Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[Wild_Bill]

I also favor the light temperature of the daylight or sunlight CF lamps,
which are typically over 6000K. My eyes adapt to the light very well,
although I rarely use direct lighting.. most of my CFLs are pointed upward
for bounce lighting.

The majority of incandescents give off a red light, and I've read that up to
90% of the output from incancescent lights is in the infrared region. For
folks that experience cold weather for half of the year, the infrared adds
to their comfort.
This is easily seen when using film photography as the color levels aren't
natural, but shifted so far that a blue filter is needed to achieve natural
colors.

Only the very early versions of CFLs I purchased were slow to reach full
output.. maybe I've just been lucky, but the ones I use every day come on
quickly.

I strongly suspect that widespread use of LED lighting will have a much more
severe impact on the environment that using incandescents.
The environutz are easily mislead.

I believe that the manufacture of LED lighting will use more energy and
create more pollutants than glass lamps ever did. The plastics and various
compounds used for component manufacturing will result in more irreversible
air and water contamination.
The extra slap in the face comes with the excessive plastic packaging the
CFLs are usually sold in.. when old glass lamps were generally packaged in
easily recycled paper products (even as litter, the paper breaks down to
something useful).
In addition to increased energy usage, the waste issue of CFLs and LED
lights presents more pollutants than a simple glass lamp ever did.

The LED lamps aren't going to last for an average of 10 years, not when
they'll be manufactured in China/India/etc by the lowest bidder, and using
lead-free solder and the cheapest components available.
The marketing hype and lip service are BS, as they generally always are.

The data is generally never presented in real-world terms, and there won't
be any significant data presented, such as the conversion of Las Vegas to
LED lighting.

The LED lamps that I've seen at stores won't fit in most common existing
lighting fixtures, and have a price of $30-40US. This will be a huge
unnecessary expense to an average homeowner due to a ban on incandescents.

--
Cheers,
WB
..............


"Sylvia Else" <sylvia@not.here.invalid> wrote in message
news:9drjkhF3v3U1@mid.individual.net...

Having got used to the higher colour temperatures of CFLs, I find that I
prefer them.

Incandescents weren't given a lower colour temperature because people
preferred them, it was just the way they came out. If the first practical
domestic electric lights had been of daylight colour temperature, I
imagine that's what everyone would always have wanted, and people would
have given short shrift to this yellow rubbish.

However, I note that the led emitter strips are available in higher colour
temperatures.

Sylvia.

 

On Sep 20, 3:51 am, "larry moe 'n curly" <larrymoencu...@my-deja.com>
wrote:

On Sep 19, 6:00 pm, Sylvia Else <syl...@not.here.invalid> wrote:



Has anyone here tried retrofitting low ESR capacitors to CFLs with a
view to improving their turn-on performance - i.e. so that they reach
full brightness quickly?

I don't think capacitors are the reason for the brightness change
because even many brand-new CFLs take time to reach full brightness,
especially when in the cold (even 75F).  More likely, the circuitry
just doesn't compensate for the temperature of the fluorescent tube.
For example, here's the circuit board from the base of a failed
Maxlife brand CFL.  The fluorescent tube connects at F1, F2, F3, and
F4, and notice on the far right is a space for a thermistor (PTC) that
connects between F1 and F4 on the other side, through a capacitor, C8,
that's also missing.  The circuit board was built so it shorts across
C8. The big capacitor in the middle is rated 22uF, 200V, and Aishi is
considered a junk brand.

Another problem is opening up the CFL to get to the circuit board and
reattaching the cover because regular glues don't work, and you want a
strong bond that won't fail at high temperature.

.

           http://imageshack.us/f/62/cflinside.jpg/

Can those who have opened them up tell us how best to do it and what
usually dies? I am amassing a collection of duds that didn't reach
anywhere near their promised lifetime (especially the more expensive
higher wattage ones) and I'm idly curious as to what use could be made
of them. From Larry's photo, there's quite a bit of electronics in
there, (which incidentally makes one wonder whether their lifetime
energy saving is really as high as is claimed, but that's another
matter).

Chris

 

[larry moe 'n curly]

Phil Allison wrote:

"larry moe 'n curly"

Another problem is opening up the CFL to get to the circuit board and
reattaching the cover because regular glues don't work, and you want a
strong bond that won't fail at high temperature.

** Most CFLs use no glue at all, the halves snap fit together.

Silicone adhesive ( eg Silastic) will handle the case temp easily - can be
used to secure loose glass tubes in the case too.

The only ones I've tried opening are old large MaxLite (in the photo)
and 5-year-old 14W Commercial Electric (now Home Depot's brand), and
both were glued. I opened them by carefully sawing around the
perimeter. I ended up using a fine-tooth coping saw because my Dremel
abrasive cutoff wheel gummed up with plastic. If the CFLs are snapped
together, how do we unsnap them?

I know silicone rubber glue can take the heat, but is it strong
enough? I worry about it coming loose when somebody screws in the
bulb, causing the bulb wires (magnet wire - only enamel insulation) to
short.

 

[larry moe 'n curly]

Trevor Wilson wrote:

**The full brightness thing is not associated with the electronics. It's an
issue with the gas in the tube and, to a lesser extent, the phosphor
coating.

So why do some CFLs keep the brightness more constant than others?

Don't sweat it anyway, LEDs will replace them in most applications very
soon. I've been mucking about with a couple of these recently:

Aren't LEDs also temperature sensitive? Because I had a hot chassis
TV with optical couplers for the composite video and audio, and the
picture brightness & contrast would change slightly when it warmed
up. There were also pots to adjust the couplers.

 

[Trevor Wilson]

Wild_Bill wrote:

I also favor the light temperature of the daylight or sunlight CF
lamps, which are typically over 6000K. My eyes adapt to the light
very well, although I rarely use direct lighting.. most of my CFLs
are pointed upward for bounce lighting.

The majority of incandescents give off a red light, and I've read
that up to 90% of the output from incancescent lights is in the
infrared region.

**95% ~ 98% is far closer to reality. Halogens are somewhat more efficient.

For folks that experience cold weather for half of

the year, the infrared adds to their comfort.

**So do heat pumps, which are vastly more efficient.

This is easily seen when using film photography as the color levels
aren't natural, but shifted so far that a blue filter is needed to
achieve natural colors.

Only the very early versions of CFLs I purchased were slow to reach
full output.. maybe I've just been lucky, but the ones I use every
day come on quickly.

I strongly suspect that widespread use of LED lighting will have a
much more severe impact on the environment that using incandescents.
The environutz are easily mislead.

**As are you. Provide your proof that LED lighting will have a much more
severe impact on the environment.

I believe that the manufacture of LED lighting will use more energy
and create more pollutants than glass lamps ever did.

**You "believe" it, do you? Got some proof? In your proof, you may consider
the following:

* LEDs use a miniscule amount of silicon.
* Incandescent lamps use a very large amount of silicon
* LEDs can easily last 100 times longer than incandescent lamps.
* LEDs are at least 10 times more efficient than incandescents (and around 5
~ 6 times more efficient than halogens).

The plastics

and various compounds used for component manufacturing will result in
more irreversible air and water contamination.

**Really? Are you trying to suggest that it is impossible to deal with the
pollution caused by the manufacture of semiconductors? Curious.

The extra slap in the face comes with the excessive plastic packaging
the CFLs are usually sold in.

**Huh? You talking about CFLs or LEDs? Either way, the last CFLs and LED
downlights I purchased were packed in recycled cardboard. No plastic in
sight.

.. when old glass lamps were generally

packaged in easily recycled paper products (even as litter, the paper
breaks down to something useful).

**Curiously enough, the last incandescent I purchased (a halogen) was packed
in a cardboard/plastic material. Far less enviroinmentally sensitive than
the LEDs and CFLs I bought.

In addition to increased energy usage, the waste issue of CFLs and LED
lights presents more pollutants than a simple glass lamp ever did.

**Really? What are the waste products you speak of? Have you factored in the
extremely long life of CFLs and LEDs? (I have 19 CFLs in my home, 1
incandescent and a dozen halogens). In six years, I've replaced the
incandescent 2 times (VERY rarely used). I've replaced 10 halogens (rarely
used) and, except for two dropped CFLs, none have been replaced, despite
being used for upwards of 6 hours per day.

The LED lamps aren't going to last for an average of 10 years,

**I'm still using some first generation white LEDs. They're left on 24/7 and
have been for more than 10 years. The latest ones are brighter and should
last much longer.

not

when they'll be manufactured in China/India/etc by the lowest bidder,
and using lead-free solder and the cheapest components available.
The marketing hype and lip service are BS, as they generally always
are.

**YOU have no clue. None whatsoever.

The data is generally never presented in real-world terms, and there
won't be any significant data presented, such as the conversion of
Las Vegas to LED lighting.

The LED lamps that I've seen at stores won't fit in most common
existing lighting fixtures, and have a price of $30-40US. This will
be a huge unnecessary expense to an average homeowner due to a ban on
incandescents.

**More bollocks. LED lighting is rapidly falling in cost. VERY rapidly
indeed. CFLs were expensive a few years back and now they cost barely more
than incandescents. They last many times longer and use far less energy.


--
Trevor Wilson
www.rageaudio.com.au

 

[Trevor Wilson]

larry moe 'n curly wrote:

Trevor Wilson wrote:

**The full brightness thing is not associated with the electronics.
It's an issue with the gas in the tube and, to a lesser extent, the
phosphor coating.

So why do some CFLs keep the brightness more constant than others?

**I can't answer that question. All the ones I use are fine.

Don't sweat it anyway, LEDs will replace them in most applications
very soon. I've been mucking about with a couple of these recently:

Aren't LEDs also temperature sensitive?

**In the same sense that all semiconductors are, yes. Any decent LED
lighting manufacturer will take care of cooling.


--
Trevor Wilson
www.rageaudio.com.au

 

[Sylvia Else]

On 21/09/2011 2:34 AM, Wild_Bill wrote:

Only the very early versions of CFLs I purchased were slow to reach full
output.. maybe I've just been lucky, but the ones I use every day come
on quickly.

My experience has been that they're fine when new, but as they age, they
take longer and longer to reach, or even approach, full brightness.

I had been under the impression from previous discussion that this was
attributed to the deteriorating ESR in cheap capacitors, but that view
doesn't seem to be getting any support here.

Sylvia.

 

[Phil Allison]

"kreed"

It would be a huge hassle to get the case apart, and back together
again,

** Pretty easy with most I have bought .

All the CFL's I have here that have failed, it is always the tube that
is the cause. The electronics - including the filter capacitor are
always fine, so there isnt any point in replacing it even for
longevity reasons.

** Generally, the electronics outlasts the tubes - but that is only
because the tube fails so quickly, like a few hundred up to 2000 hours at
most. I have a collection now of CFLs that are slow to come on, flicker or
have lost 40% of their light output.

The electronics will fail early if the CFL gets hot in use because it is
inside a small light fitting - like an Oyster or spherical ceiling lamp.

http://www.onlinelighting.com.au/images/products/Omega/Deluxe_Oyster_17_5cm.jpg



..... Phil

 

[Arfa Daily]

"Jeff Urban" <jurb6006@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:354e66f2-fad2-44d6-8330-d5d05376cb13@f8g2000yqf.googlegroups.com...

The low brighness when cold is not due to low PS voltages or current,
it is due to the fact that it takes time for the gas to get it up
completely. It may be possible to overshoot the target current/power
when first started to accelerate the process but this is very likely
to decrease the overall life of the CFLs.

Newr units do seem to perform better in that respect, but short of
replacing things with newer versions I think you will just have to be
patient.

J

Best thing would just be to replace the CFLs with incandescent bulbs ...


Arfa

 

[Arfa Daily]

<chrisj.doran%proemail.co.uk@gtempaccount.com> wrote in message
news:dc808a62-5c4b-4fa4-9159-2271eaf15b38@n12g2000yqh.googlegroups.com...

On Sep 20, 3:51 am, "larry moe 'n curly" <larrymoencu...@my-deja.com
wrote:
On Sep 19, 6:00 pm, Sylvia Else <syl...@not.here.invalid> wrote:



Has anyone here tried retrofitting low ESR capacitors to CFLs with a
view to improving their turn-on performance - i.e. so that they reach
full brightness quickly?

I don't think capacitors are the reason for the brightness change
because even many brand-new CFLs take time to reach full brightness,
especially when in the cold (even 75F). More likely, the circuitry
just doesn't compensate for the temperature of the fluorescent tube.
For example, here's the circuit board from the base of a failed
Maxlife brand CFL. The fluorescent tube connects at F1, F2, F3, and
F4, and notice on the far right is a space for a thermistor (PTC) that
connects between F1 and F4 on the other side, through a capacitor, C8,
that's also missing. The circuit board was built so it shorts across
C8. The big capacitor in the middle is rated 22uF, 200V, and Aishi is
considered a junk brand.

Another problem is opening up the CFL to get to the circuit board and
reattaching the cover because regular glues don't work, and you want a
strong bond that won't fail at high temperature.

.

http://imageshack.us/f/62/cflinside.jpg/

Can those who have opened them up tell us how best to do it and what
usually dies? I am amassing a collection of duds that didn't reach
anywhere near their promised lifetime (especially the more expensive
higher wattage ones) and I'm idly curious as to what use could be made
of them. From Larry's photo, there's quite a bit of electronics in
there, (which incidentally makes one wonder whether their lifetime
energy saving is really as high as is claimed, but that's another
matter).

Chris

Best use that could be made of them is to grind 'em up and use them for
hardcore for road building ...

Arfa

 

[Arfa Daily]

"Sylvia Else" <sylvia@not.here.invalid> wrote in message
news:9drjkhF3v3U1@mid.individual.net...

On 20/09/2011 1:11 PM, Trevor Wilson wrote:
Sylvia Else wrote:
Has anyone here tried retrofitting low ESR capacitors to CFLs with a
view to improving their turn-on performance - i.e. so that they reach
full brightness quickly?

Sylvia.

**The full brightness thing is not associated with the electronics. It's
an
issue with the gas in the tube and, to a lesser extent, the phosphor
coating. You can prove this for yourself, by measuring the light output
of a
standard (iron ballast) fluoro. Light output gradually increases over a
few
seconds (or minutes, depending on ambient temperature).

Don't sweat it anyway, LEDs will replace them in most applications very
soon. I've been mucking about with a couple of these recently:

http://www.dealextreme.com/p/12w-3500k-800lm-warm-white-led-emitter-metal-strip-12-14v-80310

It delivers almost double the light output of an 11 Watt T5 fluoro and is
far more compact, dimmable and has nicer colour temperature.


Having got used to the higher colour temperatures of CFLs, I find that I
prefer them.

Incandescents weren't given a lower colour temperature because people
preferred them, it was just the way they came out. If the first practical
domestic electric lights had been of daylight colour temperature, I
imagine that's what everyone would always have wanted, and people would
have given short shrift to this yellow rubbish.

However, I note that the led emitter strips are available in higher colour
temperatures.

Sylvia.

I was given to understand that the colour of an incandescent bulb is what
humans are comfortable with, because it closely matches the colour and
spectrum of our sun. As I have said on here before, I for one, am not
comfortable with the light quality from CFLs, no matter what variety or
supposed colour temperature they are. I fully accept that this might be to
do with my eyes or brain or whatever, and that others don't feel that they
have the problem, but by the same token, I know many other people -
particularly over 50's like myself - that have the same difficulty with
them. Thus far, I have not been that impressed with the spectrum or light
quality from LEDs in a domestic setting either, but this technology is
currently moving and improving fast, so I'll keep an open mind on that at
the moment.

Arfa

 

[Arfa Daily]

"Wild_Bill" <wb_wildbill@XSPAMyahoo.com> wrote in message
news:Vg3eq.201926$k33.12586@en-nntp-13.dc1.easynews.com...

I also favor the light temperature of the daylight or sunlight CF lamps,
which are typically over 6000K. My eyes adapt to the light very well,
although I rarely use direct lighting.. most of my CFLs are pointed upward
for bounce lighting.

The majority of incandescents give off a red light, and I've read that up
to 90% of the output from incancescent lights is in the infrared region.
For folks that experience cold weather for half of the year, the infrared
adds to their comfort.
This is easily seen when using film photography as the color levels aren't
natural, but shifted so far that a blue filter is needed to achieve
natural colors.

Only the very early versions of CFLs I purchased were slow to reach full
output.. maybe I've just been lucky, but the ones I use every day come on
quickly.

I strongly suspect that widespread use of LED lighting will have a much
more severe impact on the environment that using incandescents.
The environutz are easily mislead.

I believe that the manufacture of LED lighting will use more energy and
create more pollutants than glass lamps ever did. The plastics and various
compounds used for component manufacturing will result in more
irreversible air and water contamination.
The extra slap in the face comes with the excessive plastic packaging the
CFLs are usually sold in.. when old glass lamps were generally packaged in
easily recycled paper products (even as litter, the paper breaks down to
something useful).
In addition to increased energy usage, the waste issue of CFLs and LED
lights presents more pollutants than a simple glass lamp ever did.

The LED lamps aren't going to last for an average of 10 years, not when
they'll be manufactured in China/India/etc by the lowest bidder, and using
lead-free solder and the cheapest components available.
The marketing hype and lip service are BS, as they generally always are.

The data is generally never presented in real-world terms, and there won't
be any significant data presented, such as the conversion of Las Vegas to
LED lighting.

The LED lamps that I've seen at stores won't fit in most common existing
lighting fixtures, and have a price of $30-40US. This will be a huge
unnecessary expense to an average homeowner due to a ban on incandescents.

--
Cheers,
WB

I'm really not sure that I understand your point here. You seem in favour of
CFLs, but against LEDs because they will have a greater environmental impact
than incandescents did. Well yes. That is of course true, but the
manufacturing processes involved in a CFL lamp, are still many more than in
a LED lamp, with a correspondingly larger energy budget to make and ship all
those parts. Further, the CFLs have a higher disposal energy budget, because
they contain toxic chemicals that have to be recycled properly. Granted, LED
fixtures should probably also be recycled if only to regain the materials,
but at least they are not fundamentally toxic as CFLs are, and it would be
no great shakes from an environmental impact point of view, if they did
finish up in landfill. It's the fact that the green mist brigade only see
the "less power used" angle of CFLs, and not the hugely complex and
energy-thirsty manufacturing processes, that really gets up my nose.

Arfa

 

[kreed]

On Sep 21, 1:39 am, chrisj.doran%proemail.co...@gtempaccount.com
wrote:

On Sep 20, 3:51 am, "larry moe 'n curly" <larrymoencu...@my-deja.com
wrote:



On Sep 19, 6:00 pm, Sylvia Else <syl...@not.here.invalid> wrote:

Has anyone here tried retrofitting low ESR capacitors to CFLs with a
view to improving their turn-on performance - i.e. so that they reach
full brightness quickly?

I don't think capacitors are the reason for the brightness change
because even many brand-new CFLs take time to reach full brightness,
especially when in the cold (even 75F).  More likely, the circuitry
just doesn't compensate for the temperature of the fluorescent tube.
For example, here's the circuit board from the base of a failed
Maxlife brand CFL.  The fluorescent tube connects at F1, F2, F3, and
F4, and notice on the far right is a space for a thermistor (PTC) that
connects between F1 and F4 on the other side, through a capacitor, C8,
that's also missing.  The circuit board was built so it shorts across
C8. The big capacitor in the middle is rated 22uF, 200V, and Aishi is
considered a junk brand.

Another problem is opening up the CFL to get to the circuit board and
reattaching the cover because regular glues don't work, and you want a
strong bond that won't fail at high temperature.

.

           http://imageshack.us/f/62/cflinside.jpg/

Can those who have opened them up tell us how best to do it and what
usually dies? I am amassing a collection of duds that didn't reach
anywhere near their promised lifetime (especially the more expensive
higher wattage ones) and I'm idly curious as to what use could be made
of them. From Larry's photo, there's quite a bit of electronics in
there, (which incidentally makes one wonder whether their lifetime
energy saving is really as high as is claimed, but that's another
matter).

Chris

They will happily run a normal (straight or circular) fluro without
any electrical problems, and would save power compared to an ironcore
ballast.

If you were going to do this and fit them in a standard batten, I
would replace the electrolytics with a decent name brand first as the
cheap caps are unlikely to last the many, many years that a typical
household batten does..

 

[kreed]

On Sep 20, 11:00 am, Sylvia Else <syl...@not.here.invalid> wrote:

Has anyone here tried retrofitting low ESR capacitors to CFLs with a
view to improving their turn-on performance - i.e. so that they reach
full brightness quickly?

Sylvia.

It would be a huge hassle to get the case apart, and back together
again, and I can't see it making any difference whatsoever.


All the CFL's I have here that have failed, it is always the tube that
is the cause. The electronics - including the filter capacitor are
always fine, so there isnt any point in replacing it even for
longevity reasons.

 

[Arfa Daily]

"Phil Allison" <phil_a@tpg.com.au> wrote in message
news:9dst2kFsldU1@mid.individual.net...

"Arfa Daily"

Best thing would just be to replace the CFLs with incandescent bulbs ...


** Incandescent bulbs have a HUGE list of advantages over CFLs - among
them:

1. Full spectrum, warm colour light.

2. All examples use same, long proven technology and have near identical
characteristics.

3. Full dimmable with any dimmer.

4. Very fast on and no change in light output or colour during life.

5. Resistive load = ideal power factor and no RFI.

6. Life of lamp easily extended by use of dimmers out to many thousands
of hours.

7. Will operate normally in very cold and very hot environments.

8. Inherently water, steam and condensation proof.

9. No deterioration in storage, indefinite life in low use situations.

10. Fail in a safe, predictable manner with no smoke or fire hazard.

11. Multiple lamps up to rated load may be used on a circuit, CFLs
require circuits to be de-rated by 90%.

12. Can be used in any light fitting without loss of life span.

13. No Mercury hazard if broken or when disposed of.

14 No pollution hazard during manufacture or disposal.

15. No loss of life span when cycled on and off often as you like.

16. Much lower purchase cost that good quality CFLs.


Not one of the above is true for CFLs.

There are many ordinary lighting applications that typical CFLs cannot do
at all.

Banning regular incandescents from sale was green lunatic madness.



.... Phil

Wahey ! That's the closest we've ever been to one another on anything on
here, Phil !

Arfa

 

[Arfa Daily]

"Trevor Wilson" <trevor@rageaudio.com.au> wrote in message
news:9dse5pFcrmU1@mid.individual.net...

the following:

<snip>

* LEDs use a miniscule amount of silicon.
* Incandescent lamps use a very large amount of silicon

Whereabouts ?

Arfa

 

[Sylvia Else]

On 21/09/2011 11:14 AM, Arfa Daily wrote:

"Sylvia Else" <sylvia@not.here.invalid> wrote in message
news:9drjkhF3v3U1@mid.individual.net...
On 20/09/2011 1:11 PM, Trevor Wilson wrote:
Sylvia Else wrote:
Has anyone here tried retrofitting low ESR capacitors to CFLs with a
view to improving their turn-on performance - i.e. so that they reach
full brightness quickly?

Sylvia.

**The full brightness thing is not associated with the electronics.
It's an
issue with the gas in the tube and, to a lesser extent, the phosphor
coating. You can prove this for yourself, by measuring the light
output of a
standard (iron ballast) fluoro. Light output gradually increases over
a few
seconds (or minutes, depending on ambient temperature).

Don't sweat it anyway, LEDs will replace them in most applications very
soon. I've been mucking about with a couple of these recently:

http://www.dealextreme.com/p/12w-3500k-800lm-warm-white-led-emitter-metal-strip-12-14v-80310


It delivers almost double the light output of an 11 Watt T5 fluoro
and is
far more compact, dimmable and has nicer colour temperature.


Having got used to the higher colour temperatures of CFLs, I find that
I prefer them.

Incandescents weren't given a lower colour temperature because people
preferred them, it was just the way they came out. If the first
practical domestic electric lights had been of daylight colour
temperature, I imagine that's what everyone would always have wanted,
and people would have given short shrift to this yellow rubbish.

However, I note that the led emitter strips are available in higher
colour temperatures.

Sylvia.



I was given to understand that the colour of an incandescent bulb is
what humans are comfortable with, because it closely matches the colour
and spectrum of our sun.

The sun's effective temperature (the blackbody temperature that gives
approximately the same spectrum) is about 5800K, which is a lot higher
than the colour temperature of an incandescent.

The light from an incandescent is deficient in the blue end of the
spectrum, which makes blue-coloured objects look darker than they should.

Sylvia.

 

[Phil Allison]

"Arfa Daily"
"Trevor Wilson"

snip

* LEDs use a miniscule amount of silicon.
* Incandescent lamps use a very large amount of silicon

Whereabouts ?

** The TW charlatan is being a real clever dick.

Glass is about 23% silicon by weight.

Got NOTHING to do with the very nasty polluting and carcinogenic processes
involved in making silicon semiconductors.


..... Phil

 

[Sylvia Else]

On 21/09/2011 11:39 AM, Arfa Daily wrote:

"Trevor Wilson" <trevor@rageaudio.com.au> wrote in message
news:9dse5pFcrmU1@mid.individual.net...
the following:


snip

* LEDs use a miniscule amount of silicon.
* Incandescent lamps use a very large amount of silicon

Whereabouts ?

In the glass.

But we're never going to run out of silicon.

Sylvia.

 

[Phil Allison]

"Sylvia Else"
Arfa Daily wrote:

I was given to understand that the colour of an incandescent bulb is
what humans are comfortable with, because it closely matches the colour
and spectrum of our sun.

The sun's effective temperature (the blackbody temperature that gives
approximately the same spectrum) is about 5800K, which is a lot higher
than the colour temperature of an incandescent.

** Daylight has no particular colour temp.

It varies from 11,000K on a overcasts day to less than 2000K at dawn and
dusk.

However, daylight ( like incandescent light ) has a smooth spectrum and the
human eye adjusts to the varying colour temps almost perfectly.

The light from an incandescent is deficient in the blue end of the
spectrum, which makes blue-coloured objects look darker than they should.

** Bollocks.


.... Phil