Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[RosemontCrest]

On Jan 11, 8:29 am, PeterD <pet...@hipson.net> wrote:

On Sun, 10 Jan 2010 14:02:00 -0800, Joseph Donner

josephdonne...@yahoo.com> wrote:
On Sun, 10 Jan 2010 09:49:42 -0500, PeterD wrote:

Do you know what size PVC conduit & how deep to bury low-voltage wires in?

How many wires? Usually 1/2" PVC works OK. Deep: about 16 inches, if
low voltage circuit in conduit. Deeper if possible if no conduit.

I will probably put two sets of double-stranded 16AWG wire in the conduit.
One set will be for the 18VAC power and the other set for the intercom.

16 inches seems pretty deep. I was thinking more like half that (there is
no frost here).

YOu want it below where any landscaping/gardening/maintenance is
likely to hit it. That's the 16 inches.

Exactly. It's not just the concern of frost damage. I would bury it at
least 24".

 

[who where]

On Sat, 09 Jan 2010 22:24:05 -0800, mike <spamme0@go.com> wrote:

who where wrote:
On Sun, 10 Jan 2010 11:34:06 +0800, who where <noone@home.net> wrote:

I'm no stranger to Li-Ion behaviour, having studied them a fair bit
and having designed commercial chargers. I think I know what the
issue is here, but would appreciate informed comment from others.

Laptop pack, "Li-Ion 10v8 @ 4500mAh" Haven't opened it up yet, but
NiXX chemistry wouldn't achieve the capacity in that size anyway.

Charge in laptop (AC on, machine off), indicator LED goes green after
~ 3 hours. After 1/2 hour "rest", boot to Windoze on battery power,
on-screen gauge shows 100% declining to 54% after 2 hours operation.
Resume AC supply, turn machine off, battery recharges to green LED
status (not timed). Rest 1/2 hour, measure pack terminal volts =
12v51. Leave pack out of machine.

Ten hours later, measure 12v48. Alles ist gut. Insert pack into
machine (no AC) and boot. Reach desktop, then machine shuts off.
Restore AC, reboot and check on-screen gauge - "2% and charging".

Clealry the pack has usable capacity as it sustained 2 hours'
operation without drama.

Clearly??? The initial conclusion from the experimental evidence
suggests the "it did".

Indeed.

Clearly the pack did *not* self-discharge in
the ten hours. Right now it is "recharging", meaning going through
the motions to satisfy the electronics - while the pack is already
effectively at full SOC.

What I failed to do is measure the pack voltage *after* the premature
shutdown. Will do that on a later test.

Pack voltage is mostly irrelevant. Bad voltage implies a bad pack.
Good voltage implies nothing.

Would disagree completely. For a healthy - or even reasonably usable
- cell/pack, the OC voltage gives a very good indication of SOC. The
voltages measured reflect close to 100% charge.

What that means in terms of degraded cells/packs' capability to
operate a load depends on the type of degradation. Loss of usable
capacity still validates the "100% SOC" comment, it just applies a
different scale to the discharge curve.

Increase in effective series resistance will obviously have an effect
on operation under load, and may well result in not just premature
shutoff but in failure to accept load.

Having accepted that this pack *can* hold load for 2 hours with some
capacity remaining, it is a reasonable assumption that internal cell
resistance isn't causing the failure to accept load after a rest
period.

Follow-up: After another premature shutdown (which was prefaced by a
warning message "you should shut down immediately to save your work"
or similar), the pack was removed and measure 12v52.

Possibilities that I see are:

(a) the pack protection module decided prematurely (on some basis)
that the pack was exhausted.

(b) the laptop, based on data (or lack of) from the pack's
electronics, made that call. The pack is "brand X", and the on-screen
SOC panel tags it "standard APM battery" and "Manufacturer: unknown"

Anyone seen this type of behaviour before? Comments? Ideas?

Battery controller IC's are not designed to optimize the life of the
battery. They're designed to limit the liability of the vendor.
They're designed to protect you from suing the vendor.
They're designed to be lowest cost.
They sell more high-margin batteries, so there's little incentive to fix it.

A tad cynical.

Having worked with these pack protection modules I understand pretty
well the criteria for their intervention. Unless the raw cell
behaviour changes dramatically after a ten (vs. 1/2) hour rest period,
I can't see an alternative to the module's intervention. But I am
open to suggestions that explain - or at least fit in with - that
behaviour.

Lithium batteries increase in series resistance as they age.
I've taken failed packs that won't even run the computer long enough to
boot and discharged a significant portion of the capacity from them.
Problem is that the resistance is high and lapotp peak currents are high.
The voltage dips and the machine shuts off. The electrons are in there,
but the system won't let you get them out. You could set the trip
voltage lower, but then you'd overdischarge a good pack. There's
considerable opportunity to have better gas-gauge performance,
but it comes with risk of being sued. Keep it safe, no matter what
it costs the customer.

The gas gauges have varying sophistication, but measure charge in/out
and voltage on a cell basis. Some have memory that remembers the current
capacity of the
cell to more realistically represent the available run time left.
Bad news is that these can get out of sync. Some can get back in
sync, others can't. In many cases, you can replace the cells
and the chip still remembers that the pack is bad. This can be
reset, but nobody will divulge how...to protect you from hurting yourself.

Aware of the above, including how to reset some - but I'm not about to
expose myself to risk of litigation by passing it on.

One limp cell can cause the pack to be bad even though the pack voltage
seems to be ok. And a bad cell surely can self-discharge overnight.

But self-discharge isn't going to present the same OC voltage.

 

[hr(bob) hofmann@att.net]

On Feb 3, 6:54 am, mathi <mathi.ar...@gmail.com> wrote:

This site,http://www.shoppingreps.com?SourceId=1244allows customers
to work as group representative to a group of people. It is a
fantastic idea. I want to buy a cell phone and I registered my
intention. I am waiting for more than 1 week but I didn’t get any
email or any other information about my group. I am supposed to get a
chance for bargaining in my city. I know a couple of store where I can
bargain very well quite interesting. This is the site see for yourselfhttp://www.shoppingreps.com?SourceId=1244

SUCKER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[Michael Shell]

On Sun, 21 Feb 2010 00:58:18 -0600
Tim Wescott <tim@seemywebsite.com> wrote:

One of my boxen runs for a while, then (in Linux at least) kernel panics
and resets (in Windows it resets, but I haven't stood over it to know if
Windows notices the problem). My kid and I were working on it today to
reinstall Ubuntu on the theory that the software was just royally
screwed, which is when I noticed the kernel panicking.

Check the BIOS settings, and if possible alter them (memory timing, CPU
speed, etc.) to use more conservative settings. If the BIOS settings were
not improper (overclocking) and the problem goes away, don't expect it
to be a permanent fix as the faulty part is likely to continue to
deteriorate until even the more conservative settings will not keep
it stable.

The next thing I would do is buy/get one new memory module. Then, run on
just that one for awhile. If the problem does not happen at all, one of
your original memory modules is probably bad. Reintroducing them one
by one should reveal the troublemaker.

You can use a hair dryer (watch your operating temps, don't over do
the heat) and freeze spray on the CPU and main chips to see if one
is thermally sensitive.

You can try pulling cards and see if one is causing problems on the
power supply or bus, but I have not see cards cause problems like this
often in practice (it usually shows up as problems related to the
function of the card).

The next thing I would do is swap out the power supply.

What remains is problems with the onboard chips or electrolytic
capacitors which probably means a new motherboard is in order. If you
want a recommendation here, I've had good experiences from those from
Tyan.

I have found that compiling a Linux kernel:

http://www.kernel.org/

can present a more intensive test than many memory test routines,
although I would still suggest you try them. IMHO, a machine should
not be put into service until it can show that it can compile
a kernel a few times after being fully warmed up (run for a
couple hours before compiling).

BTW, I'm CCing this to sci.electronics.repair as that is a better
place to ask this.


Cheers,

Mike Shell

 

On Feb 21, 3:41 am, Michael Shell <ne...@michaelshell.org> wrote:

On Sun, 21 Feb 2010 00:58:18 -0600

Tim Wescott <t...@seemywebsite.com> wrote:
One of my boxen runs for a while, then (in Linux at least) kernel panics
and resets (in Windows it resets, but I haven't stood over it to know if
Windows notices the problem).  My kid and I were working on it today to
reinstall Ubuntu on the theory that the software was just royally
screwed, which is when I noticed the kernel panicking.

Check the BIOS settings, and if possible alter them (memory timing, CPU
speed, etc.) to use more conservative settings. If the BIOS settings were
not improper (overclocking) and the problem goes away, don't expect it
to be a permanent fix as the faulty part is likely to continue to
deteriorate until even the more conservative settings will not keep
it stable.

The next thing I would do is buy/get one new memory module. Then, run on
just that one for awhile. If the problem does not happen at all, one of
your original memory modules is probably bad. Reintroducing them one
by one should reveal the troublemaker.

You can use a hair dryer (watch your operating temps, don't over do
the heat) and freeze spray on the CPU and main chips to see if one
is thermally sensitive.

You can try pulling cards and see if one is causing problems on the
power supply or bus, but I have not see cards cause problems like this
often in practice (it usually shows up as problems related to the
function of the card).

The next thing I would do is swap out the power supply.

What remains is problems with the onboard chips or electrolytic
capacitors which probably means a new motherboard is in order. If you
want a recommendation here, I've had good experiences from those from
Tyan.

I have found that compiling a Linux kernel:

http://www.kernel.org/

can present a more intensive test than many memory test routines,
although I would still suggest you try them. IMHO, a machine should
not be put into service until it can show that it can compile
a kernel a few times after being fully warmed up (run for a
couple hours before compiling).

BTW, I'm CCing this to sci.electronics.repair as that is a better
place to ask this.

  Cheers,

  Mike Shell

How old is the board? Bulging caps? Flaky power supplies mimic lots of
othe problems,

G˛

 

[Michael Shell]

On Sun, 21 Feb 2010 22:58:57 -0600
Tim Wescott <tim@seemywebsite.com> wrote:

We've replaced the power supply, and drives, and played 'swap the memory'
games -- still does it. The caps on the mobo look good, so either it's a
bad cap that's not visibly bad, or it's a CPU fit issue.

Sometimes the problem can be mechanically affected. You can try using
an insulated (e.g., a plastic pencil with rubber eraser tip) rod to
press around and tap the chips and a few places on the PCB. Sometimes
there are bad solder joints that can show up this way and these often
are affected by temperature as well.

A CPU substitution might be a good idea if you have another unit. Be
sure and check the CPU voltage settings too.


Cheers,

Mike

 

On Feb 22, 1:03 am, Michael Shell <ne...@michaelshell.org> wrote:

On Sun, 21 Feb 2010 22:58:57 -0600

Tim Wescott <t...@seemywebsite.com> wrote:
We've replaced the power supply, and drives, and played 'swap the memory'
games -- still does it.  The caps on the mobo look good, so either it's a
bad cap that's not visibly bad, or it's a CPU fit issue.

Sometimes the problem can be mechanically affected. You can try using
an insulated (e.g., a plastic pencil with rubber eraser tip) rod to
press around and tap the chips and a few places on the PCB. Sometimes
there are bad solder joints that can show up this way and these often
are affected by temperature as well.

A CPU substitution might be a good idea if you have another unit. Be
sure and check the CPU voltage settings too.

  Cheers,

  Mike

How many erratic CPUs have you ever run into? Personally I've worked
around hundreds of PCs and when they go flaky it's most likely bad
power from bad caps in power supplies and on the motherboard. Memory
fails but much less often and processors even less often than memory.
Look for caps and beware of ESR meters. Design engineers often
parallel small value ceramics with the 'lytics that can fool ESR
meters. Removing suspect caps and checking out of circuit. If the ESR
meter says it's bad, it IS, if it says it's good, it might or might
not be. If several identical caps on a board are bad while identical
ones measure 'good', change them all and if it makes you feel better,
check the removed ones after they're out but change them. You will be
right >90% of the time.

BTW I had a mobo last year that the caps looked absolutely fine but
measured terrible. I got to work on it after the IT guys tried the
memory and CPU swap game with no luck. BUY GOOD CAPS !!! Beware of
little brown mists near the caps which is acid leaking out. ALWAYS
change those AND clean the acid off the board.

G˛

 

[RFI-EMI-GUY]

On 2/22/2010 4:03 AM, Michael Shell wrote:

On Sun, 21 Feb 2010 22:58:57 -0600
Tim Wescott<tim@seemywebsite.com> wrote:


We've replaced the power supply, and drives, and played 'swap the memory'
games -- still does it. The caps on the mobo look good, so either it's a
bad cap that's not visibly bad, or it's a CPU fit issue.


Sometimes the problem can be mechanically affected. You can try using
an insulated (e.g., a plastic pencil with rubber eraser tip) rod to
press around and tap the chips and a few places on the PCB. Sometimes
there are bad solder joints that can show up this way and these often
are affected by temperature as well.

A CPU substitution might be a good idea if you have another unit. Be
sure and check the CPU voltage settings too.


Cheers,

Mike

I got roped into fixing a friends-friends TV. This was in days before
DVR/VCR's. I get to their house and they are watching their favorite TV
show on their small TV and it is upside down on a chair! It worked
upside down but not right side up! This was a good sign as I knew I
probably wouldn't need to do more than solder a loose part and I would
be a hero!

I opened the back up and asked the wife for a small artists paintbrush
and brushed it on the parts on the PC board until the problem
reoccurred. Turned out to be cold solder on a coil or delay line widget.





--
Joe Leikhim K4SAT
"The RFI-EMI-GUY"Š

"Use only Genuine Interocitor Parts" Tom Servo ;-P

 

[Sansui Samari]

On Feb 22, 10:19 pm, stratu...@yahoo.com wrote:

On Feb 22, 1:03 am, Michael Shell <ne...@michaelshell.org> wrote:



On Sun, 21 Feb 2010 22:58:57 -0600

Tim Wescott <t...@seemywebsite.com> wrote:
We've replaced the power supply, and drives, and played 'swap the memory'
games -- still does it.  The caps on the mobo look good, so either it's a
bad cap that's not visibly bad, or it's a CPU fit issue.

Sometimes the problem can be mechanically affected. You can try using
an insulated (e.g., a plastic pencil with rubber eraser tip) rod to
press around and tap the chips and a few places on the PCB. Sometimes
there are bad solder joints that can show up this way and these often
are affected by temperature as well.

A CPU substitution might be a good idea if you have another unit. Be
sure and check the CPU voltage settings too.

  Cheers,

  Mike

How many erratic CPUs have you ever run into? Personally I've worked
around hundreds of PCs and when they go flaky it's most likely bad
power from bad caps in power supplies and on the motherboard. Memory
fails but much less often and processors even less often than memory.
Look for caps and beware of ESR meters. Design engineers often
parallel small value ceramics with the 'lytics that can fool ESR
meters. Removing suspect caps and checking out of circuit. If the ESR
meter says it's bad, it IS, if it says it's good, it might or might
not be. If several identical caps on a board are bad while identical
ones measure 'good', change them all and if it makes you feel better,
check the removed ones after they're out but change them. You will be
right >90% of the time.

BTW I had a mobo last year that the caps looked absolutely fine but
measured terrible. I got to work on it after the IT guys tried the
memory and CPU swap game with no luck. BUY GOOD CAPS !!! Beware of
little brown mists near the caps which is acid leaking out. ALWAYS
change those AND clean the acid off the board.

G˛

I agree, probably 85% of the time, it's a flaky power supply. That is
if after you've cleaned all of the components thoroughly, it still
fails. I've found on many of the newer(cheaper) supplies, the fan in
the supply fails long before the caps. Probably the next most common
issues that I've encountered are video card, ram, motherboard then
hard drive. In that order. Although, the video card probably
wouldn't cause a kernel panic. I did have one motherboard that had a
video memory error, it finally became such an issue that it wouldn't
even POST. Which sucks, because I could have used a video card
instead if I could have booted without having to rewrite the bios....
anyhow off topic.

What does the system consist of?

 

[Sansui Samari]

On Feb 25, 1:19 am, Sansui Samari <jimjam1...@gmail.com> wrote:

On Feb 22, 10:19 pm, stratu...@yahoo.com wrote:



On Feb 22, 1:03 am, Michael Shell <ne...@michaelshell.org> wrote:

On Sun, 21 Feb 2010 22:58:57 -0600

Tim Wescott <t...@seemywebsite.com> wrote:
We've replaced the power supply, and drives, and played 'swap the memory'
games -- still does it.  The caps on the mobo look good, so either it's a
bad cap that's not visibly bad, or it's a CPU fit issue.

Sometimes the problem can be mechanically affected. You can try using
an insulated (e.g., a plastic pencil with rubber eraser tip) rod to
press around and tap the chips and a few places on the PCB. Sometimes
there are bad solder joints that can show up this way and these often
are affected by temperature as well.

A CPU substitution might be a good idea if you have another unit. Be
sure and check the CPU voltage settings too.

  Cheers,

  Mike

How many erratic CPUs have you ever run into? Personally I've worked
around hundreds of PCs and when they go flaky it's most likely bad
power from bad caps in power supplies and on the motherboard. Memory
fails but much less often and processors even less often than memory.
Look for caps and beware of ESR meters. Design engineers often
parallel small value ceramics with the 'lytics that can fool ESR
meters. Removing suspect caps and checking out of circuit. If the ESR
meter says it's bad, it IS, if it says it's good, it might or might
not be. If several identical caps on a board are bad while identical
ones measure 'good', change them all and if it makes you feel better,
check the removed ones after they're out but change them. You will be
right >90% of the time.

BTW I had a mobo last year that the caps looked absolutely fine but
measured terrible. I got to work on it after the IT guys tried the
memory and CPU swap game with no luck. BUY GOOD CAPS !!! Beware of
little brown mists near the caps which is acid leaking out. ALWAYS
change those AND clean the acid off the board.

G˛

I agree, probably 85% of the time, it's a flaky power supply.  That is
if after you've cleaned all of the components thoroughly, it still
fails.  I've found on many of the newer(cheaper) supplies, the fan in
the supply fails long before the caps. Probably the next most common
issues that I've encountered are video card, ram, motherboard then
hard drive.  In that order.  Although, the video card probably
wouldn't cause a kernel panic.  I did have one motherboard that had a
video memory error, it finally became such an issue that it wouldn't
even POST.  Which sucks, because I could have used a video card
instead if I could have booted without having to rewrite the bios....
anyhow off topic.

What does the system consist of?

Oh, and I'd add CPU fan or bad thermal paste in the list between video
card and ram... I've never actually had a flaky CPU. Cross my fingers.

 

[JeffM]

lal wrote:
http://safebrowsing.clients.google.com/safebrowsing/diagnostic?site=123maza.com/
"includes 86 exploit(s), 7 trojan(s), 2 scripting exploit(s)"

I hope you die a slow painful death, asshole.

 

[Franc Zabkar]

On Sat, 27 Mar 2010 15:54:27 +0100, "nitro2"
<nitro2-remove-this-@scarlet.be> put finger to keyboard and composed:

a little plastic lever has been found on the bottom of the unit .

it is not broken0ff of something but maybe came loose when holding the unit
vertical whilst cleaning the cabinet.

since it is white with the famous pink grease marks i assume it is from the
drive itself , but cannot find the place where it should
go.......................

Philips VCR service manual Deck: Turbo Drive, Queen volume Covers:
VR171, VR175, VR276, VR277, VR475, VR476, VR477, VR675, VR676, SB100,
SB105, SB205, SB405, SB505, SB605, SB705, DV105, DV605, 20DV7, 25DV7,
45DV7, 65DV7, MV1971:
http://www.eserviceinfo.com/downloadsm/39847/Philips_Philips%20VCR%20service%20manual%20Deck:%20Turbo%20Drive,%20Queen%20volume%20Covers:%20VR171,%20VR175,%20VR276,%20VR277,%20VR475.html

3-part service manual:
http://www.eserviceinfo.com/downloadsm/19136/Philips_VR171,VR175,VR276,VR277,VR475,VR476,VR477,VR675,VR676,SB100,SB105,SB205,SB405,SB505,SB605,SB705,DV10.html

- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 'i' from my address when replying by email.

 

[ancient-time-traveler]

On Mar 28, 12:06 am, "Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terr...@earthlink.net>
wrote:

ancient-time-traveler wrote:

On Mar 27, 7:49 pm, "William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgee...@comcast.net
wrote:
William: A gyroscope isn't an insect, you moron.
Who knows William's intent? Was it a flame? Humorous retort?
When someone calls me a moron I tend to take it seriously.
Do you feel it's okay to use strong language, then object when
it's thrown back at you (whether seriously or in humor)?
I didn't use strong language at you. You had no right to use it with
me.

Then who was the OP -- because my response was directed at that person? If
it wasn't you, why are you taking umbrage? You can't have it both ways (ie,
"I didn't say it, but I'm offended at the response").

So I take it this wasn't a joke after all. That's ok William all
is well my skin is well thickened. I called the mm entity a
fucking idiot because it is just that.

It /was/ a joke, and that should have been perfectly clear days ago.

Sick Ass Bill means it it in the worst possible way you can imagine.To
Sick Ass Bill Everything is a Joke.  Noticed the same people enable
and stick up for Sick Ass Bill. It is about time Sick Ass Bill and his
GOOD buddies start their own group besides that circle thing they do.

   You are a 'Circle jerk of one', as usual.

--
Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to
prove it.
Member of DAV #85.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida

http://www.flickr.com/photos/materrell/

Hey Michael A. Terrell Punk, your DD214 apparently never stop you from
being a punk. You and Sick Ass Bill can play your semantics game, no
one cares.Any reasonable person would question the quality of your So-
called service because you are a punk ass jerk now. I suspect you have
always have been. I and many others have served but do not talk about
it. I certainly would not use my DD-214 as some sort of trump to win
arguments. No one mentioned "Service to my country?" You bring it up
Proves You are a PUNK. You are pathetic.

 

[Arfa Daily]

"Kat Rabun" <katspianostudioXXX@Use-Author-Supplied-Address.invalid> wrote
in message news:hopjt7$qqg$1@tioat.net...

On Sun, 28 Mar 2010 12:44:13 -0500, Joel wrote:

Yes, there is nothing so special about the Garmin's battery besides the
case kinda hard to crack open, and probably the size of batter (?).

I see the part number for a new Garmin nüvi 670 battery is 361-00019-02-1
which differs from that of other Garmin GPS units by the capacity (1500mah
versus 1200mah for others such as the 361-00019-02, D25292-0000, etc.).

While I'm at it, I may as well look for a 2000mah replacement battery (if
some capacity is good, more must be better) ...

Once I find the biggest capacity battery, I'll attempt cracking the case
to
replace it as per the reference tutorial at
http://www.malsingmaps.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=14736&sid=f9608dfee6815b67af8b0c2b68a20b72&start=10

Last place that I bought a replacement battery for my Garmin, it came with a
set of case-prising tools and a miniature Torx driver thrown in. I got it
from a fleaBay store. It was just a blister pack with all the bits to do the
job, in there. The higher capacity battery was slightly fatter, so it was a
bit more of a squeeze to get it into the case, but not too much trouble

Arfa

 

[Kat Rabun]

On Sun, 28 Mar 2010 12:46:29 -0500, Joel wrote:

http://www.malsingmaps.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=14736
My Nuvi-680 has NO screw.

My Garmin nüvi 670 has the same two tiny screws on the back of the flip-up
antenna! And, the battery is exactly the same as that in the tutorial,
except mine is 1500mah while the Garmin nüvi 300 is only of 12mah capacity.

It might be hard to find a teeny tiny T5 phillips screwdriver to remove the
two screws on the antenna and then pick out the watch-band-style locking
pin near the antenna hinge as shown in the tutorial ...

But first, I need to get the battery!

The Garmin nüvi 670 apparently uses a Garmin 3.7 volts 1500 mAh lithium
polymer battery, Garmin P/N "361-00019-02-1".

It's $20 here:
http://www.batteryship.com/htmlos/htmlos.cgi/batteryship/catalog.html?item=361-00019-02-1&model=Garmin+Nuvi+670
And $17 here:
http://www.buy.com/prod/1500mah-li-polymer-replacement-battery-for-garmin-nuvi-670-series/q/listingid/46849553/loc/111/211497893.html

So, first, I'm going to order a battery. Then I'll follow the writeup. This
is excellent information!

Thanks,
Kat

 

[Kat Rabun]

On Sun, 28 Mar 2010 12:44:13 -0500, Joel wrote:

Yes, there is nothing so special about the Garmin's battery besides the
case kinda hard to crack open, and probably the size of batter (?).

I see the part number for a new Garmin nüvi 670 battery is 361-00019-02-1
which differs from that of other Garmin GPS units by the capacity (1500mah
versus 1200mah for others such as the 361-00019-02, D25292-0000, etc.).

While I'm at it, I may as well look for a 2000mah replacement battery (if
some capacity is good, more must be better) ...

Once I find the biggest capacity battery, I'll attempt cracking the case to
replace it as per the reference tutorial at
http://www.malsingmaps.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=14736&sid=f9608dfee6815b67af8b0c2b68a20b72&start=10

 

[Kat Rabun]

On Mon, 29 Mar 2010 09:25:31 +0100, Arfa Daily wrote:

it came with a set of case-prising tools and a miniature Torx driver

Thanks. It looks like the two tools needed are a T4 or T5 Torx and a pry
tool as shown in use in this video for the Garmin nuvi 650 (with flip-out
antenna).

http://www.fixya.com/support/t1669746-replacing_battery_in_garmin_nuvi_650

Plus, the music reminds me of Hogans' Heroes!

 

[Holger Issle]

Hi,

On Mon, 29 Mar 2010 07:08:12 +0000 (UTC), Kat Rabun wrote:

It might be hard to find a teeny tiny T5 phillips screwdriver

I would call that a Torx, not Phillips, but you can get both here:
http://www.wihatools.com/200seri/267pico.htm (showing the Torx ones).

Remember not to take breath once they are unscrewed ;-)
--

Ciao,
Holger (GUS-KOTAL, GUS#1100, GRR#51)

90-92 Honda CB400 10 Mm | 93-95 Yamaha TDM 850 26 Mm
95-97 KTM 620 LC4 13 Mm | seit 97 BMW R1100GS 69 Mm (Die Renndrecksau!)

cu @ http://www.issle.de

 

[PeterD]

On Tue, 18 May 2010 23:34:15 -0700 (PDT), NEELU
<lsewingenterpris@rediffmail.com> wrote:

PAY PER DICK
---------------------
...

Why would anyone want to click a malware site?

 

[kreed]

On May 21, 8:03 am, Adrian Jansen <adr...@qq.vv.net> wrote:

Interesting gambit:

Get rung up by a voice with a thick accent ( you can guess the origin )
claiming that my computer is generating errors and reporting them to
M$soft.  Offers to send a technician to help fix the errors and restore
computer to "full working order".  Cannot give details about which
computer is generating the errors.  Cannot send a transcript of the
error log to me - does not know my email address.  But has my name,
street address and phone number - which anyone can get by looking in the
phone book.  Assumes my computer is running Windoze, but does not know
which version.  Suggests I run the error log report using eventwvr,
which does show a few errors and warnings, but then I know about those,
and M$soft specifically says that errors from this log are never sent to
  M$soft.

A good way of getting a bit of work and money ?

An even better way of getting entry to a house with a view to casing the
joint ?

Maybe I'm just too suspicious.

--
Regards,

Adrian Jansen           adrianjansen at internode dot on dot net
Note reply address is invalid, convert address above to machine form.

Probably not the same "scam", but interesting just the same

http://www.news.com.au/business/breaking-news/charges-over-121m-software-scam/story-e6frfkur-1225872326218