Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[David]

Sony did sell a color set that had no aperature grille or shadow mask in a
small, like 3.5" size portable. A real pain to work on when the beam
control circuits are messed up. The circuitry controlled by a special
timing/sense which color intensity was being sent to the beam depending on
where the beam was landing.

Looked kind of cool seeing the three color strips on the tube.

David

Andy Cuffe <baltimora@psu.edu> wrote in message
news:3F4053EE.684A@psu.edu...

William R. Walsh wrote:

Hello group...

I picked up a Sony Watchman TV (model FD-230) at a garage sale a short
while
back. It is a nice little set that works excellently, apart from the
volume
level being a bit low for my liking...

One thing I do wonder about is how it works. I figured that the set used
one
of the small CRTs not unlike that which is found in some older video
camera
viewfinders. This does not seem to be the case. I see that the "screen"
(set
below some clear plastic for protection) is slightly slanted and it
appears
that something in the "bottom" of the set projects on to that screen.
The
picture comes up almost instantly, which I am sure rules out any sort of
a
CRT display...

Does anyone know how this set works and if any color display models were
made using similar technology?

William


It is a CRT, but it must have a small cathode that heats up quickly.
It's hard to describe, but should be obvious if you decide to open it.
The electron gun is mounted horizontally in the set and scans the screen
which is angled at roughly 45 deg. You're looking at the same side of
the screen that the electron gun scans. I've read there was a color
version of this CRT that used something called beam indexing, but I
don't think it was ever used in a TV. If you're curious how this works,
there are some good posts explaining it. Do a google groups search and
you should find something.
--
Andy Cuffe
baltimora@psu.edu

 

[Tony Williams]

In article <bhp09b01fbp@drn.newsguy.com>,
Winfield Hill <whill@picovolt.com> wrote:

If I understand your problem, a circuit like this should work,

. 5V logic
. in --- R1 ----, gnd
. 4.3k | |
. |/V Q1 LOAD
. ,----| MPSA92 |
. | |\ ,--o --'
. gnd | |
. | |
. | |--' Q2
. +----||<-, VN0550
. | |--|
. R2 |
. 8.2k |
. | |
. -180V -------+--------+-----
[snip]

Might be worth looking at a photoMOS SSR as well,
perhaps the NAIS AVQ-series.

--
Tony Williams.

 

[Winfield Hill]

Tony Williams wrote...

Might be worth looking at a photoMOS SSR as well,
perhaps the NAIS AVQ-series.

GPE wrote...

Speed is another factor. Must be quick turnon and
turnoff. Unit turned on every 16mS with a 1mS 'on'
duration.

Yes, I'm a fan of the AVQ series and others made by
Aromat / NAiS, and I keep a good inventory. For me
their advantage is simplicity, just power up the LED
and off you go, or should I say, on you go. :&gt

But they do have a few problems. First, they're
slow, having a 0.1 to 0.6ms delay when turning on or
off. If GPE doesn't need a precise 1ms pulse, or care
too much about delay, a part like the AQV214 (400V,
120mA) or AQV216 (600V, 50mA) could work well for him.

Another issue I sometimes struggle with is LED drive
current. GPE might need an emitter follower to get
the recommended 5mA to operate the AQV's LED from his
wimpy 4000 series CMOS logic (4543) running on 5V.

Self capacitance is an issue, the AQV214 has 45pF typ.
Higher current parts in the series have over 150pF.

There's also cost, if the isolation capability isn't
required, the $4 to $5 price isn't very attractive.

Thanks,
- Win

 

[Joe Leung]

I really need someone expert in electronics.


"Joe Leung" <alpha7-NoSpam-@163.net> Đ´ČëĎűϢĐÂÎĹ:...

I recently replace my IBM Thinkpad A22m Li-ion battery with some high cap
cells (2200mA each), But the battery is "smart enough to report the old
readings from the battery circuit, i.e. Manufacturer, Dtae, Serial,
Designed
Cap, remaining cap, cycleing count, etc.

Anyone have any idea to "reset" or reprogram the battery. I am really
disappointed with what the laptop makers are doing to us, make batterys
that
last for months. p.s. the old cells are still in pretty good shape, just
don't preform well when placed inside the battery case with the "smart
circuit"!

thx

alpha7

 

[Jim Yanik]

u1061771156@csi.com (u1061771156) wrote in
news:slrnbjvtl0.j3.u1061771156@csi.com:

In article <Xns93D8E9CDD4E91jyanikkuanet@204.117.192.21>, Jim Yanik
wrote:

It may just need a complete calibration.Recommended once a year.
They do not stay calibrated indefinitely.
Jim Yanik

Thanks Jim. I admit I'm surprised it would hang as a result of being a
bit out of cal (failing the test would be fair game).

Anyway, much to my surprise, several hours later (after posting) the
display came up with a screen of randomish trace. Still no response to
any controls, however powering it off and on again has made it come
back normal. Weird. It passed all tests (and an internal cal) and
seems fully OK.

As you'd mentioned the battery, I did check that (it's on the
underside one of the two PCBs on the top) and got 3.6V. I guess it's a
rechargable lithium one (it lists mAh on the top of it), maybe it had
just completely run down? I only use this scope intermittently so it's
had months off. I notice there is also a 1F Gold Cap in there (a much
classier one than the cheap ones I've seen dead in VCRs!) and that
seemed OK too (about 4.5V on it). Why both a battery and a cap? Do you
know what is retained by each?

Regards,
Mike.

OK,I don't have much experience with the 2430 scope,but the battery is NOT
a rechargeable one.The cap is there to hold the memory,and is charged by
scope internal PS,but the battery is there for when the scope is off for
long periods.You may still need a complete cal,not just an 'internal
cal'.Some lithium cells have a 10 year 'standby' lifetime,but I'd check the
date code on the battery if you can. Probably YYWW,like 8644(1986,wk 44)

--
Jim Yanik,NRA member
remove null to contact me

 

[Lee Blaver]

Joe Leung wrote:

I really need someone expert in electronics.


Anyone have any idea to "reset" or reprogram the battery.

This link was posted on SER repair a while back:
http://sweb.cz/Frantisek.Rysanek/battery.html

Might help, but it looks like you'd need to do some work yourself
to use it...

Lee


--
To reply use lee.blaver and NTL world com

 

[Mike Berger]

I'm pretty sure there's no backplane light behind the CRT.

"Jerry G." wrote:

The backplane light, or the ballast transformer for it may be going
defective. On some displays these parts are replicable if able to be
purchased from the manufacture.

 

[Mike Berger]

You should try better power conditioning, in that case. I find monitor
failures to be very rare and still have several 10+ year old monitors that
I use for service, with pictures almost as good as when they were knew.

One of our three Sony GDM17SE1 monitors finally failed, but I used
some of the parts to convert a Silicon Graphics monitor of the same
basic chassis and vintage to separate-sync a few months ago.

I use a Square D whole-house power line filter/surge protector, and APC
SmartUPS's on most equipment.

We buy Sony, NEC, and the occasional ViewSonic. They all have excellent
longevity. The Mags we bought a few years ago are pretty much all ready for
the trash just because the image was never very good, even when new.

"Robert L. Bass" wrote:

Three years is about all I expect from a monitor. By that time they all
seem to fail. Note, however, that I live in an area where severe
thunderstorms are an almost daily experience for several months of the year.

 

On Mon, 18 Aug 2003 15:30:57 -0500, Mike Berger <berger@shout.net> wrote in
message <3F413781.50071EFF@shout.net>:

Overall, you'll have better longevity and service from higher end
equipment. All monitors, disk drives, etc. are not alike.

It's funny that people are so concerned about how much turbulence
the monitor will go through when shipped a couple hundred miles, but
they're not concerned about the 8000 miles it travelled from the
manufacturer. They design the boxes to absorb a lot of impact.

Some monitors can take a lot even without a box. For my field work I bought
an original c. 1988 NEC 800x560 TTL/EGA/PGA Multisync when they first came
out that was bounced over hill and dale in a stiff-springed 4x4 field
research lab vehicle (not your Grandma's SUV), powered by generators and
dreadful DC-->square-wave converters and floating grounds for five years
without a hiccup.

In about 1992 I bought a used one just like it (but even more beat up) for
personal use that was in daily service until a couple of years ago when
having to manually adjust so that it wouldn't roll at 800x600 (it was only
spec'd to 800x560) became too tedious and I gave it away. 'Far as I know,
it's still connected to a server somewhere -- ~15 years after it was made
and IIRC, back before VGA was even released.

.... Marc
MFHult@nothydrologistnot.com

 

[Robert L. Bass]

Thanks for the suggestion, Mike. I used to use a constant-on 3KW UPS in my
office in CT. As I recall monitors lasted a lot longer up there. Then
again, CT gets about 1% as much lightning as FL does. However, I almost
never lost any hardware due to power slams because we were almost never
running untreated power from the grid.

Regards,
Robert

=============================>
Bass Home Electronics, Inc
2291 Pine View Circle
Sarasota ˇ Florida ˇ 34231
877-722-8900 Sales & Tech Support
941-925-9747 Fax
941-232-0791 Wireless
Nextel Private ID - 161*21755*1
http://www.bass-home.com
=============================>

You should try better power conditioning, in that case. I find monitor
failures to be very rare and still have several 10+ year old monitors that
I use for service, with pictures almost as good as when they were knew.

One of our three Sony GDM17SE1 monitors finally failed, but I used
some of the parts to convert a Silicon Graphics monitor of the same
basic chassis and vintage to separate-sync a few months ago.

I use a Square D whole-house power line filter/surge protector, and APC
SmartUPS's on most equipment.

We buy Sony, NEC, and the occasional ViewSonic. They all have excellent
longevity. The Mags we bought a few years ago are pretty much all ready
for
the trash just because the image was never very good, even when new.

"Robert L. Bass" wrote:

Three years is about all I expect from a monitor. By that time they all
seem to fail. Note, however, that I live in an area where severe
thunderstorms are an almost daily experience for several months of the
year.

 

[jakdedert]

I've got 900 mHz phones exclusively (except for one old 49'er). They rarely
interfere with one another, much less a 2.4 gig unit. The only time I might
have a problem is if I'm *holding* one unit when a call comes in on the
other. IMO, the 2.4 gig band is a wasteland, with more devices piling up on
it all of the time.

Surprisingly enough, the old 49 mHz band is quiet and relatively
unpopulated--now that everyone has moved 'up.' My old phone works as well
or better than the 900's. I retired it when things got too crowded 'down
there.' Then I needed a phone; dug that one out, located a new bat pack for
it, and voila'!

jak

"Jerry G." <jerryg@total.net> wrote in message
news:bhivba$614$1@news.eusc.inter.net...

The frequency bands allocated for cordless phones is limited. The
frequencies are divided up in to channels. The better models are
supposed to do a frequency check to see the best channel or exact
frequency to use that is not occupied.

I have 2 Panasonic 2.4 gHz phones and 2 others that are 900 mHz phones.
They can all be used, and not interfere with each other. Infact, I am in
a high-rise building and many people here have these phones.

I tried some of the lower cost phones, and found that I had interference
problems. I had to opt out for the more expensive models to get rid of
this problem. This has to do with how they manage their frequency
allocation when addressed to be used.


--

Greetings,

Jerry Greenberg GLG Technologies GLG
==============================================
WebPage http://www.zoom-one.com
Electronics http://www.zoom-one.com/electron.htm
Instruments http://www.zoom-one.com/glgtech.htm
==============================================
"C. Stahl" <cmstahl3815@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:4d414616.0308150622.e2b1b44@posting.google.com...
All --

Apologies if this is the wrong NG for this inquiry, but despite having
done some searches, was unable to find a more appropriate one. If
there is a more appropriate group, plse advise.

My question is concerning two cordless phones that I have in my home
on two different phone lines. I currently have two 2.4Ghz cordless
phones, one an AT&T for my home line and one a Panasonic for a
business line. I have experienced that, when using the AT&T phone, if
a call comes in on the Panasonic, the call on the AT&T phone becomes
unintelligible (sounds like a bad cell phone connection). I haven't
had occasion where the calls have come in the reverse order, so I'm
not sure if the Panasonic behaves the same way.

I'm considering replacing the Panasonic 2.4Ghz, so I would then have
one AT&T 2.4Ghz and one AT&T 5.8Ghz.

Does anyone know whether having the two different phones on different
frequency ranges (as opposed to my current phones which both operate
at 2.4Ghz) would eliminate this interference when I have simultaneous
calls?

Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

cmstahl

 

[Jerry Greenberg]

You can try a system reset for your set. Unplug it from the AC for
about 20 seconds, and then plug it back in. You can also consult the
instruction manual to go over all the user menu settings. By your
description, I cannot think of something from a user setting that can
do this type of fault.

If the reset did not do the fix, it sounds like by coincidence the TV
set developed a fault condtion. This would most likely be in the video
processing, or sync processing areas. Your laptop should not have
done any damage at all. I am sure it is of the standard output for
your set. Any electronic device can go defective at any time.

As for your set, this is not something you will be able to fix at
home. You will have to call the authorised service center to have an
estimate done.

Jerry Greenberg
http://www.zoom-one.com

--




dave.dixson_nospam@bigfoot.com (Dave Dixson) wrote in message news:<76c0e2e9.0308181247.78a7433c@posting.google.com>...

The other day I connected the TV out on my laptop to the AV3 in of my
Panasonic televion and I could not get any picture to appear. I have
done this before and it was worked fine.

I played around a bit to get it to work, changing the format of the
signal from my laptop a few times but to no avail, so I finally
admotted defeat.

The thing is, all my other channels will now not display a picture.
The sound is fine, and the on screen graphics appear, although they
seem to be a little higher up than before.

One of my AV inputs, AV1, does show a picture, but it is rolling
quickly. All the other AV inputs show no picture at all (but, again,
do play sound).

Have I broken my television with my laptop, or is it just a "setting"
somewhere in the TV that needs reseting? Is there any way I could
factory reset the TV to try to get it working again?

If anyone has any advice, please let me know,

Cheers,

Dave.

 

[Jerry Greenberg]

I miss-read the model type!

Normaly these flickers can be caused by anything from the HV through
to the video bias, or the power supply.

The best way to find out where the fault is, is to monitor the various
places in the monitor to see where the variations are.

I would start with the power supply.

Just as a point of interest, the LCD screens have this type of fault
when the back-plane lamp starts to go defective. A CRT monitor has
many more critical areas that can cause total picture flicker.


Jerry Greenberg.

--

Mike Berger <berger@shout.net> wrote in message news:<3F4133F5.45331F52@shout.net>...

I'm pretty sure there's no backplane light behind the CRT.

"Jerry G." wrote:

The backplane light, or the ballast transformer for it may be going
defective. On some displays these parts are replicable if able to be
purchased from the manufacture.

 

[Joe]

Tony, I had a speaker overload that caused the protector circuit to
kick in, but only after I smelled smoke. The result was a blown
emitter resistor, and two final transistors that were a pair that made
up one rear channel. If you check between the emitter and collector of
the final amplifier transistors, you may find that a pair of them are
shorted. There may also be a burned emitter resistor to go with it.
Sony appears to design protection that saves your speakers from damage
by blowing the cicuit to heck. I replaced the two final transistos for
$9 and was back in business in 15 minutes. If you need any of the
transistors I used, I got them from www.moteva.com.

Good luck, Joe

"Tony Angerame" <tangerame@earthlink.net> wrote in message news:<rsZ%a.7320$7z1.5279@newsread3.news.pas.earthlink.net>...

Greetings electronics gurus. I am trying to repair a Sony STR-DE-925 Home
Theater. My son in law accidentally shorted a speaker connection. Later he
tried to rpower the set after a full reset but the diosplay read
"PROTECTOR". There is no mention of the "Protector" in the manual. I
inspected the set and found two internal 8 amp fuses blown, which I
replaced. They were in the power supply area. I powered the set on but about
the time the relays in the speaker connection area energize "PROTECTOR"
scans across the display. There is a faint smell of molten silicon in the
chassis the fuses I replaced are still good.but the fuses I replaced are
still good. Is the protector one of those small diode like current/surge
protection devices? In seried with a speaker output?


Thanks,


Tony WA6LZH

 

[David]

Actually it was the overload and/or shorted speaker wires that blew the
output circuit. The protect circuit is only there to shut the amp down if
it detects a dc voltage on the speaker output to prevent immediate destroyed
speakers and bigger damage inside the amplifier all the way back to the
power supply.

The design is there to protect the speakers from damage due to the circuit
being blown to bits by the user.

David

Joe <massimj@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:e9d3dd29.0308181736.d1f111f@posting.google.com...

Tony, I had a speaker overload that caused the protector circuit to
kick in, but only after I smelled smoke. The result was a blown
emitter resistor, and two final transistors that were a pair that made
up one rear channel. If you check between the emitter and collector of
the final amplifier transistors, you may find that a pair of them are
shorted. There may also be a burned emitter resistor to go with it.
Sony appears to design protection that saves your speakers from damage
by blowing the cicuit to heck. I replaced the two final transistos for
$9 and was back in business in 15 minutes. If you need any of the
transistors I used, I got them from www.moteva.com.

Good luck, Joe

"Tony Angerame" <tangerame@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:<rsZ%a.7320$7z1.5279@newsread3.news.pas.earthlink.net>...
Greetings electronics gurus. I am trying to repair a Sony STR-DE-925
Home
Theater. My son in law accidentally shorted a speaker connection. Later
he
tried to rpower the set after a full reset but the diosplay read
"PROTECTOR". There is no mention of the "Protector" in the manual. I
inspected the set and found two internal 8 amp fuses blown, which I
replaced. They were in the power supply area. I powered the set on but
about
the time the relays in the speaker connection area energize "PROTECTOR"
scans across the display. There is a faint smell of molten silicon in
the
chassis the fuses I replaced are still good.but the fuses I replaced
are
still good. Is the protector one of those small diode like current/surge
protection devices? In seried with a speaker output?


Thanks,


Tony WA6LZH

 

[GPE]

Hi Winfield & Tony,

I've tried the SSR method -- unfortunately the delay was unbearable. The
negative voltage I was switching was providing digit drive biasing for a set
of displays. For the segment drive - there was another transistor array --
UDN6118A's. I found that using the SSR method to be quite small, few
components required and worked great - except they were too slow in turnoff
speed. By the time the digit was turning off -- the segment driver was well
into next digit providing a ghosting affect. Only way to fix was stiffer
pullup on output of SSR but had no room for additional large resistors.

I'm looking back into Winfield's dual transistor architecture - that looks
the way to go. Also - another poster mentioned using faster photo diodes -
quite intriguing. Haven't looked into it yet - but I will. I love the idea
of optical isolation between the digital logic and high voltage section.

Thanks,
Ed

"Winfield Hill" <whill@picovolt.com> wrote in message
news:bhqgh602qou@drn.newsguy.com...

Tony Williams wrote...

Might be worth looking at a photoMOS SSR as well,
perhaps the NAIS AVQ-series.

GPE wrote...

Speed is another factor. Must be quick turnon and
turnoff. Unit turned on every 16mS with a 1mS 'on'
duration.

Yes, I'm a fan of the AVQ series and others made by
Aromat / NAiS, and I keep a good inventory. For me
their advantage is simplicity, just power up the LED
and off you go, or should I say, on you go. :&gt

But they do have a few problems. First, they're
slow, having a 0.1 to 0.6ms delay when turning on or
off. If GPE doesn't need a precise 1ms pulse, or care
too much about delay, a part like the AQV214 (400V,
120mA) or AQV216 (600V, 50mA) could work well for him.

Another issue I sometimes struggle with is LED drive
current. GPE might need an emitter follower to get
the recommended 5mA to operate the AQV's LED from his
wimpy 4000 series CMOS logic (4543) running on 5V.

Self capacitance is an issue, the AQV214 has 45pF typ.
Higher current parts in the series have over 150pF.

There's also cost, if the isolation capability isn't
required, the $4 to $5 price isn't very attractive.

Thanks,
- Win

 

On 17 Aug 2003 09:49:12 -0700, rm1122333@yahoo.com (Rob) wrote:

Just recently my 4-year-old 17" Relisys TE786 monitor has started
acting up. The picture would randomly just flicker off and on to a
black screen. It took me a while, but I think I've discovered that it
does this when the air conditioning is on. As the room and monitor get
colder, it flickers on and off more, finally it gets to a point where
it the pictures flicks off and doesn't come back on, even though the
monitor is still getting power. Eventually, the picture goes black,
then it clicks a few times and I get a white screen with vertical bars
which usually means the monitor isn't getting input. I wanted to
change the VGA cable, but it's soldered inside the monitor; it doesnt'
just simply unplug.

So I assume I either have a faulty cable, or a cold-sensitive part
inside my monitor. Is this going to be something expensive to repair?
People in another group told me it'd be cheaper to get a new monitor,
but I can't really afford two or three hundred dollars for a new
monitor at this point.

Thanks for any advice,
Rob

A repair shop will charge almost as much as a new monitor. If you are
semi-competent and understand the safety issues of working inside a
monitor, it's likely an easy fix.

Does the picture go in/out if you wiggle the cable - probably a bad
connection and you just need to cut and resolder the cable.
Otherwise, there is possibly a bad solder joint on one of the boards.

-Chris

 

[Rheilly Phoull]

You could try a MOC 3021 which should be cheap enough.

--
Regards ............... Rheilly Phoull

"Yianni" <in9@mailbox.gr> wrote in message
news:1061238052.966770@athprx02...

In my ultrasonic cleaning machine the optocoupler MB104i4c is burned. It
drives directly a thyristor that controls a 500W/230V heater resistance.
Does anyone know which equivalent to use? I couldn't find the above code
anywhere.
Thanks in advance.

--

Yianni
in@9mailbox.gr (remove number nine to reply)

--

 

[Jerry G.]

On many of these sets, the tolerance of the B+ supply is not very
accurate. If the HOT is not
overheating, and any of the other components being driven on the same
B+ buss are not
overheating, then conditions are good. The accuracy of these low cost
supplies are not the best.
They are more load regulated, rather than having a good feedback
regulation. If the feedback
regulated voltages (such as the 5, 12, and whatever others like this)
are close, then you know the
supply is most likely okay.

I have found a +-10 V B+ tolerance in many of the low cost TV sets.
The voltage written is a
calculated one at the max load conditions with a specific input line
voltage. Also, check that the
label on the back of the set is not written 110VAC, and measure what
your line voltage is. Your
outlet may be supplying 118 to about 125 VAC. This will make a
difference with these supplies.

--

Greetings,

Jerry Greenberg GLG Technologies GLG
==============================================
WebPage http://www.zoom-one.com
Electronics http://www.zoom-one.com/electron.htm
Instruments http://www.zoom-one.com/glgtech.htm
==============================================
"Jim Martz" <jmartz@maplemountain.com> wrote in message
news:2cc1de6f.0308190539.10e5c06a@posting.google.com...
Hi all,

I am working on an Emerson TV
modeL# ts3050D

The set was dead.
I had replaces a shorted avalanche
diode(130v), across the B+.
The STR50041 regulator.
Also had found a 47uf cap. open in
the hot side of the PS.

After replaceing these the set powered
up, but the B+ was reading 134v, but
printed on the board is 125v, also
one would exspect it to be less then
the avalanche diode voltage(130v) ??

So, I replaced the 2sA1706 driver and
a 1ohm resistor as well as the STR50041
again. Also, tested ever part in the PS,
and every thing seems to test good.
BUT, still the same 134v ???

I do not have any info on the str50041,
other then a pinout, and that it is a
41.8 volt regulator. Also I am reading
about -42 volts on the "-sence" pin,
so that would seem to be regulating.

I am not sure what the problem is.
I don't like this kind of PS, there is
no direct feedback from the seconary
side of the ps, unlike most that use
an optocupler. It seems to have its own
winding just for the senceing voltage,
and that seems to be the right voltage.

At this point, is it likelt that there
is some shorted turns on the sence
voltage winding ??
Is the Avalanche diode used to regulate
the voltage, not to protect the PS ??
If so, why would they print 125v on the
board, if that is not the correct voltage ??
What should the B+ really be anyway ???

Thanks for any help,
Jim Martz
jmartz@maplemountain.com

 

[Patch]

"Marco De Vitis" <starless@despammed.com> wrote in message
news:1bkckda6evugj$.dlg@starless.mdv...

Hi, I have a KV-X2531A Sony TV (chassis AE-1C) which is recently
showing a lighter horizontal area on the top of the screen, a line
placed more or less 1/4 of the total screen size from the top.
It appears after 10 minutes or so, when the TV gets hot.

Actually, the area seems to be slightly distorted, as if the lighter
line is indeed the result of an "accumulation" of horizontal lines.

BTW, the TV is the same where I had the disappearing color problem,
see my old thread "Intermittent color/bw on Sony TV".
Some time ago I swapped the two variable capacitors near the
oscillators to work around the color problem, and everthing went
perfect for a while. Recently, the strange line appeared.

Today I tried swapping the capacitors back to their original
positions, but the situation is exactly the same: the color is ok, but
the line is still there.

What might be causing this? I didn't touch the capacitor values... can
their swapping be related to the new problem? Or is it a new and
totally unrelated problem?

Thanks in advance.

--
Ciao,
Marco.

Sounds like bad caps in the vertical output stage.