Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[gothika]

This joker is already postal.
He's a convicted felon with hard time for felony assault.
That's ok, I'm ex-military and from the south.(EVERYBODY carries
here.)
I have no compunction to do what it takes to defend myself and mine.
This character has already attacked another tenant.
He bit her and has her so terrorized that's she won't file a
complaint.
I've started the wheels filing a complaint myself.
After my service years I worked CSU for the state police back home.
I put my skills to work have practically handed this guy to the local
PD.(Statements from the phone company verifiying phone theft.
Pics of all wiring as well as sworn statements from the other tenants
involved.)
The landlord and I had an eviction notice served on him.
He contested, we went to court today and the judge found in our favor.
On the way out after the hearing he made more threats to me.
He gotta be out by Saturday morning at 12:01 am.
He's been hammering out the drywall for the past week.(I'm sure the
apt. will be totally trashed by the time we actually get him out.)
I'll be running all the security cameras on the property 24/7 till
he's long gone.(He even installed plumbing for a washer dryer setup
without even asking, I'm thinking he took the wall out in the foyer to
do this as the unit is a small bachelor.)
He hasn't allowed anyone in the apartment since the hammering began a
couple of weeks ago. I'm sure he's afraid of the consequences as I'm
certain he's gone way beyond the security deposit in damage.
At any rate we're taking all the necessary precautions till we get
this lunatic out.



On Thu, 17 Jul 2003 09:52:41 +0100, Laurence Payne
<l@laurenceDELETEpayne.freeserve.co.uk> wrote:

Maybe it's time for another option and go on the offensive with counter
measures to disable his equipment. He's annoying you so you could be
smarter than him at annoying him in turn. For instance, wire up a tiny
high pitched noise maker that goes off briefly at random intervals.
If he isn't already, he'll go nuts trying to figure out what it is and
where it's coming from. Just don't push him over the brink, as people
like that sometimes go postal on you when you least expect it.

Postal? What, they attack you with envelopes?

 

[TV Fixer1]

Just ordered one for customer who had exactly the same problem. Part # is
8-598-431-00

 

[James Sweet]

How exactly are you going to "recycle" that 8086 PC? Who is going to
want any component from it, except maybe NASA trying to keep some
twenty year old spacecraft flying? How are you going to repair it if
it fails? Intel aren't going to build more chips just to keep
"repairable" PCs running.

Actually many of the parts from those old PC/XT's are quite useful and

getting more and more scarce. The RAM chips for example will work in any
classic Williams arcade machine, the power supply will work in many of them
as well, and Gottlieb used 8088 CPU chips in their games, lots of other
assorted parts can be used in various projects, there's stepper motors and
drive electronics in the disc drives, high voltage components in the
monitor, just an example of how useful something "worthless" can really be.

 

[George R. Gonzalez]

"Jimmy" <Gfender@carolina.rr.com> wrote in message
news:dweRa.241469$nr.9699112@twister.southeast.rr.com...

Occasionally one of these amps used to come into my shop with the output
tubes crispy fried. Usually this waas because the grid coupling caps were
shorted.

Shorted? Really? I see about onne shorted capacitor out of maybe 200 leaky
ones.

replace these with 600 volt units.

I did replace all the caps-- they were the pink Renee Witherspoon plastic
kind,
of which about 99.5% I've encountered have been very leaky. The capacitors,
not the actresses.

I wouldnt think an engineer would have much trouble
replacing these with something a little more economical, 6550's should be
a
good choice I think.

If they were just about any tube other than 8417's, then there are lots of
possible alternatives.
For example the 6L6, 6550, 7207, 6DQ6 series have roughly similar
characteristics.

But the 8417 was one of the highest-tech tubes made, with an incomparable
gm of 23,000! I don't know of any similar tubes.

This high a gm means that if we plugged in 6550's, the overall gain would go
down
more than 10DB, probably much more than the driver tube could make up.

Short of patching on one more preamp stage, I don't think plugging in any
other
tube type would work. Oh, and these tubes are being run at 625 volts, a bit
above
typical tube levels.


Regards,

George

 

[ShrikeBack]

"Kevin Aylward" <kevin@anasoft.co.uk> wrote in message news:<z_7Qa.19910$4O4.2190192@newsfep2-win.server.ntli.net>...

ShrikeBack wrote:


I think the standard response is that the past is in some sense
infinite. Namely, that the rules themselves (such as logic, and
those governing quantum vacuum fluctuations) have always been here.

I have run across those who believe the past is infinte, though
not in the context of determinism. Moreover, usually, those people
are talking about physical existence. I tell those people that
if the past were infinite, there would have been an infinity
of passing time before the present. Saying something will not
occur until an eternity has passed is equivalent to saying that
it will never happen. Thus, the present would never have been
reached.


This logic is inherently not usable. Its a 101 math standard fallacy.
When one discusses infinite, in general, all bets are off. Its only
specific examples that can be handled, by taking the limit as x-
infinite, and this requires that the function be continuous. Most logic
deduced by assuming infinite leads to contradictions, e.g. 1=0, so you
simply can't use an argument like the one you describe above.

If logic deduced by assuming infinity leads to contradictions, that
would mean infinity was something disproven by contradiction. Either
that, or logic is disprove by contradiction. Which do you prefer?

I actually prefer the idea that the universe has always existed, like
the continuous big bang and big crunch cycle e.g.

I can understand that.

1 Fact, there is mass-energy in the universe.
2 If there was a time when there was no mass-energy, i.e. truly zero
content to the universe, how could this mass-energy come into sudden
existence.?

I will just point out for you that QM has an interesting result
with regard to vacuum fluctuations. Virtual particles are
presumed to flip in and out of existence continually, violating
the law of energy conservation for tiny periods of time. It
has been suggested that the universe itself is one big vacuum
fluctuation. If the potential energy (which is negative) of
the universe had a high enough magnatude to offset the mass
energy of the universe, the overall net energy of the universe
could be zero. I think this requires a closed universe,
however.

A *true* empty universe, could not have an effect, by assumption, to
spark the mass energy creation. Note, a *true* *empty* universe is also
zero ZPE, by definition.

A truly empty universe would also have no constraints on what
could happen. If it were truly empty it would contain no laws
whatsover.

If an effect could happen without any cause whatsoever, i.e. magic, this
last objection can be ignored. However, despite my claim on what
standard QM states, I don't personally believe in magic.

To me, an infinite past seems a bit magical too. Particularly since
you provided us with a disproof of the reality of infinity.

You, however, are not referring to physical time, but something
else, where the rules wait in an eternal timelessness for the
moment of creation, in a manner of speaking. I am not convinced
that time can exist without events,

It cant. Time is nothing more then noting that something is in a
different position than it was before. For example, going back in time
is nothing more than putting all objects back in the same place as they
were before, except youself.

I have to agree that time without change is meaningless.

though, just as some have
claimed that space cannot exist without matter.

If by space you mean x,y,z distance, it doesn't. It cant. You cant, in
principle, determine position without mass-energy to mark reference
points.

This is the proposition to which I refer. I don't disagree with it.

If a rule
of logic exists in the void, but there is no one there to think
about it, does it really exist at all?

Thinking, i.e consciousness is irrelevant to existence. All mass-energy
is under the same rules of physics. Consciousness is no different, it
cant be. It is not special. All this conscious stuff that abounds in
some expositions of QM is all nonsense. It comes from when people were
daft enough to have ideas of souls and spirits and other such nebulous
nonsense. Consciousness is a result of normal physical processes, it
can't be any other way, well unless you believe in magic.

Does it strike you as ironic then, that consciousness, which is
constrained by the laws of physics, is considered to be capable
of fully explicating the laws of physics?

Of course, it cant be proved that the universes exists without someone
to observe it, but the evidence suggests that when anyone dies, the
universe still exists.

Agreed.

 

[tim]

"David" <dkuhajda@locl.net.spam> wrote in message news:<3f17b7c2@news.greennet.net>...

Possibly the aperature grille was damaged inside the tube from being dropped
too hard. Suggest you have a technician look at the set to determine if
that was the case.

You do not have the equipment, training, or experience to attempt any yoke
adjustments on a Sony WEGA tube, even if it did get shifted (which is
unlikely but possible).

David

tim <tfprusd@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:b609b525.0307171949.6f047e94@posting.google.com...
Hello, I just purchased a Sony Wega KV-27FS100 monitor.
It was bought privately (no warranty) and was shipped to me.
after connecting everything and turning it on, I noticed a large red
fuzzy discoloration in the lower left quarter of the screen and a
green fuzzy blotch on the right side. I've moved all speakers /
magnetic sources away from the TV, and I tried using a degaussing
coil, both of these did not improve the problem.
I guess the next step should be to open the back and try making
adjustments? i really don't have any futher troubleshooting skills
(aside from teh above mentioned). Are there certain things I should
try to fix this problem? I'm guessing that something was whacked out
of alignment during shipping. The seller claims there was no
discoloration before he shipped the unit.
Any thoughts? thanks in advance.

-tim

If the aperature grille was damaged would that mean a replacement of
that part?
Is this grill embedded into the screen to serve as a reference point
for the tube? thanks for any advice, just trying to get an idea of
what I might be up against.

 

[Gerald K4NHN]

Thanks Daniel
I tried all 3 places and it seems that they are no longer good numbers and
not listed any longer.

I went back to an old Sam's book and worked from there on some phone numbers
and got to a few Sanyo parts dist., but none of them had anything listed
with the model number that I have. I didn't see any thing is Sam's either.
Maybe this radio never existed and it's all in my dreams...

I've tried O-Rings and sewing machine belts that were close and even tried
cutting and gluing but no luck so far. Looks like it ready for the owner to
leave it out of the case and tune by hand.

Thanks ever so much.
Gerald K4NHN

"Sofie" <sofie@olypen.com> wrote in message
news:vh9j31hfdgu86e@corp.supernews.com...

Sanyo sells Sanyo parts.........
Regional office nearest to you
SFS Corporation (Sanyo)
Norcross, GA
770-925-8900
in case you can't reach them in GA, their
other regional office numbers are
IL 630-775-1414
NJ 201-641-3000
--
Best Regards,
Daniel Sofie
Electronics Supply & Repair
----------------------------------------


"Gerald K4NHN" <gcromer@usit.net> wrote in message
news:Co3Ra.3919$Mc.353348@newsread1.prod.itd.earthlink.net...
I'm trying to find a couple of drive belts for a Sanyo AM, FM, SW radio.
These are about 1/8" wide and about 5" around the outside and has 41
teeth
made into it.

Radio Model 16HA-862P

I've looked at many web pages and haven't found anything close. I don't
think an O-ring will work here.

Anyone know any place that sells Sanyo radio parts.

Gerald K4NHN
Cayce, SC

 

[Asimov]

"gothika" wrote to "All" (18 Jul 03 03:19:24)
--- on the topic of "Re: detecting phone taps?"

Was this a typo, "Bit" or "Hit"?
My advice: stay out of it, let the bailif/cops handle it, but get him out!


go> From: gothika <gothika@earthlink.net>

go> This joker is already postal.
go> He's a convicted felon with hard time for felony assault.
go> That's ok, I'm ex-military and from the south.(EVERYBODY carries
go> here.)
go> I have no compunction to do what it takes to defend myself and mine.
go> This character has already attacked another tenant.
go> He bit her and has her so terrorized that's she won't file a
go> complaint.

 

[jakdedert]

Tanya,

I've got an hl-630...I think it's very similar to yours. I've found if you
don't shut all the covers 'firmly' that the machine is not aware of it. I
have to SLAM the cover down on the top, and sometimes 'jiggle' the paper
cassette to get it to work.

All in all, it's been an exemplary performer considering it is nearly 10
years old...just a couple of quirks which confound us once in a while. I
think I'll probably replace it the next time it needs a drum...I think I've
only put a couple in there since I bought it used in '98 ($50); but
replacements are almost the price of a newer, faster printer (Samsung for
around $200).

jak
"tanya" <seeAddress@bot.tom> wrote in message
news:3F12D14A.92179289@bot.tom...

hello,
X-posted
trying to set up the aboveNamed printer onto a win98SE pc
windows found the drivers etc and hitting print seems to indicate
communication HOWEVER the printer keeps flashing "outOfPaper" (we have
paper in it but the printer doesn't *think* (sorry) so and the paper
feeder looks like it could / should hold several phone books in
thickness) -- so it is likely not set up correctly
what i need to find is a manual with a photo showing the paper feeder as
i believe we have it set up wrongly at the very least (there is no book
or photo with the printer)
thank you very much in advance!

--
toAnswerSend2:userName:tjtmd
domain:attglobal.net
separate these with the at sign

 

[jakdedert]

Not withstanding the below...you can get an 'idea' of the VC impedance with
an ohmeter...it will always be a few ohms below the actual ac impedance.
The frequencies involved are not so high as to make a major difference;
although the readings will not necessarily be the same for two dissimilar 8
ohm speakers (around 6 ohms), or speaker systems.

jak

"waxhead" <me@myplace.com> wrote in message
news:3f1685bd@dnews.tpgi.com.au...

Further, the impedence will vary across the frequency range of the
speaker. The quoted impedence is a nominal impedence. An 8ohm (nominal
impedence) speaker can quite easily have a coil resistance as low as
6.0ohm.

On Thu, 17 Jul 2003 19:13:42 +1000, Verdons wrote:

You are correct

"Denny B" <dmrbaptie@sprint.ca> wrote in message
news:53qRa.250$F9.1557@newscontent-01.sprint.ca...
Is it possible to measure Impedance with an ohm meter. For example can
you measure the Impedance of a 4 ohm car speaker with an ohm meter?

When I tell people they cannot measure Impedance with an ohm meter, you
need an impedance meter and the impedance must be measured with the
speaker in operation, with a signal generator supplying a fixed
frequency, this always leads to disagreements with the person who
demands an ohm meter to measure what he calls Impedance, when I tell
him an ohm meter can only measure the resistance of the coil there is
always disagreement.

I tell them Impedance is AC resistance and what they measure with an
ohm meter is DC resistance. Disagreement here again.

Will somebody take me up on this and clarify the situation.

Thanks in advance
Denny B

 

[Sofie]

tim:
It would mean a complete replacement of the CRT (Big Bucks $$$) and the
installation and alignment..... will easily cost much more than you paid
for the monitor.
--
Best Regards,
Daniel Sofie
Electronics Supply & Repair
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -


"tim" <tfprusd@yahoo.com> wrote in message

If the aperature grille was damaged would that mean a replacement of
that part?
Is this grill embedded into the screen to serve as a reference point
for the tube? thanks for any advice, just trying to get an idea of
what I might be up against.

 

[jakdedert]

You need to be able to monitor the output of the pream somehow to see if
it's noisey as well. However, since you stated that the headphone output
was clean (right?), likely the problem is later in the signal chain. If
not, one way to check that output is to record something from it on tape and
listen to the playback on known-good gear. Another way is to hook up a
cheap set of computer speakers there. You will need the a RCA to mini
stereo plug adaptor to do so....

jak

"Sharon Leigh" <sleigh@aol.com> wrote in message
news:YzJRa.4665$KZ.1480428@news1.news.adelphia.net...

Jeff,

It's a model 2120. It does have a pre-amp output, but I didn't test it.
I'm
not really sure what I need to do.

"Jeff" <frontline_electronics@NSatt.net> wrote in message
news:y9FRa.59888$3o3.3972922@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
Ok, if it has preamp output is it OK?
DC voltage across output when noisy?
Model? (strange the headphone would be OK)
Unless its only distorted/noisy when loaded.
Jeff

"Sharon Leigh" <sleigh@aol.com> wrote in message
news:WboRa.3034$KZ.1115395@news1.news.adelphia.net...
Yes, I swapped speakers. I also moved the set over to the B speaker
terminals. Guess what? Same problem.


"Jeff" <frontline_electronics@NSatt.net> wrote in message
news:31lRa.57999$0v4.3923232@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
Have you swapped the speakers?
Jeff

"Sharon Leigh" <sleigh@aol.com> wrote in message
news:k4eRa.1876$KZ.911568@news1.news.adelphia.net...
Yes, I do have sound in the bad channel. I think the best way to
describe
it
is that it sounds like a radio station that's not tuned in
properly.
It's
staticy and garbled.
"bigmike" <bigmike@cornhusker.net> wrote in message
news:3f14de13$0$24599$9a6e19ea@news.newshosting.com...

"Sharon Leigh" <sleigh@aol.com> wrote in message
news:VA4Ra.1371$KZ.745283@news1.news.adelphia.net...
I was just reading the post about the marantz receiver static
problem.
Mine's slightly different, in that it goes away when I turn
the
balance
all
the way left, and my headphones work fine. I cleaned every
conceivable
contact and circuit and still have the static. The receiver's
32
years
old
so I am suspecting something has died or fried along the way.
anyone
have
any ideas?


Lot's of possibilities. Dirty or worn speaker switch contacts,
bad
relay
(if the old amp uses one) contacts, dried up caps, leaky
transistors.
Headphones require very little power to produce sound, so some
problems
in
the output stage might not show up when using them. By the way,
do
you
have
sound through the bad channel along with the static, or just
static?

 

[Mike Russell]

jakdedert wrote:

Not withstanding the below...you can get an 'idea' of the VC
impedance with an ohmeter...it will always be a few ohms below the
actual ac impedance. The frequencies involved are not so high as to
make a major difference; although the readings will not necessarily
be the same for two dissimilar 8 ohm speakers (around 6 ohms), or
speaker systems.

I would add that you can measure impedance precisely by driving the speaker
at a particular frequency, and measuring the ac voltage and current with
your VOM..

Which begs another question: will playing normal audio material through a
speaker, and measuring the ac voltage and current match the nominal
impedence reasonably well, say within 10%?

--

Mike Russell
http://www.curvemeister.com
http://www.zocalo.net/~mgr
http://geigy.2y.net

"waxhead" <me@myplace.com> wrote in message
news:3f1685bd@dnews.tpgi.com.au...
Further, the impedence will vary across the frequency range of the
speaker. The quoted impedence is a nominal impedence. An 8ohm
(nominal impedence) speaker can quite easily have a coil resistance
as low as
6.0ohm.

On Thu, 17 Jul 2003 19:13:42 +1000, Verdons wrote:

You are correct

"Denny B" <dmrbaptie@sprint.ca> wrote in message
news:53qRa.250$F9.1557@newscontent-01.sprint.ca...
Is it possible to measure Impedance with an ohm meter. For example
can you measure the Impedance of a 4 ohm car speaker with an ohm
meter?

When I tell people they cannot measure Impedance with an ohm
meter, you need an impedance meter and the impedance must be
measured with the speaker in operation, with a signal generator
supplying a fixed frequency, this always leads to disagreements
with the person who demands an ohm meter to measure what he calls
Impedance, when I tell him an ohm meter can only measure the
resistance of the coil there is always disagreement.

I tell them Impedance is AC resistance and what they measure with
an ohm meter is DC resistance. Disagreement here again.

Will somebody take me up on this and clarify the situation.

Thanks in advance
Denny B

 

[LASERandDVDfan]

If the aperature grille was damaged would that mean a replacement of
that part?
Is this grill embedded into the screen to serve as a reference point
for the tube? thanks for any advice, just trying to get an idea of
what I might be up against.

The aperture grille is part of the picture tube and cannot be repaired when
damaged. In the event that the aperture grille, or shadow mask for
non-Trinitron and non-Diamondtron picture tubes, has shifted, this means the
tube is not only damaged and cannot be repaired, but is also a dangerous
implosion hazard and should not be used anymore.

Repair will involve replacement of the picture tube and recalibration of
geometry and convergence, a very expensive proposition.

Hopefully, the item was insured to cover shipping mishaps, which is the usual
cause of such damage. - Reinhart

 

[Jeff]

You can remove the Pre-amp out/main in jumpers and
using a known good RCA cable feed the suspect side
to the good channel, if the good channel stays quite then
the problem is in the output section. (right fed to left)
Make sure unit is off and volume is down when making
these connections.
Note: tape out is not feed thru tone sections.
So it must be pre/main RCA connections only.
I do not have the service manual to check.
Jeff

"Sharon Leigh" <sleigh@aol.com> wrote in message
news:YzJRa.4665$KZ.1480428@news1.news.adelphia.net...

Jeff,

It's a model 2120. It does have a pre-amp output, but I didn't test it.
I'm
not really sure what I need to do.

"Jeff" <frontline_electronics@NSatt.net> wrote in message
news:y9FRa.59888$3o3.3972922@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
Ok, if it has preamp output is it OK?
DC voltage across output when noisy?
Model? (strange the headphone would be OK)
Unless its only distorted/noisy when loaded.
Jeff

"Sharon Leigh" <sleigh@aol.com> wrote in message
news:WboRa.3034$KZ.1115395@news1.news.adelphia.net...
Yes, I swapped speakers. I also moved the set over to the B speaker
terminals. Guess what? Same problem.


"Jeff" <frontline_electronics@NSatt.net> wrote in message
news:31lRa.57999$0v4.3923232@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
Have you swapped the speakers?
Jeff

"Sharon Leigh" <sleigh@aol.com> wrote in message
news:k4eRa.1876$KZ.911568@news1.news.adelphia.net...
Yes, I do have sound in the bad channel. I think the best way to
describe
it
is that it sounds like a radio station that's not tuned in
properly.
It's
staticy and garbled.
"bigmike" <bigmike@cornhusker.net> wrote in message
news:3f14de13$0$24599$9a6e19ea@news.newshosting.com...

"Sharon Leigh" <sleigh@aol.com> wrote in message
news:VA4Ra.1371$KZ.745283@news1.news.adelphia.net...
I was just reading the post about the marantz receiver static
problem.
Mine's slightly different, in that it goes away when I turn
the
balance
all
the way left, and my headphones work fine. I cleaned every
conceivable
contact and circuit and still have the static. The receiver's
32
years
old
so I am suspecting something has died or fried along the way.
anyone
have
any ideas?


Lot's of possibilities. Dirty or worn speaker switch contacts,
bad
relay
(if the old amp uses one) contacts, dried up caps, leaky
transistors.
Headphones require very little power to produce sound, so some
problems
in
the output stage might not show up when using them. By the way,
do
you
have
sound through the bad channel along with the static, or just
static?

 

[Jeff]

Not really, the tone section is after preamp but before
amp. It will be connected before pre/main in/out if the
unit has that.
Jeff

"jakdedert" <jdedert@bellsouth.net> wrote in message
news:grXRa.697$wv6.498@fe03.atl2.webusenet.com...

You need to be able to monitor the output of the pream somehow to see if
it's noisey as well. However, since you stated that the headphone output
was clean (right?), likely the problem is later in the signal chain. If
not, one way to check that output is to record something from it on tape
and
listen to the playback on known-good gear. Another way is to hook up a
cheap set of computer speakers there. You will need the a RCA to mini
stereo plug adaptor to do so....

jak

"Sharon Leigh" <sleigh@aol.com> wrote in message
news:YzJRa.4665$KZ.1480428@news1.news.adelphia.net...
Jeff,

It's a model 2120. It does have a pre-amp output, but I didn't test it.
I'm
not really sure what I need to do.

"Jeff" <frontline_electronics@NSatt.net> wrote in message
news:y9FRa.59888$3o3.3972922@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
Ok, if it has preamp output is it OK?
DC voltage across output when noisy?
Model? (strange the headphone would be OK)
Unless its only distorted/noisy when loaded.
Jeff

"Sharon Leigh" <sleigh@aol.com> wrote in message
news:WboRa.3034$KZ.1115395@news1.news.adelphia.net...
Yes, I swapped speakers. I also moved the set over to the B speaker
terminals. Guess what? Same problem.


"Jeff" <frontline_electronics@NSatt.net> wrote in message
news:31lRa.57999$0v4.3923232@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
Have you swapped the speakers?
Jeff

"Sharon Leigh" <sleigh@aol.com> wrote in message
news:k4eRa.1876$KZ.911568@news1.news.adelphia.net...
Yes, I do have sound in the bad channel. I think the best way to
describe
it
is that it sounds like a radio station that's not tuned in
properly.
It's
staticy and garbled.
"bigmike" <bigmike@cornhusker.net> wrote in message
news:3f14de13$0$24599$9a6e19ea@news.newshosting.com...

"Sharon Leigh" <sleigh@aol.com> wrote in message
news:VA4Ra.1371$KZ.745283@news1.news.adelphia.net...
I was just reading the post about the marantz receiver
static
problem.
Mine's slightly different, in that it goes away when I turn
the
balance
all
the way left, and my headphones work fine. I cleaned every
conceivable
contact and circuit and still have the static. The
receiver's
32
years
old
so I am suspecting something has died or fried along the
way.
anyone
have
any ideas?


Lot's of possibilities. Dirty or worn speaker switch contacts,
bad
relay
(if the old amp uses one) contacts, dried up caps, leaky
transistors.
Headphones require very little power to produce sound, so some
problems
in
the output stage might not show up when using them. By the
way,
do
you
have
sound through the bad channel along with the static, or just
static?

 

[turtle]

Perhaps I should explain why....... My original odometer failed and I have
a replacement unit with more milage on it than my failed unit.... therfore
I wish to reprogram the odometer to match my original milage

Cheers

"Gary Tait" <taitg@hurontel.on.ca> wrote in message
news:3l3ghvss29hvjkt6o86m7v4ctegg6oe4lh@4ax.com...

On Fri, 18 Jul 2003 22:42:26 +1000, "turtle" <speedturtle@mail.com
wrote:

Is there anyone in Australia that can reprogram a Suzuki Hayabusa
odometer.

If not.... does anyone have any advice on how I can get this done?

I have dismantled the speedo cluster and have noticed 4 IC's in total.
The
smallest one has 8 pins and has the following numbers on it 945B 924,
would
this be the eeprom which stores the milage?

Please... any help on this topic would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers


Doing that would be illegal in many places.

 

[William R. Walsh]

Hi!

I'm sure it is perfectly possible, but I don't know if any "difficult to
tamper with odometer ICs" (do you like my description? ;-) ) exist or not.

My guess is that if you can find out what it is and somehow read its
contents...then you can change it.

As least as far as the US is concerned (as per what's found in many
automobile manuals) you CAN legally reprogram a replacement odometer to the
mileage of the old one if it's known. If not, then the new odometer is set
at zeroes and a note is placed on the door stating the last known original
mileage or that the odometer was replaced and does not represent actual
mileage.

Beyond a point I don't even think it really matters...most of my vehicles
that have been 100K miles or have odometers that are reading accurately but
in excess of their mechanical limits. I only know the actual mileage of one
of them because I have owned that vehicle since it was new...

I have one that tried rolling over all of its digits to reflect another
100K miles and it has been stuck with the numbers visibly "popping" and
clicking ever since....I guess something inside broke...

William

 

[Jeff]

Places that repair them can do that.
but will they? no, proably not.
Jeff

"turtle" <speedturtle@mail.com> wrote in message
news:3f17e94f$0$26534$afc38c87@news.optusnet.com.au...

Is there anyone in Australia that can reprogram a Suzuki Hayabusa
odometer.

If not.... does anyone have any advice on how I can get this done?

I have dismantled the speedo cluster and have noticed 4 IC's in total.
The
smallest one has 8 pins and has the following numbers on it 945B 924,
would
this be the eeprom which stores the milage?

Please... any help on this topic would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers

 

[Jeff]

Same reply.
But call and ask first.
Kinda screws with the idea of junkyard parts replacement
on some items nowadays?
Jeff

"turtle" <speedturtle@mail.com> wrote in message
news:3f187c44$0$26534$afc38c87@news.optusnet.com.au...

Perhaps I should explain why....... My original odometer failed and I
have
a replacement unit with more milage on it than my failed unit....
therfore
I wish to reprogram the odometer to match my original milage

Cheers

"Gary Tait" <taitg@hurontel.on.ca> wrote in message
news:3l3ghvss29hvjkt6o86m7v4ctegg6oe4lh@4ax.com...
On Fri, 18 Jul 2003 22:42:26 +1000, "turtle" <speedturtle@mail.com
wrote:

Is there anyone in Australia that can reprogram a Suzuki Hayabusa
odometer.

If not.... does anyone have any advice on how I can get this done?

I have dismantled the speedo cluster and have noticed 4 IC's in total.
The
smallest one has 8 pins and has the following numbers on it 945B 924,
would
this be the eeprom which stores the milage?

Please... any help on this topic would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers


Doing that would be illegal in many places.