D
Dbowey
Guest
zpk posted: just crap, all caps.....
Please learn to use the Caps Lock/unlock key.
Please learn to use the Caps Lock/unlock key.
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Dbowey
Guest
Would that be an iMac, eMac, a laptop, or a tower?
Would be best if he would just shove an OSX system disk there.
Would be best if he would just shove an OSX system disk there.
Z
Z
Guest
In article <pan.2004.04.13.18.50.08.246777@assursys.co.uk>, Alex Butcher
<alex.butcher.news0404@assursys.co.uk> writes
service manual from before and there it was, an advert for Mauritron on
this site.
--
Z
Remove all Zeds in e-mail address to reply.
<alex.butcher.news0404@assursys.co.uk> writes
Thank for the links, I couldn't remember the name of a firm I got ahttp://www.hamradio-badarc.co.uk/television/yourtvfaults.htm> put me onto
the solution to the problem.
service manual from before and there it was, an advert for Mauritron on
this site.
--
Z
Remove all Zeds in e-mail address to reply.
L
Licensed to Quill
Guest
LICENSED TO QUILL WROTE:
I sometimes wonder why GE doesnt bother with proper filters in their
dishwashers as all these problems seem to be casued by something which
should have been caught in a filter while the cycle is running finding its
way into an area where it can cause damage. Like an impeller in a drain pump
or an exit hose of some type. And their policies on repair costs are
prohibitive at the moment.
Living in New York has its upsides and downsides. The downside is that no
one really wants to come out to repair anything without ripping you off
(yes, it'll cost $90 call out charge and then 45.5 cents per minute plus any
parts we can find we need plus the call out charge again when we see that we
forgot to bring the part you told us was most likely in need of replacement
plus tax etc plus the furtther per-minute charge to take it apart again etc
etc) while on the upside there are always LOTS of people who are replacing
whole kitchens with perfectly serviceable units in them from which one can
take the dishwasher). I suppose if I cant repair this one I will replace it
with the next Miele or possibly Bosch I FIND.
I do find it slightly suspicious that GE dishwwashers work properly for a
while, then diminish in effectiveness after a year or so, then stop working
completely. When I managed to call out aservice agent under warranty, he
said that in places like New York with slightly dirty water, the drain hose
becomes blocked every time anyone does work on pipes in the neighborhood and
anything flushes into the water line in any way. Isnt that just a sign that
they KNOW that they need a proper filter?
"Julie" <me@privacy.net> wrote in message
news:2gcugkF1ft00U1@uni-berlin.de>...
"Mary Shafer" <miliff@qnet.com> wrote in message
news:rq43a05an2agd035crc29t1hrme614rnck@4ax.com...
my GE profile GSD 5930 dishwasher. It works properly
but doesn't drain either properly or completely. RESULT the dishes are
always cleaned with somewhat dirty water and the unit is left with a full
tub
I have called GE in the past and they told me to push the ON switch, wait 5
seconds and push that same ON switch again. They say this will drain the
unit without putting any more water in it
I have been doing this for about four years when occasionally the unit
doesnt drain but suddenly this tactic has stopped working. GE just tells me
to call out a repairman (TRANSLATION: Pay us more than the unit is worth to
repair it) I am a bit reluctant.
Does anyone know how to get this unit to drain please or do I have to undo
all the screws in the back, laboriously take the basket off and laboriously
try to clean all gunge out of the place where GE didnt bother to put a
filter? (I should add that I Have TRIED not putting anything in which would
clog up that basket so I suspect that isnt the problem)
I sometimes wonder why GE doesnt bother with proper filters in their
dishwashers as all these problems seem to be casued by something which
should have been caught in a filter while the cycle is running finding its
way into an area where it can cause damage. Like an impeller in a drain pump
or an exit hose of some type. And their policies on repair costs are
prohibitive at the moment.
Living in New York has its upsides and downsides. The downside is that no
one really wants to come out to repair anything without ripping you off
(yes, it'll cost $90 call out charge and then 45.5 cents per minute plus any
parts we can find we need plus the call out charge again when we see that we
forgot to bring the part you told us was most likely in need of replacement
plus tax etc plus the furtther per-minute charge to take it apart again etc
etc) while on the upside there are always LOTS of people who are replacing
whole kitchens with perfectly serviceable units in them from which one can
take the dishwasher). I suppose if I cant repair this one I will replace it
with the next Miele or possibly Bosch I FIND.
I do find it slightly suspicious that GE dishwwashers work properly for a
while, then diminish in effectiveness after a year or so, then stop working
completely. When I managed to call out aservice agent under warranty, he
said that in places like New York with slightly dirty water, the drain hose
becomes blocked every time anyone does work on pipes in the neighborhood and
anything flushes into the water line in any way. Isnt that just a sign that
they KNOW that they need a proper filter?
"Julie" <me@privacy.net> wrote in message
news:2gcugkF1ft00U1@uni-berlin.de>...
Yes, I have the same problem with my profile dishwasher. It works
properly but doesn't drain either properly or completely.
I took the dishwasher out to the porch and had my way with it.
Unscrewed anything I could find, poked around, and found two things -
one small (1 cm) shard of glass, and one small piece of paper towel
across a tube connection. The piece of paper towel was potentially
blocking a waterway, so I had hope yet that I might have made a
difference.
"Mary Shafer" <miliff@qnet.com> wrote in message
news:rq43a05an2agd035crc29t1hrme614rnck@4ax.com...
On Tue, 11 May 2004 14:21:15 -0700, "Julie" <me@privacy.net> wrote:
and like a stoopid consumer, the new one is another GE Profile. It had
a good rebate on it and promised to be Quiet, which it is. But now I'll
have to cross my fingers on the draining issue ...
I too have a brand new GE dishwasher, although mine is a Triton. This
is the first really quiet dishwasher I've ever owned and I just love
it. We have tile floors, so the house is a bit echo-y and sound
really travels, but we can hardly tell that the dishwasher is running.
I'm now ready for the 15-year-old dishwasher in my other house to
break, because I've been spoiled now and dislike the noise this old
dishwasher makes.
My double oven unit is a GE Profile, by the way, and seems to work
very well, but we've only been in the house for a month, so it's early
days yet. The builder, Del Webb/Pulte, has some sort of sweetheart
deal with GE, so my choices were limited.
Mary
--
Mary Shafer Retired aerospace research engineer
miliff@qnet.com
C
Chuck
Guest
"Licensed to Quill" <vintagepen@compuserve.nospam.com> wrote in message
news:c7t9fo$l01$1@ngspool-d02.news.aol.com...
can put enough back pressure on the pump that it is unable to fully drain
the dishwasher during the cycle time.
--Chuck
news:c7t9fo$l01$1@ngspool-d02.news.aol.com...
Check the drain hose, and the vacuum breaker for partial blockage. ThisLICENSED TO QUILL WROTE:
my GE profile GSD 5930 dishwasher. It works properly
but doesn't drain either properly or completely. RESULT the dishes are
always cleaned with somewhat dirty water and the unit is left with a full
tub
can put enough back pressure on the pump that it is unable to fully drain
the dishwasher during the cycle time.
--Chuck
B
Bennett Price
Guest
If you've got an anti-siphon device mounted on the sink, make sure it is
clean. If blocked it will stop draining.
Licensed to Quill wrote:
clean. If blocked it will stop draining.
Licensed to Quill wrote:
LICENSED TO QUILL WROTE:
my GE profile GSD 5930 dishwasher. It works properly
but doesn't drain either properly or completely. RESULT the dishes are
always cleaned with somewhat dirty water and the unit is left with a full
tub
I have called GE in the past and they told me to push the ON switch, wait 5
seconds and push that same ON switch again. They say this will drain the
unit without putting any more water in it
I have been doing this for about four years when occasionally the unit
doesnt drain but suddenly this tactic has stopped working. GE just tells me
to call out a repairman (TRANSLATION: Pay us more than the unit is worth to
repair it) I am a bit reluctant.
Does anyone know how to get this unit to drain please or do I have to undo
all the screws in the back, laboriously take the basket off and laboriously
try to clean all gunge out of the place where GE didnt bother to put a
filter? (I should add that I Have TRIED not putting anything in which would
clog up that basket so I suspect that isnt the problem)
I sometimes wonder why GE doesnt bother with proper filters in their
dishwashers as all these problems seem to be casued by something which
should have been caught in a filter while the cycle is running finding its
way into an area where it can cause damage. Like an impeller in a drain pump
or an exit hose of some type. And their policies on repair costs are
prohibitive at the moment.
Living in New York has its upsides and downsides. The downside is that no
one really wants to come out to repair anything without ripping you off
(yes, it'll cost $90 call out charge and then 45.5 cents per minute plus any
parts we can find we need plus the call out charge again when we see that we
forgot to bring the part you told us was most likely in need of replacement
plus tax etc plus the furtther per-minute charge to take it apart again etc
etc) while on the upside there are always LOTS of people who are replacing
whole kitchens with perfectly serviceable units in them from which one can
take the dishwasher). I suppose if I cant repair this one I will replace it
with the next Miele or possibly Bosch I FIND.
I do find it slightly suspicious that GE dishwwashers work properly for a
while, then diminish in effectiveness after a year or so, then stop working
completely. When I managed to call out aservice agent under warranty, he
said that in places like New York with slightly dirty water, the drain hose
becomes blocked every time anyone does work on pipes in the neighborhood and
anything flushes into the water line in any way. Isnt that just a sign that
they KNOW that they need a proper filter?
"Julie" <me@privacy.net> wrote in message
news:2gcugkF1ft00U1@uni-berlin.de>...
Yes, I have the same problem with my profile dishwasher. It works
properly but doesn't drain either properly or completely.
I took the dishwasher out to the porch and had my way with it.
Unscrewed anything I could find, poked around, and found two things -
one small (1 cm) shard of glass, and one small piece of paper towel
across a tube connection. The piece of paper towel was potentially
blocking a waterway, so I had hope yet that I might have made a
difference.
"Mary Shafer" <miliff@qnet.com> wrote in message
news:rq43a05an2agd035crc29t1hrme614rnck@4ax.com...
On Tue, 11 May 2004 14:21:15 -0700, "Julie" <me@privacy.net> wrote:
and like a stoopid consumer, the new one is another GE Profile. It had
a good rebate on it and promised to be Quiet, which it is. But now I'll
have to cross my fingers on the draining issue ...
I too have a brand new GE dishwasher, although mine is a Triton. This
is the first really quiet dishwasher I've ever owned and I just love
it. We have tile floors, so the house is a bit echo-y and sound
really travels, but we can hardly tell that the dishwasher is running.
I'm now ready for the 15-year-old dishwasher in my other house to
break, because I've been spoiled now and dislike the noise this old
dishwasher makes.
My double oven unit is a GE Profile, by the way, and seems to work
very well, but we've only been in the house for a month, so it's early
days yet. The builder, Del Webb/Pulte, has some sort of sweetheart
deal with GE, so my choices were limited.
Mary
--
Mary Shafer Retired aerospace research engineer
miliff@qnet.com
L
Licensed to Quill
Guest
Yes, it's pretty definitely the same problem I have been having for four
years, only worse: Despite that impeller NOT being blocked, something has
got through and is preventing the drain from draining properly. Not sure
what a vacuum breaker is but I should probably take the lower front panel
off and get the drain hose off. This isn't easy, is it?
BTW the washing machine drains through to the same place under the sink and
yesteday it stopped draining as well so it must be a MAJOR blockage in the
drain hose or (a kink suddenly appearing at) the place where it drains into
the central drain under the sink?
Licensed to Quill
"Chuck" <mcgregorc@yahoodelete.com> wrote in message
news:yHqoc.77881$kh4.4479691@attbi_s52...
years, only worse: Despite that impeller NOT being blocked, something has
got through and is preventing the drain from draining properly. Not sure
what a vacuum breaker is but I should probably take the lower front panel
off and get the drain hose off. This isn't easy, is it?
BTW the washing machine drains through to the same place under the sink and
yesteday it stopped draining as well so it must be a MAJOR blockage in the
drain hose or (a kink suddenly appearing at) the place where it drains into
the central drain under the sink?
Licensed to Quill
"Chuck" <mcgregorc@yahoodelete.com> wrote in message
news:yHqoc.77881$kh4.4479691@attbi_s52...
"Licensed to Quill" <vintagepen@compuserve.nospam.com> wrote in message
news:c7t9fo$l01$1@ngspool-d02.news.aol.com...
LICENSED TO QUILL WROTE:
my GE profile GSD 5930 dishwasher. It works properly
but doesn't drain either properly or completely. RESULT the dishes are
always cleaned with somewhat dirty water and the unit is left with a
full
tub
Check the drain hose, and the vacuum breaker for partial blockage. This
can put enough back pressure on the pump that it is unable to fully drain
the dishwasher during the cycle time.
--Chuck
M
Malcolm Blackard
Guest
"John Clayton" <t2charterREMOVE4SPAM@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:npLrc.19$EZ2.43141@news.uswest.net...
to base 5 volts, typical hFE 400 min., power dissipation 50 watts. This
would probably replace the EP15X127, but it does have an internal damper
diode. If the one in the GE does not have an internal damper, there will be
an external one, from collector to ground or to emitter. Just remove that
one if you use the NTE89.
news:npLrc.19$EZ2.43141@news.uswest.net...
amps, collector to base volts 1500, collector to emitter 600 volts,emitterThis TV came with a set of mini-manual schematics.
I troubleshot a +130 V problem to the horizontal output transister.
Flameproof resisters R1706 & R1707 kept frying. When Q1702 was removed
from
the circuit, everything was fine and the 130v fuse would not blow anymore.
My problem is that the Horiz. Output xsister has "Japan 1881" stamped on
it.
The parts list shows a GE part number but I can not get that anymore.
Their
part number (EP15X127) does not cross to an NTE number.
It is Japanese, so I figured the real number must be 2SD1881, sine it is
an
AF application transister and NPN.
2SD1881 does cross to an NTE2353 and the NTE device is a Horizontal output
transister. it Collector-emitter voltage is rated at 1500volts which is
the
same rating as the capacitor (C1702) that is in parallel with c-e of
Q1702.
However, the NTE device has an internal damping diode that does not show
up
on the schematic (they may have just not shown it, I know) and it is the
wrong case style of the transister I am replacing. I forget case style
naming conventions but the faulty transister is a teardrop shape with only
the emitter and base leads protruding from the bottom, the case being the
collector and has a flat mica insulator between it and the chassis of the
TV/circuit board.
My question, How can I be sure that, even if I can find an NTE device with
the correct case style and specs, that I need the internal diode or not?
Also, from searching on the internet, it seems that a 2SD1881 is a very
common transister for this application. Does anyone know of a part number
I
can readily find that is a suitable substitute and the same case style as
I
have now?
I suppose I can use the NTE2353 in it's case style configuration, but to
ensure proper heat dissipation it would require a bit of modification and
I
am concerned about high-voltage arcing.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Here is the schematic:
That transistor is a T03 case style. There is one NTE,
NTE89 which is a T03 horizontal output transistor, max. collector curent 6
to base 5 volts, typical hFE 400 min., power dissipation 50 watts. This
would probably replace the EP15X127, but it does have an internal damper
diode. If the one in the GE does not have an internal damper, there will be
an external one, from collector to ground or to emitter. Just remove that
one if you use the NTE89.
A
Asimov
Guest
"Malcolm Blackard" bravely wrote to "All" (24 May 04 15:58:45)
--- on the heady topic of "Re: GE 40PW3000K TV Horiz. Output xsister question"
MB> From: "Malcolm Blackard" <oldfogie@bellsouth.net>
MB> "John Clayton" <t2charterREMOVE4SPAM@hotmail.com> wrote in message
MB> news:npLrc.19$EZ2.43141@news.uswest.net...
MB> volts,emitter to base 5 volts, typical hFE 400 min., power dissipation
MB> 50 watts. This would probably replace the EP15X127, but it does have an
MB> internal damper diode. If the one in the GE does not have an internal
MB> damper, there will be an external one, from collector to ground or to
MB> emitter. Just remove that one if you use the NTE89.
It usually doesn't matter if there are 2 damper diodes in parallel.
The main difference is if there exists a Ferrite Bead in the emitter
leg. For a transistor without diode this means the FB will stop RFI
from the transistor only. However the external diode will often have
its own. For a transistor with a diode the FB will stop RFI from both.
However, an exception is if the external damper is used to generate a
deflection circuit offset. In this less common case an internal damper
will definitely cause a problem by disabling this function.
Asimov
******
.... Of course it's grounded! ...watch, ...YEEEEEAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHH!!!!
--- on the heady topic of "Re: GE 40PW3000K TV Horiz. Output xsister question"
MB> From: "Malcolm Blackard" <oldfogie@bellsouth.net>
MB> "John Clayton" <t2charterREMOVE4SPAM@hotmail.com> wrote in message
MB> news:npLrc.19$EZ2.43141@news.uswest.net...
MB> curent 6 amps, collector to base volts 1500, collector to emitter 600This TV came with a set of mini-manual schematics.
I troubleshot a +130 V problem to the horizontal output transister.
Flameproof resisters R1706 & R1707 kept frying. When Q1702 was removed
from
the circuit, everything was fine and the 130v fuse would not blow anymore.
My problem is that the Horiz. Output xsister has "Japan 1881" stamped on
it.
The parts list shows a GE part number but I can not get that anymore.
MB> Their
part number (EP15X127) does not cross to an NTE number.
It is Japanese, so I figured the real number must be 2SD1881, sine it is
an
AF application transister and NPN.
2SD1881 does cross to an NTE2353 and the NTE device is a Horizontal output
transister. it Collector-emitter voltage is rated at 1500volts which is
the
same rating as the capacitor (C1702) that is in parallel with c-e of
MB> Q1702.
However, the NTE device has an internal damping diode that does not show
up
on the schematic (they may have just not shown it, I know) and it is the
wrong case style of the transister I am replacing. I forget case style
naming conventions but the faulty transister is a teardrop shape with only
the emitter and base leads protruding from the bottom, the case being the
collector and has a flat mica insulator between it and the chassis of the
TV/circuit board.
My question, How can I be sure that, even if I can find an NTE device with
the correct case style and specs, that I need the internal diode or not?
Also, from searching on the internet, it seems that a 2SD1881 is a very
common transister for this application. Does anyone know of a part number
I
can readily find that is a suitable substitute and the same case style as
I
have now?
I suppose I can use the NTE2353 in it's case style configuration, but to
ensure proper heat dissipation it would require a bit of modification and
I
am concerned about high-voltage arcing.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Here is the schematic:
That transistor is a T03 case style. There is one NTE,
MB> NTE89 which is a T03 horizontal output transistor, max. collector
MB> volts,emitter to base 5 volts, typical hFE 400 min., power dissipation
MB> 50 watts. This would probably replace the EP15X127, but it does have an
MB> internal damper diode. If the one in the GE does not have an internal
MB> damper, there will be an external one, from collector to ground or to
MB> emitter. Just remove that one if you use the NTE89.
It usually doesn't matter if there are 2 damper diodes in parallel.
The main difference is if there exists a Ferrite Bead in the emitter
leg. For a transistor without diode this means the FB will stop RFI
from the transistor only. However the external diode will often have
its own. For a transistor with a diode the FB will stop RFI from both.
However, an exception is if the external damper is used to generate a
deflection circuit offset. In this less common case an internal damper
will definitely cause a problem by disabling this function.
Asimov
******
.... Of course it's grounded! ...watch, ...YEEEEEAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHH!!!!
M
maxfoo
Guest
On Mon, 24 May 2004 23:13:31 -0400, "Frederic Elias" <haha@boulegrise.com>
wrote:
playing dvds. the motor doesn't spin anymore...what a POS.
Remove "HeadFromButt", before replying by email.
wrote:
I have that model sony dvp-ns315, was working fine for a year, then it quitDo you have any of the closed caption options active on your TV?
i turned the closed caption options off, and now the big black rectangle is
gone. thanks for the hint!!!!
playing dvds. the motor doesn't spin anymore...what a POS.
Remove "HeadFromButt", before replying by email.
P
Paul Hirose
Guest
KLP wrote:
Didn't you try a search engine? I got many hits with "SCR-625". For
example, several Web sites say the U.S. Army manual for your mine
detector is TM 11-4016.
I saw one guy who has a photocopy of that manual for sale.
Unfortunately, his Web site says that after the Sept. 11 attacks he
stopped shipping to foreign countries. Maybe if you ask very politely
if he will sell to overseas customers again someday, and tell him
about your mine detector, you might get a manual from him.
There was another Web site selling an original manual (not a copy)
but it was much more expensive.
I also saw someone selling a complete SCR-625 in good condition for
$90.
There was one on eBay too, I think.
I'm crossposting this to a few other newsgroups.
--
Paul Hirose <ewwb4-khh25@earINVALIDthlink.net>
To reply by email delete INVALID from address.
I have obtained an old US mine detector type SRC-625-C (from 1944+) in very
bad condition and am looking for technical literature about it. I hope to
get it up and running again, as I am an electronic engineer myself (Royal
Danish Airforce).
Any information (operational and technical) about this type of detector is
welcome, including adresses and links to relevant sites.
Didn't you try a search engine? I got many hits with "SCR-625". For
example, several Web sites say the U.S. Army manual for your mine
detector is TM 11-4016.
I saw one guy who has a photocopy of that manual for sale.
Unfortunately, his Web site says that after the Sept. 11 attacks he
stopped shipping to foreign countries. Maybe if you ask very politely
if he will sell to overseas customers again someday, and tell him
about your mine detector, you might get a manual from him.
There was another Web site selling an original manual (not a copy)
but it was much more expensive.
I also saw someone selling a complete SCR-625 in good condition for
$90.
There was one on eBay too, I think.
I'm crossposting this to a few other newsgroups.
--
Paul Hirose <ewwb4-khh25@earINVALIDthlink.net>
To reply by email delete INVALID from address.
K
KLP
Guest
Thanks for the information.
I did a search but might have misspelede something. I did find the guy with
the photocopy for sale but did not want to seem impolite asking him to
cancell his policy of not selling to foreign countries, if I could find a
manual elseware.
I emailed a french website and he might have a manual for me, I was told
yesterday.
Best regards
Kasper
"Paul Hirose" <ewwb4-khh25@earINVALIDthlink.net> skrev i en meddelelse
news:40C0C3E5.680757F7@earINVALIDthlink.net...
I did a search but might have misspelede something. I did find the guy with
the photocopy for sale but did not want to seem impolite asking him to
cancell his policy of not selling to foreign countries, if I could find a
manual elseware.
I emailed a french website and he might have a manual for me, I was told
yesterday.
Best regards
Kasper
"Paul Hirose" <ewwb4-khh25@earINVALIDthlink.net> skrev i en meddelelse
news:40C0C3E5.680757F7@earINVALIDthlink.net...
KLP wrote:
I have obtained an old US mine detector type SRC-625-C (from 1944+) in
very
bad condition and am looking for technical literature about it. I hope
to
get it up and running again, as I am an electronic engineer myself
(Royal
Danish Airforce).
Any information (operational and technical) about this type of detector
is
welcome, including adresses and links to relevant sites.
Didn't you try a search engine? I got many hits with "SCR-625". For
example, several Web sites say the U.S. Army manual for your mine
detector is TM 11-4016.
I saw one guy who has a photocopy of that manual for sale.
Unfortunately, his Web site says that after the Sept. 11 attacks he
stopped shipping to foreign countries. Maybe if you ask very politely
if he will sell to overseas customers again someday, and tell him
about your mine detector, you might get a manual from him.
There was another Web site selling an original manual (not a copy)
but it was much more expensive.
I also saw someone selling a complete SCR-625 in good condition for
$90.
There was one on eBay too, I think.
I'm crossposting this to a few other newsgroups.
--
Paul Hirose <ewwb4-khh25@earINVALIDthlink.net
To reply by email delete INVALID from address.
Guest
there must be a way to get these for less than that, $218 for one is more than the thing is worth.
D
David
Guest
Seems to me the list price was something like $1500 for it when it was new.
$218 is in fact a reasonable price for a repair part. Just because it is
old technology now and not worth much used does not mean it does not have
value to the owner to have it repaired.
BTW That was one of Sharps less than the best designs. As Sharp and Samsung
(and others) so often produce a lemon about every other model year.
<chrisbaime@wi.rr.com> wrote in message
news:g2Gxc.89608$oQ6.33836@twister.rdc-kc.rr.com...
$218 is in fact a reasonable price for a repair part. Just because it is
old technology now and not worth much used does not mean it does not have
value to the owner to have it repaired.
BTW That was one of Sharps less than the best designs. As Sharp and Samsung
(and others) so often produce a lemon about every other model year.
<chrisbaime@wi.rr.com> wrote in message
news:g2Gxc.89608$oQ6.33836@twister.rdc-kc.rr.com...
there must be a way to get these for less than that, $218 for one is more
than the thing is worth.
J
JURB6006
Guest
This is a newsgroup. I have no idea who runs the place, but I appreciate it's
existence. What I don't understand is that there isn't a simple filter to dump
posts containing the word fuck, for example. There could be a simple word list,
which should be posted from time to time such as the repairfaq pointer.
I understand this group is unmoderated (or it appears so with posts like that),
but this could be a simple automated process. I was interested in electronics
at 8 years old, and had we computers and internet, , , , , , what could happen.
Now in my personal life, there are times I'm quite the pottymouth in my own
home, or certain other places. In public I tend to clean it up, although I slip
sometimes.
If I was a young person, living in, say a Christian home where this kind of
language is not tolerated, my parent could walk up on me and be horrified and
cut me off, or the ISP or filters on the PC might block all access to SER, or
maybe all newsgroups.
I don't think this serves any of our interests.
Am I off base here, or is it that I'm alright but the world is all wrong
(present company excluded) ?
JURB
existence. What I don't understand is that there isn't a simple filter to dump
posts containing the word fuck, for example. There could be a simple word list,
which should be posted from time to time such as the repairfaq pointer.
I understand this group is unmoderated (or it appears so with posts like that),
but this could be a simple automated process. I was interested in electronics
at 8 years old, and had we computers and internet, , , , , , what could happen.
Now in my personal life, there are times I'm quite the pottymouth in my own
home, or certain other places. In public I tend to clean it up, although I slip
sometimes.
If I was a young person, living in, say a Christian home where this kind of
language is not tolerated, my parent could walk up on me and be horrified and
cut me off, or the ISP or filters on the PC might block all access to SER, or
maybe all newsgroups.
I don't think this serves any of our interests.
Am I off base here, or is it that I'm alright but the world is all wrong
(present company excluded) ?
JURB
J
John Miller
Guest
JURB6006 wrote:
through a single point, whereas Usenet is actually a distributed service
where messages are posted to hundreds of thousands of news servers around
the globe, from which they propagated across Usenet.
As a result, the only possible filtering is on the client, or newsreader
end, with the exception of moderated newsgroups, in which messages do flow
through a single point.
Usenet. Check out the newsgroup 'news.announce.newusers' for a good
jump-start.
--
John Miller, remembering bnews
Email address: domain, n4vu.com; username, jsm
.... though his invention worked superbly -- his theory was a crock of sewage
from beginning to end.
-Vernor Vinge, "The Peace War"
No one. See below.This is a newsgroup. I have no idea who runs the place,
The problem, y'see, is that you're thinking that Usenet postings all goWhat I don't understand is that there isn't a simple
filter to dump posts containing the word fuck, for example.
through a single point, whereas Usenet is actually a distributed service
where messages are posted to hundreds of thousands of news servers around
the globe, from which they propagated across Usenet.
As a result, the only possible filtering is on the client, or newsreader
end, with the exception of moderated newsgroups, in which messages do flow
through a single point.
Probably neither of the above, but it sounds as though you may be new toAm I off base here, or is it that I'm alright but the world is all wrong
(present company excluded) ?
Usenet. Check out the newsgroup 'news.announce.newusers' for a good
jump-start.
--
John Miller, remembering bnews
Email address: domain, n4vu.com; username, jsm
.... though his invention worked superbly -- his theory was a crock of sewage
from beginning to end.
-Vernor Vinge, "The Peace War"
D
Dbowey
Guest
JURB posted:
<< This is a newsgroup. I have no idea who runs the place, but I appreciate
it's
existence. What I don't understand is that there isn't a simple filter to dump
posts containing the word fuck, for example. There could be a simple word list,
which should be posted from time to time such as the repairfaq pointer.
I understand this group is unmoderated (or it appears so with posts like that),
but this could be a simple automated process. I was interested in electronics
at 8 years old, and had we computers and internet, , , , , , what could happen.
Now in my personal life, there are times I'm quite the pottymouth in my own
home, or certain other places. In public I tend to clean it up, although I slip
sometimes.
If I was a young person, living in, say a Christian home where this kind of
language is not tolerated, my parent could walk up on me and be horrified and
cut me off, or the ISP or filters on the PC might block all access to SER, or
maybe all newsgroups.
I don't think this serves any of our interests.
Am I off base here, or is it that I'm alright but the world is all wrong
(present company excluded) ?
I don't think you are off base, and I wish things on the newsboards weren't
aimed so low so often, but.......
At the end of any consideration I give to anyone's control of what I should be
able to write or read, I am totally opposed to such control.
The problem is that we might agree on a particular control, such as base
language on the newsgroups, but that would only be a beginning. Eventually
someone will want to prohibit other words or even topics. It could come to
pass that any posts containing negative language about homeland security or
broadband over power-lines would be removed immediately and we would never see
them.
I don't have an answer, but I know that thought control isn't a good one.
Don
<< This is a newsgroup. I have no idea who runs the place, but I appreciate
it's
existence. What I don't understand is that there isn't a simple filter to dump
posts containing the word fuck, for example. There could be a simple word list,
which should be posted from time to time such as the repairfaq pointer.
I understand this group is unmoderated (or it appears so with posts like that),
but this could be a simple automated process. I was interested in electronics
at 8 years old, and had we computers and internet, , , , , , what could happen.
Now in my personal life, there are times I'm quite the pottymouth in my own
home, or certain other places. In public I tend to clean it up, although I slip
sometimes.
If I was a young person, living in, say a Christian home where this kind of
language is not tolerated, my parent could walk up on me and be horrified and
cut me off, or the ISP or filters on the PC might block all access to SER, or
maybe all newsgroups.
I don't think this serves any of our interests.
Am I off base here, or is it that I'm alright but the world is all wrong
(present company excluded) ?
I don't think you are off base, and I wish things on the newsboards weren't
aimed so low so often, but.......
At the end of any consideration I give to anyone's control of what I should be
able to write or read, I am totally opposed to such control.
The problem is that we might agree on a particular control, such as base
language on the newsgroups, but that would only be a beginning. Eventually
someone will want to prohibit other words or even topics. It could come to
pass that any posts containing negative language about homeland security or
broadband over power-lines would be removed immediately and we would never see
them.
I don't have an answer, but I know that thought control isn't a good one.
Don
T
The Real Andy
Guest
If you don't like, dont fucken read it. You will never escape the type
of behaviour, even if you are a good christian boy or whatever.
On 12 Jun 2004 22:29:03 GMT, jurb6006@aol.com (JURB6006) wrote:
of behaviour, even if you are a good christian boy or whatever.
On 12 Jun 2004 22:29:03 GMT, jurb6006@aol.com (JURB6006) wrote:
This is a newsgroup. I have no idea who runs the place, but I appreciate it's
existence. What I don't understand is that there isn't a simple filter to dump
posts containing the word fuck, for example. There could be a simple word list,
which should be posted from time to time such as the repairfaq pointer.
I understand this group is unmoderated (or it appears so with posts like that),
but this could be a simple automated process. I was interested in electronics
at 8 years old, and had we computers and internet, , , , , , what could happen.
Now in my personal life, there are times I'm quite the pottymouth in my own
home, or certain other places. In public I tend to clean it up, although I slip
sometimes.
If I was a young person, living in, say a Christian home where this kind of
language is not tolerated, my parent could walk up on me and be horrified and
cut me off, or the ISP or filters on the PC might block all access to SER, or
maybe all newsgroups.
I don't think this serves any of our interests.
Am I off base here, or is it that I'm alright but the world is all wrong
(present company excluded) ?
JURB
W
Wild Bill
Guest
The only possible solution is to become a net cop, and trace/track the
source of this type of worthless crap, then report it to the source server
admin.
I don't personally know that this action has any effect, but numerous folks
spend a lot of time (or waste it, depending on how you look at it) reporting
these types of posts.
If it's children doing it (as it's definitely childish behavior), then you
might expect that parents should be aware of, and not approve of what
they're doing.. but those expectations may not be realistic.
I just don't read anything with a similar subject line.. and I haven't read
this one.
The general attitude of most folks on usenet is to just ignore these
behaviors, and without attention, the authors will simply go elsewhere.
I consider this newsgroup to be one of the most valuable online resources
that exists. I admire the amount of time that Sam and the many intelligent
participants exert to uphold the quality and high standard of free
information.
My personal opinion is that each individual should use their own filters.
The limiting of our basic liberty of free speech isn't a wise solution.
I've just recently revisited SER, and in the several years that I followed
it daily, I don't remember all that many trash posts, but I completely agree
that this isn't an appropriate forum for such crap.
Cheers
WB
..................
"JURB6006" <jurb6006@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20040612182903.02177.00001197@mb-m28.aol.com...
source of this type of worthless crap, then report it to the source server
admin.
I don't personally know that this action has any effect, but numerous folks
spend a lot of time (or waste it, depending on how you look at it) reporting
these types of posts.
If it's children doing it (as it's definitely childish behavior), then you
might expect that parents should be aware of, and not approve of what
they're doing.. but those expectations may not be realistic.
I just don't read anything with a similar subject line.. and I haven't read
this one.
The general attitude of most folks on usenet is to just ignore these
behaviors, and without attention, the authors will simply go elsewhere.
I consider this newsgroup to be one of the most valuable online resources
that exists. I admire the amount of time that Sam and the many intelligent
participants exert to uphold the quality and high standard of free
information.
My personal opinion is that each individual should use their own filters.
The limiting of our basic liberty of free speech isn't a wise solution.
I've just recently revisited SER, and in the several years that I followed
it daily, I don't remember all that many trash posts, but I completely agree
that this isn't an appropriate forum for such crap.
Cheers
WB
..................
"JURB6006" <jurb6006@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20040612182903.02177.00001197@mb-m28.aol.com...
This is a newsgroup. I have no idea who runs the place, but I appreciate
it's
existence. What I don't understand is that there isn't a simple filter to
dump
posts containing the word fuck, for example. There could be a simple word
list,
which should be posted from time to time such as the repairfaq pointer.
I understand this group is unmoderated (or it appears so with posts like
that),
but this could be a simple automated process. I was interested in
electronics
at 8 years old, and had we computers and internet, , , , , , what could
happen.
Now in my personal life, there are times I'm quite the pottymouth in my
own
home, or certain other places. In public I tend to clean it up, although I
slip
sometimes.
If I was a young person, living in, say a Christian home where this kind
of
language is not tolerated, my parent could walk up on me and be horrified
and
cut me off, or the ISP or filters on the PC might block all access to SER,
or
maybe all newsgroups.
I don't think this serves any of our interests.
Am I off base here, or is it that I'm alright but the world is all wrong
(present company excluded) ?
JURB
H
hemyd
Guest
Because of a serious health condition I daily read a medical newsgroup. Same
crap there - spammers, scammers, trolls, juveniles posting nonsense (such as
the subject referred to). Like this newsgroup, the one I read is unmoderated
Usenet type. Uncensored. Can't stop anyone posting. Can't filter out posts
you don't like. Disadvantages are that you get a lot of misinformation and
garbage. Advantages are that you pick up much invaluable information. I have
picked up many useful tips here at s.e.r. The medical newsgroup I read has
prolonged my life.
You can probably find moderated forums instead of newsgroups, where there
won't be any nonsense, but I believe in the open interchange of ideas of an
unmoderated newsgroup.
Henry
Australia
"JURB6006" <jurb6006@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20040612182903.02177.00001197@mb-m28.aol.com...
crap there - spammers, scammers, trolls, juveniles posting nonsense (such as
the subject referred to). Like this newsgroup, the one I read is unmoderated
Usenet type. Uncensored. Can't stop anyone posting. Can't filter out posts
you don't like. Disadvantages are that you get a lot of misinformation and
garbage. Advantages are that you pick up much invaluable information. I have
picked up many useful tips here at s.e.r. The medical newsgroup I read has
prolonged my life.
You can probably find moderated forums instead of newsgroups, where there
won't be any nonsense, but I believe in the open interchange of ideas of an
unmoderated newsgroup.
Henry
Australia
"JURB6006" <jurb6006@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20040612182903.02177.00001197@mb-m28.aol.com...
This is a newsgroup. I have no idea who runs the place, but I appreciate
it's
existence. What I don't understand is that there isn't a simple filter to
dump
posts containing the word fuck, for example. There could be a simple word
list,
which should be posted from time to time such as the repairfaq pointer.