Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[NSM]

<rsherm@ix.netcom.com> wrote in message
news:1108280408.860898.222400@c13g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...

Second, when the microwave finishes its cycle, it turns off, beeps,
and displays the message "End" on the panel -- just as it should.
However, opening the door and removing the food, then closing the door
does not reset the program -- the "End" message is still displayed and
the reminder tones sound every minute until you press the "Cancel"
button. The manual clearly indicates that simply opening and closing
the door should reset the program.

It's got to be a door switch - or the controller is not 'reading' the
switch.
--
N

 

[Bob Parker]

He's a lumberjack and he's OK!
I think it's about time I watched some more of that stuff. One needs
regular doses of it when dealing with electronics (which I still do)
and especially doing repairs (which I gave up on).

Cheers,
Bob



Alan S <loralweightandcarbs@optusnet.com.au> wrote:

Well spotted.

I just watched on satellite one I hadn't seen in years - the film
collation version of "And now for something completely different" -
dead parrots, lumberjacks etc. I'd almost forgotten how wonderful some
of those sketches were.


Cheers Alan, T2, Australia.

 

[NSM]

"Richard" <rsherm@ix.netcom.com> wrote in message
news:1108315316.770553.166570@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...

Thanks for the replies. I agree with the controller/switch assessments
-- but what are the odds that 4 controllers (3 in the original unit and
1 in the new one ) would all be bad? Or that the switches would also
be bad in two units? I'm beginning to think, though, that both units
and all the controllers might come from the same subcontractor or
assembly plant -- i.e., there is a batch of these things out there
coming from the same source.

It happens. A good tech can figure it out.
--
N

 

[Bob Urz]

Robert Graham Jr. wrote:

Hello all!

I am repairing my K2000R synthesizer. When I turn the unit on, it states it
is initializing battery backed memory. But the batteries are fine. Still, I
do get a low voltage indication at times. At first this was an intermittent
problem. Now it is a consistent headache.

I replaced the diode pair that permits the battery to power the memory chip
when the power is off. There is also a transistor that I changed which a
part of this circuit. It brings the +5V power line up when unit is switched
on and cuts off power from the battery. There is a capacitor that permits
changing the battery without losing what is in memory. Also there are the
memory chips, the battery sensing chip, and the battery pack of three AA
1.5V batteries. Oh yes, there is the cable that attaches the battery pack
to the board.

I removed the battery pack container and measured the voltage across the
external terminals with NEW batteries installed. Even though each battery
measured 1.5V separately, I measured 3.7V across the terminals with the
three AA batteries inserted. This slowly dropped to 3.3V. Interesting.
Particularly when the battery pack is not connected to the board! I then
plug in the battery pack into the board and after the battery reading
stabilizes (the capacitor is charged), the voltage reads under 2V. I unplug
it, and the battery voltage jumps to 4V. I think there is a connection
problem here. Otherwise this is not making any sense to me.

Any ideas? I am teaching myself how to repair this problem. I appreciate any
help!

Thank you!

Bob Graham


Obviously, something is drawing more current than the batteries can

deliver. I would be looking for a shorted or leaky cap somewhere.
Do you have a schematic? Your going to have to load shed to find out
where the high draw section is somehow.

Bob

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[Harvey]

<maradcliff@UNLISTED.com> wrote in message
news:ens0111l736ndevjh4blfo5rvvoq0bdk2f@4ax.com...
[...]

But there is that black goop. It sticks real
well, and is waterproof, and yet removes easily. Does anyone know
where to get that stuff, or know of anything else I can use?

Do you mean Self Amalgamating Tape?
http://www.cybermarket.co.uk/ishop/923/shopscr1691.html

That's the stuff I always use on plugs/sockets if they are exposed to the
weather. Its looks a bit like electrical PVC tape, but it doesn't have the
glue; instead you stretch it and it sticks to itself, eventually forming a
fairly solid 'blob' of waterproofing. Easy to get off with a knife.

 

[Allodoxaphobia]

On Mon, 14 Feb 2005 04:00:26 -0600, maradcliff@UNLISTED.com wrote:

I dont know how to explain this stuff, but there is some sort of black
or gray putty like goop that I have seen that is used to seal things.
I know they use it on furnace ducts and the like.

Visit a decent hardware store (probably not a Big Box place) and ask
the Olde Timer back in the electrical dept. for some "Elephant Shit".
It's a grey, 1/2 brick-sized piece of putty-like stuff.
Just what you want.
Maybe tape over it after you apply it -- just to prevent its migration
over time.


HTH
Jonesy
--
| Marvin L Jones | jonz | W3DHJ | linux
| Gunnison, Colorado | @ | Jonesy | OS/2 __
| 7,703' -- 2,345m | config.com | DM68mn SK

 

Right, sometimes called self fusing tape in America. I've used a
silicone type that's suitable for buried video cable. That one's red.
Richard

 

[Allodoxaphobia]

On 14 Feb 2005 16:47:40 GMT, Allodoxaphobia wrote:

On Mon, 14 Feb 2005 04:00:26 -0600, maradcliff@UNLISTED.com wrote:
I dont know how to explain this stuff, but there is some sort of black
or gray putty like goop that I have seen that is used to seal things.
I know they use it on furnace ducts and the like.

Visit a decent hardware store (probably not a Big Box place) and ask
the Olde Timer back in the electrical dept. for some "Elephant Shit".
It's a grey, 1/2 brick-sized piece of putty-like stuff.

Just got back from the HW store (on some other errand.) Whilst there
I checked: None of the "kids" ever heard of "Elephant Shit", but the
Olde Timer did. And, it's probably not found in the electrical dept.
It is as you thought 'duct seal', and it comes in 1 lb bricks.
One brick ought to last you a lifetime -- even if you're an
Amateur Radio Operator with a decent antenna farm.

Jonesy
--
| Marvin L Jones | jonz | W3DHJ | linux
| Gunnison, Colorado | @ | Jonesy | OS/2 __
| 7,703' -- 2,345m | config.com | DM68mn SK

 

[Doug]

Check all the large resistors for opens, and look on the same board for
STK4274. It is the vertical IC and can cause your collapse. It looks
like you probably do need the convergence chip, too. Good Luck!

Doug

 

[Harvey]

"Anthony Fremont" <spam@anywhere.com> wrote in message
news:8N9Qd.57666$sr1.14065@fe2.texas.rr.com...

maradcliff@UNLISTED.com> wrote in message
news:ens0111l736ndevjh4blfo5rvvoq0bdk2f@4ax.com...

[..]

http://www.coaxseal.com

That stuff seem to be the same as the self amalgamating tape I posted about
earlier - I'm guessing its about the same sort of suff, just under a
different name.

 

[drwxr-xr-x]

On 14 Feb 2005 15:15:24 -0800, hillelg123@yahoo.com wrote:

An update:

In 10-30-2004 I bought a new 27' Panasonic TV, CT27SL14.

Damn!! My living room is only 26' long.

 

[Anthony Fremont]

"Harvey" <harvey@not.ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:AmaQd.751$_Z.432@newsfe5-gui.ntli.net...

"Anthony Fremont" <spam@anywhere.com> wrote in message
news:8N9Qd.57666$sr1.14065@fe2.texas.rr.com...

maradcliff@UNLISTED.com> wrote in message
news:ens0111l736ndevjh4blfo5rvvoq0bdk2f@4ax.com...

[..]

http://www.coaxseal.com

That stuff seem to be the same as the self amalgamating tape I posted
about
earlier - I'm guessing its about the same sort of suff, just under a
different name.

I think it's different. The coax seal is kinda thick >1/8". The tape
your talking about is much like electrical tape that permanently bonds
to itself after some time, isn't it?

 

[TimPerry]

in addition to (or sometimes in conjunction with) the above mentioned
techniques, 3m scotchkote is available at better electrical supply sources.

it is usually applied after taping up a connection. just paint it on.

 

[Bob Parker]

Let's not go to Camelot... 'tis a silly place.


Franc Zabkar <fzabkar@optussnet.com.au> wrote:

On Sun, 13 Feb 2005 01:27:13 +1100, Bob Parker <bobp@bluebottle.com
put finger to keyboard and composed:

From Fawlty Towers! My faith in this newsgroup, with followers of
Monty Python and John Cleese etc popping up, has almost been restored.


Bob

I just about have the complete set of both. Now for Ripping Yarns ...

pretentious??? moi????

cheers, alan


- Franc Zabkar

 

[carlconrad]

Jack Edin Wrote:

I purchased a <a style='text-decoration: none; border-bottom: 3px
double;'
href="http://www.serverlogic3.com/lm/rtl3.asp?si=24&k=service%20manual"
onmouseover="window.status='service manual'; return true;"
onmouseout="window.status=''; return true;"&gt;service manual</a> on eBay.
It was a .PDF file, made from
microfische...

Believe it or not, no schematics...

Anybody have a line on a used maunal, or at least the schematics?

Thank you, in advance.

Jack

Hallo Jack
I am also looking for a manual of this monitor type. But in Europe it
is not a common one. So can you help me with a copy of your manual?
This would be verry nice!
Thanks a lot!
Conrad


--
carlconrad

 

Two possibilities: Bacteria has grown in the crt coolant or the
picture tubes are at the end of the life and getting darker.

As for you replaceing them, not likely. Replacing Philips picture
tubes requires new coolant and seals and full disassembly. Add the
cost of the tubes, around $220 each times three, and it is not worth
having it done usually.

I'm betting on you needing to call someone out to pull the tubes, drain
the coolant, disassemble and clean the bacterial gunk off the glass and
refill. Shouldn't run more than $300 and you should get a few more
short years of use out of the set.

Lastly there is a slim chance of an actual parts failure causing dark
images, in which case the set still will need looked at by a qualified
technician.

 

Without taking your tv apart and checking the solder connections in the
IF block in your tv, I cannot say that this is the case with your tv or
not.

It was a common problem in the IF and tuners for Sony's made worldwide
between about 1987 and 1994, still is an occasional problem in the Sony
all in one Tuner/IF combo blocks today.

 

[Shoreline Electronics]

Look down inside each tube when the set is on ( be careful!) You should
see a crystal clear red , green and blue image from each tube. If it looks
like a cloudy mess, the chambers will need to be drained and washed out and
refilled. Typically the green and blue CRTs suffer from this problem...the
red is ok most of the time.

Picture will look like new after this is done! Worth the investment! Make
sure they pull the power supply/sweep module and resolder all the
transformers and heatsinked parts!




--
==========================
Jeff Stielau
Shoreline Electronics Repair
344 East Main Street
Clinton,CT 06413
860-399-1861
860-664-3535 (fax)
jstielau@snet.net
========================

&lt;cholzman@gmail.com&gt; wrote in message
news:1108475196.497976.91130@c13g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...

I purchased a 54" Maganvox rear projection TV (model #6P5435 W101) in
June of '97. It was a floor model and I've never had a lick of trouble
with it. However, lately the picture appears to be getting dimmer, with
people in dark scenes appearing as silouettes.

I removed the screen and cleaned the dust off of the R, G and B lamps
(crt's?) and that did not help much.

Is it possible to replace these lamps? Is that what the problem most
likely is? Is this cost effective to do myself or to have someone do
for me (I'm a computer tech, so I'm comfortable with electronics, but
not much experience working on monitors/tvs). Am I better off replacing
it? I know I can get a 55" wide screen Philips at WalMart for around
$1500.

I'd like to get another 4:3 TV but it seems no one sells them anymore.
Without any HD or having to purchase an HD tuner, it seems premature to
purchase such a beast unless someone likes to watch letterbox movies
all the time. Also, the inability to record HDTV broadcasts (at least
affordably) has me completely turned off to HDTV for now.

Advice?

Also, are there better 55" (or larger) TVs available with a better
picture than Philips/Magnavox that sell for less than $1800? (I've
owned Magnavox and Sanyo TVs my whole life and never once had a problem
with any of them, but I also realize they don't provide the best
picture in the world...but then, I've always been happy with the
picture quality with them...)

Thanks!
Carey

 

[*GHF*]

Birdie Num Num!!!!


Bob Parker &lt;bobp@bluebottle.com&gt; wrote:

Franc Zabkar &lt;fzabkar@optussnet.com.au&gt; wrote:
One of my absolutely favourite bits of humour because it's so true.
It's great to see that someone here's got a sense of the absurd.

Bob



Brian: Look. You've got it all wrong. You don't need to follow me. You
don't need to follow anybody! You've got to think for yourselves.
You're all individuals!

Crowd (together): Yes, we're all individuals!

Brian: You're all different!

Crowd (together): Yes, we are all different!

Individual: I'm not.

- from Monty Python's "Life Of Brian".


- Franc Zabkar

 

[Bob Parker]

Akkkkk! You didn't put a real e-mail address on this newsgroup did
you? It's because I did, that one of my e-mail addresses has been
destroyed by spam.

But apart from that, "BANG! HOWDY PARTENER!!"




ptmsaa1230@hotmail.com (*GHF* ) wrote:

&gt;Birdie Num Num!!!!