Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[bz]

NoSp <none@none.none> wrote in news:4846cbd6$1@news.broadpark.no:

I'm the original poster and have a problem after having replaced the old
CCFL with a new one :-(
The display lights up like it should, but displays vertical lines (from
the top of the display down towards the keyboard.

It is likely that some of the connections along the top [or bottom] of the
LCD have been disrupted.

Likely you need a complete new screen.

I can't remember if it came in different colors or just brighter white
than the backlit background.
.....
I've also checked to see if the data cables (from the computer to the
display are attached properly -they both are: a wide ribbon cable and a
small white Molex or whatever connector (perhaps that one is for the
CCFL inverter, I don't know).
I don't know if this makes a difference or not, but I haven't attached
the aluminum tape as I first wanted to check if everything looks OK
(dust etc.) before re-assembling it properly. Would interference
(because of the lacking shielding) cause these problems?

Possible but not likely. You will know when you put on the tape.
Let us know if that fixes it.

The computer is a Apple Mac Powerbook G4.
Any ideas anyone?

Look for a junker with a good screen.




--
bz 73 de N5BZ k

please pardon my infinite ignorance, the set-of-things-I-do-not-know is an
infinite set.

bz+ser@ch100-5.chem.lsu.edu remove ch100-5 to avoid spam trap

 

[Bob Shuman]

Have you tried a replacement battery pack and if so does it behave the same
way? Many times the charging circuit/charger is fine, but the battery pack
itself pops a thermal fuse so will no longer charge.

Bob

"webpa" <webpa@aol.com> wrote in message
news:ae99156e-9d42-4907-b8b7-e9fd7196a417@d45g2000hsc.googlegroups.com...

On Jun 1, 9:03 pm, gruv2...@gmail.com wrote:
Hello All,
My laptop no longer charges the battery. I need a motherboard
schematic or at least somebody that knows what 'normally' dies in that
circuit. There is a current sense resistor in the charge path, and
some FETs that i cannot find a datasheet for. There must be some
comparators somewhere in there controlling the FETs. Dose anybody know
about this circuit,or have a schematic??

Thanks!!!
-Stephen

Most likely failure: Broken solder joints on the DC input connector.
Fix: disassemble enough to reach the solder side, re-solder. It is
much easier to find instruction on disassembly than a schematic. If
you REALLY need a schematic, then the machine is not repairable.

 

[Michael Kennedy]

"jakdedert" <jakdedert@bellsouth.net> wrote in message
news:JSH1k.10945$vP5.137@bignews6.bellsouth.net...

David Dawes wrote:
I've started looking into a problem with a Viewsonic PF790 monitor
that I've had sitting in the closet for the last year or so. The
problem is that about 1 second after turning the switch on, it stops.
The green led on the front panel remains on, but the degauss relay
abruptly turns off, as does the high voltage. Every once in a while
it will turn on without a problem, and work perfectly for hours at a
time. There was a time when it would reliably turn on if there was no
video signal connected, or if a low resolution signal was connected,
but that is no longer the case.

I have read the group's FAQ, and I have access to schematics. My
first thought after reading the faq was to check the x-ray protection
circuit. According the service manual, it is activated when the
voltage at the relevant pin on the controller IC exceeds 8V. With a
DMM it was difficult to get an accurate measurement within the second
of activity, but it was almost certainly below 8V.
I tried halving the voltage divider ratio to see if that would make a
difference, but it didn't. I presume that something else is shutting
things down.

If anyone has any suggestions as to where I might look next, I'd very
much appreciate it.

Dave

PS caps....

jak

I agree. Mine needs some new PS caps. It has been sitting waiting to be
repaired when I have time.

Mike

 

[William Sommerwerck]

Which it needs to be to counter the effect of the output inductor
or you'll wreck the phase stability of the amplifier.

It's the other way around, I believe. The inductor is there for a good
reason.

 

[William Sommerwerck]

William Sommerwerck wrote:

An amp with such a network at its output might
very well be unusually load-sensitive.

Every amp has one prior tot he output inductor.

I will ask JC about this.

 

[Trevor Wilson]

"davidlaska" <Davidlaska@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:2bd0e1df-f6de-4f6a-aadf-9cae8e20dadd@b9g2000prh.googlegroups.com...

I have had it for decades but I do not want to give it up because it
works fine withstand the popping and hissing it does in all modes
except off. Is it over for it?

**The lack of actual information you've provided is simply breath-taking. At
a very minimum, here's what you need to supply:

Model Number
If the fault is input dependent.
If the fault is volume control level dependent.
If the fault is tone control dependent.
Does it occur after a period of time, or immediately?
Etc.


--
Trevor Wilson
www.rageaudio.com.au

 

[JANA]

The 700 W rating is the maximum load that can be used from the UPS
without any damage to it, or it with it being over-loaded. Normaly, the
maximum load should not exceed about 60% of the maximum capacity of a
UPS.

In the instruction manual for the UPS, they usually give a chart of how
long it will supply power with different loads. The effect of the load
may not be exactly linear because the load is being run from an
inverter. This inverter itself uses a certain amount of base current to
operate. It's efficiency may not be very linear.

In theory, a 120 Amp Hour battery should be able to put out 120 Amps for
one hour. Normaly, when a battery is under load, when the voltage of
the battery has decreased to about 10% below the nominal rating of the
battery voltage, the battery is considered weak.

When evaluating a battery, make sure that you know if the Amp rating of
the battery is the maximum output load, or it is the maximum Amp Hours.
There will be a difference in its performance.

A standard 12.5 Volt battery would be considered discharged when its
output has decreased to 11.36 Volts. This is when the battery is under
its nominal rated load. For most gel and lead acid batteries, the
maximum normal load is considered to be 1/4 of the Amperage rating of
the battery. This would be the load rating best for testing the battery,
and for having the most efficient use from it.

If you have a battery rated at 120 Ampere hours, in theory it should be
able to put out 120 Amps for 1 hour. In reality, if you did this, the
battery would be under severe stress. A 120 Ampere hour battery should
be able to operate a 10 Ampere load for a period of 12 hours.

In a UPS, there are a number of electronic circuits that have to be
operated by the battery. There is also the inverter output driver
itself. These all consume some of the battery power. It may be as much
as 10% of the available power when it is on the battery.

A very simple example of evaluating a UPS would be to look in the
instruction manual. If it indicates that the UPS can run for 15 minutes
at the full load, then it should be able to run for at least 30 minutes
at 1/2 load.

In calculating your load, you are asking about 600 Watts from the UPS.
This is about 90% of its load capacity. Without the internal load of the
UPS's electronics, this works to 50 Amps at 12 Volts for the battery. If
I add 5 Amps for the electronics, I get 55 Amps. If the battery is rated
at 120 Ampere hours, you should be able to get at least 2 hours of
operation.

Personaly, I would not share the same power source for a computer with
other appliances, and especially if they are reactive devices such as
with a motor. The only thing I would have on the UPS is the computer,
the monitor, and the printer if the UPS can take the load. For lighting
and the extras, I would use a separate UPS.

For the emergency lights here in my office, I have a 1200 Watt UPS
running a few compact fluorescents with a total of less than 40 Watts.
With the battery power I have with it, this light will run for over 24
hours.


--

JANA
_____


"Procrastinator71" <kitwSPAMeb19@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:g27re3$o9t$1@registered.motzarella.org...
Hi,
I'm using a 700W UPS (localy made) with a 120 Ampere battery to
run
three ceiling fans (150W each), a tube (40W), and my laptop (70W?) and
two
energy savers (18W each) to cover load shedding time which is mostly for
one
hour several times a day. The problem is if all tree fans are running
for
some time, they begin to slow down considerably. Is the battery
responsible
for this or the UPS.
If I add another battery in parallel will this solve the problem. I
intend
to add another fan to this. Also is there a way to test what is the
actual
strength of the UPS? It is common here to sell UPS that are lower in
power
than what is printed on them.

Thanks

 

[Mark D. Zacharias]

"davidlaska" <Davidlaska@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:756b5f94-cb30-4149-a808-f39a2dee4782@x1g2000prh.googlegroups.com...
On Jun 4, 7:58 pm, "Trevor Wilson"
<trevor@_SPAMBLOCK_rageaudio.com.au> wrote:

"davidlaska" <Davidla...@gmail.com> wrote in message

news:2bd0e1df-f6de-4f6a-aadf-9cae8e20dadd@b9g2000prh.googlegroups.com...

I have had it for decades but I do not want to give it up because it
works fine withstand the popping and hissing it does in all modes
except off. Is it over for it?

**The lack of actual information you've provided is simply breath-taking.
At
a very minimum, here's what you need to supply:

Model Number
If the fault is input dependent.
If the fault is volume control level dependent.
If the fault is tone control dependent.
Does it occur after a period of time, or immediately?
Etc.

--
Trevor Wilsonwww.rageaudio.com.au

All answers are 'no' and it is in one channel. model number #4415

The 4415 sounds like one of their smaller quad units, some of which used
rather unusual driver IC's. I don't remember the part number, but I've got a
few in a parts drawer at work. Can't say if thhis goes in yours, or if this
is your problem.

Mark Z.

 

[William Sommerwerck]

Running batteries in parallel is a bad idea. Think of what will happen if
their voltages don't match. If you do such a thing, you need to put diodes
in series with each.

I would suggest getting another SPS.

 

[N_Cook]

Ron(UK) <ron@lunevalleyaudio.com> wrote in message
news:UsCdnTrXO82nZ9rVnZ2dnUVZ8j6dnZ2d@bt.com...

As the subject says, I have a Denon PMA 250 with an open circuit mains
transformer primary - no doubt the thermal protection has failed. Can
anyone tell me the secondary voltage?


RonUK


--
Lune Valley Audio
Public Address Systems
Hire Sales Maintenance
www.lunevalleyaudio.com

Assuming you have tried excavating into the wrapping to find a th f and not
found it.

Is the secondary wire/s carried out to the terminals ?
Then measure diameter of the wire/s , measure DC resistance of wire/s and
1000Hz inductance, guesstimate the average diameter of turns and find wire
gauge to resistance table and isn't there a formula for the ratings of the
secondary then.

Failing that, try those measurements on some other known or powerable
similar transformer.

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

 

[N_Cook]

Ron(UK) <ron@lunevalleyaudio.com> wrote in message
news:UsCdnTrXO82nZ9rVnZ2dnUVZ8j6dnZ2d@bt.com...

As the subject says, I have a Denon PMA 250 with an open circuit mains
transformer primary - no doubt the thermal protection has failed. Can
anyone tell me the secondary voltage?


RonUK


--
Lune Valley Audio
Public Address Systems
Hire Sales Maintenance
www.lunevalleyaudio.com

Assuming you have tried excavating into the wrapping to find a th f and not
found it.

Is the secondary wire/s carried out to the terminals ?
Then measure diameter of the wire/s , measure DC resistance of wire/s and
1000Hz inductance, guesstimate the average diameter of turns and find wire
gauge to resistance table and isn't there a formula for the ratings of the
secondary then.

Failing that, try those measurements on some other known or powerable
similar transformer.

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

 

[Arfa Daily]

"PhattyMo" <phattymo@not.net> wrote in message
news:4847a4e5$0$89399$815e3792@news.qwest.net...

captainvideo462002@yahoo.com wrote:
We have a customer who owns a series of 24 and 30 unit apartment
buildings. Presently on each floor as per local requirements there are
several self contained emergency lighting units. Some of these are
equipped with a small 6V battery and just two low voltage lamps that
aim in different directions down the hallway, while other larger units
having larger batteries sometimes might have as many as six 12volt
lamps wired remotely. These all are equipped with sealed lead acid
rechargeable batteries which need to be replaced every few years. Two
of his buildings are exceptions though and don’t have this type of
lighting. In these buildings, the hallway lighting circuit is wired
through an inverter system. This system, which was built by a company
in Massachusetts many years ago is installed in the boiler/electrical
room, and consists of two 12VDC to 120VAC 450W solid state inverters
operating in parallel and two group 24 size wet cell automotive
batteries. There is a built in charger and a huge contactor which
drops out upon loss of AC and applies 12VDC to the inverters. Loss of
AC will cause the load to toggle over to the inverter outputs and the
hallway lighting circuit remains powered. Maintenance on these two
buildings is minimal and his ultimate cost savings projection becomes
significant when multiplying installing this type of system into the
100’s of buildings which he presently owns. He has asked me to look
into finding this type of equipment for him to retrofit his other
buildings. The typical load is about 400W CFL and will probably never
exceed 550W. I don’t know how picky these particular 13W CFL units are
to anything other than sine wave AC. I know sine wave or even modified
sine wave will probably increase cost somewhat. Does anyone have any
ideas for inverter systems equipment they might be able to share with
me? Thanks, Lenny.


CFL's _Shouldn't_ be picky about power. They are usually always rectified
to DC inside.Sine,Square,sawtooth even-it doesn't matter to the rectifier.

I'm not too convinced by that argument. The inverter squeezed into the base
of these lamps, is by necessity very small, which only allows for a filter
cap of around 10uF. It is often this cap that fails in these lamps, so
clearly, it is stressed already, by the heat, and the job it's trying to do
filtering the raw DC from the reccy. I reckon that if you start hitting it
with a real bad shaped waveform, it might be just a bit too much for it.
Bear in mind also that these things are inherently electrically noisy, and
only just about squeeze by the RF emission regs - at least here in the UK -
with a sine wave going in. With a rough wave being supplied, they might just
kick up enough radiation, to cause a problem.

Arfa

 

[Arfa Daily]

"PhattyMo" <phattymo@not.net> wrote in message
news:4847a4e5$0$89399$815e3792@news.qwest.net...

captainvideo462002@yahoo.com wrote:
We have a customer who owns a series of 24 and 30 unit apartment
buildings. Presently on each floor as per local requirements there are
several self contained emergency lighting units. Some of these are
equipped with a small 6V battery and just two low voltage lamps that
aim in different directions down the hallway, while other larger units
having larger batteries sometimes might have as many as six 12volt
lamps wired remotely. These all are equipped with sealed lead acid
rechargeable batteries which need to be replaced every few years. Two
of his buildings are exceptions though and don’t have this type of
lighting. In these buildings, the hallway lighting circuit is wired
through an inverter system. This system, which was built by a company
in Massachusetts many years ago is installed in the boiler/electrical
room, and consists of two 12VDC to 120VAC 450W solid state inverters
operating in parallel and two group 24 size wet cell automotive
batteries. There is a built in charger and a huge contactor which
drops out upon loss of AC and applies 12VDC to the inverters. Loss of
AC will cause the load to toggle over to the inverter outputs and the
hallway lighting circuit remains powered. Maintenance on these two
buildings is minimal and his ultimate cost savings projection becomes
significant when multiplying installing this type of system into the
100’s of buildings which he presently owns. He has asked me to look
into finding this type of equipment for him to retrofit his other
buildings. The typical load is about 400W CFL and will probably never
exceed 550W. I don’t know how picky these particular 13W CFL units are
to anything other than sine wave AC. I know sine wave or even modified
sine wave will probably increase cost somewhat. Does anyone have any
ideas for inverter systems equipment they might be able to share with
me? Thanks, Lenny.


CFL's _Shouldn't_ be picky about power. They are usually always rectified
to DC inside.Sine,Square,sawtooth even-it doesn't matter to the rectifier.

I'm not too convinced by that argument. The inverter squeezed into the base
of these lamps, is by necessity very small, which only allows for a filter
cap of around 10uF. It is often this cap that fails in these lamps, so
clearly, it is stressed already, by the heat, and the job it's trying to do
filtering the raw DC from the reccy. I reckon that if you start hitting it
with a real bad shaped waveform, it might be just a bit too much for it.
Bear in mind also that these things are inherently electrically noisy, and
only just about squeeze by the RF emission regs - at least here in the UK -
with a sine wave going in. With a rough wave being supplied, they might just
kick up enough radiation, to cause a problem.

Arfa

 

[Arfa Daily]

"Meat Plow" <meat@petitmorte.net> wrote in message
news:1u3bl9.7cn.17.1@news.alt.net...

On Wed, 04 Jun 2008 04:52:31 -0700, William Sommerwerck wrote:

"Eeyore" <rabbitsfriendsandrelations@hotmail.com
wrote in message news:48467E45.F488F1BA@hotmail.com...

Do you know what I mean by the "output Zobel network"?

A Zobel network is used for impedance compensation -- usually to make a
circuit look more resistive.

An amp with such a network at its output might very well be unusually
load-sensitive.

I doubt it if as advertised it can "handle 2 ohms all night long".

I wouldn't repair this amp for a "customer" and probably wouldn't waste my
time on it for myself having been burned by Mackie in the past. Besides, I
can buy a 2000 watt amp brand new also made in China for around $300 US.
Someone brought me a used Crown Micro-Tech 1200 they wanted to sell for
$400.00 US and even though I am a big fan of Crown especially that series
I offered half that and they refused. I told them I can get 2000 watts
into 4 ohms bridged for 300 bucks. I used a Micro-Tech 1000 for my bass
guitar rig along with a BBE 383 bass preamp for 10 years worth of regular
club and party gigs without ever a problem. Here's a picture of it along
with 6 and a half feet of other gear I have in a rack.

http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj220/meatplow1/music/CIMG0259.jpg

Isn't using a vacuum cleaner as the rack cooling blower, a bit noisy ... ?


Arfa

 

[Arfa Daily]

"Meat Plow" <meat@petitmorte.net> wrote in message
news:1u3bl9.7cn.17.1@news.alt.net...

On Wed, 04 Jun 2008 04:52:31 -0700, William Sommerwerck wrote:

"Eeyore" <rabbitsfriendsandrelations@hotmail.com
wrote in message news:48467E45.F488F1BA@hotmail.com...

Do you know what I mean by the "output Zobel network"?

A Zobel network is used for impedance compensation -- usually to make a
circuit look more resistive.

An amp with such a network at its output might very well be unusually
load-sensitive.

I doubt it if as advertised it can "handle 2 ohms all night long".

I wouldn't repair this amp for a "customer" and probably wouldn't waste my
time on it for myself having been burned by Mackie in the past. Besides, I
can buy a 2000 watt amp brand new also made in China for around $300 US.
Someone brought me a used Crown Micro-Tech 1200 they wanted to sell for
$400.00 US and even though I am a big fan of Crown especially that series
I offered half that and they refused. I told them I can get 2000 watts
into 4 ohms bridged for 300 bucks. I used a Micro-Tech 1000 for my bass
guitar rig along with a BBE 383 bass preamp for 10 years worth of regular
club and party gigs without ever a problem. Here's a picture of it along
with 6 and a half feet of other gear I have in a rack.

http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj220/meatplow1/music/CIMG0259.jpg

Isn't using a vacuum cleaner as the rack cooling blower, a bit noisy ... ?


Arfa

 

[Michael Kennedy]

"William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:kvydnb8rD-ERU9rVnZ2dnUVZ_rzinZ2d@comcast.com...

Running batteries in parallel is a bad idea. Think of what will happen if
their voltages don't match. If you do such a thing, you need to put diodes
in series with each.

Some car batteries are connected in parallel. Especially larger trucks with
diesel engines.

Mike

 

[Andrew Erickson]

<snipped story about inverters for emergency lighting>

You might find it helpful to look about RV supply places. There are a
number of (often somewhat spendy, unfortunately) inverter/charger units
available that do it all automatically and have decent sine wave
outputs. Basically, they just hook up to the AC input, battery, and
output, and will charge the battery as needed when AC is around and
automatically switch over to inverter mode when AC is
removed--essentially a UPS circuit, really. I'd trust them to work
reliably in an emergency more than I'd trust a cheap no-name inverter.

--
Andrew Erickson

"He is no fool who gives what he cannot keep to gain that which he cannot
lose." -- Jim Elliot

 

[Arfa Daily]

"Ron(UK)" <ron@lunevalleyaudio.com> wrote in message
news:UsCdnTrXO82nZ9rVnZ2dnUVZ8j6dnZ2d@bt.com...

As the subject says, I have a Denon PMA 250 with an open circuit mains
transformer primary - no doubt the thermal protection has failed. Can
anyone tell me the secondary voltage?


RonUK


--
Lune Valley Audio
Public Address Systems
Hire Sales Maintenance
www.lunevalleyaudio.com

If you can't get a definitive figure for the secondary voltage, how about
the old 70% of the main filter caps' rated voltage, times 0.707
guesstiformula ?

So, for instance, 63v rated caps, times 70% = about 44v, times 0.707 =
about 30v RMS. As for current rating, take output stage efficiency at say
50% so for total output power of 50 watts per channel, stage input power
around 200 watts. With 88v of supply across it, that's around 2.3 amps.

30-0-30 at 2.5 amps sounds reasonable. Just as a matter of interest Ron, why
not a 'genuine' replacement ?

Arfa

 

[bz]

NoSp <none@none.none> wrote in news:4849161a$1@news.broadpark.no:

JW wrote:
On Thu, 05 Jun 2008 11:43:17 +0200 NoSp <none@none.none> wrote in
Message id: <4847b50d$1@news.broadpark.no>:

In case someone here is reading: it's a 15.2" screen (1440x960
pixels). The particular model in my computer is a Samsung
LTN152W6-L01,

Using google I found a number of hits for companies selling this panel.
The cheapest in the hits I looked at, is this one:
http://www.sparepartswarehouse.com/OEM,Laptop,Part,LTN152W6L01.aspx

Thanks.
I also found out that Moniserv/LCDparts does LCD repairs
(http://www.moniserv.com/doc/pricelist.html) which might be worth
looking into, once I figure out where the problem lies.

It seems like some sort of contact problem as wiggling the display
around changes it from showing just a bunch of vertical lines and the
actual computer desktop (although quite distorted).
Apart from the LCD display itself it could be the connector/cable that
goes from the computer to the LCD panel.

So what I've done now is very carefully remove the LCD panel itself (the
glass only), connected the cable from the computer and having a light
from behind so I can see what's going on.
So far I only get the vertical lines, and there's absolutely no changing
in that no matter what I do.
(the reason I took the LCD panel out of its frame/assembly is because I
wanted to access the areas where the ribbon cables enter the LCD panel,
so as to carefully wiggle them to see if it made any difference -it
doesn't!). That's probably good news because it probably means that the
ribbon cables aren't damaged, but why is there no desktop display no
matter what I do? At least, when I had the LCD assembled I could wiggle
it until I saw the desktop on the screen.

This brings me to my next question...
There are 3 thin, flexible PCB type things sticking out on the left hand
side of the display. Here's a photo I've taken of the topmost one (there
are two more like it):
http://img524.imageshack.us/img524/1831/lcdedgeug6.jpg

What's the purpose of these? Are they some sort of ground connections?
I'm asking because I find it strange that the display doesn't change now
that I don't have it in its frame along with the filters/reflector etc.
as it did when I had those parts available, and everything was
assembled.

http://www.teac.com.au/pages/howdoesanlcdwork

In brief, signals come in along the edges, all across the top and side of
the screen. If any of the connections are damaged, entire rows or columns
can stop responding.



--
bz 73 de N5BZ k

please pardon my infinite ignorance, the set-of-things-I-do-not-know is an
infinite set.

bz+ser@ch100-5.chem.lsu.edu remove ch100-5 to avoid spam trap

 

[bz]

NoSp <none@none.none> wrote in news:4849161a$1@news.broadpark.no:

JW wrote:
On Thu, 05 Jun 2008 11:43:17 +0200 NoSp <none@none.none> wrote in
Message id: <4847b50d$1@news.broadpark.no>:

In case someone here is reading: it's a 15.2" screen (1440x960
pixels). The particular model in my computer is a Samsung
LTN152W6-L01,

Using google I found a number of hits for companies selling this panel.
The cheapest in the hits I looked at, is this one:
http://www.sparepartswarehouse.com/OEM,Laptop,Part,LTN152W6L01.aspx

Thanks.
I also found out that Moniserv/LCDparts does LCD repairs
(http://www.moniserv.com/doc/pricelist.html) which might be worth
looking into, once I figure out where the problem lies.

It seems like some sort of contact problem as wiggling the display
around changes it from showing just a bunch of vertical lines and the
actual computer desktop (although quite distorted).
Apart from the LCD display itself it could be the connector/cable that
goes from the computer to the LCD panel.

So what I've done now is very carefully remove the LCD panel itself (the
glass only), connected the cable from the computer and having a light
from behind so I can see what's going on.
So far I only get the vertical lines, and there's absolutely no changing
in that no matter what I do.
(the reason I took the LCD panel out of its frame/assembly is because I
wanted to access the areas where the ribbon cables enter the LCD panel,
so as to carefully wiggle them to see if it made any difference -it
doesn't!). That's probably good news because it probably means that the
ribbon cables aren't damaged, but why is there no desktop display no
matter what I do? At least, when I had the LCD assembled I could wiggle
it until I saw the desktop on the screen.

This brings me to my next question...
There are 3 thin, flexible PCB type things sticking out on the left hand
side of the display. Here's a photo I've taken of the topmost one (there
are two more like it):
http://img524.imageshack.us/img524/1831/lcdedgeug6.jpg

What's the purpose of these? Are they some sort of ground connections?
I'm asking because I find it strange that the display doesn't change now
that I don't have it in its frame along with the filters/reflector etc.
as it did when I had those parts available, and everything was
assembled.

http://www.teac.com.au/pages/howdoesanlcdwork

In brief, signals come in along the edges, all across the top and side of
the screen. If any of the connections are damaged, entire rows or columns
can stop responding.



--
bz 73 de N5BZ k

please pardon my infinite ignorance, the set-of-things-I-do-not-know is an
infinite set.

bz+ser@ch100-5.chem.lsu.edu remove ch100-5 to avoid spam trap