Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
MORE UPDATE:Here is an update:
Using a "lo-pwr ohms" (low voltage) B&K meter, I measured about 5.5
ohms across the bank of 2200/6.3 caps numbers C146, C147, C148, etc. Note:
This reading is not caused by charging. I switched to "hi-pwr ohms" and the
reading dropped to 4.4 ohms. Note: 412mV measured (via a DMM) across B&K
meter probes during "hi-pwr" ohms reading.
It is possible that one or more of these caps is the cause of this low
ohms reading (not normal). There are about 9 or 10 caps in parallel.
Hi Larry,Many Dell Pentium 4 motherboards contain bad Nichicon brand capacitors because Nichicon goofed up the production of models HM(M) and HN(M) from about 2002-2004. The date codes are in the form LYYMM, where L is a letter, YY = last 2 digits of the year, and MM = week of the year. So H0324 means the year 2003, week #24. 4-5 of those capacitors are 1500uF, 6.3V, 10mm diameter and located around the DIMM sockets and AGP socket. Behind the CPU are about ten 1800uF, 6.3V, 8mm caps and another 3-4 1800uF, 16V, 10mm caps on the other side of the MOSFET heatsink. Those may be Rubycon brand (big "K" stamped in the tops) model MBZ or MCZ instead of Nichicon (big "+" stamped into tops). The Rubycons were never defective, but TheCapKing.com says the Pentium4 was so power hungry that even those caps can go bad in 5 years. Most caps in motherboards can't be tested with an ESR meter except by unsoldering them because so many are in parallel.
Some people replace conventional wet electrolytic caps with dry solid polymer caps, which are more durable in heat. Here's some information about doing that:
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=4969&highlight=gx-270
BadCaps.net not only has a great deal of information but also sells high quality caps.
Be careful about counterfeit caps. DealExtreme has sold them, some being pretty obvious fakes (Teapo brans substituted from Sanyo or Nichicon), and apparently only one Ebay dealer sells only genuine caps:
http://stores.ebay.com/PC-MotherBoard-Capacitors-Store
the white crud is from letting the pink slime dry. you have to reallyOn Fri, 22 Feb 2013 17:02:05 +0000, Danny D. wrote:
UPDATE:
I'm finding more and more uses for the phosphoric acid you guys suggested!
http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/12362092/img/12362092.jpg
After ten minutes, I see that buttery white stuff again.
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/12362093/img/12362093.jpg
The unknown white lard 'seems' to be where the rust was heaviest.
When I used to do my aluminum wheels, the navel jelly would dry to aOn Fri, 22 Feb 2013 17:02:05 +0000, Danny D. wrote:
UPDATE:
I'm finding more and more uses for the phosphoric acid you guys suggested!
http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/12362092/img/12362092.jpg
After ten minutes, I see that buttery white stuff again.
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/12362093/img/12362093.jpg
The unknown white lard 'seems' to be where the rust was heaviest.
Thanks for explaining what it is.the navel jelly would dry to a whitish finish
"Danny D." <danny@pleasedontemail.com> wrote:
On Fri, 22 Feb 2013 17:02:05 +0000, Danny D. wrote:
UPDATE:
I'm finding more and more uses for the phosphoric acid you guys suggested!
http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/12362092/img/12362092.jpg
After ten minutes, I see that buttery white stuff again.
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/12362093/img/12362093.jpg
The unknown white lard 'seems' to be where the rust was heaviest.
When I used to do my aluminum wheels, the navel jelly would dry to a
whitish finish. I then hosed it off.
Naval Jelly and similar are about 1/3 phosphoric acid, dissolved inI'm still not sure what the white crud itself is- maybe the goo that keeps
the stuff slimy?
The naval aluminum jelly, is the same product, with reduced concentration.gregz <zekor@comcast.net> wrote:
"Danny D." <danny@pleasedontemail.com> wrote:
On Fri, 22 Feb 2013 17:02:05 +0000, Danny D. wrote:
UPDATE:
I'm finding more and more uses for the phosphoric acid you guys suggested!
http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/12362092/img/12362092.jpg
After ten minutes, I see that buttery white stuff again.
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/12362093/img/12362093.jpg
The unknown white lard 'seems' to be where the rust was heaviest.
When I used to do my aluminum wheels, the navel jelly would dry to a
whitish finish. I then hosed it off.
from a bottle of the loctite naval jelly:
"do not use on aluminum."
"If left on too long (hardens), apply more Naval jelly rust dissolver to
remove"
I'm still not sure what the white crud itself is- maybe the goo that keeps
the stuff slimy?
Proof, kook?Don't be fooled by Hall.. His name is Warren:
What does your URL have to do with electronics repair, kook?htt<SMACKAKOOK!
Ok, I was fooled, I thought it was "King Tut"Don't be fooled by Hall.. His name is Warren:
http://newsgroups.derkeiler.com/Archive/Rec/rec.boats.cruising/2010-02/msg00249.html
Capt.Neal@gmail.com
Neal D. Warren/Wilbur Hubbard/Gregory Hall
PO Box 1015
Tavernier, FL 33070
305 304-7546
Hi! Could you sell us the following two items: VTA-66 parallel gap weld head, VTA-60 precision weld head? If so, please tell me the price. Yours sincerely JRI have this welder for sale it includes a WCW-500 constant voltage power
supply, VTA-66 parallel gap weld and reflow soldering head, VTA-60
precision weld head. MA-08-08 foot switch, and weld platform.This system
will (1) weld parallel gap, opposed or offset (2) braze connector leads,
relay blades (3) bond thin film, thick film (4) reflow solder flat pack
(single or multiple lead), discrete components. This is a current model.
For more information contact Gary at Fax 405-525-0545 or E-Mail
Labequip@aol.com
LOL, you just never let up do you honey bunch....That would be the king of shit.
Capt.Neal@
Neal D. Warren/Wilbur Hubbard/Gregory Hall
PO Box 193946873848585838388845607-0r7406i53ii352ip5p6i345pi'23oi245335
Tavern by the Gulf
33w43599ii0o[0pksertk:Owet''9uojee'qdoojw'ofjfojroqwkr4
000 000-0000