Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[Jerry G.]

You will have to find a scrapper like yours that has a good screen. The only
source is the name brand manufacture. These are not universally made to fit
under substitute names or part numbers.

--

Jerry G.
======


"news.rcn.com" <news.rnc.com> wrote in message
news:U_mdnWNzl-WEKt3fRVn-2Q@rcn.net...
I just got this 12 inch 1GHz G4 with a heavily broken screen which someone
had presumably discovered costs too much to fix at Apple and threw in my
direction, not particularly expensively

Is there anywhere I can buy the screen from some Samsung
distributor or would it have the wrong connector cables on it? Has anyone
ever done this?

Screens which come up on EBay seem to fetch inordinately high prices as the
12.1
is now and end-of-life item and has been so for quite a few years.

Has no one tracked which model this is and where it can be bought as a part
and whether the connectors are standard? There are detailed instructions on
line telling you how to do the replacement.

Jaco Electronics weren't particularly keen on telling me and Samsung claimed
not to know (they said Apple buys them all from Korea and Samsung America
don't get involved which seemed like the brush off to me as it Seemed like a
reason to sell me one not a reason NOT to tell me which one it is?)

I have seen it described as a generic 12.1 inch screen which can have a
Samsung part number LTN121S6-T01 (this
might be a 15 inch screen which isn't so end-of-life) or indeed a Philips
part number. I am sure Apple would like to pretend it was, but does anyone
know if the screen
on a 1 GHz Powerbook was designed specially for this new unit for Apple?

 

[news.rcn.com]

". These are not universally made to fit

under substitute names or part numbers.

So what are the guys on ebay offering (eg) the Samsung LTN121S6-T01
(supposedly for the same computer) offering? Is it the same part with
different connectors?

 

[JMK]

--
jankro (@) saunalahti (.) fi
Please notice my new address!

"news.rcn.com" <news.rnc.com> wrote in message
news:U_mdnWNzl-WEKt3fRVn-2Q@rcn.net...

I just got this 12 inch 1GHz G4 with a heavily broken screen which someone
had presumably discovered costs too much to fix at Apple and threw in my
direction, not particularly expensively

Is there anywhere I can buy the screen from some Samsung
distributor or would it have the wrong connector cables on it? Has anyone
ever done this?

Screens which come up on EBay seem to fetch inordinately high prices as
the
12.1
is now and end-of-life item and has been so for quite a few years.

Has no one tracked which model this is and where it can be bought as a
part
and whether the connectors are standard? There are detailed instructions
on
line telling you how to do the replacement.

Jaco Electronics weren't particularly keen on telling me and Samsung
claimed
not to know (they said Apple buys them all from Korea and Samsung America
don't get involved which seemed like the brush off to me as it Seemed like
a
reason to sell me one not a reason NOT to tell me which one it is?)

I have seen it described as a generic 12.1 inch screen which can have a
Samsung part number LTN121S6-T01 (this
might be a 15 inch screen which isn't so end-of-life) or indeed a Philips
part number. I am sure Apple would like to pretend it was, but does
anyone
know if the screen
on a 1 GHz Powerbook was designed specially for this new unit for Apple?



eBay is a very good source for cheap functioning LCD's.

I get most of my displays from there.

Jan
Finland

 

[Mark D. Zacharias]

"Cartlon Shew" <cashew@lapazylaplacer.com> wrote in message
news:6ea141ttpkd0aj29m3euj704uida7qeeet@4ax.com...

On Sat, 30 Oct 2004 15:14:15 -0500, "Mark D. Zacharias"
mzacharias@yis.us> wrote:


"Chaos Master" <spammers.fuck@spam.com.INVALID> wrote in message
news:MPG.1bed039444b7ea95989715@fallen.inc...
Quoting Team Goon [teamgoon@ilovespam.comcast.net], that posted to
sci.electronics.repair on Fri, 29 Oct 2004 13:49:25 -0400 under article
S9mdnefjEZZ-HB_cRVn-oA@comcast.com>:
The idiot who was whining about top posting.
Top posting is the deault.

A: Top posting.
Q: What is the most irritating thing on Usenet?

[]s
--
Chaos MasterŽ, posting from Brazil.
"People told me I can't dress like a fairy.
I say, I'm in a rock band and I can do what the hell I want!"
-- Amy Lee
http://marreka.no-ip.com | http://tinyurl.com/46vru |
http://renan182.no-ip.org

I've Googled the subject and although there's obviously differences of
opinion, there's reasons for top-posting, reasons for bottom posting, and
reasons for inserting replies. For this reason, I'm doing all three,
depending mainly on whether it's an ongoing thread, a simple one-time
reply,
or responding to several questions contained in one post. Sometimes if
some
self-appointed sheriff makes a big deal about it I'll top-post just to
piss
them off.


The only time I can think of that pot-toasting is acceptable is if
you're replying to the subject.

Mark Z.

I've noticed that on the technical newsgroups, people are lots more tolerant
of this. In fact, I'd been happily top-posting for YEARS with never a single
complaint til recently. Understandably, my habits were formed this way.
Posting to one or 2 other groups got some really stupid, hateful shit
directed at me. Suddenly everyone was the sheriff of some little one-horse
town. I'll bottom post if necessary to keep these assholes off my case, but
they should really get a life.

Mark Z.

 

[Leonard Caillouet]

Screw them and don't let it bother you. People on sci.electronics.repair
are more flexible and open minded. I bottom post when it is appropriate or
when the majority on a group are BP snobs.

Now cross posting to groups you don't read and failing to appropriately trim
posts is inconsiderate IMO.

Leonard

I've noticed that on the technical newsgroups, people are lots more
tolerant
of this. In fact, I'd been happily top-posting for YEARS with never a
single
complaint til recently. Understandably, my habits were formed this way.
Posting to one or 2 other groups got some really stupid, hateful shit
directed at me. Suddenly everyone was the sheriff of some little one-horse
town. I'll bottom post if necessary to keep these assholes off my case,
but
they should really get a life.

Mark Z.

 

[Sylvain Gregoire]

Another item,

could also be the PIA chip (or its socket on the MPU) for the switch matrix.
See my older post in rec.games.pinball for a Bally HotDoggin ...

Good luck,
Regards,
- Sylvain

"Sylvain Gregoire" <gregoire@nortelnetworks.com> wrote in message
news:d1pckn$hf4$1@zcars129.ca.nortel.com...

Apart than the switch clean (gold contacts, only clean with a business
card)
and well adjusted, with a good diode and good cap (and good connectors
on the MPU), I suspect that there are not much we could do (apart that
slightly increasing the cap value as you tried),
given that the MPU performs a strobe/scan of switches rows (or columns)
at a certain rate and may miss a switch closure if it is too short to be
held
by the cap between scans. Just my gut feeling.

Have you tried posting in rec.games.pinball ?

Cheers,
- Sylvain in Ottawa, Ontario, Canada


"frenchy" <mf101723@msn.com> wrote in message
news:1111502958.956604.288420@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...
For years the pinball companies used a small .047 uf capacitor across
some switch terminals for switches that could be closed and reopened
very quickly like a target getting slammed particularly hard. The
capacitor would increase the 'closure time' that the CPU would read the

switch as closed, long enough to help it pick up the switch closure.
These switches are just simple two blades and contacts, with one wire
to the cpu, the other wire thru a diode to isolate it within the matrix

of switches in the game, and the capacitor may or may not be across the

terminals also.


I'm having a problem with a particular swtich that the cap fix is
working, but not completely. Some hardhits will still not register.
Tried putting bigger cap on it with improved results but I've read that

too big of a cap can cause 'ghosting' where it might start causing
false closure reading on other switches in the matrix. So my question
is....


Is there a simple formula where one could increase the size of the .047

cap or .1 cap or whatever is being used, but put in in series with a
resistor, to lengthen the time that it is doing it's thing of
lengthening of the closure to the cpu? I.e if I wanted to use a cap
10x bigger, what resistor could I put in series with it to be sort of
like the smaller cap without the resistor, but length of discharge
would be stretched out? Or is this possible? I am pretty good at
fixing pinballs, but electronics theory is not my calling. thanks for
any assistance anybody can give me. Thanks!

 

[Wayne Tiffany]

I'll jump in on the top/bottom posting.

Top posting, in my opinion, is better if the person reading has been
following the thread. You are up-to-date, you click on the message, you
read the new tuff, and don't have to scroll forever to see where to start
reading. Now, I know that <snip> is used to reduce the length of the
messages, and also sometimes the best way to reply is by interspersing your
answers with the existing text, but for me, those are the exceptions.

Bottom posting is better for the person that wants to start at the top of
the thread and read a week's worth of conversation.

Either way, (not considering the exceptions) top posting is still more work
for the poster, as they have to scroll, rather than just typing at the top.
For those of us that are in the NG every day, it saves time, and for those
that are donating their time to help others, that swings the pendulum that
direction.

So, for me, top wins, both as the poster & reader, but that's just my
opinion.

WT

"Leonard Caillouet" <no@no.com> wrote in message
news:E4d0e.70848$SF.28787@lakeread08...

Screw them and don't let it bother you. People on sci.electronics.repair
are more flexible and open minded. I bottom post when it is appropriate
or
when the majority on a group are BP snobs.

Now cross posting to groups you don't read and failing to appropriately
trim
posts is inconsiderate IMO.

Leonard

I've noticed that on the technical newsgroups, people are lots more
tolerant
of this. In fact, I'd been happily top-posting for YEARS with never a
single
complaint til recently. Understandably, my habits were formed this way.
Posting to one or 2 other groups got some really stupid, hateful shit
directed at me. Suddenly everyone was the sheriff of some little
one-horse
town. I'll bottom post if necessary to keep these assholes off my case,
but
they should really get a life.

Mark Z.

 

[pertnoy]

If someone really needs a quality vcr, get an old RCA, Hitachi (think has
about 7 belts, replace all the belts, clean the heads, tape guides etc, and
idler tire. one with all those replaced properly will probably last 20
years, might just need another head cleaning later, but the RCA, Hitachi 7
or 8 belt vcr`s from the 80`s, are likely the best vcr`s ever made.)

"Cartlon Shew" <cashew@lapazylaplacer.com> wrote in message
news:6ea141ttpkd0aj29m3euj704uida7qeeet@4ax.com...

On Sat, 30 Oct 2004 15:14:15 -0500, "Mark D. Zacharias"
mzacharias@yis.us> wrote:


"Chaos Master" <spammers.fuck@spam.com.INVALID> wrote in message
news:MPG.1bed039444b7ea95989715@fallen.inc...
Quoting Team Goon [teamgoon@ilovespam.comcast.net], that posted to
sci.electronics.repair on Fri, 29 Oct 2004 13:49:25 -0400 under article
S9mdnefjEZZ-HB_cRVn-oA@comcast.com>:
The idiot who was whining about top posting.
Top posting is the deault.

A: Top posting.
Q: What is the most irritating thing on Usenet?

[]s
--
Chaos MasterŽ, posting from Brazil.
"People told me I can't dress like a fairy.
I say, I'm in a rock band and I can do what the hell I want!"
-- Amy Lee
http://marreka.no-ip.com | http://tinyurl.com/46vru |
http://renan182.no-ip.org

I've Googled the subject and although there's obviously differences of
opinion, there's reasons for top-posting, reasons for bottom posting, and
reasons for inserting replies. For this reason, I'm doing all three,
depending mainly on whether it's an ongoing thread, a simple one-time
reply,
or responding to several questions contained in one post. Sometimes if
some
self-appointed sheriff makes a big deal about it I'll top-post just to
piss
them off.


The only time I can think of that pot-toasting is acceptable is if
you're replying to the subject.

Mark Z.

 

[Mark D. Zacharias]

Outlook Express top-posts by default. It's considered a flaw by many.

Mark Z.


"Wayne Tiffany" <wayne.tiffanyRMVJUNK@asi.com> wrote in message
news:3ad983F66i809U1@individual.net...

I'll jump in on the top/bottom posting.

Top posting, in my opinion, is better if the person reading has been
following the thread. You are up-to-date, you click on the message, you
read the new tuff, and don't have to scroll forever to see where to start
reading. Now, I know that <snip> is used to reduce the length of the
messages, and also sometimes the best way to reply is by interspersing
your answers with the existing text, but for me, those are the exceptions.

Bottom posting is better for the person that wants to start at the top of
the thread and read a week's worth of conversation.

Either way, (not considering the exceptions) top posting is still more
work for the poster, as they have to scroll, rather than just typing at
the top. For those of us that are in the NG every day, it saves time, and
for those that are donating their time to help others, that swings the
pendulum that direction.

So, for me, top wins, both as the poster & reader, but that's just my
opinion.

WT

"Leonard Caillouet" <no@no.com> wrote in message
news:E4d0e.70848$SF.28787@lakeread08...
Screw them and don't let it bother you. People on sci.electronics.repair
are more flexible and open minded. I bottom post when it is appropriate
or
when the majority on a group are BP snobs.

Now cross posting to groups you don't read and failing to appropriately
trim
posts is inconsiderate IMO.

Leonard

I've noticed that on the technical newsgroups, people are lots more
tolerant
of this. In fact, I'd been happily top-posting for YEARS with never a
single
complaint til recently. Understandably, my habits were formed this way.
Posting to one or 2 other groups got some really stupid, hateful shit
directed at me. Suddenly everyone was the sheriff of some little
one-horse
town. I'll bottom post if necessary to keep these assholes off my case,
but
they should really get a life.

Mark Z.

 

[news.rcn.com]

What I cant figure out is whether it is an LTN12X1-L02
or not: They seem to fetch nothing when described by the Samsung part number
(said to have been pulled from a working G4) and about $250 when described
by the Apple descriptor.

Are the connectors different and non-replaceable?

 

[Travis Jordan]

dave wrote:

as a last resort, does anybody know where I might find 'labeled
pinouts' for what the mobo connector functions ARE on ATX and
'miniATX' p.supplies? I did find some guys site with a schematic for
a 200w ATX, but it did -not- include the 'mystery unknown connector'
on mine...

Do some reading.
http://www.bluemax.net/techtips/ATXPowerSupplyWiring/ATXPowerSupplyWiring.htm

 

[cbah78]

Hello Anthony,
i am having the same problem for 2 weeks now (with the 1407).
Did you find the solution.
I have to unplug the main power for about 5 seconds and plug it back to
turn on the TV but i think it will not goes on for a long time !!

Thank you in advance.

Christophe.


Anthony Wrote:

Hello all,
I have one of these sets in for repair. When you turn it on
you can hear the EHT come up, but after around 3 seconds it shuts back
down into protection mode. So before I get to deeply involved I was
wondering if anyone knew of any commonly known problem areas relating
to these symptoms. Any help would be great. Thanks.

Regards
Anthony

--
cbah78

 

[frenchy]

It would be no big deal if the cap/resistor combination, if it could do
it, hold the closure for more than one switch scan. It will not
register twice, i.e. it is no problem if the game interprested every
hit to this switch to be lasting twice as long or three times as long
as it does now, as long as I get a reliable closure I don't really care
if it is during one, or 2, or 3 switch 'scans', it would still be doing
what it's intended to be doing in the game rules.

 

[Jamie]

news.rcn.com wrote:

I just got this 12 inch 1GHz G4 with a heavily broken screen which someone
had presumably discovered costs too much to fix at Apple and threw in my
direction, not particularly expensively

Is there anywhere I can buy the screen from some Samsung
distributor or would it have the wrong connector cables on it? Has anyone
ever done this?

Screens which come up on EBay seem to fetch inordinately high prices as the
12.1
is now and end-of-life item and has been so for quite a few years.

Has no one tracked which model this is and where it can be bought as a part
and whether the connectors are standard? There are detailed instructions on
line telling you how to do the replacement.

Jaco Electronics weren't particularly keen on telling me and Samsung claimed
not to know (they said Apple buys them all from Korea and Samsung America
don't get involved which seemed like the brush off to me as it Seemed like a
reason to sell me one not a reason NOT to tell me which one it is?)

I have seen it described as a generic 12.1 inch screen which can have a
Samsung part number LTN121S6-T01 (this
might be a 15 inch screen which isn't so end-of-life) or indeed a Philips
part number. I am sure Apple would like to pretend it was, but does anyone
know if the screen
on a 1 GHz Powerbook was designed specially for this new unit for Apple?



use it for a paper weight.

the screen will cost you more than the
laptop is even worth.

 

[William_K_F]

tong narak Wrote:

press *65# as system pin code to access secret menu to reset factory
setting

hope these help!

Note: This must be done at the menu item "System Settings?" before
selecting it and being asked for the System Pin which you are trying to
reset to 0000.

There are no beeps as you enter *65# but when successful, it will
display "System PIN Reset" and beep. Your System Pin is now 0000.
This is for Siemens Gigaset 2420 reset System Pin to Factory default
PIN.


--
William_K_F

 

[Ken G.]

I hate all of it , if your paying attention you dont need anything but
an answer to the question . If the whole darn first topic is included at
the top where i have to keep scrolling to read the next post i soon give
up and quit reading .

Old vcr`s will be worth fixing till no one wants to pay for it anymore

 

[NSM]

Top posting is kinder to the blind who have to listen to annoying computer
voices. But trimming is essential.

N

"Leonard Caillouet" <no@no.com> wrote in message
news:E4d0e.70848$SF.28787@lakeread08...

Screw them and don't let it bother you. People on sci.electronics.repair
are more flexible and open minded. I bottom post when it is appropriate
or
when the majority on a group are BP snobs...

 

[NSM]

"Jumpster Jiver" <me@here.there> wrote in message
news:4241D511.5020508@here.there...

I agree. I took care of one of those for a family member for about 15
years by simply replacing the belts every two to three years and regular
cleaning and lubrication.

Where can one find GOOD info on how to lube and with what?

N

 

[dave]

Travis Jordan wrote:

Do some reading.
http://www.bluemax.net/techtips/ATXPowerSupplyWiring/ATXPowerSupplyWiring.htm

thanks, travis, I've been reading and saw that page yesterday AM.
admittedly, it DOES have good info re the ATX PS mobo connector pinouts
(and I tried accessing a dead link on the page for more info, too). but
that page:

1. makes no mention of the 'mystery connector' on my "microATX" PS, and
2. gives no schematic (or other info) regarding what the pinouts are on
an "micro ATX" power supply to mobo connector (needed for comparison)

so, I guess I'm about a third of the way closer now to 'solving the
great mystery'

thanks again

tool

ps-still haven't been able to locate pinouts for the mobo connector on
an "ATX micro" power supply, as either a 'suggested industry standard'
-or- a schematic (or other specifics, in any form) for -any- makers mATX
power supply...

:-\

 

"The only time I can think of that pot-toasting is acceptable is if
you're replying to the subject."

Allow me to express my support for pot-toasting. Got a light?