Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[Graeme]

u1061771156 <u1061771156@csi.com> wrote in message
news:slrnblconv.bq.u1061771156@csi.com...

In article <3f564693$0$23667$65c69314@mercury.nildram.net>, Graeme wrote:
Hi

I've got an old VCR that I thought I'd like to get working, but I think I
need to know the following. On the underside of the drive mechanism there
is
a 4-pin connector which connects between some sort of rotary encoder and
the
main circuit board. The transport is currently in the eject state and I
need
to know what the default setting for the encoder is (I've been just a
little
stupid and removed this without noting how it was aligned). There is an
arrow on the encoder's plastic disc but nothing obvious to line it up
with
on its housing. Any help or pointers would be great. Thanks.

Sounds like a 'K' deck machine.

Newer mode switches have a line marked on the stator. Apparently some
older
ones didn't!

With the deck upside-down, cassette slot towards you (so the loading
motor is towards you and on your left), the triangle on the mode switch
rotor should be at a "2 o'clock" position when the rest of the mechanism
is in the correct position (all alignment marks on other gears line up).

I think for this deck alignment is done in the "cassette loaded" state.

If you're still stumped I have a diagram which I could scan for you.

Mike.

Thanks for the reply. I think a diagram would be excellent if that's
possible. The problem may become harder as it is currently not possible to
put the deck into a "cassette loaded" state. Have you a picture of the
mechanism in the ejected state. Thanks very much.

 

[James Sweet]

"Active8" <mcolasono@earthlink.net.invalid> wrote in message
news:MPG.19bf503fefd10e4f98981c@news.east.earthlink.net...

In article <UKW4b.247032$cF.79109@rwcrnsc53>, jamessweet@hotmail.com
says...
Perhaps they had a loose neutral connection somewhere so that when a
particular appliance came on the line voltage rose.

or a 3-phase appliance with a fault on one phase causing weird stuff.

mike

A 3 phase appliance in a home? I've *never* seen 3 phase power in a home
before, would be nice though.

 

[Goran Larsson]

In article <IxB5b.261331$cF.82597@rwcrnsc53>,
James Sweet <jamessweet@hotmail.com> wrote:

A 3 phase appliance in a home? I've *never* seen 3 phase power in a home
before, would be nice though.

Three phase appliances are very common here in Sweden. Electrical stoves
and washing machines are the most common household three phase appliances.
The rest of the wall sockets and lamp sockets are divided between the
three phases.

--
Göran Larsson http://www.mitt-eget.com/

 

[Arthur Jernberg]

Zur Gud, Jan Cheers A/J
"jack" <jankro@vip.fi> wrote in message
news:N6A5b.2847$ZB4.107@reader1.news.jippii.net...

Thanks, I figured it out. 1600 means 1,6A, since it's the main fuse, it
sounds about correct.

Thanks anyway .

Jan

"Arthur Jernberg" <stubby@comcast.net> wrote in message
newsKWcnSHSvp4UwsuiU-KYvw@comcast.com...
Your best resource may be to try a Canon repair facility or their web
site.
"jack" <jankro@vip.fi> wrote in message
news:xXl5b.2605$ZB4.358@reader1.news.jippii.net...
Greetings,

I have a Micro fuse type D1600 and I cannot find any info on it. It is
a
main fuse on a Canon UC5000 camera. It is a small roud cannister,
almost
like a small capacitor.
Anybody have idea what size fuse this is?

Thanks,

Jan/Finland

 

[John Del]

Subject: Re: Rewinding pc coil for 9-1270 Zenith boards ?? anyone know
inductance? 9-1270-02 9-1270-3 mod# SR3587
From: "Dave Moore"

Now with the coil reworked, it still shuts down on
some really bright scenes, but it has a very much
obvious improvement in tolerance. In fact it might
run for 15 minutes or more.
one.

Oh, one thing I forgot to mention was,
I replaced the Flyback origionally. I ordered the
part from http://www.slelectronics.net/fl.zenith.htm#

Dave, the problem is your replacement generic flyback. Every one I tried did
this, sometimes shutting down as soon as the CRT lit. Basically, one of the
secondary sources off the flyback is too high, I don't remember which one. You
need to fudge this voltage with a dropping resistor, or fudge the shutdown
circuit. The board is actually marked and cut for a shutdown pot that was
never used. It's near the front of the board (away from the flyback). You'll
need a schematic to locate this, but it's an easy mod that will allow the
replacement flys to work properly. BTW, those coils run really hot even when
everything is normal.

John Del
Wolcott, CT

"Nothing is so opportune for tyrants as a people tired of its liberty."
Alan Keyes

(remove S for email reply)

 

[john]

With the KV32XBR10 when the sounds modules needs replacing
and is NLA anymore pull out the Module ...chuck it out .
Jump pins 4 to 14 and 5 to 15 ..you will loose the SAP and also
the SRS ..No big deal ..Done 2 this year already.

kip

--
"Watch the return E-Mail addy its false"
"Arthur Jernberg" <stubby@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:zsKdnamkU-q_G8uiXTWJjw@comcast.com...

Zounds: Time to have it drop kicked or take it to your local service
dealer,
Eh!! If the part indeed is NLA then ask SONY what their recommended fix
is.
We can furnish a plouthera of ideals and never have our hands and
expertise
inside of your particular tele. It is then up to you to do the actual
mechanical and electrical repairs. If not able then it may be time to call
in the profesionals. Not to be a kill joy but enuf is enuf?? At least IMHO
,
Eh?/
"Bill" <elect21st@aol.com> wrote in message
news:8fb59540.0308311512.1606582e@posting.google.com...
I have a Sony KV32XBR10 with sound problems. I'm trying to bypass
SBX1593 which is NLA, but NOBODY seems to know where it is exactly on
this chassis !! Is it similar to SBX1637 which I replaced many times ?
Every time I go back to this set and look around with lights and
magnifier but still can't find it ! I would like to hear from someone
who actually did the bypass and knows for sure. Thanks !

 

[Graeme]

"u1061771156" <u1061771156@csi.com> wrote in message
news:slrnblconv.bq.u1061771156@csi.com...

In article <3f564693$0$23667$65c69314@mercury.nildram.net>, Graeme wrote:
Hi

I've got an old VCR that I thought I'd like to get working, but I think I
need to know the following. On the underside of the drive mechanism there
is
a 4-pin connector which connects between some sort of rotary encoder and
the
main circuit board. The transport is currently in the eject state and I
need
to know what the default setting for the encoder is (I've been just a
little
stupid and removed this without noting how it was aligned). There is an
arrow on the encoder's plastic disc but nothing obvious to line it up
with
on its housing. Any help or pointers would be great. Thanks.

Sounds like a 'K' deck machine.

Newer mode switches have a line marked on the stator. Apparently some
older
ones didn't!

With the deck upside-down, cassette slot towards you (so the loading
motor is towards you and on your left), the triangle on the mode switch
rotor should be at a "2 o'clock" position when the rest of the mechanism
is in the correct position (all alignment marks on other gears line up).

I think for this deck alignment is done in the "cassette loaded" state.

If you're still stumped I have a diagram which I could scan for you.

Mike.

My email is graeme@pikachupark.fsnet.co.uk
TIA

 

[LASERandDVDfan]

Hi, all. I've enjoyed reading this group for some time. I have a Sony
SL-HF900 Super Beta Hi-Fi VCR I'm fixing up for my own use. Some of the
nylon gears in the cassette carriage are broken. I'm pretty sure it's the
same carriage used in all of the late, slim-line Betamax decks.

Pretty much all front load Sony Betamaxes from 1984 to 1990.

Anybody
got a carriage lying around? Or some good gears?

Unfortunately, I don't. The carriage problem you've described is unfortunately
quite common, although it's cause is highly preventable. They tend to break
when people load a cassette too hard into the machine.

This website may be of some assistance in helping you locate the parts or
repair service you'll need.

http://www.betainfoguide.com/

- Reinhart

 

[Tom Del Rosso]

N. Thornton wrote:

Bad neutral connection in the panel, causing the voltage to swing up?

The UK isnt wired like that, so we dont get that problem.

We have center tapped transformers, where the center tap is grounded at
the source. What do you have? Since you use 220-240V I would guess you
don't need a center tap and neither line is grounded.


--
-Reply in group, but if emailing please add two more zeros and delete
the obvious-

 

[Dave Moore]

"John Del" <ohger1s@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20030904073328.20860.00000260@mb-m21.aol.com...

Subject: Re: Rewinding pc coil for 9-1270 Zenith boards ?? anyone know
inductance? 9-1270-02 9-1270-3 mod# SR3587
From: "Dave Moore"

Now with the coil reworked, it still shuts down on
some really bright scenes, but it has a very much
obvious improvement in tolerance. In fact it might
run for 15 minutes or more.
one.

Oh, one thing I forgot to mention was,
I replaced the Flyback origionally. I ordered the
part from http://www.slelectronics.net/fl.zenith.htm#


Dave, the problem is your replacement generic flyback. Every one I tried
did
this, sometimes shutting down as soon as the CRT lit. Basically, one of
the
secondary sources off the flyback is too high, I don't remember which one.
You
need to fudge this voltage with a dropping resistor, or fudge the shutdown
circuit. The board is actually marked and cut for a shutdown pot that was
never used. It's near the front of the board (away from the flyback).
You'll
need a schematic to locate this, but it's an easy mod that will allow the
replacement flys to work properly. BTW, those coils run really hot even
when
everything is normal.

John Del
Wolcott, CT

Ah, thanks John, I really appreciate the info you gave me,
really took a load off my mind,,, this bugger's really been
eatin da' icing off me cake.

I kinda thought that something like that might be
the case, and is the reason I've been trying to get a schematic.
Ron gave me 3 alternative Models that use this board and Zenith
doesn't have a single one of the schematics for any of them!

You just may have saved me $20 as I was about to pay that much
more for a service manual from http://www.servicemanuals.net/service.asp

Now I can probably knock this one out now and just order the
$13 manual from Zenith for myself and suffer the backorder wait.
I'm willing to wait a month,
but my friend with the tv probably wouldn't. Come to think of it,
I guess you saved him $20 since I woulda just passed the charges
on to him anyway.

I'm pretty sure I can find the unused pot and rig something.

Thanks again
=^^=DM

"Nothing is so opportune for tyrants as a people tired of its liberty."
Alan Keyes

(remove S for email reply)

 

[Zak]

Tom Del Rosso wrote:

We have center tapped transformers, where the center tap is grounded at
the source. What do you have? Since you use 220-240V I would guess you
don't need a center tap and neither line is grounded.

In the Netherlands, the usual setup is 3 phase wiring through the
street. Households get one of the phases and neutral, or, if they want,
all three phases.

One phase to ground: 230 volt. 3 phases: 400 volt between phases.

If the neutral gets disconnected at the transformer station voltages can
go way off - higher or lower, depending on load.

Rarely happens though - the cable is under ground and tends to short,
not open.

I guess it is a matter of economics, with population density. At high
densities, a large neighbourhood transformer makes sense and the would
better be 3 phase, with underground cable.

At lower densities, a 2 phase system (especially constructed on poles,
where an extra phase costs labour to install) with a sinmpler 'pole
transfrmer' may make more sense.

BTW the clamps used to take power off the underground aluminum cables
are nice - a kind of vampire tap, with serrated metal pieces cutting
through the insulation of the (powered) cable. On which the household
side connection is attached, and the whole cast in resin.


Thomas

 

[Jerry G.]

Check power supply voltage outputs, check for the presents of scan
drives, and voltages to the scan circuits to start with.

--

Greetings,

Jerry Greenberg GLG Technologies GLG
==============================================
WebPage http://www.zoom-one.com
Electronics http://www.zoom-one.com/electron.htm
Instruments http://www.zoom-one.com/glgtech.htm
==============================================
"Boris" <boris@fuse.net> wrote in message
news:3f579d67$0$52140$a0465688@nnrp.fuse.net...
I have a Magnavox HD2632 with HV shutdown.
Any suggestions?

 

[John Del]

Subject: Re: Rewinding pc coil for 9-1270 Zenith boards ?? anyone know
inductance? 9-1270-02 9-1270-3 mod# SR3587
From: "Dave Moore"

Now I can probably knock this one out now and just order the
$13 manual from Zenith for myself and suffer the backorder wait.
I'm willing to wait a month,
but my friend with the tv probably wouldn't. Come to think of it,
I guess you saved him $20 since I woulda just passed the charges
on to him anyway.

I'm pretty sure I can find the unused pot and rig something.

Thanks again
=^^=DM

I remember a diode that you can cut out that will prevent the shutdown
entirely. I'll see if I wrote it down at work. If I can give you the board
location, you can fudge some resistor values (you don't need to add the pot).

John Del
Wolcott, CT

"Nothing is so opportune for tyrants as a people tired of its liberty."
Alan Keyes

(remove S for email reply)

 

[Jeff]

Perhaps you can locate or already have a service manual. I was surprised to
find out that lots of plastic was recently available for one of my old
SLV-R5UC's (I know it's not Beta) but it's still 10 years old .

Enter the part numbers into the sony parts web site and see. Sorry if you
already have found out they are discontinued.

Good Luck,
Jeff

Thanks. I checked it out. They had repair services but no parts. So, I'm
still looking for a carriage or some gears. There must be something out
there somewhere...

Any help is much appreciated.

Michael

 

[john]

Those 2 parts come with the RCA replacement IHVT.

kip

--
"Watch the return E-Mail addy its false"
"William Buchholz" <wmbuchholz@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:6a6f10fa.0309042232.39544d29@posting.google.com...

I am replacing the flyback transformer on an RCA F36683ET (chassis
CTC197CE2). I don't have a service manual but I understand that both
a resistor and capacitor have to be replaced at the same time or it
wont work. I need the location and values on those two components.
Thanks

 

[Sam Goldwasser]

jason.mangiafico@verizon.net (JM) writes:

Hello, I have here Nidec alpha V, TA300 ac cooling fan, which is close to two
years old. What happened is the fan blades part has separated from the coil
part. I took a pic. Any ideas on what would cause this? Is this common
with these fans? Is it better to replace it with another brand?

http://members.verizon.net/~vze2p7s3/fan.jpg

Looks like the little clip or washer that keeps the blade part from coming
off the shaft has come loose. It will be accessible after the lable or plug
on the other side is removed. May be best to just buy a new fan though.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ Home Page: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Site Info: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: The email address in this message header may no longer work. To
contact me, please use the Feedback Form at repairfaq.org. Thanks.

 

[Jerry G.]

This looks like the blue gun in the CRT may be shorted, or some
components failed in the video drive circuits to the CRT causing it to
be biased incorrectly. The CRT being shorted is the most common cause
of this.

The drives to the CRT are verified by measuring the DC biases to the CRT
guns on its various elements, and then checking the video signal drive
to the grids and or cathodes.

As for using parts from an older TV, if it is not the exact same model,
chances are the part types are not compatible, except for some of the
generic parts. .

--

Greetings,

Jerry Greenberg GLG Technologies GLG
==============================================
WebPage http://www.zoom-one.com
Electronics http://www.zoom-one.com/electron.htm
Instruments http://www.zoom-one.com/glgtech.htm
==============================================
"playoff" <playoff@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:96993112.0309050320.1796a5e9@posting.google.com...
Dear Sir,

I would like to know what happened to my tv.
Everytime I switch on, the screen color will become darker and there
are a lots of lines appear. I have took photos using my digital
camera. Please have a look. I am wondering can I fix it myself or any
economy method to fix the problem.
I have another old tv which hopefully I can get some parts from there.
Thank you very much.
Your time is appreciate.

Here are the photos
http://www.143.cn/tv1.jpg
http://www.143.cn/tv2.jpg

 

[Laurence Payne]

In the Netherlands, the usual setup is 3 phase wiring through the
street. Households get one of the phases and neutral, or, if they want,
all three phases.

Same here in UK, in my street anyway.
3 phases buried in the street. Each house gets one of them.

Watched a bad joint being replaced recently. The isolation box at the
end of the street had jumpers sitting in a wooden frame. Very
Victorian

 

[LASERandDVDfan]

Thanks. I checked it out. They had repair services but no parts. So, I'm
still looking for a carriage or some gears. There must be something out
there somewhere...

Any help is much appreciated.

Another thing you can try is to look on eBay for any non-functioning Sony
Betamax decks with anything but a broken loader. Be sure to get one that was
made between 1985 to 1989 to ensure that you will get a deck that has the kind
of loading carriage assembly you need. It doesn't have to be the same model;
just something like a broken SL-100 will work. For cosmetics, you may want to
change the carriage door so the machine will look just like it did before it
broke. - Reinhart

 

[William Buchholz]

I looked everywhere inside the package and all I have is the
transformer itself. I guess I will have to phone Thompson about this.
"john" <va3mmTAKEOUTTHIS@niagara.com> wrote in message news:<newscache$r0lqkh$qzn$1@newsfeed.niagara.com>...

Those 2 parts come with the RCA replacement IHVT.

kip

--
"Watch the return E-Mail addy its false"
"William Buchholz" <wmbuchholz@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:6a6f10fa.0309042232.39544d29@posting.google.com...
I am replacing the flyback transformer on an RCA F36683ET (chassis
CTC197CE2). I don't have a service manual but I understand that both
a resistor and capacitor have to be replaced at the same time or it
wont work. I need the location and values on those two components.
Thanks