Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

Arfa Daily <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:wfZ0j.606$8k2.598@newsfe4-win.ntli.net...
"N Cook" <diverse8@gazeta.pl> wrote in message
news:fi112n$kpk$1@inews.gazeta.pl...
I decided to take a skew view before wiring in

http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/ful-fi4.jpg
2 rings of green silicone rubber sleeving to take silvered wires before
dabs
of gummy glue.
One black rubber pad chamfered to rest in the top cover, yellow-white
rubber
pad cut down , orginal brown rubbery moulding that enclosed both
original
rochelle crystals and extensions to both stylii saddles.
The saphire of the original remounted ( coded yellow and green) stylus
is
just visible to the top and right of the brown section, through a gap in
the
white plastic casing.
The original small plastic stylus saddle went quite neatly through the
hole
for the original rochelle.
The now unused second brass screw mount for the other stylus and its
corresponding saddle rest flat, on the brown section, is visible on the
lower edge.
Decided to wire in only one active element of the Sonotone and also to
have
more space to play with ditch the 78 option and just use 2 of the
original
3
pins and plates to the outside. It is very critical on signal
generation
on
how much the rubber supports are compressed, I may cut the thickness
down
a
bit if the sound is ropey.
It would probably be possible, in space terms, to separate the 2
sonotone
and mount one either side and retain double stylus, rotating function.



I wish I could make enough money in the repair business, to have time to
'play' like this ... !! d;~}

Arfa
Click to expand...
Googling for what a Rochellle crystal should look like I found someone else
has gone down this route
http://www3.sympatico.ca/belanger.eric/Radios/cartridge.htm
completely different internals

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/
 
On Nov 21, 12:36 pm, "Mr. Land" <grafton...@yahoo.com> wrote:
Hi, I'm looking for opinions on the following, thanks.

We're making the move to OTA DTV for our whole house, having weaned
off cable. I have a decent antenna mounted on our roof with a
rotator. There's a Channel Master amp mounted at the antenna also. I
haven't measured distances so I can't quote specific cable lengths, so
I'll just state that our house is a garden-variety, 2-story Colonial.
I've been using this antenna w/ our main TV and the results have been
very good. My current assignment is to now distribute this signal to
other outlets in the house.

I'm using RG-6 for everything.

The antenna cable runs out of the amp on the mast down into the wall
behind our plasma. There, I'm splitting it: one half to the plasma,
the other continuing down into the basement, then to my electrical
panel at the opposite corner of the house.

When the house was built all the bedrooms were wired for cable tv.
All of these cables feed in-wall "F" outlets and meet at the panel in
the basement. Currently there are 6 of them.

My first assumption was that, since I am splitting behind the plasma,
then running an approx -3dB signal down to the panel, I'd be better
off with a distribution amplifier there (rather than a splitter), so I
picked up an 8-output unit (Channel Master 3045).

The dealer stated that I MUST terminate any unused outputs of the
dist. amp., or I would "lose power". I'm not sure I follow this -
wouldn't unterminated outputs cause ringing, rather than a loss of
output? Or would one cause the other?

If I used a passive splitter at the panel instead, would its unused
outputs also need to be terminated?

I did note that the 8-way passive splitter previously installed by our
cable company had several unused outlets, none of which they bothered
to terminate. I wonder if they're ignorant, lazy, cheap, or this
termination business is a myth.

Thanks for any advice/insight...
Click to expand...
Good practice calls for all non used outputs to be terminated,
particularly at an amplifier.

An unterminated output will cause a portion of the signal to be
reflected back up the cable towards the source of the signal. Since
the unterminated outputs you are considering are right at an
amplifier, these reflections will transfer back into the amplifier and
cause a loss of signal quality on the other amplified outputs.

The reason that the cable companies can get away with not terminating
a splitter is that the reflections are not significantly transfered to
the other outputs of the splitter, but back up the cable. The typical
isolation between input to output on an 8 way splitter is ~10 db, but
the isolation between outputs is typically about 24db significantly
reducing the impact of the reflected energy. The reflection is
prevented from getting back into the cable coming to the house because
each house is isolated from the trunk down the street by a drop tap
isolation of between 24 and 48 db.
 
I would try it without the terminations to save money. If the
pictures on the sets on the outputs of the downstream amplifier are
ok, you have saved a few bucks. If the picture quality is not what
you are expecting, then the first thing to do is to terminate the
unused outputs.

H. R.(Bob) Hofmann
 
hr(bob) hofmann@att.net wrote:

I would try it without the terminations to save money. If the
pictures on the sets on the outputs of the downstream amplifier are
ok, you have saved a few bucks. If the picture quality is not what
you are expecting, then the first thing to do is to terminate the
unused outputs.

H. R.(Bob) Hofmann
Click to expand...
Wow. I'm pretty frugal, but ...

--
The e-mail address in our reply-to line is reversed in an attempt to
minimize spam. Our true address is of the form che...@prodigy.net.
 
On Nov 21, 9:48 pm, CJT <abujl...@prodigy.net> wrote:
hr(bob) hofm...@att.net wrote:
I would try it without the terminations to save money. If the
pictures on the sets on the outputs of the downstream amplifier are
ok, you have saved a few bucks. If the picture quality is not what
you are expecting, then the first thing to do is to terminate the
unused outputs.

H. R.(Bob) Hofmann

Wow. I'm pretty frugal, but ...

--
The e-mail address in our reply-to line is reversed in an attempt to
minimize spam. Our true address is of the form che...@prodigy.net.
Click to expand...
Well, he asked!!
 
"Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator" <donna.ohl@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

BTW, where does the 150 psi come from?
I thought incoming water was about 80 psi.
Does just the fact we're heating the water raise the pressure?
Why? It's only 120 degrees (merely hot); not 212 degrees (boiling).

Does the pressure of the hot water rise to 120 psi while the pressure of
the cold water remains at 80 psi?
Click to expand...
Water expands when heated... Older systems allow that pressure to go back into
the supply line towards the street. newer systems have check valves.
 
On Mon, 18 Feb 2008 19:57:10 -0700, Rick Blaine wrote:
Does the pressure of the hot water rise to 120 psi while the pressure of
the cold water remains at 80 psi?

Water expands when heated... Older systems allow that pressure to go back into
the supply line towards the street. newer systems have check valves.
Click to expand...
Hi Rick,

I was wondering why BOTH the hot water outlet and the cold-water inlet had
check valves built into the respective dialectric nipples provided in the
top of the new tank!

Are you saying the hot-water check valve prevents hot water from leaking up
the pipe for efficiency reasons; while the cold-water check valve prevents
hot water from leaking backward into the supply line?

If the pressure is 150 psi inside the tank, what is the pressure the hot
water is coming out? Is it at 150 psi while the cold water remains at 80
psi? I find that hard to believe, empirically.

Donna
 
On Mon, 18 Feb 2008 15:31:12 -0800 (PST), hallerb@aol.com wrote:
Doesn't it still need to be grounded to the tank?
yes it does,,,,,,,,,,,, no metal to metal contact no protection.....
Click to expand...
In addition to the prior quoted article from Rheem which says to use Teflon
tape on the sacrificial anode, these guys on the plumbing forum ran an
experiment by wrapping 20 layers of Teflon tape around a threaded coupling
and then measuring the electrical resistance:
http://www.plbg.com/forum/read.php?1,285316

Here's what they say about it.
Donna

"I just put about 20 layers of teflon tape on each end of a nipple and
tightened one into female galv an one end into female copper. I then used a
multimeter to measure the resistance from one fitting to the other, through
the two teflon-tape joints. The resistance was less than a tenth of an ohm
(i.e. short circuit).

When I did the same across a dielectric union, I got about 2 mega-ohms
(i.e. there's just a tiny bit of conduction through the water, but the
metals aren't touching)

So the business about teflon tape being just as good as a dielectric union
is complete nonsense. The threads just cut through the teflon. It may work
in some cases, but it won't work in others and should not be recommended.

What's amazing to me is that there are all these "old plumbers' tales" out
there, so people are arguing about whether brass or teflon or stainless are
good or bad. Shouldn't this be scientifically determined? I realize that
corrosion happens over many years, but still, there must be ways of
measuring corrosion in the lab. It shouldn't be a matter of opinion or
first-person stories (anecdotal evidence)."
 
Mr. Land wrote:

Hi, I'm looking for opinions on the following, thanks.

We're making the move to OTA DTV for our whole house, having weaned
off cable. I have a decent antenna mounted on our roof with a
rotator. There's a Channel Master amp mounted at the antenna also. I
haven't measured distances so I can't quote specific cable lengths, so
I'll just state that our house is a garden-variety, 2-story Colonial.
I've been using this antenna w/ our main TV and the results have been
very good. My current assignment is to now distribute this signal to
other outlets in the house.

I'm using RG-6 for everything.

The antenna cable runs out of the amp on the mast down into the wall
behind our plasma. There, I'm splitting it: one half to the plasma,
the other continuing down into the basement, then to my electrical
panel at the opposite corner of the house.

When the house was built all the bedrooms were wired for cable tv.
All of these cables feed in-wall "F" outlets and meet at the panel in
the basement. Currently there are 6 of them.

My first assumption was that, since I am splitting behind the plasma,
then running an approx -3dB signal down to the panel, I'd be better
off with a distribution amplifier there (rather than a splitter), so I
picked up an 8-output unit (Channel Master 3045).
Click to expand...
I would have used an amplifier just after your 1->2 split after the plasma,
and then just a 1->6 passive splitter after the long run. That way, you aren't
amplifying any noise picked up along the long distance run, and you don't have
to worry about termination. JMO.




The dealer stated that I MUST terminate any unused outputs of the
dist. amp., or I would "lose power". I'm not sure I follow this -
wouldn't unterminated outputs cause ringing, rather than a loss of
output? Or would one cause the other?

If I used a passive splitter at the panel instead, would its unused
outputs also need to be terminated?

I did note that the 8-way passive splitter previously installed by our
cable company had several unused outlets, none of which they bothered
to terminate. I wonder if they're ignorant, lazy, cheap, or this
termination business is a myth.

Thanks for any advice/insight...
Click to expand...
 
Watch Television Online

Watch international television online, webcasts, podcasts and
vodcasts. Listen to satellite radio. Buy movies, books, games,
software and gifts from online store. ABC News, Elle Magazine, Car and
Driver, Road and Track, Billboard magazine online.

http://www.goodtimessociety.net/
 
On Mon, 18 Feb 2008 18:00:09 -0700, Bob M. wrote:
I remember from boats that the sacrificial anode needs a good solid ground
connection to the engine or transmission block.
Yes, and it is even with a layer of teflon tape. Can be easily tested with
a meter. If someone's really concerned, use anti-seize compound available
at auto parts places. It's used for spark plugs.
Click to expand...
I think "grounded" might not be the right word; but the anode must be
"connected" electrically to the tank as a requirement for its purpose.

I do remember in my research last week (oh so long ago) one article where
guys tested it with an ohmmeter and found that Teflon tape didn't hurt the
anodic action.

Here's one article that says distinctly to use Teflon on the anode:
http://www.inspectorsjournal.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=2431

There it says:
"Remove the old anode rod with a 1 and 1/16 inch six-sided wrench or
socket. Do NOT use a 12-point wrench or socket or you will strip the head
of the anode. Get at least a 24-inch cheater bar. I keep a piece of 3/4
inch black iron pipe in the garage just for this purpose. Place the cheater
pipe over the socket handle. Have someone hold the water heater while you
slowly break the seal. Once broken, the anode removes quite easily."

It goes on to talk about the Teflon:
"Replace with a new anode rod. It is a 3/4-inch National Pipe Thread (NPT)
part. You may find one at any plumbing house or home store. Use pipe sealer
or Teflon tape to seal the threads. Snug it down tightly. Remember the
water heater builds up 150 PSI of pressure inside the tank."

BTW, where does the 150 psi come from?
I thought incoming water was about 80 psi.
Does just the fact we're heating the water raise the pressure?
Why? It's only 120 degrees (merely hot); not 212 degrees (boiling).

Does the pressure of the hot water rise to 120 psi while the pressure of
the cold water remains at 80 psi?
 
On 11/23/07 10:00 AM, in article
3b34beea-9432-4624-a232-cea3b6148183@e25g2000prg.googlegroups.com, "legalize
it" <guzzler.beer@yahoo.com> wrote:

The pedophilia scare is a fake. It is not harmful. That is why they
refuse to allow anyone to discuss the issue openly. It would reveal
that there is evidence that it is harmless and can be
beneficial.

check out these sources:


Anthropologist Gilbert Herdt on the culture of the Sambia people.


The Rind Report written by two Temple University psychology
professors.


"Harmful to Minors" by journalist Judith Levine


"Love Against Hate" by Karl Meninger, M.D.


It is even mentioned as common practice in the opera Don Giovanni by
Mozart.


There are more sources. Have you ever noticed that only westerners
are
arrested overseas? The locals never are.


The sex hysteria is being used as a government diversion tactic to
distract the people
from the failings of the government and to make them fear the
government.
Click to expand...
You are a sick SOB.

Go away!
 
Let's be blunt about this.

In Western countries, children are not legally considered adults. They are
not assumed capable of making rational decisions. Therefore, there cannot be
"consensual" sexual behavior between children and adults.
 
In article <DYednWJ0cJpxitXanZ2dnUVZ_tWtnZ2d@comcast.com>,
William Sommerwerck <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote:
In Western countries, children are not legally considered adults. They
are not assumed capable of making rational decisions. Therefore, there
cannot be "consensual" sexual behavior between children and adults.
Click to expand...
The big problem is defining a child. Even 'civilised' countries have
different legal age of consent. I think it should be 30. ;-)

--
*Happiness is seeing your mother-in-law on a milk carton

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
 
"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:
In article <DYednWJ0cJpxitXanZ2dnUVZ_tWtnZ2d@comcast.com>,
William Sommerwerck <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote:
In Western countries, children are not legally considered adults. They
are not assumed capable of making rational decisions. Therefore, there
cannot be "consensual" sexual behavior between children and adults.

The big problem is defining a child. Even 'civilised' countries have
different legal age of consent. I think it should be 30. ;-)
Click to expand...


From what I've seen on Usenet lately, it should be 100.


--
Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to
prove it.
Member of DAV #85.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida
 
"Charlie Bress" <left@thirdbase.com> wrote in message
news:bqydneJTAqnyQdTanZ2dnUVZ_i2dnZ2d@comcast.com...
This is a fairly old Panasonic microwave.
It does all the usual things that it is asked to do.
It heats.
The timer times.
The turntable rotates.

It seems to have developed a mind of its own.

Occasionally, after it is through heating and shuts off it does something
strange.

When the door is opened, the interior light comes on again and the
turntable
starts turning.
During this time it is not trying to heat. The off button does not affect
this action. Close the door and the light goes out and the turntable
stops.
After a bit it reverts back to normal and stays truly off as expected.

Is this phenomenon governed by the control electronics, which would
probably
call for a replacement microwave or is it caused be the failure or
misadjustment of one or more of the mechanical switches that could be
remedied by a DIYer?

Charlie
Click to expand...

I would check all the door switches, relays, look for cracked solder joints
or bad electrolytic capacitors on the control board. It's probably something
you can fix.
 
On Nov 25, 2:34 pm, "Charlie Bress" <l...@thirdbase.com> wrote:
This is a fairly old Panasonic microwave.
When the door is opened, the interior light comes on again and the turntable
starts turning.
Click to expand...
before this problem, did the light normally stay off when door was
opened?
(my old GE microwave oven always turns the light "on" when the door
is opened)
 
forgot to mention in previous post, have you taken the cover off
and looked inside for a schematic? (there was one inside my
old GE mw oven)

if you find one, look at what controls the turntable.
 
"James Sweet" <jamessweet@hotmail.com> writes:

"Charlie Bress" <left@thirdbase.com> wrote in message
news:bqydneJTAqnyQdTanZ2dnUVZ_i2dnZ2d@comcast.com...
This is a fairly old Panasonic microwave.
It does all the usual things that it is asked to do.
It heats.
The timer times.
The turntable rotates.

It seems to have developed a mind of its own.

Occasionally, after it is through heating and shuts off it does something
strange.

When the door is opened, the interior light comes on again and the
turntable
starts turning.
During this time it is not trying to heat. The off button does not affect
this action. Close the door and the light goes out and the turntable
stops.
After a bit it reverts back to normal and stays truly off as expected.

Is this phenomenon governed by the control electronics, which would
probably
call for a replacement microwave or is it caused be the failure or
misadjustment of one or more of the mechanical switches that could be
remedied by a DIYer?

Charlie

I would check all the door switches, relays, look for cracked solder joints
or bad electrolytic capacitors on the control board. It's probably something
you can fix.
Click to expand...
I may be a flakey door interlock switch.

I have one that does something similar, though I've never gotten around
to actually figuring out what's going on.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included in the
subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.
 
"James Sweet" <jamessweet@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:atouj.5014$_T3.3895@trnddc07...
"Bob M." <no@nospam.com> wrote in message
news:0cSdnQ18vbThnyfanZ2dnUVZ_qainZ2d@bresnan.com...
"Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator" <donna.ohl@sbcglobal.net> wrote
in message news:Hjhuj.8178$5K1.598@newssvr12.news.prodigy.net...

2. Even Superman couldn't would have a tough time removing mine ...
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2033/2274085498_52c3b7d618.jpg?v=0

Given it took a pipe wrench plus a huge cheater bar to remove the anode
with the water heater removed and blocked on the ground ... and given
that

On your new heater, take the anode out and wrap the threads once with
teflon tape or anti-seize compound. Much easier to remove the next time;
still provides protection too.

Doesn't it still need to be grounded to the tank?

I remember from boats that the sacrificial anode needs a good solid ground
connection to the engine or transmission block.
Click to expand...


Yes, and it is even with a layer of teflon tape. Can be easily tested with
a meter. If someone's really concerned, use anti-seize compound available
at auto parts places. It's used for spark plugs.
 
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