J
James Sweet
Guest
What sort of info do you need? It's a 13K resistor, you can measure to see
if it's in spec.
What sort of info do you need? It's a 13K resistor, you can measure to see
if it's in spec.
E
Eeyore
Guest
James Sweet wrote:
The K will lbe the tolerance (10%).
Graham
Actually it's probably a 13 ohm resistor.
The K will lbe the tolerance (10%).
Graham
R
radiosrfun
Guest
"Eeyore" <rabbitsfriendsandrelations@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:47854F25.EAB912C0@hotmail.com...
faces... Nice guys! And I'm supposed to want to rush to join them - why?
They don't have my support and never will. Jail time? Hell, they ought to be
shot. In that short time, they'll come back out more bitter than ever. Jail
is just a short time out for them.
news:47854F25.EAB912C0@hotmail.com...
They love their religion so much, but don't have the balls to show their
faces... Nice guys! And I'm supposed to want to rush to join them - why?
They don't have my support and never will. Jail time? Hell, they ought to be
shot. In that short time, they'll come back out more bitter than ever. Jail
is just a short time out for them.
E
Eeyore
Guest
Eeyore wrote:
Four Muslim men have been jailed for their part in protests at the Danish
embassy in London, against cartoons satirising the Prophet Muhammad.
Mizanur Rahman, 24, Umran Javed, 27, and Abdul Muhid, 24, were each jailed for
six years for soliciting to murder after telling a crowd to bomb the UK.
A fourth man, Abdul Saleem, 32, was jailed for four years for stirring up racial
hatred at the protest in 2006.
http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/uk/6904622.stm
Graham
AND soliciting murder.
Four Muslim men have been jailed for their part in protests at the Danish
embassy in London, against cartoons satirising the Prophet Muhammad.
Mizanur Rahman, 24, Umran Javed, 27, and Abdul Muhid, 24, were each jailed for
six years for soliciting to murder after telling a crowd to bomb the UK.
A fourth man, Abdul Saleem, 32, was jailed for four years for stirring up racial
hatred at the protest in 2006.
http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/uk/6904622.stm
Graham
N
N8N
Guest
On Feb 18, 2:51 am, "Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator"
<donna....@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
solution over all gas connections and check for bubbles.
nate
<donna....@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
can't see your photos at work, but definitely brush a soapy water
solution over all gas connections and check for bubbles.
nate
E
Eeyore
Guest
James Beck wrote:
over the 'Danish cartoons'.
I'm pleased to say that several Muslims have now been jailed in the UK for
their part in those demos on racial hatred grounds.
Graham
It dates from that time when Muslims were calling for Europeans to be killed
over the 'Danish cartoons'.
I'm pleased to say that several Muslims have now been jailed in the UK for
their part in those demos on racial hatred grounds.
Graham
J
James Beck
Guest
In article <47853FA2.2B9A7D98@hotmail.com>,
rabbitsfriendsandrelations@hotmail.com says...
rabbitsfriendsandrelations@hotmail.com says...
J
JW
Guest
On Fri, 07 Dec 2007 20:32:35 +0000 Eeyore
<rabbitsfriendsandrelations@hotmail.com> wrote in Message id:
<4759ADE3.649A4A11@hotmail.com>:
<rabbitsfriendsandrelations@hotmail.com> wrote in Message id:
<4759ADE3.649A4A11@hotmail.com>:
Huh? I don't see any html.
E
Eeyore
Guest
JW wrote:
Graham
I removed it in my reply !
Graham
N
N8N
Guest
On Feb 17, 8:54Â pm, "hall...@aol.com" <hall...@aol.com> wrote:
(whole family is from rural PA, very, um, frugal...) I figure
inspecting the anode regularly will tell me what I need to know about
the tank condition and I can make an informed decision from there.
You may recall from my previous posts that I just replaced the anodes
back in November on two ancient (80's) water heaters in my basement;
it turns out that they were both still in good shape despite the solar
one appearing to be near failure - the outside shell is very rusty and
looking to be in poor condition but the anode was still intact enough
that it appears it was never unprotected on the inside. Also I had
thought that the solar one was leaking intermittently but it now
appears that that was due to dry rotted condensate drain lines in the
furnace and the slope of the floor (solar HWH is located near a low
spot) repairing the furnace drain seems to have fixed the issue.
Basically, when you live in an area like I do where the housing costs
are so high, you can't afford to simply replace stuff on a schedule,
you replace it when it really needs to be replaced. I'll continue
flushing and inspecting the anode; when this anode is gone (if I'm
still living in the same place) then maybe I'll consider replacing the
tank, as it'll be 30-40 years old by then
(and hopefully I'll be
making enough money by then that the mortgage won't be eating up half
my take-home every month)
Yes, I "shop" for light fixtures and other supplies in the "free"
section of Craigslist as well, and just bought a couple paneled doors
for $12 each from the home salvage place up in Edmonton.
I'd like to think that when it does come time for me to move out of
this house, despite the fact that I'm replacing very little, that the
new owners will still find far fewer problems than I did upon moving
in simply because I do address problems as they arise, and I do
everything I can myself so I know it's done right.
nate
(officially licensed and certified cheap b*****d)
Generally, yes.
I guess I take a different tack; probably has to do with my upbringing
(whole family is from rural PA, very, um, frugal...) I figure
inspecting the anode regularly will tell me what I need to know about
the tank condition and I can make an informed decision from there.
You may recall from my previous posts that I just replaced the anodes
back in November on two ancient (80's) water heaters in my basement;
it turns out that they were both still in good shape despite the solar
one appearing to be near failure - the outside shell is very rusty and
looking to be in poor condition but the anode was still intact enough
that it appears it was never unprotected on the inside. Also I had
thought that the solar one was leaking intermittently but it now
appears that that was due to dry rotted condensate drain lines in the
furnace and the slope of the floor (solar HWH is located near a low
spot) repairing the furnace drain seems to have fixed the issue.
Basically, when you live in an area like I do where the housing costs
are so high, you can't afford to simply replace stuff on a schedule,
you replace it when it really needs to be replaced. I'll continue
flushing and inspecting the anode; when this anode is gone (if I'm
still living in the same place) then maybe I'll consider replacing the
tank, as it'll be 30-40 years old by then
(and hopefully I'll bemaking enough money by then that the mortgage won't be eating up half
my take-home every month)
Yes, I "shop" for light fixtures and other supplies in the "free"
section of Craigslist as well, and just bought a couple paneled doors
for $12 each from the home salvage place up in Edmonton.
I'd like to think that when it does come time for me to move out of
this house, despite the fact that I'm replacing very little, that the
new owners will still find far fewer problems than I did upon moving
in simply because I do address problems as they arise, and I do
everything I can myself so I know it's done right.
nate
(officially licensed and certified cheap b*****d)
N
N Cook
Guest
whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:79c36693-d6b1-441a-838a-fd6a784e3b10@l1g2000hsa.googlegroups.com...
On Jan 7, 6:12 am, "N Cook" <diver...@gazeta.pl> wrote:
units. Yours has a fractured strain relief boot, I gather.
First, you can knife-trim away any disconnected part of the boot,
'cuz it's just a cable stiffener if it doesn't transfer strain to the
case.
Then you can build up some material using fusion tape (self-
adhering rubbery tape, used for weatherproofing splices).
If the power unit can be opened, you could try to remove the boot
entirely and replace it with (for instance) a short piece of vinyl
(Tygon brand is what we see here) tubing, held in place with
cable ties. If the tubing doesn't friction-fit in the hole, bulk it
up
with a wrap of fusion tape. This kind of solution might not
maintain your warranty, of course.
reply:
Both ends of the DC cable were affected.
The less mangled end I just slid some heatshrink over and heated , with the
sleeving contracting into the webs, but a lot stiffer than was.
The other end I split a BNC cable entry protector and filled the gap and web
gaps with black hotmelt glue , then heatshrink over thick form plummers PTFE
tape, heated and then cut off the PTFE and sleeving. Looked quite neat but
again very much stiffer of course.
Whether the cable will break at the new sort of pivot point, not rigid but
then not as soft as the sectored webs/vanes, time will tell but at least it
will not fail at the original position which must have been weakened , even
if not obviously so.
--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/
news:79c36693-d6b1-441a-838a-fd6a784e3b10@l1g2000hsa.googlegroups.com...
On Jan 7, 6:12 am, "N Cook" <diver...@gazeta.pl> wrote:
Yeah, this is why I hate 'welded shut for your protection' power
units. Yours has a fractured strain relief boot, I gather.
First, you can knife-trim away any disconnected part of the boot,
'cuz it's just a cable stiffener if it doesn't transfer strain to the
case.
Then you can build up some material using fusion tape (self-
adhering rubbery tape, used for weatherproofing splices).
If the power unit can be opened, you could try to remove the boot
entirely and replace it with (for instance) a short piece of vinyl
(Tygon brand is what we see here) tubing, held in place with
cable ties. If the tubing doesn't friction-fit in the hole, bulk it
up
with a wrap of fusion tape. This kind of solution might not
maintain your warranty, of course.
reply:
Both ends of the DC cable were affected.
The less mangled end I just slid some heatshrink over and heated , with the
sleeving contracting into the webs, but a lot stiffer than was.
The other end I split a BNC cable entry protector and filled the gap and web
gaps with black hotmelt glue , then heatshrink over thick form plummers PTFE
tape, heated and then cut off the PTFE and sleeving. Looked quite neat but
again very much stiffer of course.
Whether the cable will break at the new sort of pivot point, not rigid but
then not as soft as the sectored webs/vanes, time will tell but at least it
will not fail at the original position which must have been weakened , even
if not obviously so.
--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/
Guest
After testing various TV software and visiting loads of sites. most of
them offer a free trial or preview and then they make you pay to sign
up, or are cluttered with ads. I think that is ridiculous... so ive
done my research and have found a couple of really decent sites. The
first one Id like to draw your tention to is (viewmy.tv) This site has
almost 1300 channels from around the globe and counting. it is free
to register and they dont ask for stupid details, just your username
and email address. It actually streams live channels so you dont have
to download any and they have a pretty easy way of finding the channel
you want. You can search through genre, country, region or name of the
channel. oh and there are no ads either. Check this one out. With over
1300 channels from hundreds of countries, loads of features like
channel rating, user recommendations, live chat, profile pages and
much much more.
them offer a free trial or preview and then they make you pay to sign
up, or are cluttered with ads. I think that is ridiculous... so ive
done my research and have found a couple of really decent sites. The
first one Id like to draw your tention to is (viewmy.tv) This site has
almost 1300 channels from around the globe and counting. it is free
to register and they dont ask for stupid details, just your username
and email address. It actually streams live channels so you dont have
to download any and they have a pretty easy way of finding the channel
you want. You can search through genre, country, region or name of the
channel. oh and there are no ads either. Check this one out. With over
1300 channels from hundreds of countries, loads of features like
channel rating, user recommendations, live chat, profile pages and
much much more.
Guest
After testing various TV software and visiting loads of sites. most of
them offer a free trial or preview and then they make you pay to sign
up, or are cluttered with ads. I think that is ridiculous... so ive
done my research and have found a couple of really decent sites. The
first one Id like to draw your tention to is (viewmy.tv) This site has
almost 1300 channels from around the globe and counting. it is free
to register and they dont ask for stupid details, just your username
and email address. It actually streams live channels so you dont have
to download any and they have a pretty easy way of finding the channel
you want. You can search through genre, country, region or name of the
channel. oh and there are no ads either. Check this one out. With over
1300 channels from hundreds of countries, loads of features like
channel rating, user recommendations, live chat, profile pages and
much much more.
them offer a free trial or preview and then they make you pay to sign
up, or are cluttered with ads. I think that is ridiculous... so ive
done my research and have found a couple of really decent sites. The
first one Id like to draw your tention to is (viewmy.tv) This site has
almost 1300 channels from around the globe and counting. it is free
to register and they dont ask for stupid details, just your username
and email address. It actually streams live channels so you dont have
to download any and they have a pretty easy way of finding the channel
you want. You can search through genre, country, region or name of the
channel. oh and there are no ads either. Check this one out. With over
1300 channels from hundreds of countries, loads of features like
channel rating, user recommendations, live chat, profile pages and
much much more.
W
whit3rd
Guest
On Jan 7, 6:12 am, "N Cook" <diver...@gazeta.pl> wrote:
units. Yours has a fractured strain relief boot, I gather.
First, you can knife-trim away any disconnected part of the boot,
'cuz it's just a cable stiffener if it doesn't transfer strain to the
case.
Then you can build up some material using fusion tape (self-
adhering rubbery tape, used for weatherproofing splices).
If the power unit can be opened, you could try to remove the boot
entirely and replace it with (for instance) a short piece of vinyl
(Tygon brand is what we see here) tubing, held in place with
cable ties. If the tubing doesn't friction-fit in the hole, bulk it
up
with a wrap of fusion tape. This kind of solution might not
maintain your warranty, of course.
If appearance isn't important, I've also bent back the cable along the
case and cable-tied it to the case; there won't be any
more cable strain on the boot now! That looks ugly and shortens
the wire, but it's safe and quick. No warranty worries.
Yeah, this is why I hate 'welded shut for your protection' power
units. Yours has a fractured strain relief boot, I gather.
First, you can knife-trim away any disconnected part of the boot,
'cuz it's just a cable stiffener if it doesn't transfer strain to the
case.
Then you can build up some material using fusion tape (self-
adhering rubbery tape, used for weatherproofing splices).
If the power unit can be opened, you could try to remove the boot
entirely and replace it with (for instance) a short piece of vinyl
(Tygon brand is what we see here) tubing, held in place with
cable ties. If the tubing doesn't friction-fit in the hole, bulk it
up
with a wrap of fusion tape. This kind of solution might not
maintain your warranty, of course.
If appearance isn't important, I've also bent back the cable along the
case and cable-tied it to the case; there won't be any
more cable strain on the boot now! That looks ugly and shortens
the wire, but it's safe and quick. No warranty worries.
D
Donna Ohl, Grady Voluntee
Guest
On Sun, 17 Feb 2008 23:25:04 GMT, James Sweet wrote:
Please take a look at the photos uploaded earlier today.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaohl/
Let's learn from this half-day effort replacing the water heater.
We had to make a whole bunch of compromises we had not planned on!
Would our final work pass your inspection?
Why or why not (let's learn from this)?
By the way, just as you guys predicted:
- The drain valve snapped off while the tank was full of hot water
- The plumbing was corroded and broke in multiple places
- The water heater (still full of hot water) tipped over on us
- The anode had dissolved away to the bare steel rod
- The galvanized plumbing was almost completely clogged with rust
- The plumbing retrofit for the much larger heater was difficult
- The dialectric fittings and check valves were useless
etc.
And, a few things you guys didn't predict:
- We found an ancient machete hidden behind the water heater!
- Trying to save the box to put the old heater in isn't worth it
- The cold water leaked due to thread corrosion even tightly screwed on
- Hot water leaked back into the heater when the cold water was shut
- The overflow pipe wasn't installed yet due to a question for you
- We loosened sandy sediment which clogged our showerheads
etc.
Now that we're done, we have MORE QUESTIONS to ask (and hopefully we can
all get the answers together).
Take a look at the photos uploaded earlier today:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaohl/
Let's learn from this half-day job.
Would this hot water heater R&R pass your inspection?
Why or why not?
Donna & Bill
Hi everyone,
Please take a look at the photos uploaded earlier today.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaohl/
Let's learn from this half-day effort replacing the water heater.
We had to make a whole bunch of compromises we had not planned on!
Would our final work pass your inspection?
Why or why not (let's learn from this)?
By the way, just as you guys predicted:
- The drain valve snapped off while the tank was full of hot water
- The plumbing was corroded and broke in multiple places
- The water heater (still full of hot water) tipped over on us
- The anode had dissolved away to the bare steel rod
- The galvanized plumbing was almost completely clogged with rust
- The plumbing retrofit for the much larger heater was difficult
- The dialectric fittings and check valves were useless
etc.
And, a few things you guys didn't predict:
- We found an ancient machete hidden behind the water heater!
- Trying to save the box to put the old heater in isn't worth it
- The cold water leaked due to thread corrosion even tightly screwed on
- Hot water leaked back into the heater when the cold water was shut
- The overflow pipe wasn't installed yet due to a question for you
- We loosened sandy sediment which clogged our showerheads
etc.
Now that we're done, we have MORE QUESTIONS to ask (and hopefully we can
all get the answers together).
Take a look at the photos uploaded earlier today:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaohl/
Let's learn from this half-day job.
Would this hot water heater R&R pass your inspection?
Why or why not?
Donna & Bill
J
James Sweet
Guest
All this talk about water heaters and I came home today to find I had no hot
water. Went out to the garage and found a puddle around the heater and the
flame was out. Fortunately it seems this time it was just a leaking joint on
the flex pipe but it's a reminder that I need to start looking at
replacements.
D
Donna Ohl, Grady Voluntee
Guest
On Wed, 13 Feb 2008 15:10:03 -0800 (PST), hallerb@aol.com wrote:
You've given us the courage to tackle this ourselves!
Bill and I read *every* post here!
To replace our dripping 40-gallon (65-gallon FHR) home water heater, we
bought the best water heater I could find.
This turned out to be the $450 Sears #33154 (actually manufactured by AO
Smith) 97-gallon First Hour Rating (FHR) and 0.63 Energy Factor (EF),
nominally with a 50-gallon tank and coming with a (rather useless) 12-year
warranty on parts and a slightly useful 1-year warranty on labor.
We're going to do the job tomorrow so I'm reading *everything* I can find
on the net on how to properly remove and install a natural gas home hot
water heater. I'll summarize the steps we plan on taking in a subsequent
posting.
So far, Bill bought $686.47 in parts while I write up every step for him
before we do the work tomorrow, together. He will return any unused parts,
but here is what he bought from Sears today to get ready for the job.
$449.00 Sears #33154 50-gallon 12/1 year hot water heater 97FHR .63EF
$ 2.19 1-ounce TFE paste (for the gas pipe fittings)
$ 9.59 3/4-inch quarter-turn water valve (replaces plastic drain valve)
$ 8.99 3/4-inch CSA gas ball valve (for the gas line)
$ 15.99 3/4-inch swing check valve (for additional heat-loss protection)
$ 7.99 18" 3/4-inch by 3/4 inch FIP corrugated copper/brass flex pipe (x2)
$ 7.49 15" 3/4-inch by 3/4 inch FIP corrugated copper/brass flex pipe (x2)
$ 5.99 12" 3/4-inch by 3/4 inch FIP corrugated copper/brass flex pipe (x2)
$ 12.99 18" 3/4-inch stainless-steel water-heater connector pipe (x2)
$ 10.99 12" 3/4-inch stainless-steel water-heater connector pipe (x2)
$ 8.99 3/4-inch by 3/4-inch Dialectric Union B (x4)
$ 3.59 1.5-inch long 3/4-inch male:male brass pipe nipples (x4)
$ 2.39 1.0-inch long 3/4-inch male:male brass pipe nipples (x3)
$ 52.32 sales tax at 8.25%
--------
$686.47 total
The reason for *both* the copper flex pipe and stainless steel pipe is
because the stainless steel might allow us to not need the dialectric
unions which are huge. Remember, the new tank is five inches taller than
the old tank so we are going to have problems with the plumbing most likely
so having fewer nipples and dialectric unions will shorten the lines a bit.
Do we really need to isolate the copper from the brass from the steel?
We assume so.
Also, we bought the extra one-way check valve even though the water heater
apparently comes with heat-loss protectors and we can s-kink the flex lines
(not the steel lines, just the copper lines).
Do you think the one-way hot-water-outlet check valve will work to slow
heat loss?
Note we didn't buy the insulating blanket for the water heater, nor the
insulation for the hot-water pipes yet. We figured we could do that later.
Our biggest question is whether we really needed the dialectric unions.
Since they were female:female, that necessitated brass nipples on each
side, further lengthening the lines which we need to shorten.
What do you think?
Donna & Bill
Thank you for all the advice!
You've given us the courage to tackle this ourselves!
Bill and I read *every* post here!
To replace our dripping 40-gallon (65-gallon FHR) home water heater, we
bought the best water heater I could find.
This turned out to be the $450 Sears #33154 (actually manufactured by AO
Smith) 97-gallon First Hour Rating (FHR) and 0.63 Energy Factor (EF),
nominally with a 50-gallon tank and coming with a (rather useless) 12-year
warranty on parts and a slightly useful 1-year warranty on labor.
We're going to do the job tomorrow so I'm reading *everything* I can find
on the net on how to properly remove and install a natural gas home hot
water heater. I'll summarize the steps we plan on taking in a subsequent
posting.
So far, Bill bought $686.47 in parts while I write up every step for him
before we do the work tomorrow, together. He will return any unused parts,
but here is what he bought from Sears today to get ready for the job.
$449.00 Sears #33154 50-gallon 12/1 year hot water heater 97FHR .63EF
$ 2.19 1-ounce TFE paste (for the gas pipe fittings)
$ 9.59 3/4-inch quarter-turn water valve (replaces plastic drain valve)
$ 8.99 3/4-inch CSA gas ball valve (for the gas line)
$ 15.99 3/4-inch swing check valve (for additional heat-loss protection)
$ 7.99 18" 3/4-inch by 3/4 inch FIP corrugated copper/brass flex pipe (x2)
$ 7.49 15" 3/4-inch by 3/4 inch FIP corrugated copper/brass flex pipe (x2)
$ 5.99 12" 3/4-inch by 3/4 inch FIP corrugated copper/brass flex pipe (x2)
$ 12.99 18" 3/4-inch stainless-steel water-heater connector pipe (x2)
$ 10.99 12" 3/4-inch stainless-steel water-heater connector pipe (x2)
$ 8.99 3/4-inch by 3/4-inch Dialectric Union B (x4)
$ 3.59 1.5-inch long 3/4-inch male:male brass pipe nipples (x4)
$ 2.39 1.0-inch long 3/4-inch male:male brass pipe nipples (x3)
$ 52.32 sales tax at 8.25%
--------
$686.47 total
The reason for *both* the copper flex pipe and stainless steel pipe is
because the stainless steel might allow us to not need the dialectric
unions which are huge. Remember, the new tank is five inches taller than
the old tank so we are going to have problems with the plumbing most likely
so having fewer nipples and dialectric unions will shorten the lines a bit.
Do we really need to isolate the copper from the brass from the steel?
We assume so.
Also, we bought the extra one-way check valve even though the water heater
apparently comes with heat-loss protectors and we can s-kink the flex lines
(not the steel lines, just the copper lines).
Do you think the one-way hot-water-outlet check valve will work to slow
heat loss?
Note we didn't buy the insulating blanket for the water heater, nor the
insulation for the hot-water pipes yet. We figured we could do that later.
Our biggest question is whether we really needed the dialectric unions.
Since they were female:female, that necessitated brass nipples on each
side, further lengthening the lines which we need to shorten.
What do you think?
Donna & Bill
D
Donna Ohl, Grady Voluntee
Guest
On Sat, 16 Feb 2008 22:02:31 -0700, Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator
wrote:
I post this to you *before* we tackle the job tomorrow morning.
Did we miss anything important that you have told us to do?
Is anything out of order that you suggested?
Can we skip any of the steps outlined below?
Your timely advice will help us and anyone following this thread!
Thanks,
Donna
HOT-WATER-HEATER REMOVAL:
While the old dripping hot-water heater is still firmly in place ...
- Shut natural gas at the main gas meter
- Shut natural gas at the local hot-water heater
- Ensure the pilot light is out before separating any gas plumbing lines
- Shut the household cold water at the main water valve
- Shut the cold-water inlet to the hot-water heater
- Open all hot-water faucets in the house to drain off pressure
- Wait two hours, if possible, to allow the hot water in the tank to cool
- Connect a garden hose to the water heater drain valve
- Open drain valve and drain hot water where it will not damage anything
- Disconnect garden hose and close drain valve when done (40 or 50 gallons)
- Unbolt earthquake straps (if any)
- Unscrew the sheet-metal screw holding the vent pipe to the draft hood
- Separate the vent pipe from the draft hood
- Unscrew the cold-water inlet at the nipple at the top of the tank
- Unscrew the hot-water outlet at the nipple at the top of the tank
- Unscrew the natural gas inlet to the water-heater thermostat
- Cap the newly disconnected natural gas line to prevent contamination
- Unscrew sheet-metal screws holding gas-flue hat onto the vent pipe
- Separate the vent pipe from the gas-flue hat
- Remove old heater off the elevated base
- Remove all water plumbing up to and including the old shut-off valve
- Remove all gas plumbing up to and including the old shut-off valve
HOT-WATER-HEATER REPLACEMENT:
While the new hot-water heater is sitting on the garage floor ...
- Remove the plastic drain valve & replace with a brass ball valve
- Install the new temperature and pressure (T&P) relief valve
- Install the relief valve relief pipe
- Always use two wrenches when screwing and unscrewing pipe fittings!
MOUNT THE TANK & POSITION THE VENT AND HOOD:
- Mount and level the new hot water heater on the elevated base
- Ensure at least six inches of clear space all around the new heater
- Hacksaw the old gas vent so that it fits the new larger water heater
- Ensure the gas vent aligns with the center of the hot-water heater
- Insert legs of the draft hood into the holes in the top of the heater
- Drill a 1/8 inch hole into the draft hood and 3-inch vent pipe
- Screw in at least 1 sheet-metal screw from the vent hood to the vent pipe
ATTACH THE COLD WATER INLET:
- Wrap Teflon tape on the threads of the fittings supplied with the tank
- Insert the blue heat-trap fitting (arrow down) into the tank cold-water
inlet
- Ensure the last two threads are never covered with Teflon tape
- Do not use pipe dope on any threads where Teflon tape is noted below
- Screw the cold-water inlet male:male nipple into the top of the tank
- Wrap Teflon tape on the thread of the galvanized 3/4" water-inlet pipe
- Screw a dialectric union on the 3/4" galvanized cold-water inlet pipe
- Wrap Teflon tape on the threads of each male:male brass nipple
- Screw the brass male:male nipple on the female:female dialectric union
- Screw a new ball-valve shutoff onto this vertical cold-water inlet pipe
- Wrap Teflon tape on the threads of another male:male brass nipple
- Screw this male:male nipple into the new ball-valve shutoff
- Screw the copper flex pipe onto the cold-water inlet brass nipples
ATTACH THE HOT WATER OUTLET:
- Wrap Teflon tape on the threads of the fittings supplied with the tank
- Ensure the last two threads are never covered with Teflon tape
- Do not use pipe dope on any threads where Teflon tape is noted below
- Insert the red heat-trap fitting (arrow up) into the tank hot-water
outlet
- Wrap Teflon tape on the thread of the galvanized 3/4" water-outlet pipe
- Screw a dialectric union on the 3/4" galvanized hot-water outlet pipe
- Wrap Teflon tape on the threads of each male:male brass nipple
- Screw the brass male:male nipple on the female:female dialectric union
- Screw a new one-way check-valve onto this vertical hot-water outlet pipe
- Wrap Teflon tape on the threads of another male:male brass nipple
- Screw this male:male nipple into the new ball-valve shutoff
- Screw the copper flex pipe onto the hot-water inlet brass nipples
- Bend the copper flex pipe into an S shape to further inhibit heat loss
TURN ON THE WATER SUPPLY:
- Open all the hot-water faucets in the house to bleed out air
- Open the main cold-water input to the house
- Open the new ball-valve cold-water input to the hot-water heater
- Check for leaks as the tank fills
- Place a pan or bowl at the T&P overflow tube & test the T&P valve
ATTACH THE NATURAL GAS INLET:
- Always connect the natural gas line as the very last step in this process
- Set the thermostat to the off position
- Coat male natural gas line threads with stick pipe dope (never Teflon
tape)
- Ensure the last two threads are not covered with any pipe dope
- Connect the new natural gas flex pipe with shutoff valve to the
thermostat
- Turn on natural gas at the main switch
- Turn on natural gas at the local inlet to the water heater
- Test for leaks by toothbrushing a solution of dish detergent and water
- Read and carefully follow the manufacturer's lighting instructions
INSULATION:
- Wrap additional insulation around your hot-water heater, if desired
- Wrap insulation around your hot-water outlet pipe, if desired
DISPOSAL:
- Call the local garbage or recycling to haul away the old water heater
YEARLY MAINTENANCE:
- Place a pan or bowl at the T&P overflow tube & test the T&P valve
- Shut the natural gas flow valve to your water heater
- Close the cold-water intake at the top of the water heater
- Open at least one hot-water faucet on any level above the water heater
- Connect a garden hose to your hot water heater drain valve
- Open water heater drain valve & empty where hot water won't damage things
- Shut the drain valve when that water runs clear (approx 10 gallons)
- Remove and inspect sacrificial anode (replace if corroded badly)
- Leave the hot water faucet(s) open
- Open the cold-water valve intake to the water heater
- Run hot-water faucets for at least 10 second (or until sputtering stops)
- Turn the natural gas back on and ensure flame ignites in the burner
wrote:
Here are the steps I wrote up for Bill.
I post this to you *before* we tackle the job tomorrow morning.
Did we miss anything important that you have told us to do?
Is anything out of order that you suggested?
Can we skip any of the steps outlined below?
Your timely advice will help us and anyone following this thread!
Thanks,
Donna
HOT-WATER-HEATER REMOVAL:
While the old dripping hot-water heater is still firmly in place ...
- Shut natural gas at the main gas meter
- Shut natural gas at the local hot-water heater
- Ensure the pilot light is out before separating any gas plumbing lines
- Shut the household cold water at the main water valve
- Shut the cold-water inlet to the hot-water heater
- Open all hot-water faucets in the house to drain off pressure
- Wait two hours, if possible, to allow the hot water in the tank to cool
- Connect a garden hose to the water heater drain valve
- Open drain valve and drain hot water where it will not damage anything
- Disconnect garden hose and close drain valve when done (40 or 50 gallons)
- Unbolt earthquake straps (if any)
- Unscrew the sheet-metal screw holding the vent pipe to the draft hood
- Separate the vent pipe from the draft hood
- Unscrew the cold-water inlet at the nipple at the top of the tank
- Unscrew the hot-water outlet at the nipple at the top of the tank
- Unscrew the natural gas inlet to the water-heater thermostat
- Cap the newly disconnected natural gas line to prevent contamination
- Unscrew sheet-metal screws holding gas-flue hat onto the vent pipe
- Separate the vent pipe from the gas-flue hat
- Remove old heater off the elevated base
- Remove all water plumbing up to and including the old shut-off valve
- Remove all gas plumbing up to and including the old shut-off valve
HOT-WATER-HEATER REPLACEMENT:
While the new hot-water heater is sitting on the garage floor ...
- Remove the plastic drain valve & replace with a brass ball valve
- Install the new temperature and pressure (T&P) relief valve
- Install the relief valve relief pipe
- Always use two wrenches when screwing and unscrewing pipe fittings!
MOUNT THE TANK & POSITION THE VENT AND HOOD:
- Mount and level the new hot water heater on the elevated base
- Ensure at least six inches of clear space all around the new heater
- Hacksaw the old gas vent so that it fits the new larger water heater
- Ensure the gas vent aligns with the center of the hot-water heater
- Insert legs of the draft hood into the holes in the top of the heater
- Drill a 1/8 inch hole into the draft hood and 3-inch vent pipe
- Screw in at least 1 sheet-metal screw from the vent hood to the vent pipe
ATTACH THE COLD WATER INLET:
- Wrap Teflon tape on the threads of the fittings supplied with the tank
- Insert the blue heat-trap fitting (arrow down) into the tank cold-water
inlet
- Ensure the last two threads are never covered with Teflon tape
- Do not use pipe dope on any threads where Teflon tape is noted below
- Screw the cold-water inlet male:male nipple into the top of the tank
- Wrap Teflon tape on the thread of the galvanized 3/4" water-inlet pipe
- Screw a dialectric union on the 3/4" galvanized cold-water inlet pipe
- Wrap Teflon tape on the threads of each male:male brass nipple
- Screw the brass male:male nipple on the female:female dialectric union
- Screw a new ball-valve shutoff onto this vertical cold-water inlet pipe
- Wrap Teflon tape on the threads of another male:male brass nipple
- Screw this male:male nipple into the new ball-valve shutoff
- Screw the copper flex pipe onto the cold-water inlet brass nipples
ATTACH THE HOT WATER OUTLET:
- Wrap Teflon tape on the threads of the fittings supplied with the tank
- Ensure the last two threads are never covered with Teflon tape
- Do not use pipe dope on any threads where Teflon tape is noted below
- Insert the red heat-trap fitting (arrow up) into the tank hot-water
outlet
- Wrap Teflon tape on the thread of the galvanized 3/4" water-outlet pipe
- Screw a dialectric union on the 3/4" galvanized hot-water outlet pipe
- Wrap Teflon tape on the threads of each male:male brass nipple
- Screw the brass male:male nipple on the female:female dialectric union
- Screw a new one-way check-valve onto this vertical hot-water outlet pipe
- Wrap Teflon tape on the threads of another male:male brass nipple
- Screw this male:male nipple into the new ball-valve shutoff
- Screw the copper flex pipe onto the hot-water inlet brass nipples
- Bend the copper flex pipe into an S shape to further inhibit heat loss
TURN ON THE WATER SUPPLY:
- Open all the hot-water faucets in the house to bleed out air
- Open the main cold-water input to the house
- Open the new ball-valve cold-water input to the hot-water heater
- Check for leaks as the tank fills
- Place a pan or bowl at the T&P overflow tube & test the T&P valve
ATTACH THE NATURAL GAS INLET:
- Always connect the natural gas line as the very last step in this process
- Set the thermostat to the off position
- Coat male natural gas line threads with stick pipe dope (never Teflon
tape)
- Ensure the last two threads are not covered with any pipe dope
- Connect the new natural gas flex pipe with shutoff valve to the
thermostat
- Turn on natural gas at the main switch
- Turn on natural gas at the local inlet to the water heater
- Test for leaks by toothbrushing a solution of dish detergent and water
- Read and carefully follow the manufacturer's lighting instructions
INSULATION:
- Wrap additional insulation around your hot-water heater, if desired
- Wrap insulation around your hot-water outlet pipe, if desired
DISPOSAL:
- Call the local garbage or recycling to haul away the old water heater
YEARLY MAINTENANCE:
- Place a pan or bowl at the T&P overflow tube & test the T&P valve
- Shut the natural gas flow valve to your water heater
- Close the cold-water intake at the top of the water heater
- Open at least one hot-water faucet on any level above the water heater
- Connect a garden hose to your hot water heater drain valve
- Open water heater drain valve & empty where hot water won't damage things
- Shut the drain valve when that water runs clear (approx 10 gallons)
- Remove and inspect sacrificial anode (replace if corroded badly)
- Leave the hot water faucet(s) open
- Open the cold-water valve intake to the water heater
- Run hot-water faucets for at least 10 second (or until sputtering stops)
- Turn the natural gas back on and ensure flame ignites in the burner
H
hallerb@aol.com
Guest
I have repaired machines my entire life, i am 51 my vans are mid 90s
but try to maintain them I dont buy new vehicles. I prefer to fix non
critical appliances
mostly i have 2 of everything so when one breaks i use the back up.
2 washers, 2 dryers, 2 vans, 2 lawn mowers, spare tools, spare
everything. if it werent for space i would have 2 hot water tanks, and
2 dishwashers
my basement where the hot water tank lives is my shop for my business,
i sell and service office equiptement.
so i really dont want a basement full of water even a foot would be
bad, and the moisture ruin inventory.
having had a hot water tank fail on christmas eve, in a snow storm
with family coming to stay i would much prefer to replace a tank early
in the morning on a spring day
warm dry comfy. no stress.
now lets look at the economics of tank replacement
DIY a 400 buck tank thats replaced in 8 years nets a cost of 50 bucks
a year.
thats less than a decent candy bar a week...........
plus the new tank has better efficency and doesnt boil when heating.
my current tank has started doing that......... wife doesnt like the
noise, it can be heard upstairs.
did you know a person who buys a brand new mid priced car every 5
years, in a lifetime spends about $250,000 just on new car purchase.
now does my 400 buck purchase compare?
incidently we have some tough to get at light fixtures here, when one
bulb burns out i replace them all. I prefer all fixtures to have
multiple bulbs, when one burns out theres still enough light to see
E
Edwin Pawlowski
Guest
Thee are some codes as to what materials can be used. I doubt your job will
be better.
We're waiting to hear the results though. Bill should have taken his
"first" hot shower hours ago.