Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

Whats the RCA number ?

kpi

--
"Watch the return E-Mail addy its false"
"William Buchholz" <wmbuchholz@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:6a6f10fa.0309051318.3c8611c9@posting.google.com...
I looked everywhere inside the package and all I have is the
transformer itself. I guess I will have to phone Thompson about this.
"john" <va3mmTAKEOUTTHIS@niagara.com> wrote in message
news:<newscache$r0lqkh$qzn$1@newsfeed.niagara.com>...
Those 2 parts come with the RCA replacement IHVT.

kip

--
"Watch the return E-Mail addy its false"
"William Buchholz" <wmbuchholz@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:6a6f10fa.0309042232.39544d29@posting.google.com...
I am replacing the flyback transformer on an RCA F36683ET (chassis
CTC197CE2). I don't have a service manual but I understand that both
a resistor and capacitor have to be replaced at the same time or it
wont work. I need the location and values on those two components.
Thanks
 
If its a 237506 replace C14710 with 137583 and R14704 with 239116.

kip


--
"Watch the return E-Mail addy its false"
"William Buchholz" <wmbuchholz@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:6a6f10fa.0309051318.3c8611c9@posting.google.com...
I looked everywhere inside the package and all I have is the
transformer itself. I guess I will have to phone Thompson about this.
"john" <va3mmTAKEOUTTHIS@niagara.com> wrote in message
news:<newscache$r0lqkh$qzn$1@newsfeed.niagara.com>...
Those 2 parts come with the RCA replacement IHVT.

kip

--
"Watch the return E-Mail addy its false"
"William Buchholz" <wmbuchholz@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:6a6f10fa.0309042232.39544d29@posting.google.com...
I am replacing the flyback transformer on an RCA F36683ET (chassis
CTC197CE2). I don't have a service manual but I understand that both
a resistor and capacitor have to be replaced at the same time or it
wont work. I need the location and values on those two components.
Thanks
 
In article <me-0409031307090001@192.168.0.113>, Michael wrote:
This website may be of some assistance in helping you locate the parts or
repair service you'll need.

http://www.betainfoguide.com/

Thanks. I checked it out. They had repair services but no parts. So, I'm
still looking for a carriage or some gears. There must be something out
there somewhere...
Any help is much appreciated. > > Michael
i have two of these decks, one working, one w/same problem/s. you
might want to post to rcm (rec.crafts.metalworking) to find suggested
alternatives andor sources for compatible gears. --Loren
 
In article <b29accb3.0309030653.7ce39e65@posting.google.com>, Daniel Laframboise wrote:
Good day.

We have an old BEST Ferrups FC15KVA UPS and it doesn't work.

I would like to know where I could get a service manual for that unit.

I know it's not recommended to play around in those units, but our
company has an electrical department with qualified electrician and
even an electrical P.Eng.

So, on that side, I think we're pretty well covered.
Thanks, > > Dan.
there s/b a diagram on the inside of a panel. most elec.
techs s/b able to diagnose w/o the manual unless it is
an exotic type w/pcb's. --Loren
 
Look carefully at the 130 volt B+ line for any fluctuations.
Then look at the regulator (2SD1276A) for the high voltage regulation for
short/leakage.

Good Luck,
Bill Jr


"Chris Weiler" <wma_cweiler@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:sS26b.756$He6.118@newssvr23.news.prodigy.com...
I have a Pioneer SD-P5047 projection TV that will run just fine without
signal applied. I've repaired all the solder connections on the Power
Supply - Deflection Sub Assembly board. Power the TV up and it will run
just fine. Hook up antenna or a video input, and select that input, then
the TV will run about 3 seconds and shutdown.

The set has to be unplugged to reset it and then it will power up again.
Apply a signal and the TV will shutdown again. I see that when I apply
signal that the waveform at pin 1 of T553 (ABL), goes haywire. I don't
have
time to sync my scope and the TV shutsdown. The drive input from the
Vert -
Video - Audio board looks OK, but then again, the signal is only there for
3
seconds. Not enough time to really see the waveform.

Any ideas on what to look for? Any help would be really appreciated.

Thanks, Chris.
 
In article <IxB5b.261331$cF.82597@rwcrnsc53>, jamessweet@hotmail.com
says...
"Active8" <mcolasono@earthlink.net.invalid> wrote in message
news:MPG.19bf503fefd10e4f98981c@news.east.earthlink.net...
In article <UKW4b.247032$cF.79109@rwcrnsc53>, jamessweet@hotmail.com
says...
Perhaps they had a loose neutral connection somewhere so that when a
particular appliance came on the line voltage rose.

or a 3-phase appliance with a fault on one phase causing weird stuff.

mike

A 3 phase appliance in a home? I've *never* seen 3 phase power in a home
before, would be nice though.


uh, yeah. sorry. i was thinking 120-0-120 not 3-phase.

mike
 
On Sat, 06 Sep 2003 04:06:22 GMT, Active8
<mcolasono@earthlink.net.invalid> wrote:

In article <IxB5b.261331$cF.82597@rwcrnsc53>, jamessweet@hotmail.com
says...

"Active8" <mcolasono@earthlink.net.invalid> wrote in message
news:MPG.19bf503fefd10e4f98981c@news.east.earthlink.net...
In article <UKW4b.247032$cF.79109@rwcrnsc53>, jamessweet@hotmail.com
says...
Perhaps they had a loose neutral connection somewhere so that when a
particular appliance came on the line voltage rose.

or a 3-phase appliance with a fault on one phase causing weird stuff.

mike

A 3 phase appliance in a home? I've *never* seen 3 phase power in a home
before, would be nice though.


uh, yeah. sorry. i was thinking 120-0-120 not 3-phase.

mike
I had 3-phase electric at my first "new" house in old-town (69th
Place/Oak/Scottsdale Rd.) Scottsdale in 1964-69. Made for the
smoothest running A/C before or since.

...Jim Thompson
--
| James E.Thompson, P.E. | mens |
| Analog Innovations, Inc. | et |
| Analog/Mixed-Signal ASIC's and Discrete Systems | manus |
| Phoenix, Arizona Voice:(480)460-2350 | |
| E-mail Address at Website Fax:(480)460-2142 | Brass Rat |
| http://www.analog-innovations.com | 1962 |

I love to cook with wine. Sometimes I even put it in the food.
 
In article <4r3hlvoqmml15aj5q18ido7bhigajid8f8@4ax.com>,
l@laurenceDELETEpayne.freeserve.co.uk says...
In the Netherlands, the usual setup is 3 phase wiring through the
street. Households get one of the phases and neutral, or, if they want,
all three phases.

Same here in UK, in my street anyway.
3 phases buried in the street. Each house gets one of them.

Watched a bad joint being replaced recently. The isolation box at the
end of the street had jumpers sitting in a wooden frame. Very
Victorian :)

that's pretty nice having 3-phase so accessible to the home. over here,
you'd have to get 3-phase to run stuff. kind of a pain for small
craftsmen, etc. like this girl that does pocelain dolls... 3-phase kiln.

mike
 
Yea, Probably thats what it is. MCM Sold or still sells a Plastic retainer
clip kit pretty cheap with an assortment of those clips.

All I do is relube the shaft, and put a Wad of Grease packed in under the
Sticker so the Plastic Washer & Clip last longer.


"Sam Goldwasser" <sam@saul.cis.upenn.edu> wrote in message
news:6w4qzr77ai.fsf@saul.cis.upenn.edu...
jason.mangiafico@verizon.net (JM) writes:

Hello, I have here Nidec alpha V, TA300 ac cooling fan, which is close
to two
years old. What happened is the fan blades part has separated from the
coil
part. I took a pic. Any ideas on what would cause this? Is this
common
with these fans? Is it better to replace it with another brand?

http://members.verizon.net/~vze2p7s3/fan.jpg

Looks like the little clip or washer that keeps the blade part from coming
off the shaft has come loose. It will be accessible after the lable or
plug
on the other side is removed. May be best to just buy a new fan though.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ Home Page: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Site Info: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: The email address in this message header may no longer work.
To
contact me, please use the Feedback Form at repairfaq.org. Thanks.
 
Well here's the problem, when it trys to play it
will engage and everything goes into place fine (checked and all looks good)
and the idler will go to the supply rell, but it moves very slow and jerky
and then after 2 seconds shuts it's self off.
Check the movement of the capstan motor. If it's erratic, you might want to
check the electrolytics on the capstan motor assembly. You'll also want to
replace the mode switch if you cannot dismantle it and clean it completely of
any corrosion. Hitachi mode switches are real nasty about causing big
functional problems when they are worn out or severely corroded, like having a
Hitachi VCR act partially braindead because of a non-functioning mode switch!
- Reinhart
 
i have two of these decks, one working, one w/same problem/s. you
might want to post to rcm (rec.crafts.metalworking) to find suggested
alternatives andor sources for compatible gears. --Loren
BTW, would you be selling a non-functioning deck? - Reinhart
 
I have removed some brown glue of an IC (didn't help), I'll check the caps
next, thanks for the information.

"LASERandDVDfan" <laseranddvdfan@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20030906205939.24311.00000409@mb-m16.aol.com...
Well here's the problem, when it trys to play it
will engage and everything goes into place fine (checked and all looks
good)
and the idler will go to the supply rell, but it moves very slow and
jerky
and then after 2 seconds shuts it's self off.

Check the movement of the capstan motor. If it's erratic, you might want
to
check the electrolytics on the capstan motor assembly. You'll also want
to
replace the mode switch if you cannot dismantle it and clean it completely
of
any corrosion. Hitachi mode switches are real nasty about causing big
functional problems when they are worn out or severely corroded, like
having a
Hitachi VCR act partially braindead because of a non-functioning mode
switch!
- Reinhart
 
Subject: Re: CTC197CE2 flyback replacement help
From: "john" va3mmTAKEOUTTHIS@niagara.com
Date: 9/5/03 6:51 PM Eastern Daylight Time
Message-id: <newscache$e0hrkh$bb1$1@newsfeed.niagara.com

If its a 237506 replace C14710 with 137583 and R14704 with 239116.

kip
And just to add that there is another version of this chassis that uses a
slightly larger flyback that .....

1) never fails (well, I've never seen one ;)
2) doesn't need those parts replaced when the fly is replaced.

This larger fly can be used to sub the one in the earlier version that we've
all seen fail, but two components need to be slightly relocated to allow the
larger body to fit, but it's doable.

John Del
Wolcott, CT

"Nothing is so opportune for tyrants as a people tired of its liberty."
Alan Keyes

(remove S for email reply)
 
In article <20030906210522.24311.00000411@mb-m16.aol.com>, LASERandDVDfan wrote:
i have two of these decks, one working, one w/same problem/s. you
might want to post to rcm (rec.crafts.metalworking) to find suggested
alternatives andor sources for compatible gears. --Loren

BTW, would you be selling a non-functioning deck? - Reinhart
no, not selling, i will repair it, eventually. it/they are for
my own use, the working one is hi-fi, so the other deck will be handy
when/if the mechanics go south. --Loren
 
Check for proper bias voltages and signal drives at the CRT elements,
such as the cathodes, and grids. It is very possible that the tube
itself is defective. I have had this before. But, I am judging my
opinion by your description.

--

Greetings,

Jerry Greenberg GLG Technologies GLG
==============================================
WebPage http://www.zoom-one.com
Electronics http://www.zoom-one.com/electron.htm
Instruments http://www.zoom-one.com/glgtech.htm
==============================================
"George S" <george996(NO_SPAM)@olypen.com> wrote in message
news:vlma30psjt4tb6@corp.supernews.com...
The NEC 1576 with the jumping picture, now has only a green screen and
the
windows icons are barely visible. When I first turned it on using my
Variac
I brought up the voltage until it rastered at about 120 V. All I had was
a
green raster with some retrace lines and a few seconds later it turned
into
a bright verticle line and shut itself down.

I replaced all the high esr caps and also the ones that were borderline.
I
used Nichion 105c caps the same as what were in it. I tested the zener
diodes also. After I turned down the screen control on the flyback I was
able to get a picture as I stated above.
 
kip

And just to add that there is another version of this chassis that uses a
slightly larger flyback that .....

1) never fails (well, I've never seen one ;)
2) doesn't need those parts replaced when the fly is replaced.

This larger fly can be used to sub the one in the earlier version that we've
all seen fail, but two components need to be slightly relocated to allow the
larger body to fit, but it's doable.

John Del
Wolcott, CT
What's the p/n for this revised fly (larger one)?

While upgrading from small to larger one, still need to replace that
resistor and cap components.

Cheers,

Wizard
 
Here's some more information to add to my original post, I found some
suspect readings off of the power supply here's the schematic with the spec
rating and the rating I got (in red) ITS HUGE so it will take about 1 to 5
minnutes to load off of dial up. Here's the link:
http://web.cnyconnect.net/donato/PSU.JPG
I've gone threw some suspect parts already, checked the cap (with a DMM
capacitance test don't have a ESR meter) and resistor on the AC40 volt that
reads 30. Thanks in advance to any help,

-glasnostJDC

"glasnostJDC" <JDC@nospam.net> wrote in message
news:j9v6b.1998$h5.1757@fe01.atl2.webusenet.com...
Hello, I picked up this unit. Anyway I ordered a new clutch, idler, pitch
roller, and belt and replaced those before going furthure on the unit (all
visibly worn and aged). Well here's the problem, when it trys to play it
will engage and everything goes into place fine (checked and all looks
good)
and the idler will go to the supply rell, but it moves very slow and jerky
and then after 2 seconds shuts it's self off. Fast Forward and reverse
work
fine, it just won't play. I've just got into VCRs and havn't experianced
this problem yet and can't seem to find anything that resembles my
problem.
My only idea is the Mode Switch, I've tryed cleaning it but that didn't do
any good. I do have a service manual for the unit and checked alignment by
the book for the mode switch and master cam and it checks fine, and the
mode
switch does go to the right positon. Any ideas? I'm going to tackle the
large amount of "bad" joints next (what fun;-) but I'm just looking for
suggestions so that I make sure to check all possible routes. Thanks for
any
help anyone has to offer.

VCR:
Hitachi
Model Number: VT-2700A
Serial Number: 80404588

--
-glasnostJDC
 
CRT probably if its the one I am thinking of.


"sam" <sammo2@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:4QH6b.869$G1.5322@tor-nn1.netcom.ca...
Hi

I have this old Sony 28" TV model KV-2780K ( bought it in the 1980's). The
RF input is no longer working; so I mainly use the Video input on the TV.

It has ben working ok all these year until 2 weeks ago when I noticed the
absence of blue color. For example, people wearing green Levi and green
shirts. I borrow and hook up another tv set and look at the two side by
side.

Everything else on the Sony looks good ( flesh tone etc.) except the blue
is
replaced by green. sometimes I can still see blue in small area. The WHITE
looks white which means all primary colors are present.

BTW, the tint control has no effect at all.

I have a video card with a TV-Out connection to the TV. When I send a
color
bar pattern from my computer to the TV, it displays correctly on TV. I
dont
expect to get this fixed at a repair shop but just wonder if you expert
can
suggest what the problems could be.


sam
 
Probably the tuner had an "India Metal" subshield under the cover. You still
may need to remove that shield and resolder not only the pegs that subshield
are attached to but also the feedthru lugs plus any other connection that
may look flakey. Inclusive of some of the coil leads that come thru the pcb.
Yes the design is different than the earlier chassis, and yes, the lousy
ground connections will contaminate the E-Prom data.
"Charlie East" <ceast@bellsouth.net> wrote in message
news:cmM6b.1965$66.383@bignews5.bellsouth.net...
Set came in dead, Found H out shorted, Replaced, checked other componets,
esr elect, resolder driver transformer. Applied power and set came on,
B+139.6 , looked ok. Turned off and unplug for the night, next day set
would
not come on. While checking B+, I let my meter lead slip and blew the
regulator, Replaced it and set came on ok. Turn set off and on
intermittently next two days, 3rd day it would not come on, reg and h out
ok. Unplug and plug in and it came on, Then I noticed I only had a
picture
on ch 3 thru 6(off air signal) Checked Eprom readings ,, 1 thru 20 looks
normal, 21 reads 255, 22 thru 31 look normal, 100 thru 156 read 255, Then
I
noticed that as I scan thru the parm, some of them had changed, A couple
of
them had changed to 127 and a couple changed to 63.
I also took the shield off the tuner, to check the solder, This one is a
little different than the 175/177s that I have seen, Has an extra piece of
metal under the shield, and the solder looked ok. Does this chassis have
the
same tuner problem?
I dont have a chipper checker, so I may be in trouble if I have to change
the Eprom,
Any advice
Thanks Charlie
 
Transformers do not change the frequency, just effective voltage.

Adrian wrote:
Hello,

I've imported an electronic aplliance from Japan
which comes with a charge-adapter. The adapter is
designed for Japanese power (100V/60Hz) and sockets.

I live in Europe and have 230V/50Hz. The charge-adapter
takes 100V @ 60 or 50 Hz. All AC-AC-transformers I've
seen so far here output 110V @ 60 Hz. Am I right
that I can use such transformers for my Japanese equipment ?

The descriptions of the transformers say all "for US appliances",
but in the US you have 120V/60Hz, don't you ? So the
transformers should be suitable for both US and Japanese
appliances to work with as the 110V are in
tolerance for both 100 and 120V ? (But don't probably
can use Japanese appliances with US power, do you ?).

Are Japanese and US wallsocket mechanically identical ?

Thanks,
Adrian
 

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