Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

u1061771156@csi.com (u1061771156) wrote in
news:slrnbjqkrc.f5.u1061771156@csi.com:

While Tek 2430's are being discussed in the group, I'll add my problem
to the list:

Used to work fine. Then it intermittently didn't seem to want to
trigger, and could usually be encouraged to start triggering by
fiddling with controls (such as pressing SAVE and then ACQUIRE a few
times).

Next it intermittently failed the self-test on the trigger, IIRC it
failed both A and B timebase tests from all trigger sources. Rerunning
the test would sometimes pass.

These days it just hangs in the self-test, saying:


CH1 10mV~ A 5ms 59.4mV? EXT1
Ch2 200mV~

RUNNING SELF TEST

Anyone seen behaviour like this before?
I tried reseating some connectors and socketed chips where I could see
them but that's had no visible effect.

Is the service manual available somewhere at a sensible price?

Regards,
Mike.
Click to expand...
It may just need a complete calibration.Recommended once a year.
They do not stay calibrated indefinitely.

--
Jim Yanik,NRA member
remove null to contact me
 
"Rufus V. Smith" wrote to "All" (14 Aug 03 02:52:22)
--- on the topic of "Re: Our Ability To Express Ourselves?"

RVS> From: "Rufus V. Smith" <nospam@nospam.net>

RVS> "Doug Taylor" <techno2nospam@videotron.ca> wrote in message
RVS> news:slrnbjf5tj.ln.techno2nospam@localhost.localdomain...
Have we completely lost our ability to express ourselves?

I love reading this Newsgroup, but I am astounded by how many
people can't articulate their technical problem in plain English.

" i got atv don't work. its a ge. has a black screen no picture
whaatz the problem"

They don't give Model Numbers, or explain clearly what the problem
is exactly, (like it stopped working after a lighting strike)
but they expect instant solutions with no effort or expense.

"Fix my VCR for me, as I don't have the time or skill to do it myself."
"Nor do I want to pay a REAL technician to repair it for me."

What do you think?

Doug Taylor
Click to expand...
RVS> Not everyone in newsgroup-land is a native english speaker (or
RVS> typist).
RVS> But many english speakers just aren't that bright (or maybe they're
RVS> simply ignorant). One of the problems with bringing computer power to
RVS> the unwashed masses. They want to mingle...


You forgot some of us here are so damn rich that we don't need to know
how to write with proper grammar. Heck some here are so rich they don't
even have to know how to write at all! <g>

.... Batteries not included.
 
My recall is that we saw a lot more doming problems in the early to mid 80s.
I guess it depends on the brand and model.

Leonard Caillouet

"David" <dkuhajda@locl.net> wrote in message
news:68f82f5b.0308151355.5bff9452@posting.google.com...
It looked like in his description that they came and went while
watching the tv set. Unless the degauss relay was stuck in the on
position, the degauss circuit would not have been doing this. If this
problem only happens on occasion right after turning it on, I would
expect a degauss circuit problem.

Some external magnetic field could however do something like this,
like a motor starting and stopping somewhere near the tv set.

5 year old set, 2003-5=1997. 97 is about when all the manufactures
had the biggest problems with tubes developing doming.

There just is not enough accurate information in the post of the
problem to really tell which way to look at it.

David

"Leonard G. Caillouet" <lcaillo_ns_@devoynet.com> wrote in message
news:<2y9%a.2538$f44.800@fe04.atl2.webusenet.com>...
David,
The discussion is about a guy's 5 year old Panasonic 27". The
likelihood of
a doming problem on this one is much lower than a thermistor problem.
If
you read the symptom he describes a problem in the corner as well as the
side. No none is saying that doming is not a potential problem, but
magnetic fields are very common on these sets due to degaussing circuit
problems.

Leonard Caillouet

"David" <dkuhajda@locl.net.spam> wrote in message
news:3f3c5d54@news.greennet.net...
If doming were really that rare, would RCA/Thomson, Zenith, Panasonic,
Toshiba, at a couple of lesser brands have all issued more than one
service
bulletin about the problem?

For a while a few years back it was big complaint on Toshiba and
Thomson
32"
and 36" tv sets that were a few months into warranty.

David

Jerry G. <jerryg@total.net> wrote in message
news:bhge6f$fqn$1@news.eusc.inter.net...
There may be a few issues here. The degaussed circuit may not be
working properly. Sometimes when turning on the set, the screen may
not
be properly degaussed. The thermosistor, and all the associated
solder
connections should be checked. An experienced TV tech can service
this
very easily.

There is the possibility that there is a magnetic field near to the
set
that you are not aware of. If there are power wires with a heavy
load on
them, that are within about 5 feet to the set, this can cause this
effect. There may be something on the other side of the wall from
the
set that can cause problems, such as a large speaker, or device that
has
a magnetic field.

As for the CRT having a defective mask, I sort of would rule this
out
since you are indicating that the fault is not there all the time.
This
means that it is clearable. I have seen defective masks in the CRT
cause this type of fault, but the fault could not be cleared.

There are rare occasions where for some reason the mask starts to
have a
doming effect, especial when it gets warm. This means that something
became weak with the mask, and as it raises in temperature, it would
warp slightly. If this was the case, it should be very consistent,
and
not go away.

Have the set properly checked by someone who really knows what they
are
doing.

--

Greetings,

Jerry Greenberg GLG Technologies GLG
==============================================
WebPage http://www.zoom-one.com
Electronics http://www.zoom-one.com/electron.htm
Instruments http://www.zoom-one.com/glgtech.htm
==============================================
"Jeffrey Ellin" <deaduser@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:e8a45386.0308131542.5c01e7bb@posting.google.com...
I have a 27" Panasonic TV which is about 5years old that has
developed
a problem where periodically there are a greenish yellow splotches
on
the screen in the left side and lower right corner. There aren't
there
all the time. They almost look like there is a speaker near by which
there isn't. I was going to pitch this set until a tv repair tech
from
Toshiba was at my house to work on another tv mentioned that it
might
be a bad degausing circuit. He couldn't be sure because it wasn't
exhibiting the problem at the time. I tried to press him for some
information, but he was behind schedule and in a hurry to leave and
of
course it wasn't a Toshiba set. It got me thinking though, how much
would it cost me to repair a degausing circuit and what is the
likelyhood that is the problem. I could take it in for an estimate,
but the set is dificult for me to move.
Click to expand...
 
"Gordon Burditt" <gordonb.vdds3@sneaky.lerctr.org> wrote in message
news:bgpsm4$5pl@library2.airnews.net...
President Bush announced today that he is giving North Korea 1 week
to cease construction of a new DVD player factory. This is in
reaction to the recent death of half of the population of New York
City when a suicide bomber dropped a battery-powered DVD player off
of the visitor's area at the top of the Empire State Building. He
has assured the North Korean government that if they do not cooperate,
he will respond with carpet-bombing using high-quality Japanese
audio/visual home electronics.

FatherLand Security announced today that it was raising the threat
level yet again, as it has information that the terrorist organization
RIAA is trying to mass produce another Madonna music video.

The United Nations has announced that it has ceased all attempts
at finding survivors in the Dead Zone (formerly known as the Middle
East, Israel, North Africa, Eastern Europe, and parts of the former
Soviet Union). None of the search teams have returned. Al Queda was
apparently trying to assemble a missile to fire at Israel, and three
DVD players reached critical mass, destroying a good chunk of Earth.

Gordon L. Burditt
Click to expand...
Now that is funny intelligent humour worth posting. Great job Gordon.
 
It won't PLAY tapes, either. No static, nothing. Just black.

Please help. I only got one response thus far and it wasn't enough
information
to help me.
Click to expand...
Your camcorder has over 100 capacitors that need to be replaced. Junk it and
buy another. It will never work correctly unless this is done and is not cost
effective to repair.
Mike W
Video Services
 
On Sat, 16 Aug 2003 16:07:24 GMT, "Arkon24fps" <dunfy@dogus.com>
wrote:

americanfamilyagent207@livewire.com> wrote in message
news:sc8tiv4fbois2ogqk3csjs0457f7fb6juh@4ax.com...
From the Livewire Newsfeed

August 4, 2003

A New Mexico family was killed by a DVD player last Friday.
Authorities reported that it appeared that the DVD player had just
been purchased. Apparently an accident caused the player to fall off
the television set in their living room. It is suspected that the
family cat possibly knocked it down. The plastic case of the DVD
player became cracked during the fall to the floor, emitting the fatal
radiation which killed the entire family of seven.

Authorities were notified on Saturday when a relative came to visit
and found the family car in the driveway and no one would answer the
door. When the police arrived they used forced entry and were shocked
at what they found. There were dead bodies laying all over the living
room floor, including the husband, wife and five children. None of
them showed any signs of physical abuse, and all other possibile
causes of death have been ruled out. Authorities are positive the
deaths were caused by the DVD player.

Additionally, the first officer to enter the premises was struck down
and affected by the harmful radiation, and is hospitalized in critical
condition. The electric company was summoned and disconnected the
power to the premises before further action could be taken.

A cat was found laying right next to the fatal DVD player, which leads
to the suspicion that the cat was the cause of the player falling off
of the television.

Names of the family members are being withheld until further
investigation and notification of relatives of the deceased.
Funeral arrangements will be announced shortly.


What about the cat's remaining 8 lives? Maybe this family died because they
were watching a Mandy Moore or Ben & Jen flick. Lame and dull
"entertainment" can kill.

Reminds me of the last line in the movie Chinatown:

It wasn't the dvd player that killed them; it was a visit from Mr. Blanding
(who by the way works as a carpenter and builds houses).
Click to expand...
Rumor has it that it that it was a bootleg of Gigli.
 
"Bill Janssen" <billj@ieee.org> wrote in message
news:3F3D3CE4.383EF94C@ieee.org...
Heath did that with a voltmeter kit that I put together. However, as I
recall,
they provided the D cell and the voltage that they measured in their lab.
The
voltage was only correct for that particular cell.
Click to expand...
.... and possibly the same temperature as their lab.
 
I finally bought a new monitor cable and tried it. No luck!
I even tried the new cable with another system.
I think my "just over 3-year warranty" monitor may need servicing.
Are there any long lasting quality monitors out there?
I may need to shop for one if my current monitor is
not worth fixing.


"BruceR" <bruceNO@SPAMwhoever.com> wrote in message
news:IcTZa.32178$It3.950852@twister.socal.rr.com...
Sometimes just unpluging and plugging the cable a few times will clear
things up.

Ryan wrote:
Thanks for the suggestions. I hope I'm going to
Circuit City for a cable only and not a monitor. ;)


"Robert L. Bass" <robertlbass@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:boCdncCNueDwbKqiRVn-iw@giganews.com...
Hmmm ... I checked the cable connection on both ends.
It seems very secure. I'll get a new cable and try that.

The amber coloring is very even across the entire screen.
And, it's giving me a headache.

That doesn't sound like degaussing will be of any use at all. If
you have a RatShak nearby, get a can ov volume control cleaner.
Squirt a little on / in the cable pins. Gently brush the pins with
a cotton swab. Try it again.

If this fails, it's probably failing internally. Go to Circuit
City. Do not pass GO. Do not stop at Best Buy (ever). Best of
luck.

BTW, I had to look up the meaning of the acronym.

I guessed based on the "language preferences" of the other poster.
:^)

Regards,
Robert

=============================
Bass Home Electronics, Inc
2291 Pine View Circle
Sarasota ˇ Florida ˇ 34231
877-722-8900 Sales & Tech Support
941-925-9747 Fax
941-232-0791 Wireless
Nextel Private ID - 161*21755*1
http://www.bass-home.com
=============================
Click to expand...
 
"Rufus V. Smith" <nospam@nospam.net> wrote in message
news:3f3ccf4f$1_7@corp.newsgroups.com...
"Doug Taylor" <techno2nospam@videotron.ca> wrote in message
news:slrnbjf5tj.ln.techno2nospam@localhost.localdomain...

Have we completely lost our ability to express ourselves?

I love reading this Newsgroup, but I am astounded by how many
people can't articulate their technical problem in plain English.

" i got atv don't work. its a ge. has a black screen no picture
whaatz the problem"

They don't give Model Numbers, or explain clearly what the problem
is exactly, (like it stopped working after a lighting strike)
but they expect instant solutions with no effort or expense.

"Fix my VCR for me, as I don't have the time or skill to do it myself."
"Nor do I want to pay a REAL technician to repair it for me."

What do you think?

Doug Taylor


Not everyone in newsgroup-land is a native english speaker (or typist).

But many english speakers just aren't that bright (or maybe they're simply
ignorant). One of the problems with bringing computer power to the
unwashed masses. They want to mingle...
Click to expand...
At least the odor doesn't transmit....
I certainly agree that questions like: "I turn the TV on and get no
picture,
what's wrong?" Should instantly terminate newsgroup access for the
poster,
at
a minimum.

Too bad there's no short message to effectively say: Read the manual,
tell
us
model numbers, tell us unusual circumstances prior to the failure, etc...

Let's see: RTFM, M#, UCPTF....
Click to expand...

That'll do it, ehh?

Forgot: symptoms presenting--PS.

So; RTFM, M#, UCPTF, PS...one line.

Of course, then we'll have to spend an entire thread explaining the
abbreviations....

jak
It calls for a FAQ on problem posting, but anyone who could find the FAQ
probably already knows how to post a problem.

I tend to ignore questions where the poster hasn't bother to think a
little.

Rufus






-----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =-----
http://www.newsfeeds.com - The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World!
-----== Over 100,000 Newsgroups - 19 Different Servers! =-----
Click to expand...
 
wpa wrote...
FET or IGBT

Take care for isolation distances when designing the PCB!!

AB wrote...
Can anyone suggest a way to switch 400V DC? I need to make
400Vdc square wave from a 400V DC source that I already have.
My switching frequency will be 50 to 75 kHz and I only need
to switch a few mA or 10 mA at the most.
Click to expand...
Forget using an IGBT, unless you can find a very small one.
There are few suitable small MOSFETs with a high enough
voltage rating, but one noteable exception is the Supertex
VN0550N3 and VP0550N3, which are 550-volt N and P-types in
TO-92 packages. They're available in stock at Mouser.

Here's a sample circuit you could try.

.. +400V ----+----+----------,
.. R1 | _|_ D1 |
.. 100k /_\ 1N4148 | Q1
.. | | |--| VP0550
.. +----+------||->'
.. | |--,
.. _|_ C2 |
.. --- 220pF |
.. | +---o
.. R2 |
.. 8-volt 2.2k |
.. square- | |--' Q2
.. wave -----+-----------||<-, VN0550
.. |--|
.. |
.. gnd

The parts have 60 and 125-ohm Ron, so they shoulc be able to
drive a 10mA load just fine, provided you can supply a full
8 volts or higher gate-drive squarewave.

Theoretically they should require only a modest operating
current, because they have very low output capacitance, the
sum of the two Coss values being about 20pF over most of the
high-voltage range. The classic switching-loss formula is
P = f C V^2, which for 75kHz 20pF and 300V amounts to only
135mW, or a current of P/V = 450uA. Of course, this does not
include the so-called shoot-through losses due to both FETs
being on at the same time. You can minimize this by using a
fast rise and fall-time squarewave into the combined roughly
100pF of Ciss input capacitance and 1nC of gate charge for
the two FETs. For example, to insure switching in about 50ns
the minimum gate drive current would be about i = q/t = 20mA.

Another critical calculation is the switching energy lost in
your load capacitance, but you see above how to do that one.

Thanks,
- Win
 
My current one on this particular machine is a 19" Philips. It works OK
with the Nvideo card in my XP. I think I've had this one about two and a
half years. So far no problems have arisen.

Regards,
Robert

=============================>
Bass Home Electronics, Inc
2291 Pine View Circle
Sarasota ˇ Florida ˇ 34231
877-722-8900 Sales & Tech Support
941-925-9747 Fax
941-232-0791 Wireless
Nextel Private ID - 161*21755*1
http://www.bass-home.com
=============================>

I guess I could try playing with the ViewMatch Color (or RBG) settings a
bit before
shelling out the $$$ for a new monitor. Any suggestions of a quality
monitor (either
CRT or flat panel) without spending a fortune these days? Or, isn't there
such a thing?
Click to expand...
 
Ed, GPE wrote...
I'm also looking to switch high voltage controlled by a CMOS
gate. But this one's a tad harder. Need to be as small as
possible and needs to switch a load to ground. The load is
operated at -150 volts DC at 25mA.
Click to expand...
Can you spell out your switch-driving voltages, etc,?
For example, are these from a positive logic level, so
that you need a level-shift function, as well as the
-150V switching?

Thanks,
- Win
 
Winfield Hill wrote...
Here's a sample circuit you could try.
Click to expand...
C2 should probably be somewhat larger, say 1000pF 500V.

.. +400V ----+----+----------,
.. R1 | _|_ D1 |
.. 100k /_\ 1N4148 | Q1
.. | | |--| VP0550
.. +----+------||->'
.. | |--,
.. _|_ C2 |
.. --- 1000pF |
.. | 500V +---o
.. R2 |
.. 8-volt 2.2k |
.. square- | |--' Q2
.. wave -----+-----------||<-, VN0550
.. |--|
.. |
.. gnd

Thanks,
- Win
 
"Watson A.Name - 'Watt Sun'" wrote:
In article <3F3C7B23.4F3014D8@earthlink.net>, robertbaer@earthlink.net
mentioned...
Jim Adney wrote:

On 13 Aug 2003 13:48:19 -0700 alanh_27@yahoo.com (Alan Horowitz)
wrote:

any of these new-fangled battery chemistries such that, buying an
average one off the shelf, it has a voltage that's within 1% of it's
nominal?

I seem to recall fresh ordinary carbon-zinc batteries being used as
"standards" in an earlier era. I think the voltage was supposed to be
1.56V, but that's a very old memory and could be off a bit.

-


I have never heard of using carbon-zinc (Leclanche) cells for any kind
of reference, and i have been an electronic technician for over 50
years.

When I was a youngster I got a VTVM that had instructions that had you
calibrate the DC range by measuring a fresh dry cell. Well, there
were no alkalines back then, everything was carbon-zinc.

[snip]
Click to expand...

That is *not* the same as attempting to use LeClanche cells as a
secondary ro tertiary standard.
Yes, Heathkit (and maybe Knight) VTVM kit instructions recommended the
use of a fresh dry cell for calibration at 1.55V; that was good enough
for the 3% accuracy (at best) of the meters.
 
Jim Adney wrote:
On Fri, 15 Aug 2003 04:16:03 -0700 Watson A.Name - 'Watt Sun'
alondra101@hotmail.com> wrote:

In article <3F3C7B23.4F3014D8@earthlink.net>, robertbaer@earthlink.net
mentioned...

Jim Adney wrote:

I seem to recall fresh ordinary carbon-zinc batteries being used as
"standards" in an earlier era. I think the voltage was supposed to be
1.56V, but that's a very old memory and could be off a bit.

I have never heard of using carbon-zinc (Leclanche) cells for any kind
of reference, and i have been an electronic technician for over 50
years.

When I was a youngster I got a VTVM that had instructions that had you
calibrate the DC range by measuring a fresh dry cell. Well, there
were no alkalines back then, everything was carbon-zinc.

Yes, I remember that one, but the ones I was thinking about were some
of the 60s vacuum tube stereos where you were to set the bias by
comparing the 1.56V from a fresh carbon-zinc D-cell to the voltage
drop across the cathode resistor. I believe both Eico and Dynaco did
this.

Yes, it probably wasn't much of a "standard," but it was close enough,
and probably within 1%, which was better than almost anything else in
those days.

-
-----------------------------------------------
Jim Adney jadney@vwtype3.org
Madison, WI 53711 USA
-----------------------------------------------
Click to expand...
Cannot get 1% accuracy with (at best) 5% cathode resistors.....
 
Don wrote:
Well, Dynaco tube amps used batteries as a reference in theiur biasing.
http://www.angelfire.com/ma2/AdamVon/dynaresto.html

In article <3F3C7B23.4F3014D8@earthlink.net>, robertbaer@earthlink.net says...

Jim Adney wrote:

On 13 Aug 2003 13:48:19 -0700 alanh_27@yahoo.com (Alan Horowitz)
wrote:

any of these new-fangled battery chemistries such that, buying an
average one off the shelf, it has a voltage that's within 1% of it's
nominal?

I seem to recall fresh ordinary carbon-zinc batteries being used as
"standards" in an earlier era. I think the voltage was supposed to be
1.56V, but that's a very old memory and could be off a bit.

-
-----------------------------------------------
Jim Adney jadney@vwtype3.org
Madison, WI 53711 USA
-----------------------------------------------

I have never heard of using carbon-zinc (Leclanche) cells for any kind
of reference, and i have been an electronic technician for over 50
years.
The mercury cells made reasonable inexpensive secondary standards, and
the voltage known to 4 digits (if i remember correctly) and could be
calibrated and used as transfer standards to 5 digits (if i remember
correctly).
It is my guess that the Lithium cells may be the best of the various
voltage sources, for that purpose.
However, one might do better using a 1.25V band-gap reference driven
from a Lithium cell.
There now seems to be an even better reference using a new technology;
see:
http://www.xicor.com/voltage_family.php
Click to expand...
Nope; not as a reference - used for bias.
 
For ~$170, the Philips 109B40 (19'', 1920x1440 DPI, .21mm)
doesn't sound bad. Does anyone out there have any info on
(the quality of) the internals of this monitor (or its closest predecessor)?
Any known common problems/repairs?

I don't think I'm going to spend a fortune (~$900) on
top-of-the-line monitors anymore, especially if they're going to
go bad not long after the 3-year warranty period.


"Robert L. Bass" <robertlbass@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:79ydndtiN5XHJqOiRVn-hw@giganews.com...
My current one on this particular machine is a 19" Philips. It works OK
with the Nvideo card in my XP. I think I've had this one about two and a
half years. So far no problems have arisen.

Regards,
Robert

=============================
Bass Home Electronics, Inc
2291 Pine View Circle
Sarasota ˇ Florida ˇ 34231
877-722-8900 Sales & Tech Support
941-925-9747 Fax
941-232-0791 Wireless
Nextel Private ID - 161*21755*1
http://www.bass-home.com
=============================

I guess I could try playing with the ViewMatch Color (or RBG) settings a
bit before
shelling out the $$$ for a new monitor. Any suggestions of a quality
monitor (either
CRT or flat panel) without spending a fortune these days? Or, isn't there
such a thing?
Click to expand...
 
Is there an XP or Win2K compatible driver, Marc?

I have a pair of essentially unused Mitsubishi Diamond Pro 21" (20"
viewable) with built-in touchscreens that are excess to my needs.

I bought them as backups for interactive museum display of realtime
water-quality measurements in an underground (cave) stream that I
installed
but I haven't had a field failure.
Click to expand...
 
On Sat, 16 Aug 2003 23:07:26 -0400, "Robert L. Bass"
<robertlbass@comcast.net> wrote in message
<3KudnUAU5vfvbKOiRVn-ig@giganews.com>:

Is there an XP or Win2K compatible driver, Marc?

I have a pair of essentially unused Mitsubishi Diamond Pro 21" (20"
viewable) with built-in touchscreens that are excess to my needs.

I bought them as backups for interactive museum display of realtime
water-quality measurements in an underground (cave) stream that I
installed but I haven't had a field failure.
Click to expand...

Windows™ XP, Windows 2000, Windows NT, Windows 9x, and Windows Me drivers
and calibration/settings programs here:
http://www.3m.com/3MTouchSystems/downloads/drivers.jhtml

I've only used the XP and W2K drivers. The latest versions allow
coordination of touch screens on two (multiple?) monitors.

Also links to third-party Linux drivers.

My experience with touchscreens is that how well the setup and calibration
controls work can be make-or-break. 3M's control programs for these
monitors (formerly MicroTouch) are quite good. On a big screen, five-point
calibration (rather than the more common 2- or 3-point), being able to
accurately define the spatial relation between the touch point and the
actual active "mouse" area, converting single-touch --> double click, click
on release, and so on are all very useful.

.... Marc
MFHult@nothydrologistnot.com
www.ECOntrol.org
 
Would you be interested in a swap? I have a few thousand items from which
you might choose. :^)

Regards,
Robert

=============================>
Bass Home Electronics, Inc
2291 Pine View Circle
Sarasota ˇ Florida ˇ 34231
877-722-8900 Sales & Tech Support
941-925-9747 Fax
941-232-0791 Wireless
Nextel Private ID - 161*21755*1
http://www.bass-home.com
=============================>

Is there an XP or Win2K compatible driver, Marc?

I have a pair of essentially unused Mitsubishi Diamond Pro 21" (20"
viewable) with built-in touchscreens that are excess to my needs.

I bought them as backups for interactive museum display of realtime
water-quality measurements in an underground (cave) stream that I
installed but I haven't had a field failure.


WindowsT XP, Windows 2000, Windows NT, Windows 9x, and Windows Me drivers
and calibration/settings programs here:
http://www.3m.com/3MTouchSystems/downloads/drivers.jhtml

I've only used the XP and W2K drivers. The latest versions allow
coordination of touch screens on two (multiple?) monitors.

Also links to third-party Linux drivers.

My experience with touchscreens is that how well the setup and calibration
controls work can be make-or-break. 3M's control programs for these
monitors (formerly MicroTouch) are quite good. On a big screen, five-point
calibration (rather than the more common 2- or 3-point), being able to
accurately define the spatial relation between the touch point and the
actual active "mouse" area, converting single-touch --> double click,
click
on release, and so on are all very useful.

... Marc
MFHult@nothydrologistnot.com
www.ECOntrol.org
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