Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

"Doc" <docsavage20@xhotmail.xom> wrote in message
news:vV7ah.3344$sf5.2091@newsread4.news.pas.earthlink.net...
An older friend asked me to hook up their DVD player to their HDTV via the
component cables. Yes, not complex but again, they're older and somewhat
technophobic.

I got the DVD hooked up to HD1 and in fact it plays the DVD when HD1 is
selected. However, now, some of the stations that were coming in on their
coax cable connection aren't. They've got this HDTV hooked up via a coax
cable coming through the VCR - yes, I know, complete waste of technology
but
that's their setup. In essence, they're just using it as a wide screen tv
and don't seem to care that they're not getting an HD picture.

However, now he tells me that some of the stations don't come in that had
been coming in before. At first, I thought maybe in the process of moving
the TV around I had damaged the coax connector but some of the stations
come
in strong when the cable is connected - only snow without the cable so
obviously a signal getting through. The stations that now don't come in on
this TV do come in on other TV's in other rooms on the same cable system.
Click to expand...
I was thinking the same things as mentioned by others but would add one for
ya.
From your description, I'm thinking they have a newer/recent model set that
should have at least 2 inputs, coax and composite. (Actually, I'm thinking
they'd also have at least one component and/or DVI/HDMI if that "HD1" and
"wide screen tv" are true descriptors) Get a good splitter (-3.5dB,
5-1000Mhz, 2-way) Splitters can good bad too. Re-screw/tighten all
connections. Place the VCR on its own input and "train" your friends to
switch through the 3 sources/inputs - ANT/Cable coax, DVD, VTR. They'll have
to learn anyway if they ever do get HD on that set.

PS - I always tell the technophobic some variation on - "Don't worry about
being smart enough to use this computer. Computers are dumb and they'll do
exactly what you tell them to do even if it is wrong." and "You don't have
to worry about using this computer, you can't blow up the world by touching
the wrong key." These TV's are minicomputers now too. Heck, if you can learn
how to heat up a cold cup of coffee with a microwave, you can handle this.


YMMV
 
Jim wrote:
I have a Bearcat scanner 210xl.
Click to expand...
I have one of those too. It looks something like this, from Brett's
Scanner Photo Gallery:

http://n7olq.home.att.net/Radio/Galleryframe.htm

http://n7olq.home.att.net/Radio/Images/bc210xl.jpg

I do not recall that the display reacts to room lighting. I have long
considered its exceptionally bright display one of its biggest
virtures, as you can clearly see what frequency you are on when it is
in use as an underdash scanner in a car. Also, it has the loudest audio
output of any of my mobile scanners. On the downside, it has only 18
channels.

I do not have the service manual for it, so I can't help you with your
problem. If need be, I can make voltage measurements on mine for
comparison with yours.

Best wishes.
 
vin wrote:
Hello:

We have a Sony KV32FS17 TV and are facing the following problem:

We turned the TV off one evening and when it was switched on the next
day, it did not turn on. Insterad the error light in the front of the
TV set started blinking. It blinks 2 times and then stays on for a
short period. It again blinks 2 times and again stays on for a short
period and cotinues to do that.

We plugged out the TV and plugged back in after 10 minutes. It does the
same thing again. We removed the back cover of the TV and checked the
fuse near the power input point. This fuse is fine.

Can some one advise us as to what we can do to fix this problem.

We will apprecaite any help.

Thanks.

Vin
Click to expand...
set is in protection mode probably due to a short on one of the lines.
you are highly unlikely to be able to solve this yourself. If the set
is recent ish and had a good picture before the failure it is probably
worth getting repaired, so take it to a tech.
-B.
 
"dave" <nospam> wrote in message
news:toGdnctzwv_ApPbYnZ2dnUVZ_uWdnZ2d@comcast.com...
Sam is correct. Let's see, the player does not detect CDs so check the
lense for dust? It could be a bad laser? Not even close! CD changers
generally have sensors to tell them which slots have disks in them. I'd
check those sensors first. Also the change/loading mechanism could have
sensor switch problems.

DaveL
Click to expand...
Sam, or indeed you, *may* be correct - it depends on what exactly the OP
means by the player " failing to detect a disc ". In my experience, this is
normal-speak for the player not extracting a TOC from a disc, maybe after a
spin-up, maybe not even getting that far. It is very very rare for a player
that has separate disc detection, to fail to sense that a disc is on the
carousel at any particular position. Many players do not have separate disc
detection sensors, relying on the laser to find something when it initiates
a focus search. This particular player does use separate optical sensors for
both disc and carousel position detection. However, I can't remember ever
having a problem with one failing to sense discs on the carousel.

Having repaired many of these, I would fire the same statement of " not even
close ", back at you. In my experience, the most common playing problem on
these is due to a defective ( or just plain dusty ) KSS240A, and the
liklihood of any sensors being at fault is slim at best. I have had the
laser flexiprint go bad, and that usually results in failure of the focus
motor to operate, as the tracks that normally break are the ones that
connect to there. This is easily spotted by watching to see if the lens goes
up and down ( having first fooled the sensor into thinking that there is a
disc in place, of course ...) Very often, a poke of the flexiprint at that
point in time, will cause the tracks to momentarily remake, and the lens
will move.

And to Sam, yes, I would say that the situation is that bad now. The quality
of the 'standard' Sony KSS series lasers, fitted to many manufacturer's
products, seems to have gone down and down over the years, and I change many
of them - often in kit that's still within the warranty period, which is
often about the only time that it's financially viable to do it. The latest
Sony offering in the laser stakes, is not even replaceable. The flexiprint
is solder-attached at both ends, so the whole assembly has to be replaced,
complete with the servo / amp pcb, which also is not really servicable, as
the IC is one of those calculator style " ball of snot " jobs, that has no
visible pins for measuring on.

Arfa
 
maxfoo <maxfoo@punkass.com> wrote in
news:3r8em2hgqap3pbpoqi7m4dghfuouloadfp@4ax.com:

GAWD, These kids nowadays have it made!
Check out this kewl hotwheels radar gun on sale for $20.00 at Walmart.
I wonder if it's accurate though, I might just pick one up and
dissect it!!
Anyone already get one of these, is it accurate? TIA

http://www.walmart.com/catalog/product.do?product_id=4661205
Click to expand...

They'll grow up and want to be state troopers.

SC
 
If its an I2C serial EEPROM , then I need it to read from it.
How can this be done ?
On the other hand , is it possible that one chip of that type can work
without the usual power supply pins ? because of the 6 pins that the
chip has , only two are connected to the circuit.

thanks


Clint Sharp ha escrito:

In message <1164467167.089263.28830@14g2000cws.googlegroups.com>, eleboy
eduparker@gmail.com> writes
from the 6 pins , only 2 are connected to an outside computer circuit.
Would it be possible that this chip is somekind of programable one ?
with only 2 pins ? where it can be written to and read it from ?

Could be Serial EEPROM, look up I2C on Google, you'll find thousands of
pages describing it and its applications. Might help if you let us know
what it's in.
thanks for any help


--
Clint Sharp
Click to expand...
 
Hey Afra,

You may have me there. I've only repaired two CD changers. One Yamaha had
a hairline crack on the stepper motor gear that caused it to skip
intermittently. One Denon did have bad tray sensor switches. It had a hard
time loading disks because of it.

But my point was more to do with the way some things are blanketly
diagnosed. I have much more tape machine background. I don't know how many
times a lay person would hand me a bad tape machine and tell me it probably
just needs the heads cleaned. I'd be like "sure I'll clean the heads for
you. How about I fix it after that?"

DaveL


"Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:bhLah.3511$J4.759@newsfe7-win.ntli.net...
"dave" <nospam> wrote in message
news:toGdnctzwv_ApPbYnZ2dnUVZ_uWdnZ2d@comcast.com...
Sam is correct. Let's see, the player does not detect CDs so check the
lense for dust? It could be a bad laser? Not even close! CD changers
generally have sensors to tell them which slots have disks in them. I'd
check those sensors first. Also the change/loading mechanism could have
sensor switch problems.

DaveL


Sam, or indeed you, *may* be correct - it depends on what exactly the OP
means by the player " failing to detect a disc ". In my experience, this
is normal-speak for the player not extracting a TOC from a disc, maybe
after a spin-up, maybe not even getting that far. It is very very rare for
a player that has separate disc detection, to fail to sense that a disc is
on the carousel at any particular position. Many players do not have
separate disc detection sensors, relying on the laser to find something
when it initiates a focus search. This particular player does use separate
optical sensors for both disc and carousel position detection. However, I
can't remember ever having a problem with one failing to sense discs on
the carousel.

Having repaired many of these, I would fire the same statement of " not
even close ", back at you. In my experience, the most common playing
problem on these is due to a defective ( or just plain dusty ) KSS240A,
and the liklihood of any sensors being at fault is slim at best. I have
had the laser flexiprint go bad, and that usually results in failure of
the focus motor to operate, as the tracks that normally break are the ones
that connect to there. This is easily spotted by watching to see if the
lens goes up and down ( having first fooled the sensor into thinking that
there is a disc in place, of course ...) Very often, a poke of the
flexiprint at that point in time, will cause the tracks to momentarily
remake, and the lens will move.

And to Sam, yes, I would say that the situation is that bad now. The
quality of the 'standard' Sony KSS series lasers, fitted to many
manufacturer's products, seems to have gone down and down over the years,
and I change many of them - often in kit that's still within the warranty
period, which is often about the only time that it's financially viable to
do it. The latest Sony offering in the laser stakes, is not even
replaceable. The flexiprint is solder-attached at both ends, so the whole
assembly has to be replaced, complete with the servo / amp pcb, which also
is not really servicable, as the IC is one of those calculator style "
ball of snot " jobs, that has no visible pins for measuring on.

Arfa
Click to expand...
 
"dave" <nospam> wrote in message
news:asWdnZxfp5dEOPbYnZ2dnUVZ_vOdnZ2d@comcast.com...

I have much more tape machine background. I don't know how many times a
lay person would hand me a bad tape machine and tell me it probably just
needs the heads cleaned. I'd be like "sure I'll clean the heads for you.
How about I fix it after that?"
Click to expand...
People don't like to feel like they are out of their depth. Cliff Claven
wasn't just a character on Cheers.
 
"soundman62" <soundman62.2hwfnp@diybanter.com> wrote in message
news:soundman62.2hwfnp@diybanter.com...
Unit getting progressively worse. Was intermittant now happens quite
often.
Comes on, then either a few seconds or several minutes later will shut
off. Must reset main on/off switch on the TV to make come back on.
Remote will not turn it on when this happens.
Any source for a schematic or tip on problem would help.
Thanks




--
soundman62
Click to expand...
With a Pioneer of this age, inspect all the solder joints on the
ps/deflection board and resolder the bad ones. there will be many. Also
check the joints on the convergence panel under the front grille. More than
likely just a bad solder joint, however the condition you indicate is the
proper operation of the powerdown/protection circuit.

When the set shuts off is there anything at all unusual about the picture?

Jammy
 
"dave" <nospam> wrote in message
news:asWdnZxfp5dEOPbYnZ2dnUVZ_vOdnZ2d@comcast.com...
Hey Afra,

You may have me there. I've only repaired two CD changers. One Yamaha
had a hairline crack on the stepper motor gear that caused it to skip
intermittently. One Denon did have bad tray sensor switches. It had a
hard time loading disks because of it.

But my point was more to do with the way some things are blanketly
diagnosed. I have much more tape machine background. I don't know how
many times a lay person would hand me a bad tape machine and tell me it
probably just needs the heads cleaned. I'd be like "sure I'll clean the
heads for you. How about I fix it after that?"

DaveL
Click to expand...
Ok Dave, fair enough. I tend to pitch replies at the level of expertise that
I perceive the poster to have in the field. Anyone who knows me on here
would, I'm sure, back me up that I am never one to issue a " blanket fix "
statement. I always try to offer considered and practical advice on specific
problems that I know on specific equipment, or if I am offering more general
advice, it will be based on similar problems that I've had over the 35 or so
years that I've been mending this stuff, and the measurements and
observations that are most likely to get you to a fix. I was only brief on
this one, because that was all that I felt I needed to add to "b's"
originally brief, and eminently valid response to this problem on this
particular model.

Arfa
 
"dave" <nospam> writes:

Hey Afra,

You may have me there. I've only repaired two CD changers. One Yamaha had
a hairline crack on the stepper motor gear that caused it to skip
intermittently. One Denon did have bad tray sensor switches. It had a hard
time loading disks because of it.

But my point was more to do with the way some things are blanketly
diagnosed. I have much more tape machine background. I don't know how many
times a lay person would hand me a bad tape machine and tell me it probably
just needs the heads cleaned. I'd be like "sure I'll clean the heads for
you. How about I fix it after that?"

DaveL
Click to expand...
I remember there were some Sony models (I think) where the speed of the motor
that rotated the corousel would drift with time and then the player wouldn't
even recognize that there was a disc in any position. A resistor/pot
fixed that.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included in the
subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.

"Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:bhLah.3511$J4.759@newsfe7-win.ntli.net...

"dave" <nospam> wrote in message
news:toGdnctzwv_ApPbYnZ2dnUVZ_uWdnZ2d@comcast.com...
Sam is correct. Let's see, the player does not detect CDs so check the
lense for dust? It could be a bad laser? Not even close! CD changers
generally have sensors to tell them which slots have disks in them. I'd
check those sensors first. Also the change/loading mechanism could have
sensor switch problems.

DaveL


Sam, or indeed you, *may* be correct - it depends on what exactly the OP
means by the player " failing to detect a disc ". In my experience, this
is normal-speak for the player not extracting a TOC from a disc, maybe
after a spin-up, maybe not even getting that far. It is very very rare for
a player that has separate disc detection, to fail to sense that a disc is
on the carousel at any particular position. Many players do not have
separate disc detection sensors, relying on the laser to find something
when it initiates a focus search. This particular player does use separate
optical sensors for both disc and carousel position detection. However, I
can't remember ever having a problem with one failing to sense discs on
the carousel.

Having repaired many of these, I would fire the same statement of " not
even close ", back at you. In my experience, the most common playing
problem on these is due to a defective ( or just plain dusty ) KSS240A,
and the liklihood of any sensors being at fault is slim at best. I have
had the laser flexiprint go bad, and that usually results in failure of
the focus motor to operate, as the tracks that normally break are the ones
that connect to there. This is easily spotted by watching to see if the
lens goes up and down ( having first fooled the sensor into thinking that
there is a disc in place, of course ...) Very often, a poke of the
flexiprint at that point in time, will cause the tracks to momentarily
remake, and the lens will move.

And to Sam, yes, I would say that the situation is that bad now. The
quality of the 'standard' Sony KSS series lasers, fitted to many
manufacturer's products, seems to have gone down and down over the years,
and I change many of them - often in kit that's still within the warranty
period, which is often about the only time that it's financially viable to
do it. The latest Sony offering in the laser stakes, is not even
replaceable. The flexiprint is solder-attached at both ends, so the whole
assembly has to be replaced, complete with the servo / amp pcb, which also
is not really servicable, as the IC is one of those calculator style "
ball of snot " jobs, that has no visible pins for measuring on.

Arfa
Click to expand...
 
Sam Goldwasser wrote:
"dave" <nospam> writes:

Hey Afra,

You may have me there. I've only repaired two CD changers. One
Yamaha had a hairline crack on the stepper motor gear that caused it
to skip intermittently. One Denon did have bad tray sensor
switches. It had a hard time loading disks because of it.

But my point was more to do with the way some things are blanketly
diagnosed. I have much more tape machine background. I don't know
how many times a lay person would hand me a bad tape machine and
tell me it probably just needs the heads cleaned. I'd be like "sure
I'll clean the heads for you. How about I fix it after that?"

DaveL


I remember there were some Sony models (I think) where the speed of
the motor that rotated the corousel would drift with time and then
the player wouldn't even recognize that there was a disc in any
position. A resistor/pot
fixed that.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header
above is ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics
is included in the subject line. Or, you can contact me via the
Feedback Form in the FAQs.

"Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:bhLah.3511$J4.759@newsfe7-win.ntli.net...

"dave" <nospam> wrote in message
news:toGdnctzwv_ApPbYnZ2dnUVZ_uWdnZ2d@comcast.com...
Sam is correct. Let's see, the player does not detect CDs so
check the lense for dust? It could be a bad laser? Not even
close! CD changers generally have sensors to tell them which
slots have disks in them. I'd check those sensors first. Also
the change/loading mechanism could have sensor switch problems.

DaveL


Sam, or indeed you, *may* be correct - it depends on what exactly
the OP means by the player " failing to detect a disc ". In my
experience, this is normal-speak for the player not extracting a
TOC from a disc, maybe after a spin-up, maybe not even getting that
far. It is very very rare for a player that has separate disc
detection, to fail to sense that a disc is on the carousel at any
particular position. Many players do not have separate disc
detection sensors, relying on the laser to find something when it
initiates a focus search. This particular player does use separate
optical sensors for both disc and carousel position detection.
However, I can't remember ever having a problem with one failing to
sense discs on the carousel.

Having repaired many of these, I would fire the same statement of "
not even close ", back at you. In my experience, the most common
playing problem on these is due to a defective ( or just plain
dusty ) KSS240A, and the liklihood of any sensors being at fault is
slim at best. I have had the laser flexiprint go bad, and that
usually results in failure of the focus motor to operate, as the
tracks that normally break are the ones that connect to there. This
is easily spotted by watching to see if the lens goes up and down (
having first fooled the sensor into thinking that there is a disc
in place, of course ...) Very often, a poke of the flexiprint at
that point in time, will cause the tracks to momentarily remake,
and the lens will move.

And to Sam, yes, I would say that the situation is that bad now. The
quality of the 'standard' Sony KSS series lasers, fitted to many
manufacturer's products, seems to have gone down and down over the
years, and I change many of them - often in kit that's still within
the warranty period, which is often about the only time that it's
financially viable to do it. The latest Sony offering in the laser
stakes, is not even replaceable. The flexiprint is solder-attached
at both ends, so the whole assembly has to be replaced, complete
with the servo / amp pcb, which also is not really servicable, as
the IC is one of those calculator style " ball of snot " jobs, that
has no visible pins for measuring on.

Arfa
Click to expand...
Also on these Sony models the inside limit switch can be flaky or
inoperative. The disc just spins and does nothing else 'til the limit switch
hits.

MarkZ.
 
Talk to some of the larger retailers that take them in on trade and theen
they go to the dumpster..
I've seen many in Tulsa and even salvaged a few lense!

<jakeman21@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1164564742.174497.302780@45g2000cws.googlegroups.com...
Hi guys,
I am having trouble finding a replacement mirror for a Sony model
number KP-46C36 rear projection tv. Can somebody help me with this. Can
I go to a local glass shop and get a mirror cut, or does anyone have
anywhere where I can get a mirror. Any Suggestions would be
appreciated. Thanks
Click to expand...
 
On Mon, 27 Nov 2006 06:44:51 -0700, Ken G. wrote:

I hit the send button to soon .

After cleaning the lens with windex and that does not work you could try
to unplug the wire going to the laser and plug it back in . Sometimes
this works .

Other causes .. possible bad disk motor , bad laser or wire strip going
to it ,, belt slipping .
Click to expand...
Ken, why dont you like the alcohol? My experience,
Windex is liable to leave residue. Thanks...
 
ampdoc Wrote:
"soundman62" soundman62.2hwfnp@diybanter.com wrote in message
news:soundman62.2hwfnp@diybanter.com...-

Unit getting progressively worse. Was intermittant now happens quite
often.
Comes on, then either a few seconds or several minutes later will
shut
off. Must reset main on/off switch on the TV to make come back on.
Remote will not turn it on when this happens.
Any source for a schematic or tip on problem would help.
Thanks




--
soundman62-

With a Pioneer of this age, inspect all the solder joints on the
ps/deflection board and resolder the bad ones. there will be many. Also

check the joints on the convergence panel under the front grille. More
than
likely just a bad solder joint, however the condition you indicate is
the
proper operation of the powerdown/protection circuit.

When the set shuts off is there anything at all unusual about the
picture?

Jammy
Click to expand...
Nothing unusual, can hear the switchs click. sometimes after hours of
use.
joints will be checked, THX.




--
soundman62
 
Thanks,

After more digging. Problem is only when DSP is on analog inputs.



Mark D. Zacharias wrote:
tem00 wrote:
It's a RX-V620 and only has this problem in the surround/DSP modes.
I'm a tech but not an audio tech.

Can someone please tell me any common failures for this symptom and
which circuit(s) to check? DSP IC, DAC, ???

Thanks
Thad

Could be the YSS chip, the DRAM, or a codec A/D chip either one. These kinds
of problems are some of the worst. Later model Yamaha's have built-in
diagnostics which can sometimes help isolate the problem, but not always. I
was fooled on one recently. Replaced the YSS chip as indicated, no fix.

My guess is the YSS chip, but the surest fix is to replace the DSP board,
which Yamaha probably does still have - but it's going to be expensive...

Mark Z.
Click to expand...
 
Sounds like you are prettty close in your assesment.

A BTL amp puts out 4 times the power of a single ended. When loaded
with a static impedance, you put twice the voltage you get twice the
current, which means quadruple.

Most likely they are feeding the woofers in paralell through a
crossover. Because 90% of the time bass is in phase and mixed equally
into both stereo channels this can work.

Used to be there was one way to design an amp, well, I take that back.
If you are interested in weirdo amp designs search this group for
"single transformer stereo amp", something like that. I got in it, but
the schematic is not supplied. Someone did email it to me though. Kinda
anteresting, and tubes no less.

If you like wierdo amp designs, also check out class G and class D
amps.

If you like all that, one of these days I am going to sit down and
design a class D power amp that uses only one output device. I have the
concept, and I am sure I can do it in the analog domain, but it is not
easy. Also, if I want it to cover the full range for audio, it is going
to be a very very fast four quadrant triac. I don't know if they make
them fast enough yet, but that doesn't mean the circuit can't be
designed, it just can't be built.

If I can get one that I can accurately PWN at like 60Khz or so, it is
feasible. Otherwise it might make a good low frequency amp. Of course
such a thing might already exist, I can't say that something does not
exist.
 
If you like all that, one of these days I am going to sit down and
design a class D power amp that uses only one output device. I have the
concept, and I am sure I can do it in the analog domain, but it is not
easy. Also, if I want it to cover the full range for audio, it is going
to be a very very fast four quadrant triac. I don't know if they make
them fast enough yet, but that doesn't mean the circuit can't be
designed, it just can't be built.
Click to expand...

You can already get class D amps in a single chip needing only a couple
of passive components to work. Why bother making one from scratch?
 
maxfoo wrote:

GAWD, These kids nowadays have it made!
Check out this kewl hotwheels radar gun on sale for $20.00 at Walmart.
I wonder if it's accurate though, I might just pick one up and
dissect it!!
Anyone already get one of these, is it accurate? TIA

http://www.walmart.com/catalog/product.do?product_id=4661205



So, can you bend it down a few hundred megahertz into the amateur 10GHz
Click to expand...
band? Without spending more than you would for a Gunnplexer?

--

Tim Wescott
Wescott Design Services
http://www.wescottdesign.com

Posting from Google? See http://cfaj.freeshell.org/google/

"Applied Control Theory for Embedded Systems" came out in April.
See details at http://www.wescottdesign.com/actfes/actfes.html
 
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