Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[Harry Bilotto]

Ok, here's an update: complete resolder of main board & have checked all
caps & diodes & have found no other problems. The set will run perfectly for
3 to 5 minutes the take out R607,Q601 & Q602. No degradation of picture of
sound quality before failure. In Jeff's reply he mentioned the use of Sony
only replacement parts. I would use Sony parts after I was sure I found the
root cause of the failure, since they are relatively expensive. My choice of
replacement transistor was the NTE2582, figuring if the set would play for a
few hours and was convinced all was ok I would go back and replace with Sony
components. I cannot seem to find any other problems on this board. Could
this problem be caused by a flyback going bad when it gets hot?? If so,
would I expect to see the picture change just before failure?? Could I be
shooting myself in the foot by using NTE replacements and their failing??
Even if they were inferior, shouldn't I expect at least a few hours of play
as opposed to minutes, or am I still missing the root cause of the failure??
Thanks,
Harry


"Leonard G. Caillouet" <lcaillo_ns_@devoynet.com> wrote in message
news:HK7_a.4248$rh1.3019@fe04.atl2.webusenet.com...

I fix dozens of these power supplies with Shindingen transistors that are
the same as the Sony transistors for less than 20% of the cost of those
supplied by Sony. I have no recalls unless I miss a related part like a
bad
cap or leaky diode. The VDRs are another matter and should be the
original
Sony part, unless someone knows of another source for the identical part.
The key to fixing these supplies is to understand why the failure
occurred,
how they work, and solve the root cause of the failure. Much can be found
on these power supplies online. The bottom line is that you have to be
knowledgable, do your homework and test thoroughly. Other than a few
specific cases, the idea that you can only use Sony supplied parts is
largely a myth.

Leonard Caillouet

"Jeff Soergel" <jssoergel@att.net> wrote in message
news:7K7_a.95904$3o3.6666057@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
Make sure you use Sony original parts. Non Sony's can work for a short
time
and then blow. You can call Fulton Radio to order Sony service manuals
and
parts.


"Harry B." <harry007x1@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:ZMWZa.5682$Ih1.1809374@newssrv26.news.prodigy.com...
My Sony KV27V55 has quit!! While watching the TV the screen suddenly
started
to shrink from the right side. About 10 seconds after this started,
the
set
turned off. I found Q601 & Q602 in the switchmode PS shorted as well
as
an
open R607. I replaced those components as well as VDR601,602 & 603.
Also,
just to be safe replaced the H.O.T. The set powered-up and ran great
for
about 10 minuted and quit. Again Q601 & 602 & R607 failed. Obviously,
I
did
not find the root cause of the initial failure. I sure could use some
suggestions from someone who knows these sets. Also schematics would
be
of
great help.
Thanks in advance,
Harry

 

[Leonard G. Caillouet]

A very good supplier that has this (and thousands more semi specs) is B&D
Enterprises
www.bdent.com

I would strongly suggest that you get a service manual. This power supply
can be a PITA. Not acting right can mean a lot. If you want help you will
have to be more specific.

Leonard Caillouet


<ozzyman1@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:3F424B03.7BD90844@sbcglobal.net...

Replaced this regulator in JVC model AV-27050. Still not acting right,
but do not have
any specs on STRF6626. Have looked everywhere, but can't locate same.
Could
someone please advise me accordingly?
T.I.A.
Jim

 

[Mike Berger]

Only useless with a useless operating system -- they work fine with the
Macintosh.

RWatson767 wrote:

I have several IIIs and the carridges are useless if you use windows, that most
of us are stuck with. The cartridges were simply an addition to the internal
fonts of the II & III. Nice but useless.

 

[Winfield Hill]

GPE wrote...

... I love the idea of optical isolation between the
digital logic and high voltage section.

Why? If the power supplies are tied together, what's
the motivation? To avoid using an inexpensive reliable
high-voltage transistor? Perhaps that's a good reason
for one or two switches, but for very many switches, or
for any mass production it's just wasted money. >

Thanks,
- Win

 

[john]

You are lucky to have those NTE,s last that long,get the real ones.
kip

--
"Watch the return E-Mail addy its false"
"Harry Bilotto" <harry007x1@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:2Lr0b.9368$Ih1.3490313@newssrv26.news.prodigy.com...

Ok, here's an update: complete resolder of main board & have checked all
caps & diodes & have found no other problems. The set will run perfectly
for
3 to 5 minutes the take out R607,Q601 & Q602. No degradation of picture of
sound quality before failure. In Jeff's reply he mentioned the use of Sony
only replacement parts. I would use Sony parts after I was sure I found
the
root cause of the failure, since they are relatively expensive. My choice
of
replacement transistor was the NTE2582, figuring if the set would play for
a
few hours and was convinced all was ok I would go back and replace with
Sony
components. I cannot seem to find any other problems on this board. Could
this problem be caused by a flyback going bad when it gets hot?? If so,
would I expect to see the picture change just before failure?? Could I be
shooting myself in the foot by using NTE replacements and their failing??
Even if they were inferior, shouldn't I expect at least a few hours of
play
as opposed to minutes, or am I still missing the root cause of the
failure??
Thanks,
Harry


"Leonard G. Caillouet" <lcaillo_ns_@devoynet.com> wrote in message
news:HK7_a.4248$rh1.3019@fe04.atl2.webusenet.com...
I fix dozens of these power supplies with Shindingen transistors that
are
the same as the Sony transistors for less than 20% of the cost of those
supplied by Sony. I have no recalls unless I miss a related part like a
bad
cap or leaky diode. The VDRs are another matter and should be the
original
Sony part, unless someone knows of another source for the identical
part.
The key to fixing these supplies is to understand why the failure
occurred,
how they work, and solve the root cause of the failure. Much can be
found
on these power supplies online. The bottom line is that you have to be
knowledgable, do your homework and test thoroughly. Other than a few
specific cases, the idea that you can only use Sony supplied parts is
largely a myth.

Leonard Caillouet

"Jeff Soergel" <jssoergel@att.net> wrote in message
news:7K7_a.95904$3o3.6666057@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
Make sure you use Sony original parts. Non Sony's can work for a
short
time
and then blow. You can call Fulton Radio to order Sony service
manuals
and
parts.


"Harry B." <harry007x1@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:ZMWZa.5682$Ih1.1809374@newssrv26.news.prodigy.com...
My Sony KV27V55 has quit!! While watching the TV the screen suddenly
started
to shrink from the right side. About 10 seconds after this started,
the
set
turned off. I found Q601 & Q602 in the switchmode PS shorted as well
as
an
open R607. I replaced those components as well as VDR601,602 & 603.
Also,
just to be safe replaced the H.O.T. The set powered-up and ran great
for
about 10 minuted and quit. Again Q601 & 602 & R607 failed.
Obviously,
I
did
not find the root cause of the initial failure. I sure could use
some
suggestions from someone who knows these sets. Also schematics would
be
of
great help.
Thanks in advance,
Harry

 

[duncan idaho]

baladoum@aol.com (duncan idaho) wrote in message news:<2d6cb6a8.0308151219.4e1747c7@posting.google.com>...

hi

i have problem with a panasonic tc24w1f tv :

No start up.
Noise at the level of the power supply transformer

any idea ?
where can find a diagram of the tv ?

thank u
any idea

 

[Dieter Wiedmann]

ozzyman1@sbcglobal.net schrieb:

Replaced this regulator in JVC model AV-27050. Still not acting right,
but do not have
any specs on STRF6626. Have looked everywhere, but can't locate same.
Could
someone please advise me accordingly?

http://rv6llh.rsuh.ru/PDF/STR-F6600series.pdf


Regards,
Dieter

 

[Yianni]

The MB104i4c uses 5 pins (2 for the led and other 3). The MOC 3021
uses only 4 of the 6 pins.

I could add that the triac or thyristor is the KT207i400. I suspect is a
thyristor because the gate is the middle pin (TO-220). Also the
heater remains always on.

Any help to determine these two parts.

--

Yianni
in@9mailbox.gr (remove number nine to reply)




--
"Rheilly Phoull" <Rheilly@bigpond.com.au> wrote in message
news:bhsrt8$2povj$1@ID-151145.news.uni-berlin.de...

You could try a MOC 3021 which should be cheap enough.

--
Regards ............... Rheilly Phoull

"Yianni" <in9@mailbox.gr> wrote in message
news:1061238052.966770@athprx02...
In my ultrasonic cleaning machine the optocoupler MB104i4c is burned. It
drives directly a thyristor that controls a 500W/230V heater resistance.
Does anyone know which equivalent to use? I couldn't find the above code
anywhere.
Thanks in advance.

--

Yianni
in@9mailbox.gr (remove number nine to reply)

--

 

[David]

125 is the correct voltage. As I recall there is a low ohmage resistor on
the bottom side of the str that goes off value. Something like 0.18 ohms
and its value is absolutely critical. You will also have some high esr
capacitors in the power supply that will cause this, get out the ESR meter
and do a complete check in both the primary and secondary.

The overvoltage is why the 130v diode failed in the first place, they
usually start conducting at 130 volts give 10% or so.

David

Jim Martz <jmartz@maplemountain.com> wrote in message
news:2cc1de6f.0308190539.10e5c06a@posting.google.com...

Hi all,

I am working on an Emerson TV
modeL# ts3050D

The set was dead.
I had replaces a shorted avalanche
diode(130v), across the B+.
The STR50041 regulator.
Also had found a 47uf cap. open in
the hot side of the PS.

After replaceing these the set powered
up, but the B+ was reading 134v, but
printed on the board is 125v, also
one would exspect it to be less then
the avalanche diode voltage(130v) ??

So, I replaced the 2sA1706 driver and
a 1ohm resistor as well as the STR50041
again. Also, tested ever part in the PS,
and every thing seems to test good.
BUT, still the same 134v ???

I do not have any info on the str50041,
other then a pinout, and that it is a
41.8 volt regulator. Also I am reading
about -42 volts on the "-sence" pin,
so that would seem to be regulating.

I am not sure what the problem is.
I don't like this kind of PS, there is
no direct feedback from the seconary
side of the ps, unlike most that use
an optocupler. It seems to have its own
winding just for the senceing voltage,
and that seems to be the right voltage.

At this point, is it likelt that there
is some shorted turns on the sence
voltage winding ??
Is the Avalanche diode used to regulate
the voltage, not to protect the PS ??
If so, why would they print 125v on the
board, if that is not the correct voltage ??
What should the B+ really be anyway ???

Thanks for any help,
Jim Martz
jmartz@maplemountain.com

 

[Tony Williams]

In article <P0h0b.19590$0u4.2904@news1.central.cox.net>,
GPE <GPE@Cox.net> wrote:

Hi Winfield & Tony,

I've tried the SSR method -- unfortunately the delay was
unbearable. The negative voltage I was switching was providing
digit drive biasing for a set of displays. For the segment drive
- there was another transistor array -- UDN6118A's. I found that
using the SSR method to be quite small, few components required
and worked great - except they were too slow in turnoff speed.
By the time the digit was turning off -- the segment driver was
well into next digit providing a ghosting affect. Only way to
fix was stiffer pullup on output of SSR but had no room for
additional large resistors.

Could you reverse the logic, making the slow off-going
of the photoMOS do the on-going of a transistor?


--+----------------+-- 0V
| |
\ |
/ [LOAD]
\ |
| |
| |
| |/
+--------------|NPN
| |\e
[photoMOS] |
| |
+----------------+--- -180V

Allows a cheaper low-voltage photoMOS.

--
Tony Williams.

 

[techforce]

Are there any Mfr Logos on the Parts to help know who makes them?



"Yianni" <in9@mailbox.gr> wrote in message
news:1061339927.188165@athprx02...

The MB104i4c uses 5 pins (2 for the led and other 3). The MOC 3021
uses only 4 of the 6 pins.

I could add that the triac or thyristor is the KT207i400. I suspect is a
thyristor because the gate is the middle pin (TO-220). Also the
heater remains always on.

Any help to determine these two parts.

--

Yianni
in@9mailbox.gr (remove number nine to reply)




--
"Rheilly Phoull" <Rheilly@bigpond.com.au> wrote in message
news:bhsrt8$2povj$1@ID-151145.news.uni-berlin.de...
You could try a MOC 3021 which should be cheap enough.

--
Regards ............... Rheilly Phoull

"Yianni" <in9@mailbox.gr> wrote in message
news:1061238052.966770@athprx02...
In my ultrasonic cleaning machine the optocoupler MB104i4c is burned.
It
drives directly a thyristor that controls a 500W/230V heater
resistance.
Does anyone know which equivalent to use? I couldn't find the above
code
anywhere.
Thanks in advance.

--

Yianni
in@9mailbox.gr (remove number nine to reply)

--

 

[Patch]

"glasnostJDC" <JDC@(NO SPAM)cnyconnect.net> wrote in message
news:_nP0b.1247$IY5.588@fe01.atl2.webusenet.com...

Hello, I have a Zenith Sentry 2 model sj2063s5 that I picked up for
free. I've repaired monitor's and TV's before but nothing so far with this
problem. If I leave the TV off for a day when I turn it on it shows a good
picture for about 30 seconds, then horizontal lines of distrotion distort
the picture (look like this:
---___________
---___________
---___________
there distrotions of the image being put on screen) and any graghic menus.
There is a high pitched noise from the unit, If I turn it right back on
the
picture still has distrotion. I did a light hit test for joints and it
didn't affect it, I still have to go through and check joints (will do
soon). If I'm right this is a problem in the verticle circuit of this TV?
Really all I'm woundering is a direction to go and any one who may have
had
a similar problem with this unit. I've not found exactly this problem on a
group search through google. Any help and information would be great and
I
thank all who reply.
--
-glasnostJDC


Sounds like the Horizontal oscillator is going off frequency. Most likely
a bad electrolytic cap. If you have an ESR meter you might be able to locate

it.

 

[David]

Has been addressed many times here. Do a Google groups search for
horizontal sawtooth and Zenith (possibly search by chassis or module
number). C2212 maybe? a 22uf on the 9v line to the jungle ic.

Of if it is really bright, the classic way the Zenith tubes short
internally.

A specific chassis number and year of manufacture will help a lot in
narrowing down other possibilities. Model numbers mean very little
for tv repair.

David

"glasnostJDC" <JDC@(NO SPAM)cnyconnect.net> wrote in message news:<_nP0b.1247$IY5.588@fe01.atl2.webusenet.com>...

Hello, I have a Zenith Sentry 2 model sj2063s5 that I picked up for
free. I've repaired monitor's and TV's before but nothing so far with this
problem. If I leave the TV off for a day when I turn it on it shows a good
picture for about 30 seconds, then horizontal lines of distrotion distort
the picture (look like this:
---___________
---___________
---___________
there distrotions of the image being put on screen) and any graghic menus.
There is a high pitched noise from the unit, If I turn it right back on the
picture still has distrotion. I did a light hit test for joints and it
didn't affect it, I still have to go through and check joints (will do
soon). If I'm right this is a problem in the verticle circuit of this TV?
Really all I'm woundering is a direction to go and any one who may have had
a similar problem with this unit. I've not found exactly this problem on a
group search through google. Any help and information would be great and I
thank all who reply.

 

[Martin Riddle]

Look into the 5 or 10mb opto isolators. HP has a few, some logic level powered and a few higher
voltage powered.
fast propagation, and rise/fall times.

Cheers

"GPE" <GPE@Cox.net> wrote in message news0h0b.19590$0u4.2904@news1.central.cox.net...

Hi Winfield & Tony,

I've tried the SSR method -- unfortunately the delay was unbearable. The
negative voltage I was switching was providing digit drive biasing for a set
of displays. For the segment drive - there was another transistor array --
UDN6118A's. I found that using the SSR method to be quite small, few
components required and worked great - except they were too slow in turnoff
speed. By the time the digit was turning off -- the segment driver was well
into next digit providing a ghosting affect. Only way to fix was stiffer
pullup on output of SSR but had no room for additional large resistors.

I'm looking back into Winfield's dual transistor architecture - that looks
the way to go. Also - another poster mentioned using faster photo diodes -
quite intriguing. Haven't looked into it yet - but I will. I love the idea
of optical isolation between the digital logic and high voltage section.

Thanks,
Ed

"Winfield Hill" <whill@picovolt.com> wrote in message
news:bhqgh602qou@drn.newsguy.com...
Tony Williams wrote...

Might be worth looking at a photoMOS SSR as well,
perhaps the NAIS AVQ-series.

GPE wrote...

Speed is another factor. Must be quick turnon and
turnoff. Unit turned on every 16mS with a 1mS 'on'
duration.

Yes, I'm a fan of the AVQ series and others made by
Aromat / NAiS, and I keep a good inventory. For me
their advantage is simplicity, just power up the LED
and off you go, or should I say, on you go. :&gt

But they do have a few problems. First, they're
slow, having a 0.1 to 0.6ms delay when turning on or
off. If GPE doesn't need a precise 1ms pulse, or care
too much about delay, a part like the AQV214 (400V,
120mA) or AQV216 (600V, 50mA) could work well for him.

Another issue I sometimes struggle with is LED drive
current. GPE might need an emitter follower to get
the recommended 5mA to operate the AQV's LED from his
wimpy 4000 series CMOS logic (4543) running on 5V.

Self capacitance is an issue, the AQV214 has 45pF typ.
Higher current parts in the series have over 150pF.

There's also cost, if the isolation capability isn't
required, the $4 to $5 price isn't very attractive.

Thanks,
- Win

 

[David]

So please give more details. Which is brighter? Is one too bright or too
dark?
That set may have a limited service menu, early Zenith service menus did
have eeprom value settings for rf brightness and video brightness.

If the video input is low, you could have a weak capacitor in the video
path. Too weak and the picture will roll.

David

glasnostJDC <JDC@(NO SPAM)cnyconnect.net> wrote in message
news:fZU0b.2342$IY5.737@fe01.atl2.webusenet.com...

Oh for starters the modual number is 9-1118 and was made August 1991
the chassis I've read is the same as the model # for this series? I tryed
to
find it any way but no such luck. My last major problem is brightness
differences between line level and coax inputs. Any suggestions? The
capacitor was the fix (C2212) for my posted problem. But for this
brightness difference problem I'm not sure, I've seen something posted
before but it was all dead ends. I've got a couple of work arounds but I
want to know if there is a knowen componant or componants that break down
that cause that problem. Any help would be great and thanks to all agian
who
have helped this far.

-glasnostJDC

"David" <dkuhajda@locl.net> wrote in message
news:68f82f5b.0308201346.2b157db2@posting.google.com...
Has been addressed many times here. Do a Google groups search for
horizontal sawtooth and Zenith (possibly search by chassis or module
number). C2212 maybe? a 22uf on the 9v line to the jungle ic.

Of if it is really bright, the classic way the Zenith tubes short
internally.

A specific chassis number and year of manufacture will help a lot in
narrowing down other possibilities. Model numbers mean very little
for tv repair.

David

"glasnostJDC" <JDC@(NO SPAM)cnyconnect.net> wrote in message
news:<_nP0b.1247$IY5.588@fe01.atl2.webusenet.com>...
Hello, I have a Zenith Sentry 2 model sj2063s5 that I picked up for
free. I've repaired monitor's and TV's before but nothing so far with
this
problem. If I leave the TV off for a day when I turn it on it shows a
good
picture for about 30 seconds, then horizontal lines of distrotion
distort
the picture (look like this:
---___________
---___________
---___________
there distrotions of the image being put on screen) and any graghic
menus.
There is a high pitched noise from the unit, If I turn it right back
on
the
picture still has distrotion. I did a light hit test for joints and it
didn't affect it, I still have to go through and check joints (will do
soon). If I'm right this is a problem in the verticle circuit of this
TV?
Really all I'm woundering is a direction to go and any one who may
have
had
a similar problem with this unit. I've not found exactly this problem
on
a
group search through google. Any help and information would be great
and I
thank all who reply.

 

[Winfield Hill]

Tony Williams wrote...

GPE <GPE@Cox.net> wrote:

I've tried the SSR method -- unfortunately the delay was
unbearable. ...

Could you reverse the logic, making the slow off-going
of the photoMOS do the on-going of a transistor?


--+----------------+-- 0V
| |
\ [LOAD]
/ |
\ |
| |/
+--------------|NPN
| |\e
[photoMOS] |
| |
+----------------+--- -180V

Allows a cheaper low-voltage photoMOS.

Better yet, with one more resistor, allows using a very
inexpensive phototransistor instead of a photoMOS.

Thanks,
- Win

 

[AB]

On Wed, 20 Aug 2003 22:02:18 GMT, "Martin Riddle"
<martinriddle@hotmail.com> wrote:

Look into the 5 or 10mb opto isolators. HP has a few, some logic level powered and a few higher
voltage powered.
fast propagation, and rise/fall times.

I looked at HP about a month ago. They use alot of power and they do
not do high voltage (although they isolate at respectable voltages,
they cannot switch high voltages on and off). I think I saw a 60v
rated unit, but that was about as high as they got.

Can you give a part number for higher voltage rated HP opto's???

Thanks,

AB

 

[Winfield Hill]

Winfield Hill wrote...

Tony Williams wrote...
GPE <GPE@Cox.net> wrote:

I've tried the SSR method -- unfortunately the delay
was unbearable. ...

Could you reverse the logic, making the slow off-going
of the photoMOS do the on-going of a transistor?


--+----------------+-- 0V
| |
\ [LOAD]
/ |
\ |
| |/
+--------------|NPN
| |\e
[photoMOS] |
| |
+----------------+--- -180V

Allows a cheaper low-voltage photoMOS.

Better yet, with one more resistor, allows using a very
inexpensive phototransistor instead of a photoMOS.

GPE's application is driving the individual segments of
digital displays, so he'll need many HV drivers. Some
phototransistor optoisolator are quite inexpensive, e.g.
the PS2501-4 is a quad part in a 16-pin DIP for less than
$1.25 qty 10, or under 30 cents per segment. (I still
find a high-voltage transistor driver more appealing.)

Actually, forget the extra resistor I suggested, because
no biasing of the phototransistor's base photodiode is
necessary. The photodiode, shown as PD below, operates
correctly even with its collector saturated at 200mV,
etc., and the PS2501 still has a typical gain of 1.0

.. ------+---------+-- 0V
.. | |
.. R1 [LOAD]
.. 100k |
.. PS2501 | |/
.. ,-------+-------|NPN
.. -> _|_ | |\e
.. -> /_\ PD | |
.. -> | |/ |
.. '-----| |
.. |\e |
.. | |
.. -----+---------+--- -180V

R1 = 100k for 1mA bias in a -100V nominal system.

Thanks,
- Win

 

[Winfield Hill]

Winfield Hill wrote...

GPE's application is driving the individual segments of
digital displays, so he'll need many HV drivers. Some
phototransistor optoisolator are quite inexpensive, e.g.
the PS2501-4 is a quad part in a 16-pin DIP for less than
$1.25 qty 10, or under 30 cents per segment. (I still
find a high-voltage transistor driver more appealing.)

The photodiode, shown as PD below, operates correctly
even with its collector saturated at 200mV, etc., and
the PS2501 still has a typical gain of 1.0

.. ------+---------+-- 0V

.. | |
.. R1 [LOAD]
.. 330k |
.. | |
.. PS2501 | |/ MPSA42
.. ,-------+-------| NPN
.. -> _|_ | |\e
.. -> /_\ PD | |
.. -> | |/ |
.. '-----| |
.. |\e |
.. | |
.. -----+---------+--- -180V

Rethinking, GPE has less than 1mA available from his
logic outputs, and the PS2501's current-transfer ratio
can be as poor as 40% at low collector currents, so
R1 = 330k for a 300uA optoisolator operating current,
with 750uA LED drive would be better. An MPSA42 has a
Ccb of about 1pF, so a reasonably-fast switching speed
should still be possible.

Thanks,
- Win

 

[Don ßailey]

"Sam Goldwasser" <sam@saul.cis.upenn.edu> wrote in message
news:6wisos3oze.fsf@saul.cis.upenn.edu...

"George R. Gonzalez" <grg@umn.edu> writes:

1N4007 is *much* more likely. These are black plastic,
about the size of a grain of rice.

Or, 1N47something zeners. The printing is on two lines.

Yea, I think it did have another line. I figured 1n47 was it.

The screen printing on the board designates them as Z1 and Z2 so,
they very well could be zeners.

I'll check when I get home.

Thanks guys.

db

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