Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[dan]

On Dec 3, 9:20 pm, tonym...@gmail.com wrote:

While scraping together enough parts to satisfy the DigiKey $25 order
threshold (sans $5 service charge), I decided to open up my2465Band
see which electrolytic caps were in the PS section (which appears to
be soft, as I previously posted). I was able to track down
replacements for most of them, but I'm stumped on three other types.
Two of them are 672D series, the other 39D. All three appear to have
United Chemi-Con logos. More specifically:

1. 672D150 - 250uF, 20V, 105C
2. 672D? - 180uF, 40V, 105C
3. 39DX1314 - 290uF, 200V

Both the 672D and 39D were Sprague series, but I'm not sure if they
were the same as these UCC caps. Neither Vishay/Sprague nor UCC have
any information about either series on their websites (Vishay has a
U673D series, presumably a lead-free version of the 672D, except that
they are all radials, whereas at least one of the 672Ds in the scope
is an axial). I googled six ways from Sunday and came up empty,
though I found a cross-reference on the Illinois Capacitor site (672D -> RZS if radial, TMA if axial), and worked backwards to UCC series RZ

(radial) or KME-T (axial), Nichicon PZ (radial), and Panasonic NME
(axial). Of course these last four may have worse specs than the
Illinois caps and perhaps the 672D as well. An actual spec for the
original caps would settle the matter, but I can't locate that
either. Any other suggestions for determining what cap(s) would be
suitable replacements? Just get the lowest-ESR, highest ripple 105C
axial that will fit? One more thing - none of those three capacitance
values are available in the axials I found; closest are 330uF and
220uF. How critical are the values in the 2465s supplies?

Thanks,
TM

Hi Tim, I fix these all the time. The 330uf is what I prefer to use
@50vdc for all the 220uf caps (actually 35vdc will work). Be sure
they are 105c or they will not last. Change all the 220uf caps and
the 100uf closer to the transformer. You can actually swap the 100uf
caps if they are not bad. The one I am talking about gets a lot of
stress because it series couples the -15 to make the -8 unreg. The
other one is just a filter and never fails. The rest of the caps do
not fail often. europa2fish@gmail.com

 

Free PORN Videos and Pictures updated daily!

http://searchfu.info/7/free-adult-video.html

67 porn categories:Amateurs, Celebrities, Anal, Asian, BBW, BDSM,
Black, Foot Fetish, Gay, Group, Hairy, Hardcore, Lesbians, Mature,
Teens, Latina, Toys, Pornstars, Cartoons, Amateur WebCam Movies &
more,

sex blog, live cams, xxx adult dating and tons of downloadable porn
pics and movies.

F

R

E

E

..

P

O

R

N

..

V

I

D

E

O

..

c

l

i

c

k

..

H

E

R

E

http://searchfu.info/7/free-adult-video.html

 

On Feb 17, 12:02 am, "Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator"
<donna....@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

On Wed, 13 Feb 2008 15:10:03 -0800 (PST), hall...@aol.com wrote:
add be prepared to replace drain valve, which may not shut or drip
when closed, espically the plastic ones. some valves will clog replace
tank drain valve with a ball valve at new tank install time

Thank you for all the advice!
You've given us the courage to tackle this ourselves!
Bill and I read *every* post here!

To replace our dripping 40-gallon (65-gallon FHR) home water heater, we
bought the best water heater I could find.

This turned out to be the $450 Sears #33154 (actually manufactured by AO
Smith) 97-gallon First Hour Rating (FHR) and 0.63 Energy Factor (EF),
nominally with a 50-gallon tank and coming with a (rather useless) 12-year
warranty on parts and a slightly useful 1-year warranty on labor.

I don't know why you continue to dismiss a 12 year warranty on the
water heater as useless. You seem to be saying that because that is
about the typical life of a water heater, that the warranty is of no
value. Yet you value a 1 year warranty on labor? No manufacturer is
ever going to give you a warranty for longer than the typical life of
the item. Do auto manufacturers give you a 150,000 mile warranty on
a car? Just because the typical water heater lasts about 13 years
doesn't mean yours will. The biggest difference is in your water,
which can vary greatly. In some areas, tanks frequently fail in only
8 years. And I'd rather have a warranty that is going to cover the
unit itself, regardless of who pays for the labor. Since you're
installing it yourself, there is no labor anyway, so why is that even
an issue?

I have a State water heater. A few years ago, the thermocouple went
when it was maybe 4 years old. I called them up and I had one here
in 2 days, no questions asked. Didn't cost me a cent, not even
shipping. Now the thermocouple is only a $15 part, but it could have
been the valve assembly which is probably 6X or the tank which would
have been $350.

Now, how much extra you may want to pay for a longer warranty is open
to debate. But I don't get how you can dismiss a 12 year warranty on
the unit as nearly useless.

 

[Eeyore]

amandeepsinghvirk5@gmail.com wrote:

Happy New Year

Damn spammers never miss an oppourunity do they ?

 

[CJT]

muzician21@yahoo.com wrote:

I see you can get low-res TV's, Hi-Def TV's, and VCR/DVD combos at the
local Big Box Marts with digital receivers built in. In fact, they no
longer sell analog only TV's.

1. Do the digital receivers all function the same way or are there
different features/functions to be aware of? Any receiver brands that
are clearly better than others?

2. Is there any "next big thing" on the horizon that will make them
obsolete and useless or is the current digital broadcast standard
going to be in place until the sun burns out?

3. Assuming many of the VCR/DVD combos are cheap POS units, is it
possible/practical to cannibalize the digital tuner from them?

I think there are some "cable-only" tuners that won't pick up OTA.

--
The e-mail address in our reply-to line is reversed in an attempt to
minimize spam. Our true address is of the form che...@prodigy.net.

 

[JXStern]

On Wed, 2 Jan 2008 19:58:16 -0800 (PST), muzician21@yahoo.com wrote:

I see you can get low-res TV's, Hi-Def TV's, and VCR/DVD combos at the
local Big Box Marts with digital receivers built in. In fact, they no
longer sell analog only TV's.

1. Do the digital receivers all function the same way or are there
different features/functions to be aware of? Any receiver brands that
are clearly better than others?

Dunno. There's probably only two or three options for the core chips,
but there can still be variations in the quality of the rest of the
unit. I've seen virtually no discussion of any such issues.

2. Is there any "next big thing" on the horizon that will make them
obsolete and useless or is the current digital broadcast standard
going to be in place until the sun burns out?

No, and no.

Likely Internet download will change everything within five or ten
years. Actually, if you like pirated stuff, it's already changing
everything.

3. Assuming many of the VCR/DVD combos are cheap POS units, is it
possible/practical to cannibalize the digital tuner from them?

Why?

The cheapo-converter boxes will hit the streets shortly for about $60,
and you get a $40 coupon from the government. You can buy tuners to
jam in a PC for under $100. Just what do you have in mind?

J.

 

[William Sommerwerck]

1. Do the digital receivers all function the same way or are there
different features/functions to be aware of? Any receiver brands
that are clearly better than others?

When you say "digital receiver", I can't help but think of an audio
component. You mean a "TV set", I assume.

Most sets can display any format (720p, 1080i, 1080p). However, the
less-expensive sets have a native resolution of only 720p, and convert 1080
inputs to 720p.

To avoid obsolescence, your set should be able handle 1080p natively, and be
able to display 24fps directly, without conversion.

Sony seems to have the best LCD sets, Pioneer and Panasonic the best plasma
sets. Look at Consumer Reports, the on-line reviews, and various magazine
reviews. One of the magazines (I forget which) had a detailed study of
whether particular sets properly supported deinterlacing, upconversion, and
so forth.

2. Is there any "next big thing" on the horizon that will make them
obsolete and useless or is the current digital broadcast standard
going to be in place until the sun burns out?

The Japanese are working on video systems with twice the horizontal and
vertical resolution of the current standards. It will be many years before
they come to market -- if at all. Note the relative "failure" of SACD/DVD-A
and Blu-ray/HD DVD. People are generally happy with what they already have.
It takes time for the public to "digest" technological advances and desire
something better.

The current NTSC standard has been around 60 years and -- used well -- can
still produce excellent image quality. It's likely the current HD standard
will be around at least 20 years, and likely longer.

As for the specific flat-panel technology, there are two display
technologies that might conceivably displace LCD and plasma. Organic
light-emitting diodes (OLEDs) have appeared in a few consumer products
(cameras and cell phones), but don't seem to be making progress in TV. The
surface electron-emission display (SED) was predicted to outperform plasma,
but is currently tied up in patent-licensing squabbles, and appears (at the
moment) never to get to market.

If you buy a high-quality LCD or plasma set, it's unlikely its visible
performance will be greatly exceeded in the near future. If you're really
worried about obsolescence, buy one of the less-expensive Vizios. Though not
of the highest quality, they're good, and cheap enough that you can toss
them in a few years.

 

[Tom Duwe]

"William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:kv2dna6JcfAnU-HanZ2dnUVZ_uuqnZ2d@comcast.com...

1. Do the digital receivers all function the same way or are there
different features/functions to be aware of? Any receiver brands
that are clearly better than others?

When you say "digital receiver", I can't help but think of an audio
component. You mean a "TV set", I assume.

<excellent reply snipped>

William, would you mind telling us which of the cross-posted groups you were
reading when you replied? If not a.t.t.hdtv, perhaps there is another group
for me to subscribe to.

--
Tom in Bristol - (disregard dangling participle!)

 

[~consul]

and thus miso@sushi.com inscribed ...

On Jan 2, 7:58 pm, muzicia...@yahoo.com wrote:
3. Assuming many of the VCR/DVD combos are cheap POS units, is it
possible/practical to cannibalize the digital tuner from them?
You can get digital tuners on the surplus market (ebay),. A friend has
a Samsung that had HDMI, but also can drive a standard PC monitor.

On my computer I use the Hauppauge USB HD tuner, it ran for about $75 last year, and it works great at pulling both HD and SD feeds. I use it on my computer which is also hooked up to my large LCD tv, so it's fine to watch.
--
"... respect, all good works are not done by only good folk. For here, at the end of all things, we shall do what needs to be done."
--till next time, Jameson Stalanthas Yu -x- <<poetry.dolphins-cove.com>>

 

[Michael Kennedy]

"Tom Duwe" <tomd88SPAMLESS@bvunet.net> wrote in message
news:1199371101_12639@sp6iad.superfeed.net...

"William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:kv2dna6JcfAnU-HanZ2dnUVZ_uuqnZ2d@comcast.com...
1. Do the digital receivers all function the same way or are there
different features/functions to be aware of? Any receiver brands
that are clearly better than others?

When you say "digital receiver", I can't help but think of an audio
component. You mean a "TV set", I assume.

excellent reply snipped

William, would you mind telling us which of the cross-posted groups you
were reading when you replied? If not a.t.t.hdtv, perhaps there is
another group for me to subscribe to.

--
Tom in Bristol - (disregard dangling participle!)

I'd guess sci.electronics.repair since I see him around here regularly.

 

[Donna Ohl, Grady Voluntee]

On Sun, 17 Feb 2008 10:52:25 -0600, Vic Smith wrote:

I've never used flex on a hot water heater, but suppose that flex
connectors have the di-electric insulator built in. Should be some
specs attached to that type of connector.

Hi Vic,

There is a black rubber grommet inside the copper flex tube's brass
fittings. Maybe that's the dialectric; but it's tremendously smaller than
the fist-sized dialectric unions we bought yesterday.

Donna

 

[Donna Ohl, Grady Voluntee]

On Sun, 17 Feb 2008 10:59:36 -0600, msg wrote:

odd that such detail would be accorded to a routine task.
Donna, what is your employment or educational background?

Hi msg,

I retired from a career in public-school teaching two years ago.

At one point, I taught very young autistic and aspergers children; we found
the best therapy for their social disability was to break down even the
most mundane of tasks into their every component.

By behavioral modification, the children could perform the behavior on
their own, outside the classroom.

This is much like what a software engineer does when writing routine or
complex software, is it not?

Donna

 

[msg]

cavedweller wrote:

On Feb 17, 12:07 am, "Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator"
donna....@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

<snip lengthy instructions and specifications>

Now we know why good old Bill travels...............

Interesting; it struck me as both encouraging that a female would have
an engineering orientation and also a bit odd that such detail would
be accorded to a routine task.

Just out of curiosity, Donna, what is your employment or educational
background?

Michael

 

[Vic Smith]

On Sun, 17 Feb 2008 08:30:34 -0700, "Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer
Coordinator" <donna.ohl@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

On Sun, 17 Feb 2008 07:26:23 -0600, Vic Smith wrote:
If your pipes are galvanized you don't need di-electric fittings.

Hi Vic Smith,
THIS IS MY BIGGEST CONFUSION!
I see only *some* of the hot water heater replacement guides saying to use
the di-electric fittings while others ignore it totally. Our existing
plumbing has galvanized connected to flex tubing connected to nipple on the
hot water heater.

Di-electrics are used when collecting copper to steel. Newer homes

usually have all copper. Di-electrics usually come into play when
replacing the main service (the bigger supply lines) from galvanized
to copper, but leaving the plumbing wall galvanized pipes in place.
You would use a di-electirc union between the copper and galvanized.
I've never used flex on a hot water heater, but suppose that flex
connectors have the di-electric insulator built in. Should be some
specs attached to that type of connector.

You may find some of the old pipes/fittings scaled up and need
replacing. Same with stop valves. This is the time to replace old
questionable stuff.

We agree. Strangely, the cold-water pipes are all full of crusty white
baking-soda like crud while the hot-water side seems relatively free of
scale. We're still replacing everything, including the old round green
twist gate valve, with newer better plumbing like the red lever ball valve.

The hot and cold pipes could be different ages, or the mineral content

could precipitate differently that what has been my experience, which
is the hot water scaling up much more.
I wouldn't use a ball valve as a stop valve. For long term use I
believe a typical globe or gate valve will prove more reliable.

--Vic

 

[Donna Ohl, Grady Voluntee]

On Sun, 17 Feb 2008 05:44:55 -0800 (PST), trader4@optonline.net wrote:

I don't know why you continue to dismiss a 12 year warranty on the
water heater as useless. You seem to be saying that because that is
about the typical life of a water heater, that the warranty is of no
value. Yet you value a 1 year warranty on labor?

Hi Trader,

Thanks for keeping up on this. Maybe I'm wrong on the warrantee but I took
logic in college and the warrantee seems like a useless marketing tool to
me when I read through what I have to do in order to "make good" on it.

It's hard for me to write this reply because I feel the warranty is only an
advertising gimmick which, to me, is only useful for the first year, mainly
because I'm never going to take the water heater apart and bring it to the
store to obtain the "free" replacement after the first year - and - the
alternative is to pay as much for the labor as the entire water heater cost
in the first place - so the "free" replacement costs just as much as the
original parts if I have a plumber come to me to inspect, diagnose, and
replace it. The warrantee seems absolutely useless to me, after the first
year given those realistic concerns.

Worse than that, I read the entire text of the Sears "12-year limited
warranty" which intimates Sears will replace parts that are defective and
the water heater itself *only* if it develops a leak (no other replacement
is warranted).

installing it yourself, there is no labor anyway,
so why is that even an issue?

This is the ENTIRE issue! If I have to remove the entire water heater in
order to bring it to the store just to see if they'll warrant the parts or
the leaking tank, that's absolutely crazy! Do people really remove their
water heater, truck it in the back of their car to the store, have someone
at the store look at it and decide whether or not to replace the parts,
then, if they decide not to, you truck it back home and re-install it? Or,
if they decide to replace the parts, they hand you the new parts and you
truck the whole drippy thing back home to re-install it? I think not.

If I need to make good on the warrantee, the only way I'll ever do it is to
call a Sears plumber at 800-469-4663 who will likely charge me as much for
the visit as the thing cost in the first place. Sure, I'll get a new water
heater - and it will cost me exactly what it cost when I bought it
considering I MUST use their labor. I have no choice this second time
around.

My whole point is the automobile analogy you provided is exactly opposite
of reality! You can easily DRIVE the car to the dealership to get a part
diagnosed and fixed but to drive your water heater to the Sears store would
be ludicrous (for me).

Do you see why the automobile analogy doesn't apply for a water heater?
Bringing the water heater to the dealer isn't an option.
To bring the dealer to the water heater costs as much as the water heater.
It's that simple to me.

Donna

 

[Sal M. Onella]

"Mr. Land" <graftonfot@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:a354fedb-c75b-4331-b6b1-8ad6115eabc1@l1g2000hsa.googlegroups.com...

< snip >

I'm not well-versed in typical digital tuner design, but I would
venture a guess that, since the digital channels are carried by
traditional UHF channels, that the first thing an antenna signal
encounters after it enters a digital tuner is an RF amplifier stage
(an analog amplifier.)

If I'm right, then I would further guess that some 1st stage RF amp
designs will be better than others in terms of gain, noise, etc.

I haven't investigated to see if manufacturers quote numbers like
these in their specs, but that'd be the first thing I'd want to
compare if I were choosing between different tuners.

All this assumes you'd be using an antenna for your source, as opposed
to cable/satellite/fiber/whatever.

The relevant tuner spec is "noise figure" or NF. It is expressed in
decibels, the lower the better. In the receivers, I haven't seen the spec
much myself, but the mast-mounted preamplifiers practically always quote it.

If you have strong local signals, a poor NF isn't going to hurt you much.
If you use a low-noise preamp it will establish the system NF adn overcome a
poor receiver noise figure. Warning: some low-noise preamps can be
overloaded by strong local signals. Sorry ... there is no one, perfect
situation.

 

[Gordon Burditt]

1. Do the digital receivers all function the same way or are there
different features/functions to be aware of? Any receiver brands
that are clearly better than others?

When you say "digital receiver", I can't help but think of an audio
component. You mean a "TV set", I assume.

My understanding of the term is that a "digital receiver" is a
digital TV *tuner*. It doesn't (or at least might not) include a
monitor. It takes a video signal (ATSC, cable, or satellite, or
some combination of them) and converts it into something a TV set
or DVR can accept (S-Video, component video, DVI, HDMI, etc.) It
might be able to downconvert (so an old analog TV set can display
HD signals, although with less resolution) or upconvert.

I would not expect an audio digital receiver to include speakers.

 

[Donna Ohl, Grady Voluntee]

On Sun, 17 Feb 2008 12:33:51 GMT, Edwin Pawlowski wrote:

No need to turn both off if the valves work, but can't hurt.

Hi Edwin,

Wow. You're good. You caught a bunch of nuances that I will both modify to
improve (and repost when the job's done) and a few I'll explain better.

In this case, as per advice here, Bill will be removing the existing
twisty-knob cold-water valve to because I asked him to replace that round
green "gate" valve with a red-lever-twist ball valve.

- Open all hot-water faucets in the house to drain off pressure
One low valve will drain off the pressure in seconds.

Oh. OK. I was confused. I'll modify that. Some of the tutorials I read said
to open just one hot-water faucet while others said to open them all. I was
confused. I'll modify the tutorial so others following us benefit.

- Wait two hours, if possible, to allow the hot water in the tank to cool

Turn the gas off the night before. Alternately, turnt he gas off, run the
hot water to dilute what is in there a bit, then drain.

Good point. Actually, we take a long hot shower every morning and Bill has
been gone a while, so, we really wanted to take that last steaming hot
shower on the old tank so that's why I said it that way. It *is* a great
idea to bleed off the hot water so as to dilute the tank so that will be
added to the tutorial.

- Disconnect garden hose and close drain valve when done
It won't drain unless you allow air to get in.
Disconnect the top lines, then drain.

Good point. I realized I mixed the standard-maintenance drain procedure
with the removal procedure. For a maintenance drain, we'd open a hot-water
faucet. For a removal and replacement, we can disconnect the lines. Good
point. I will modify the tutorial so we all benefit.

- Separate the vent pipe from the draft hood
In your parts list I did not see anything for the vent hood that will be 5"
shorter. Can you just cut the existing flue pipe?

Very astute Edwin. The Sears guy, when showed pictures of what we had with
yardsticks taped in place said we could just tin snip or hack saw the
existing 3 inch vent pipe a few inches shorter. This will be the biggest
'modification' that we'll have to do to accomodatge the hugely larger
heater. The Sears salesman said it was so much larger because of all the
insulation. He even said we don't need any blanket as it wouldn't add any R
value, he said.

- Remove all gas plumbing up to and including the old shut-off valve
Why? I didn't see any gas fittings on the parts list.

Wow Edwin. You are very observant. After speaking to the Sears guy, we
tried to find a gas line that had an integrated on-off valve like the one
we have and we couldn't find any of them in his yellow hose collection. He
said the gas line doesn't corrode and our pictures we showed him show it to
be in good shape so we figured we'd keep the existing gas line. For the
tutorial, I did a "do as I say not as I do" but you caught me in my parts
list! Very clever!

Should I remove this part from the tutorial?
Does nobody replace the gas lines? (we're not going to).

- Open all the hot-water faucets in the house to bleed out air
I'd leave them closed all along the way, save for one.

OK. I'll modify the hot water heater replacement how to.

Thanks for your astute advice - I'm happily surprised that others pay as
much attention to detail as I do in my home water heater replacement
tutorial!

Donna

 

[Udo Piechottka]

N Cook schrieb:

Looks like another victim of lead-free solder in the power handling areas.

Reason for posting - idle curiosity. I'm not going to unnecessarily delve
into the keyboard section to find out.
I was surprised to see just an 8 way ribbon cable going to an 88 key, 7+
octave keyboard.
I assume there is active multiplexing hidden in there , but would there be
"touchy-feely" action monitoring as well.?

Why not? I assume you'll find a keyboard processor and 2 contact bars to
measure the time/velocity of each key, possibly divides into 8- or
12-key groups.

Udo

 

[N Cook]

Udo Piechottka <ifmd.messdatensysteme@t-online.de> wrote in message
news:fltfpl$vi0$00$1@news.t-online.com...

N Cook schrieb:
Looks like another victim of lead-free solder in the power handling
areas.

Reason for posting - idle curiosity. I'm not going to unnecessarily
delve
into the keyboard section to find out.
I was surprised to see just an 8 way ribbon cable going to an 88 key, 7+
octave keyboard.
I assume there is active multiplexing hidden in there , but would there
be
"touchy-feely" action monitoring as well.?

Why not? I assume you'll find a keyboard processor and 2 contact bars to
measure the time/velocity of each key, possibly divides into 8- or
12-key groups.

Udo

All I can see is the counterbalance rods and leaf springs per key, including
shining a torch down the length of the rear of the key bank. I suppose the
bank of counterweights (hence weight of that whole section) compared to
return springs means that touch force can be more evenly inferred from
timing intervals per key press.

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/