Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

On Feb 16, 7:13�am, Nate Nagel <njna...@roosters.net> wrote:
Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator wrote:





On Wed, 13 Feb 2008 19:33:41 GMT, Bob Shuman wrote:

If you pay someone to install, then warranty may not be as important,

I've learned that I agree with you.
The warranty is for the fire-and-forget type of homeowner.
The one who doesn't flush twice yearly, who doesn't add the second anode,
who doesn't replace the anode after a few years, who doesn't add the ball
valve, etc.

Even then, the owner with the warranty has to bring the soaking wet heater
in the back of their car in to the manufacturer after their 1-year is up on
their supposed 12-year warranty - or else pay as much for the plumber to
visit ($400) as the heater cost in the first place ($400) to obtain the
'free' heater.

Some deal, that 12-year warranty!

Or am I reading it wrong?

You're pretty much right, although you still might find that within a
particular model line there are some quality/efficiency/construction
differences between the 6-year and 12-year models. �you'll have to
evaluate those on a case by case basis though.

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.http://members.cox.net/njnagel- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -
more expensive heater tend to have better materials, like brass drain
valves rater than plastic ones. plastics only job is to drain once at
end of life.. helped a buddy his plastic valves stem snapped off
trying to open it.....

we pushed the heater over on its side, and drained thru the fill lines
and T&P valve

a full 50 gallon tank is heavy,,,,,

400 pounds of water and at least a couple hundred for tank
 
"Dave Plowman (News)" <dave@davenoise.co.uk> wrote in message
news:4f535b8d7adave@davenoise.co.uk...
Did you see that the Maplin Barebone PVR is now down to 49.99? Got one for
an elderly neighbour and installed it. Had an HD lying around. Not a bad
bit of kit for the money. It came without any instructions or paperwork of
any kind - and the other one in the shop was the same. But managed to suss
most of it out.

OK, Plowie - seein's as how you're gobbing me off in s.e.r. let's show them
how you ping *me* when I try to distance myself from 'audio usenet'....

Fucking creep...


--
*Keep honking...I'm reloading.

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
 
In article <7-adnZIX27h18w_aRVnyjwA@pipex.net>,
Keith G <keith_g@dsl.pipex.com> wrote:
"Dave Plowman (News)" <dave@davenoise.co.uk> wrote in message
news:4f535b8d7adave@davenoise.co.uk...
Did you see that the Maplin Barebone PVR is now down to 49.99? Got one
for an elderly neighbour and installed it. Had an HD lying around. Not
a bad bit of kit for the money. It came without any instructions or
paperwork of any kind - and the other one in the shop was the same.
But managed to suss most of it out.

OK, Plowie - seein's as how you're gobbing me off in s.e.r. let's show
them how you ping *me* when I try to distance myself from 'audio
usenet'....
Seek treatment.

Fucking creep...
But a polite one.

--
*Save a tree, eat a beaver*

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
 
"Dave Plowman (News)" <dave@davenoise.co.uk> wrote in message
news:4f63d5750adave@davenoise.co.uk...
In article <7-adnZIX27h18w_aRVnyjwA@pipex.net>,
Keith G <keith_g@dsl.pipex.com> wrote:
"Dave Plowman (News)" <dave@davenoise.co.uk> wrote in message
news:4f535b8d7adave@davenoise.co.uk...
Did you see that the Maplin Barebone PVR is now down to 49.99? Got one
for an elderly neighbour and installed it. Had an HD lying around. Not
a bad bit of kit for the money. It came without any instructions or
paperwork of any kind - and the other one in the shop was the same.
But managed to suss most of it out.


OK, Plowie - seein's as how you're gobbing me off in s.e.r. let's show
them how you ping *me* when I try to distance myself from 'audio
usenet'....

Seek treatment.

Never mind your 'ukra' weasel words, Plowie - you're the one who pinged me!
The good fowk of s.e.r. (Meat Wanka excepted) need to know how you missed me
when I didn't post and how pissy you used to get when I ignored you!


Fucking creep...

But a polite one.

Nah, just *creepy*...

Ought to do more crossposting (I'm getting into it now) - then more people
could see you making a twat of yourself trying teach Iain how to suck eggs!
(Like a raggedy-arsed 'fruit & veg' barrer-boy trying to tell Richard
Branson how to run a business!! :)


--
*Save a tree, eat a beaver*

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
 
Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator wrote:
On Wed, 13 Feb 2008 12:37:35 -0600, Bob Shuman wrote:

I already posted my thoughts on warranty as well in a previous reply. The
bottom line here is you certainly know more than enough to make an informed
choice.


Hi Bob,
My husband returns tomorrow.
I'll give him all your information and then tell him what choice to make!
Donna
Please don't do that when I'm drinking coffee... my nose is burning
now... Somehow I seriously doubt you're related to SWMBO but you
certainly sound like you could be! :)

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel
 
Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator wrote:
On Wed, 13 Feb 2008 19:33:41 GMT, Bob Shuman wrote:

If you pay someone to install, then warranty may not be as important,


I've learned that I agree with you.
The warranty is for the fire-and-forget type of homeowner.
The one who doesn't flush twice yearly, who doesn't add the second anode,
who doesn't replace the anode after a few years, who doesn't add the ball
valve, etc.

Even then, the owner with the warranty has to bring the soaking wet heater
in the back of their car in to the manufacturer after their 1-year is up on
their supposed 12-year warranty - or else pay as much for the plumber to
visit ($400) as the heater cost in the first place ($400) to obtain the
'free' heater.

Some deal, that 12-year warranty!

Or am I reading it wrong?
You're pretty much right, although you still might find that within a
particular model line there are some quality/efficiency/construction
differences between the 6-year and 12-year models. you'll have to
evaluate those on a case by case basis though.

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel
 
Vic Smith wrote:
On Fri, 15 Feb 2008 21:30:25 -0500, Nate Nagel <njnagel@roosters.net
wrote:


Vic Smith wrote:


BTW, I found that the Impala never came with a 3.1.
It's a 3.4 or 3.8.

--Vic

Duh, brain fart on my part. It is indeed a 3.4, which is a 2.8/3.1
based engine. Same basic engine, but larger displacement.


I was thinking about an Impala as my next used car, but have to check
out the 3.4 first. Might go for a Malibu which I can get with a 3.1.
In 2005 I rented a Malibu with 2.2 for a Florida trip and got 34mpg
highway. Seemed less thirsty in the city than a six, and had plenty
of power for me. I was surprised when I checked the oil before the
trip, and found it was a 2.2. A lot different than the 2.2 I have in
the '90 Corsica. Much quieter and more powerful.

--Vic
I'm not particularly enamored of the Impala to be perfectly honest with
you... it's a little underpowered, doesn't handle well, is very loud
inside, and has lots of little ergonomic glitches. Plus I've heard the
3800 is the engine to get, not the 3.4. The newer (06-up) cars have a
3.5 as the base engine and at least one of my complaints (awful door
handles that eat your fingernails) has been fixed, although I haven't
driven one...)

Of course, I may be biased as my previous two daily drivers were a
Porsche 944 and a VW GTI 1.8T, so I may be slightly spoiled by good cars...

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel
 
Donna,

Why should a water heater be any different then any other purchasing
decision? (Referring to your telling your husband what to do on this...)

:)

Bob


"Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator" <donna.ohl@sbcglobal.net> wrote in
message news:wSutj.8886$0o7.1234@newssvr13.news.prodigy.net...
On Wed, 13 Feb 2008 12:37:35 -0600, Bob Shuman wrote:
I already posted my thoughts on warranty as well in a previous reply.
The
bottom line here is you certainly know more than enough to make an
informed
choice.

Hi Bob,
My husband returns tomorrow.
I'll give him all your information and then tell him what choice to make!
Donna
 
Have you tried using the motherboard jumper to clear CMOS? I'd try that
first. The location of the jumper (it's usually close to the round CMOS
battery on the motherboard) and how to use it (some boards you just remove
it for 30 seconds or so and replace. On others it's moved from one pin to
another) shouild be in the docs that came with the PC. If not, give HP a
call for directions.
Clearing CMOS removes any power on passwords.

HH

"ted" <beckeetless@aol.com> wrote in message
news:7fc148b5-5307-4df2-b987-e70dcf611a51@v17g2000hsa.googlegroups.com...
i have a compaq 6027us and the
power on password is on and
has locked me out how do i
unlock the pc. i need the hp
secret password to reset it.


thanks
 
"HH" <hahunt42@va.metrocast.net> wrote in message
news:-92dnQLhuKHZbQnanZ2dnUVZ_uevnZ2d@metrocastcablevision.com...

Have you tried using the motherboard jumper to clear CMOS? I'd
try that first. Clearing CMOS removes any power-on passwords.
It's also likely to reset the CMOS settings to their defaults. Be sure you
have a list of the currnent settings before clearing them.
 
On Mon, 21 Jan 2008 11:34:04 -0800, "William Sommerwerck"
<grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote:

"HH" <hahunt42@va.metrocast.net> wrote in message
news:-92dnQLhuKHZbQnanZ2dnUVZ_uevnZ2d@metrocastcablevision.com...

Have you tried using the motherboard jumper to clear CMOS? I'd
try that first. Clearing CMOS removes any power-on passwords.

It's also likely to reset the CMOS settings to their defaults. Be sure you
have a list of the currnent settings before clearing them.
It might be a bit hard to make that list if the password
prevents use?

Generally OEMs have rather spartan bios options, and while
this is often seen as a negative thing it also means the
system had to be able to run correctly without some of the
more advanced settings changes available. IOW generally
there's just basic things like disabling onboard features
and boot items.
 
"kony" <spam@spam.com> wrote in message
news:mk9ap3hotb99pnc9j0bf1cl48bk4f7e0lt@4ax.com...
On Mon, 21 Jan 2008 11:34:04 -0800, "William Sommerwerck"

It might be a bit hard to make that list if the password
prevents use?
True. It depends on whether you can access the BIOS settings without having
to use the password.

Regardless, you should have a list of BIOS settings written down somewhere.
I have such a listing.
 
go to

http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?docname=bph04375&lc=en&cc=us&dlc=en&product=94088&rule=46302&lang=en


"HH" <hahunt42@va.metrocast.net> wrote in message
news:-92dnQLhuKHZbQnanZ2dnUVZ_uevnZ2d@metrocastcablevision.com...
Have you tried using the motherboard jumper to clear CMOS? I'd try that
first. The location of the jumper (it's usually close to the round CMOS
battery on the motherboard) and how to use it (some boards you just
remove it for 30 seconds or so and replace. On others it's moved from
one pin to another) shouild be in the docs that came with the PC. If
not, give HP a call for directions.
Clearing CMOS removes any power on passwords.

HH

"ted" <beckeetless@aol.com> wrote in message
news:7fc148b5-5307-4df2-b987-e70dcf611a51@v17g2000hsa.googlegroups.com...
i have a compaq 6027us and the
power on password is on and
has locked me out how do i
unlock the pc. i need the hp
secret password to reset it.


thanks
 
On Mon, 21 Jan 2008 20:32:16 -0800 (PST),
stratus46@yahoo.com wrote:


Regardless, you should have a list of BIOS settings written down
somewhere.
I have such a listing.

With tthe older PCs and parallel port printers, you could do a
'printscreen' of the bios settings. Is that a possibility with USB
printers?

No.

I don't know that I'd consider writing down all the bios
settings all that important, unless the particular board had
some quirk in which a non-obvious setting needed to be
changed from the defaults for proper operation, and/or if
the system were overclocked then noting the o'c settings.

On the other hand if you build one system, use it for a fair
amount of time and depend on it, noting all settings changed
from defaults is conservatively a good idea. I wouldn't
bother writing down settings that aren't changed from the
defaults, there seems no point in doing that since they're
always right unless you'd changed them, and can be made
right again by clearing CMOS.
 
It is a desktop, not a notebook.

HH


"- Bobb -" <bobb@noemail.123> wrote in message
news:YsudnajPe4HvqwvanZ2dnUVZ_sednZ2d@comcast.com...
"CBFalconer" <cbfalconer@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:479523DB.B95E5884@yahoo.com...
ted wrote:

i have a compaq 6027us and the power on password is on and
has locked me out how do i unlock the pc. i need the hp
secret password to reset it.

If this is a laptop, you can't change it without the co-operation
of the manufacturer, which will also involve convincing them that
you own it.

When I worked at Compaq - had to SEND IT IN - they would wipe it - OS to
factory ( or maybe just tossed the old drive ?).
So if you NEED the data, remove the disk, install into a desktop pc as
second drive and backup before sending back ( ASK them while on the phone)
 
HH wrote: ** and top-posted. Fixed. **
"- Bobb -" <bobb@noemail.123> wrote:
"CBFalconer" <cbfalconer@yahoo.com> wrote:
ted wrote:

i have a compaq 6027us and the power on password is on and
has locked me out how do i unlock the pc. i need the hp
secret password to reset it.

If this is a laptop, you can't change it without the co-operation
of the manufacturer, which will also involve convincing them that
you own it.

When I worked at Compaq - had to SEND IT IN - they would wipe it
- OS to factory ( or maybe just tossed the old drive ?). So if
you NEED the data, remove the disk, install into a desktop pc as
second drive and backup before sending back ( ASK them while on
the phone)

It is a desktop, not a notebook.
So you can ignore my caution. But please do not top-post. Your
answer belongs after (or intermixed with) the quoted material to
which you reply, after snipping all irrelevant material. I fixed
this one. See the following links:

--
<http://www.catb.org/~esr/faqs/smart-questions.html>
<http://www.caliburn.nl/topposting.html>
<http://www.netmeister.org/news/learn2quote.html>
<http://cfaj.freeshell.org/google/> (taming google)
<http://members.fortunecity.com/nnqweb/> (newusers)



--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
 
Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator wrote:
On Fri, 15 Feb 2008 12:17:48 -0600, jakdedert wrote:
A cost that nobody seems to have factored in, is removal and disposal of
the old water heater.

Home depot hauls away the old water heater as part of the cost of the
installation.
I figured that. I was referring to the uncounted costs of doing it oneself.

jak
 
On Fri, 15 Feb 2008 20:37:20 -0800 (PST), hallerb@aol.com wrote:

in pennsylvania theres no tax on clothes, cold food no tax, hot food
taxable......
In California, the only thing they don't tax is death and taxes.
 
On Fri, 15 Feb 2008 18:55:22 -0800 (PST), hallerb@aol.com wrote:
sales tax has lots of wierd rules
Home depot told me there was sales tax on everything except the permit.

They tax the heater at 8.75%, they tax the $400 service at the same rate so
just the tax is about $70 USD (assuming a $400 heater + $400 service).

Given the permit is a tax of its own kind, I'm kind'a surprised they don't
tax the tax out here.
 
On Wed, 13 Feb 2008 12:37:35 -0600, Bob Shuman wrote:
I already posted my thoughts on warranty as well in a previous reply. The
bottom line here is you certainly know more than enough to make an informed
choice.
Hi Bob,
My husband returns tomorrow.
I'll give him all your information and then tell him what choice to make!
Donna
 

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