Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[jakdedert]

Tim W. wrote:

I have a Horstmann Electronic 7 Maxistore water heater in my home and
I've been having fuse problems as of late. We've been living here for
about 7 months and never once had a problem but the other day I went
to disconnect a storage heater and had to cut off the main power.
When I turned it back on, the 15 amp fuse wire for my water heater
blew. It was merely broken but I went out and got some new 15 amp
fuse wire and replaced it. A few hours later I hear a loud pop and
when I switched off the power and checked the fuse box the wire was
completely gone except for the melted bits attached to the screws.
Again I replaced it and again it happened. Fuse completely melted and
gone. Is too much power flowing through? Is it safe to use a 30 amp
wire? Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks

Not familiar with your particular water heater, but if you turned off the
power, and somehow the water level got low...did someone turn off the water
supply as well?

In that scenario, the upper element of a normal U.S. style water heater
might blow out...causing the exact symptoms you describe. Perhaps the
element blew from thermal shock of being powered on while immersed in cold
water. It shouldn't, but since it's old....

In any case, something's wrong. You ABSOLUTELY SHOULD NOT replace the fuse
with something larger! In fact DO NOT replace the fuse again! You'll have
the same result. There's something wrong, and since you obviously do not
have the technical knowledge to troubleshoot--much less repair--the fault;
I'm afraid that you need professional help.

Diagnose and fix the problem before you cause a bigger problem, like a fire.

jak

 

[Michael Black]

(cummings@stingray.net) writes:

Interesting, it is a Hitachi 40 pin PIA chip and maybe the Motorolla
part might be easier to source. I have yet to find some place willing
to see just one.

Okay, I risked my neck to get down the Hitachi databook.

The HD6321 is cmos, versus nmos of the 6821. It's supposed to be compatible,
but there might be some cases where it causes a problem. The 6821 should
be easier to get, so it is worth trying.


Michael

 

[James Sweet]

"Tim W." <Tim.W..1miexo@news.diybanter.com> wrote in message
news:Tim.W..1miexo@news.diybanter.com...

I have a Horstmann Electronic 7 Maxistore water heater in my home and
I've been having fuse problems as of late. We've been living here for
about 7 months and never once had a problem but the other day I went to
disconnect a storage heater and had to cut off the main power. When I
turned it back on, the 15 amp fuse wire for my water heater blew. It
was merely broken but I went out and got some new 15 amp fuse wire and
replaced it. A few hours later I hear a loud pop and when I switched
off the power and checked the fuse box the wire was completely gone
except for the melted bits attached to the screws. Again I replaced it
and again it happened. Fuse completely melted and gone. Is too much
power flowing through? Is it safe to use a 30 amp wire? Any help would
be much appreciated. Thanks

NO! Absolutely under no circumstances use a higher than rated amperage fuse!
You will very likely set the house on fire and insurance will *not* cover
it. Find out what's wrong with your water heater and have it fixed.

 

[Sam Goldwasser]

"James Sweet" <jamessweet@hotmail.com> writes:

"Tim W." <Tim.W..1miexo@news.diybanter.com> wrote in message
news:Tim.W..1miexo@news.diybanter.com...

I have a Horstmann Electronic 7 Maxistore water heater in my home and
I've been having fuse problems as of late. We've been living here for
about 7 months and never once had a problem but the other day I went to
disconnect a storage heater and had to cut off the main power. When I
turned it back on, the 15 amp fuse wire for my water heater blew. It
was merely broken but I went out and got some new 15 amp fuse wire and
replaced it. A few hours later I hear a loud pop and when I switched
off the power and checked the fuse box the wire was completely gone
except for the melted bits attached to the screws. Again I replaced it
and again it happened. Fuse completely melted and gone. Is too much
power flowing through? Is it safe to use a 30 amp wire? Any help would
be much appreciated. Thanks


NO! Absolutely under no circumstances use a higher than rated amperage fuse!
You will very likely set the house on fire and insurance will *not* cover
it. Find out what's wrong with your water heater and have it fixed.

The failure sounds like an intermittent short. Could be a heating element
or something external. But absolutely agreed you should not run it until
the cause is determined. Whatever happened the first time could have just
been a tired fuse. But when it happened again, and by the description,
rather violently, there is definitely something very wrong.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ Mirror: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/
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| Mirror Sites: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Note: These links are hopefully temporary until we can sort out the excessive
traffic on Repairfaq.org.

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name is included in the subject line. Or, you can
contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.

 

[JANA]

You should check out to see what circumstances that the meter was used in.
Or, was that person's meter defective. What I would do is see if the dealer
would let you have one to try for a few days. I am sure you will like the
meter. Fluke meter products are generally the best.

--

JANA
_____


<rustyrd@aol.com> wrote in message
news:1111854548.012192.317190@l41g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...

I have a Fluke 87 and have been thinking of upgrading to the 189. But I
have been hearing lately from two different people now, that the 189
has an annoying problem. "The range switching is annoying. With varying
signals, the 87 does a good job of quickly jumping ranges. The 189
loses its composure briefly and blanks the display as it jumps around
making following a variable signal annoying unless you manually lock in
a given range" I asked the one individual if maybe he was trying to use
the 189 on a variable frequency drive in which case the 87V would be
more appropriate, and he said that no he was just using it for typical
DMM applications. Anybody else have any gripes with their Fluke 189
DMM? Thank you for any input. B. Taylor

 

[Ole Geisler]

On 26 Mar 2005 08:29:08 -0800, rustyrd@aol.com wrote:

DMM applications. Anybody else have any gripes with their Fluke 189
DMM? Thank you for any input. B. Taylor

The 189 is the closest to perfect DMM i ever has seen.

I own two of these, only annoyances is thay the auto-power off is not
complete, and youy must use a scredriwer to changes batteries.

 

[Antti Panula]

"Ole Geisler" <reptech@mail.dk> wrote in message
news:gnpb41dopvrrjp7i5hj4i6kctlgqe5pedo@4ax.com...

The 189 is the closest to perfect DMM i ever has seen.

I own two of these, only annoyances is thay the auto-power off is not
complete, and youy must use a scredriwer to changes batteries.

If you don't have a screwdriver available, pry off the stand and use it
Fits perfectly.

I would like to see an inductance measurement function in the future
versions of 180 series. Any reasons why not already, other than price?

Antti
OH7GLS

 

[Lee Babcock]

Tim W. wrote:

I have a Horstmann Electronic 7 Maxistore water heater in my home and
I've been having fuse problems as of late. We've been living here for
about 7 months and never once had a problem but the other day I went to
disconnect a storage heater and had to cut off the main power. When I
turned it back on, the 15 amp fuse wire for my water heater blew. It
was merely broken but I went out and got some new 15 amp fuse wire and
replaced it. A few hours later I hear a loud pop and when I switched
off the power and checked the fuse box the wire was completely gone
except for the melted bits attached to the screws. Again I replaced it
and again it happened. Fuse completely melted and gone. Is too much
power flowing through? Is it safe to use a 30 amp wire? Any help would
be much appreciated. Thanks


Firstly, don't replace the fusing with anything but the proper rating.

Secondly, you should give more details when you ask for help.

I suspect that from your email address and the make name that you are in
the UK and that this is a tankless point of delivery water heater. We
had these damn things in the Bahamas when I used to live there and they
were prone to developing leaks in the water coil directly onto the
heating elements and blowing fuses.

Regards
Lee in Toronto

 

[NSM]

"Tim W." <Tim.W..1miexo@news.diybanter.com> wrote in message
news:Tim.W..1miexo@news.diybanter.com...

I have a Horstmann Electronic 7 Maxistore water heater in my home and
I've been having fuse problems as of late. We've been living here for
about 7 months and never once had a problem but the other day I went to
disconnect a storage heater and had to cut off the main power. When I
turned it back on, the 15 amp fuse wire for my water heater blew. It
was merely broken but I went out and got some new 15 amp fuse wire and
replaced it. A few hours later I hear a loud pop and when I switched
off the power and checked the fuse box the wire was completely gone
except for the melted bits attached to the screws. Again I replaced it
and again it happened. Fuse completely melted and gone. Is too much
power flowing through? Is it safe to use a 30 amp wire? Any help would
be much appreciated. Thanks

Where are you? Down under? My guess - you have a bad element - may have a
crack in it. Don't up the fuse rating. A 1500 W heater on 230 V is 13 Amps.
Don't exceed 15.

N

 

[Gary J Tait]

On Sat, 26 Mar 2005 20:50:18 +0000, Tim W.
<Tim.W..1mivln@news.diybanter.com> wrote:

Sorry about the 2 post below.


Dear Group,

I have started having problems with my water heater lately along with
my circuit breaker. The other day my 15amp fuse wire for my immersion
water heater blew. The wire was only broken the first time....so I
replaced it and thought nothing of it. A short time later when I went
to use my hot water it violently blew again but this time the wire was
completely melted, gone, nothing left. I have a Horstmann Electronic 7
Maxistore timer hooked to it and for the past 7 months i've had it set
to "continuous" rather than boosting or 1hr/2hr timing. I've never had
a problem with it before but now I have replaced the fuse wire 4 times
and each time it has blown and melted. Any ideas? Thanks

Contact a professional in the field of that sort of appliance.

 

[James Sweet]

<dennis702717@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1111903782.753165.249350@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...

Noticed that old Fluke meters are selling for $50-$80 whereas
comparable Wavetek meters, same features, sell for $10-$30.

Any suggestions on whether the extra cost of a used Fluke is worth it,
over Wavetek?

Also, is the Ideal multimeter really a Wavektek? (Buttons are in the
same position, same functions.) But, why cheaper?

It's more a matter of reliability, durability, accuracy and serviceability.
Meters don't so much "wear out", rather they tend to get zapped by excessive
voltage, dropped, crushed, banged around, and calibration drifts with age.
Just about anyone in the electronics field will tell you to get a Fluke.

That said, watch out for some of the new low end Fluke stuff, it's made in
China these days.

 

[Art]

Very common with Sony and Panasonic sets. Also a common problem:
intermittant fuse failure due to the current being initially used by the dgs
circuitry. Seen a lot of Thomson and Panasonic sets with this senerio.
"Donald Gudehus" <gudehus@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1111888235.595543.3190@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...

Thanks for the great information! From a Google search I found the
information in this thread I needed to repair my Sony KV-20TS30 TV
which suddenly developed color gradients in an oval pattern. My
problem was just as described here: the THP601 thermistor (black
1/2x5/8 inch component next to where the degaussing coil plugs into the
main circuit board) had no solder left on the center pin. I could also
wiggle the lead. Turning the set upside down and applying solder got
the set working again.

Terry wrote:
Sony tv color reversal: SUCCESS!!!!
This MADE my week! I'm a hero in the extended family! Wednesday
night I finally brought home my soldering equipment (not too much
call
for soldering DB25s in these days of the 100MBit office anyway!),
pulled the back cover, turned the whole set upside down and confirmed
all the hints from you guys:
The degauss wires were indeed covered with black tape. The circuit
traces went from those wires directly to one of the black boxes which
did indeed have 3 pins (I had to shine my bright light *through* the
circuit board to see this clearly - might be a good hint for
beginners
in the future)...and LowAndBehold, one of the pins was NOT SOLDERED
ANYMORE (guess how excited I was) It was not burned looking in the
least, just no longer soldered and in fact I could gently wiggle it
and feel that it was not solidly connected. I then KNEW you were
right.

I fired up my iron, used the hot iron itself to clean up the pin and
hole and gave it a nice quick small flow of fresh solder. I kept
wanting this to be more difficult... but I just closed the tv back
up,
plugged it in, turned it on and there to the shocked amazement of my
family was a PERFECT COLOR PICTURE! Total Cost: a few good
descriptions to this group and a speck of solder. You guys are
Great!
I'm going to re-visit the crippled stereo equip in my lower room now!

Final Hindsight data: The component was marked "THP601" on the
circuit board (I decided this must mean "Positive" acting
"THermistor"
or "Posister" as Sam mentioned and an electronics friend said meant
just the opposite direction for the voltage or the temperature.)

Terry

 

[philo]

dennis702717@yahoo.com wrote:

Noticed that old Fluke meters are selling for $50-$80 whereas
comparable Wavetek meters, same features, sell for $10-$30.

Any suggestions on whether the extra cost of a used Fluke is worth it,
over Wavetek?

Also, is the Ideal multimeter really a Wavektek? (Buttons are in the
same position, same functions.) But, why cheaper?

although i've used fluke's for years...

the last time a got a meter it was a wavetek

it had more features than the fluke and cost less...
it's been running fine for many years and i use it in a very rough
industrial application


my guess is that if both a fluke and a wavetek were dropped from a great
height...the fluke would prob hold up better...
but the wavetek is a good meter

 

[Barney]

<tariq.1.rahim@spamgourmet.com> wrote in message
news:1111723840.133971.26160@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...

it's panasonic color set, 15 years old. i have cable and watch the
cable channels thru my vcr.

my TV is prone to turning into snow a few minutes after I turn it on.
turning it off and on again solves it.

what gives? is this a tube problem or is it something else? thanks.

Probably an intermittent problem - dry joint or something - in the tuner
'can'. It may also be a problem around the aerial socket. Feeding the TV
signal in via a scart socket will eliminate all the RF circuitry.

 

[James Sweet]

"Jeff" <jaribus_jarobi@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1111946093.039913.168070@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...

I'm surprised it has last this long without getting scratched.

My six-year old son scratched our rear projection tv screen. I am
taking deep breaths. The scratch is about 3 and a half inches long in
the lower center of the screen. I cleaned it up a little with just a
damp cloth.

Can anybody help me out with any other suggestions?

Thanks,
-jeff

Is there a flat plastic protective outer screen? If so then replacing that
piece is fairly inexpensive. There's no good way to repair the scratch
either way other than replacing the scratched piece. Could always dock his
allowance to partially pay for it.

 

[Franc Zabkar]

On Sun, 27 Mar 2005 08:04:16 GMT, "James Sweet"
<jamessweet@hotmail.com> put finger to keyboard and composed:

dennis702717@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1111903782.753165.249350@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...
Noticed that old Fluke meters are selling for $50-$80 whereas
comparable Wavetek meters, same features, sell for $10-$30.

Any suggestions on whether the extra cost of a used Fluke is worth it,
over Wavetek?

Also, is the Ideal multimeter really a Wavektek? (Buttons are in the
same position, same functions.) But, why cheaper?


It's more a matter of reliability, durability, accuracy and serviceability.
Meters don't so much "wear out", rather they tend to get zapped by excessive
voltage, dropped, crushed, banged around, and calibration drifts with age.
Just about anyone in the electronics field will tell you to get a Fluke.

.... except me. I have a PM97 Scopemeter which cost me AU$2750 but
which has been a POS from day one. Just get yourself a cheap DMM and
calibrate it against a 5.000V reference.

See this simple calibration circuit based on a MAX6350 5.000V
reference IC. This chip has a claimed 0.02% accuracy (5.000 +/-
0.001V):

http://www.siliconchip.com.au/cms/A_30853/article.html

That said, watch out for some of the new low end Fluke stuff, it's made in
China these days.

- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 's' from my address when replying by email.

 

[NSM]

"boki" <bokiteam@ms21.hinet.net> wrote in message
news:4c3c095a.0503271650.652465cf@posting.google.com...

Hi, just wanna make sure is there exist a "Green line" test procedure
in traditional video test.

Best regards,
Boki.

All tests are manufacturer designed. There are no "traditional video tests"
that I am aware of.

--
N

 

[Barney]

<tariq.1.rahim@spamgourmet.com> wrote in message
news:1111971868.909144.22420@l41g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...

what's a scart socket?

will using the audio and video jacks instead of the single coax jack
bypass this problem too? thanks.

A Scart connector (also called a Euroconnector, so you may not have them in
the US) is a 21 pin audio and video connector for connecting signals - via a
suitable lead - between various AV equipment. Yes, using the audio and video
should also work and bypass the problem as well.

 

[Rifleman]

Hi!

There is probably simplier ways to convert a word document to a PDF file
than this but here goes:
Download a software called openoffice which is for free and will be more
than enough for most users, I do like microsoft office but but the cost is
way beyond what I can afford.
I bought Staroffice which is similar to openoffice and microsoft office but
it didn't make my wallit to empty, anyway it can convert any document to PDF
in an easy way and the cost is arround 1/4 of microsoft office.
Here's the link http://www.openoffice.org/dev_docs/features/2.0/index.html

Bjorn


"Sadiq" <sathick@gmail.com> skrev i meddelandet
news:1111946634.724720.132520@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...

hello? i like to create my word files all to PDF format with bookmarks.
anyone can help me to prepare pls. mention the free site to get the
software also.thanks.

 

[Rifleman]

"philo " <"philo "@privacy.net> skrev i meddelandet
news:3anrcgF6a5cntU1@individual.net...

dennis702717@yahoo.com wrote:
Noticed that old Fluke meters are selling for $50-$80 whereas
comparable Wavetek meters, same features, sell for $10-$30.

Any suggestions on whether the extra cost of a used Fluke is worth it,
over Wavetek?

Also, is the Ideal multimeter really a Wavektek? (Buttons are in the
same position, same functions.) But, why cheaper?

although i've used fluke's for years...
the last time a got a meter it was a wavetek

it had more features than the fluke and cost less...
it's been running fine for many years and i use it in a very rough
industrial application


my guess is that if both a fluke and a wavetek were dropped from a great
height...the fluke would prob hold up better...
but the wavetek is a good meter

You are so right, there is lot's of good DMM,s on the market for less price
than FLUKE but those FLUKE are good. I got 2 FLUKE 77 and I had them for I
don't know how long maybe 15 years or more and they never seem to wear out.
Even if you are a PRO you even try to measure high voltage with the range
knob at ohm
I've done this and they are still ok.

Bjorn