Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

Franc Zabkar wrote:

On 19 Dec 2006 07:40:57 -0800, helee4@hotmail.com put finger to
keyboard and composed:


Franc Zabkar wrote:
On 18 Dec 2006 14:32:50 -0800, helee4@hotmail.com put finger to
keyboard and composed:


Homer J Simpson wrote:
helee4@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1166467960.828169.79030@n67g2000cwd.googlegroups.com...

I have a R/C car reciever (Kyosho Mini-z) which has become very poor
range recently. I have checked battery both on the transmitter and at
the car, crystal, and wiring, they all seems to be fine. The symptom
is if I have both the transmitter and the car switched on, the car will
twitch (the servo) badly, and the motor is start to running on its own
without me pressing anything.

What happens if the transmitter is switched off?

The car will totally stop twitching. So, I thougt it could be
transmitter that was bad, but I tried with 3 different transmitter and
still the same... Looks as if the receiver has problem treating the
incoming signal?

This makes no sense. AFAIK the transmitter should not transmit
anything until you move the joystick, otherwise its 9V (?) battery
would quickly go flat.

- Franc Zabkar

Franc, the transmitter for radio control car would start transmitting
immediately after you turned on, that's why it is a MUST for hobbist to
switch on transmitter before turning on the car.

I've repaired quite a few toy R/C cars and don't recall ever
encountering one where the transmitter would transmit continuously
without user action. In fact some remotes had no on/off switch. Maybe
your hobbyist vehicles behave differently, but it still begs the
question, what is it that the transmitter is transmitting? I can
understand it signalling forward/reverse/left/right/turbo, but why
would it signal a "do nothing" command?

- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 'i' from my address when replying by email.

I would think the hobby grade transmitter are quite different than the
toy grade RC. With the hobby grade transmitter, they are not only with
4 signal, but are propportional. So, there are steer trim and throttle
trim noob/button so that you adjust the car's alignment or throttle at
its neutral position. So, it is also dangerous for nitro or high power
electric car to switch on the power on the car first before the
transmitter is on. I don't exactly know how things work, but I think
the transmitter should be on to keep the car in neutral position before
applying throttle or steering.

But back to my very desperate question [I have no car to play for
almost two weeks now :-( ], I have heard from other hobbyists
mentioned when they have the powered on transmitter antenna
accidentally touch the antenna would fry the car's receiver; and I have
heard they fix the receiver by replace an inductor. I guess the
inductor on the circuit board usually begin with "L"? Do you think I
can check if the inductors are blown without investing with a probe or
occiloscope by using just a DMM?

 

[Don Bowey]

On 12/20/06 5:55 PM, in article
1166666129.965506.257410@i12g2000cwa.googlegroups.com, "helee4@hotmail.com"
<helee4@hotmail.com> wrote:

Franc Zabkar wrote:
On 19 Dec 2006 07:40:57 -0800, helee4@hotmail.com put finger to
keyboard and composed:


Franc Zabkar wrote:
On 18 Dec 2006 14:32:50 -0800, helee4@hotmail.com put finger to
keyboard and composed:


Homer J Simpson wrote:
helee4@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1166467960.828169.79030@n67g2000cwd.googlegroups.com...

I have a R/C car reciever (Kyosho Mini-z) which has become very poor
range recently. I have checked battery both on the transmitter and at
the car, crystal, and wiring, they all seems to be fine. The symptom
is if I have both the transmitter and the car switched on, the car will
twitch (the servo) badly, and the motor is start to running on its own
without me pressing anything.

What happens if the transmitter is switched off?

The car will totally stop twitching. So, I thougt it could be
transmitter that was bad, but I tried with 3 different transmitter and
still the same... Looks as if the receiver has problem treating the
incoming signal?

This makes no sense. AFAIK the transmitter should not transmit
anything until you move the joystick, otherwise its 9V (?) battery
would quickly go flat.

- Franc Zabkar

Franc, the transmitter for radio control car would start transmitting
immediately after you turned on, that's why it is a MUST for hobbist to
switch on transmitter before turning on the car.

I've repaired quite a few toy R/C cars and don't recall ever
encountering one where the transmitter would transmit continuously
without user action. In fact some remotes had no on/off switch. Maybe
your hobbyist vehicles behave differently, but it still begs the
question, what is it that the transmitter is transmitting? I can
understand it signalling forward/reverse/left/right/turbo, but why
would it signal a "do nothing" command?

- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 'i' from my address when replying by email.

I would think the hobby grade transmitter are quite different than the
toy grade RC. With the hobby grade transmitter, they are not only with
4 signal, but are propportional. So, there are steer trim and throttle
trim noob/button so that you adjust the car's alignment or throttle at
its neutral position. So, it is also dangerous for nitro or high power
electric car to switch on the power on the car first before the
transmitter is on. I don't exactly know how things work, but I think
the transmitter should be on to keep the car in neutral position before
applying throttle or steering.

But back to my very desperate question [I have no car to play for
almost two weeks now :-( ], I have heard from other hobbyists
mentioned when they have the powered on transmitter antenna
accidentally touch the antenna would fry the car's receiver; and I have
heard they fix the receiver by replace an inductor. I guess the
inductor on the circuit board usually begin with "L"? Do you think I
can check if the inductors are blown without investing with a probe or
occiloscope by using just a DMM?

Are you certain the transmitter and receiver are on the same frequency?

 

[James Sweet]

Michael Kennedy wrote:

Sorry everone that was supposed to be an e-mail to a friend.

I guess shouldn't get in such a hurry..

- Mike

Heh could have been worse...

 

[James Sweet]

And the crap that is returned to them they resell on in pallet loads where
it all winds up on eBay. "As is" or "I didn't have time to check if it
works" are eBay phrases which mean "If you buy it you're boned".

Often yes, however I've ebayed plenty of things as-is that I just didn't
feel were worth my time to hook up and check out thoroughly.

 

[Mark D. Zacharias]

jrgreene1968@suddenlink.net wrote:

Hello, i have a problem with a 3801 denon receiver, ..I bought this
receiver from a guy on the internet, said to be in exellent shape,
when it arrived, i plugged it in and it will not do anything, no
display, no standby light, no click when you hit power switch
nothing. I have checked all 7 fuses on the receiver with an ohm
meter, they are all ok. checked voltage where power cord plugs into
board, shows 120 volts, if you unplug receiver and checked switched
outlet on back of receiver, the outles show open with ohm meter,
unplug yellow and white wire on transformer to board and now switched
outlets are no longer reading open....does this sound like a power
transformer, any way to test?

OK, tried to send you the manual - it bounced because it was too big. I'l
split it and send it in 2 parts.

Mark Z.

 

[JW]

On 20 Dec 2006 17:55:30 -0800 helee4@hotmail.com wrote in Message id:
<1166666129.965506.257410@i12g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>:

So, it is also dangerous for nitro or high power
electric car to switch on the power on the car first before the
transmitter is on.

From what I remember when I was a boy flying R/C planes (back in the late
70's), switching on the transmitter first keeps the servos from getting
"jammed" at the far end of their travel, possibly damaging the gears.
Whether this was a myth or not, or whether the current crop of RC stuff is
subject to this...?

FWIW, I have seen them lurch suddenly in one direction when turning on the
transmitter after the receiver. (I just HAD to try it

 

[oddsey]

......A lot worse...
The last time he did that, he posted a picture.... I would show you,
but don't want to embarrass the dwarf or the donkey that were in the
picture as well!!
All I'll say is that it involved a marrow, peanut butter and some
sexy underwear, as well as the dwarf, the donkey and James in a very
compromising position!!!!!




PS. This is a JOKE! ( Just in case he has been in a similar
situation!!!)

 

[oddsey]

Ooops!
That should have said Michael, not James!!

Phil.

 

[Franc Zabkar]

On 20 Dec 2006 17:55:30 -0800, helee4@hotmail.com put finger to
keyboard and composed:

I have heard from other hobbyists
mentioned when they have the powered on transmitter antenna
accidentally touch the antenna would fry the car's receiver; and I have
heard they fix the receiver by replace an inductor. I guess the
inductor on the circuit board usually begin with "L"? Do you think I
can check if the inductors are blown without investing with a probe or
occiloscope by using just a DMM?

A simple DMM will only tell you if the inductor is open circuit. It
cannot distinguish between a good inductor and one with shorted turns.

- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 'i' from my address when replying by email.

 

[Morse]

<jimp@specsol.spam.sux.com> wrote in message
news:ap1s54-dod.ln1@mail.specsol.com...

In sci.physics Morse <morse@rpa.com> wrote:

jimp@specsol.spam.sux.com> wrote in message
news:r4nr54-utf.ln1@mail.specsol.com...

Haven't looked at TV's in 20 or 30 years?


Well I have- I used to service them and still do occasionally. Turning
them
off at the mains does not cause loss of user settings or channels.

If the TV has a CRT, when it is "off", it will have low voltage applied
to the CRT filament to reduce the warm up time.


I can't say I've ever seen a modern TV that keeps the CRT heaters
running
while on standby, apart from a really ancient Pye B/W portable I once
came
across. It would cause a considerable reduction in CRT life for no valid
reason.

They don't run at full voltage when in standby.

Anything made in the past 10 years of so will have time functions,
local channel selections, and various other settings in RAM that all
go away if the set is unplugged.


Every modern TV I've seen holds channels and user settings in NVR and
they
aren't lost if you power it off. It's been about 20 years since I saw a
TV
which had volatile memory for the channel settings, and even then it was
backed up by internal NiCad button cells.

Except for the CRT, the same can be said of any recent DVD
or VHS
player, tuner/amp, or bread maker.


You're seriously saying that every time there's a power cut or you have
to
shut off the mains for any reason you have to readjust and retune your
TVs,
Videos, DVD players etc?

Yep, all the station/channel presets and all the clock/timer functions.

There is obviously cap backup on most of them since a short flicker
usually doesn't cause a reset.


Yeah, the manufacturer could have put in battery backup, but they
don't.


They don't need to- they use NVR (non-volatile RAM). Video recorders will
lose their clock settings (not their tuned stations) if powered off long
enough to flatten the battery backup or supercap, and some cheap ones
will
lose the clock setting instantly, but I've yet to see a modern TV or
tuner/amp which will lose stations if unplugged..

We have 8 TVs in our house and they have all been unplugged for prolonged
periods at one time or another. I've never had to retune any of them
since
buying them, nor have I had to readjust the user settings. The brands are
Philips, Sony, Toshiba, Samsung and Daewoo, ranging from around 150 quid
to
a 2000 quid RPTV.

Morse

I have 2 TV's, 2 VHS/DVD machines, 1 DVD machine, a tuner/amp, and a
bread machine of ages from 2 to about 20 years.

Every one of them goes to the factory defaults if the power is gone long
enough.

Either you are the luckiest guy in the world or there are regulations
in the UK that don't exist in the US.

I've crossposted this to sci.electronics.repair, maybe someone there can
shed some light on this.

Morse

 

[Mark D. Zacharias]

JR wrote:

Mark D. Zacharias wrote:
jrgreene1968@suddenlink.net wrote:
Hello, i have a problem with a 3801 denon receiver, ..I bought this
receiver from a guy on the internet, said to be in exellent shape,
when it arrived, i plugged it in and it will not do anything, no
display, no standby light, no click when you hit power switch
nothing. I have checked all 7 fuses on the receiver with an ohm
meter, they are all ok. checked voltage where power cord plugs into
board, shows 120 volts, if you unplug receiver and checked switched
outlet on back of receiver, the outles show open with ohm meter,
unplug yellow and white wire on transformer to board and now
switched outlets are no longer reading open....does this sound like
a power transformer, any way to test?

OK, tried to send you the manual - it bounced because it was too
big. I'l split it and send it in 2 parts.

Mark Z.

man i really appreciate it...it looks like i have a bad relay, im
gonna get on the phone and see if i can find parts

Actually had to split it into about 6 parts. What a pain.These PDF split
programs could be better designed. One has to experiment with page ranges,
etc to get an acceptable size. Could be done better with a graphical
interface.

I really doubt you have a bad relay, more likely a circuit board crack.

Mark Z.

 

[M Berger]

A lot of modern televisions reset on loss of power.
It's not unusual.

Morse wrote:

jimp@specsol.spam.sux.com> wrote in message
news:ap1s54-dod.ln1@mail.specsol.com...
In sci.physics Morse <morse@rpa.com> wrote:

jimp@specsol.spam.sux.com> wrote in message
news:r4nr54-utf.ln1@mail.specsol.com...
Haven't looked at TV's in 20 or 30 years?

Well I have- I used to service them and still do occasionally. Turning
them
off at the mains does not cause loss of user settings or channels.
If the TV has a CRT, when it is "off", it will have low voltage applied
to the CRT filament to reduce the warm up time.

 

[Arfa Daily]

"Mark D. Zacharias" <spammenot@nonsense.net> wrote in message
news:OrPih.2018$x67.528@newssvr17.news.prodigy.net...

JR wrote:
Mark D. Zacharias wrote:
jrgreene1968@suddenlink.net wrote:
Hello, i have a problem with a 3801 denon receiver, ..I bought this
receiver from a guy on the internet, said to be in exellent shape,
when it arrived, i plugged it in and it will not do anything, no
display, no standby light, no click when you hit power switch
nothing. I have checked all 7 fuses on the receiver with an ohm
meter, they are all ok. checked voltage where power cord plugs into
board, shows 120 volts, if you unplug receiver and checked switched
outlet on back of receiver, the outles show open with ohm meter,
unplug yellow and white wire on transformer to board and now
switched outlets are no longer reading open....does this sound like
a power transformer, any way to test?

OK, tried to send you the manual - it bounced because it was too
big. I'l split it and send it in 2 parts.

Mark Z.

man i really appreciate it...it looks like i have a bad relay, im
gonna get on the phone and see if i can find parts

Actually had to split it into about 6 parts. What a pain.These PDF split
programs could be better designed. One has to experiment with page ranges,
etc to get an acceptable size. Could be done better with a graphical
interface.

I really doubt you have a bad relay, more likely a circuit board crack.

Mark Z.

Agreed

Arfa

 

[Gary]

She had something connected to every input. Couldn't get a picture on
any ports.

Homer J Simpson wrote:

"Gary" <gwilliamson@baileyspaging.com> wrote in message
news:1166819455.491447.107980@79g2000cws.googlegroups.com...

My Sister gave me the following unit. It's a 2003 model that was
working great. She turned it on a couple of weeks ago and now there is
no video. Still get power LED and sound. No static on CRT at startup.
She bought a new one and gave this one to me. Any suggestions
appreciated.

Tried video in?

 

[Meat Plow]

On Fri, 22 Dec 2006 22:24:43 +0000, R! Has Frothed:

I need some info on how to get at and replace the memory / clock battery on
a Sharp UX-115 Fax Machine.

Place for service manual / disassembly instructons ?

Note: Dont want to spend too much found them reconditioned for $25.00 US .

R!

You can download the manual for 5 bucks here:

https://www.manualsparadise.com/MainSearch.do


--
Pierre Salinger Memorial Hook, Line & Sinker, June 2004

COOSN-266-06-25794

 

[Art]

Check for a small coil in the base of the H Output, bet there are lousy
solder connections on each end, seems the glue used to secure the coil to to
pcb makes it very difficult to produce a good solder connection in
production. Common Problem.
"Charles Schuler" <charleschuler@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:RuOdndqnBqIcyhHYnZ2dnUVZ_t6qnZ2d@comcast.com...

"Gary" <gwilliamson@baileyspaging.com> wrote in message
news:1166819455.491447.107980@79g2000cws.googlegroups.com...
Been in electronics for years but focused on radio and communications.
Only minor work in television.

My Sister gave me the following unit. It's a 2003 model that was
working great. She turned it on a couple of weeks ago and now there is
no video. Still get power LED and sound. No static on CRT at startup.
She bought a new one and gave this one to me. Any suggestions
appreciated.

If the CRT is dark, the failure is most often in the high-voltage,
horizontal scan section. Check the horizontal output transistor.

 

[Art]

BTW: If there is a small PCC board on the right side of the chassis (Viewed
from back) check if there is a three pin connector going from the Main pcb
to the PCC board. Cut the ends off, I.E. the plugs, and hard wire the PCC
board to the Main board. Remove the black plastic plugs and pins at each
location, solder the wires directly to the solder pads. Pay attentionto the
colour rotation of the wires, it is easy to get them mixed up. ITC008 common
problem.
"Art" <plotsligt@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:hPadnYwMcNRZ7xHYnZ2dnUVZ_oupnZ2d@comcast.com...

Check for a small coil in the base of the H Output, bet there are lousy
solder connections on each end, seems the glue used to secure the coil to
to pcb makes it very difficult to produce a good solder connection in
production. Common Problem.
"Charles Schuler" <charleschuler@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:RuOdndqnBqIcyhHYnZ2dnUVZ_t6qnZ2d@comcast.com...

"Gary" <gwilliamson@baileyspaging.com> wrote in message
news:1166819455.491447.107980@79g2000cws.googlegroups.com...
Been in electronics for years but focused on radio and communications.
Only minor work in television.

My Sister gave me the following unit. It's a 2003 model that was
working great. She turned it on a couple of weeks ago and now there is
no video. Still get power LED and sound. No static on CRT at startup.
She bought a new one and gave this one to me. Any suggestions
appreciated.

If the CRT is dark, the failure is most often in the high-voltage,
horizontal scan section. Check the horizontal output transistor.

 

[Morse]

"M Berger" <berger@shout.net> wrote in message
news:emgtt8$fjb$2@roundup.shout.net...

A lot of modern televisions reset on loss of power.
It's not unusual.

My experiences here in the UK are quite different. I have never had to
retune/reconfigure a TV I've serviced in about 20 years. Maybe NVR is used
more in European models?

Morse

 

[NudoWhacker]

On 23 Dec 2006 07:40:54 -0800, "elkhound" <elkhound68@yahoo.com>
wrote:

http://search.ebay<snip

HELP GET A SPAMMER'S EBAY ACCOUNT TERMINATED!

This spammer, Charles M. Nudo, Jr. of Drums, PA, is a well-known
scammer and fraudster, selling counterfeit dupes of 8 tracks as well
as worthless crap to unsuspecting buyers on eBay for years now. He
has consistantly violated eBay's Terms of Service
regarding Usenet spam, to wit:

http://pages.ebay.com/help/usenet_policy.html

Nudo now uses four "google groups" accounts from which to spam:

dutyhonorcountry2@hotmail.com
elkhound68@yahoo.com
prshgry@yahoo.com
backthetowerlines@yahoo.com

Here's a recap of his latest spam efforts, almost all of which are in
groups that explicitly do NOT allow eBay spamming, especially for any
off-topic item:

http://groups.google.com/groups/search?q=author%3Adutyhonorcountry2%40hotmail.com+OR+author%3Aelkhound68%40yahoo.com+OR+author%3Aprshgry%40yahoo.com+OR+author%3Abackthetowerlines%40yahoo.com+%22VINTAGE+SANSUI%22&start=0&scoring=d&hl=en&lr=&safe=off&num=10&as_drrb=q&as_qdr=w&filter=0&

Please take the time to take this spammer's original post at the top
of the thread, forward it WITH HEADER to:

abuse@epix.net
groups-abuse@google.com
spam@ebay.com

You may get a "bounce" from eBay, as they like to make it difficult to
rat out their sacred cow sellers, but there will be a link for which
to forward the report.

HELP WIPE OUT A FRAUDSTERING SPAMMER TODAY!

 

[John Keiser]

Try reseating the memory.
Odd as it sounds, my Compaq DeskPro recently hiccupped exactly like yours:
screen went black in the middle of the day for no apparent reason. Unable
to reboot. I used an eraser on the memory chips and all has been fine
since.
If that doesn't work, listen for the POST beeps or enable POST messages in
BIOS.
--
Remove -NOSPAM- to contact me.