Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[WItam40231]

Crowbar shunt to ground or a MOV across the ac line should do the trick.

 

[Sofie]

Naren:
Troubleshoot with your oscilloscope and pinpoint exactly what stage the
audio disappears? pre driver, driver, power output ??? Obviously you also
need to test/check the components in these stages.
--
Best Regards,
Daniel Sofie
Electronics Supply & Repair
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -


"AVNAREN" <petnar@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:lwkSa.6705$5e7.485328@news20.bellglobal.com...

Hi

This receiver came with "protection" mode. Output STKs were replaced and
set
came out of protection mode - But no sound output. Audio is OK at
"monitor"
/ rec out terminals. beonf that point no audio - All power supplies are
OK.

Any clue about where things are going wrong?

Thanks

Naren

 

[TCS]

On Mon, 21 Jul 2003 14:02:50 -0700, Sofie <sofie@olypen.com> wrote:

Carol:
You can unscrew and remove the cover from the VCR (be sure to UNPLUG it from
the AC Power first) and see if you can locate the fuse ..... if it is
blown, replace it with the EXACT type, voltage and amp rating. If it
immediately blows again, your VCR will need to be repaired. You will need
to take your VCR to a repair shop for at the very least a repair cost
estimate so you can make an intelligent repair decision with facts instead
of internet guesses.

The tape-in light wouldn't light up if the fuse were blown and perhaps
it isn't worth spending $40 for diagnose a vcr worth $25 in good
condition.

<pathetic advertisement snipped>

 

[DORK]

The nearest airport. <tyty@andersen.tdcadsl.dk> wrote in message
news:3f1c4ccb$0$5155$edfadb0f@dread11.news.tele.dk...

hi
where can i get a flyback with the model nr. ( msu-1fus14 or msu1fus14)

Best regards

 

[Sofie]

TCS:
Your reply does not appear to be entirely correct......
Over the years there were many models of Emerson VCRs manufactured ......(
the OP did not include a model number)...... that had up to 3 fuses in the
power supply...... one was the primary and there were one or two secondary
fuses. They should be checked after a power surge.
To assume that it is not worth repairing could also be inaccurate without
even a cursory and basic diagnostic...... and in most shops it won't cost
$40 to diagnosis..... I would be out my present business if I charged that
amount to "evaluate" a VCR considering the current market conditions. The
bigger shops that are busy with satellite and home theater and the shops
that don't want to mess around with low-end repairs and want to discourage
VCR repairs may charge that much, but not all shops do this..... ask
around..
--
Best Regards,
Daniel Sofie
Electronics Supply & Repair
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -


"TCS" <The.Central.Scrutinizer@p.o.b.o.x.com> wrote in message
news:slrnbhoo5u.51u.The.Central.Scrutinizer@turing.kaosol.net...

On Mon, 21 Jul 2003 14:02:50 -0700, Sofie <sofie@olypen.com> wrote:
Carol:
You can unscrew and remove the cover from the VCR (be sure to UNPLUG it
from
the AC Power first) and see if you can locate the fuse ..... if it is
blown, replace it with the EXACT type, voltage and amp rating. If it
immediately blows again, your VCR will need to be repaired. You will
need
to take your VCR to a repair shop for at the very least a repair cost
estimate so you can make an intelligent repair decision with facts
instead
of internet guesses.

The tape-in light wouldn't light up if the fuse were blown and perhaps
it isn't worth spending $40 for diagnose a vcr worth $25 in good
condition.

pathetic advertisement snipped

 

[Rudolf Ladyzhenskii]

There is a thin (about 6 wires) flat cable that goes between carousel
sensors and main board. Take it out and insert the other way around (swap
carousel and main board ends). If it helps -- replace the cable. They do
break quite often.

Rudolf

"Chris F." <zappyman@nospam.com> wrote in message
news:Qx_Sa.11380$jL2.1237863@ursa-nb00s0.nbnet.nb.ca...

Model CDP-C425, mfd. 1992. Lights up when powered, but when attempting
to
"lock on" to the disc the turntable won't quite reach the position. If I
nudge it with my fingers at the right time, it will lock into place.
However, once the laser raises into place it won't do anything else (such
as
spin the disc). It only spun the disc once, for about a second. I got this
from another (supposed) technician, who had obviously checked a few caps
and
taken care of some cold solder. Is there anything else I can try, or is
this
basically junk?
Thanks for any advice.

--
*********
Reply to: zappyman@hotmail.com
*********

 

[Ricardo Matos Abreu]

"Dave D" <someone@somewhere.com> wrote in message
news:bfhhb0$733$1@titan.btinternet.com...

"Doug Taylor" <techno2nospam@videotron.ca> wrote in message
news:slrnbho2vf.ll.techno2nospam@localhost.localdomain...

Imagine if you bought a car for $30,000 and in 1 year it
was worth $15,000 and in 2 years it was valued at $5,000.
That's exactly what happens in the world of computers today.
You buy a new system for $3,000 and in 2 years it's worth
$500. and in three it's a worthless antique.

Yes, but so what? Cars do exactly that- depreciate rapidly, as does just
about any electronic or mechanical gadget.

Yes, but five years later you're able to drive your car to the very same
places you could in the very first day. You can't access, for example,
plenty of sites with a 5 year old computer (not upgraded, of course) because
those sites require the always demanding latest versions of Macromedia
Flash, Quicktime, etc...

You can't share anymore some binaries because your colleagues got a better
computer with a newer software version and the file format is different. The
paradigmatic example for me was Micro$oft's Word 6.0 (which was more or less
a de facto standard by the time) and Microsoft Word 7.0. There was a option
to save files in "Word 6.0" format, but everything was messed up. The
reverse was true: M$Word 6.0 files were messed when opened in 7.0.

And so on, and so on...

And you can't, BY ANY CHANCE, to rely on your computer as you can rely in
your car.


Ricardo

 

[Loren Coe]

In article <3F1CC6A2.E85FB4F2@worldnet.att.net>, John M. Benz wrote:

Does anyone know where I might find service into on a Pioneer LD-700
laser disk player? Mine has died, and Pioneer says the service manual
is no longer available.

there is a Sam's photofacts online, pricey and their inventory
description stinks so it is a little like pot luck. --Loren

 

[Some guy]

Begin On Mon, 21 Jul 2003 21:59:45 GMT "DORK" <dORK@ORK.ORG> wrote in
Message id: <lnZSa.15617$%bQ.10349@news01.bloor.is.net.cable.rogers.com>:

OK, who left the 'tard door open? (At least he knows his name, I
suppose...)

 

[RCU]

On Mon, 21 Jul 2003 15:27:36 -0700, Sofie wrote:

TCS:
Your reply does not appear to be entirely correct......
Over the years there were many models of Emerson VCRs manufactured ......(
the OP did not include a model number)...... that had up to 3 fuses in the
power supply...... one was the primary and there were one or two secondary
fuses. They should be checked after a power surge.
To assume that it is not worth repairing could also be inaccurate without
even a cursory and basic diagnostic...... and in most shops it won't cost
$40 to diagnosis..... I would be out my present business if I charged that
amount to "evaluate" a VCR considering the current market conditions. The
bigger shops that are busy with satellite and home theater and the shops
that don't want to mess around with low-end repairs and want to discourage
VCR repairs may charge that much, but not all shops do this..... ask
around..

Just to second this, I have an Emerson VCR that I'm trying to fix an
unrelated problem with, and it does have three fuses in the power supply
area (it uses a STK regulator).

 

[john]

First read your own mail before sending.
Call in a TV tech to get an estimate cost.

kip

--
"Watch the return E-Mail addy its false"
"Efandin" <efandin@netscape.net> wrote in message
news:73b23b5d.0307212059.2df85ae1@posting.google.com...

My 32” Panasonic TV (Model CT-32G21) has been turning off and on
by itself. When it auto-turned off, I couldn’t turned it on
until it turned on by itself (usually after 5-20 minutes). I didnot
set the Sleep Timer and Program Timer on. I have reset the TV by
pushing Power + Action buttons together -
the Message on TV screen was: “Self Check T6F-4; Memory, PIP,
CRT, Tuner1, MTS are OK.”
But the problem still persists. My TV was connected to 2 VCRs, DVD
player, and an old TV Scientific Atlanta cable box. Can somebody help
please?

 

[Haines Brown]

Can consciousness be represented in physical terms? I'd like to return
to this point and offer a hypothesis, for it is one that interests
me. I'd then like to test that hypothesis in terms of what I take to
be our common understanding of what "consciousness" seems to imply.

First, the axioms. I start with the idea of an emergent (negentropic
process). Its state at any particular time will, I assume, be a
function of its initial state, of any subsequent external influences,
and of an element of randomness. That is, outcomes are
probabilistically related to an initial condition. Of course, I here
assume that a probabilistic causality can be an objective property of
things and not just an effect of our ignorance.

Now let's apply this to mental life. I posit the existence of three
memory registers in the mind: a) one records the initial state, b) one
records the present state of the mental system, c) and one records the
difference between these two states.

My hypothesis: this third memory is what we call consciousness. It is
the difference between an emergent mental state and its initial state
as a reflection of the world.

Does it satisfy what we intuitively think of as being consciousness?

First, consciousness represents the person's world, but more than
that, it is a sense of being both outside the world and in it at the
same time. It is both product of the world and a sense of our viewing
the world. It is both an approximate reflection of the world and also
an emergent mental state somewhat independent of it. This
contradiction is reconciled by suggesting that consciousness is a
mental state that embodies the difference between an emergent mental
state (the present) and an initial impression of the world (the past).

Also a part of consciousness is self-consciousness. But this seems to
fall under my first point. It is a knowledge of ourself coupled with a
sense of actively reflecting upon ourself. We see ourselves, but we
have to stand outside ourselves as a seeing agent, but that agent must
arise from what we are (rather than have metaphysical origin). If the
seeing agent were identical to what we are or what we were, then we
could not have self-consciousness, so it has to be their difference.

Finally, consciousness seems to imply an inner mental life that is
abstracted from the world to become an object in itself. While we must
admit that such a mental life can entail pure fantasy, more
importantly we know that that abstracted thought at least has a
capacity for discovering the truth about things. It must be
independent of the world and yet a function of the world. This
ratiocination seems possible as an emergent body of thought that is
probabilistically determined by the object of thought.

That my axioms can be contested is irrelevant here, for my object is
not to prove that this is what consciousness is, but only that its
physical explanation is possible. So I'd find criticisms of the logic
more helpful than that of its axioms.

My hypothesis aims to indicate how our knowledge can be both creative
and determined by the object of knowledge, how humans can be both
freely creative and at the same time determined.

Haines Brown

 

[Sarah]

Why would anyone want to repair an emerson vcr? (especially a 2 head mono)
you can buy a brand new (better brand) 4 head hi-fi for $50.
"RCU" <nemesis@icequake.no_spam.net> wrote in message
newsan.2003.07.22.11.36.35.798230@icequake.no_spam.net...

On Mon, 21 Jul 2003 15:27:36 -0700, Sofie wrote:

TCS:
Your reply does not appear to be entirely correct......
Over the years there were many models of Emerson VCRs manufactured
.......(
the OP did not include a model number)...... that had up to 3 fuses in
the
power supply...... one was the primary and there were one or two
secondary
fuses. They should be checked after a power surge.
To assume that it is not worth repairing could also be inaccurate
without
even a cursory and basic diagnostic...... and in most shops it won't
cost
$40 to diagnosis..... I would be out my present business if I charged
that
amount to "evaluate" a VCR considering the current market conditions.
The
bigger shops that are busy with satellite and home theater and the shops
that don't want to mess around with low-end repairs and want to
discourage
VCR repairs may charge that much, but not all shops do this..... ask
around..

Just to second this, I have an Emerson VCR that I'm trying to fix an
unrelated problem with, and it does have three fuses in the power supply
area (it uses a STK regulator).

 

[Sam Goldwasser]

There is alikely a defrost timer, defrost thermostat, and defrost heater.
The timer is most likely to go but the other parts could also be bad.

Usually, there will be a schematic taped to the unit somewhere which will
have the wiring. Here is for GE fridges but unless yours is a fancy high
tech unit with a microprocessor to control everything, it probably applies
to a large extent. This is from the Small Appliance Repair Guide:

The most common type of defrost system on a no-frost refrigerator or freezer
usually consists of:

* Defrost timer - motor driven (typically) switch which selects between the
compressor and its associated devices (like the evaporator fan) and the
defrost heater (located adjacent to the evaporator coils). The timer motor
likely only runs when the main thermostat calls for cooling.

* Defrost heater - resistance element located in the evaporator compartment
to melt ice built up on the coils

* Defrost thermostat - closed when the temperature is below about 32 degrees
F to allow current to flow to the defrost heater. Shuts off once the ice
melts as indicated by the temperature rising above 32 degrees F.

Testing: It should be possible to easily identify the bad components. For
the following, it is assumed that the main thermostat is set such that the
compressor is on.

* Usually, it is possible to manually turn the defrost timer shaft (through
a hole in the timer case) with a finger or small screwdriver - try both
directions - one should rotate easily with a slight ratcheting sound until
a distinct 'click' is heard.

* The click indicates that the switch has changed position. The compressor
should shut off (or start up if it was stuck in defrost). Over 90% of the
rotation range enables the compressor with a short time (e.g., 20 minutes)
for defrost. The total time is several hours (6 typical).

* At this point, the defrost heater should come on if there is enough ice to
keep the defrost thermostat below 32 F. You will know it comes on because
there will be crackling sounds as ice melts and parts expand and the element
may even glow red/orange when hot. Water should start flowing to the drip
pan. If there is no sign of heating:

- Test (with power off) the resistance of the element - it should measure
under 100 ohms (31 ohms typical).

If open - at the terminals of the element - it is bad.

- Test (with power applied) for AC voltage across the element. If there is
none, test across the defrost thermostat - there should be none. Or, test
across the series combination of the defrost heater and thermostat.
There should be full line voltage across the series combination.

If there is still none, the contacts on the defrost timer may be bad, you
may be in the normal cycle by mistake, the main thermostat may be defective
or not calling for cooling, the wiring may be incorrect or have bad
connections, or there may be no power to the outlet.

If there is voltage across the defrost thermostat, it is defective or
the temperature is above 32 F. Confirm by jumpering across the defrost
thermostat and see if the defrost heater comes on.

* If ice buildup is modest, the defrost thermostat should shut off the heater
in a few minutes. In any case, the timer should advance and switch to the
normal position with the compressor running and defrost heater shut off in
about 10 to 20 minutes.

If the timer never advances, the motor is likely not running due to gummed
up lubrication, a broken or loose gear, or a broken wire. On some of these
timers, the connections to the motor are to the moving contacts and break
after a few years. These can be repaired by soldering them to a more stable
location.

One indication that the motor is not being powered is for it to be ice cold
even after several hours with the compressor (and thus the timer) being on.
Normally, the coil runs warm to hot. If the timer never advances even with
a toasty winding, the lubrication is gummed up or a gear has broken.

Defrost timers are readily available at appliance parts distributors. A
generic timer will cost about $12. An exact replacement, perhaps up to $35.
If you call in a service person, expect to pay over $100 for the part and
labor.

Generally, the defrost timer is an SPDT switch operated by a cam on a small
motor with a 4 to 8 hour cycle (depending on model). For an exact replacement,
just move the wires from the old timer to the same terminals on the new unit.
For a generic replacement, the terminal location may differ. Knowing what is
inside should enable you to determine the corresponding terminal locations
with a multimeter.

The terminal numbering and wire color code for the defrost timer in a typical
GE refrigerator is shown below:

Black (4)
Gray (3) /o---------o Normal position - Compressor, evaporator fan.
H* o-----+------/
| o---o Blue (2)
Timer | Defrost heater Defrost Thermostat
Motor (3180 o------------/\/\/\------------o/o----------+
| ohms) 31 ohms 32 F |
| |
| Orange (1) |
o---------------------------------------------------------+--o Common

* H is the Hot wire after passing through the main thermostat (cold control)
in the fresh food compartment.

Since the defrost timer only runs when the compressor is powered, it will
defrost more frequently when the fridge is doing more work and is likely to
collect more frost. This isn't perfect but seems to work.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ Home Page: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Site Info: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: The email address in this message header may no longer work. To
contact me, please use the Feedback Form at repairfaq.org. Thanks.


Bill Jeffrey <wjeffrey@alumNOSPAM.mit.edu> writes:

My Frigidaire FPI-170-TH-G (top freezer) has developed a defrost
problem.

Symptoms:
1. Over the course of a couple weeks, the unit begins to run longer and
longer, the amount of cold air coming out of the vent in the back of the
freezer slowly drops to nil, and things in the freezer begins to thaw.
2. The refrig and freezer compartments, and the door gaskets, do NOT
have a frost or water build-up.

Observation:
I slide out the plastic floor of the freezer. Underneath it are the
coils and fins that supply the cold air, and the fan that blows the cold
air across the fins and into the freezer compartment. The coils and
fins are completely choked with ice (frosty ice, not solid ice), to the
point where air cannot circulate.

Temporary fix:
I switch off the unit, melt the ice with a hair dryer, put it back
together, and all is well for a few more weeks. BTW, when I melt the
ice, the melt water properly runs through the drain tube and into the
evap tray down at floor level.

Conclusion:
There must be some sort of automatic defrost cycle that is intended to
prevent this from happening. Obviously, this operation does not happen.

Question:
What is the nature of the defrost cycle, and its control? Is there an
electric heater or heat tape that is supposed to come on once in a
while? Or is the compressor supposed to pump hot (uncooled) refrigerant
through the pipes once in a while? Is there a timer somewhere in here?

Any info (and a diagram!) would be much appreciated.

Thanks

Bill Jeffrey
--
Outgoing mail is automatically scanned by Norton Anti-Virus
Remove NOSPAM from my address before e-mailing a reply.

 

[Jerry G.]

You NEED a selector switch on the amp you want to use. If you put the
speakers together, damage to the output stages of both amps will occur,
and also the speakers may be damaged. This is not a good thing to try!

--

Greetings,

Jerry Greenberg GLG Technologies GLG
==============================================
WebPage http://www.zoom-one.com
Electronics http://www.zoom-one.com/electron.htm
Instruments http://www.zoom-one.com/glgtech.htm
==============================================
"Jon Scott" <prestwich@NSPearthlink.net> wrote in message
news:3F1CB38C.BD6CCCDE@NSPearthlink.net...
So my g.f. wants to use the same pair of speakers for two different amps
-- one music and one video source. She thinks she needs a selector
switch; I think she can wire the speakers to both amps simultaneously
without hurting the receivers or the speakers. Perhaps at loud volumes
with two different signals, the speakers might suffer, but assuming that
doesn't inadvertantly happen, I don't think it will hurt the music amp
to have a signal present at its unused output, whether its other output
is in use or not. (someone in the other room might be listening to music
on the A speakers while she's using the B speakers for a movie.)

Comments? I know there are other wiring options, and I know what they
are, I'm just wondering whether this one could be deleterious.

 

[Ricardo Matos Abreu]

You can't share anymore some binaries because your colleagues got a
better
computer with a newer software version and the file format is different.

Software again, not hardware.

Yes, correct. But I'm thinking in a computer as a whole. HW without SW is a
paperweight (usually a damn big one ).

It's not practical to hold back innovation so

stuff is forever backward compatible or we'd be treading water. People are
constantly crying out for new features, then they moan when a colleague's
document won't open in a 4 year old version of Word. They can't have it
both
ways.

It isn't a big deal for the home user (although it can be very annoying),
but can mean several hours (days!) wasted on work retrieving old files,
installing/uninstalling software, correcting errors, etc. When it comes to
text, sometimes copy/paste raw ascii from the binary may do the trick. Now
imagine something like a schematic editor for electronics. If you don't have
backward compatibility, you have to draw everything from the beggining.
IMHO backward compatibility should always exist. And I wouldn't call it
"hold back innovation". What if you couldn't read a book that you had
written yourself two years ago?

A PC has a useful life of at least 3 years, not bad considering how cheap
they are these days. I have installed and ran Windows XP on PII class PCs,
the last one a 400 MHz Celeron. Not lightning fast but it does the job.


The
paradigmatic example for me was Micro$oft's Word 6.0 (which was more or
less
a de facto standard by the time) and Microsoft Word 7.0. There was a
option
to save files in "Word 6.0" format, but everything was messed up. The
reverse was true: M$Word 6.0 files were messed when opened in 7.0.

And so on, and so on...


M$ are intent on buggering up 3rd party apps' capability to read their
file
formats, they want to take control of office file formats and dominate the
market. However, this isn't relevent to the OP's point, which was that it
was about the reliability and obsolescence of hardware.

Well, I think it is relevant since, as I stated before, HW needs SW.

And you can't, BY ANY CHANCE, to rely on your computer as you can rely
in
your car.


Why not?

How many times per year have you to "fix" (not necessarily HW, again)
something on your computer? And your car? If the numbers are close together,
either you have a hell of a reliable computer or a hell of a lousy car. (I
prefer the first option )
My computers has let me down at critical moments. My cars never did it. Yes,
it may happen, of course. But we're talking about reliability, so
probability.

Dave

 

[Dave D]

"Ricardo Matos Abreu" <no_spam_please_ricardo@avoiding_spam_av.it.pt> wrote
in message news:1058866763.202784@proxy2.ua.pt...

"Dave D" <someone@somewhere.com> wrote in message
news:bfhhb0$733$1@titan.btinternet.com...

"Doug Taylor" <techno2nospam@videotron.ca> wrote in message
news:slrnbho2vf.ll.techno2nospam@localhost.localdomain...

Imagine if you bought a car for $30,000 and in 1 year it
was worth $15,000 and in 2 years it was valued at $5,000.
That's exactly what happens in the world of computers today.
You buy a new system for $3,000 and in 2 years it's worth
$500. and in three it's a worthless antique.

Yes, but so what? Cars do exactly that- depreciate rapidly, as does just
about any electronic or mechanical gadget.


Yes, but five years later you're able to drive your car to the very same
places you could in the very first day. You can't access, for example,
plenty of sites with a 5 year old computer (not upgraded, of course)
because
those sites require the always demanding latest versions of Macromedia
Flash, Quicktime, etc...

Those plugins work fine on a 5 year old PC. In any case, plugins like Flash
are free, what's the problem? (Don't get me wrong, I hate sites which
require plugins, but that has little to do with the longevity of hardware).
I used a Pentium 233MMX / 64MB Ram laptop not so long ago and never came
across a website it wouldn't load the plugin for and run just fine. That
laptop had to be at least 5 years old, maybe older.

You can't share anymore some binaries because your colleagues got a better
computer with a newer software version and the file format is different.

Software again, not hardware. It's not practical to hold back innovation so
stuff is forever backward compatible or we'd be treading water. People are
constantly crying out for new features, then they moan when a colleague's
document won't open in a 4 year old version of Word. They can't have it both
ways.

A PC has a useful life of at least 3 years, not bad considering how cheap
they are these days. I have installed and ran Windows XP on PII class PCs,
the last one a 400 MHz Celeron. Not lightning fast but it does the job.

The
paradigmatic example for me was Micro$oft's Word 6.0 (which was more or
less
a de facto standard by the time) and Microsoft Word 7.0. There was a
option
to save files in "Word 6.0" format, but everything was messed up. The
reverse was true: M$Word 6.0 files were messed when opened in 7.0.

And so on, and so on...

M$ are intent on buggering up 3rd party apps' capability to read their file
formats, they want to take control of office file formats and dominate the
market. However, this isn't relevent to the OP's point, which was that it
was about the reliability and obsolescence of hardware.

And you can't, BY ANY CHANCE, to rely on your computer as you can rely in
your car.

Why not?

Dave

 

[Carol]

Sarah: I didn't want to repair it. I'm just curious about whether or
not it's dead and garbage. Why buy a new one if this one may be
workable? I just bought a new DVD VCR player, and I'm worried now that
this will happen again. I was under the impression that the surge
protector strips were supposed to keep our electronics from burning.
Guess that was a wrong assumption :-(( Thanks for replying to all.


"Sarah" <Nolsar@rogers.com> wrote in message news:<x3cTa.37328$zwL.29590@news04.bloor.is.net.cable.rogers.com>...

Why would anyone want to repair an emerson vcr? (especially a 2 head mono)
you can buy a brand new (better brand) 4 head hi-fi for $50.
"RCU" <nemesis@icequake.no_spam.net> wrote in message
newsan.2003.07.22.11.36.35.798230@icequake.no_spam.net...
On Mon, 21 Jul 2003 15:27:36 -0700, Sofie wrote:

TCS:
Your reply does not appear to be entirely correct......
Over the years there were many models of Emerson VCRs manufactured
......(
the OP did not include a model number)...... that had up to 3 fuses in
the
power supply...... one was the primary and there were one or two
secondary
fuses. They should be checked after a power surge.
To assume that it is not worth repairing could also be inaccurate
without
even a cursory and basic diagnostic...... and in most shops it won't
cost
$40 to diagnosis..... I would be out my present business if I charged
that
amount to "evaluate" a VCR considering the current market conditions.
The
bigger shops that are busy with satellite and home theater and the shops
that don't want to mess around with low-end repairs and want to
discourage
VCR repairs may charge that much, but not all shops do this..... ask
around..

Just to second this, I have an Emerson VCR that I'm trying to fix an
unrelated problem with, and it does have three fuses in the power supply
area (it uses a STK regulator).

 

[Colin McCormick]

Nigel

Thanks for the link. I could certainly
give them a try, but first I need to
know whether it is the tuner, or the
IF strip, or something else, which is
at fault. Fault finding is tricky!

Regards,

Colin

Nigel wrote:

Have a look at this page, it might help you get sorted at a very reasonable
cost

http://www.mces.co.uk/Tuners.htm


"Colin McCormick" <colin99@bigfoot.com> wrote in message
news:bf9gb1$40h$1@news6.svr.pol.co.uk...

x-no-archive:yes

I'm trying to repair an old Sanyo vhr-7260e
video recorder, UK model. There is virtually
no off-air picture or sound, just some lines
and occasional smatterings of sound when the
tuning is scanned.

This has three packs on the PCB:
Modulator / splitter
IF strip
Tuner

I eliminated the modulator / splitter by
taking the input to the tuner directly from
the UHF aerial, the results remained unchanged.

So the IF strip or tuner unit appears to be
suspect. Squirting freezer around them did
not help. I suspect the IF myself.

Does anyone have any experience of these machines,
and maybe be able to get me down to a component
level repair of the tuner or IF PCB's? New
replacements would be out of the question for
such an old machine.

Playback and recording from AV input is fine.
Thanks for any help, please copy my email
on any reply: colin99@bigfoot.com (spam
filters apply).

Thanks,

Colin

 

[bigmike]

"Kevin Aylward" <kevin@anasoft.co.uk> wrote in message
news:1xdTa.2208$751.457819@newsfep2-gui.server.ntli.net...

Haines Brown wrote:
Can consciousness be represented in physical terms? I'd like to return
to this point and offer a hypothesis, for it is one that interests
me. I'd then like to test that hypothesis in terms of what I take to
be our common understanding of what "consciousness" seems to imply.

First, the axioms. I start with the idea of an emergent (negentropic
process). Its state at any particular time will, I assume, be a
function of its initial state, of any subsequent external influences,
and of an element of randomness. That is, outcomes are
probabilistically related to an initial condition. Of course, I here
assume that a probabilistic causality can be an objective property of
things and not just an effect of our ignorance.

Now let's apply this to mental life. I posit the existence of three
memory registers in the mind: a) one records the initial state, b) one
records the present state of the mental system, c) and one records the
difference between these two states.

My hypothesis: this third memory is what we call consciousness. It is
the difference between an emergent mental state and its initial state
as a reflection of the world.

Does it satisfy what we intuitively think of as being consciousness?

Not really. I don't see this as being sufficient. Memory on its own
cannot be conscious. It requires some sort of processing of the memory
contents.

In classical mechanics, the key ideas are position and momentum. Knowing
both is sufficient to describe any situation. That is, you need to know
how things move, as well as where they are moved to. I suggest that the
brain and consciousness obeys the same laws. After all, the brain
consists of only the very same physical objects.

Brain memory information is located at different positions. Its effect
is dependant on where it is, and how it gets there. That is, all of
consciousness can be attributed to moving information from location to
location. From a classical point of view, it can not be any other way.
All we have is position and momentum. To suggest otherwise, would
require new physics.

Kevin Aylward

When a person listens to the music of a great composer, or looks at a
painting of a portrait by a great artist, or looks at the sunset on a
beautiful evening, all physics seems to go down to the tube. There is just
no way for science to explain what is happening here. We can, to some
degree, understand the mechanics of the mind, but not the power of thought
and the spirit of life. I use the term spirit, not as a religious meaning,
but as a symbol for consciousness, since science has no better terms to
explain it, nor does science understand it in any way whatsoever. If I could
explain what it is, I would, but it seems to defy logic, which just might be
true. I am not a religious person, so religion has nothing to do with my
opinions. I just feel that trying to explain the essence of
consciousness as a physical phenomenon may be futile.