Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[William Sommerwerck]

A USB 2.0 port should supply a mininum of 500mA and is technically
required to shut down if the current exceeds 1.25A. A USB 3.0 port
should supply a minimum of 900mA and is supposed to shut down
at 1.5A. But there are also higher power options if communications
is not occurring simultaneously.

Overloads at startup will produce error messages, followed by prompts to reset
the ports.

Ports /not/ wired directly to the mainboard can fail to supply even the
nominal spec'd maximum current. I have a USB 3.0 external drive that won't
work with the ports on the front of the machine, but does work with those on
the rear.

 

[Francis C.]

sms wrote:

There's no short answer. A USB 3.0 port _could_ provide a higher maximum
current if the computer manufacturer decides to provide the higher
current, but it's not required.

That explains why when I plugged in the Motorola RAZR V3 into both types
of ports on my Linux laptop, it simply said "Charging" but didn't give
any other indication.

 

Le jeudi 19 mars 1998 09:00:00 UTC+1, Ryan Erickson a écrit :

Hello!

I have a CD player here (my sister's, if your curious) that has started
rejecting certain CD's (consistently the same CD's -- I don't know if it
ever accepted them), and it doesn't appear to read the index correctly, and
after trying to read the index, it spins up to 'supersonic' speeds, and only
turning it off will let it release the CD. These CD's are not scratched,
etc., and work fine in other CD and CD-ROM players.

I have read the FAQ, and cleaned the lens, and have watched and observed the
sled and pickup assembly, etc., and am wondering what to check next. My
biggest problem is that it only rejects certain discs, unrelated to playing
time, from what I can tell. It doesn't even read the index on them. Can
the limit switch be set too far out from the center of the disc, and not
allowing the IR to get the index data off the disc? Is there something
geometry-related with the discs?

Thanks!

Ryan Erickson
ryan@erudite.com

Et alors ? ? ?

 

On Thursday, 2 January 1997 08:00:00 UTC, Jens Ottosen wrote:

Hi there, is there anyone who has experience in adjustment of videoscope
konvergence?

I have purchased an used Sony videoscope, but unfortunatly the manual was
missing, so I am in desperate need of guidence in adjustment of the
convergence...

best regards..
Jens

There is a small removable panel under the door in the back where the controls are. Remove that panel and there is a switch that will turn the screen black with colored lines. Use the knobs to line up the lines and flip the switch back when done. The picture needs to be projected on a surface that is angled forward for everything to match up. Hope that helps.

 

[Phil Hobbs]

On 8/7/2013 9:38 PM, debeerac@gmail.com wrote:

Hi everyone,

I just bought a brand new oven which was to have only a minor scratch on the handle. It's a Ariston OS99, which normally retails for NZ$2770, but I got it for NZ$995, because of the cosmetic flaw. But when I got it there was also a dent on the side of it. What I want to know is, could there be a issue with, i.e. insulation being squashed? Peaking through the holes in the outer casing, there doesn't seem to be electronic bits in that area, just insulation. I don't want to burn my house down because of improper insulation (it's one of those pyrolytic self-cleaning ovens that cleans at 500 degrees Celsius.

Regards.
Amanda

This isn't really a sci.electronics.design question, so I've
cross-posted to sci.electronics.repair and set followups there. If it
isn't on-topic over there, they'll be able to help, anyway.

How big is the dent?

Cheers

Phil Hobbs

--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs
Principal Consultant
ElectroOptical Innovations LLC
Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics

160 North State Road #203
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510 USA
+1 845 480 2058

hobbs at electrooptical dot net
http://electrooptical.net

 

[Jeff Liebermann]

On Wed, 7 Aug 2013 18:56:14 -0700 (PDT), debeerac@gmail.com wrote:

I just bought a brand new oven which was to have only a minor scratch on the handle. It's a Ariston OS99,
which normally retails for NZ$2770, but I got it for NZ$995, because of the cosmetic flaw.

Nice price, good reviews:
<http://www.productreview.com.au/r/ariston-os-99-dpix/375521.html>
<http://www.aristonbrand.com/products/cooking/built-in-ovens/os-99-dpix>
<http://www.aristonbrand.com/images/os99dpix_specification_sheet.pdf>

The dent is about 3/4 inch deep in the left-hand side panel
and about 2 inches of the bottom towards the front/door.
It's just above the join with the bottom panel. It's about
20 cm long, with the deepest bit about 10 cm long. Seems
like it was hit by a forklift. It came without the packaging,
because that was damaged.

I don't like the deep dent because (as you note), the lack of
insulation and the close proximity of the dent to the inside oven
wall, may conduct enough heat to the outside panel to start a fire.

Since you haven't installed it yet, tear it apart and try to pound out
the dent with several blocks of wood and a mallet. You can probably
get some assistance from the local sheet metal shop, HVAC ducting
builder, or anyone that deals in sheet metal fabrication.

A 3/4 inch dent implies that the metal has been substantially
stretched, so it may be necessary to cut out the damaged area, and
spot weld a stainless steel plate in its place. You can also just
slit the stretched area with rotary saw or grinder, flatten the panel,
and MIG weld the cut area closed. Since it's an insert oven, you'll
never see the patch job, so don't worry about cosmetics. It may also
be possible to purchase a replacement panel, but that's too easy and
no fun.



--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

 

On Thursday, August 8, 2013 1:43:12 PM UTC+12, Phil Hobbs wrote:

On 8/7/2013 9:38 PM,

Hi everyone,



I just bought a brand new oven which was to have only a minor scratch on the handle. It's a Ariston OS99, which normally retails for NZ$2770, but I got it for NZ$995, because of the cosmetic flaw. But when I got it there was also a dent on the side of it. What I want to know is, could there be a issue with, i.e. insulation being squashed? Peaking through the holes in the outer casing, there doesn't seem to be electronic bits in that area, just insulation. I don't want to burn my house down because of improper insulation (it's one of those pyrolytic self-cleaning ovens that cleans at 500 degrees Celsius.



Regards.

Amanda





This isn't really a sci.electronics.design question, so I've

cross-posted to sci.electronics.repair and set followups there. If it

isn't on-topic over there, they'll be able to help, anyway.



How big is the dent?



Cheers



Phil Hobbs



--

Dr Philip C D Hobbs

Principal Consultant

ElectroOptical Innovations LLC

Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics



160 North State Road #203

Briarcliff Manor NY 10510 USA

+1 845 480 2058



hobbs at electrooptical dot net

http://electrooptical.net

The dent is about 3/4 inch deep in the left-hand side panel and about 2 inches of the bottom towards the front/door. It's just above the join with the bottom panel. It's about 20 cm long, with the deepest bit about 10 cm long. Seems like it was hit by a forklift. It came without the packaging, because that was damaged.

 

On Thursday, August 8, 2013 2:17:55 PM UTC+12, Jeff Liebermann wrote:

On Wed, 7 Aug 2013 18:56:14 -0700 (PDT), debeerac@gmail.com wrote:



I just bought a brand new oven which was to have only a minor scratch on the handle. It's a Ariston OS99,

which normally retails for NZ$2770, but I got it for NZ$995, because of the cosmetic flaw.



Nice price, good reviews:

http://www.productreview.com.au/r/ariston-os-99-dpix/375521.html

http://www.aristonbrand.com/products/cooking/built-in-ovens/os-99-dpix

http://www.aristonbrand.com/images/os99dpix_specification_sheet.pdf



The dent is about 3/4 inch deep in the left-hand side panel

and about 2 inches of the bottom towards the front/door.

It's just above the join with the bottom panel. It's about

20 cm long, with the deepest bit about 10 cm long. Seems

like it was hit by a forklift. It came without the packaging,

because that was damaged.



I don't like the deep dent because (as you note), the lack of

insulation and the close proximity of the dent to the inside oven

wall, may conduct enough heat to the outside panel to start a fire.



Since you haven't installed it yet, tear it apart and try to pound out

the dent with several blocks of wood and a mallet. You can probably

get some assistance from the local sheet metal shop, HVAC ducting

builder, or anyone that deals in sheet metal fabrication.



A 3/4 inch dent implies that the metal has been substantially

stretched, so it may be necessary to cut out the damaged area, and

spot weld a stainless steel plate in its place. You can also just

slit the stretched area with rotary saw or grinder, flatten the panel,

and MIG weld the cut area closed. Since it's an insert oven, you'll

never see the patch job, so don't worry about cosmetics. It may also

be possible to purchase a replacement panel, but that's too easy and

no fun.







--

Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com

150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com

Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com

Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Thanks Jeff. I've now contacted Ariston and they will send out a guy to fix the dent. Once it's open I'll have a look at whatever is really behind that panel (hopefully only insulation) to make sure everything is okay.

Cheers
Amanda

 

[Adrian C]

On 14/08/2013 01:20, Arfa Daily wrote:

"PJPM" <f6ceedb9c75b52f7fcc0a55cf0cfbf5d_942@example.com> wrote in
message news:c59fa$520a9479$43de0cc0$13833@news.flashnewsgroups.com...
Radio works OK. Tape decks on bottom work ok. All buttons on CD player
appear to be depressed.



What on earth does that mean ... ?

I suggest it's a language thing, russian?

depressed -> broken -> not working.

--
Adrian C

 

[Arfa Daily]

"Adrian C" <email@here.invalid> wrote in message
news:b70t8cFcu12U1@mid.individual.net...

On 14/08/2013 01:20, Arfa Daily wrote:


"PJPM" <f6ceedb9c75b52f7fcc0a55cf0cfbf5d_942@example.com> wrote in
message news:c59fa$520a9479$43de0cc0$13833@news.flashnewsgroups.com...
Radio works OK. Tape decks on bottom work ok. All buttons on CD player
appear to be depressed.



What on earth does that mean ... ?

I suggest it's a language thing, russian?

depressed -> broken -> not working.

--
Adrian C

Maybe. It still doesn't help much, though. Bit like saying "my car made a
noise. What could it be ?" ...

Arfa

 

[Adrian C]

On 14/08/2013 09:52, Arfa Daily wrote:

"Adrian C" <email@here.invalid> wrote in message
"PJPM" <f6ceedb9c75b52f7fcc0a55cf0cfbf5d_942@example.com> wrote in
Radio works OK. Tape decks on bottom work ok. All buttons on CD
player
appear to be depressed.
What on earth does that mean ... ?
I suggest it's a language thing, russian?
Maybe. It still doesn't help much, though. Bit like saying "my car made
a noise. What could it be ?" ...

Ok

But don't we on usenet regulary hold hands in virtual séance to attempt
to communicate with dead electronic spirits in the hope they may give up
the secrets why the operating power departed?

Got to meditate here cross legged and smoke a pipe.... Mmmmmmmmm.

Probably a missing voltage somewhere. Find a service manual and a DMM,
or a gifted tech guru.

--
Adrian C

 

[N_Cook]

Extraction only fingers of one hand , no wiggling required. Insertion
force 3 to 4Kg far lower than usual. C frame around and under amp
connected to a spring balance and a block of expanded polystyrene , off
amp deformed with impressions to take top of C and top of valve.
All 8 laminations bolts for the 2 Tx are loose to the point of nuts soon
to be dropping off for 2 of the mains TX bolts.
One of the seriously cruddy output fuses, with LED indicators, has
highly suspect contact where the end cap quarter-turns in, so yet again
having to replace these pcb mount fuse holders

 

[Arfa Daily]

"Adrian C" <email@here.invalid> wrote in message
news:b711l6Fdrv6U1@mid.individual.net...

On 14/08/2013 09:52, Arfa Daily wrote:

"Adrian C" <email@here.invalid> wrote in message
"PJPM" <f6ceedb9c75b52f7fcc0a55cf0cfbf5d_942@example.com> wrote in
Radio works OK. Tape decks on bottom work ok. All buttons on CD
player
appear to be depressed.
What on earth does that mean ... ?
I suggest it's a language thing, russian?
Maybe. It still doesn't help much, though. Bit like saying "my car made
a noise. What could it be ?" ...


Ok

But don't we on usenet regulary hold hands in virtual séance to attempt to
communicate with dead electronic spirits in the hope they may give up the
secrets why the operating power departed?

Got to meditate here cross legged and smoke a pipe.... Mmmmmmmmm.

Probably a missing voltage somewhere. Find a service manual and a DMM, or
a gifted tech guru.

--
Adrian C

LOL ! Guess so ... d

Arfa

 

[N_Cook]

Looks like a matter of desoldering the heater chain wires and then hot
air gun to the pcb under each socket while pulling the socket , to
remove them.
Seems odd to have a fuse in the AC to the bias supply

 

[William Sommerwerck]

"Adrian C" wrote in message news:b711l6Fdrv6U1@mid.individual.net...

But don't we on usenet regulary hold hands in virtual séance to attempt to
communicate with dead electronic spirits in the hope they may give up the
secrets why the operating power departed?

It seems to me that if all the keys on CD transport played are pushed down,
the OP should start by trying to release them. Duh...?

 

[Arfa Daily]

"William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:kug3us$moe$1@dont-email.me...

"Adrian C" wrote in message news:b711l6Fdrv6U1@mid.individual.net...

But don't we on usenet regulary hold hands in virtual séance to attempt
to communicate with dead electronic spirits in the hope they may give up
the secrets why the operating power departed?

It seems to me that if all the keys on CD transport played are pushed
down, the OP should start by trying to release them. Duh...?

I don't think that is going to be the issue, as the CD player is controlled
by tactile push buttons. In fact, I don't think I have ever seen a CD player
that used any kind of locking switches ...

Arfa

 

[William Sommerwerck]

"Arfa Daily" wrote in message newsWVOt.10484$GL2.4916@fx24.am4...
"William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:kug3us$moe$1@dont-email.me...

It seems to me that if all the keys on CD transport played are pushed down,
the OP should start by trying to release them. Duh...?

I don't think that is going to be the issue, as the CD player is controlled
by tactile push buttons. In fact, I don't think I have ever seen a CD player
that used any kind of locking switches ...

DUH!

I guess I'm getting CD transports confused with cassette transports.

Nevertheless... What did the OP mean?

 

I would guess that the plastic "switch cap assembly" has been disconnected from the cabinet face. This is not an uncommon occurrance. Open up the case and re-attach the assembly. If it is not aligned with the tac switches, there will be no way to activate the CD.

This sounds like a problem that a little bit of plastic cement can fix.

Dan

 

[N_Cook]

Next time I have to desolder double sided large-mass PbF soldered valve
bases , I will attack as the only time I've done lead-pipe soldering and
use 2 hot air guns, one heating the base and one on the other usual side
of the pcb.
These white no name porcelain bases have a form of pin I've not seen
before. If you view into the holes that take the valve pins , you can
see the pins have joggles to them in a circumferential sense. Not the
fairly common pip joggle inwards towards the valve pin at the point of
contact but off the flat face of the pin , like mini humps. What that
means is that instead of the valve pin forcing the forks apart, the 2
parts of the fork can slightly rotate out of diametrical alignment and
so just a touching contact, not full mechanical contact
I think the pin material is thick enough and the forks are not splaying
apart , the usual dodgey contact failure mechanism but a slight
torsional twist instead. Perhaps removal of p5 at least and squashing
out the 2 humps is all that is required.
The flimsy no name pcb 20mm fuseholders have a type number
PTF
50
on them

 

[Arfa Daily]

"William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:kuhb8e$c4h$1@dont-email.me...

"Arfa Daily" wrote in message newsWVOt.10484$GL2.4916@fx24.am4...
"William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:kug3us$moe$1@dont-email.me...

It seems to me that if all the keys on CD transport played are pushed
down, the OP should start by trying to release them. Duh...?

I don't think that is going to be the issue, as the CD player is
controlled by tactile push buttons. In fact, I don't think I have ever
seen a CD player that used any kind of locking switches ...

DUH!

I guess I'm getting CD transports confused with cassette transports.

Nevertheless... What did the OP mean?

Indeed. Possibly a linguistic thing, as has also been suggested ?

Arfa