Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[WW]

"Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:FxnLk.78463$0t2.41281@newsfe29.ams2...

"WW" <ccco@bresnan.net> wrote in message
news:mcqdnaD0cobfYmDVnZ2dnUVZ_hOdnZ2d@bresnan.com...

"Claude Hopper" <boobooililililil@roadrunner.com> wrote in message
news:6fmdncZlPqXlbWHVnZ2dnUVZ_hidnZ2d@giganews.com...
WW wrote:
"Claude Hopper" <boobooililililil@roadrunner.com> wrote in message
news:K4KdnaQdINVA-mbVnZ2dnUVZ_trinZ2d@giganews.com...
I have been cutting power usage in my home. I have saved about 100 kwh
a
month so far. I put power strips on all the vampire stuff like DVR,
TV,
Stereo, DVD players, etc.. I shut of light timers and motion
detectors.
With the fridge off I still get meter spin, though it is very slow. So
I
shut of the power breaker to the smoke detectors. Meter still spins.
Found my electric tooth brush charger on, shut that off, meter still
spins. Drill charger in the garage, shut that off, meter still spins.
I can't think of anything else. I shut off the Mains 100 amp breaker
and
guess what? The goddamn meter still spins, though slightly, about 30
seconds a click. So nothing is on and my meter spins, what is it, the
meter itself? I'm paying for the power company's meter power?
Check your meter by shutting of your main breaker and see if the meter
still spins. If I have a defective meter I'd like to know.

CH
As a retired electric meterman, Tho only meters I found doing this with
no
connected load was after a near by lightning strike. This could have
happened any time in the past. Call utility company to check it out. If
no
response from them call the PUC (public utility commission). Colorado
has
this. (PUC) WW



So it is possible for lightening to affect an electric meter?

Yes. Damages the potential coil in the meter. WW


This reference is quite a good description of how the electromechanical
type of watt-hour meter works

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electricity_meter

Interestingly, it says that the meter itself consumes about 2 watts, but
it doesn't say if that is all the time, irrespective of whether there is
household current being drawn, or not.I rather suspect that it is all the
time, and is the power required to feed the voltage and lag coils, which
are probably slung directly across the incoming supply - but probably
after the current sensing coil - in which case, this 2 watts of
consumption will be metered, and hence paid for by the consumer.

Question for WW as an ex-meter reader. Are you aware of electro-mechanical
meters having a certified lifetime, and whether they do actually go out of
calibration? And if they do, whether it's typically to the loss of the
supply company, or the consumer ? The reason I ask, is that the utility
company keep sending me letters (addressed to "The Occupier" so good
excuse to ignore them) requesting that I contact them to arrange a time to
come and replace my meter for one of the new electronic ones. I get the
feeling that the 'certified lifetime' tack, is just a smokescreen to get
you to have a remotely readable electronic meter put in for their
convenience, but I would be interested in hearing if anybody has any sure
knowledge of what the real reasons are.

Arfa
Arfa.... I changed out lots of meters as a routine change on years in
service. Many 20 years. Never found a "defective" one. Some tested out 1 or
2 % slow. But in a lightning area replaced many the did not run at all due
to a open potential coil. Also found some that people tampered with to
lower reading. Computer readings found this. Customer was billed what was
owed or power would be terminated. Because of vandals breaking glass we
started using plastic covers. Found one all electric house that showed very
little usage. Meter checked OK. Was running normal in day time. Checked
after dark, lights and maybe heat on and meter did not move. Customer had
drilled a very small hole in plastic cover and had a broom straw inserted
to stall meter disk. The computer always won. WW

 

[Arfa Daily]

Question for WW as an ex-meter reader. Are you aware of
electro-mechanical meters having a certified lifetime, and whether they
do actually go out of calibration? And if they do, whether it's typically
to the loss of the supply company, or the consumer ? The reason I ask, is
that the utility company keep sending me letters (addressed to "The
Occupier" so good excuse to ignore them) requesting that I contact them
to arrange a time to come and replace my meter for one of the new
electronic ones. I get the feeling that the 'certified lifetime' tack, is
just a smokescreen to get you to have a remotely readable electronic
meter put in for their convenience, but I would be interested in hearing
if anybody has any sure knowledge of what the real reasons are.

Arfa
Arfa.... I changed out lots of meters as a routine change on years in
service. Many 20 years. Never found a "defective" one. Some tested out 1
or 2 % slow. But in a lightning area replaced many the did not run at all
due to a open potential coil. Also found some that people tampered with to
lower reading. Computer readings found this. Customer was billed what was
owed or power would be terminated. Because of vandals breaking glass we
started using plastic covers. Found one all electric house that showed
very little usage. Meter checked OK. Was running normal in day time.
Checked after dark, lights and maybe heat on and meter did not move.
Customer had drilled a very small hole in plastic cover and had a broom
straw inserted to stall meter disk. The computer always won. WW

OK. Well that kind of goes along with what I suspected, in that there is no
'valid' reason from a lifetime / calibration angle for replacing the meter,
and that this is just an 'angle' to get the utility company into your house
to fit a remotely readable meter for their convenience.

I expect when they were looking for an angle, some bright spark with a
degree in media archeology or some such modern nonsense, discovered the
original meter manufacturer's spec sheet filed away somewhere, and it said
something like "Calibration Accuracy : 25 years Guaranteed", and that was
it, they had their 'in'. When you get the form letter, which they send about
every 4 weeks, it is written in terms that are just sufficiently 'official'
and alarmist to make it look to the average Joe, who's not reading between
the lines, that the company have some kind of (almost) legal requirement to
come into your house to do this work, and that you need to let them. I hate
the way that we are bombarded all the time now with this pseudo-officialdom.

Thing is, I *like* my analogue meter. It's easy to read, which I do daily to
keep my own eye on what's being used. My mother submitted to demands to
change her meter, and the electronic thing that she has now, is unreadable.
It has a tiny LC screen that has to be looked at squarely to stand a chance,
and you have to juggle about with little pushbuttons to access it even. I
can't read it without my glasses on, so at 86 y o she stands no chance. I
know that in theory, there should not be any need for me or her to read the
meter, as there can't be any errors or estimated readings when a computer is
doing the remote reading, but I think we've probably all been there, and I
would like to just verify what that computer thinks it is charging me ...

Arfa

 

[Dean]

Ken G. wrote:

I have an old asteroids full size vintage video game .
I has a black & white monitor .

When it first comes on its fine . Within 10 minutes the whole image gets
bigger , things disappear off the edges . The center of the screen gets
a bit darker .
I suspected the hi voltage diode off the flyback and adjusting the hi
voltage pot but replacing that did not help .

I dont have any model #s the monitor has one medum circuit board and
one small board with the flyback in a metal box .

Thanks

This is an XY monitor, the scan is very different compared to a normal tv.

Try this Page
http://www.gamearchive.com/Video_Games/Manufacturers/Atari/monitor.html

The fault sounds like b+ is going low, maybe a bad cap in power supply.
I think from memory its 123v to HT Generator Board.

 

[Claude Hopper]

greenpjs wrote:

On Wed, 22 Oct 2008 04:06:04 -0500, "Mark D. Zacharias"
nonsense@nonsense.net> wrote:

"Claude Hopper" <boobooililililil@roadrunner.com> wrote in message
news:K4KdnaQdINVA-mbVnZ2dnUVZ_trinZ2d@giganews.com...
I have been cutting power usage in my home. I have saved about 100 kwh a
month so far. I put power strips on all the vampire stuff like DVR, TV,
Stereo, DVD players, etc.. I shut of light timers and motion detectors.
With the fridge off I still get meter spin, though it is very slow. So I
shut of the power breaker to the smoke detectors. Meter still spins.
Found my electric tooth brush charger on, shut that off, meter still
spins. Drill charger in the garage, shut that off, meter still spins.
I can't think of anything else. I shut off the Mains 100 amp breaker and
guess what? The goddamn meter still spins, though slightly, about 30
seconds a click. So nothing is on and my meter spins, what is it, the
meter itself? I'm paying for the power company's meter power?
Check your meter by shutting of your main breaker and see if the meter
still spins. If I have a defective meter I'd like to know.

According to an instructor I had in tech school in 1980: yes, you pay for
the power the meter consumes. Should be quite minimal, though.

Mark Z.

So, what is a click? I am referring to the OP saying the meter spins
at "30 seconds a click". Is that 1 wh every 30 seconds (120 watts),
0.1 wh every 30 seconds (12 watts) or 0.01 wh every 30 seconds (1.2
watts). I would agree that 1.2 watts is minimal.

(My original attempt at sending a similar response failed. My
apologies if it actually made it to some of you thereby making this
one a duplicate).

A click is the distance between one black line to the next.

--
Claude Hopper

? ? Ľ

 

[Claude Hopper]

Arfa Daily wrote:

Question for WW as an ex-meter reader. Are you aware of
electro-mechanical meters having a certified lifetime, and whether they
do actually go out of calibration? And if they do, whether it's typically
to the loss of the supply company, or the consumer ? The reason I ask, is
that the utility company keep sending me letters (addressed to "The
Occupier" so good excuse to ignore them) requesting that I contact them
to arrange a time to come and replace my meter for one of the new
electronic ones. I get the feeling that the 'certified lifetime' tack, is
just a smokescreen to get you to have a remotely readable electronic
meter put in for their convenience, but I would be interested in hearing
if anybody has any sure knowledge of what the real reasons are.

Arfa
Arfa.... I changed out lots of meters as a routine change on years in
service. Many 20 years. Never found a "defective" one. Some tested out 1
or 2 % slow. But in a lightning area replaced many the did not run at all
due to a open potential coil. Also found some that people tampered with to
lower reading. Computer readings found this. Customer was billed what was
owed or power would be terminated. Because of vandals breaking glass we
started using plastic covers. Found one all electric house that showed
very little usage. Meter checked OK. Was running normal in day time.
Checked after dark, lights and maybe heat on and meter did not move.
Customer had drilled a very small hole in plastic cover and had a broom
straw inserted to stall meter disk. The computer always won. WW


OK. Well that kind of goes along with what I suspected, in that there is no
'valid' reason from a lifetime / calibration angle for replacing the meter,
and that this is just an 'angle' to get the utility company into your house
to fit a remotely readable meter for their convenience.

I expect when they were looking for an angle, some bright spark with a
degree in media archeology or some such modern nonsense, discovered the
original meter manufacturer's spec sheet filed away somewhere, and it said
something like "Calibration Accuracy : 25 years Guaranteed", and that was
it, they had their 'in'. When you get the form letter, which they send about
every 4 weeks, it is written in terms that are just sufficiently 'official'
and alarmist to make it look to the average Joe, who's not reading between
the lines, that the company have some kind of (almost) legal requirement to
come into your house to do this work, and that you need to let them. I hate
the way that we are bombarded all the time now with this pseudo-officialdom.

Thing is, I *like* my analogue meter. It's easy to read, which I do daily to
keep my own eye on what's being used. My mother submitted to demands to
change her meter, and the electronic thing that she has now, is unreadable.
It has a tiny LC screen that has to be looked at squarely to stand a chance,
and you have to juggle about with little pushbuttons to access it even. I
can't read it without my glasses on, so at 86 y o she stands no chance. I
know that in theory, there should not be any need for me or her to read the
meter, as there can't be any errors or estimated readings when a computer is
doing the remote reading, but I think we've probably all been there, and I
would like to just verify what that computer thinks it is charging me ...

Arfa


That is what I have been doing. Taking readings every day and even

before and after some things like washer and dryer to see how much they
take. That's when I found the meter still turning after shutting off
everything and killing the main breaker.

--
Claude Hopper

? ? Ľ

 

[Franc Zabkar]

On Fri, 24 Oct 2008 08:33:20 -0600, goodguyy@webtv.net (Ken G.) put
finger to keyboard and composed:

Thanks Franc .. I dont know which conection is B+ on this . It seems to
be a Wells Gardner monitor according to a website provided i an arcade
newsgroup .

I would think that one end of the primary winding would be connected
to the collector of the switching transistor, the other to the B+.

If the FBT has any part numbers, try locating a substitute here:

http://www.hrdiemen.es/products/index.php?command=viewSection&id=4&language=eng-GB

The HR substitute will have a wiring diagram with voltages.

I notice that the Wells Gardner Quadrascan colour monitor at the Atari
link provided by Dean uses a HV regulator circuit that senses a 180V
pulse from a tap on the primary winding and uses this feedback to vary
the B+ to the FBT, and thereby control the EHT.

- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 'i' from my address when replying by email.

 

[Jim Yanik]

"Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote in
news:H3nMk.75518$AO4.66911@newsfe16.ams2:

Question for WW as an ex-meter reader. Are you aware of
electro-mechanical meters having a certified lifetime, and whether
they do actually go out of calibration? And if they do, whether it's
typically to the loss of the supply company, or the consumer ? The
reason I ask, is that the utility company keep sending me letters
(addressed to "The Occupier" so good excuse to ignore them)
requesting that I contact them to arrange a time to come and replace
my meter for one of the new electronic ones. I get the feeling that
the 'certified lifetime' tack, is just a smokescreen to get you to
have a remotely readable electronic meter put in for their
convenience, but I would be interested in hearing if anybody has any
sure knowledge of what the real reasons are.

Arfa
Arfa.... I changed out lots of meters as a routine change on years in
service. Many 20 years. Never found a "defective" one. Some tested
out 1 or 2 % slow. But in a lightning area replaced many the did not
run at all due to a open potential coil. Also found some that people
tampered with to lower reading. Computer readings found this.
Customer was billed what was owed or power would be terminated.
Because of vandals breaking glass we started using plastic covers.
Found one all electric house that showed very little usage. Meter
checked OK. Was running normal in day time. Checked after dark,
lights and maybe heat on and meter did not move. Customer had drilled
a very small hole in plastic cover and had a broom straw inserted to
stall meter disk. The computer always won. WW



OK. Well that kind of goes along with what I suspected, in that there
is no 'valid' reason from a lifetime / calibration angle for replacing
the meter, and that this is just an 'angle' to get the utility company
into your house to fit a remotely readable meter for their
convenience.

I expect when they were looking for an angle, some bright spark with a
degree in media archeology or some such modern nonsense, discovered
the original meter manufacturer's spec sheet filed away somewhere, and
it said something like "Calibration Accuracy : 25 years Guaranteed",
and that was it, they had their 'in'. When you get the form letter,
which they send about every 4 weeks, it is written in terms that are
just sufficiently 'official' and alarmist to make it look to the
average Joe, who's not reading between the lines, that the company
have some kind of (almost) legal requirement to come into your house
to do this work, and that you need to let them. I hate the way that we
are bombarded all the time now with this pseudo-officialdom.

Thing is, I *like* my analogue meter. It's easy to read, which I do
daily to keep my own eye on what's being used. My mother submitted to
demands to change her meter, and the electronic thing that she has
now, is unreadable. It has a tiny LC screen that has to be looked at
squarely to stand a chance, and you have to juggle about with little
pushbuttons to access it even. I can't read it without my glasses on,
so at 86 y o she stands no chance. I know that in theory, there should
not be any need for me or her to read the meter, as there can't be any
errors or estimated readings when a computer is doing the remote
reading, but I think we've probably all been there, and I would like
to just verify what that computer thinks it is charging me ...

Arfa

my recently new remotely readable meter can also be read by me,as it has a
nice large LCD readout;3/4" high display numbers.
Readings will be more accurate,as the old style was vulnerable to
misreading,and it will help the power company keep costs down.
(Progress Energy Florida.)


--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

 

[NoSPAM]

"William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:rZSdnd6T0KeJQWrVnZ2dnUVZ_gOdnZ2d@comcast.com...

In theory, if the cap has a voltage rating much higher than the actual
circuit voltage (say, a 100V cap in a 50V DC circuit), the capacitor is
more
likely to deform.

That's the theory. I've never seen any systematic study of it. Anyone know
"fer shure"?

Yes, the 100 volt electrolytic will eventually become a 50 volt electrolytic
(or whatever voltage is actually impressed on it). The aluminum oxide film
that is the actual dielectric of the capacitor will hydrolyze eventually
dissolving the oxide back into the electrolyte. This is why relatively new
electrolytic capacitors sometimes need to be reformed. In most cases, this
is seen as an elevated leakage current in the first few hours of operation.
In the old days when vacuum tube rectifiers were in vogue, power supply
electrolytics would be subjected to a higher voltage than their normal
operating voltage until all the tubes were "warmed up". This is why high
voltage electrolytics often had a surge voltage rating high enough to
prevent breakdown during those few seconds that the supply was not providing
current.

I wrote a number of posts about 9 to 10 years ago on electrolytic capacitors
and their chemistry. Most of these can be found archived at
http://yarchive.net/electr/electrolytic_caps.html.

Dr. Barry L. Ornitz WA4VZQ

 

[NoSPAM]

"NoSPAM" <unknown@nospam.org> wrote in message news:...> "William
Sommerwerck"

grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:rZSdnd6T0KeJQWrVnZ2dnUVZ_gOdnZ2d@comcast.com...
In theory, if the cap has a voltage rating much higher than the actual
circuit voltage (say, a 100V cap in a 50V DC circuit), the capacitor is
more
likely to deform.

That's the theory. I've never seen any systematic study of it. Anyone
know
"fer shure"?


Yes, the 100 volt electrolytic will eventually become a 50 volt

electrolytic
(or whatever voltage is actually impressed on it). The aluminum oxide film
that is the actual dielectric of the capacitor will hydrolyze eventually
dissolving the oxide back into the electrolyte. This is why relatively new
electrolytic capacitors sometimes need to be reformed. In most cases, this
is seen as an elevated leakage current in the first few hours of operation.

In the old days when vacuum tube rectifiers were in vogue, power supply
electrolytics would be subjected to a higher voltage than their normal
operating voltage until all the tubes were "warmed up". This is why high
voltage electrolytics often had a surge voltage rating high enough to
prevent breakdown during those few seconds that the supply was not
providing
current.

I wrote a number of posts about 9 to 10 years ago on electrolytic
capacitors
and their chemistry. Most of these can be found archived at
http://yarchive.net/electr/electrolytic_caps.html.

Dr. Barry L. Ornitz WA4VZQ

 

[Mark D. Zacharias]

<Preamp@web.de> wrote in message
news:c77fcb64-ca5b-453c-bc17-f1a8453e7ed3@u75g2000hsf.googlegroups.com...

If the spindle motor's platter height is off, focus will fail.

The new spindle motor came mounted on the supporting chassis with a
new
pulley already assembled. I think that the height is correct. Since
the player
behaves like before, the old motor should be still ok an not the cause
for the
problem.
How can I check the focus? AFAIK that's what the FE-Pin is for, but
there is
nothing to worry about. I've seen that signal clipping in other
players but that
is not the case here.

Could have a clamping problem

What is that?

I've seen some Onkyo models have a cracked wormscrew gear
which caused erratic playing and startup problems.

There is no wormscrew in this one...


Lasse

I think you are going to need a service manual for this one.

The clamper is that portion of the mechanism which maintains the physical
contact of the disc to the spindle motor platter.

The FE is the Focus Error test point. Irrelevant until the unit is playing.

You originally said the unit just needed a new lens. Did you actually have
any playing problems? The KSS-150 and 210 are interchangeable, but an old
one you had laying around could have problems of it's own.

Might be a good idea to put everything back to original configuration and
start over.


Mark Z.

 

[Peter Hucker]

On Sat, 18 Oct 2008 21:35:02 +0100, Michael A. Terrell <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:

gink wrote:

Does anyone have a schematic, an old parts unit, or just a verbal
description of what and whee the electrolytics are in an Oregon D6
Variable voltage dual power supply? Someone pulled the caps and left
no record of what they were. Willing to pay for schematic or parts
unit.

thanks gink@austin.rr.com


Ask on news:sci.electronics.repair

He did.

--
http://www.petersparrots.com http://www.insanevideoclips.com http://www.petersphotos.com

__NNNNL_.
JNNNNNNNNNNN.
NNNNNNNNNNNNNN)
JNNNNNNNNNNNNNNN.
NNNNNNNNNNNNNNNN)
NNNNNNNNNNNNNNNN)
NNNN""NNNNF"4NNN)
(NN NN) (NN
4N. .NNL JN`
NNNNNN(NNNNN)
NNNNN (NNNN)
"NNNNNNF`
N.NNNN`N`
(NL___NN
_. `NNNNF
(NNN. `NN` JNN
(NNNNL .NNNN
.NNNNNNNNL. .JNNNNNNL
`NN" `"NNNNNL.JNNNN"` 4NN
`4NNNNN"
.JNNNNNNN.
.NNNN" `NNNNL
_NNNNNNN" `NNNNNNL.
(NNNNNNF `NNNNNN
4NNNNN (NNF"
`" ``

 

[Michael A. Terrell]

Peter Hucker wrote:

On Sat, 18 Oct 2008 21:35:02 +0100, Michael A. Terrell <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:


gink wrote:

Does anyone have a schematic, an old parts unit, or just a verbal
description of what and whee the electrolytics are in an Oregon D6
Variable voltage dual power supply? Someone pulled the caps and left
no record of what they were. Willing to pay for schematic or parts
unit.

thanks gink@austin.rr.com


Ask on news:sci.electronics.repair

He did.

Not in this thread.


--
http://improve-usenet.org/index.html

aioe.org, Goggle Groups, and Web TV users must request to be white
listed, or I will not see your messages.

If you have broadband, your ISP may have a NNTP news server included in
your account: http://www.usenettools.net/ISP.htm


There are two kinds of people on this earth:
The crazy, and the insane.
The first sign of insanity is denying that you're crazy.

 

[R!]

"Mike S" <nospam> wrote in news:48fe2d3b$0$5653$607ed4bc@cv.net:

I'm not sure if this applies to your model, but on many VCRs if you
press channel down from channel 2 it will be your line in.

I have come to the conclusion it is not possible with this unit.

Thanks !

R!

 

[Claude Hopper]

William Sommerwerck wrote:

"Claude Hopper" <boobooililililil@roadrunner.com> wrote in message

Microwaves do not 'bounce around' in the oven. Microwaves are
directional, that's why you move the food. The microwave emitter
does not move.

Perhaps we should dub you "Clod Hopper". (Perhaps your posts are jokes, and
you're waiting to see who's the first to "get it".)

Microwaves do, indeed, "bounce around" within the oven cavity. There is
usually a standing-wave pattern with hot and cold spots, which is the main
reason for the turntable.

Oh, how long do they bounce around tell me. If that were true with the
klystron continuing to transmit more waves and the old ones keep
bouncing around they would build up and explode the oven. That's does
not happen does it.

--
Claude Hopper

? ? Ľ

 

[Baron]

Claude Hopper wrote:

William Sommerwerck wrote:
"Claude Hopper" <boobooililililil@roadrunner.com> wrote in message

Microwaves do not 'bounce around' in the oven. Microwaves are
directional, that's why you move the food. The microwave emitter
does not move.

Perhaps we should dub you "Clod Hopper". (Perhaps your posts are
jokes, and you're waiting to see who's the first to "get it".)

Microwaves do, indeed, "bounce around" within the oven cavity. There
is usually a standing-wave pattern with hot and cold spots, which is
the main reason for the turntable.



Oh, how long do they bounce around tell me. If that were true with the
klystron continuing to transmit more waves and the old ones keep
bouncing around they would build up and explode the oven. That's does
not happen does it.

What do you think heats up the food ! Energy in equals energy out less
losses !

By the way it is a Magnetron in there providing the RF energy.

--
Best Regards:
Baron.

 

[William Sommerwerck]

Microwaves do, indeed, "bounce around" within the oven cavity. There
is usually a standing-wave pattern with hot and cold spots, which is the
main reason for the turntable.

Oh, how long do they bounce around tell me. If that were true with
the klystron [sic] continuing to transmit more waves and the old ones
keep bouncing around they would build up and explode the oven. That's
[sic] does not happen does it.

Oh, but it does.

If there's nothing in the cavity to absorb the microwaves, the magnetron
will overheat. The metal walls of the cavity absorb very little radiation,
reflecting most of it.

Now, tell us... What's your real name? (What parents would name their kid
"Claude Hopper"?)

There used to be an old-time-radio company run by a gentleman named Carl
Amari. (Say it out loud.) He was fully aware of the unintentional play on
words.

 

[Neil]

** Have a very careful look at R29 ( 0.33 ohms 7 watt ) and make sure the
soldering of the legs is OK.

This resistor is CRITICAL as it conducts speaker current to ground and
supplies a take off point for the POSITIVE feedback loop.

If the soldering is cracked,  the amp will oscillate at supersonic
frequency -  probably intermittently.

.....   Phil

Sorry its been a while since my last message!

I've just popped R29 out of circuit to test. Allowing for the error in
my DVM (doesn't go to Zero) the resisitor value is fine (as are the
other 0.33 ohm resistors).

All solder joints seem oaky and theres no sign of cracks or burning.

An earlier message suggested the MJF122 darlington so I popped this
out too and there are no short circuits. With the dvm set to diode
function on the ohm scale and the neg probe on the centre pin and pos
probe on left pin the reading is 0.73 & 0.64 with the pos probe on the
right pin.

 

[N_Cook]

Found out why so much dust on the bulb reflector - breakdown product of the
chop-strand fibre reinforcement (asbestos?) making up the high temperature
plastic surround to the lamp combined with nicotine as sticky agent.

To get some more hours out of the bulb, ie defeat the counted-out lifespan
of the bulb its a matter of pressing both volume switches on the switch
panel for 10 seconds , so full drive resumed to the colour wheel. lamp drive
and all else. Rewinding the 3 primary coils of the inverter transformer
worked, so now reliable startup now the control from the video board is
resumed.

Now a matter of sticking those fiddly 4 bits of light tunnel together.
Will bend back the part of the spring plate that holds the one of the
vertical bits of mirror in place and just rely on the top force to hold all
4 together, in its cradle, if/when the superglue fails due to the heat. That
way there will be no sideways pressure to push in the side piece and so stop
down the light tunnel.

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

 

[Peter Hucker]

On Sun, 26 Oct 2008 06:11:20 -0000, Michael A. Terrell <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:

Peter Hucker wrote:

On Sat, 18 Oct 2008 21:35:02 +0100, Michael A. Terrell <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:


gink wrote:

Does anyone have a schematic, an old parts unit, or just a verbal
description of what and whee the electrolytics are in an Oregon D6
Variable voltage dual power supply? Someone pulled the caps and left
no record of what they were. Willing to pay for schematic or parts
unit.

thanks gink@austin.rr.com


Ask on news:sci.electronics.repair

He did.


Not in this thread.

It's still in the newsgroups header!!!!


--
http://www.petersparrots.com http://www.insanevideoclips.com http://www.petersphotos.com

For decades, two heroic statues, one male and one female, faced each other in a city park, until one day an angel came down from heaven. You've been such exemplary statues," he announced to them, "That I'm going to give you a special gift. I'm going to bring you both to life for thirty minutes, in which you can do anything you want." And with a clap of his hands, the angel brought the statues to life. The two approached each other a bit shyly, but soon dashed for the bushes, from which shortly emerged a good deal of giggling, laughter, and shaking of branches.
Fifteen minutes later, the two statues emerged from the bushes, wide grins on their faces. "You still have fifteen more minutes," said the angel, winking at them.
Grinning even more widely the female statue turned to the male statue and said, "Great! Only this time you hold the pigeon down and I'll crap on it's head."

 

[Arfa Daily]

"Claude Hopper" <boobooililililil@roadrunner.com> wrote in message
newsqmdneJk9vIR8JnUnZ2dnUVZ_rLinZ2d@giganews.com...

William Sommerwerck wrote:
"Claude Hopper" <boobooililililil@roadrunner.com> wrote in message

Microwaves do not 'bounce around' in the oven. Microwaves are
directional, that's why you move the food. The microwave emitter
does not move.

Perhaps we should dub you "Clod Hopper". (Perhaps your posts are jokes,
and
you're waiting to see who's the first to "get it".)

Microwaves do, indeed, "bounce around" within the oven cavity. There is
usually a standing-wave pattern with hot and cold spots, which is the
main
reason for the turntable.



Oh, how long do they bounce around tell me. If that were true with the
klystron continuing to transmit more waves and the old ones keep
bouncing around they would build up and explode the oven. That's does
not happen does it.

--
Claude Hopper

? ? Ľ

Are you deliberately trying to mis-understand how these things work ? And
you need to accept that in fact it is *you* who is wrong insisting that
microwave ovens contain a klystron for generating the RF energy. It is a
magnetron, as everyone keeps telling you. There is no question about this.
It simply is, and you are wrong.

As far as the waves bouncing around the inside of the oven cavity goes, they
do, whether you like it or not. I gave you four web references that all tell
you this. Did you actually bother to read any of them ? If microwaves did
not bounce off metal surfaces in a substantially loss-free way, then how do
you imagine that waveguides, some of which can be several feet long, could
possibly work ?

If you knew anything at all about microwave ovens, which clearly you don't,
you would be aware that your contention that microwave ovens are not damaged
by the waves bouncing about in the cooking cavity, is unmitigated nonsense.
They indeed *are* damaged, if there is no microwave-absorbing material such
as food, placed within the cavity in such a way as to intercept the bouncing
waves, and turn their RF energy into heat. That is why when a microwave oven
is being tested, its RF generator must be loaded, the same as with any high
power transmitter. This is done by placing a vessel of water in the cooking
cavity.

Until you understand a little more about the principles of typical consumer
microwave ovens, you would probably be best to make no further comments in
the thread, as you are not currently giving yourself a lot of credibility
....

Arfa