Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[ian field]

"William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:7d6dnbfxN5g-ifHanZ2dnUVZ_v-hnZ2d@comcast.com...

"Meat Plow" <meat@petitmorte.net> wrote in message
news:1gdlf6.kog.19.1@news.alt.net...

I see the females fly into zappers by the hundreds...

How do you know the gender?

The girlie one's scream as they hit the zapper.

 

[James Sweet]

These units usually use a Cockroft-Walton voltage multiplier or some
variation of, don't be tempted to use a HV transformer, its ability to
supply full current continuously would present a fire risk!

There's plenty on the web about Cockroft-Walton multipliers that can help
with adding more stages or beefing up the existing caps.

Must be a different sort of bug zapper we're talking about. The American
units I've dealt with all use a 60Hz HV transformer to feed the screens with
raw HV AC, IIRC they're around 2KV and similar in design to small neon sign
transformers. The OCV is not high enough to sustain an arc between screens,
but in the event a moth does get in there, it will sit and sizzle for a
while, it smells awful.

The zappers I'm familiar with look like this
http://www.westnilemosquitokiller.com/images/stingeruv80.jpg

Mine is at least 10 years old though and I haven't shopped recently so
perhaps things are different now.

 

[Michael A. Terrell]

"pfjw@aol.com" wrote:

On Dec 21, 1:15 pm, Meat Plow <m...@petitmorte.net> wrote:

It goes without saying that this is so since it is how they survive.
However, I see the female fly into zappers by the hundreds and each one of
those is one less that is likely to bite me or my pets. So I stand upon my
personal experience with zappers regardless of what quotes you can cut and
paste.

Hey, it's your yard, your money and your mosquitoes... and how you
manage them is up to you. My wife will tell you that I *HATE* biting
insects, but it hasn't stopped me. We prefer repellants placed
remotely to confuse the little buggers. It works. Also and blessedly,
we have breezes where we tend to sit the most - and that keeps the
bulk of them away anyway.

Now, if we were in Alaska...

Two, or more mosquitoes would carry you away, to drain all the blood
from your body where no one would find it. The biggest mosquitoes I've
ever seen were at Ft. Greely, Ak. in the early '70s. You could hear
their wings flapping as they flew by. They used to joke about
installing anti-aircraft guns at the landing field to kill the damn
things, to stop them from mating with the Huey copters.

The guy that fueled the copters claimed that he pumped 200 gallons of
fuel into a 'skeeter' one night, after mistaking it for a Huey on the
flight line. ;-)


--
Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to
prove it.
Member of DAV #85.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida

 

[Nate Nagel]

Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator wrote:

On Wed, 13 Feb 2008 15:10:03 -0800 (PST), hallerb@aol.com wrote:

add be prepared to replace drain valve, which may not shut or drip
when closed, espically the plastic ones. some valves will clog replace
tank drain valve with a ball valve at new tank install time


Thank you for all the advice!
You've given us the courage to tackle this ourselves!
Bill and I read *every* post here!

To replace our dripping 40-gallon (65-gallon FHR) home water heater, we
bought the best water heater I could find.

This turned out to be the $450 Sears #33154 (actually manufactured by AO
Smith) 97-gallon First Hour Rating (FHR) and 0.63 Energy Factor (EF),
nominally with a 50-gallon tank and coming with a (rather useless) 12-year
warranty on parts and a slightly useful 1-year warranty on labor.

We're going to do the job tomorrow so I'm reading *everything* I can find
on the net on how to properly remove and install a natural gas home hot
water heater. I'll summarize the steps we plan on taking in a subsequent
posting.

So far, Bill bought $686.47 in parts while I write up every step for him
before we do the work tomorrow, together. He will return any unused parts,
but here is what he bought from Sears today to get ready for the job.

$449.00 Sears #33154 50-gallon 12/1 year hot water heater 97FHR .63EF
$ 2.19 1-ounce TFE paste (for the gas pipe fittings)
$ 9.59 3/4-inch quarter-turn water valve (replaces plastic drain valve)
$ 8.99 3/4-inch CSA gas ball valve (for the gas line)
$ 15.99 3/4-inch swing check valve (for additional heat-loss protection)
$ 7.99 18" 3/4-inch by 3/4 inch FIP corrugated copper/brass flex pipe (x2)
$ 7.49 15" 3/4-inch by 3/4 inch FIP corrugated copper/brass flex pipe (x2)
$ 5.99 12" 3/4-inch by 3/4 inch FIP corrugated copper/brass flex pipe (x2)
$ 12.99 18" 3/4-inch stainless-steel water-heater connector pipe (x2)
$ 10.99 12" 3/4-inch stainless-steel water-heater connector pipe (x2)
$ 8.99 3/4-inch by 3/4-inch Dialectric Union B (x4)
$ 3.59 1.5-inch long 3/4-inch male:male brass pipe nipples (x4)
$ 2.39 1.0-inch long 3/4-inch male:male brass pipe nipples (x3)
$ 52.32 sales tax at 8.25%
--------
$686.47 total

The reason for *both* the copper flex pipe and stainless steel pipe is
because the stainless steel might allow us to not need the dialectric
unions which are huge. Remember, the new tank is five inches taller than
the old tank so we are going to have problems with the plumbing most likely
so having fewer nipples and dialectric unions will shorten the lines a bit.

Do we really need to isolate the copper from the brass from the steel?
We assume so.

Also, we bought the extra one-way check valve even though the water heater
apparently comes with heat-loss protectors and we can s-kink the flex lines
(not the steel lines, just the copper lines).

Do you think the one-way hot-water-outlet check valve will work to slow
heat loss?

Note we didn't buy the insulating blanket for the water heater, nor the
insulation for the hot-water pipes yet. We figured we could do that later.

Our biggest question is whether we really needed the dialectric unions.
Since they were female:female, that necessitated brass nipples on each
side, further lengthening the lines which we need to shorten.

What do you think?
Donna & Bill

the nipples on the top of your new heater should already be dielectric,
so adding a dielectric at the end of your water pipes would only protect
the copper flex.

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

 

[Edwin Pawlowski]

"Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator" <donna.ohl@sbcglobal.net> wrote in
message

$ 9.59 3/4-inch quarter-turn water valve (replaces plastic drain valve)
$ 8.99 3/4-inch CSA gas ball valve (for the gas line)
$ 15.99 3/4-inch swing check valve (for additional heat-loss protection)
$ 7.99 18" 3/4-inch by 3/4 inch FIP corrugated copper/brass flex pipe
(x2)
$ 7.49 15" 3/4-inch by 3/4 inch FIP corrugated copper/brass flex pipe
(x2)
$ 5.99 12" 3/4-inch by 3/4 inch FIP corrugated copper/brass flex pipe
(x2)
$ 12.99 18" 3/4-inch stainless-steel water-heater connector pipe (x2)
$ 10.99 12" 3/4-inch stainless-steel water-heater connector pipe (x2)
$ 8.99 3/4-inch by 3/4-inch Dialectric Union B (x4)
$ 3.59 1.5-inch long 3/4-inch male:male brass pipe nipples (x4)
$ 2.39 1.0-inch long 3/4-inch male:male brass pipe nipples (x3)
$ 52.32 sales tax at 8.25%
--------
$686.47 total

Could have saved a bundle on those items from a real plumbing supply. Only
difference, they usually have a 15% restocking charges for returns.


..

Do we really need to isolate the copper from the brass from the steel?
We assume so.

Copper and brass are compatible. Brass is made with copper as an ingredient.

Also, we bought the extra one-way check valve even though the water heater
apparently comes with heat-loss protectors and we can s-kink the flex
lines
(not the steel lines, just the copper lines).

Don't need both. Careful putting an S bend as there is a minimum radius for
them.

Note we didn't buy the insulating blanket for the water heater, nor the
insulation for the hot-water pipes yet. We figured we could do that later.

Won't really help much with todays's well insulated heaters.

Our biggest question is whether we really needed the dialectric unions.
Since they were female:female, that necessitated brass nipples on each
side, further lengthening the lines which we need to shorten.

What do you think?
Donna & Bill

If you have copper/steel you need them.

 

[Edwin Pawlowski]

"Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator" <donna.ohl@sbcglobal.net> wrote in
message

HOT-WATER-HEATER REMOVAL:

While the old dripping hot-water heater is still firmly in place ...
- Shut natural gas at the main gas meter
- Shut natural gas at the local hot-water heater
- Ensure the pilot light is out before separating any gas plumbing lines
- Shut the household cold water at the main water valve
- Shut the cold-water inlet to the hot-water heater

No need to turn both off if the valves work, but can't hurt.

- Open all hot-water faucets in the house to drain off pressure

One low valve will drain off the pressure in seconds.

- Wait two hours, if possible, to allow the hot water in the tank to cool

Turn the gas off the night before. Alternately, turnt he gas off, run the
hot water to dilute what is in there a bit, then drain. Easier than sitting
around two hours for a very little temperature loss. 40 gallon in an
insulated thank is quite a bit of mass.

- Connect a garden hose to the water heater drain valve
- Open drain valve and drain hot water where it will not damage anything
- Disconnect garden hose and close drain valve when done (40 or 50
gallons)

It won't drain unless you allow air to get in. Disconnect the top lines,
then drain.

- Unbolt earthquake straps (if any)
- Unscrew the sheet-metal screw holding the vent pipe to the draft hood
- Separate the vent pipe from the draft hood

In your parts list I did not see anything for the vent hood that will be 5"
shorter. Can you just cut the existing flue pipe?

- Remove all gas plumbing up to and including the old shut-off valve

Why? I didn't see any gas fittings on the parts list. If the gas is int he
same location, just greak the union and put the pip below it into the new
unit, then reconnect.

TURN ON THE WATER SUPPLY:
- Open all the hot-water faucets in the house to bleed out air

I'd leave them closed all along the way, save for one. No need to drain the
entire system and makes purgin air easier later.

 

[William Sommerwerck]

"Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
newsH7Aj.94$kN5.38@newsfe1-gui.ntli.net...

What have we done ?
Yesterday, a Vox passed across my bench. What did the
plate on the back say?
"BUILT BY VOX MANUFACTURING CHINA UNDER THE
DIRECTION OF VOX R&D ENGLAND"
Vox Manufacturing China ???? Is nothing sacred any more?

I have to say that it wasn't too badly built, but when staunchly British
companies with a fame level like Vox start shifting their manufacturing
operations to China, then I reckon that the Western world is finished in
electronics construction, the same as it now seems to be in just about
every other 'practical' field ...

I just started a job at Microsoft Hardware. It's moving almost all its
production to China -- though under supervision of US engineers.

Readers who believe that the ONLY reason any business exists -- or should
exist -- is to make money, should read "Built to Last".

 

[N Cook]

Arfa Daily <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
newsH7Aj.94$kN5.38@newsfe1-gui.ntli.net...

What have we done ?

Yesterday, a Vox passed across my bench. What did the plate on the back
say
?

"BUILT BY VOX MANUFACTURING CHINA UNDER THE DIRECTION OF VOX R&D ENGLAND"

Vox Manufacturing China ???? Is nothing sacred any more ?

I have to say that it wasn't too badly built, but when staunchly British
companies with a fame level like Vox start shifting their manufacturing
operations to China, then I reckon that the Western world is finished in
electronics construction, the same as it now seems to be in just about
every
other 'practical' field ...

Arfa

Shipping rates must have dropped or the price of these things shot up.
At one time the freight cost of chipboard boxes, to the west, excluded that
trade. Just cardboard boxes full of populated/ soldered and checked boards
made economic sense.
The wooden boxes then constructed over here

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

 

[Vic Smith]

On Sat, 16 Feb 2008 22:07:56 -0700, "Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer
Coordinator" <donna.ohl@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
<snipped instructions for heater replacement>

If your pipes are galvanized you don't need di-electric fittings.
My guess is special tape/dope for NG is just bullshit to sell
expensive sealers, but do what you prefer with that.
I use the same teflon tape for gas and water. As you've noted keep it
off the first couple threads so it can't get in the pipe flow.
I always look end-on to ensure that. Once inserted for tightening it
can't move forward.
Unless it's the exact same tank, you will have to use different length
nipples. Until the new tank is in place, you are guessing.
If you aren't handy with plumbing, get somebody who is to help.
If you do it alone, do it when parts are available.
You may find some of the old pipes/fittings scaled up and need
replacing. Same with stop valves. This is the time to replace old
questionable stuff.
Since I don't cut my own pipes any more, when I do a job like this I
make sure I have plenty of different sized nipples available.
They are pretty cheap, and I don't have to go back to the store.
The biggest "art" in working with steel pipe is feeling when you
should stop turning, or go for another turn on a fitting that requires
alignment. How hard you crank down a series of fittings can add
or subtract inches to a run of piping.
When working with some tight fittings, ie those connected by close
nipples, a pair of 14" channel-locks can take a bite on an opposing
fitting that a fatter pipe wrench can't. They are expensive but come
in handy for many, many uses, even removing car oil filters.
Take your time, think as you go, be especially careful with gas.
Good luck. And let us know how it worked out.

--Vic

 

[cavedweller]

On Feb 17, 12:07 am, "Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator"
<donna....@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

On Sat, 16 Feb 2008 22:02:31 -0700, Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator
wrote:
We're going to do the job tomorrow so I'm reading *everything* I can find

on the net on how to properly remove and install a natural gas home hot
water heater. I'll summarize the steps we plan on taking in a subsequent
posting.

Here are the steps I wrote up for Bill.
I post this to you *before* we tackle the job tomorrow morning.
Did we miss anything important that you have told us to do?
Is anything out of order that you suggested?
Can we skip any of the steps outlined below?
Your timely advice will help us and anyone following this thread!
Thanks,
Donna

HOT-WATER-HEATER REMOVAL:

While the old dripping hot-water heater is still firmly in place ...
- Shut natural gas at the main gas meter
- Shut natural gas at the local hot-water heater
- Ensure the pilot light is out before separating any gas plumbing lines
- Shut the household cold water at the main water valve
- Shut the cold-water inlet to the hot-water heater
- Open all hot-water faucets in the house to drain off pressure
- Wait two hours, if possible, to allow the hot water in the tank to cool
- Connect a garden hose to the water heater drain valve
- Open drain valve and drain hot water where it will not damage anything
- Disconnect garden hose and close drain valve when done (40 or 50 gallons)
- Unbolt earthquake straps (if any)
- Unscrew the sheet-metal screw holding the vent pipe to the draft hood
- Separate the vent pipe from the draft hood
- Unscrew the cold-water inlet at the nipple at the top of the tank
- Unscrew the hot-water outlet at the nipple at the top of the tank
- Unscrew the natural gas inlet to the water-heater thermostat
- Cap the newly disconnected natural gas line to prevent contamination
- Unscrew sheet-metal screws holding gas-flue hat onto the vent pipe
- Separate the vent pipe from the gas-flue hat
- Remove old heater off the elevated base
- Remove all water plumbing up to and including the old shut-off valve
- Remove all gas plumbing up to and including the old shut-off valve

HOT-WATER-HEATER REPLACEMENT:

While the new hot-water heater is sitting on the garage floor ...
- Remove the plastic drain valve & replace with a brass ball valve
- Install the new temperature and pressure (T&P) relief valve
- Install the relief valve relief pipe
- Always use two wrenches when screwing and unscrewing pipe fittings!
MOUNT THE TANK & POSITION THE VENT AND HOOD:
- Mount and level the new hot water heater on the elevated base
- Ensure at least six inches of clear space all around the new heater
- Hacksaw the old gas vent so that it fits the new larger water heater
- Ensure the gas vent aligns with the center of the hot-water heater
- Insert legs of the draft hood into the holes in the top of the heater
- Drill a 1/8 inch hole into the draft hood and 3-inch vent pipe
- Screw in at least 1 sheet-metal screw from the vent hood to the vent pipe
ATTACH THE COLD WATER INLET:
- Wrap Teflon tape on the threads of the fittings supplied with the tank
- Insert the blue heat-trap fitting (arrow down) into the tank cold-water
inlet
- Ensure the last two threads are never covered with Teflon tape
- Do not use pipe dope on any threads where Teflon tape is noted below
- Screw the cold-water inlet male:male nipple into the top of the tank
- Wrap Teflon tape on the thread of the galvanized 3/4" water-inlet pipe
- Screw a dialectric union on the 3/4" galvanized cold-water inlet pipe
- Wrap Teflon tape on the threads of each male:male brass nipple
- Screw the brass male:male nipple on the female:female dialectric union
- Screw a new ball-valve shutoff onto this vertical cold-water inlet pipe
- Wrap Teflon tape on the threads of another male:male brass nipple
- Screw this male:male nipple into the new ball-valve shutoff
- Screw the copper flex pipe onto the cold-water inlet brass nipples
ATTACH THE HOT WATER OUTLET:
- Wrap Teflon tape on the threads of the fittings supplied with the tank
- Ensure the last two threads are never covered with Teflon tape
- Do not use pipe dope on any threads where Teflon tape is noted below
- Insert the red heat-trap fitting (arrow up) into the tank hot-water
outlet
- Wrap Teflon tape on the thread of the galvanized 3/4" water-outlet pipe
- Screw a dialectric union on the 3/4" galvanized hot-water outlet pipe
- Wrap Teflon tape on the threads of each male:male brass nipple
- Screw the brass male:male nipple on the female:female dialectric union
- Screw a new one-way check-valve onto this vertical hot-water outlet pipe
- Wrap Teflon tape on the threads of another male:male brass nipple
- Screw this male:male nipple into the new ball-valve shutoff
- Screw the copper flex pipe onto the hot-water inlet brass nipples
- Bend the copper flex pipe into an S shape to further inhibit heat loss
TURN ON THE WATER SUPPLY:
- Open all the hot-water faucets in the house to bleed out air
- Open the main cold-water input to the house
- Open the new ball-valve cold-water input to the hot-water heater
- Check for leaks as the tank fills
- Place a pan or bowl at the T&P overflow tube & test the T&P valve
ATTACH THE NATURAL GAS INLET:
- Always connect the natural gas line as the very last step in this process
- Set the thermostat to the off position
- Coat male natural gas line threads with stick pipe dope (never Teflon
tape)
- Ensure the last two threads are not covered with any pipe dope
- Connect the new natural gas flex pipe with shutoff valve to the
thermostat
- Turn on natural gas at the main switch
- Turn on natural gas at the local inlet to the water heater
- Test for leaks by toothbrushing a solution of dish detergent and water
- Read and carefully follow the manufacturer's lighting instructions
INSULATION:
- Wrap additional insulation around your hot-water heater, if desired
- Wrap insulation around your hot-water outlet pipe, if desired
DISPOSAL:
- Call the local garbage or recycling to haul away the old water heater
YEARLY MAINTENANCE:
- Place a pan or bowl at the T&P overflow tube & test the T&P valve
- Shut the natural gas flow valve to your water heater
- Close the cold-water intake at the top of the water heater
- Open at least one hot-water faucet on any level above the water heater
- Connect a garden hose to your hot water heater drain valve
- Open water heater drain valve & empty where hot water won't damage things
- Shut the drain valve when that water runs clear (approx 10 gallons)
- Remove and inspect sacrificial anode (replace if corroded badly)
- Leave the hot water faucet(s) open
- Open the cold-water valve intake to the water heater
- Run hot-water faucets for at least 10 second (or until sputtering stops)
- Turn the natural gas back on and ensure flame ignites in the burner

Now we know why good old Bill travels...............

 

[Michael Kennedy]

"ian field" <dai.ode@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:abuaj.677$ou3.670@newsfe4-win.ntli.net...

Here's a trick that might interest anyone who enjoys repairing things.

Every year the local cheapo store stocks "bug lanterns" which they don't
roll out until half way through summer because they know the blue
fluorescent tube won't last the distance! The ballast is badly designed -
consisting of a pair of parallel capacitors (1u & 0.56u) in series with a
parallel pair of 100 Ohm 2W resistors (for 240V).

When the lamp fails, the zapper voltage multiplier is still in GWO but a
replacement tube is $B!W(B5 against $B!W(B8 for a new lantern. Normally not a good
investment, but in view of the very short tube life something else can be
done.

To avoid the cost of a replacement tube it should be tackled before
failure, the units I have it was found that removing the ballast
components left enough space on the PCB to glue on a board salvaged from a
7W CFL, if one of the ex ballast capacitors is added to the electrolytic
on the CFL board it will have a very long life and the tube should be good
for a couple of years continuous use. An incidental benefit is energy
saving, when I opened the 7W CFL I found it had tiny TO92 transistors, so
the board is obviously not going to draw as much power as the original
ballast resistors which had burnt the PCB black!

Interesting mod for a bug zapper. It makes it self cleaning.

http://www.geocities.com/tjacodesign/bugzap/zapper.html


Mike

 

[ian field]

"Michael Kennedy" <Mikek400@remthis.comcast.net> wrote in message
news:7cmdnSACf9VE9_LanZ2dnUVZ_vyinZ2d@comcast.com...

"ian field" <dai.ode@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:abuaj.677$ou3.670@newsfe4-win.ntli.net...
Here's a trick that might interest anyone who enjoys repairing things.

Every year the local cheapo store stocks "bug lanterns" which they don't
roll out until half way through summer because they know the blue
fluorescent tube won't last the distance! The ballast is badly designed -
consisting of a pair of parallel capacitors (1u & 0.56u) in series with a
parallel pair of 100 Ohm 2W resistors (for 240V).

When the lamp fails, the zapper voltage multiplier is still in GWO but a
replacement tube is $B!W(B5 against $B!W(B8 for a new lantern.
Normally not a good investment, but in view of the very short tube life
something else can be done.

To avoid the cost of a replacement tube it should be tackled before
failure, the units I have it was found that removing the ballast
components left enough space on the PCB to glue on a board salvaged from
a 7W CFL, if one of the ex ballast capacitors is added to the
electrolytic on the CFL board it will have a very long life and the tube
should be good for a couple of years continuous use. An incidental
benefit is energy saving, when I opened the 7W CFL I found it had tiny
TO92 transistors, so the board is obviously not going to draw as much
power as the original ballast resistors which had burnt the PCB black!


Interesting mod for a bug zapper. It makes it self cleaning.

http://www.geocities.com/tjacodesign/bugzap/zapper.html


Mike

If you visit the local tip and salvage the 470uF reservoir caps and bridge
rectifiers from half a dozen or so TVs/monitors to make your multiplier you
can make a *REAL* zapper.

 

[z]

On Dec 20, 1:29 pm, "p...@aol.com" <p...@aol.com> wrote:

The much better money-saving idea would be to not purchase a bug-
zapper altogether. I am not sure of the range of species in the

Well, then how do you get rid of those pesky fairies that infest the
garden, flitting all about in the moonlight?

 

[ian field]

"z" <gzuckier@snail-mail.net> wrote in message
news:1478954c-05af-4c31-b8ce-954764dcf9a2@d21g2000prf.googlegroups.com...
On Dec 20, 1:29 pm, "p...@aol.com" <p...@aol.com> wrote:

The much better money-saving idea would be to not purchase a bug-
zapper altogether. I am not sure of the range of species in the

Well, then how do you get rid of those pesky fairies that infest the
garden, flitting all about in the moonlight?

Easy - limit yourself to one bottle of Jack Daniel's per night.

 

www.mosquito-zapper.com The Flotron Mosquito Power Trap.I have seen
them for sale before at Home Depot stores.When I was in Vietnam in 1964,
there was a mosquito net mounted on some round iron bars on my bunk,
everybody over there had those mosquito nets.Sometimes, whomever was
maintaining the generators (for electricity) they would be switiching
over from one generator to another generator, sometimes, no electricity
for about ten or fifteen minutes.The heat and humidity over there was
something else, all day and night long.Between generators, I couldn't
sleep.First chance I got, I went to a store and I bought an electric
fan, I tied the fan to the head of my bunk. (behind the mosquito net)
After I did my year over there and I was packing my duffle bag getting
ready to come home,,,, Who wants my electric fan, for free?

I remember when I was a kid and the mosquito spraying truck was rolling
around our neighborhood, us kids always ran behind (or rode our
bicycles) right up close behind that truck spraying the whole
neighborhood with big clouds of DDT.I can still smell that DDT now.
cuhulin

 

[ian field]

<cuhulin@webtv.net> wrote in message
news:4058-4771BEC3-795@storefull-3254.bay.webtv.net...

www.mosquito-zapper.com The Flotron Mosquito Power Trap.I have seen
them for sale before at Home Depot stores.When I was in Vietnam in 1964,
there was a mosquito net mounted on some round iron bars on my bunk,
everybody over there had those mosquito nets.Sometimes, whomever was
maintaining the generators (for electricity) they would be switiching
over from one generator to another generator, sometimes, no electricity
for about ten or fifteen minutes.The heat and humidity over there was
something else, all day and night long.Between generators, I couldn't
sleep.First chance I got, I went to a store and I bought an electric
fan, I tied the fan to the head of my bunk. (behind the mosquito net)
After I did my year over there and I was packing my duffle bag getting
ready to come home,,,, Who wants my electric fan, for free?

An old PC fan is useful for killing larger insects like moths and straggler
wasps that come indoors after dark - just mount the fan close to a light and
the fly into the blades.

 

[Vic Smith]

On Sun, 17 Feb 2008 17:26:01 GMT, "Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer
Coordinator" <donna.ohl@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

On Sun, 17 Feb 2008 10:52:25 -0600, Vic Smith wrote:
The hot and cold pipes could be different ages, or the mineral content
could precipitate differently that what has been my experience, which
is the hot water scaling up much more.

Hi Vic,

I was thinking it was the condensation on the cold-water pipe (being in the
unheated garage) that allowed the scaley white crust to build up only on
the cold-water pipe.

We recently moved here so we don't know what the history is on the
hot-water pipe; maybe it is simply newer.

Could be. I was talking about the inside of the pipe, where

condensation isn't an issue. I've seen some hot water pipes which
were almost completely clogged with scale. I believe it's because
the heat causes the mineral solution to more readily deposit on the
steel.

--Vic

 

[msg]

Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator wrote:

On Sun, 17 Feb 2008 10:59:36 -0600, msg wrote:

odd that such detail would be accorded to a routine task.
Donna, what is your employment or educational background?

<snip>

I retired from a career in public-school teaching two years ago.

At one point, I taught very young autistic and aspergers children; we found
the best therapy for their social disability was to break down even the
most mundane of tasks into their every component.

By behavioral modification, the children could perform the behavior on
their own, outside the classroom.

This is much like what a software engineer does when writing routine or
complex software, is it not?

Indeed, I almost labeled your post a "flow chart" but it didn't use the
standard conventions of flow charting ;-).

Are you planning on posting your photos and tutorial? What would be the URL?

Michael

 

[Donna Ohl, Grady Voluntee]

On Sun, 17 Feb 2008 11:04:53 -0500, clams_casino wrote:
On Sun, 17 Feb 2008 11:04:53 -0500, clams_casino wrote:

Do get it right. A family recently died of carbon monoxide poisoning

Hi clams,

We *are* doing it right. That's why I'm here in the first place. To get it
right. I do appreciate the help. From everyone. And, I'll give back by
posting the tutorial for others like us to follow.

In fact, we feel we're possibly doing it *better* than a plumber might, at
least in terms of raw material. It seems to us (unsubstantiated opinion)
that a plumber might tend to maximize his *time* and not necessarily the
quality of the materials - unless specifically asked to by the homeowner
(who must correspondingly be willing to pay for the extra parts cost and
labor).

Bill is in his final shower as we speak. The gas is off.

He can sing in that steaming hot shower for as long as he likes and, for
once, I won't be on his back about wasting the hot water!

Donna

 

[Donna Ohl, Grady Voluntee]

On Sun, 17 Feb 2008 10:52:25 -0600, Vic Smith wrote:

The hot and cold pipes could be different ages, or the mineral content
could precipitate differently that what has been my experience, which
is the hot water scaling up much more.

Hi Vic,

I was thinking it was the condensation on the cold-water pipe (being in the
unheated garage) that allowed the scaley white crust to build up only on
the cold-water pipe.

We recently moved here so we don't know what the history is on the
hot-water pipe; maybe it is simply newer.

Donna