
of rusting. Although spraying is easier to apply, the taping and
preparation offsets any time savings. With a quality brush, I cut in a
good edge around windows and chrome and other body stuff.
To get back ON TOPIC, I have done a lot of car wiring and changing
radios and that sort of thing. Knowing electronics makes car wiring very
easy, except it's often hard to get to some of the wires, especially
under the car, and under the dashboard.
The mini van I drive now, was at a used car lot. The guy said he could
not sell it to me until someone fixed the headlights (they did not
work). He had already replaced the bulbs and the switch. He told me to
come back the next day, after he got a wiring professional there to fix
it. I went there the next day. When I got there, he had a guy under the
hood trying ot fix them. I watched the guy and he was not succeeding. A
half hour later that guy told the seller that he could not fix it, and
the car would have to be taken to the dealership.
After that guy left, I offered to buy the car AS-IS for $500 less thn
the asking price. The seller said that according to his dealers license
he is not supposed to sell a car without headlights, but he would note
in writing on the sales slip "headlights do not work", and accepted my
offer, except he said I had to pay for the new headlight bulbs. (about
$20). I accepted the offer.
When I got it home, I had the headlights working in less than an hour.
There are relays under the hood, in the fuse box, and one of them was
bad. For me, that was a simple fix. Apparently the so called
"professional" who he had working on it, was not very bright!!!
I dont know why this is posted to sci.electronics.repair, but since it's
here, I have done all of the 7 on the list above. As far as 2.
alignment, I cant say it was a perfect job. I did it with a tape measure
and boards, after replacing some front end parts. I got it close, so I
could at least drive it, but I took it to an alignment shop soon after.
That is one thing a homeowner just cant do accurately without proper
equipment. I never rebuillt an entire engine, but I replaced a few as
well as transmissions. In my old age, I dont work on a much of that
stuff as I did years ago. I still do my own brakes, and oil changes and
stuff like that. But I wont tackle engine changes or any of that heavy
work anymore. And I wont mount tires anymore. That was always a tough
job withoiut a tire machine and only saved me about $12. Not worth the
hassle.
I once painted a whole truck with a paint brush. I added some stuff to
make the paint flow nicely. A lot of people thought I was crazy, and
said you need a sprayer. In the end, it turned out pretty good. It was
an old truck anyhow, but the paint made it look better and stopped a lot
of rusting. Although spraying is easier to apply, the taping and
preparation offsets any time savings. With a quality brush, I cut in a
good edge around windows and chrome and other body stuff.
To get back ON TOPIC, I have done a lot of car wiring and changing
radios and that sort of thing. Knowing electronics makes car wiring very
easy, except it's often hard to get to some of the wires, especially
under the car, and under the dashboard.
The mini van I drive now, was at a used car lot. The guy said he could
not sell it to me until someone fixed the headlights (they did not
work). He had already replaced the bulbs and the switch. He told me to
come back the next day, after he got a wiring professional there to fix
it. I went there the next day. When I got there, he had a guy under the
hood trying ot fix them. I watched the guy and he was not succeeding. A
half hour later that guy told the seller that he could not fix it, and
the car would have to be taken to the dealership.
After that guy left, I offered to buy the car AS-IS for $500 less thn
the asking price. The seller said that according to his dealers license
he is not supposed to sell a car without headlights, but he would note
in writing on the sales slip "headlights do not work", and accepted my
offer, except he said I had to pay for the new headlight bulbs. (about
$20). I accepted the offer.
When I got it home, I had the headlights working in less than an hour.
There are relays under the hood, in the fuse box, and one of them was
bad. For me, that was a simple fix. Apparently the so called
"professional" who he had working on it, was not very bright!!!
R
rbowman
Guest
On 11/4/2017 12:17 PM, RS Wood wrote:
It'd the suspense that kills you. My Harley has a belt drive and the
belt failed at around 45000. No sign of damage or deterioration just a
clean break. I rode to work in the morning, came out, started the
engine, let the clutch out and didn't go anyplace.
Replacement is fairly easy on a Sportster but Harley is very proud of
their belts, around $150 iirc. All things considered that's cheaper than
chains if you put significant miles on a bike.
It'd the suspense that kills you. My Harley has a belt drive and the
belt failed at around 45000. No sign of damage or deterioration just a
clean break. I rode to work in the morning, came out, started the
engine, let the clutch out and didn't go anyplace.
Replacement is fairly easy on a Sportster but Harley is very proud of
their belts, around $150 iirc. All things considered that's cheaper than
chains if you put significant miles on a bike.
R
rbowman
Guest
On 11/4/2017 12:17 PM, RS Wood wrote:
The bike I have that has tube tires is a DR650, dual spot, enduro,
whatever you want to call it. I'm not sure if you ever tell if the tire
was balanced with knobbies. Dunlop 606s are really rough but the Kendas
I have on now aren't a Cadillac smooth ride.
You get good at changing them because those style of tires are good for
about 6000 miles at the outside.
The bike I have that has tube tires is a DR650, dual spot, enduro,
whatever you want to call it. I'm not sure if you ever tell if the tire
was balanced with knobbies. Dunlop 606s are really rough but the Kendas
I have on now aren't a Cadillac smooth ride.
You get good at changing them because those style of tires are good for
about 6000 miles at the outside.
R
rbowman
Guest
On 11/4/2017 3:13 PM, TekkieŽ wrote:
The paint fumes didn't help but the #1 guy's choice was Budweiser. #2's
choice was anything he could get his hands on but speed makes painting fun.
The paint fumes didn't help but the #1 guy's choice was Budweiser. #2's
choice was anything he could get his hands on but speed makes painting fun.
C
Clifford Heath
Guest
On 05/11/17 11:33, clare@snyder.on.ca wrote:
My grandfather had a pair of Jowett Javelins in the 1950's.
With the Solex carbies, tuneup's were more of a morning *and* afternoon
thing.
My grandfather had a pair of Jowett Javelins in the 1950's.
With the Solex carbies, tuneup's were more of a morning *and* afternoon
thing.
R
RS Wood
Guest
clare@snyder.on.ca wrote:
Thanks for reminding me that it's caster, then camber, then toe!
I don't know if they teach auto mechanics anymore in high school, but that
class was a godsend, even for me, a college-prep kid.
I used that shop class more than I used calculus in my life.
I betcha they don't even have woodshop for the boys anymore.
Or homeec for the girls.
My grandkids are taking coed cooking classes in high school, but they don't
even offer the shop classes we had when I was a kid.
Thanks for reminding me that it's caster, then camber, then toe!
I don't know if they teach auto mechanics anymore in high school, but that
class was a godsend, even for me, a college-prep kid.
I used that shop class more than I used calculus in my life.
I betcha they don't even have woodshop for the boys anymore.
Or homeec for the girls.
My grandkids are taking coed cooking classes in high school, but they don't
even offer the shop classes we had when I was a kid.
R
RS Wood
Guest
clare@snyder.on.ca wrote:
Yet there is a lot more aluminum in engines nowadays.
I don't see how the lead matters although we all went through the phase
where we switched from leaded cars to lead-free cars and had to change
pumps in the process.
I still don't see how the *gas* has anything to do with engines lasting
longer. Maybe it does, but I don't see the connection.
Yet there is a lot more aluminum in engines nowadays.
I don't see how the lead matters although we all went through the phase
where we switched from leaded cars to lead-free cars and had to change
pumps in the process.
I still don't see how the *gas* has anything to do with engines lasting
longer. Maybe it does, but I don't see the connection.
R
RS Wood
Guest
gfretwell@aol.com wrote:
That reminds me. The white plastic topped and steel legged Costco picnic
tables are *all* cracked and sunburned with holes in the corner.
I've been meaning to return mine to Costco to give them a piece of my mind
since the tables have "lifetime warranty" molded into the cheap plastic.
They should make everything that is plastic intended for outdoors out of
whatever plastic it is that they use for those wheeled garbage bins from
the garbage company.
That reminds me. The white plastic topped and steel legged Costco picnic
tables are *all* cracked and sunburned with holes in the corner.
I've been meaning to return mine to Costco to give them a piece of my mind
since the tables have "lifetime warranty" molded into the cheap plastic.
They should make everything that is plastic intended for outdoors out of
whatever plastic it is that they use for those wheeled garbage bins from
the garbage company.
R
RS Wood
Guest
Clifford Heath wrote:
Oh. That's interesting. What you're saying is that the manufacturers are
using computers to make cars, which helps make better cars.
That may very well be the case, since computers can be used to easily hone
quality, bit by bit by bit, simply because of the inherent re-use that
computers easily allow.
You're right but I don't understand why we used to pack wheel bearings
periodically and now we don't. Who doesn't remember glopping grease on your
palm and then slapping a bearing through that grease?
A kid of 30 or 40 years old doesn't know what we're talking about.
Likewise, who hasn't squirted grease into a ball joint until it squirted
back out of the pregnant rubber cup making farting sounds? Or a driveshaft
u-joint where is just squirted out noiselessly.
What's with bearings nowadays. Why don't wheel bearings need to be packed
anymore and u-joints not need lubrication and ball joints not need it?
What did they do differently?
Oh. That's interesting. What you're saying is that the manufacturers are
using computers to make cars, which helps make better cars.
That may very well be the case, since computers can be used to easily hone
quality, bit by bit by bit, simply because of the inherent re-use that
computers easily allow.
You're right but I don't understand why we used to pack wheel bearings
periodically and now we don't. Who doesn't remember glopping grease on your
palm and then slapping a bearing through that grease?
A kid of 30 or 40 years old doesn't know what we're talking about.
Likewise, who hasn't squirted grease into a ball joint until it squirted
back out of the pregnant rubber cup making farting sounds? Or a driveshaft
u-joint where is just squirted out noiselessly.
What's with bearings nowadays. Why don't wheel bearings need to be packed
anymore and u-joints not need lubrication and ball joints not need it?
What did they do differently?
R
RS Wood
Guest
clare@snyder.on.ca wrote:
Computers help make a lot of things not break.
For example, fuel injection and a distributorless single coil per spark
plug with a nice high voltage all by themselves prevented a billion
tuneups.
The EPA making exhaust systems have to last longer under warranty made the
manufacturers make them out of stainless steel instead of pre-rusted
Detroit steel.
There are computers in plenty of other places (for example, ABS), but other
than the fuel injection, where did computers play a role in engine
longevity?
I'm not saying they didn't, but I don't see how they play a role in engine
longevity other than in the tuneup arena where they were an immense help.
Computers help make a lot of things not break.
For example, fuel injection and a distributorless single coil per spark
plug with a nice high voltage all by themselves prevented a billion
tuneups.
The EPA making exhaust systems have to last longer under warranty made the
manufacturers make them out of stainless steel instead of pre-rusted
Detroit steel.
There are computers in plenty of other places (for example, ABS), but other
than the fuel injection, where did computers play a role in engine
longevity?
I'm not saying they didn't, but I don't see how they play a role in engine
longevity other than in the tuneup arena where they were an immense help.
R
RS Wood
Guest
Ed Pawlowski wrote:
Are the lubricants really contributing to longevity of the engine?
The main lubricant, of course, is motor oil, which has gone from SB to SC,
to SD to SE .... now to somewhere around SL, SM, SN ... but has *that* been
contributing to engine life by a lot?
The other lubricants, of course, are the gear oils, but again, GL4 and GL5
are pretty old stuff.
I don't remember seeing Zerk fittings lately, so I think one thing with
respect to lubrication is they made permanently lubricated driveshaft
u-joints and suspension balljoints.
But really. Do we have any evidence that lubrication is why engines seem to
last longer nowadays?
Are the lubricants really contributing to longevity of the engine?
The main lubricant, of course, is motor oil, which has gone from SB to SC,
to SD to SE .... now to somewhere around SL, SM, SN ... but has *that* been
contributing to engine life by a lot?
The other lubricants, of course, are the gear oils, but again, GL4 and GL5
are pretty old stuff.
I don't remember seeing Zerk fittings lately, so I think one thing with
respect to lubrication is they made permanently lubricated driveshaft
u-joints and suspension balljoints.
But really. Do we have any evidence that lubrication is why engines seem to
last longer nowadays?
R
RS Wood
Guest
gfretwell@aol.com wrote:
I'm going to have to agree that I think the only thing that really changed
over time was the quality.
I think Japan took half of Detroit's profits, and that was the sole
determinant that made Detroit start thinking about quality.
If that's the case, you have to hand it to Japan for even coming up with
the idea of quality in the first place.
Wow. My timing light is still packed away, along with the dwellmeter. Every
once in a while I use the feeler gauges that I used to use for points, but
for something else. Even the spark plug gapper is used, but nowadays only
on the home tools like the leaf blower. I have a contraption that has a
heavy duty switch for "bumping" the engine. I forget even why I *built*
that thing.
Why did we bump the engine? I forget why.
I also still have a dial gauge that I screwed into the number one cylinder
on a motorcycle to time the points on the bike where there is no concept of
a timing light. The points open in millimeters before TDC.
It's rare though for tools to go out of style. I'm still using my first
Christmas gift of Sears Craftsman open-end wrenches, for example.
I'm going to have to agree that I think the only thing that really changed
over time was the quality.
I think Japan took half of Detroit's profits, and that was the sole
determinant that made Detroit start thinking about quality.
If that's the case, you have to hand it to Japan for even coming up with
the idea of quality in the first place.
Wow. My timing light is still packed away, along with the dwellmeter. Every
once in a while I use the feeler gauges that I used to use for points, but
for something else. Even the spark plug gapper is used, but nowadays only
on the home tools like the leaf blower. I have a contraption that has a
heavy duty switch for "bumping" the engine. I forget even why I *built*
that thing.
Why did we bump the engine? I forget why.
I also still have a dial gauge that I screwed into the number one cylinder
on a motorcycle to time the points on the bike where there is no concept of
a timing light. The points open in millimeters before TDC.
It's rare though for tools to go out of style. I'm still using my first
Christmas gift of Sears Craftsman open-end wrenches, for example.
R
RS Wood
Guest
clare@snyder.on.ca wrote:
I'm not going to disagree that engines seem to last twice what they used
to, but is metallurgy really different? There's a lot more aluminum
nowadays, and certainly too much plastic, but rubber is rubber and steel is
steel and I don't think either got all that much better in the interim.
Engine controls maybe. But they're mostly emission related nowadays.
The actual danger zone parts are the oil pressure sensor, coolant
temperature sensor, oil lever sensor, etc., and I don't think they're all
that sophisticated compared to the days of yore, do you?
Hmmmmmmmmmmmm.... really? The fuel contributes to engine life?
I don't dispute. I just don't compute.
I don't disagree that the carburetor is gone, thank God, but it's still in
airplanes and they seem to do fine with them (small planes that is).
While EFI is great stuff, I don't see that the longevity of an engine is
dependent on the fuel volatilization method.
This one I agree with you on, but I blame Detroit for making crap that they
*knew* was crap. Painting can't be all that sophisticated today compared to
yesterday. It just can't be. They just did a lousy job before, I think.
But then again, painting is a job I never did, so, maybe I didn't learn
anything!
I wish I knew more about painting.
> Often TWICE a year - spring and fall tuneups were common.
I agree that points were a weak link that just had to go. I'm not sure why
timing changed, because, as I recall, we twisted the distributor to time
the engine where, the distributor would have no reason to twist back once
locked down.
I think they also used lower-voltage coils in those days, where the wires
seemed paradoxically to require replacement more often. I remember once
diagnosing a misfire where I accidentally worked until it got dark and then
realized there was a light show going on with all the sparks to ground.
Heh heh heh ... working on coils and ignition wires teaches a youngster
with a steel screwdriver a *lot* about electricity wanting to get to
ground!
Oh yeah. I forgot about spark plugs. I had a two-stroke motorcycle, for
example, which couldn't go five hundred miles on a set of plugs.
Now you can easily go 100K where the technology isn't all that fancy on a
plug. It's just a chunk of platinum-plated metal near a few J hooks of cold
steel. I think the higher voltages helped, which, again, paradoxically,
you'd think the higher coil voltages would eat the plugs faster ... not
slower by the process of electrodialectric machining.
> Better design, engine controls, lubricants, and no more leaded gas.
Well, it's *something* that makes car engines last twice what they used to,
but I don't see that we've nailed it yet.
I still think it's simply that Japanaese cars existing made Detroit build
better engines overall.
Most of us old timers have at the very least a million miles under our
belts. When we were kids, all our cars started at 10 or 15 years old, where
that was new to us.
In my salesman days, a car lasted 3 years, but now I'm back to the 15 or 20
year range since I retired long ago.
Such things change over time.
I found that 2WD RWD cars are a LOT easier, for the most part, and also if
you have the option, the six cylinder options when an 8-cylinder option
exists or the 4 cylinder option when a 6 cylinder option exists is a
Godsend because you have so much more room in that engine bay.
She's somewhere in the garden, not the garage.
The kids have kids already too, so they're off somewhere to play.
I get to see them on Thanksgiving though. Thank God for holidays!
You pay for their school. You pay for their grad school.
And then you only get to see them on holidays.
Or when they need their cars fixed!
I'm not going to disagree that engines seem to last twice what they used
to, but is metallurgy really different? There's a lot more aluminum
nowadays, and certainly too much plastic, but rubber is rubber and steel is
steel and I don't think either got all that much better in the interim.
Engine controls maybe. But they're mostly emission related nowadays.
The actual danger zone parts are the oil pressure sensor, coolant
temperature sensor, oil lever sensor, etc., and I don't think they're all
that sophisticated compared to the days of yore, do you?
Hmmmmmmmmmmmm.... really? The fuel contributes to engine life?
I don't dispute. I just don't compute.
I don't disagree that the carburetor is gone, thank God, but it's still in
airplanes and they seem to do fine with them (small planes that is).
While EFI is great stuff, I don't see that the longevity of an engine is
dependent on the fuel volatilization method.
This one I agree with you on, but I blame Detroit for making crap that they
*knew* was crap. Painting can't be all that sophisticated today compared to
yesterday. It just can't be. They just did a lousy job before, I think.
But then again, painting is a job I never did, so, maybe I didn't learn
anything!
I wish I knew more about painting.
> Often TWICE a year - spring and fall tuneups were common.
I agree that points were a weak link that just had to go. I'm not sure why
timing changed, because, as I recall, we twisted the distributor to time
the engine where, the distributor would have no reason to twist back once
locked down.
I think they also used lower-voltage coils in those days, where the wires
seemed paradoxically to require replacement more often. I remember once
diagnosing a misfire where I accidentally worked until it got dark and then
realized there was a light show going on with all the sparks to ground.
Heh heh heh ... working on coils and ignition wires teaches a youngster
with a steel screwdriver a *lot* about electricity wanting to get to
ground!
Oh yeah. I forgot about spark plugs. I had a two-stroke motorcycle, for
example, which couldn't go five hundred miles on a set of plugs.
Now you can easily go 100K where the technology isn't all that fancy on a
plug. It's just a chunk of platinum-plated metal near a few J hooks of cold
steel. I think the higher voltages helped, which, again, paradoxically,
you'd think the higher coil voltages would eat the plugs faster ... not
slower by the process of electrodialectric machining.
> Better design, engine controls, lubricants, and no more leaded gas.
Well, it's *something* that makes car engines last twice what they used to,
but I don't see that we've nailed it yet.
I still think it's simply that Japanaese cars existing made Detroit build
better engines overall.
Most of us old timers have at the very least a million miles under our
belts. When we were kids, all our cars started at 10 or 15 years old, where
that was new to us.
In my salesman days, a car lasted 3 years, but now I'm back to the 15 or 20
year range since I retired long ago.
Such things change over time.
I found that 2WD RWD cars are a LOT easier, for the most part, and also if
you have the option, the six cylinder options when an 8-cylinder option
exists or the 4 cylinder option when a 6 cylinder option exists is a
Godsend because you have so much more room in that engine bay.
She's somewhere in the garden, not the garage.
The kids have kids already too, so they're off somewhere to play.
I get to see them on Thanksgiving though. Thank God for holidays!
You pay for their school. You pay for their grad school.
And then you only get to see them on holidays.
Or when they need their cars fixed!
R
RS Wood
Guest
rbowman wrote:
You're confusing me because you're talking about a drive system for the
rear wheel, where there are three types on motorcycles
a. Chain (most common)
b. Shaft (common on beamers for example)
c. Belt (common harleys I guess)
We were talking about timing belts inside car engines.
The problem with timing belts on some engines is when they break, the
pistons can contact the valves, which is the dumbest bit of engineering I
have ever seen in my life.
In that case, I would agree that the suspense is what kills you because
they may last 60K miles but they may not.
You're confusing me because you're talking about a drive system for the
rear wheel, where there are three types on motorcycles
a. Chain (most common)
b. Shaft (common on beamers for example)
c. Belt (common harleys I guess)
We were talking about timing belts inside car engines.
The problem with timing belts on some engines is when they break, the
pistons can contact the valves, which is the dumbest bit of engineering I
have ever seen in my life.
In that case, I would agree that the suspense is what kills you because
they may last 60K miles but they may not.