Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[Chuck]

On Thu, 1 Apr 2004 05:14:33 -0600, "Mark D. Zacharias"
<mzacharias@yis.us> wrote:

Then of course there is the other maintenance to make it right before it
leaves the door.

Check / align the bias on the OTHER channel, clean the controls, including
that NOTORIOUS balance control, checking FM performance if only to see that
it works nominally and can center the tuning meter, etc.

I've even had people bring back a receiver after an amp repair complaining
about the AM section!

This extra stuff takes TIME, and time is our most expensive commodity.

Additionally, shop warranties have to be accounted for. Whether people like
it or not, the warranty has to figure into the final cost.


Mark Z

Where I worked in the early 80's ( initials BB) we got similar rates
to what Mark is quoting and the dollar is worth less than half of what
it is worth then. Sounds very reasonable to me. Chuck.

 

[David]

Not talking about ANY specific console. The Atari trademark Logo.
It started out as a black and white logo. Later versions added multi colors
and a couple of extra bands.

"Jason D." <jpero@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:406a1ec9.5720016@news1.on.sympatico.ca...

On 29 Mar 2004 12:57:53 GMT, ohger1s@aol.com (John Del) wrote:

Subject: Re: 32" HDTV--needs degaussing, or worse?
From: "David" dkuhajda@locl.net.spam
Date: 3/28/2004 1:57 PM Eastern Standard Time
Message-id: <4067498a@news.greennet.net

Not on his set. Any picture tube with the ATARI pattern of color on it
has
a totally dislodged shadow mask or broken loose aperature grille.

ATARI PATTERN! A perfect description!

Which atari console we are talking about? Atari had all kinds of
consoles all the way from earilest one that is only one purpose or two
mode b/w consoles all the way to the late cartridge console.

Never had one but played on several while visiting their places years
ago when I was younger.

Cheers,

Wizard



Anyone around in the 80's in the US will know what the ATARI logo looked
like.

Thanks David, as if I didn't feel quite old enough this morning........

John

 

[Bob Parker]

Oh dear, just another worm on a newsgroup.


"anthony c zdon" <wpuukhdxpgeob@jjho.com> wrote:

Microsoft Customer

this is the latest version of security update,

 

[BWL]

At one time this was an occasional problem with new sets; the CRT would arc
every now and then, with the timing becoming longer and longer between arcs
until the tube burned in; probably caused by residual gas in CRT. If the set
continues doing this, or if frequency increases, get another set.

 

[BillHeronemus]

I just got in a newer Samsung HDTV Model TXN2668WHF with a shorted H.O.T.
After getting in Q401 p/n 0502-001230, I found that the CRT was arcing
internally (W66QDE893X200) The set showed no physical damage, and Samsung
doesn't seem to have this model listed anywhere as current, so it could be a
design flaw in the set itself. If anyone has a tube that's good or needs a
good chassis, let me know.
Bill
Don't give up.
Moses was once a basket case.

 

[Asimov]

"eraymundo" bravely wrote to "All" (02 Apr 04 18:59:07)
--- on the heady topic of "Re: Tascam Porta05 tape transport"

er> From: "eraymundo" <eraymundo@mail.ev1.net>

"Johnson" <johnsla7@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:<406b2782.53.41@news2>... I was recently given an
old Tascam Porta05. I had to replace a broken control
belt to get the Fast Fwd & Rwd to work. Sadly when I
push Play or Record the heads push forward but nothing
engages and the unit snaps back to the off position by
itself. All belts are intact and the motor and pinch
wheel are working. Any suggestions.


Press play with no tape in the unit and then grab the
takeup reel with your fingers and see if it has enough
torque to wind up the tape after the capstan pulls it. Not
sure about this machine, but a lot of tape decks will shut
down if the takeup reel isn't working properly

er> The same action I decribed initially also includes with no
er> tape in the unit. The take up reel does not move at all
er> when play is press without a tape. It immediately shuts
er> off. As I said both fast forward and rewind work great with
er> a tape in.

I'm not sure if the Porta05 are similar to the PortaStudios but I hope
the same tips apply. The PS's used 2 microswitch sensors at the back
of the cassette housing to detect the tape. Perhaps one of these is
dirty or broken. My other suggestion is to service the capstan belt.
If the capstan belt is loose the machine will FF & RW but won't PLAY.

Asimov
******

.... If all else fails, hurl it across the room a few times!

 

[MarkC]

I found out that the problem was caused by me when I replaced C4503 with
a 2,200uf cap instead of the called for 1,500uf. Some 169's use a
2,200uf but not this model.

 

[WEBPA]

"RAY J" <jfetr-NOSPAM@yahoo.ca> wrote in message
news:01d050d0d7cbp5235fugfck4ml820utc29@4ax.com...
Maybe your local library would like to have them.

On Mon, 08 Mar 2004 14:49:34 GMT, "Chris F." <zappyman@hotmail.com
wrote:

I've got a collection of some 130+ RCC (Radio College Canada)
television
books. Each book has about 10-12 complete sets of service info, including
schematics, chassis layout diagrams (and some photos), and alignment
information. The books span 1956 through 1984, though they are not a
complete set. I've tried unsuccessfully to sell them on Ebay, and
advertised
on various NG's (including this one) to give them away. Spring cleaning
is
just around the corner so time is running out - if I have not found a
home
for these within the next month or so, they WILL BE DISPOSED OF! I hate
to
throw away such a valuable resource, and I'd much rather see them find a
good home. I don't need them myself, because I've since obtained an
almost
complete set of these books. In other words, the ones I want to get rid
of
are all duplicates.
If anyone is interested, let me know. I'm located in atlantic Canada
(near
Moncton), you can pick them up here or I'd ship if you feel like paying
shipping.



I had the same trouble a few years ago with around 2000 service manuals from
loads of manufacturers...everything from Microwaves to Personal Stereos. I
eventually gave them away to another tech, who kept a choice few of them and
tossed the rest in the bin. I was so disappointed to see that years and
years of irreplaceble information was lost forever. Ahh well...

regards
Alastair










Subject: Re: Thousands of Free TV Schematics
Path:
lobby!ngtf-m01.news.aol.com!ngpeer.news.aol.com!feed2.newsreader.com!news
reader.com!newsfeed.media.kyoto-u.ac.jp!newsfeed.icl.net!proxad.net!proxad

..net!62.253.162.219.MISMATCH!newsrout1.ntli.net!news.ntli.net!newspeer1-wi
n.server.ntli.net!newsfe1-w

in.POSTED!53ab2750!not-for-mail
From: "Alastair McGloan" jukeboxwizard@yahoo.com
Newsgroups: sci.electronics.repair
References: <2K%2c.112249$IF6.3570002@ursa-nb00s0.nbnet.nb.ca
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Message-ID: <aft8c.4$Gc2.2@newsfe1-win
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2004 04:29:12 -0000
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NNTP-Posting-Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2004 04:29:58 GMT
Organization: NTL

Did any of you ever consider calling a local or regional library? Or college
or technical highschool? Or vocational school. Most will accept such materials
with raptureous glee.

How about scanning the material (retirement project?) and surreptitously
posting it somewhere (*.RU?, *.CZ, etc.)


webpa

 

[Jerry G.]

You may have missed the cold solder connection. By working with it, you may
have flexed the board a little, thus making it have contact. Or, it is
possible that there is a component on the board that is thermo sensitive.
When soldering on the board, you heated the part(s), thus causing it to
work. When it cooled back down, it went out of specs.

A part that goes defective often on many remotes is the crystal. If the
remote uses a common type, it should be available from most suppliers. It is
usually referred to as a remote control crystal. It is normally a series
resonant 455 kHz crystal (if I remember right).

As for most of the parts in the remote, they are proprietary, and cannot be
purchased other than from the original manufacture, if they even sell them.
Normally the remote is replaced as a full replacement module or part. The
only parts you can replace from the general suppliers are any of the
standard generic types, such as maybe the driver transistors for the IR LED
(sometimes), the IR LED, and some of the common type caps and resistors.

--

Greetings,

Jerry Greenberg GLG Technologies GLG
=========================================
WebPage http://www.zoom-one.com
Electronics http://www.zoom-one.com/electron.htm
=========================================


"JD" <ˇ@hotmail.com> wrote in message news:40722c1b_2@news.cybersurf.net...
I have a norcent remote from dvd model dp300
soldered a few times works for 10 minutes to an hour than dead
anyone know the problem?

 

[LASERandDVDfan]

The CRT didnt yark at all when I shorted it. I used the resistor as
suggested and wore protective gear.

That's good. The CRT holds a big charge, but doesn't hold it for a very long
time.

However, it's always a good idea to assume it's charged anyways and take
appropriate measures to discharge it.

Thank you

You're welcome. - Reinhart

 

[Tom MacIntyre]

On 7 Apr 2004 16:06:25 -0700, moeee@telpacific.com.au (mo) wrote:

"Mark D. Zacharias" <mzacharias@yis.us> wrote in message news:<c50l5n$2mcjhp$1@ID-180484.news.uni-berlin.de>...
I don't think you've managed to make your case, only express an opinion,
with absolutely no evidence to back it up.

Mark Z.


What is morally right to one person is just an opinion I suppose.
Maybe time to tie a knot in this thread on this topic on this newsgroup.

- Mo -

That isn't the choice of one individual, at least not in an
unmoderated newsgroup.

Tom

 

[Tom MacIntyre]

On Wed, 31 Mar 2004 00:37:51 GMT, "Bill" <fusebhub@ver.net> wrote:

Why not just stick a HV probe under the anode cup and wait for it to drain?
Saves "flaking" the inside of the tube. Bill

That's the way I always did it.

Tom

 

[Alex Butcher]

On Sat, 03 Apr 2004 19:52:24 +0100, Stevie Boy wrote:

I've got a VCR that I suspect needs about 10 capacitors (i.e. about a
fiver's worth of parts) replacing in the power supply. Maplin don't
sell all the parts I need, RS have minimum order quantities of 5+ on
each part (meaning I need to buy about 50 just to get the 10 I need),
and local repair shops are quoting 25-45GBP for a repair (as I guessed
they might).


What capacitors are you after? I may be able to help got loads (well a
fair amount) hanging around.

Thanks for the kind offer.

Unfortunately, or perhaps I should say - fortunately - I have no need as
my VCR is now working again.

The stuff I found about the Ferguson FV 105 HV (Thomson R5000 chassis) was
entirely correct; if it dies spontaneously (mine had a quiet 'ticking'
sound as the PSU tried to start up), then the 10 electrolytic capacitors
in the PSU module need replacing.

Despite Maplin not being able to supply exact matches, by substituting
higher-voltage-rated capacitors, I was able to get it working with about
2.50GBP worth of parts and an hour to remove and replace the capacitors.

<http://www.e-repair.co.uk/faults/TN116531.HTM> and
<http://www.hamradio-badarc.co.uk/television/yourtvfaults.htm> put me onto
the solution to the problem.

From e-repair:

"Power unit blown up / there is a repair kit available (35065920) it
consists of the following CP007 (10uF,50v), CP008 (100uF,25v), CP041
(220uF,10v), CP071 (47uF,50v), CP081-82 (1000uF,16v), CP082 (470uF,25v),
DP095 (BYW100), FP001 (1AT), IP001 (U4614B), RP018 (1.5,0.25w), RP021
(2.2K,0.3w), RP091 (0.47ohm), TP001 (BUL310X1), TP091 (2SA1020Y) (Barry -
Telefix)"

and from hamradio:

"MAKE: Thomson, Telefunken, Saba, Nordmende MODEL: VCRs with R3000, R4000,
R5000 chassis DESCRIPTION OF FAULT: Dead. REMEDY: Replace every
electrolytic cap in the power supply (in these VCRs, the power supply is
separated from the main PCB, it's in a shielded "metal box") except for
the "mains" capacitor (150ľ/385V or something along that line). If you
skip a capacitor chances are the VCR will come in with the same complaint
a couple of days later."

PSU Component Maplin Code uF V Temp

CP002 JL18 47 450
CP007 VH22 10 50
CP008 VH37 100 25
CP081 VH50 1000 16 105C
CP082 VH50 1000 16 105C
CP092 VH51 1000 25 105C
CP093 VH33 47 50
CP071 VH33 47 50
CP061 VH42 220 35 105C
CP051 VH03 1 63

IMPORTANT NOTE to anyone inexperienced with dealing with mains PSUs -
there are DANGEROUSLY high voltages present, and the capacitors can hold
the charge for some time (I was told hours, but I left mine unplugged for
several days before starting work on it).

A photo and PCB layout can be found at:
<http://www.bpt31.com/PlancheErdiba/PowerPCB%2020360420-SD.JPG>
<http://www.bpt31.com/PlancheErdiba/PowerPCB%2020360420-00.JPG>

Steve

Best Regards,
Alex (happy at avoiding sending a nice VCR to landfill).
--
Alex Butcher Brainbench MVP for Internet Security: www.brainbench.com
Bristol, UK Need reliable and secure network systems?
PGP/GnuPG ID:0x271fd950 <http://www.assursys.com/>

 

[mepe]

">

I've got a VCR that I suspect needs about 10 capacitors (i.e. about a
fiver's worth of parts) replacing in the power supply. Maplin don't
sell all the parts I need, RS have minimum order quantities of 5+ on
each part (meaning I need to buy about 50 just to get the 10 I need),
and local repair shops are quoting 25-45GBP for a repair (as I guessed
they might).

try www.cpc.co.uk

or www.seme.co.uk

 

[Doug Goncz]

The high-low-off inline switches arrived yesterday morning and I picked them up
yesterday afternoon. They rotate only one way. I don't know yet if it's
high-low-off or off-low-high.

I was going to install them facing opposite ways with the hot lead in the
splice on each but then you'd have to rotate one forward and one to the rear.
So I'll splice one into the hot lead and the other one into the neutral lead of
the other lamp, facing the same way, so the user interface is consistent. That
way, the diode will be reversed in one lead, and when both lamps are low, they
will alternate on half cycles, producing very near the illumination of a single
lamp, firing on two cycles.

I have prepared

file:\\Program Files\Winmcad\Projects\Bicycle\Electric\Inverter-Generator.mcd

which explores the roughly 50% efficiency from mechanical drive input through
generated EMF and armature resistance to inverter with idle current and losses
to load. The lumens per watt may be marked on the package for the next step.

I believe this system will work with non-dimmable CCFL lamps also, providing a
much larger range of system capacities by changing bulbs.

I found the bezel ring for one of the desk lamp shells and it supports the R30
reflector for the 20 W lamp nicely. No more rattle.

Now where is that other bezel ring? I think it's on a lamp at Teri's.

I went to the store to order the inline dimmers and came back with a shade for
my reading lamp. I put a 12 inch disc of sheet metal on my rack and a 1/4 inch
slab of wood under, tapped 1/4-20 for a long screw. With a washer holding the
shade mounting ring down on the disc, I made the trip without aerodynamic
problems, even though I dismounted to remove a sweater on a windy day. I
figured the bike would blow over but it didn't. When I dismounted, I kicked the
shade, putting two small, visible creases in the material. They don't show when
installed with the seam to the rear right.

Nice lamp, too. Pulled it out of the trash. Copper patina paint on scrolled
iron. Should have bought a more parchment like shade. Whatever. 200W bulb right
over the chair.

Nobody makes bottom turn end mount sockets with dimmer diodes. Anybody want to
introduce a new product to market? I checked the catalogs at the lighting store
and they are just not out there.

You can now buy a CCFL lamp with 150 W incandescent output. I think it's 23 W,
or maybe it was 37.




Yours,

Doug Goncz ( ftp://users.aol.com/DGoncz/ )

My physics project at NVCC:
http://groups.google.com/groups?q=dgoncz&scoring=d plus
"bicycle", "fluorescent", "inverter", "flywheel", "ultracapacitor", etc.
in the search box

 

[Alex Butcher]

On Wed, 14 Apr 2004 01:39:20 +0100, mepe wrote:

"

I've got a VCR that I suspect needs about 10 capacitors (i.e. about a
fiver's worth of parts) replacing in the power supply. Maplin don't
sell all the parts I need, RS have minimum order quantities of 5+ on
each part (meaning I need to buy about 50 just to get the 10 I need),
and local repair shops are quoting 25-45GBP for a repair (as I guessed
they might).

try www.cpc.co.uk
or www.seme.co.uk

Duly bookmarked for next time. Thanks!

Alex.
--
Alex Butcher Brainbench MVP for Internet Security: www.brainbench.com
Bristol, UK Need reliable and secure network systems?
PGP/GnuPG ID:0x271fd950 <http://www.assursys.com/>

 

[WEBPA]

Peter Aberrant <someone@zxy.com> wrote
in message news:4083f93d@clear.net.nz...

Phonetic Alphabet Tables

Useful for spelling words and names over the phone.
cut out the table containing phonetic alphabet (below),
and tape it to the side of your phone when you are on
the telephone it could be some help.

Dont need to, its permanently embedded in my head.

and post it to your electronic email groups

No thanks.

I was inspired to post this page and post it online when
I overheard a co-worker say "L, as in Log" over the phone.

The phonetic table was designed to work when the comms
channel is awful. That isnt true with modern phone calls.

The non official approach works fine.

normally one would not say V as in victor P as in
Papa, G as in Golf but Victor Papa, Golf for VPG

The official table does work suprisingly well even
with recipients who have never even heard of it.

As it should. It is about the 5th iteration of the "Marconi" (IIRC) table from

the early 1920s. A NATO committee put quite a bit of effort into the current
table in the (? mid-1950s) to produce a set usable in all major alliance
languagues (even French).
It is specifically designed to avoid ambiguous start-mid-end sounds in words
like "log"....dog? hog? bog? lag? gag? ... USW.

If you've never needed to "spell it out" on a cellphone, then you don't use a
cellphone much (on any continent).
webpa

 

[Jeff]

Still, I am always amazed at the amateur operators that go to the
trouble of learning the phonetic alphabet to pass the test, only to
toss it all away afterward and use their own version. Just hearing
the different versions on air can get rather annoying!!!

Just remember that a lot of these phonetics that annoy you *were the
standard ones* when the operator got their licence!!!

2 Emma Toc

This doesn't apply to M3's of course (;-)

Jeff

 

[Jeff]

N Co

I am not a radio amateur but I did learn the phonetic alphabet
because I was forever relaying model numbers etc via phone.
I did at one time regularly listen to GB2RS ,IIRC ,sunday mornings
and every week I would find it annoying ,
or at least dstracting, hearing S- for Sugar etc

But equally if you had learnt and used your phonetics in the
Army the up to the '50s you may well find that Sierra is just
as annoying in place of Sugar!!!

Jeff

 

[Dbowey]

<< >Pray tell me what "S" is then Jock. Class A+++

Errrr .... dididahdit ?

Then tell me what Didit Dahdah Didit is.

S = ...

dididahdit = F (..-.)

Didit Dahdah Didit = If it is space as you show, it is IMI. If it is run
together, it a question: ..--.. = ?

Don