Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

Until you understand a little more about the principles of typical
consumer microwave ovens, you would probably be best to make
no further comments in the thread, as you are not currently giving
yourself a lot of credibility.
Let's assume the guy's handle is a deliberate joke, and his posts clever
trolling.
 
Peter Hucker wrote:
Nothing of note.

Folks, we got ourselves a troll. We can either feed it or starve it.
If you feed it, it will stick around for a while and get bigger. If you
starve it, it will die...or at least search out a more reliable food source.

Your choice. I'll be gone for a week or two. If it's still around when
I get back, it will prove either; a) I'm wrong; b) it's a particularly
persistent little bugger; or c) somebody's been giving it what it needs....

See you in a couple of weeks (unless I have free access in the couple of
hotels I'm going to AND I have time to post).

jak
 
On Sun, 26 Oct 2008 17:46:29 -0000, jakdedert <jakdedert@bellsouth.net> wrote:

Peter Hucker wrote:
Nothing of note.

Folks, we got ourselves a troll. We can either feed it or starve it.
If you feed it, it will stick around for a while and get bigger. If you
starve it, it will die...or at least search out a more reliable food source.

Your choice. I'll be gone for a week or two. If it's still around when
I get back, it will prove either; a) I'm wrong; b) it's a particularly
persistent little bugger; or c) somebody's been giving it what it needs....

See you in a couple of weeks (unless I have free access in the couple of
hotels I'm going to AND I have time to post).
Idiot. I simply pointed out that someone (Michael) had asked the OP to ask in a group which the thread was already in. Correcting a mistake is not trolling.

--
http://www.petersparrots.com http://www.insanevideoclips.com http://www.petersphotos.com

A very religious man lived right next door to an atheist. While the religious one prayed day in, day out, and was constantly on his knees in communion with his Lord, the atheist never even looked twice at a church.
However, the atheist's life was good, he had a well-paying job and a beautiful wife, and his children were healthy and good-natured, whereas the pious man's job was strenuous and his wages were low, his wife was getting fatter every day and his kids wouldn't give him the time of the day.
So one day, deep in prayer as usual, he raised his eyes towards heaven and asked: "Oh god, I honor you every day, I ask your advice for every problem and confess to you my every sin. Yet my neighbour, who doesn't even believe in you and certainly never prays, seems blessed with every happiness, while I go poor and suffer many an indignity. Why is this?"
And a great voice was heard from above: "BECAUSE HE DOESN'T BOTHER ME ALL THE TIME!"
 
"Neil" <group_stuff_etc@hotmail.com> wrote
....

An earlier message suggested the MJF122 darlington so I popped this
out too and there are no short circuits. With the dvm set to diode
function on the ohm scale and the neg probe on the centre pin and pos
probe on left pin the reading is 0.73 & 0.64 with the pos probe on the
right pin.

Measure the bias currents into the 'base' leads... somehow,
somewhere, there's too much, usually a leaky, perforated
driver.
__
Steve
..
 
On Oct 10, 7:52 am, s...@seas.upenn.edu (Samuel M. Goldwasser) wrote:
OK, so I'm one of the 6 people in the Universe who don't have cable,
satellite, or fiber-optic TV.

With analog reception, the picture remains viewable even with a weak
signal, with increasing snow, but nonetheless, usable. The sound
would survive even lower signal levels.

A set of rabbit ears and loop antenna sufficed.

Now, as expected, with DTV, it's either there or it isn't, and even with
the built-in signal strength display on DTVs and converter boxes, it has
become a royal pain to tune in many channels.

The assumption today is that one will use a wired connection so DTVs
usually don't even come with any sort of indoor antenna.

Now, this could probably start a lively discussion on the politics and
economics of the DTV conversion and that's just fine. :)

But, what I would like input on is what sort of indoor antennas might be
best to use in what is basically an area which should have decent signal
strength for the channels I care about.

So far I've tried using old loop antennas and basic indoor antennas (loop+
rabbit ears) from Radio Shack, both unamplified and amplified (though I'm
not convinced the latter was even working properly).

This is a residential location with no high structures nearby. I believe
most of the transmitters are only a few miles away.

For a 10 year old TV with a converter box in one location, a simple loop
antenna seems to be fine. For a similar setup on the floor below,
reception is terrible on nearly all channels no matter how the
antenna is oriented.

For a new HDTV at the other end of the house, nothing I've tried seems to work
very well, with some channels requiring very careful fiddling with the
antenna orientation to be acceptable most of the time.
Reception on analog channels is fine and I believe the TV is working correctly.

According tohttp://www.antennaweb.org/, for most of the channels I
care about, a "small multidirectional antenna" should suffice.
I haven't yet tried an antenna like and would hoping for recommendataions,
or whether it would even work.

I realize this is insufficient information for anyone to suggest a
specific remedy other than "get a wired connection", but figured it
might be worthwhile to hear about others' experiences so far.

Thanks!

--
sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ:http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents:http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ:http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites:http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included in the
subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.
I am so surprised that no one has mentioned the (to a bunch of people,
anyway) best site for antennae information:

http://www.tvfool.com/

Both analog and digital information is available along with a .png
file for either, or after the February 2009 cutover. The Kw ratings
and db figures are there, along with the actual and virtual channel
numbers.

Someone did a very good job

tom walsh
 
Ken G. wrote:
I have an old asteroids full size vintage video game .
I has a black & white monitor .

When it first comes on its fine . Within 10 minutes the whole image gets
bigger , things disappear off the edges . The center of the screen gets
a bit darker .
I suspected the hi voltage diode off the flyback and adjusting the hi
voltage pot but replacing that did not help .

I dont have any model #s the monitor has one medum circuit board and
one small board with the flyback in a metal box .

Thanks

Sounds to me, more like the Filament Voltage is dropping, cold solder
joint in filament circuit ?

This describes what happens to the image when I reduce the filament
Voltage on my Transmission Electron Microscope !

Yukio YANO
 
Yukio YANO wrote:
<snip>
This describes what happens to the image when I reduce the filament
Voltage on my Transmission Electron Microscope !
Your _own_ TEM? Really! Do you have photos of it on a site somewhere?

Michael
 
Peter Hucker wrote:
On Sun, 26 Oct 2008 17:46:29 -0000, jakdedert <jakdedert@bellsouth.net> wrote:

Peter Hucker wrote:
Nothing of note.

Folks, we got ourselves a troll. We can either feed it or starve it.
If you feed it, it will stick around for a while and get bigger. If you
starve it, it will die...or at least search out a more reliable food source.

Your choice. I'll be gone for a week or two. If it's still around when
I get back, it will prove either; a) I'm wrong; b) it's a particularly
persistent little bugger; or c) somebody's been giving it what it needs....

See you in a couple of weeks (unless I have free access in the couple of
hotels I'm going to AND I have time to post).

Idiot. I simply pointed out that someone (Michael) had asked the OP to ask in a group which the thread was already in. Correcting a mistake is not trolling.

There was no mistake, and you are a troll. I added the
sci.electronics.repair group to the tread.


--
http://improve-usenet.org/index.html

aioe.org, Goggle Groups, and Web TV users must request to be white
listed, or I will not see your messages.

If you have broadband, your ISP may have a NNTP news server included in
your account: http://www.usenettools.net/ISP.htm


There are two kinds of people on this earth:
The crazy, and the insane.
The first sign of insanity is denying that you're crazy.
 
I think you are going to need a service manual for this one.
I found one to download. Besides adjustment of focus and tracking
there's not much to read :(. W/out having the described test disc I
tried to do the measurements as far as possible. The results are quite
much the same.

The clamper is that portion of the mechanism which maintains the physical
contact of the disc to the spindle motor platter.
That's what it does. It's running free, isn't vibrating and doesn't
slip over. Seems ok to me.


You originally said the unit just needed a new lens.
Yes. Actually that's what I did: I carefully popped out the old, blind
one and replaced it with a clear one from an old pickup which had a
weak laser. I glued it in place and checked if everything else is
still ok. The lens is still moveable, I didn't break any of the
plastic supportings. The coils are also working, checked that with a
little AC.
I watched the eye pattern before and after lens change. The only
difference I noticed was a HF-voltage gain of about 40%.

Did you actually have any playing problems?
Nope. I got this player with the problem it is currently having.

The KSS-150 and 210 are interchangeable, but an old
one you had laying around could have problems of it's own.
It might be old, but the player where I got it from is still ok! As I
said, that player also works fine with my new-lens onkyo pickup, but
the onkyo still shows the same error.

Might be a good idea to put everything back to original configuration and
start over.
I don't have the old lens and spindle motor anymore. Besides that
everything's still original.


Lasse
 
Hi,

I bought the service manual and found out that AN7225N is not the
vertical IC.

If I repair this TV (in my spare time), I will let everyone know what
part(s) caused this problem.

Brad

On Thu, 23 Oct 2008 11:42:33 GMT, Brad wrote:

Hi,

I have a Philips TV model 20PT6245/37 (mfg 05/05) in my
service shop with a loss of vertical deflection. I do not have SM.

For a moment after the TV is turned on, there is some vertical deflection,
but it collapsed into a single horizontal line in the middle.

I checked solder joints at the vertical IC, resoldered them anyway, but
this had no effect. Note: I soldered other joints too. Flexing and tapping
on mother board has no effect.

I couldn't find pin out info on the vertical IC AN7225N on the
web so I could make additional tests.

Thanks in advance, Brad

Before you type your password, credit card number, etc.,
be sure there is no active keystroke logger (spyware) in your PC.
 
I think you are going to need a service manual for this one.
I found one to download. Besides adjustment of focus and tracking
there's not much to read :(. I tried to do the described measurements
as far as that was possible w/out that test disc and the results were
quite much the same. Maybe that's misleading?

The clamper is that portion of the mechanism which maintains the physical
contact of the disc to the spindle motor platter.
That's what it does. It's running free, isn't vibrating and doesn't
slip over. Seems ok to me.


You originally said the unit just needed a new lens.
Yes. Actually that's what I did: I carefully popped out the old, blind
one and replaced it with a clear one from an old pickup which had a
weak laser. I glued it in place and checked if everything else is
still ok. The lens is still moveable, I didn't break any of the
plastic supportings. The coils are also working, checked that with a
little AC.
I watched the eye pattern before and after lens change. The only
difference I noticed was a HF-voltage gain of about 40%.

Did you actually have any playing problems?
Nope. I got this player with the problem it is currently having.

The KSS-150 and 210 are interchangeable, but an old
one you had laying around could have problems of it's own.
It might be old, but the player where I got it from is still ok! As I
said, that player also works fine with my new-lens onkyo pickup, but
the onkyo still shows the same error.

Might be a good idea to put everything back to original configuration and
start over.
I don't have the old lens and spindle motor anymore. Besides that
everything's still original.


Lasse
 
"Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:de6dnd2KgpfF7JjUnZ2dnUVZ_jKdnZ2d@earthlink.com...
Peter Hucker wrote:

On Sun, 26 Oct 2008 17:46:29 -0000, jakdedert <jakdedert@bellsouth.net
wrote:

Peter Hucker wrote:
Nothing of note.

Folks, we got ourselves a troll. We can either feed it or starve it.
If you feed it, it will stick around for a while and get bigger. If
you
starve it, it will die...or at least search out a more reliable food
source.

Your choice. I'll be gone for a week or two. If it's still around
when
I get back, it will prove either; a) I'm wrong; b) it's a particularly
persistent little bugger; or c) somebody's been giving it what it
needs....

See you in a couple of weeks (unless I have free access in the couple
of
hotels I'm going to AND I have time to post).

Idiot. I simply pointed out that someone (Michael) had asked the OP to
ask in a group which the thread was already in. Correcting a mistake is
not trolling.


There was no mistake, and you are a troll. I added the
sci.electronics.repair group to the tread.
PHucker usually hangs about on alt.binaries.chatter, he's often in the habit
of mis-reading peoples posts and then getting into an argument accusing them
of saying something they didn't - he plonked me for pointing out one such
case.

If you read his posts regularly it soon emerges that he is fond of bragging
that he goes about his life without regard for rules or laws, but woe betide
anyone he catches doing the same!

Just of late he's become quite the little net kop.
 
On Mon, 27 Oct 2008 07:44:24 -0000, Michael A. Terrell <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:

Peter Hucker wrote:

On Sun, 26 Oct 2008 17:46:29 -0000, jakdedert <jakdedert@bellsouth.net> wrote:

Peter Hucker wrote:
Nothing of note.

Folks, we got ourselves a troll. We can either feed it or starve it.
If you feed it, it will stick around for a while and get bigger. If you
starve it, it will die...or at least search out a more reliable food source.

Your choice. I'll be gone for a week or two. If it's still around when
I get back, it will prove either; a) I'm wrong; b) it's a particularly
persistent little bugger; or c) somebody's been giving it what it needs....

See you in a couple of weeks (unless I have free access in the couple of
hotels I'm going to AND I have time to post).

Idiot. I simply pointed out that someone (Michael) had asked the OP to ask in a group which the thread was already in. Correcting a mistake is not trolling.


There was no mistake, and you are a troll. I added the
sci.electronics.repair group to the tread.
That was not obvious from your post.

--
http://www.petersparrots.com http://www.insanevideoclips.com http://www.petersphotos.com

Three women are in a gym locker room dressing up to play racquetball, when suddenly a guy runs through the room wearing nothing but a bag over his head and passes the three women.
He passes the first woman, who looks down at his penis. "He's not my husband," she says.
He passes by the second woman, who also looks down at his penis. "He's not my husband either." She says, also not recognizing the unit.
He passes by the third woman, who also looks down as he runs by her. "Wait a minute," she says. "He's not even a member of this club!"
 
On Tue, 21 Oct 2008 17:52:11 -0700, "William Sommerwerck"
<grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> put finger to keyboard and composed:

It's so your food will cook more evenly. Many directions are to
microwave for a few minutes, open and stir contents, then
continue a few more minutes. It's more thorough to run the food
past the microwaves in both directions.

No, it's not. It shouldn't make any difference, as the food is subjected to
the same "pattern" regardless of which way the table turns.
Likewise, it makes no difference whether you roast meat on a spit CW
one time, CCW the next. Neither does it matter in which direction you
stir your coffee, or how you turn your sausages on a barbecue grill,
or whether you flip your pancakes from left to right or right to left.

My guess is that it's to even out the wear.
Agreed, the wear in the gearbox would be evened out, but the bearings
wouldn't know the difference.

BTW I'm right handed, but I sometimes use my left hand to even out the
wear. :)

- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 'i' from my address when replying by email.
 
Appologies for the delay getting back to the thread - I thought I
posted at the weekend but it doesnt appear to have uploaded.

Anyway, I removed transistor MJF122 as someone suggests it might be
faulty. With a DVM set to diode function on the ohm scale and the +ve
probe on pin 2 there's no reading on pins 1 & 3. With the -ve probe on
pin 2 pin 1 reads 0.74 & pin 3 reads 0.66. With the -ve probe on pin 1
and the +ve probe on pin 3 there is no reading, and reversed the
reading is 1.03

I popped out the 0.33 ohm resitor and the value is fine, as are the
rest of them and the solder joints too

I have an oscilloscope - can anybody advise where and what signals I
should be looking for please?

Thanks in anticipation.
 
On Oct 26, 4:37 am, "R!" <hobbob...@mailinator.com> wrote:
"Mike S" <nospam> wrote innews:48fe2d3b$0$5653$607ed4bc@cv.net:



I'm not sure if this applies to your model, but on many VCRs if you
press channel down from channel 2 it will be your line in.

I have come to the conclusion it is not possible with this unit.

Thanks !

R!
Couldn't find a user manual for the specific model you mentioned, but
a similar-looking model number (PV-V4022) manual indicates that it is
possible to timer record off the line inputs. When you get to the
programming step to specify the channel, just keep pressing the arrow
key through all the channels until you see L1 or L2 - see if that
works for you.

Jerry
 
Warren Block <wblock@wonkity.com> wrote:
And here's the controller board. Capacitors with a black mark are ones
that have been replaced:

http://www.wonkity.com/~wblock/kds/kds-controller.jpg
Working from largest downwards, I replaced all of the electrolytic
capacitors on the controller and the inverter board. Testing of the
removed capacitors showed that many had deteriorated to half or even a
tenth of their marked value. Yet nothing improved until the last five
on the controller. These were three 10 uF, 25V and two 22 uF, 16V near
the toroid inductor. One of the 22 uF was definitely bad.

And that cleared up the distortion. The monitor seems to be fine now.

--
Warren Block * Rapid City, South Dakota * USA
 
<Preamp@web.de> wrote in message
news:dceb8969-bfb5-466c-9483-da4e74e8aa6f@u28g2000hsc.googlegroups.com...
I think you are going to need a service manual for this one.

I found one to download. Besides adjustment of focus and tracking
there's not much to read :(. I tried to do the described measurements
as far as that was possible w/out that test disc and the results were
quite much the same. Maybe that's misleading?

The clamper is that portion of the mechanism which maintains the physical
contact of the disc to the spindle motor platter.

That's what it does. It's running free, isn't vibrating and doesn't
slip over. Seems ok to me.


You originally said the unit just needed a new lens.

Yes. Actually that's what I did: I carefully popped out the old, blind
one and replaced it with a clear one from an old pickup which had a
weak laser. I glued it in place and checked if everything else is
still ok. The lens is still moveable, I didn't break any of the
plastic supportings. The coils are also working, checked that with a
little AC.
I watched the eye pattern before and after lens change. The only
difference I noticed was a HF-voltage gain of about 40%.

Did you actually have any playing problems?

Nope. I got this player with the problem it is currently having.

The KSS-150 and 210 are interchangeable, but an old
one you had laying around could have problems of it's own.

It might be old, but the player where I got it from is still ok! As I
said, that player also works fine with my new-lens onkyo pickup, but
the onkyo still shows the same error.

Might be a good idea to put everything back to original configuration and
start over.

I don't have the old lens and spindle motor anymore. Besides that
everything's still original.


Lasse


Did you actually have any playing problems?

Nope. I got this player with the problem it is currently having.

I think we're not communicating well. I did go back to your first post, so
my question is answered, however.

I have seen on some older Onkyo's that the laser will focus but if the
inside (limit) switch has not been actuated, will just sit there and spin.
The one I'm thinking of did not die after 3-4 seconds, but might be worth
keeping in mind. Also, if somehow the disc rotation is backwards, like if
the polarity of the disc motor is wrong, you will see no difference in the
eye pattern, but the decoder IC will not be able to lock on. Speaking of the
decoder IC, it could be suspect at this point, especially if it's a CXD2500
type - there were lots of problems with those.


Mark Z.
 
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