Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[Travis Jordan]

none wrote:

On Sat, 19 Mar 2005 20:59:50 GMT, "Travis Jordan" <no.one@no.net
wrote:

none wrote:
Any info is of course greatly appreciated.

Not until you learn how to set your computer clock.

And what pray tell does the time on my computer have to do with my
request?(Which BTW is set to the correct time for my locale.)

I apologize. It isn't your computer clock that is wrong, it is your
incompetent ISP's NNTP server clock.

 

[Travis Jordan]

none wrote:

I'm digging alot of my older video cameras out of the warehouse to
try and get a bit more use out of them before they rot out completely.
Most are single tube/chip industrial with a few 2 and 3 chip stuff.
All use the the vhs 10pin connector and I'm looking for a source that
would have the female connectors.

http://www.comprehensiveinc.com/compvideo/category.asp?catalog%5Fname=Valiant&category%5Fname=EIAJ+Multi%2DPin+Video+Connectors&Page=1

 

[James Sweet]

"Travis Jordan" <no.one@no.net> wrote in message
news:WQh%d.1951457$Zm5.304969@news.easynews.com...

Travis Jordan wrote:
I apologize. It isn't your computer clock that is wrong, it is your
incompetent ISP's NNTP server clock.

Organization: BellSouth Internet Service
Date: Thu, 16 Jun 2005 20:52:59 -0500

So maybe I'm missing something.. but who cares? My computer's time is
correct, what does it matter if someone else's is?

 

[Travis Jordan]

James Sweet wrote:

So maybe I'm missing something.. but who cares? My computer's time is
correct, what does it matter if someone else's is?

If the NNTP posting time is wrong it changes the order in which posts
sorted by date / time appear in some newsreaders. In this case the OP's
post is time stamped 6/14/2005 at 12:27 AM, so it appears first in my
sorted list of postings on newsgroup. And will continue to do so until
that date has passed.

 

[James Sweet]

"Travis Jordan" <no.one@no.net> wrote in message
news:BYm%d.1973604$Zm5.309168@news.easynews.com...

James Sweet wrote:
So maybe I'm missing something.. but who cares? My computer's time is
correct, what does it matter if someone else's is?

If the NNTP posting time is wrong it changes the order in which posts
sorted by date / time appear in some newsreaders. In this case the OP's
post is time stamped 6/14/2005 at 12:27 AM, so it appears first in my
sorted list of postings on newsgroup. And will continue to do so until
that date has passed.

Mark it as read, and have it show only unread posts, that's what I do,
doesn't matter what order they're sorted in.

 

[none]

On Sun, 20 Mar 2005 23:50:41 GMT, "James Sweet"
<jamessweet@hotmail.com> wrote:

"Travis Jordan" <no.one@no.net> wrote in message
news:BYm%d.1973604$Zm5.309168@news.easynews.com...
James Sweet wrote:
So maybe I'm missing something.. but who cares? My computer's time is
correct, what does it matter if someone else's is?

If the NNTP posting time is wrong it changes the order in which posts
sorted by date / time appear in some newsreaders. In this case the OP's
post is time stamped 6/14/2005 at 12:27 AM, so it appears first in my
sorted list of postings on newsgroup. And will continue to do so until
that date has passed.




Mark it as read, and have it show only unread posts, that's what I do,
doesn't matter what order they're sorted in.

My apologies. My clock is set to the correct time. However I picked up

a virus or Trojan or whatever that was screwing with all the time
stamps on my e-mail and newsgroup postings.
All is now fixed and the unwanted bug is gone.
If anyone is willing to ehlp me out with the info I first requested
I'd be grateful.

 

[none]

On Sun, 20 Mar 2005 17:32:20 GMT, "Travis Jordan" <no.one@no.net>
wrote:

none wrote:
I'm digging alot of my older video cameras out of the warehouse to
try and get a bit more use out of them before they rot out completely.
Most are single tube/chip industrial with a few 2 and 3 chip stuff.
All use the the vhs 10pin connector and I'm looking for a source that
would have the female connectors.

http://www.comprehensiveinc.com/compvideo/category.asp?catalog%5Fname=Valiant&category%5Fname=EIAJ+Multi%2DPin+Video+Connectors&Page=1

Thank you kindly. Your a lifesaver.

 

[Franc Zabkar]

On Sun, 20 Mar 2005 18:54:44 GMT, "Chris F."
<zappymanREMOVETHIS@hotmail.com> put finger to keyboard and composed:

Does anyone have a good spindle motor, from any Panasonic or Toshiba DVD
(or DVD/VCR combo), made in 2002? I think it's a 12-V type, and I'm pretty
sure they're all the same. The exact unit is Toshiba, with a chassis
identical to the Panasonic PV-D1734S.
Thanks

I have a Philips DVD761K/751 player of around that vintage. It uses a
Panasonic laser assembly powered by 7805 and 7809 regulators. The
motor spins, the power supplies are OK, but the unit reports "no
disc". Do you have any photos, dimensions, resistance measurements?


- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 's' from my address when replying by email.

 

[tank24]

I have the same problem, did you have any joy, i've been quoted up to Ł150
to repair?

 

[Renegader]

Hi there,

I have a Provision PR-DVD2.0 with a Zhinan ZN1792-E powersupply.
The C3 and R4 are broken.
C3 is known, but R4 is not recognable.

Can someone help me?

 

[Mark]

the power delivered and the power consummed probably changes with the
load.

what is in the oven?

did you try something else?

there may be a "standard load" that is used for these ratings.

Mark

 

[DaveC]

Chris, what do you have against re-tinning them contacts ? it's cheap
easy, effective and good as new. you don't sell them by any chance }

Roy

I like the solder solution, but these contacts are beyond fixing, I think:

http://k.domaindlx.com/magdesh/socket2.jpg
--
Please, no "Go Google this" replies. I wouldn't
ask a question here if I hadn't done that already.

DaveC
me@privacy.net
This is an invalid return address
Please reply in the news group

 

[Chris]

"DaveC" <me@privacy.net> wrote in message
news:0001HW.BE64535A007E4F6FF02845B0@news.sonic.net...

Chris, what do you have against re-tinning them contacts ? it's cheap
easy, effective and good as new. you don't sell them by any chance }

Roy

I like the solder solution, but these contacts are beyond fixing, I think:

Absolutely!

Go to your nearest electrical wholesaler/lighting store and get the spare
parts. That lamp holder looks like a common garden variety (and is cheap) -
AND pick up a new globe at the same time.

I think it would be the least hassle.

Cheers.

 

[Jerry G.]

I am thinking that your meter is being effected by some harmonics. I have
seen this before. If your circuit breaker for the outlet is a 15 Amp rated,
it would be in a short time that it should become opened.

The inverter ovens are using switching power supply technology. The current
pull from these under load is difficult to accurately measure. If the oven
seem to be working okay, I would think it is okay.

--

Jerry G.
======


<dude17@sacbeemail.com> wrote in message
news:1111415748.421818.304320@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...
X-No-Archive: Yes

I have one of those "inverter" type microwave oven made by
Panasonic. It uses an inverter instead of the traditional iron core
transformer to power the magnetron.

I just noticed that this thing draws a lot more power & current than it
should. The manual specifies "120V AC 12.7A, 1460W" and 1,300W cooking
power.

Measurement with either true RMS or regular ammeter shows actual
current draw is around 16A. Based on the specifications given, the
power factor comes to around 0.956. Given that, it probably has a
harmonics correction so the reading from even an ordinary ammeter
should be reasonably accurate.

One possibility is that the interference from the inverter is causing
the meter to read abnormally high but given rather unrealistic
specifications, I believe my result is reasonable.

It is rather unrealistic that the calculated system efficinecy is
89%(1300W output over 1460W input). 89% efficinecy is unrealistically
high when you factor in the loss in drive circuit and magnetron. More
realistic answer is: A.) the unit is drawing more than the rated power.
B.)the unit is putting out less than the rating C.) combination of
both.

Assuming my measurement is correct, what's the permissibility of
something with NEMA-15P plug drawing in excess of 15A for more than a
split second?

If you have an inveter microwave oven, I'd like to know how your unit's
current draw compares to the official specification.

 

X-No-Archive: Yes


Jerry G. wrote:

I am thinking that your meter is being effected by some harmonics. I
have
seen this before. If your circuit breaker for the outlet is a 15 Amp
rated,
it would be in a short time that it should become opened.

The inverter ovens are using switching power supply technology. The
current
pull from these under load is difficult to accurately measure. If the
oven
seem to be working okay, I would think it is okay.

--

Jerry G.
======

I just went to FCC site and searched its FCC ID. I poked around the
exhibits Panasonic has submitted to FCC and one of the repots did say
"120V 16.7A 2004W"
Go to this link:
https://gullfoss2.fcc.gov/prod/oet/cf/eas/reports/ViewExhibitReport.cfm?mode=Exhibits&RequestTimeout=500&calledFromFrame=N&application_id=314929&fcc_id='ACLAP6K51'

^that's one large line if it gets wrapped.
Download the PDF document Test Report Application index and summary.

Bottom of page 5 shows the specification for model # NN-S654BF. This
one says 120V 12.7A which is consistent with my instruction manual.

Bottom of page 8 shows test result for the same model # microwave.
120V 16.7A 2004W input, which is consistent with my measured result.

Last I checked, there's no way 16.7A appliace would be permitted with a
NEMA-15P plug with an intent to be used on a 15A circuit. But I could
be wrong..

 

[operator jay]

<dude17@sacbeemail.com> wrote in message
news:1111459221.433183.282150@l41g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...

X-No-Archive: Yes


Jerry G. wrote:
I am thinking that your meter is being effected by some harmonics. I
have
seen this before. If your circuit breaker for the outlet is a 15 Amp
rated,
it would be in a short time that it should become opened.

The inverter ovens are using switching power supply technology. The
current
pull from these under load is difficult to accurately measure. If the
oven
seem to be working okay, I would think it is okay.

--

Jerry G.
======


I just went to FCC site and searched its FCC ID. I poked around the
exhibits Panasonic has submitted to FCC and one of the repots did say
"120V 16.7A 2004W"
Go to this link:

https://gullfoss2.fcc.gov/prod/oet/cf/eas/reports/ViewExhibitReport.cfm?mode=Exhibits&RequestTimeout=500&calledFromFrame=N&application_id=314929&fcc_id='ACLAP6K51'

^that's one large line if it gets wrapped.
Download the PDF document Test Report Application index and summary.

Bottom of page 5 shows the specification for model # NN-S654BF. This
one says 120V 12.7A which is consistent with my instruction manual.

Bottom of page 8 shows test result for the same model # microwave.
120V 16.7A 2004W input, which is consistent with my measured result.

Last I checked, there's no way 16.7A appliace would be permitted with a
NEMA-15P plug with an intent to be used on a 15A circuit. But I could
be wrong..

A 15A circuit breaker may hold for a very long time or even indefinitely
with 16A running through it. A device which draws 16A would not damage a
15A circuit, nor trip a 15A breaker, if its duty cycle is low. If that
microwave does draw that much and Panasonic is allowed to put a 15A cord on
it, maybe that's the reason why.

j

 

[Jumby woncanobie]

<dude17@sacbeemail.com> wrote in message
news:1111415748.421818.304320@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...

X-No-Archive: Yes

I have one of those "inverter" type microwave oven made by
Panasonic. It uses an inverter instead of the traditional iron core
transformer to power the magnetron.

I just noticed that this thing draws a lot more power & current than it
should. The manual specifies "120V AC 12.7A, 1460W" and 1,300W cooking
power.

+ or - 20% is typical

Also if your line voltage is low, the amps will go up with a switcher, to
keep power constant.

It is better to have a transformer, it is far more reliable and more
efficient, about 97% or more than a switcher especially for 13 amps ac.

 

[Sylvain Gregoire]

Apart than the switch clean (gold contacts, only clean with a business card)
and well adjusted, with a good diode and good cap (and good connectors
on the MPU), I suspect that there are not much we could do (apart that
slightly increasing the cap value as you tried),
given that the MPU performs a strobe/scan of switches rows (or columns)
at a certain rate and may miss a switch closure if it is too short to be
held
by the cap between scans. Just my gut feeling.

Have you tried posting in rec.games.pinball ?

Cheers,
- Sylvain in Ottawa, Ontario, Canada


"frenchy" <mf101723@msn.com> wrote in message
news:1111502958.956604.288420@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...

For years the pinball companies used a small .047 uf capacitor across
some switch terminals for switches that could be closed and reopened
very quickly like a target getting slammed particularly hard. The
capacitor would increase the 'closure time' that the CPU would read the

switch as closed, long enough to help it pick up the switch closure.
These switches are just simple two blades and contacts, with one wire
to the cpu, the other wire thru a diode to isolate it within the matrix

of switches in the game, and the capacitor may or may not be across the

terminals also.


I'm having a problem with a particular swtich that the cap fix is
working, but not completely. Some hardhits will still not register.
Tried putting bigger cap on it with improved results but I've read that

too big of a cap can cause 'ghosting' where it might start causing
false closure reading on other switches in the matrix. So my question
is....


Is there a simple formula where one could increase the size of the .047

cap or .1 cap or whatever is being used, but put in in series with a
resistor, to lengthen the time that it is doing it's thing of
lengthening of the closure to the cpu? I.e if I wanted to use a cap
10x bigger, what resistor could I put in series with it to be sort of
like the smaller cap without the resistor, but length of discharge
would be stretched out? Or is this possible? I am pretty good at
fixing pinballs, but electronics theory is not my calling. thanks for
any assistance anybody can give me. Thanks!

 

[Brad]

Hi Elle,

I had two hdds fail so far. I will never depend on a hdd to "keep"
important files permanently. Instead, I use an external TDK CD burner, which
I can move from one computer to another for the purpose of backing up
important data. Note: I have more than one CD with the same data.

Brad

Before you type your password, credit card number, etc.,
be sure there is no active key logger (spyware) in your PC.


On Sun, 20 Mar 2005 03:05:46 GMT, "Elle" <elle_navorski@earthlink.net> wrote:

I walked away from my computer for a couple of hours, tops, yesterday. I
came back to it and the display and mouse were frozen.

It's a 3.5 year old personal computer (Gateway, with a 20 Gigabyte, 5M Ultra
ATA hard drive). I ended up powering down, when starting up received error
messages and then a failure to reach the Windows display. I ultimately
struggled through a Scanddisk from a Dos prompt and was able to recover
most, but not all, my personal files, copying them to floppy diskettes (3.5
inch type). I shoulda been backing up at least once a month, but wasn't.
Anyone else procrastinating: Man, don't do it. Stop now. Back up your files.

A tech support person at Gateway said hard drives don't usually last beyond
five years. Some die at three years. I've found support on Usenet for this.

My computer's running again, but to thwart another massive crash, is it
worth putting in a new hard drive? I've got $80 to spend, and I figure a
nice one will run about that.

I installed a new power supply (that is, transformer) last summer. It's
power and so heat output aren't that different from the old one. It seems to
be working out fine. Otherwise, all else is original equipment.

My last computer was a Hewlett Packard. It "died" irrecoverably after only
thee years. The shop couldn't fix it, though maybe I took it to a lousy
shop. So this is very discouraging. Throwing away $800 every three years
ain't gonna cut it anymore. So I've had it with these big brand names. I'm
ready to build my own, and think at this point I have enough expertise to do
so. I'm certainly not going to throw money away on a shop trying to fix my
computer again. It seems to me much of the expertise involved in a
successful computer repair involves simply patience and persistence.

How about the CPU? Should I investigate replacing it, too?

All suggestions about whether a new hard drive is worth the investment and
the CPU are welcome.

TIA

 

[Cartlon Shew]

On Sat, 30 Oct 2004 15:14:15 -0500, "Mark D. Zacharias"
<mzacharias@yis.us> wrote:

"Chaos Master" <spammers.fuck@spam.com.INVALID> wrote in message
news:MPG.1bed039444b7ea95989715@fallen.inc...
Quoting Team Goon [teamgoon@ilovespam.comcast.net], that posted to
sci.electronics.repair on Fri, 29 Oct 2004 13:49:25 -0400 under article
S9mdnefjEZZ-HB_cRVn-oA@comcast.com>:
The idiot who was whining about top posting.
Top posting is the deault.

A: Top posting.
Q: What is the most irritating thing on Usenet?

[]s
--
Chaos MasterŽ, posting from Brazil.
"People told me I can't dress like a fairy.
I say, I'm in a rock band and I can do what the hell I want!"
-- Amy Lee
http://marreka.no-ip.com | http://tinyurl.com/46vru |
http://renan182.no-ip.org

I've Googled the subject and although there's obviously differences of
opinion, there's reasons for top-posting, reasons for bottom posting, and
reasons for inserting replies. For this reason, I'm doing all three,
depending mainly on whether it's an ongoing thread, a simple one-time reply,
or responding to several questions contained in one post. Sometimes if some
self-appointed sheriff makes a big deal about it I'll top-post just to piss
them off.

The only time I can think of that pot-toasting is acceptable is if
you're replying to the subject.

Mark Z.