Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[Paul Hovnanian P.E.]

Esther & Fester Bestertester wrote:

The other thing to consider is the mass of the sensor, the flexibility
of the adhesive and the resulting natural frequency of the sensor
assembly. A massive sensor and/or flexible coupling will result in a
lower frequency and result in attenuation of signals above that point.

The "flexible coupling" provided by the epoxies I've tried is causing issues.

Can you quantify thos issues?

It's been suggested that I try silver-filled epoxy and potting compound.
Dental cement was also a suggestion. I'm looking at all of these.

Perhaps. I suppose you could keep trying stuff until the system appears
to work better.

FBt

--
Paul Hovnanian mailtoaul@Hovnanian.com
------------------------------------------------------------------
First they ignore you, then they ridicule you, then they fight you,
then you win. -Gandhi

 

[Gerald Newton]

On Mar 21, 10:36 am, Esther & Fester Bestertester <n...@me.really>
wrote:

Rubinno cement

Google turns up zero hits. Is the correct spelling? Any web references you
can give?

Thanks,
FBt

Try:
Kearfott Guidance & Navigation Corporation
1150 McBride Avenue
Little Falls, New Jersey 07424-2500, USA

 

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easier to run than ever before.

Welcome to http://www.seriouswholesale.com.

seriouswholesale - Buy from the source, profit without the hassle.

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wholesaler & drop-shipper: seriouswholesale. com

 

On 3ÔÂ21ČŐ, ÉĎÎç5Ęą09ˇÖ, Esther & Fester Bestertester <n...@me.really>
wrote:

See no n.g. for adhesives & epoxies, so if there's a better forum for this,
just point me to it.

I need an epoxy that is strong to the point of brittle. I want no flex; it
has to transmit vibration as close to 100% as possible.

Am I looking for a high Shore Hardness value? That's what Devcon uses in its
data sheets to specify hardness.

Is this something that I can achieve by changing the mix of the 2 parts? If
so, what do I lose if I use more hardener?

Any personal experiences with epoxies that you found to be harder than
others?

Thanks.
FBt

Do you want access to China's massive pool of electronic
manufacturers... but lack the time to contact suppliers, negotiate
contracts, arrange shipping or monitor product quality? Don't worry -
Let seriouswholesale deal with all that for you.

*Check out the huge range of Gadgets, MP3 / MP4 Players, Car DVD /
Audio, and Computer Accessories now by visiting the online wholesale
catalog at seriouswholesale. com You'll have peace of mind thanks to
the seriouswholesale Quality Control, 12-month Warranty on all
products, and easy secure payment by credit card through Paypal.

Selling on eBay or your own online store? Send products direct from
our warehouse to your customers using our unique drop-shipping
service. You can profit by selling hundreds of different products,
without holding any of your own inventory! Any questions you have will
be answered by the seriouswholesale English-speaking customer support
team... Their aim is to make your China electronics importing business
easier to run than ever before.

Welcome to http://www.seriouswholesale.com.

seriouswholesale - Buy from the source, profit without the hassle.

- 12 Months Warranty - No minimum order restrictions - Drop-shipping
with no additional fee - Pay by safely by PayPal seriouswholesale
Wholesale Co., Ltd.: Chinas original and best online electronics
wholesaler & drop-shipper: seriouswholesale. com

 

[amdx]

"TT_Man" <Someone@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:IbCEj.862$4f4.645@newsfe6-win.ntli.net...

"Esther & Fester Bestertester" <not@me.really> wrote in message
news:0001HW.C408208C00069F2AB01AD9AF@news.sf.sbcglobal.net...
See no n.g. for adhesives & epoxies, so if there's a better forum for
this,
just point me to it.

I need an epoxy that is strong to the point of brittle. I want no flex;
it
has to transmit vibration as close to 100% as possible.

Am I looking for a high Shore Hardness value? That's what Devcon uses in
its
data sheets to specify hardness.

Is this something that I can achieve by changing the mix of the 2 parts?
If
so, what do I lose if I use more hardener?

Any personal experiences with epoxies that you found to be harder than
others?

Thanks.
FBt

If you can afford it, Araldite 2014. 4-6 hrs grab, 24hr set.It's a grey
paste two part.-

I like Araldite 10, fast cure, 10 minutes to set, 1hr cure. The last time

I ordered it it came as Huntsman 10. You should be able to find a spec.
sheet online.
Huntsman Advanced Materials Americas Inc.
4917 Dawn Ave.
East Lansing Mi. 48823-5691
517-351-5900
Mike

 

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ÔÄśÁ¸üśŕ

Do you want access to China's massive pool of electronic
manufacturers... but lack the time to contact suppliers, negotiate
contracts, arrange shipping or monitor product quality? Don't worry -
Let seriouswholesale deal with all that for you.

*Check out the huge range of Gadgets, MP3 / MP4 Players, Car DVD /
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Selling on eBay or your own online store? Send products direct from
our warehouse to your customers using our unique drop-shipping
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without holding any of your own inventory! Any questions you have will
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team... Their aim is to make your China electronics importing business
easier to run than ever before.

Welcome to http://www.seriouswholesale.com.

seriouswholesale - Buy from the source, profit without the hassle.

- 12 Months Warranty - No minimum order restrictions - Drop-shipping
with no additional fee - Pay by safely by PayPal seriouswholesale
Wholesale Co., Ltd.: Chinas original and best online electronics
wholesaler & drop-shipper: seriouswholesale. com

 

On 3ÔÂ21ČŐ, ÉĎÎç5Ęą09ˇÖ, Esther & Fester Bestertester <n...@me.really>
wrote:

See no n.g. for adhesives & epoxies, so if there's a better forum for this,
just point me to it.

I need an epoxy that is strong to the point of brittle. I want no flex; it
has to transmit vibration as close to 100% as possible.

Am I looking for a high Shore Hardness value? That's what Devcon uses in its
data sheets to specify hardness.

Is this something that I can achieve by changing the mix of the 2 parts? If
so, what do I lose if I use more hardener?

Any personal experiences with epoxies that you found to be harder than
others?

Thanks.
FBt

Do you want access to China's massive pool of electronic
manufacturers... but lack the time to contact suppliers, negotiate
contracts, arrange shipping or monitor product quality? Don't worry -
Let seriouswholesale deal with all that for you.

*Check out the huge range of Gadgets, MP3 / MP4 Players, Car DVD /
Audio, and Computer Accessories now by visiting the online wholesale
catalog at seriouswholesale. com You'll have peace of mind thanks to
the seriouswholesale Quality Control, 12-month Warranty on all
products, and easy secure payment by credit card through Paypal.

Selling on eBay or your own online store? Send products direct from
our warehouse to your customers using our unique drop-shipping
service. You can profit by selling hundreds of different products,
without holding any of your own inventory! Any questions you have will
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easier to run than ever before.

Welcome to http://www.seriouswholesale.com.

seriouswholesale - Buy from the source, profit without the hassle.

- 12 Months Warranty - No minimum order restrictions - Drop-shipping
with no additional fee - Pay by safely by PayPal seriouswholesale
Wholesale Co., Ltd.: Chinas original and best online electronics
wholesaler & drop-shipper: seriouswholesale. com

 

[Rich Grise]

On Thu, 20 Mar 2008 16:19:07 -0700, The Last Mimsy wrote:

On Thu, 20 Mar 2008 21:09:14 GMT, Esther & Fester Bestertester

See no n.g. for adhesives & epoxies, so if there's a better forum for this,
just point me to it.

I need an epoxy that is strong to the point of brittle. I want no flex; it
has to transmit vibration as close to 100% as possible.

Am I looking for a high Shore Hardness value? That's what Devcon uses in its
data sheets to specify hardness.

Is this something that I can achieve by changing the mix of the 2 parts? If
so, what do I lose if I use more hardener?

Any personal experiences with epoxies that you found to be harder than
others?

With the way you worded this, it would seem that a technical response
would go right over your head.

Epoxy mix ratios are NEVER meant to be altered. You need to find an
epoxy that matches your needs. The only time I ever saw mix ratio ranges
to alter behavior, it was with an epoxy branded as "stycast". Which,
would oddly meat your needs.

It will not likely be cheap, however.

Just FYI, when I was a kid, my Dad (RIP) got a two-bottle set of one of
the first epoxies, and its instructions gave one ratio for a rigid bond,
and another for "flexible".

I haven't seen anything like that lately, probably because so few
people would have the right measuring stuff.

Thanks,
Rich

 

[The Last Mimsy]

On Tue, 25 Mar 2008 01:40:00 GMT, Rich Grise <rich@example.net> wrote:

On Thu, 20 Mar 2008 16:19:07 -0700, The Last Mimsy wrote:
On Thu, 20 Mar 2008 21:09:14 GMT, Esther & Fester Bestertester

See no n.g. for adhesives & epoxies, so if there's a better forum for this,
just point me to it.

I need an epoxy that is strong to the point of brittle. I want no flex; it
has to transmit vibration as close to 100% as possible.

Am I looking for a high Shore Hardness value? That's what Devcon uses in its
data sheets to specify hardness.

Is this something that I can achieve by changing the mix of the 2 parts? If
so, what do I lose if I use more hardener?

Any personal experiences with epoxies that you found to be harder than
others?

With the way you worded this, it would seem that a technical response
would go right over your head.

Epoxy mix ratios are NEVER meant to be altered. You need to find an
epoxy that matches your needs. The only time I ever saw mix ratio ranges
to alter behavior, it was with an epoxy branded as "stycast". Which,
would oddly meat your needs.

It will not likely be cheap, however.

Just FYI, when I was a kid, my Dad (RIP) got a two-bottle set of one of
the first epoxies, and its instructions gave one ratio for a rigid bond,
and another for "flexible".

I haven't seen anything like that lately, probably because so few
people would have the right measuring stuff.

Thanks,
Rich

There are some epoxies that give different characteristics with a
different mix ratio, but not many, and NONE of those that do not should
be manipulated in such a way.

The "stycast" I mentioned has about four different hardening schedules,
and uses about three different hardening medias. All yield differing
results for heat resistance, high temp softening after cure, etc.

When it is several grams of base media, and a few drops of "hardener",
I call it barely qualified to be called epoxy.

When the mix is closer to 50 50, one will find it is more stringently
adhered to as both constituents are critical to the finished medium.

Some mixes have to be accurate to within 0.1 grams or 0.1%.

 

On Mar 22, 9:49 pm, Esther & Fester Bestertester <n...@me.really>
wrote:

The other thing to consider is the mass of the sensor, the
flexibility
of the adhesive and the resulting natural frequency of the sensor
assembly. A massive sensor and/or flexible coupling will result
in a
lower frequency and result in attenuation of signals above that
point.

The "flexible coupling" provided by the epoxies I've tried is
causing issues.

It's been suggested that I try silver-filled epoxy and potting
compound.
Dental cement was also a suggestion. I'm looking at all of these.

FBt

Devcon Plastic Welder or Stabilit Express are methacrylates that are
much harder and stronger than the hardware store epoxies and cheap
enough to try.

http://www.hobby-lobby.com/adhesive.htm

http://www.ellsworth.com/plastic_welder.html

GG

 

[Meat Plow]

On Tue, 25 Mar 2008 19:34:24 +0000, bz wrote:

Meat Plow <meat@petitmorte.net> wrote in
news:1o88aj.h74.19.2@news.alt.net:

On Tue, 25 Mar 2008 14:47:09 +0000, N Cook wrote:

Just as I was blowing out, with a 1KW Martindale, the crud of ages from
an amp and its fans.
Thought - these fans act as DC generators if blown forcefully.
Presumably you could damage, if driving negative volts into ps or fan
contol circuit. Next time I will jam something in the blades before
zapping one with 1KW of draught.

I've never given it a second thought. Nor have I ever damaged anything
by it. As a young lad I loved to turn my bicycle upside down and turn
the garden hose on the pedals and wheels and watch them spin.

I was having problems with my car. Was in a small town garage watching
while the guy removed the noisy wheel bearing from my front wheel. He
washed it a couple of swishes in solvent and grabbed the pressurized air
hose. As he started to blow the solvent out, the bearing started to spin.
It sounded like a warning siren.

Within a few seconds, it went 'BANG' and roller bearings ricochet around
the garage like bullets.

He yelled and started to nurse a sore hand. His boss came out and
explained to him why he should never do that. (I think he had already
learned the lesson.)

Well, I needed new wheel bearings, anyway.

LOL great story.

I blew the rear end out of my 70 Dodge Charger R/T at a drag strip when I
was kid. A couple of the bolts that hold the ring gear to the carrier blew
right through the cover. Luckily nobody was standing behind me.

 

[bz]

Meat Plow <meat@petitmorte.net> wrote in
news:1o88aj.h74.19.2@news.alt.net:

On Tue, 25 Mar 2008 14:47:09 +0000, N Cook wrote:

Just as I was blowing out, with a 1KW Martindale, the crud of ages from
an amp and its fans.
Thought - these fans act as DC generators if blown forcefully.
Presumably you could damage, if driving negative volts into ps or fan
contol circuit. Next time I will jam something in the blades before
zapping one with 1KW of draught.

I've never given it a second thought. Nor have I ever damaged anything
by it. As a young lad I loved to turn my bicycle upside down and turn
the garden hose on the pedals and wheels and watch them spin.

I was having problems with my car. Was in a small town garage watching
while the guy removed the noisy wheel bearing from my front wheel. He
washed it a couple of swishes in solvent and grabbed the pressurized air
hose. As he started to blow the solvent out, the bearing started to spin.
It sounded like a warning siren.

Within a few seconds, it went 'BANG' and roller bearings ricochet around
the garage like bullets.

He yelled and started to nurse a sore hand.
His boss came out and explained to him why he should never do that.
(I think he had already learned the lesson.)

Well, I needed new wheel bearings, anyway.




--
bz

please pardon my infinite ignorance, the set-of-things-I-do-not-know is an
infinite set.

bz+nanae@ch100-5.chem.lsu.edu

 

[Michael A. Terrell]

Meat Plow wrote:

On Tue, 25 Mar 2008 19:34:24 +0000, bz wrote:

Meat Plow <meat@petitmorte.net> wrote in
news:1o88aj.h74.19.2@news.alt.net:

On Tue, 25 Mar 2008 14:47:09 +0000, N Cook wrote:

Just as I was blowing out, with a 1KW Martindale, the crud of ages from
an amp and its fans.
Thought - these fans act as DC generators if blown forcefully.
Presumably you could damage, if driving negative volts into ps or fan
contol circuit. Next time I will jam something in the blades before
zapping one with 1KW of draught.

I've never given it a second thought. Nor have I ever damaged anything
by it. As a young lad I loved to turn my bicycle upside down and turn
the garden hose on the pedals and wheels and watch them spin.

I was having problems with my car. Was in a small town garage watching
while the guy removed the noisy wheel bearing from my front wheel. He
washed it a couple of swishes in solvent and grabbed the pressurized air
hose. As he started to blow the solvent out, the bearing started to spin.
It sounded like a warning siren.

Within a few seconds, it went 'BANG' and roller bearings ricochet around
the garage like bullets.

He yelled and started to nurse a sore hand. His boss came out and
explained to him why he should never do that. (I think he had already
learned the lesson.)

Well, I needed new wheel bearings, anyway.

LOL great story.

I blew the rear end out of my 70 Dodge Charger R/T at a drag strip when I
was kid. A couple of the bolts that hold the ring gear to the carrier blew
right through the cover. Luckily nobody was standing behind me.

An Army buddy and I decided to head to Florida on a long weekend. We
got about 50 miles from Ft. Rucker when he threw a connecting rod, and
sent the piston through the oil pan. I found the piston about 150 feet
away with part of the sheared wrist pin and broken rod bolted to one
side. I took it back to the barracks and cleaned it up, and removed the
piece of the connecting rod. If you were careful, you could balance it
on the desk, on the one good surface. The next day we had some smart
ass sergeant along with the captain for Monday morning inspection. The
Sergeant grabbed it up and started yelling, demanding to know what it
was, and why it was on my desk. The captain had a big grin on his face,
so I smiled and told the jerk "It's a hemorrhoid extractor, would you
like me to demonstrate it on you?" He stormed out of the room, while
the Captain struggled to keep from laughing at him.


--
aioe.org is home to cowards and terrorists

Add this line to your news proxy nfilter.dat file
* drop Path:*aioe.org!not-for-mail to drop all aioe.org traffic.

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[Joy]

On Tue, 25 Mar 2008 14:54:35 -0400, bz <bz+spr@ch100-5.chem.lsu.edu> wrote:

bz <bz+ser@ch100-5.chem.lsu.edu> wrote in
news:Xns9A6C8BDDFE46DWQAHBGMXSZHVspammote@130.39.198.139:

Joy <Mycroft_B@yahoo.com> wrote in newsp.t8k1rkvqug52hc@user-
47b243c432.myhome.westell.com:

I am trying to make a beeper to plug into a sonic alert unit for a deaf
person.

I have a 12V DC transformer directly wired to a 3-20V DC beeping siren.
When the transformer is plugged in, the siren goes BEEP...BEEP...BEEP
as it should, but when the power is cut, the beeping fades out instead
of stopping immediately. BEEp...Beep...beee...

Is there a simple way to get the siren to silence as soon as the power
is cut?

Thanks so much!

Joy

one last try. Sorry. I missed seeing that you were using a 'DC
transformer'.

They have a capacitor built in that is holding a charge.

All you need to do is disconnect the siren from the power supply.
It should shut off immediately.

You should do this with a 110 vac relay.

Hook the coil of the relay in parallel with your power supply.
When the power comes on, you want the relay to close and hook the siren
to the power supply.
When the AC goes off, you want the relay to open and disconnect the siren
from the power supply.

The power supply will only use power when the beeper is activated. And
you won't be wasting power with a resistor and possibly damaging your
power
supply.

Would a 110 vac relay be activated by a 12-15V DC transformer?
And this would mean both the relay and the siren would be powered by the
same power supply (the dc transformer) except that the relay would also
switch the siren. Is this correct?

I WAS trying to be really simple which is why the light bulb or resistor
idea sounds good.

How much damage could I do by using a resistor box and starting with a
high value and slowly working down until it worked acceptably? I guess I
could damage something in the process, but how likely do you think it
would be?

Joy

 

[PeterD]

On Wed, 26 Mar 2008 06:41:05 +1100, Franc Zabkar
<fzabkar@iinternode.on.net> wrote:

On Tue, 25 Mar 2008 11:04:22 -0400, PeterD <peter2@hipson.net> put
finger to keyboard and composed:

On Tue, 25 Mar 2008 14:47:09 -0000, "N Cook" <diverse8@gazeta.pl
wrote:

Just as I was blowing out, with a 1KW Martindale, the crud of ages from an
amp and its fans.
Thought - these fans act as DC generators if blown forcefully. Presumably
you could damage, if driving negative volts into ps or fan contol circuit.
Next time I will jam something in the blades before zapping one with 1KW of
draught.

All the fans I've seen were 'brushless' AC polyphase with protection
to the driver board (inside the fan) to prevent damage.

I suppose if you were reallyi creative you could turn one into an
alternator and generate (a small amount) of power with it... <g

Brushless DC fan motors use integrated Hall effect sensors/ICs for
electronic commutation.

See these datasheets for examples:
http://www.anpec.com.tw/products/download/pdf/APX9141a7.pdf
http://www.anpec.com.tw/products/download/pdf/APX9140a8.pdf

These ICs have integral reverse voltage protection, as you have said.

Here is a more elaborate example:
http://web.archive.org/web/20060515113837/http://www.ece.msstate.edu/~hagler/May2001/02/FIG2.JPG

I'm wondering how the EMF produced by the motor windings can generate
a current that passes through the switching elements, either in the
form of discrete transistors or internal to the commutator IC. I
suppose that in the latter example the current could flow through the
diodes.

I wasn't clear, I was thinking rip out the electronics in there now
and add rectifiers...

As an experiment, I suppose you could attach two fan rotors
back-to-back with a suitable spacer (eg velco?) and use one fan to
drive the other.

- Franc Zabkar

 

[James Sweet]

Would a 110 vac relay be activated by a 12-15V DC transformer?
And this would mean both the relay and the siren would be powered by the
same power supply (the dc transformer) except that the relay would also
switch the siren. Is this correct?

I WAS trying to be really simple which is why the light bulb or resistor
idea sounds good.

How much damage could I do by using a resistor box and starting with a
high value and slowly working down until it worked acceptably? I guess I
could damage something in the process, but how likely do you think it
would be?

Joy

He means connect the relay to the same power source that the transformer is
connected to, and use the contacts to switch the output of the transformer.
That route occurred to me but I skipped it as it seems more complex than
other solutions.

You won't hurt anything with the resistor, just don't go so low in value
that you draw more than the transformer is rated to produce, I would try
something around 470 ohms 1/2W, that's a common value. That'll draw about
25mA and should silence the beeper immediately.

 

[jimhigh66]

Tnx James. I'm thinking made about 2002 -- I bought it late 2002. I KNOW
when the unit was subject to a power surge and that's when it failed.
However there might be other parts damaged as well and that's why I like
to know correct voltages and where to look for them.

--
Message posted using http://www.talkaboutelectronicequipment.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/
More information at http://www.talkaboutelectronicequipment.com/faq.html

 

[James Sweet]

I wasn't clear, I was thinking rip out the electronics in there now
and add rectifiers...

It works. A hard drive spindle motor also makes a decent miniature 3 phase
AC generator. You can even wire one up to another similar motor and it will
run, just like a regular 3 phase motor.

 

[Sam Goldwasser]

"James Sweet" <jamessweet@hotmail.com> writes:

"jimhigh66" <mounthighly@aol.com> wrote in message
news:9ae402edf9c7ca7f61c7640fb6e42060@localhost.talkaboutelectronicequipment.com...
I have a Panasonic model PV-V4522 that has power supply damage -- screen
indicates there's some AC in the unit where there should be DC. A power
supply 82Mfd/200V capacitor has a swelled end and I suspect that part but
before I disassemble the unit to possibly replace that I'd like to look
for other possible problems by checking some voltages if I knew what they
should be and where to measure. Help would be appreciated. Tnx Jim

If a capacitor has swelled then it's bad. When was the unit made? There was
a huge batch of defective capacitors made back around 2000-2003 that found
their way into all sorts of stuff over the next few years. They often fail
like this for no apparent reason.

Failed electrolytics are common in Panasonic VCR power supplies. There are
capacitor kits to replace them all and they aren't expensive. That's
the first thing to do. Just replacing that one cap may fix it but
doing them all isn't that much work and others are probably going to
fail soon.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included in the
subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.

 

[James Sweet]

"jimhigh66" <mounthighly@aol.com> wrote in message
news:9d631ad28ba273ccd5804daa3c9cf84d@localhost.talkaboutelectronicequipment.com...

Tnx James. I'm thinking made about 2002 -- I bought it late 2002. I KNOW
when the unit was subject to a power surge and that's when it failed.
However there might be other parts damaged as well and that's why I like
to know correct voltages and where to look for them.

Was it a surge, or was it a sag? Momentary losses and brownouts often
trigger an apparent failure once capacitors get worn out like this. The
power supply can run, barely, but then if the voltage dips down to the point
it shuts down, it can't start up again.