Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[feklar (was feklar@rock.c]

Hey, thanks, Steve, for that immensely useful and informative
information.

This should get my setup fixed straight up. I really appreciate your
fast and thorough and detailed reply. That one needs to be saved in
some info archive somewhere

I don't know what I was thinking, I left off the K for the pickup
ohms... been too long since I dealt with that I guess. Well, maybe
I'm just getting old, too, I guess. Six months ago I wax potted my
pickups and measured them, 5.6K, 5.6K and 8K. Very strange...

First I lose my virginity, then I lose my ass, and now I can't even
keep my Ks... this is a sorry state of affairs.

ptaakhangsat@sbcglobal.net
subtract where I hang at to unmunge

feklar's guitar playing:
http://www.angelfire.com/empire2/kahless
This will always take you to my ftp server if its up.

The Amazing and Mysterious Powers of Mexican Females.
Chapter 1: Levitation and Summoning.
http://www.angelfire.com/empire2/ptaak/images/mexwench.jpg

 

[feklar (was feklar@rock.c]

On Tue, 16 Dec 2003 14:28:53 GMT, " Stephen Cowell"
<scowell@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

If this is so, you need to install a blocking cap so
the DC doesn't interfere with the transformer
(DC will saturate a transformer core). You can
use a 1uF ceramic in series with the lead to the
transmitter.

If it is putting out voltage and current to power a condenser mic,
what voltage measurement would I expect to find across the mic input?

It takes about 1.5VDC to power an electret
condenser, IIRC.
__
Steve

I finally remembered the location of my DMM.

I used it to check, and I'm getting 3.29 volts DC across the wireless
transmitter's mic input. Will the 1uF ceramic get the job done? Do I
install that on the ground side? (Negative electrons flow to the
positive terminal, right?)

I hope I didn't damage my guitar's pickups by sending the 3.29 volts
DC straight through them for about 8 hours over the last few days...
they seem OK though.

ptaakhangsat@sbcglobal.net
subtract where I hang at to unmunge

feklar's guitar playing:
http://www.angelfire.com/empire2/kahless
This will always take you to my ftp server if its up.

The Amazing and Mysterious Powers of Mexican Females.
Chapter 1: Levitation and Summoning.
http://www.angelfire.com/empire2/ptaak/images/mexwench.jpg

 

[Steve Eaton]

Dude, why make it difficult, just go buy a direct box.
$15-25 for a passive transformer type.
More for one that will cut levels and lift grounds
(for balanced to unbalanced applications)





"feklar (was feklar@rock.com)" <ptaakhangsat@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:3fdec7d4.31756961@news.dallas.sbcglobal.net...

On Tue, 16 Dec 2003 06:30:47 GMT, " Stephen Cowell"
scowell@sbcglobal.net> wrote:


"feklar (was feklar@rock.com)" <ptaakhangsat@sbcglobal.net> wrote in
message
news:3fde7279.9903140@news.dallas.sbcglobal.net...


...

I want to modify my wireless microphone transmitter to better serve as
a guitar transmitter. The signal getting from the guitar to the
transmitter is weak.

You need a high-to-low transformer, or a
buffer amplifier, in between your guitar and
the wireless unit. It is designed for low-
impedance, whereas guitars are high-imp.
I won't confuse you with balanced-unbalanced
right now... just get a mic transformer at
Rat Shak and put it in between. It's pretty
obvious where to connect the high/low.
__
Steve
.


I take it you mean this one:

http://tinyurl.com/zfmm

1,000-ohm center-tapped primary, 8-ohm secondary.

So, I take and wire the 8 ohm secondary to the guitar side, and the
1000 ohm primary to the mic jack on the transmitter?

That halfway makes sense considering the average 8 ohm or so
resistance of a guitar pickup... or did you mean the other way
around?

Say a strat single coil measures at 6 ohms. Is that the impedance
value?

What are the average impedance values for pickups and microphones,
just out of curiosity?

The transmitter accepts a mini mono plug, it doesn't expect a balanced
mic input, just an el cheapo mic input. I haven't checked it yet but
it would not surprise me if the input jack was putting out a small
current for a condenser mic. If it is, I wonder if there is any
danger to my pickups? Seems to work fine the way it is, with the
exception of the low input signal problem.

If it is putting out voltage and current to power a condenser mic,
what voltage measurement would I expect to find across the mic input?

TIA

ptaakhangsat@sbcglobal.net
subtract where I hang at to unmunge

feklar's guitar playing:
http://www.angelfire.com/empire2/kahless
This will always take you to my ftp server if its up.

The Amazing and Mysterious Powers of Mexican Females.
Chapter 1: Levitation and Summoning.
http://www.angelfire.com/empire2/ptaak/images/mexwench.jpg

 

[Steve Eaton]

"feklar (was feklar@rock.com)" <ptaakhangsat@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:3fdf6759.72600116@news.dallas.sbcglobal.net...

On Tue, 16 Dec 2003 14:28:53 GMT, " Stephen Cowell"
scowell@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

If this is so, you need to install a blocking cap so
the DC doesn't interfere with the transformer
(DC will saturate a transformer core). You can
use a 1uF ceramic in series with the lead to the
transmitter.

If it is putting out voltage and current to power a condenser mic,
what voltage measurement would I expect to find across the mic input?

It takes about 1.5VDC to power an electret
condenser, IIRC.
__
Steve

I finally remembered the location of my DMM.

I used it to check, and I'm getting 3.29 volts DC across the wireless
transmitter's mic input. Will the 1uF ceramic get the job done? Do I
install that on the ground side? (Negative electrons flow to the
positive terminal, right?)

I hope I didn't damage my guitar's pickups by sending the 3.29 volts
DC straight through them for about 8 hours over the last few days...
they seem OK though.

I'm not sure what that would be, as phantom power is usually ~48vdc.
And no it shouldn't hurt anything.

ptaakhangsat@sbcglobal.net
subtract where I hang at to unmunge

feklar's guitar playing:
http://www.angelfire.com/empire2/kahless
This will always take you to my ftp server if its up.

The Amazing and Mysterious Powers of Mexican Females.
Chapter 1: Levitation and Summoning.
http://www.angelfire.com/empire2/ptaak/images/mexwench.jpg

 

[Andre]

"Jerry G." <jerryg50@hotmail.com> wrote in message news:<brlnqq$39q$2@news.eusc.inter.net>...

Citrus PunchFirst of all, never send full HTML, and especialy with graphics
on these newsgroups.

Your VCR may have a power supply fault to start with. Without detailed
references to voltages from the power supply to start with, this would be
difficult to guess at.

You may have a warn head, or you may be lucky, and it is a bit dirty. The
alignment should not be off, unless you messed with it. When changing the
head, you would have to do the guide alignment. You would need a scope,
calibration tape, and most likely the service manual.

--

Greetings,

Jerry Greenberg GLG Technologies GLG
=========================================
WebPage http://www.zoom-one.com
Electronics http://www.zoom-one.com/electron.htm
=========================================


"Manzur Yazdani" <farmanz@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:brkt6g$de9$1@news01.intel.com...


Hi folks,
I am new to this forum and have 2 specific problems I am hoping to get your
expert help with. I have 2 of these combo units.
One of them turns on fine, but after a while turns back off automatically.

PSU caps probably bad. See if you can get a "Relkit" for this unit,
from one of the major suppliers (Telepart, CPC, MCM, Grandata)

Am I correct in assuming that its the VCR portion that is making it do so?
Could it be that the roller guides (supply or take-up) are stuck and that is
what is making the power turn off? Or is it the reel sensors?

That is possible - it may be as simple as a bad mode switch or
weakened tape sensor LED (the one in the centre of the mechanism).

The 2nd unit DVD works fine, and the vcr loads fine and plays fine except
that the picutre looks like a dirty head for some cassettes and some will
play just fine with crystal clear picture.

Check that both roller guides are locking every time. I saw this on a
few JVC HRDseries videos where the brass pins came loose.

Be aware that this may progress to a "roller guide smashes into
spinning head" fault on the very next play of a tape if the pin comes
off entirely!

Also, make sure to do them both if they are even slightly loose else
you will be repeating the repair very shortly.

-A

Tracking has no effect. Is this a

misaligned head, and if so, how do I fix this?
Thanks in advance for your help.
Manzur.

 

[Bob]

Ok, So I'm wondering why there is a lack of power to the Canon T90!

So I open the Battery Compartment, I look down and see the Battery end
terminals, I use a penlite to see better...no hell.

What I do see is that the terminals at the bottom of the Battery
Compartment are no shiny, as a matter of fact, the circular + terminal is black,
whereas the - terminal is metallic.
So I tried a sandpaper pen I designed for these hard to get projects and
try to get a shine on the terminals....no luck, what I may be looking at is a
black plastic fill in the center of the circular + terminal, not anodized
metal. Can anyone confirm that?

There is no sign of anodizing in any other cameras or any terminals on
any of the T90 terminals anywhere at all. The circular + terminal end terminal
looks like some sabotage if the center of the circular + terminal is made of
black plastic!

Anyone ever been through this trip?

ThanX in Advance

Bob


Triad Productions-Fantalla(tm)~EZine~Para-Novel
WEB>>> http://pages.istar.ca/~vampire/index.htm
BBS>255-8787> 1 Ring/Hangup/Wait 20 sec/ReCall.

 

[Steve Bell]

On 21/12/03 4:07 am, in article 6v6auvkjg795bf9m2opeo8h7g3a47k4k0u@4ax.com,
"Bob" <vampire@istar.ca> wrote:

Ok, So I'm wondering why there is a lack of power to the Canon T90!

So I open the Battery Compartment, I look down and see the Battery end
terminals, I use a penlite to see better...no hell.

What I do see is that the terminals at the bottom of the Battery
Compartment are no shiny, as a matter of fact, the circular + terminal is
black,
whereas the - terminal is metallic.
So I tried a sandpaper pen I designed for these hard to get projects and
try to get a shine on the terminals....no luck, what I may be looking at is a
black plastic fill in the center of the circular + terminal, not anodized
metal. Can anyone confirm that?

There is no sign of anodizing in any other cameras or any terminals on
any of the T90 terminals anywhere at all. The circular + terminal end
terminal
looks like some sabotage if the center of the circular + terminal is made of
black plastic!

Anyone ever been through this trip?

ThanX in Advance

Bob


Triad Productions-Fantalla(tm)~EZine~Para-Novel
WEB>>> http://pages.istar.ca/~vampire/index.htm
BBS>255-8787> 1 Ring/Hangup/Wait 20 sec/ReCall.

I've just looked into my T90's battery compartment, the left contact (+) is
black, and it's working fine.

Does anything appear in the display? Even with the 4 AA cells out you should
see the film number in the LCD display.

Somewhere I think I've a pdf of the service manual if you need it.

Steve Bell

 

Well that's amazing, we now have black metal, or something, and it's so
hard to see down there, to actually view the construction of these little
terminal tabs!

All works properly with good nu batteries, in the standard compartment,
and I guess I won't be needing a Quantum battery module to boost it!

How do U figure the current is getting to through the plastic, since
there is just a small hair sized metal rim, around the plastic + terminal stud!

If U have the canon T90 *.pdf file, can U send it or provide a link?

ThanX in Advance

Bob


On Sun, 21 Dec 2003 11:09:56 +0000, Steve Bell <steve@sb-technical.fsnet.co.uk>
wrote:

|>On 21/12/03 4:07 am, in article 6v6auvkjg795bf9m2opeo8h7g3a47k4k0u@4ax.com,
|>"Bob" <vampire@istar.ca> wrote:
|>
|>>
|>> Ok, So I'm wondering why there is a lack of power to the Canon T90!
|>>
|>> So I open the Battery Compartment, I look down and see the Battery end
|>> terminals, I use a penlite to see better...no hell.
|>>
|>> What I do see is that the terminals at the bottom of the Battery
|>> Compartment are no shiny, as a matter of fact, the circular + terminal is
|>> black,
|>> whereas the - terminal is metallic.
|>> So I tried a sandpaper pen I designed for these hard to get projects and
|>> try to get a shine on the terminals....no luck, what I may be looking at is a
|>> black plastic fill in the center of the circular + terminal, not anodized
|>> metal. Can anyone confirm that?
|>>
|>> There is no sign of anodizing in any other cameras or any terminals on
|>> any of the T90 terminals anywhere at all. The circular + terminal end
|>> terminal
|>> looks like some sabotage if the center of the circular + terminal is made of
|>> black plastic!
|>>
|>> Anyone ever been through this trip?
|>>
|>> ThanX in Advance
|>>
|>> Bob
|>>
|>>
|>> Triad Productions-Fantalla(tm)~EZine~Para-Novel
|>> WEB>>> http://pages.istar.ca/~vampire/index.htm
|>> BBS>255-8787> 1 Ring/Hangup/Wait 20 sec/ReCall.
|>
|>I've just looked into my T90's battery compartment, the left contact (+) is
|>black, and it's working fine.
|>
|>Does anything appear in the display? Even with the 4 AA cells out you should
|>see the film number in the LCD display.
|>
|>Somewhere I think I've a pdf of the service manual if you need it.
|>
|>Steve Bell

Triad Productions-Fantalla(tm)~EZine~Para-Novel
WWW>>> http://triad.virtualave.net/index.htm
offnet>>> http://triad.virtualave.net/contact.html

 

[Roy Wiggins]

My mistake should have been the Sharp SF7300
Roy
"Roy Wiggins" <roy@roywig.go-plus.net> wrote in message
news:cpFFb.1679$F07.14705992@news-1.opaltelecom.net...

Anybody know where I can get spares for this copier?
particularly - a 48 tooth gear wheel part No. NGERH0443FCZ1
MANY THANKS
Roy

 

[JURB6006]

Hi;

Thanx to all who read and replied to my question (PC/AV).

To recap, ATI All in Wonder 7500 running into a Mits. 35MX1 (not sure if it's a
CS or a CK). It appears, as said that the signal is not quite standard. The
COMB filter in the Mits. really doesn't get along well with this signal. It
does do a decent job on regular TV broadcasts though, and it has been rebuilt
(which means replacing just about every SMD lytic on it).

Now I built this system for the guy and when it was here I connected it to my
Sony KPR 36XBR which has the old analog one line COMB filter (which has been
aligned to a T on a standard NTSC signal). It separated the Y and C just fine,
but being a one liner, it had the "hanging dots" on the first line of a block
of highly saturated color. The interesting part is that the hanging dots are
stationary ! Normally they move due to interlace. Now the signal <u>does</u>
have frame/field interlace. I can tell on the screen, just like a normal signal
the raster lines can appear to move up or down if you let your eyes follow. Now
in the ATI video however, either the H and V frequencies are shifted slightly
or the color subcarrier is, proven by the fact that the hanging dots do not
move. The fact that the COMB filter is not behaving well leads me to believe
that it is the color subcarrier that is shifted, but this might not be true,
the Mits COMB filter might use sweep timing to generate a clock signal, but it
doesn't matter, either way the phasing is off and it looks terrible. Don't
forget it is just fine on regular video.

Iv'e read in the past about sets that bypass the COMB filter for a VCR, and
indeed from a VCR a COMB filter only degrades the quality. How would a set know
it's a VCR rather than a video game or a component or satellite tuner ? I guess
it could be detected due to the time base errors inherent in a VHS signal, but
I haven't seen it implemented on any schematic that I know of, but it could be
buried in logic where I would never see it.

This all could become a moot point, (but interesting) if only I could get the
Mits to use the SVHS input. Now that Iv'e read the replies (thanx again) I
wonder if the little microswitch might just be dirty and if I plugged and
unplugged the input about 50 times it might just start working. The question
now is, is the switch at the SVHS or composite jack ? I used one of the audio
cables for the composite and can confirm that the TV is using the composite
even when the SVHS plug is inserted. This (input 1) composite has been used in
the past but to my knowledge the SVHS input has thusfar never been used.

Jumping to another reply suggesting I look in the display properties on the PC,
I looked around there and there are very few options, for one the refresh is
going to stay 60 Hz no matter what for the TV. Certain other refresh rates for
the PC monitor cause loss of the TV display. Apparently there are some
"illegal" combinations that simply won't work when you have the desktop (not
extended) on the TV. There is one thing I might try though, I did notice a
setting for 8 bit or 16 bit color. Of couse it gives me all the way to 32 bit
for the PC monitor but not the TVO. At 8 bit, my TV looked pretty good, just
how much possibility is there that the more advanced COMB filter might benefit
from the 16 bit setting? I think that would depend on if the timing is changed.
Perhaps the 8 bit setting is for gamers who would want to devote the most
resources and VRAM to the game.

I'm not particularly crazy about ATI's software. I think it goes a bit too deep
into the firmware, this evidenced by the fact that if you set a bad combination
of settings you lose the BIOS screen etc. when booting, not just the Windows
driven display. Damn video card BIOS ought to be a little more stable than
that. This card had the same type of problems in an Athlon XP system, and I
engineered the sale of it to this guy because I was told that the ATI cards
work better with Intel. Building a P4 system it seemed a good way to go. (nice
price too)

I have downloaded and tried to install ATI's update/patch/whatever file twice
and there is an error in the software. It won't run.

Anyway, thank you all for even reading these long posts. I don't mean to be
long-winded but these problems can be complex, and I like to include detail
like what has been tried etc. The stuff about the COMB filter not working right
is more esoteric, on the practical side I see I'll have to find out why the
Mits. doesn't switch to the SVHS input. I'm on it. (of course the Mits. is now
sitting on a 4 foot high shelf with 3 VCRs and a DVD on top, but I'll manage)

This isn't the end of my concerns though, I wonder how this signal will record
on a VCR. The CNR in the VHS system is pretty COMB dependant. I'll let you know
how that turns out next time I go there.

Next time I think I'll get the GeForce .

JURB

 

[BWL]

The SVHS switch (if there is one) is built into the S video connector. Have you
searched the setup menu's carefully? it may be possible to "assign" the AUX 1
input to S video or Composite.

 

[Leif Harcke]

On Mon, 29 Dec 2003 22:11:09 -0800, Paul Dowsley wrote:

My Loewe Planus 4072 flatline TV freaks out whenever I play a DVD
which features dominant areas of white on the screen.

Could possibly be

1) Failing power supply. Displaying an all-white screen draws quite a
bit of current. Our DVD player over-drives our 20" Zenith on bright
white scenes (like explosions) as the Zenith has a cheapie power
supply. I wouldn't expect this behavior from a properly functioning
high-end TV like a Loewe. Have the service tech test the power
supply.

2) Loss of video sync. The synchronization circuit in the TV could be
failing to hold onto the signal when there is a high level (all white)
signal present on the video input.

It never happens with live-to-air TV or from pictures off VHS.

Broadcast TV video is filtered to avoid overdriving the TV transmitter
at the tower. DVDs can stress a TV in ways that broadcast TV and VHS
never do.

-Leif

 

[Jerry G.]

The dynamic range of the DVD player, in sort of very simplistic terms is
very wide. The signal from the player can be very saturated at times, in
relation to what your set can handle. If you take a scope to the output of
the player, it should be in specs. The P-P of the video signal should not
be over 1 Volt, including the sync signal. The power supply and high
voltage regulation in your set is most likely inadequate due to age, and or
capability by design.

I would suggest to get a more modern set that is well designed. The big name
brand sets are very stable when working properly.

--

Greetings,

Jerry Greenberg GLG Technologies GLG
=========================================
WebPage http://www.zoom-one.com
Electronics http://www.zoom-one.com/electron.htm
=========================================


"Leif Harcke" &lt;lharcke@Stanford.EDU&gt; wrote in message
newsan.2003.12.30.16.03.23.721717.26899@Stanford.EDU...
On Mon, 29 Dec 2003 22:11:09 -0800, Paul Dowsley wrote:

My Loewe Planus 4072 flatline TV freaks out whenever I play a DVD
which features dominant areas of white on the screen.

Could possibly be

1) Failing power supply. Displaying an all-white screen draws quite a
bit of current. Our DVD player over-drives our 20" Zenith on bright
white scenes (like explosions) as the Zenith has a cheapie power
supply. I wouldn't expect this behavior from a properly functioning
high-end TV like a Loewe. Have the service tech test the power
supply.

2) Loss of video sync. The synchronization circuit in the TV could be
failing to hold onto the signal when there is a high level (all white)
signal present on the video input.

It never happens with live-to-air TV or from pictures off VHS.

Broadcast TV video is filtered to avoid overdriving the TV transmitter
at the tower. DVDs can stress a TV in ways that broadcast TV and VHS
never do.

-Leif

 

[Leif Harcke]

On Tue, 30 Dec 2003 09:21:16 -0800, Jerry G. wrote:

The power supply and high voltage regulation in your set is most
likely inadequate due to age, and or capability by design. I would
suggest to get a more modern set that is well designed. The big name
brand sets are very stable when working properly.

The original poster's set is a Loewe, a high-end, German-built 16x9
direct view TV (http://www.loeweus.com/) that is HDTV capable in
addition to handling the 480p signal from a progressive DVD player.
Loewe sets typically retail for $2k-$3k for a 30" 16x9 widescreen, and
$5k-$6k for a 38" 16x9 widescreen.

If the set won't take the peaks on a standard DVD signal, either the
player's output (Panasonic) is out of spec, the set's power supply is
failing, or the set's sync circuits are bad. A service tech should be
called out to take a look at the TV.

-Leif

 

[Leif Harcke]

On Tue, 30 Dec 2003 09:39:20 -0800, Leif Harcke wrote:

If the set won't take the peaks on a standard DVD signal, either the
player's output (Panasonic)

Er, make that Pioneer, not Panasonic.

-Leif

 

[Jeroni Paul]

Hi

I've an ATI Radeon 7000/VE and have extensively used its video output for
multiple purposes. The results are perfect, just like a broadcasted signal,
in any TV and recorded on VCR, either cheap or high end 100Hz (never tried
those old non-standard Sonys with tint adjustment). I don't know what
differences might exist with the 7500 card but in my display properties are
some options. The TV output can be set as primary or secondary display, if
set as primary it'll force monitor output to the same refresh rate,
otherwise the monitor and TV can have different refresh but TV out will not
render overlays or some multimedia contents. There are some adjustments that
refer to color artifacts, interlacing and static/dynamic optimization that I
never played with. The startup and BIOS screen display just fine but you
have to have the TV plugged to the card at PC turn on otherwise the card
will disable TV output.
I'm in Europe and I have it set to output PAL B/G at 50Hz but also get a
good picture setting it to NTSC on a multisystem TV.

BTW I've heard ATI is the best card for TV output and NVidia is not as good.

JURB6006 expuso:

Hi;

Thanx to all who read and replied to my question (PC/AV).

To recap, ATI All in Wonder 7500 running into a Mits. 35MX1 (not sure
if it's a CS or a CK). It appears, as said that the signal is not
quite standard. The COMB filter in the Mits. really doesn't get along
well with this signal. It does do a decent job on regular TV
broadcasts though, and it has been rebuilt (which means replacing
just about every SMD lytic on it).

Now I built this system for the guy and when it was here I connected
it to my Sony KPR 36XBR which has the old analog one line COMB filter
(which has been aligned to a T on a standard NTSC signal). It
separated the Y and C just fine, but being a one liner, it had the
"hanging dots" on the first line of a block of highly saturated
color. The interesting part is that the hanging dots are stationary !
Normally they move due to interlace. Now the signal <u>does</u> have
frame/field interlace. I can tell on the screen, just like a normal
signal the raster lines can appear to move up or down if you let your
eyes follow. Now in the ATI video however, either the H and V
frequencies are shifted slightly or the color subcarrier is, proven
by the fact that the hanging dots do not move. The fact that the COMB
filter is not behaving well leads me to believe that it is the color
subcarrier that is shifted, but this might not be true, the Mits COMB
filter might use sweep timing to generate a clock signal, but it
doesn't matter, either way the phasing is off and it looks terrible.
Don't forget it is just fine on regular video.

Iv'e read in the past about sets that bypass the COMB filter for a
VCR, and indeed from a VCR a COMB filter only degrades the quality.
How would a set know it's a VCR rather than a video game or a
component or satellite tuner ? I guess it could be detected due to
the time base errors inherent in a VHS signal, but I haven't seen it
implemented on any schematic that I know of, but it could be buried
in logic where I would never see it.

This all could become a moot point, (but interesting) if only I could
get the Mits to use the SVHS input. Now that Iv'e read the replies
(thanx again) I wonder if the little microswitch might just be dirty
and if I plugged and unplugged the input about 50 times it might just
start working. The question now is, is the switch at the SVHS or
composite jack ? I used one of the audio cables for the composite and
can confirm that the TV is using the composite even when the SVHS
plug is inserted. This (input 1) composite has been used in the past
but to my knowledge the SVHS input has thusfar never been used.

Jumping to another reply suggesting I look in the display properties
on the PC, I looked around there and there are very few options, for
one the refresh is going to stay 60 Hz no matter what for the TV.
Certain other refresh rates for the PC monitor cause loss of the TV
display. Apparently there are some "illegal" combinations that simply
won't work when you have the desktop (not extended) on the TV. There
is one thing I might try though, I did notice a setting for 8 bit or
16 bit color. Of couse it gives me all the way to 32 bit for the PC
monitor but not the TVO. At 8 bit, my TV looked pretty good, just how
much possibility is there that the more advanced COMB filter might
benefit from the 16 bit setting? I think that would depend on if the
timing is changed. Perhaps the 8 bit setting is for gamers who would
want to devote the most resources and VRAM to the game.

I'm not particularly crazy about ATI's software. I think it goes a
bit too deep into the firmware, this evidenced by the fact that if
you set a bad combination of settings you lose the BIOS screen etc.
when booting, not just the Windows driven display. Damn video card
BIOS ought to be a little more stable than that. This card had the
same type of problems in an Athlon XP system, and I engineered the
sale of it to this guy because I was told that the ATI cards work
better with Intel. Building a P4 system it seemed a good way to go.
(nice price too)

I have downloaded and tried to install ATI's update/patch/whatever
file twice and there is an error in the software. It won't run.

Anyway, thank you all for even reading these long posts. I don't mean
to be long-winded but these problems can be complex, and I like to
include detail like what has been tried etc. The stuff about the COMB
filter not working right is more esoteric, on the practical side I
see I'll have to find out why the Mits. doesn't switch to the SVHS
input. I'm on it. (of course the Mits. is now sitting on a 4 foot
high shelf with 3 VCRs and a DVD on top, but I'll manage)

This isn't the end of my concerns though, I wonder how this signal
will record on a VCR. The CNR in the VHS system is pretty COMB
dependant. I'll let you know how that turns out next time I go there.

Next time I think I'll get the GeForce .

JURB

 

[ampdoc]

I missed the original post, but FYI I have seen a weak flyback cause just
this problem. Bright scenes act like loss of sync, or cause a shutdown. It
seems to be a common thing, as I have replaced several main PCB's due to
defective flybacks, most of the time they just fail completely. Loewe only
sells PCB's so if it's out of warranty be ready for the price!
(Loewe ASC)
--
Jammy Harbin
J &amp; J Electronics, Inc
227 S. 4Th St.
Selmer, TN 38375
731-645-3311
"Leif Harcke" &lt;lharcke@Stanford.EDU&gt; wrote in message
newsan.2003.12.30.16.03.23.721717.26899@Stanford.EDU...

On Mon, 29 Dec 2003 22:11:09 -0800, Paul Dowsley wrote:
My Loewe Planus 4072 flatline TV freaks out whenever I play a DVD
which features dominant areas of white on the screen.

Could possibly be

1) Failing power supply. Displaying an all-white screen draws quite a
bit of current. Our DVD player over-drives our 20" Zenith on bright
white scenes (like explosions) as the Zenith has a cheapie power
supply. I wouldn't expect this behavior from a properly functioning
high-end TV like a Loewe. Have the service tech test the power
supply.

2) Loss of video sync. The synchronization circuit in the TV could be
failing to hold onto the signal when there is a high level (all white)
signal present on the video input.

It never happens with live-to-air TV or from pictures off VHS.

Broadcast TV video is filtered to avoid overdriving the TV transmitter
at the tower. DVDs can stress a TV in ways that broadcast TV and VHS
never do.

-Leif

 

[Paul Dowsley]

Thanks Leif and Randy. I'll investigate those suggestions. Appreciate it.

Paul




Leif Harcke &lt;lharcke@Stanford.EDU&gt; wrote in message news:&lt;pan.2003.12.30.16.03.23.721717.26899@Stanford.EDU&gt;...

On Mon, 29 Dec 2003 22:11:09 -0800, Paul Dowsley wrote:
My Loewe Planus 4072 flatline TV freaks out whenever I play a DVD
which features dominant areas of white on the screen.

Could possibly be

1) Failing power supply. Displaying an all-white screen draws quite a
bit of current. Our DVD player over-drives our 20" Zenith on bright
white scenes (like explosions) as the Zenith has a cheapie power
supply. I wouldn't expect this behavior from a properly functioning
high-end TV like a Loewe. Have the service tech test the power
supply.

2) Loss of video sync. The synchronization circuit in the TV could be
failing to hold onto the signal when there is a high level (all white)
signal present on the video input.

It never happens with live-to-air TV or from pictures off VHS.

Broadcast TV video is filtered to avoid overdriving the TV transmitter
at the tower. DVDs can stress a TV in ways that broadcast TV and VHS
never do.

-Leif

 

[SEVEN SEVILLE]

FUCK I SPIT ON YOUR GRAVE

 

[Rich Jeffery CS:Sparks]

I would also add not to buy Philips CD writers!
I went through three CD writers about two years ago and still had
trouble with the third one.
Didn't get any compensation from Dabs.