Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[mm]

On Tue, 18 Mar 2008 05:49:55 -0700 (PDT), "hallerb@aol.com"
<hallerb@aol.com> wrote:

On Mar 17, 8:55?pm, mm <NOPSAMmm2...@bigfoot.com> wrote:
On Mon, 17 Mar 2008 17:47:18 -0700 (PDT), "hall...@aol.com"

hall...@aol.com> wrote:

you can install a tempering valve, it mixes cold with hot at or near
the tank effectively preventing scalds, and if you tap the dishwasher
line before the valve it can be as hot as you want.

note the hotter the tank the shorter the life, thermal stress is
tougher at higher temperatures

Which part fails in that case, when the water is too hot?

the tank leaks sooner, hotter is tougher with expansion and
contraction.

Thahks

 

[Michael A. Terrell]

Donna Ohl wrote:

On Mon, 17 Mar 2008 12:40:03 -0400, mm wrote:

If the water isn't hot enough, and one accidentally halfway fills a
tub with mixed water that isn't hot enough, the hot water isn't hot
enough to make the tub warm enough.

Oh. Good point. The way I have it set right now, the water is 120 degrees
(at the set point anyway) which is just right at the shower or tub. I'm
assuming (I didn't measure it) it's just above 100 degrees at the shower
since I know 104 degrees is too hot in a hot tub or me but anything below
104 degrees is just right.

Is it normal to lose about 20 degrees in moving from the hot water heater
to the shower?

If you can get to the pipe, add some of the molded foam pipe
insulation to reduce the heat loss, and the cost of using the water
heater.


--
aioe.org is home to cowards and terrorists

Add this line to your news proxy nfilter.dat file
* drop Path:*aioe.org!not-for-mail to drop all aioe.org traffic.

http://improve-usenet.org/index.html

 

[Joe Carroll]

Cheers for the reply,

I havent had a lot to do with subbing components before would A higer
current capacity but the same recovery rate be a major issue?

Joe.
"Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:n8rDj.26830$ki.9783@newsfe2-gui.ntli.net...

Joe

Looking at the data sheet for the TDA8177, this would appear to be the
boost
supply diode for the chip's output stage. The trick to replacing it is not
so much its voltage characteristics as the fact that it's a fast recovery
type. The following data sheet source for this component, also lists many
similar types, from which you should be able to select an alternative
that's
both suitable, and available.

http://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/view/127026/SANKEN/EU2A.html

Arfa


"Joe Carroll" <joe_redalert@bigpond.com> wrote in message
news:9CqDj.26693$421.9364@news-server.bigpond.net.au...
Ran into a bit of a wall here, Hanging off pin 6 of the tda8177
vertical
deflection ic. This is all fitted in a 68cm centrex tv (unsure of exact
model sticker on the back is missing.)

The tda 8177 has literally exploded and the diode is open circuit. I am
yet
to delve further into this set. I am unable to find a supplier for this
diode in australia, so looking for a sub

EU2A datasheet says
Maximum peak rev voltage: 600v
Maximum peak reverse surge voltage: 650v
Maximum average forward current: 1.0a
Maximum peak forward surge current: 15a

Any help is appreciated.

Joe.

 

[Arfa Daily]

"Joe Carroll" <joe_redalert@bigpond.com> wrote in message
news:9CqDj.26693$421.9364@news-server.bigpond.net.au...
Ran into a bit of a wall here, Hanging off pin 6 of the tda8177
vertical
deflection ic. This is all fitted in a 68cm centrex tv (unsure of exact
model sticker on the back is missing.)

The tda 8177 has literally exploded and the diode is open circuit. I am
yet
to delve further into this set. I am unable to find a supplier for this
diode in australia, so looking for a sub

EU2A datasheet says
Maximum peak rev voltage: 600v
Maximum peak reverse surge voltage: 650v
Maximum average forward current: 1.0a
Maximum peak forward surge current: 15a

Any help is appreciated.

Joe.



"Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:n8rDj.26830$ki.9783@newsfe2-gui.ntli.net...
Joe

Looking at the data sheet for the TDA8177, this would appear to be the
boost
supply diode for the chip's output stage. The trick to replacing it is
not
so much its voltage characteristics as the fact that it's a fast recovery
type. The following data sheet source for this component, also lists many
similar types, from which you should be able to select an alternative
that's
both suitable, and available.

http://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/view/127026/SANKEN/EU2A.html

Arfa

"Joe Carroll" <joe_redalert@bigpond.com> wrote in message
news:s23Ej.225$n8.64@news-server.bigpond.net.au...

Cheers for the reply,

I havent had a lot to do with subbing components before would A higer
current capacity but the same recovery rate be a major issue?

Joe.

In general, that would be an OK assumption. As long as the voltage and
current ratings at least match or are better, and it is a fast recovery
type, in this particular application, that will be fine. Check the package
style as well when you pick one, just in case it's different from the
original, which might cause an issue with board space.

Arfa

 

Donna, you got a new water heater and you are having problems with it?
cuhulin

 

[Dave Platt]

I need an epoxy that is strong to the point of brittle. I want no flex; it
has to transmit vibration as close to 100% as possible.

Sounds to me as if you're actually looking for stiffness, not
necessarily strength?

I think you'd want to look for (or make) a filled epoxy. A
high-strength epoxy which is loaded up with (e.g.) chopped or milled
fiberglass would be very stiff.

--
Dave Platt <dplatt@radagast.org> AE6EO
Friends of Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior
I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will
boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads!

 

[TT_Man]

"Esther & Fester Bestertester" <not@me.really> wrote in message
news:0001HW.C408208C00069F2AB01AD9AF@news.sf.sbcglobal.net...

See no n.g. for adhesives & epoxies, so if there's a better forum for
this,
just point me to it.

I need an epoxy that is strong to the point of brittle. I want no flex; it
has to transmit vibration as close to 100% as possible.

Am I looking for a high Shore Hardness value? That's what Devcon uses in
its
data sheets to specify hardness.

Is this something that I can achieve by changing the mix of the 2 parts?
If
so, what do I lose if I use more hardener?

Any personal experiences with epoxies that you found to be harder than
others?

Thanks.
FBt

If you can afford it, Araldite 2014. 4-6 hrs grab, 24hr set.It's a grey

paste two part.-

 

[The Last Mimsy]

On Thu, 20 Mar 2008 21:09:14 GMT, Esther & Fester Bestertester
<not@me.really> wrote:

See no n.g. for adhesives & epoxies, so if there's a better forum for this,
just point me to it.

I need an epoxy that is strong to the point of brittle. I want no flex; it
has to transmit vibration as close to 100% as possible.

Am I looking for a high Shore Hardness value? That's what Devcon uses in its
data sheets to specify hardness.

Is this something that I can achieve by changing the mix of the 2 parts? If
so, what do I lose if I use more hardener?

Any personal experiences with epoxies that you found to be harder than
others?

Thanks.
FBt

With the way you worded this, it would seem that a technical response
would go right over your head.

Epoxy mix ratios are NEVER meant to be altered. You need to find an
epoxy that matches your needs. The only time I ever saw mix ratio ranges
to alter behavior, it was with an epoxy branded as "stycast". Which,
would oddly meat your needs.

It will not likely be cheap, however.

 

[Didi]

Any personal experiences with epoxies that you found to be harder than
others?

I cannot suggest a harder epoxy but you pressed a sensitive button on
me
so here I go.

Many years ago (1991, to be precise) I opted to epoxy-fill my first
5kV
coils I did for my then employer in Cologne, Germany. I used no
multiplier,
straight flyback @ 5kV; about 1000 windings on an RM8 core, winding
and insulation layers being an art of their own. I located some very
liquid
epoxy meant for that purpose, then the whole module went filled, using
vacuum to make sure there were no cavities. Everything worked fine,
the filling
was perfect - I got asked how come the space between the *windinds*
was
not filled (0.05 wire, mylar foil between each layer) by my then
employer...
Some years later I had founded TGI in Bulgaria and did the first HV
source
making the coil more or less the same. However, I used off-the-shelf
epoxy;
it did not get as hard (although it was by far not as liquid before
hardening),
and after some warmup it began to conduct just enough to make the
thing
noisy... I wasted more than one coil (wound with a lot of work) until
I
got what was going on, I spent days if not weeks on that nightmare...
Eventually I learned I needed no filling at all, just a few drops of
melted
silicon at the right spots did the job (still does) quite well.

And on another occasion I had a guy from a detector repairshop in
Sofia
use the same effect trying to cheat on me... The HPGe gamma detectors
are very sensitive things, the front FET is cooled to -90C or so for
lowest
noise. The bias is a few kV (3.5 in that case), and the HV input is
filtered
through a 1Gohm/0.47uF group. Well, he had had the detector in his
hands
to "check it" for me and had put a stripe of such epoxid along the
resistor
between its pins... (The resistor is a rectangle, say 20x5mm, 1mm
thick).
After some warmup - the preamp consumes not so little, they have not
changed its design for >20 years - the detector begins to behave like
when it needs repair. Well he did not get it for repair because I
looked
and discovered what he had done and cleaned the mess up -and the
detector
worked fine. A few years later he got the same detector in his hands
directly from customers and did the same, this time he had added a
stripe
across the capacitor, though, and had scratched the paint of the
resistor between the pins. Mind you, I had told him I knew what he had
done the first time and he had done it again. I guess the epoxy must
have
had braindamaging effect as well.... (and I had refused to believe
other
people telling me he was sabotaging detectors before I got burned, the
epoxy must have worked on my brain as well - perhaps while dealing
with my coils... .

Dimiter

------------------------------------------------------
Dimiter Popoff Transgalactic Instruments

http://www.tgi-sci.com
------------------------------------------------------
http://www.flickr.com/photos/didi_tgi/sets/72157600228621276/

Esther & Fester Bestertester wrote:

See no n.g. for adhesives & epoxies, so if there's a better forum for this,
just point me to it.

I need an epoxy that is strong to the point of brittle. I want no flex; it
has to transmit vibration as close to 100% as possible.

Am I looking for a high Shore Hardness value? That's what Devcon uses in its
data sheets to specify hardness.

Is this something that I can achieve by changing the mix of the 2 parts? If
so, what do I lose if I use more hardener?

Any personal experiences with epoxies that you found to be harder than
others?

Thanks.
FBt

 

[Al]

On Thu, 20 Mar 2008 21:09:14 +0000, Esther & Fester Bestertester wrote:

See no n.g. for adhesives & epoxies, so if there's a better forum for
this, just point me to it.

I need an epoxy that is strong to the point of brittle. I want no flex;
it has to transmit vibration as close to 100% as possible.

Am I looking for a high Shore Hardness value? That's what Devcon uses in
its data sheets to specify hardness.

Is this something that I can achieve by changing the mix of the 2 parts?
If so, what do I lose if I use more hardener?

Any personal experiences with epoxies that you found to be harder than
others?

Thanks.
FBt

sci.materials is good.

Al

 

[Ross Herbert]

On Thu, 20 Mar 2008 21:09:14 GMT, Esther & Fester Bestertester <not@me.really>
wrote:

:See no n.g. for adhesives & epoxies, so if there's a better forum for this,
:just point me to it.
:
:I need an epoxy that is strong to the point of brittle. I want no flex; it
:has to transmit vibration as close to 100% as possible.
:
:Am I looking for a high Shore Hardness value? That's what Devcon uses in its
:data sheets to specify hardness.
:
:Is this something that I can achieve by changing the mix of the 2 parts? If
:so, what do I lose if I use more hardener?
:
:Any personal experiences with epoxies that you found to be harder than
thers?
:
:Thanks.
:FBt


Devcon specialise in making epoxy materials for repairs to machinery. For
example their Titanium Putty
http://www.devcon.com/techinfo/124.pdf is specified for repairs to machinery
where the repair requires a machined finish. This must be extremely hard
material when cured.

There are single component epoxies used in IC fabrication which have 94D
hardness ie. ME-430 http://emeigroup.com/pdf/EMHP%20Eng_3.pdf

 

[Tam]

"Esther & Fester Bestertester" <not@me.really> wrote in message
news:0001HW.C408208C00069F2AB01AD9AF@news.sf.sbcglobal.net...

See no n.g. for adhesives & epoxies, so if there's a better forum for
this,
just point me to it.

I need an epoxy that is strong to the point of brittle. I want no flex; it
has to transmit vibration as close to 100% as possible.

Am I looking for a high Shore Hardness value? That's what Devcon uses in
its
data sheets to specify hardness.

Is this something that I can achieve by changing the mix of the 2 parts?
If
so, what do I lose if I use more hardener?

Any personal experiences with epoxies that you found to be harder than
others?

Thanks.
FBt

If you have been letting it cure at room temperature, try about 15 minutes

at 160 F or so. It will get a lot harder.

Tam

 

On Thu, 20 Mar 2008 21:09:14 GMT, Esther & Fester Bestertester
<not@me.really> wrote:

See no n.g. for adhesives & epoxies, so if there's a better forum for this,
just point me to it.

I need an epoxy that is strong to the point of brittle. I want no flex; it
has to transmit vibration as close to 100% as possible.

Am I looking for a high Shore Hardness value? That's what Devcon uses in its
data sheets to specify hardness.

Is this something that I can achieve by changing the mix of the 2 parts? If
so, what do I lose if I use more hardener?

Any personal experiences with epoxies that you found to be harder than
others?

Thanks.
FBt

Dunno if it's tough enough but I use GR epoxy glue from Industrial
Formulations.
24 hour cure. (Sometimes a pita.)
Here in BC.
http://www.indform.com/
"We have an epoxy system for almost any project".
Really??

All I know is that GR epoxy has less flex than Lepage 2 page epoxy
(dual syringe) I got from the hardware store.


D from BC
British Columbia
Canada

 

On Thu, 20 Mar 2008 19:03:05 -0800, myrealaddress@comic.com wrote:

On Thu, 20 Mar 2008 21:09:14 GMT, Esther & Fester Bestertester
not@me.really> wrote:

See no n.g. for adhesives & epoxies, so if there's a better forum for this,
just point me to it.

I need an epoxy that is strong to the point of brittle. I want no flex; it
has to transmit vibration as close to 100% as possible.

Am I looking for a high Shore Hardness value? That's what Devcon uses in its
data sheets to specify hardness.

Is this something that I can achieve by changing the mix of the 2 parts? If
so, what do I lose if I use more hardener?

Any personal experiences with epoxies that you found to be harder than
others?

Thanks.
FBt

Dunno if it's tough enough but I use GR epoxy glue from Industrial
Formulations.
24 hour cure. (Sometimes a pita.)
Here in BC.
http://www.indform.com/
"We have an epoxy system for almost any project".
Really??

All I know is that GR epoxy has less flex than Lepage 2 page epoxy
(dual syringe) I got from the hardware store.


D from BC
British Columbia
Canada

Nothing to add.. Just checking my usenet client settings.
Ignore this part..


D from BC
British Columbia
Canada

 

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[Tim Williams]

"The Last Mimsy" <mimsy@TheOtherSideoftheLookingGlass.org> wrote in message
news:qlr5u3l692gqnhm4hnttvo0h9n9d7tqegj@4ax.com...

Which, would oddly meat your needs.

Don't let your meat loaf ;-)

Tim

--
Deep Fryer: A very philosophical monk.
Website @ http://webpages.charter.net/dawill/tmoranwms

 

[Bob F]

"Donna Ohl" <donna.ohl@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message news:4FhDj.65364

- How to unclog the bathtub where I can't figure out WHERE the filter is!
http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaohl/2279157295/

Ther's probably a passage in the valve plugged. Shut off all water to the
shower, and disassemble the valve, them flush it out by briefly turning the
water back on, with appropriate precautions.

 

[Esther & Fester Bestertes]

If you have been letting it cure at room temperature, try about 15 minutes
at 160 F or so. It will get a lot harder.

Tam

Does it matter when the heat is applied? Right away? Or after it seems to
have cured as much as it is going to at room temp?

 

[Esther & Fester Bestertes]

To those who offer help even to the misguided, thank you for the benefit of
your knowledge.

To those who offer directions to the appropriate forum, thanks for the
(index) finger.

FBtf

 

[Phil Hobbs]

Esther & Fester Bestertester wrote:

See no n.g. for adhesives & epoxies, so if there's a better forum for this,
just point me to it.

I need an epoxy that is strong to the point of brittle. I want no flex; it
has to transmit vibration as close to 100% as possible.

Am I looking for a high Shore Hardness value? That's what Devcon uses in its
data sheets to specify hardness.

Is this something that I can achieve by changing the mix of the 2 parts? If
so, what do I lose if I use more hardener?

Any personal experiences with epoxies that you found to be harder than
others?

Thanks.
FBt

sci.polymers or sci.materials might be a better bet. There are two
general ways you can make a given epoxy harder: bake it (an hour at 100C
does wonders) or put filler in it.

If you're bonding hard materials, you might want to use a glass bead
filler. When you squeeze the bondline down, the spheres contact the
surface, and as the epoxy shrinks (1% or so), it applies a preload to
the glass/substrate interfaces. That's a pretty stiff joint.

If you're trying to do something in shear, e.g. attach a strain gauge,
glue is not your friend at all. You might be better off using solder or
indium bonding or something like that.

Cheers,

Phil Hobbs