Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[Donna DeLong]

On Tue, 29 Dec 2009 08:41:20 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03 wrote:

I would guess that it's simply not something that "most who post" have
a desire for.

That's probably more logical. I was hoping someone (anyone) had an older
NuTone that they added an iPod to.

I'm pretty surprised there's nobody out there who has done this but it is
what it is so I'm stuck on my own.

I'll write it up when/if I figure out how best to add an iPod to the Nutone
home intercomm/radio/casette built-in sound system.

Thanks.

 

[Donna DeLong]

On Tue, 29 Dec 2009 22:35:01 -0500, Michael A. Terrell wrote:

I used to repair Nutone equipment, and have no desire to own anything
they sell.

I inherited the Nutone IM 4006 Intercom/Radio/Cassette when I bought a
house. I didn't put it in but it's a mid-range home (way over a million)
out here in California (where nothing is below a million or so in any
decent town) so I would have assumed the builders put in quality equipment.

Is NuTone not quality equipment? If not, what is?

 

[Michael A. Terrell]

Donna DeLong wrote:

On Tue, 29 Dec 2009 22:35:01 -0500, Michael A. Terrell wrote:

I used to repair Nutone equipment, and have no desire to own anything
they sell.

I inherited the Nutone IM 4006 Intercom/Radio/Cassette when I bought a
house. I didn't put it in but it's a mid-range home (way over a million)
out here in California (where nothing is below a million or so in any
decent town) so I would have assumed the builders put in quality equipment.

Is NuTone not quality equipment? If not, what is?

Nutone is aimed at builders. It is cheap, with a high markup. That
system would have cost the builder about $100 to $150 and added $3,000
to $5,000 to the sale price of the home.

I never saw a home intercom that was well built. I repaired a lot of
brands for a 20+ year period. They are a selling point for the
builders. I knew several builders that wouldn't use anything else,
because it was the cheapest on the wholesale market. Miami-Carey was
about the same quality, but cost about 15% more. It appears that
Miami-Carey is out of business, which is no big loss.

A lot of the work was for fire restoration contractors. The
intercoms were replaced, rather than fill a dozen holes in the walls.

The new models are all plastic. At least their earlier products were
metal which would hold up for about 15 years.

Home intercoms were built around a $15 radio with extra switches for
the intercom function.


--
Greed is the root of all eBay.

 

[George]

On 12/29/2009 23:59, Donna DeLong wrote:

On Tue, 29 Dec 2009 22:35:01 -0500, Michael A. Terrell wrote:

I used to repair Nutone equipment, and have no desire to own anything
they sell.

I inherited the Nutone IM 4006 Intercom/Radio/Cassette when I bought a
house. I didn't put it in but it's a mid-range home (way over a million)
out here in California (where nothing is below a million or so in any
decent town) so I would have assumed the builders put in quality equipment.

Is NuTone not quality equipment? If not, what is?

Nutone is a really low quality product line (picture the lowest quality
radio you can buy with a couple switches and a wall mounting frame)
designed as a cheap way for the builder to "fluff up" houses (currently
McMansions).

 

[Michael A. Terrell]

Donna DeLong wrote:

On Tue, 29 Dec 2009 08:41:20 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03 wrote:

I would guess that it's simply not something that "most who post" have
a desire for.

That's probably more logical. I was hoping someone (anyone) had an older
NuTone that they added an iPod to.

I'm pretty surprised there's nobody out there who has done this but it is
what it is so I'm stuck on my own.

I'll write it up when/if I figure out how best to add an iPod to the Nutone
home intercomm/radio/casette built-in sound system.

The intercom is mono, so you won't get stereo out of it. Look at how
the cassette deck is connected to the intercom. It should be line level
audio tha can be routed to a jack to use the cassette mode to play your
ipod. A double ended miniature audio cable that will plug into the
headphone jack, with a couple 5K resistors to mix the two channels to
mono should work.


--
Greed is the root of all eBay.

 

[Meat Plow]

On Tue, 29 Dec 2009 20:59:14 -0800, Donna DeLong
<Donna@DonnaDeLong.com>wrote:

On Tue, 29 Dec 2009 22:35:01 -0500, Michael A. Terrell wrote:

I used to repair Nutone equipment, and have no desire to own anything
they sell.

I inherited the Nutone IM 4006 Intercom/Radio/Cassette when I bought a
house. I didn't put it in but it's a mid-range home (way over a million)
out here in California (where nothing is below a million or so in any
decent town) so I would have assumed the builders put in quality equipment.

Is NuTone not quality equipment? If not, what is?

You can buy a cassette adaptor to allow you to play portable audio
devices over your car stereo. The same would work in your NT system.
You can also buy an FM transmitter that will plug into an IPod
allowing you to receive the Ipod on a vacant position on the FM dial.

 

[Donna DeLong]

On Wed, 30 Dec 2009 07:48:51 -0500, George wrote:

Nutone is really ... the lowest quality radio you can buy ...
designed as a cheap way for the builder to "fluff up" houses

I wouldn't mind replacing the NuTone IM4006 with a better quality system
that plays an iPod.

What are the better brands for home intercomm/doorbell/iPod/radio ?

 

[Joseph Donner]

On Fri, 08 Jan 2010 12:52:56 -0500, Tony wrote:

I got curious and tried the link. It looks like one hell of a big file,
it was downloading for over a minute when I got scared that it may be a
virus and stopped it.

I couldn't find a way to read the PDF schematic and nobody knew where there
was a schematic for the GTO gate opener (green) was so I had to give up on
trying to fix it after I accidentally reversed the 12v battery (you'd think
they would have protection circuitry built in for that).

So to give an update to my friends out there ... I just now ordered the
Sears Item #00977051000 Mighty Mule FM500 Model R4211 Replacement Control
Board (blue) for 322 dollars ($280 + $28 tax + $14 shipping).
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00977051000P?vName=Tools&psid=FROOGLE01&sName=Gate+Openers+&cName=GarageDoorOpeners&sid=IDx20070921x00003a

Thanks for your help. I also picked up a few more of the gadgets that go
with the gates, so it will be interesting to put it all together when it
arrives.

They say to bury the 16 gauge multi-stranded two-wire low voltage wire. I
was thinking of putting a PVC conduit in since animals chewing on the wires
started this whole mess in the first place.

Do you know what size PVC conduit & how deep to bury low-voltage wires in?

 

[RosemontCrest]

On Jan 9, 5:38 pm, Joseph Donner <josephdonne...@yahoo.com> wrote:

So to give an update to my friends out there ... I just now ordered the
Sears Item #00977051000 Mighty Mule FM500 Model R4211 Replacement Control
Board (blue) for 322 dollars ($280 + $28 tax + $14 shipping).
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00977051000P?vName=Tools&psi....

Did you notice the rebate offer on that site?

They say to bury the 16 gauge multi-stranded two-wire low voltage wire. I
was thinking of putting a PVC conduit in since animals chewing on the wires
started this whole mess in the first place.

Do you know what size PVC conduit & how deep to bury low-voltage wires in?

First, check your local codes.

If your existing wire is type UF intended for direct burial, many
jurisdictions do not allow the use of such cable within a conduit. For
use within a conduit, type TW (THWN or THHN/THWN) wire is usually
required.

The last time I checked, 1/2" PVC conduit can house up to five 12-
gauge wires or six 14-gauge wires. Larger conduit makes it easier to
pull the wires and add new ones later.

Remember to get a spool of nylon string when you get the conduit.

Good luck.

 

[who where]

On Sun, 10 Jan 2010 11:34:06 +0800, who where <noone@home.net> wrote:

I'm no stranger to Li-Ion behaviour, having studied them a fair bit
and having designed commercial chargers. I think I know what the
issue is here, but would appreciate informed comment from others.

Laptop pack, "Li-Ion 10v8 @ 4500mAh" Haven't opened it up yet, but
NiXX chemistry wouldn't achieve the capacity in that size anyway.

Charge in laptop (AC on, machine off), indicator LED goes green after
~ 3 hours. After 1/2 hour "rest", boot to Windoze on battery power,
on-screen gauge shows 100% declining to 54% after 2 hours operation.
Resume AC supply, turn machine off, battery recharges to green LED
status (not timed). Rest 1/2 hour, measure pack terminal volts =
12v51. Leave pack out of machine.

Ten hours later, measure 12v48. Alles ist gut. Insert pack into
machine (no AC) and boot. Reach desktop, then machine shuts off.
Restore AC, reboot and check on-screen gauge - "2% and charging".

Clealry the pack has usable capacity as it sustained 2 hours'
operation without drama. Clearly the pack did *not* self-discharge in
the ten hours. Right now it is "recharging", meaning going through
the motions to satisfy the electronics - while the pack is already
effectively at full SOC.

What I failed to do is measure the pack voltage *after* the premature
shutdown. Will do that on a later test.

Follow-up: After another premature shutdown (which was prefaced by a
warning message "you should shut down immediately to save your work"
or similar), the pack was removed and measure 12v52.

Possibilities that I see are:

(a) the pack protection module decided prematurely (on some basis)
that the pack was exhausted.

(b) the laptop, based on data (or lack of) from the pack's
electronics, made that call. The pack is "brand X", and the on-screen
SOC panel tags it "standard APM battery" and "Manufacturer: unknown"

Anyone seen this type of behaviour before? Comments? Ideas?

 

[mike]

who where wrote:

On Sun, 10 Jan 2010 11:34:06 +0800, who where <noone@home.net> wrote:

I'm no stranger to Li-Ion behaviour, having studied them a fair bit
and having designed commercial chargers. I think I know what the
issue is here, but would appreciate informed comment from others.

Laptop pack, "Li-Ion 10v8 @ 4500mAh" Haven't opened it up yet, but
NiXX chemistry wouldn't achieve the capacity in that size anyway.

Charge in laptop (AC on, machine off), indicator LED goes green after
~ 3 hours. After 1/2 hour "rest", boot to Windoze on battery power,
on-screen gauge shows 100% declining to 54% after 2 hours operation.
Resume AC supply, turn machine off, battery recharges to green LED
status (not timed). Rest 1/2 hour, measure pack terminal volts =
12v51. Leave pack out of machine.

Ten hours later, measure 12v48. Alles ist gut. Insert pack into
machine (no AC) and boot. Reach desktop, then machine shuts off.
Restore AC, reboot and check on-screen gauge - "2% and charging".

Clealry the pack has usable capacity as it sustained 2 hours'
operation without drama. Clearly

Clearly??? The initial conclusion from the experimental evidence
suggests the "it did".

the pack did *not* self-discharge in

the ten hours. Right now it is "recharging", meaning going through
the motions to satisfy the electronics - while the pack is already
effectively at full SOC.

What I failed to do is measure the pack voltage *after* the premature
shutdown. Will do that on a later test.

Pack voltage is mostly irrelevant. Bad voltage implies a bad pack.
Good voltage implies nothing.

Follow-up: After another premature shutdown (which was prefaced by a
warning message "you should shut down immediately to save your work"
or similar), the pack was removed and measure 12v52.

Possibilities that I see are:

(a) the pack protection module decided prematurely (on some basis)
that the pack was exhausted.

(b) the laptop, based on data (or lack of) from the pack's
electronics, made that call. The pack is "brand X", and the on-screen
SOC panel tags it "standard APM battery" and "Manufacturer: unknown"

Anyone seen this type of behaviour before? Comments? Ideas?

Battery controller IC's are not designed to optimize the life of the
battery. They're designed to limit the liability of the vendor.
They're designed to protect you from suing the vendor.
They're designed to be lowest cost.
They sell more high-margin batteries, so there's little incentive to fix it.

Lithium batteries increase in series resistance as they age.
I've taken failed packs that won't even run the computer long enough to
boot and discharged a significant portion of the capacity from them.
Problem is that the resistance is high and lapotp peak currents are high.
The voltage dips and the machine shuts off. The electrons are in there,
but the system won't let you get them out. You could set the trip
voltage lower, but then you'd overdischarge a good pack. There's
considerable opportunity to have better gas-gauge performance,
but it comes with risk of being sued. Keep it safe, no matter what
it costs the customer.

The gas gauges have varying sophistication, but measure charge in/out
and voltage on a cell basis. Some have memory that remembers the current
capacity of the
cell to more realistically represent the available run time left.
Bad news is that these can get out of sync. Some can get back in
sync, others can't. In many cases, you can replace the cells
and the chip still remembers that the pack is bad. This can be
reset, but nobody will divulge how...to protect you from hurting yourself.

One limp cell can cause the pack to be bad even though the pack voltage
seems to be ok. And a bad cell surely can self-discharge overnight.

 

[PeterD]

On Sat, 9 Jan 2010 17:38:12 -0800, Joseph Donner
<josephdonner23@yahoo.com> wrote:

On Fri, 08 Jan 2010 12:52:56 -0500, Tony wrote:

I got curious and tried the link. It looks like one hell of a big file,
it was downloading for over a minute when I got scared that it may be a
virus and stopped it.

I couldn't find a way to read the PDF schematic and nobody knew where there
was a schematic for the GTO gate opener (green) was so I had to give up on
trying to fix it after I accidentally reversed the 12v battery (you'd think
they would have protection circuitry built in for that).

So to give an update to my friends out there ... I just now ordered the
Sears Item #00977051000 Mighty Mule FM500 Model R4211 Replacement Control
Board (blue) for 322 dollars ($280 + $28 tax + $14 shipping).
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00977051000P?vName=Tools&psid=FROOGLE01&sName=Gate+Openers+&cName=GarageDoorOpeners&sid=IDx20070921x00003a

Thanks for your help. I also picked up a few more of the gadgets that go
with the gates, so it will be interesting to put it all together when it
arrives.

They say to bury the 16 gauge multi-stranded two-wire low voltage wire. I
was thinking of putting a PVC conduit in since animals chewing on the wires
started this whole mess in the first place.

Do you know what size PVC conduit & how deep to bury low-voltage wires in?

How many wires? Usually 1/2" PVC works OK. Deep: about 16 inches, if
low voltage circuit in conduit. Deeper if possible if no conduit.

 

[Jim Yanik]

PeterD <peter2@hipson.net> wrote in
news:m6qjk5pj2hr5fb9mlh6c0m0h2m791ra53d@4ax.com:

On Sat, 9 Jan 2010 17:38:12 -0800, Joseph Donner
josephdonner23@yahoo.com> wrote:

On Fri, 08 Jan 2010 12:52:56 -0500, Tony wrote:

I got curious and tried the link. It looks like one hell of a big
file, it was downloading for over a minute when I got scared that it
may be a virus and stopped it.

I couldn't find a way to read the PDF schematic and nobody knew where
there was a schematic for the GTO gate opener (green) was so I had to
give up on trying to fix it after I accidentally reversed the 12v
battery (you'd think they would have protection circuitry built in for
that).

So to give an update to my friends out there ... I just now ordered
the Sears Item #00977051000 Mighty Mule FM500 Model R4211 Replacement
Control Board (blue) for 322 dollars ($280 + $28 tax + $14 shipping).
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00977051000P?vName=Tools&psid=
FROOGLE01&sName=Gate+Openers+&cName=GarageDoorOpeners&sid=IDx20070921x0
0003a

Thanks for your help. I also picked up a few more of the gadgets that
go with the gates, so it will be interesting to put it all together
when it arrives.

They say to bury the 16 gauge multi-stranded two-wire low voltage
wire. I was thinking of putting a PVC conduit in since animals chewing
on the wires started this whole mess in the first place.

Do you know what size PVC conduit & how deep to bury low-voltage wires
in?


How many wires? Usually 1/2" PVC works OK. Deep: about 16 inches, if
low voltage circuit in conduit. Deeper if possible if no conduit.

you want to bury pipes and wiring below the frost line in your
area. Otherwise ground heave will break them.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
localnet
dot com

 

[Joseph Donner]

On Sat, 9 Jan 2010 19:36:08 -0800 (PST), RosemontCrest wrote:

Did you notice the rebate offer on that site?
Yikes. I will call them back to get the rebate! Thanks.

If your existing wire is type UF intended for direct burial, many
jurisdictions do not allow the use of such cable within a conduit. For
use within a conduit, type TW (THWN or THHN/THWN) wire is usually
required.

Interesting. I didn't realize the wire had to be different if it went
inside the conduit. Now it makes a bigger difference which way I go,
conduit or not.

Remember to get a spool of nylon string when you get the conduit.

Is this for pulling the wire through the conduit?

 

[Joseph Donner]

On Sun, 10 Jan 2010 09:49:42 -0500, PeterD wrote:

Do you know what size PVC conduit & how deep to bury low-voltage wires in?

How many wires? Usually 1/2" PVC works OK. Deep: about 16 inches, if
low voltage circuit in conduit. Deeper if possible if no conduit.

I will probably put two sets of double-stranded 16AWG wire in the conduit.
One set will be for the 18VAC power and the other set for the intercom.

16 inches seems pretty deep. I was thinking more like half that (there is
no frost here).

 

[Joseph Donner]

On Sat, 09 Jan 2010 20:58:08 -0700, Tony Hwang wrote:

For curiousity I stuck it out and downloaded whole 43 pages.
All pages are blank.

Thanks for checking. I thought it was just me. It would be nice to find a
schematic for the Mighty Mule FM500 circuit board (green).

 

[RosemontCrest]

On Jan 10, 2:00 pm, Joseph Donner <josephdonne...@yahoo.com> wrote:

On Sat, 9 Jan 2010 19:36:08 -0800 (PST), RosemontCrest wrote:

Remember to get a spool of nylon string when you get the conduit.

Is this for pulling the wire through the conduit?

Yes. When you install the conduit, you can either include the string
and wires when you glue together the conduit, or you can just include
the string. If the latter, when pulling the wires, add another length
of string to enable pulling additional wire in the future. Always keep
a length of string in the conduit.

 

[PeterD]

On Sun, 10 Jan 2010 14:00:42 -0800, Joseph Donner
<josephdonner23@yahoo.com> wrote:

On Sat, 9 Jan 2010 19:36:08 -0800 (PST), RosemontCrest wrote:


Remember to get a spool of nylon string when you get the conduit.

Is this for pulling the wire through the conduit?

Leave it in the conduit, when you pull your wires through. Then at
some point in the future when you need another wire in there (it
always happens) it is easier to pull that new wire in the conduit.

 

[PeterD]

On Sun, 10 Jan 2010 14:02:00 -0800, Joseph Donner
<josephdonner23@yahoo.com> wrote:

On Sun, 10 Jan 2010 09:49:42 -0500, PeterD wrote:

Do you know what size PVC conduit & how deep to bury low-voltage wires in?

How many wires? Usually 1/2" PVC works OK. Deep: about 16 inches, if
low voltage circuit in conduit. Deeper if possible if no conduit.

I will probably put two sets of double-stranded 16AWG wire in the conduit.
One set will be for the 18VAC power and the other set for the intercom.

16 inches seems pretty deep. I was thinking more like half that (there is
no frost here).

YOu want it below where any landscaping/gardening/maintenance is
likely to hit it. That's the 16 inches.

 

[RosemontCrest]

On Jan 11, 8:26 am, PeterD <pet...@hipson.net> wrote:

On Sun, 10 Jan 2010 14:00:42 -0800, Joseph Donner

josephdonne...@yahoo.com> wrote:
On Sat, 9 Jan 2010 19:36:08 -0800 (PST), RosemontCrest wrote:

Remember to get a spool of nylon string when you get the conduit.

Is this for pulling the wire through the conduit?

Leave it in the conduit, when you pull your wires through. Then at
some point in the future when you need another wire in there (it
always happens) it is easier to pull that new wire in the conduit.

Again, pull a new length of string when adding new wires. Always keep
a length of string in the conduit.