Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

When anybody ask me about what something is for, I tell them it's a
windshield wiper for a billygoat's a..

You should never spin a dry bearing.One dry spin can ruin that bearing,
and often does.
cuhulin

 

[Arfa Daily]

"Sam Goldwasser" <sam@plus.seas.upenn.edu> wrote in message
news:6wprtis8md.fsf@plus.seas.upenn.edu...

"James Sweet" <jamessweet@hotmail.com> writes:

"jimhigh66" <mounthighly@aol.com> wrote in message
news:9ae402edf9c7ca7f61c7640fb6e42060@localhost.talkaboutelectronicequipment.com...
I have a Panasonic model PV-V4522 that has power supply damage -- screen
indicates there's some AC in the unit where there should be DC. A
power
supply 82Mfd/200V capacitor has a swelled end and I suspect that part
but
before I disassemble the unit to possibly replace that I'd like to look
for other possible problems by checking some voltages if I knew what
they
should be and where to measure. Help would be appreciated. Tnx Jim

If you don't know where to measure, and what voltages to expect in a switch
mode power supply such as this, then I honestly don't recommend that you
try. I don't say this out of any desire to berate your skills or experience,
but trust me when I tell you that this type of power supply is EXTREMELY
dangerous to people not very experienced in how they work, and very savvy as
to what goes wrong with them. Apart from the fact that it has the ability to
kill you - literally - one slip of the meter probe can spell instant death
to many components on the primary side of the supply. The cap that is
bulging is likely, by its value and voltage rating, to be on the primary
side of the supply, and any voltage measurements here have to be taken with
the negative side of the line power rectifier bridge, as the 'ground'
reference for your meter, so you're on dangerous territory right from the
off. To begin to be anything like safe when working on switchers, you need
at least a bench isolation transformer.

As James said, if the cap is bulging, it's bad, and it was likely a sag
rather than a surge that led to the supply stopping for exactly the reasons
given. The advice to just change this cap is well given, and will most
likely result in a fix. As Sam suggested also, a repair kit is a good route
to go down, but if you do finish up changing multiple caps from a kit, do
them one at a time, and double check the value and polarity of each
replacement before soldering it in. The slightest error will at best result
in the supply just not working, and at worst, a cascade failure with
fireworks that Disney would be proud of ... !!

Arfa

 

[msg]

James Sweet wrote:

"msg" <msg@_cybertheque.org_> wrote in message
news:13ui7f3jlplcp77@corp.supernews.com...

PeterD wrote:


On Tue, 25 Mar 2008 14:47:09 -0000, "N Cook" <diverse8@gazeta.pl
wrote:



Just as I was blowing out, with a 1KW Martindale, the crud of ages from
an
amp and its fans.
Thought - these fans act as DC generators if blown forcefully. Presumably
you could damage, if driving negative volts into ps or fan contol
circuit.
Next time I will jam something in the blades before zapping one with 1KW
of
draught.


All the fans I've seen were 'brushless' AC polyphase with protection
to the driver board (inside the fan) to prevent damage.

snip
Older DC Muffin Fans use DC permanent magnet motors, you can feel magnetic
detents as you rotate the blades.



They all have permanent magnet motors, but they're brushless. You can feel
detents on those too.

Indeed this is true for modern versions, but DC Muffin fans from the 1960s
had brushes (electronic comutation would have been large and of prohibitive
expense).

Michael

 

[James Sweet]

Indeed this is true for modern versions, but DC Muffin fans from the 1960s
had brushes (electronic comutation would have been large and of
prohibitive
expense).

They had DC muffin fans in the 60s? I don't recall ever seeing one, what
were they used in? I've seen AC muffin fans powered by shaded pole motors,
and a few DC fans that were just a fan blade stuck on the end of a little DC
motor, but I've never come across one I'd call a muffin fan.

 

[Jim Yanik]

msg <msg@_cybertheque.org_> wrote in
news:13ujf1b4881r487@corp.supernews.com:

James Sweet wrote:

Indeed this is true for modern versions, but DC Muffin fans from the
1960s had brushes (electronic comutation would have been large and of
prohibitive
expense).




They had DC muffin fans in the 60s? I don't recall ever seeing one,
what were they used in? I've seen AC muffin fans powered by shaded
pole motors, and a few DC fans that were just a fan blade stuck on
the end of a little DC motor, but I've never come across one I'd call
a muffin fan.



I knew you'd ask My recollections are from govt. contract gear
that used 24 or 28 VDC fans. These may not have been "Muffin" brand
fans but I am unable to inspect one any more as the gear is long gone.
Anyone else with these recollections?

One remarkable fan that I wish I still had was the 400 Hz "Minicube"
blower; about one inch on a side, it could easily levitate or blow
itself off of the bench under power. These were used on F111A
avionics boards (and no doubt other platforms as well)

Michael

I salvaged and ratholed some 12V fans from PC power supplies,and after
Hurricane Charlie knocked out power,I used two of them with a 12V/20 A-H
SLA battery to give me some quiet air circulation at night so I could sleep
in the 90+ deg temps. It was just enough to make me comfortable.
I also had a 8-AA cell 12v fluorescent lamp that I made an ext.power cable
to connect to a 12v SLA or car battery for lighting.

I was without power for 7 days.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

 

[msg]

James Sweet wrote:

Indeed this is true for modern versions, but DC Muffin fans from the 1960s
had brushes (electronic comutation would have been large and of
prohibitive
expense).




They had DC muffin fans in the 60s? I don't recall ever seeing one, what
were they used in? I've seen AC muffin fans powered by shaded pole motors,
and a few DC fans that were just a fan blade stuck on the end of a little DC
motor, but I've never come across one I'd call a muffin fan.

I knew you'd ask My recollections are from govt. contract gear that used
24 or 28 VDC fans. These may not have been "Muffin" brand fans but I am unable
to inspect one any more as the gear is long gone. Anyone else with these
recollections?

One remarkable fan that I wish I still had was the 400 Hz "Minicube" blower;
about one inch on a side, it could easily levitate or blow itself off of
the bench under power. These were used on F111A avionics boards (and no
doubt other platforms as well)

Michael

 

[Donna Ohl, Grady Voluntee]

The tube must terminate no more than 6 inches from the floor or be directed
to the exterior of the home.

Notice this one says six to twelve inches above the floor:
http://www.factsfacts.com/MyHomeRepair/PressureRelief.htm

And, again, note the restrictions on the materials.

The discharge tube overflow pipe "must be made of a material that's rated
for both high temperature and pressure. This includes most rigid wall
copper, iron and, in most places, chlorinated polyvinylchloride (CPVC
plastic not regular PVC) pipe. The pipe size must match the opening size
of the TPR valve discharge (usually ž inch). It must terminate 6"-12"
above the floor, and the end cannot be threaded or have a fitting which
permits connecting a plug or cap."

 

[Donna Ohl, Grady Voluntee]

On Mon, 18 Feb 2008 12:08:17 -0800 (PST), hallerb@aol.com wrote:

new plastic [pipe and fitting will repace the drain line easily.......
no biggie

This implies we can't use plastic for the discharge tube:
http://www.usinspect.com/WaterHeaters/HWaterTPRVDischargeTube.asp

Here's what it says ... (catch that last counter-intuitive line!)...
Donna

A discharge tube is a tube or pipe that is attached to the TPR valve that
directs the superheated water down to the floor and away from anyone in the
discharge area to prevent scalding or burning.

The pipe itself must be made of a material that is rated for both high
temperature and pressure, which includes most rigid wall copper or iron.
Also, the size of the pipe must match the opening size of the TPR valve
discharge (usually ž inch).

The tube must terminate no more than 6 inches from the floor or be directed
to the exterior of the home.

If the discharge tube is routed to the exterior, the pipe must discharge 6
to 24 inches from grade, with a downward slope to prevent the pipe from
clogging or forming a trap. Blocked discharge tubes will prevent the
superheated water from discharging and will burst.

Though counterintuitive, it is often recommended that the discharge tube
terminate next to the water heater so that any malfunction of the water
heater will be more readily noticed.

 

[Edwin Pawlowski]

"Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator" <donna.ohl@sbcglobal.net> wrote in
message

It seems like an easy job for the piping under the crawl space.

But it seems difficult for the piping hidden in the wall.
(Do we have to rip the walls apart?)

And the pipes under the driveway to the main water meter.
(Do we have to break open the driveway?)

Is replacing the galvanized pipes with copper a do-it-yourself job Billa
nd
I can do together?

Donna

The problem with copper is getting it trough wall. Pex, OTOH, is much
easier to get through and with the proper tools, easier to work with.

There are ways of getting under the driveway, but you'd have to either rent
the equipment or call a plumber for that portion. Check what was used for
the main. Many years ago (mostly in the 1940's) lead pipe was common.

 

[Edwin Pawlowski]

"Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator" <donna.ohl@sbcglobal.net> wrote in
message

KEY QUESTION: Would a plumber have done it differently? How?

Plumber would have used some copper fittings and soldered the joints. He
can get exactly what is needed that way.

 

[Michael A. Terrell]

msg wrote:

James Sweet wrote:

Indeed this is true for modern versions, but DC Muffin fans from the 1960s
had brushes (electronic comutation would have been large and of
prohibitive
expense).




They had DC muffin fans in the 60s? I don't recall ever seeing one, what
were they used in? I've seen AC muffin fans powered by shaded pole motors,
and a few DC fans that were just a fan blade stuck on the end of a little DC
motor, but I've never come across one I'd call a muffin fan.



I knew you'd ask My recollections are from govt. contract gear that used
24 or 28 VDC fans. These may not have been "Muffin" brand fans but I am unable
to inspect one any more as the gear is long gone. Anyone else with these
recollections?

I had one out of a military radio or test set that was 24 VDC. It was
about 1.5" square, and about 2.75" deep. It was a regular brush motor,
about the size of the early dust buster with a regular fan blade.

One remarkable fan that I wish I still had was the 400 Hz "Minicube" blower;
about one inch on a side, it could easily levitate or blow itself off of
the bench under power. These were used on F111A avionics boards (and no
doubt other platforms as well)

The GRC-106 used them, too. I had a handful of ones pulled for noisy
bearings at the CE plant where we built the 106.


--
aioe.org is home to cowards and terrorists

Add this line to your news proxy nfilter.dat file
* drop Path:*aioe.org!not-for-mail to drop all aioe.org traffic.

http://improve-usenet.org/index.html

 

[HapticZ]

Loctite Corp also has a slew of stuff .


<stratus46@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:f690642e-fe9b-48f9-a9cc-1c1f887901fb@e23g2000prf.googlegroups.com...
On Mar 22, 9:49 pm, Esther & Fester Bestertester <n...@me.really>
wrote:

The other thing to consider is the mass of the sensor, the
flexibility
of the adhesive and the resulting natural frequency of the sensor
assembly. A massive sensor and/or flexible coupling will result
in a
lower frequency and result in attenuation of signals above that
point.

The "flexible coupling" provided by the epoxies I've tried is
causing issues.

It's been suggested that I try silver-filled epoxy and potting
compound.
Dental cement was also a suggestion. I'm looking at all of these.

FBt

Devcon Plastic Welder or Stabilit Express are methacrylates that are
much harder and stronger than the hardware store epoxies and cheap
enough to try.

http://www.hobby-lobby.com/adhesive.htm

http://www.ellsworth.com/plastic_welder.html

GG

 

[msg]

Jim Yanik wrote:

<snip>

I salvaged and ratholed some 12V fans from PC power supplies,and after
Hurricane Charlie knocked out power,I used two of them with a 12V/20 A-H
SLA battery to give me some quiet air circulation at night so I could sleep
in the 90+ deg temps. It was just enough to make me comfortable.
I also had a 8-AA cell 12v fluorescent lamp that I made an ext.power cable
to connect to a 12v SLA or car battery for lighting.

When I lost power some many years ago, I got six 200 AH deep cycle 12V
marine batteries (factory cosmetic seconds) to power a Sola 2.5KVA UPS
which I wired into the breaker panel, first disconnecting the utility
service. To charge the batteries I mated a 10 HP Briggs horiz. shaft
engine to an old military DC generator set; it's duty cycle was governed
by the batteries' specific gravity. The power was cleaner than what
I normally had and the UPS was continuous duty rated

Michael

 

Deep cycle batteries are not suppose to be drained more than half way
down.More than that shortens the life span of those batteries.
cuhulin

 

[Bob F]

<hallerb@aol.com> wrote in message
news:23b02469-332b-489a-ab78-105b14354ee1@e39g2000hsf.googlegroups.com...
On Mar 21, 1:07?am, "Bob F" <bobnos...@gmail.com> wrote:

"Donna Ohl" <donna....@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message news:4FhDj.65364
- How to unclog the bathtub where I can't figure out WHERE the filter is!
http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaohl/2279157295/

Ther's probably a passage in the valve plugged. Shut off all water to the
shower, and disassemble the valve, them flush it out by briefly turning the
water back on, with appropriate precautions.

if you try this dont use the main houses valve, i did once it wouldnt
shut off and flooded the basement by the time the water company got
things turned off.......

**********************************************************

You could test it first.

 

[Edwin Pawlowski]

"Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator" <donna.ohl@sbcglobal.net> wrote in
message

Looking at the nicely packaged yellow gas lines, we asked EVERYONE in the
stores if we should replace and they all (multiple stores) said nobody
replaces the gas line. They said leave it so we don't introduce a leak.

The problem with asking at the store is the average worker there knows very
little. Flex lines used to be against code in some places, then there were
required for earthquake prone locations. A call to the gas inspector will
clarify what you need. Water heaters are better than dryers, but years of
constant flex and vibration can cause cracks in the joiunts of flex lines.


>

 

[Arfa Daily]

<cuhulin@webtv.net> wrote in message
news:414-47E9E339-1656@storefull-3253.bay.webtv.net...

Deep cycle batteries are not suppose to be drained more than half way
down.More than that shortens the life span of those batteries.
cuhulin

That rather depends on the construction of the plates in the battery, which
determine whether or not it is a genuine deep cycle battery, which is good
to 20%, or a sponge plated hybrid which is labelled "deep cycle", but is
only good, as you say, to 50% if you want a long life. Genuine marine
quality deep cycle batteries, as Michael suggested he was using, should be
of the former variety. The latter tend to be general leisure batteries, as
far as I know.

Arfa

 

[jimhigh66]

Tnx all. The surge was a overvoltage surge (I had several wall
transformers burn-out on other equipment). Tnx for the warnings -- I do
have a bench isolation transformer. I may just try replacing the 82 ufd
capacitor and see if that fixes it. If not it can be added to the pile of
defective VCRs (I've never had one that lasted even with limited use! ) and
I'll try to find a like-new replacement (I'd really like to advoid the
combination units). Jim H.

--
Message posted using http://www.talkaboutelectronicequipment.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/
More information at http://www.talkaboutelectronicequipment.com/faq.html

 

On 3ÔÂ26ČŐ, ĎÂÎç9Ęą15ˇÖ, john24242442 <johnsomervi....@talktalk.net> wrote:

I currently own and sell an ebookwww.wiiwillrockyou.biz
I need someone to write a weekly update on advanced methods of Wii
repair.
Genuine engineers pleaes email me at i...@wiiwillrockyou.biz

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On 3ÔÂ26ČŐ, ÉĎÎç1Ęą35ˇÖ, "jimhigh66" <mounthig...@aol.com> wrote:

I have a Panasonic model PV-V4522 that has power supply damage -- screen
indicates there's some AC in the unit where there should be DC. A power
supply 82Mfd/200V capacitor has a swelled end and I suspect that part but
before I disassemble the unit to possibly replace that I'd like to look
for other possible problems by checking some voltages if I knew what they
should be and where to measure. Help would be appreciated. Tnx Jim

--
Message posted usinghttp://www.talkaboutelectronicequipment.com/group/sci.electronics.rep...
More information athttp://www.talkaboutelectronicequipment.com/faq.html

Do you want access to China's massive pool of electronic
manufacturers... but lack the time to contact suppliers, negotiate
contracts, arrange shipping or monitor product quality? Don't worry -
Let seriouswholesale deal with all that for you.

*Check out the huge range of Gadgets, MP3 / MP4 Players, Car DVD /
Audio, and Computer Accessories now by visiting the online wholesale
catalog at seriouswholesale. com You'll have peace of mind thanks to
the seriouswholesale Quality Control, 12-month Warranty on all
products, and easy secure payment by credit card through Paypal.

Selling on eBay or your own online store? Send products direct from
our warehouse to your customers using our unique drop-shipping
service. You can profit by selling hundreds of different products,
without holding any of your own inventory! Any questions you have will
be answered by the seriouswholesale English-speaking customer support
team... Their aim is to make your China electronics importing business
easier to run than ever before.

Welcome to http://www.seriouswholesale.com.

seriouswholesale - Buy from the source, profit without the hassle.

- 12 Months Warranty - No minimum order restrictions - Drop-shipping
with no additional fee - Pay by safely by PayPal seriouswholesale
Wholesale Co., Ltd.: Chinas original and best online electronics
wholesaler & drop-shipper: seriouswholesale. com