Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[Verdons]

You are correct

"Denny B" <dmrbaptie@sprint.ca> wrote in message
news:53qRa.250$F9.1557@newscontent-01.sprint.ca...

Is it possible to measure Impedance with an ohm meter.
For example can you measure the Impedance of a 4 ohm
car speaker with an ohm meter?

When I tell people they cannot measure Impedance with an
ohm meter, you need an impedance meter and the impedance
must be measured with the speaker in operation, with a signal generator
supplying a fixed frequency, this always leads to disagreements
with the person who demands an ohm meter to measure what he calls
Impedance, when I tell him an ohm meter can only measure the resistance
of the coil there is always disagreement.

I tell them Impedance is AC resistance and what they measure
with an ohm meter is DC resistance. Disagreement here again.

Will somebody take me up on this and clarify the situation.

Thanks in advance
Denny B

 

[Damir]

Yes,you are correct.
Impedance is complex resistance.

Damir


On Wed, 16 Jul 2003 22:59:29 -0600, "Denny B" <dmrbaptie@sprint.ca> wrote:

Is it possible to measure Impedance with an ohm meter.
For example can you measure the Impedance of a 4 ohm
car speaker with an ohm meter?

When I tell people they cannot measure Impedance with an
ohm meter, you need an impedance meter and the impedance
must be measured with the speaker in operation, with a signal generator
supplying a fixed frequency, this always leads to disagreements
with the person who demands an ohm meter to measure what he calls
Impedance, when I tell him an ohm meter can only measure the resistance
of the coil there is always disagreement.

I tell them Impedance is AC resistance and what they measure
with an ohm meter is DC resistance. Disagreement here again.

Will somebody take me up on this and clarify the situation.

Thanks in advance
Denny B

--------------
Regards,
Damir
--------------

 

[Freddy]

Could be a piece of lint or foreign matter blocking the laser beam. If that

printer has a mirror that reflects the laser beam to the cartridge drum
try
cleaning it. Some printers have tool with a piece of felt on it that you
run across the mirror. Also clean the transfer corona roller with a lint
free cloth. Don't use any solution. And try cleaning the static
eliminator
teeth with a brush. Also check around the front opening of the scanner if
you can get at it without removing the covers. Hope this helps
"Steve Wechsler" <swechsler@bigfoot.com> wrote in message

news:af93772d.0307160943.397d7662@posting.google.com...

My laserjet 6L has a light (i.e. absence of toner) streak going down
the page, about 1.5 inches from the left side. The streak is about
1/16" wide. I've tried swapping in a new toner cartridge (confirmed
good on another printer) but it didn't solve the problem. Any ideas?

Thanks,

Steve

 

[Mark D. Zacharias]

If you want to dance, you'll have to pay the piper. I doubt you can get this
on PDF. Welcome to the exciting world of electronics repair.

mz


"Wim De Bruyn" <wim_debruyn@pandora.be> wrote in message
news:CtrRa.14837$F92.1492@afrodite.telenet-ops.be...

If I wish to spend mony on it , I would have done that ...

Maybe someone has a PDF- file of it ?

wim


"Alex" <no@no.spam.com.au> schreef in bericht
news:bf54st$qnb$1@lust.ihug.co.nz...
Contact Pioneer Spare Parts and order the service manual.

al.

"Wim De Bruyn" <wim_debruyn@pandora.be> wrote in message
news:0vhRa.14084$F92.1544@afrodite.telenet-ops.be...
Who can help (read provide) me with the schematics of this subject ?

It is a dubbel cd player ...

wim_debruyn@pandora.be

 

[John Bachman]

On Wed, 16 Jul 2003 22:59:29 -0600, "Denny B" <dmrbaptie@sprint.ca>
wrote:

Is it possible to measure Impedance with an ohm meter.
For example can you measure the Impedance of a 4 ohm
car speaker with an ohm meter?

When I tell people they cannot measure Impedance with an
ohm meter, you need an impedance meter and the impedance
must be measured with the speaker in operation, with a signal generator
supplying a fixed frequency, this always leads to disagreements
with the person who demands an ohm meter to measure what he calls
Impedance, when I tell him an ohm meter can only measure the resistance
of the coil there is always disagreement.

I tell them Impedance is AC resistance and what they measure
with an ohm meter is DC resistance. Disagreement here again.

Will somebody take me up on this and clarify the situation.

Impedance is the algebraic sum of the dc resistance and ac reactance.

An ohmmeter measures only the dc resistance and cannot measure
impedance.

You are correct.

John

 

[Sharon Leigh]

Thanks, Mike, I will try that. I am trying to learn more about audio
electronics (I haven't touched an oscilloscope or ohmmeter in about eight
years, since my days in computer school), but I fear I don't have the
patience for big problems...


"bigmike" <bigmike@cornhusker.net> wrote in message
news:3f1647fa$0$24508$9a6e19ea@news.newshosting.com...

I meant to say tap on the board lightly, not tap on the board lighting

"bigmike" <bigmike@cornhusker.net> wrote in message news:...

"Sharon Leigh" <sleigh@aol.com> wrote in message
news:_vqRa.3080$KZ.1156851@news1.news.adelphia.net...
I have done a pretty thorough visual inspection. Don't see any bad
solder
at
the speaker terminals. No obvious burn marks or smells. I really don't
think
the receiver is worth the effort to fix unless it's something fairly
simple,
which it apparently isn't. I am, however, going to go through the
boards
one
more time with a magnifying glass to see if there's something I
missed.

Thanks for your help everyone.

Most of the time, a problem like this has no visual indications. A
transistor or cap can be defective without any outward signs of a
problem.
Something you might want to try is tapping on the board lighting with
the
end of something plastic, like the reverse end of an ink pin, while the
amp
is on. See if you hear the noise problem change. A bad solder joint
could
be
just about anywhere on the board, not just at the speaker connections,
and
cause the problem. If you have limited abilities at troubleshooting,
then
it's true, you will have to make a judgement call on whether it's worth
repairing or not. But, if your interested in learning more about
electronics, this amp would make a nice place to start.




"bigmike" <bigmike@cornhusker.net> wrote in message
news:3f16179f$0$24529$9a6e19ea@news.newshosting.com...

"Sharon Leigh" <sleigh@aol.com> wrote in message
news:WboRa.3034$KZ.1115395@news1.news.adelphia.net...
Yes, I swapped speakers. I also moved the set over to the B
speaker
terminals. Guess what? Same problem.

Then it's time to start trouble shooting. No particular "common
part"
is
the cause of that problem. Any switch on the front of that unit can
have
dirty contacts and cause static. Be sure to try them all to see if
they
have
an effect, including the tone controls. They all have seperate
contacts
for
each channel. If it's not the switches, then I would check the board
for
any
bad solder joints. After that, it requires basic troubleshooting
skills,
a
few basic pieces of test gear, and some basic electronic skills. By
the
way,
what does this static sound like? Is it like a hiss, or is it a
frying
sound? A frying sound tend to point one toward a bad transistor(s)
in
the
output stage. Maybe you could explain the sound a little better.


"Jeff" <frontline_electronics@NSatt.net> wrote in message
news:31lRa.57999$0v4.3923232@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
Have you swapped the speakers?
Jeff

"Sharon Leigh" <sleigh@aol.com> wrote in message
news:k4eRa.1876$KZ.911568@news1.news.adelphia.net...
Yes, I do have sound in the bad channel. I think the best way
to
describe
it
is that it sounds like a radio station that's not tuned in
properly.
It's
staticy and garbled.
"bigmike" <bigmike@cornhusker.net> wrote in message
news:3f14de13$0$24599$9a6e19ea@news.newshosting.com...

"Sharon Leigh" <sleigh@aol.com> wrote in message
news:VA4Ra.1371$KZ.745283@news1.news.adelphia.net...
I was just reading the post about the marantz receiver
static
problem.
Mine's slightly different, in that it goes away when I
turn
the
balance
all
the way left, and my headphones work fine. I cleaned every
conceivable
contact and circuit and still have the static. The
receiver's
32
years
old
so I am suspecting something has died or fried along the
way.
anyone
have
any ideas?


Lot's of possibilities. Dirty or worn speaker switch
contacts,
bad
relay
(if the old amp uses one) contacts, dried up caps, leaky
transistors.
Headphones require very little power to produce sound, so
some
problems
in
the output stage might not show up when using them. By the
way,
do
you
have
sound through the bad channel along with the static, or just
static?

 

[waxhead]

Further, the impedence will vary across the frequency range of the
speaker. The quoted impedence is a nominal impedence. An 8ohm (nominal
impedence) speaker can quite easily have a coil resistance as low as
6.0ohm.

On Thu, 17 Jul 2003 19:13:42 +1000, Verdons wrote:

You are correct

"Denny B" <dmrbaptie@sprint.ca> wrote in message
news:53qRa.250$F9.1557@newscontent-01.sprint.ca...
Is it possible to measure Impedance with an ohm meter. For example can
you measure the Impedance of a 4 ohm car speaker with an ohm meter?

When I tell people they cannot measure Impedance with an ohm meter, you
need an impedance meter and the impedance must be measured with the
speaker in operation, with a signal generator supplying a fixed
frequency, this always leads to disagreements with the person who
demands an ohm meter to measure what he calls Impedance, when I tell
him an ohm meter can only measure the resistance of the coil there is
always disagreement.

I tell them Impedance is AC resistance and what they measure with an
ohm meter is DC resistance. Disagreement here again.

Will somebody take me up on this and clarify the situation.

Thanks in advance
Denny B

 

[petrus bitbyter]

"Denny B" <dmrbaptie@sprint.ca> schreef in bericht
news:53qRa.250$F9.1557@newscontent-01.sprint.ca...

Is it possible to measure Impedance with an ohm meter.
For example can you measure the Impedance of a 4 ohm
car speaker with an ohm meter?

When I tell people they cannot measure Impedance with an
ohm meter, you need an impedance meter and the impedance
must be measured with the speaker in operation, with a signal generator
supplying a fixed frequency, this always leads to disagreements
with the person who demands an ohm meter to measure what he calls
Impedance, when I tell him an ohm meter can only measure the resistance
of the coil there is always disagreement.

I tell them Impedance is AC resistance and what they measure
with an ohm meter is DC resistance. Disagreement here again.

Will somebody take me up on this and clarify the situation.

Thanks in advance
Denny B



Denny,

It's an understandable misunderstanding. The resistance of an conventional
speaker is some Ohms. It's an aircoil with only some microhenry of
selfinduction and only some pF or less capacity. So if you measure the
resistance you can easily distinguish between a 4Ohm and an 8Ohm speaker for
instance. As a rule of thumb you may say that the resistance and the
impedance will be almost the same.

The real story of measuring impedances you described already. (Although the
practice of this measurements is more complicated.) More expensive speakers
often come with a impedance characteristic measured under well defined
circumstances. You will find impedance depends on frequency (Amongst other
things). If you do the same measurements in changed circumstances, another
box for instance, you will find other results.

But.... There are a lot of people out there knowing everything better. They
heard about the rule of thumb, take it for the whole truth and never ever
realize what impedance means anyhow. I consider discussions with this people
useless. Their knowledge of electricity and electronics is below the level
needed for exchanging arguments. As they want neither listen nor learn
you're only waisting your time.

pieter






---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.497 / Virus Database: 296 - Release Date: 4-7-2003

 

[TCS]

<html><input type crash></html>
begin On 16 Jul 2003 01:12:32 GMT, Michael Black <f> wrote:

TCS (The.Central.Scrutinizer@p.o.b.o.x.com) writes:
html><input type crash></html
begin On Tue, 15 Jul 2003 07:33:32 GMT, gothika <gothika@earthlink.net> wrote:

I agree, having idiots on the sales floor is extremely annoying.
However if the sign out on hte the front of the store says Radio
Shack, a name that for many years was synonomous with electronics
part, then you damn well ought to have PARTS!
I can remember when they actually had just about any part or component
you could want for home electronics repair or hobby work.

When was that? Even in the mid 70's, radio shack was pretty much
worthless for repairs or hobby work. I don't think RS has ever had
a selection of more than 20 integrated circuits.

People still seem to be thinking in terms of Radio Shack before Tandy
bought it. It was a small regional chain in the Boston area.

But that was over thirty years ago, maybe more like forty years.

Back then there was also lafayette electronics. They went under by the
early 80's.

 

[Ralph Wade Phillips]

Howdy!

"gothika" <gothika@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:1lechvknij0g01n3vfe9u78nt3on20f1gu@4ax.com...

60's and early 70's. They carried parts from Allied electronics.
If you're old enough to remember Allied, then you know that they were
out of Britain and had quite a catalog, I actually purchased parts to
fix pioneer stereo's from allied, many came right out of a Radio Shack
store.

<blink> Chicago, Illinois is out of BRITAIN? Damn, must of totally
spaced my geography classes - I always thought that was part of the USA.

BTW - Allied was formed in the USA in the 30's. Don't doubt they
had a UK branch ...

Radio Shack OWNED Allied for a while, too.

RwP

 

[Ralph Wade Phillips]

Howdy!

"gothika" <gothika@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:hqechvcmeclclsln1skteqei88kala9f5t@4ax.com...

Tandy bought them out in the early 70's.

You seem to have misspelled 1964 there.

RwP

 

[Ray]

The tuner for this model TV has been subbed by Sony several times. The
current P/N for replacement is 8-598-047-50 and lists for $116.25. Add
labor to part cost and the VCR method may be the preferred way to solve
problem

"hoss" <mulletman1968@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:bf58lj$jsj$1@news-int.gatech.edu...

How much does something like that take to fix?

"David" <dkuhajda@locl.net.spam> wrote in message
news:3f163f30@news.greennet.net...
Tuner is bad in the tv set. The UHF section of the tuner is not working
at
all. High band cable channels are usually tuned by the UHF section in
the
tuner starting somewhere around channel 50 give or take.
hoss <mulletman1968@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:bf505i$er1$1@news-int.gatech.edu...
thank you again for your help. typing in higher channels (those
offered
my
provider), followed by pressing "ENTER," was of course on of the first
things I tried. that followed by reprogramming which hasn't changed
anything.

again, other TVs connected to my cable do receive all the channels
provided
by our cable company (2-119). And the problem remains for my TV when I
plug
it into other cables around the building, it doesn't receive above 47.


a sure solution is of course what Bigmike suggested by getting a vcr
to
change the channels. but i am now mostly interested in what's wrong
with
my
TV and would like to fix it.





"Sofie" <sofie@olypen.com> wrote in message
news:vhbojs4v493db8@corp.supernews.com...
boss / Adam:
Yes.... it should be receiving all the cable channels.....
try, with the remote to punch in .... say... channel 49, 52, etc...
or
some
upper channel ..... BE CERTAIN to press the ENTER button after you
punch
in
the channel number. If you can receive the channel that you have
just
manually enter then it is just a simple matter of ADDING the
channels
to
the
channel memory.... should be a (+) or (-) button on the remote or
on
the
television or an on screen menu that lets you add or delete
channels.
Let
us know what you find out.
--
Best Regards,
Daniel Sofie
Electronics Supply & Repair

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -


"hoss" <mulletman1968@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:bf4n23$a2i$1@news-int.gatech.edu...
The model number of my sony is KV-13M10. it was manufactured in
aug
1995.
what dose this tell you about my TV? Should it be receiving above
47
channels?

"Sofie" <sofie@olypen.com> wrote in message
news:vhbacj7m435f9d@corp.supernews.com...
hoss / Adam::
If you can provide a model number I think you might get some
more
specific
advice..... obviously not all Sony 13" televisions were
designed
and
built
the same.
Cable television channels over the years have expanded several
times
as
allowed by FCC rules..... so in the earlier years the
television
manufacturers did not build capability into a television that
was
not
needed.... or was not even an issue.
Depending on the features and design of your television and how
old
it
is,
up to cable channel 47 just may be all it can receive.....
slightly
older
televisions may have only gone up to cable channel 36, and older
than
that
maybe cable channel 22.
--
Best Regards,
Daniel Sofie
Electronics Supply & Repair


- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -


"hoss" <mulletman1968@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:bf485l$1mi$1@news-int.gatech.edu...
I have a sony trintiron 13'' TV. unfortunately I don't know
the
year.
for
some reason I can't get any channel above 47 on it while about
100
channels
are available when another TV is connected to the same cable.
in
addition
the problem still remaines when the problematic sony is
connected
to
anyother cable. Of course I've tried reprogramming the TV but
that
doesn't
work. it doesn't even receive the higher channels when they
are
specifically
typed into the remote, just static.

I wonder if anyone has any advice on what the problem may be
and
how
to
fix
it aside from getting a new TV.


Thank you very much,
Adam



mulletman1968@hotmail.com

 

[Patch]

"Denny B" <dmrbaptie@sprint.ca> wrote in message
news:53qRa.250$F9.1557@newscontent-01.sprint.ca...

Is it possible to measure Impedance with an ohm meter.
For example can you measure the Impedance of a 4 ohm
car speaker with an ohm meter?

When I tell people they cannot measure Impedance with an
ohm meter, you need an impedance meter and the impedance
must be measured with the speaker in operation, with a signal generator
supplying a fixed frequency, this always leads to disagreements
with the person who demands an ohm meter to measure what he calls
Impedance, when I tell him an ohm meter can only measure the resistance
of the coil there is always disagreement.

I tell them Impedance is AC resistance and what they measure
with an ohm meter is DC resistance. Disagreement here again.

Will somebody take me up on this and clarify the situation.

Thanks in advance
Denny B



You are 100% correct.

 

[Michael Black]

gothika (gothika@earthlink.net) writes:

Tandy bought them out in the early 70's.

No, it was earlier, though I don't have a complete enough set of magazine

back issues to place exactly when.

As I said, Radio Shack was a small regional chain selling parts (and some
equipment) in the Boston area.

At some point in the sixties, they were bought by Tandy. By 1968, they
were owned by Tandy, and were running 15 page "catalogs" in Elementary
Electronics. The mailing address was Fort Worth, TX.
Well, the November 1967 issue of Popular Electronics has an RS ad,
and the mailing address is Fort Worth, though no specific mention of
Tandy. However, it sure looks like they've had time to move up
from the regional chain.

I can't find ads for Radio Shack in the magazines I do have from earlier
in the sixties, so I don't know exactly when the takeover occurred.
Someone once suggested 1963, but I have no way of verifying that.

And to negate a common myth, Allied never owned Radio Shack. For
a brief while in the early seventies, the two were merged and were
called "Allied Radio Shack". But it did not last long, I gather
because the US government forced Tandy to sell off Allied. But ads
from 1971 did have the "Allied Radio Shack" label.

Michael

 

[Leonard G. Caillouet]

Look fo a couple of leaky cap, likely 2.2uF, c5a1, c5a2. Check all of the
related electrolytics carefully, and resolder the output ICs.

Leonard Caillouet

"Chris Weiler" <wma_cweiler@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:H%xRa.624$gT.369889416@newssvr12.news.prodigy.com...

Hey Guys,

I have a VS-45VA1 that came in with the typical dark video with low sync.
After replacing the caps on the PIP module and rebuilding the faulty
traces,
I noticed a slight horizontal pincushion problem. I thought I could
adjust
it out but cant.

The controls on the PCC board all work, so the board is working fine. I
just cant get out the Bow. Must be a fault in the reference coming from
the
horizontal. Any one know of a quick check or have seen a similar problem?

Thanks Chris.

 

[Mike Berger]

If you're not willing to spend money on it, why do you need a schematic?
Are you going to ask for the parts too? (We'll send PDF's)

Wim De Bruyn wrote:

If I wish to spend mony on it , I would have done that ...

Maybe someone has a PDF- file of it ?

 

[Clifton T. Sharp Jr.]

gothika wrote:

60's and early 70's. They carried parts from Allied electronics.
If you're old enough to remember Allied, then you know that they were
out of Britain and had quite a catalog,

I'm old enough to remember Allied, and they were out of 100 N. Western Ave.,
Chicago, Illinois USA.

--
The function of an asshole is to emit quantities of crap. Spammers do
a very good job of that. However, I do object to my inbox being a
spammer's toilet bowl. -- Walter Dnes

 

[TCS]

<html><input type crash></html>
begin On 17 Jul 2003 15:15:32 GMT, Michael Black <et472@FreeNet.Carleton.CA> wrote:

gothika (gothika@earthlink.net) writes:
Tandy bought them out in the early 70's.

No, it was earlier, though I don't have a complete enough set of magazine
back issues to place exactly when.

As I said, Radio Shack was a small regional chain selling parts (and some
equipment) in the Boston area.

At some point in the sixties, they were bought by Tandy. By 1968, they
were owned by Tandy, and were running 15 page "catalogs" in Elementary
Electronics. The mailing address was Fort Worth, TX.
Well, the November 1967 issue of Popular Electronics has an RS ad,
and the mailing address is Fort Worth, though no specific mention of
Tandy. However, it sure looks like they've had time to move up
from the regional chain.

I can't find ads for Radio Shack in the magazines I do have from earlier
in the sixties, so I don't know exactly when the takeover occurred.
Someone once suggested 1963, but I have no way of verifying that.

google is your friend. 15 seconds of searching yielded:
http://www.digidome.nl/tandyand.htm

 

[bigmike]

"Sharon Leigh" <sleigh@aol.com> wrote in message
news:TEvRa.3600$KZ.1245777@news1.news.adelphia.net...

Thanks, Mike, I will try that. I am trying to learn more about audio
electronics (I haven't touched an oscilloscope or ohmmeter in about eight
years, since my days in computer school), but I fear I don't have the
patience for big problems...

I understand. The one thing in your favor is those old Kenwood amps were
built well. If you decide to give it a go, let us know, and we will try to
help you further...

"bigmike" <bigmike@cornhusker.net> wrote in message
news:3f1647fa$0$24508$9a6e19ea@news.newshosting.com...
I meant to say tap on the board lightly, not tap on the board lighting


"bigmike" <bigmike@cornhusker.net> wrote in message news:...

"Sharon Leigh" <sleigh@aol.com> wrote in message
news:_vqRa.3080$KZ.1156851@news1.news.adelphia.net...
I have done a pretty thorough visual inspection. Don't see any bad
solder
at
the speaker terminals. No obvious burn marks or smells. I really
don't
think
the receiver is worth the effort to fix unless it's something fairly
simple,
which it apparently isn't. I am, however, going to go through the
boards
one
more time with a magnifying glass to see if there's something I
missed.

Thanks for your help everyone.

Most of the time, a problem like this has no visual indications. A
transistor or cap can be defective without any outward signs of a
problem.
Something you might want to try is tapping on the board lighting with
the
end of something plastic, like the reverse end of an ink pin, while
the
amp
is on. See if you hear the noise problem change. A bad solder joint
could
be
just about anywhere on the board, not just at the speaker connections,
and
cause the problem. If you have limited abilities at troubleshooting,
then
it's true, you will have to make a judgement call on whether it's
worth
repairing or not. But, if your interested in learning more about
electronics, this amp would make a nice place to start.




"bigmike" <bigmike@cornhusker.net> wrote in message
news:3f16179f$0$24529$9a6e19ea@news.newshosting.com...

"Sharon Leigh" <sleigh@aol.com> wrote in message
news:WboRa.3034$KZ.1115395@news1.news.adelphia.net...
Yes, I swapped speakers. I also moved the set over to the B
speaker
terminals. Guess what? Same problem.

Then it's time to start trouble shooting. No particular "common
part"
is
the cause of that problem. Any switch on the front of that unit
can
have
dirty contacts and cause static. Be sure to try them all to see if
they
have
an effect, including the tone controls. They all have seperate
contacts
for
each channel. If it's not the switches, then I would check the
board
for
any
bad solder joints. After that, it requires basic troubleshooting
skills,
a
few basic pieces of test gear, and some basic electronic skills.
By
the
way,
what does this static sound like? Is it like a hiss, or is it a
frying
sound? A frying sound tend to point one toward a bad
transistor(s)
in
the
output stage. Maybe you could explain the sound a little better.


"Jeff" <frontline_electronics@NSatt.net> wrote in message

news:31lRa.57999$0v4.3923232@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
Have you swapped the speakers?
Jeff

"Sharon Leigh" <sleigh@aol.com> wrote in message
news:k4eRa.1876$KZ.911568@news1.news.adelphia.net...
Yes, I do have sound in the bad channel. I think the best
way
to
describe
it
is that it sounds like a radio station that's not tuned in
properly.
It's
staticy and garbled.
"bigmike" <bigmike@cornhusker.net> wrote in message
news:3f14de13$0$24599$9a6e19ea@news.newshosting.com...

"Sharon Leigh" <sleigh@aol.com> wrote in message
news:VA4Ra.1371$KZ.745283@news1.news.adelphia.net...
I was just reading the post about the marantz receiver
static
problem.
Mine's slightly different, in that it goes away when I
turn
the
balance
all
the way left, and my headphones work fine. I cleaned
every
conceivable
contact and circuit and still have the static. The
receiver's
32
years
old
so I am suspecting something has died or fried along the
way.
anyone
have
any ideas?


Lot's of possibilities. Dirty or worn speaker switch
contacts,
bad
relay
(if the old amp uses one) contacts, dried up caps, leaky
transistors.
Headphones require very little power to produce sound, so
some
problems
in
the output stage might not show up when using them. By
the
way,
do
you
have
sound through the bad channel along with the static, or
just
static?

 

[Sofie]

Sharon Leigh:
Don't just toss it yet, what if the service shop repair price is less that
you think ?
If you are not certain how to proceed with the troubleshooting and don't
have the needed equipment and repair experience you probably won't be able
to successfully do the task...... visual observation alone won't be enough.
.....BUT, there are shops out there that specialize in fixing this older
stereo equipment. My shop regularly does this kind of service and we keep
busy doing it........ the problem you describe may not necessarily be a
big deal to repair.... or it could be ???
Do yourself a favor and at least take it into a shop for a repair cost
estimate. Many smaller shops will give you an over-the-counter "rough idea"
what it may cost to fix ...... that is what my shop does with a lot of the
older equipment. A trained tech that has experience with the older
receivers can take a quick listen, make a few quick checks with the meter
and usually come up with a "fairly" accurate evaluation in a short
time....... then, with a repair cost number, you can make an intelligent
repair decision...... but without a repair cost number you would only be
guessing like all of us are now doing on this newsgroup.
My shop sees a fair number of these things that are fairly inexpensive to
repair, so don't throw it out yet, get the facts first.
--
Best Regards,
Daniel Sofie
Electronics Supply & Repair
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -


"Sharon Leigh" <sleigh@aol.com> wrote in message news:TEvRa.3600

Thanks, Mike, I will try that. I am trying to learn more about audio
electronics (I haven't touched an oscilloscope or ohmmeter in about eight
years, since my days in computer school), but I fear I don't have the
patience for big problems...