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Tv is not right here to get model number
It is an 05 ...27 inch standard size crt set . The picture is shrunk in
on both sides a bit like an hour glass . The bowed in portion does not
move . Is this a common problem on these ?
Thanks
You have another source connected, like a VCR?I am looking for a users manual for the Pro99. If you have one, or know
where I can get one, please let me know. I can't figure out how to use
the PIP. Could you help me on this?
The really sad thing is that somewhere in China there is probably a guy withIt is ridiculous, considering the crying of all the green eco-warriors now
about electronics going to landfill, that Sony can / will not supply such
a simple item. There is no excuse for not stocking it, even if they buy
that deck mech in. I've done a lot of them within warranty period, so a
whole new deck is supplied. I used to keep them in the fond hope that
something else on there would become useful in the future, but now I just
bin them.
coil near your flyback cooked replace it and the pin amp transistorTv is not right here to get model number
It is an 05 ...27 inch standard size crt set . The picture is shrunk in
on both sides a bit like an hour glass . The bowed in portion does not
move . Is this a common problem on these ?
Thanks
if it is the model im thinking of YES common you will find a good size
How can I do this? Does anyone have one, if so can they give me theTalk to some of the larger retailers that take them in on trade and theen
they go to the dumpster..
I've seen many in Tulsa and even salvaged a few lense!
jakeman21@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1164564742.174497.302780@45g2000cws.googlegroups.com...
Hi guys,
I am having trouble finding a replacement mirror for a Sony model
number KP-46C36 rear projection tv. Can somebody help me with this. Can
I go to a local glass shop and get a mirror cut, or does anyone have
anywhere where I can get a mirror. Any Suggestions would be
appreciated. Thanks
The only problem i am having is finding the dimensions of the mirror.
Henry Kolesnik wrote:
Talk to some of the larger retailers that take them in on trade and theen
they go to the dumpster..
I've seen many in Tulsa and even salvaged a few lense!
jakeman21@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1164564742.174497.302780@45g2000cws.googlegroups.com...
Hi guys,
I am having trouble finding a replacement mirror for a Sony model
number KP-46C36 rear projection tv. Can somebody help me with this. Can
I go to a local glass shop and get a mirror cut, or does anyone have
anywhere where I can get a mirror. Any Suggestions would be
appreciated. Thanks
The only problem i am having is finding the dimensions of the mirror.
How can I do this? Does anyone have one, if so can they give me the
dimensions of the mirror? Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Measure the hole?
I don´t understand your question. You already found that your computerHi,
My PC went dead (no display, but the CPU fan spins). Looking at this, I
naturally suspected the motherboard, but then I found the system works
fine with another poer supply.
Funny thing is, the defective(?) power supply seems to give all the
voltages all right, but just doesnt start up the system.
Could this be a 'power good' signal issue? If it is can it be tested?
Another pointer: earlier, the CPU fan would initialise only after
pressing the soft-on power supply switch on the mobo. Now, it starts
the moment the system is powered up. On the other hand, if no load is
connected to the PS, it seemingly behaves exactly as it should; off
till soft switch pressed (green wire connected to ground).
Before buying another supply, I'm wondering if there is anybody has
seen this specific problem, and managed to fix it?
Thanks and Regards,
Anand
...
My PC went dead (no display, but the CPU fan spins). Looking at this, I
naturally suspected the motherboard, but then I found the system works
fine with another poer supply.
Funny thing is, the defective(?) power supply seems to give all the
voltages all right, but just doesnt start up the system.
Could this be a 'power good' signal issue? If it is can it be tested?
Another pointer: earlier, the CPU fan would initialise only after
pressing the soft-on power supply switch on the mobo. Now, it starts
the moment the system is powered up. On the other hand, if no load is
connected to the PS, it seemingly behaves exactly as it should; off
till soft switch pressed (green wire connected to ground).
Before buying another supply, I'm wondering if there is anybody has
seen this specific problem, and managed to fix it?
Just replace the PSU and quit worrying about it. PSU die and go badHi,
My PC went dead (no display, but the CPU fan spins). Looking at this,
I naturally suspected the motherboard, but then I found the system
works fine with another poer supply.
Funny thing is, the defective(?) power supply seems to give all the
voltages all right, but just doesnt start up the system.
Could this be a 'power good' signal issue? If it is can it be tested?
Another pointer: earlier, the CPU fan would initialise only after
pressing the soft-on power supply switch on the mobo. Now, it starts
the moment the system is powered up. On the other hand, if no load is
connected to the PS, it seemingly behaves exactly as it should; off
till soft switch pressed (green wire connected to ground).
Before buying another supply, I'm wondering if there is anybody has
seen this specific problem, and managed to fix it?
Thanks and Regards,
Anand
"eno@pdxconnect.com" <groups@pdxconnect.com> wrote in message
news:1165180535.815225.147500@73g2000cwn.googlegroups.com...
Our 5 year old Kenmore microwave has run perfectly with no abuse, no
metal used while cooking, etc. We have also used it to warm our plates,
and typically we warm one, two, or three dinner plates for between 1
and 2 minutes total. They always emerge nicely warmed, not hot but
just right. The plates are similar to what we'd call stoneware but not
as dense, perhaps some sort
of clay substance made by Pfaltzgraff. This shows the exact plate but
not the material, at http://www.pfaltzgraff.com/ca/13937.htm .
We have warmed plates in it for most of the 5 years since we discovered
this seems to work quite well. Today, while warming two plates, we got
a strong arc after only a second or two, which upon subsequent test
seems to occur behind the flexible white plastic square on the right
side
of the cavity (assume this is the magnetron horn?)
We shut it off immediately and then experimented further; it appears to
still function, warming a glass of water normally, warming a container
of rice normally, etc. However, placing the plates back in causes an
almost immediate arc.
So, what's changed? Have the plates somehow become more/less load now
(unlikely; we tried two other plates as well with the same result.)
I'm guessing maybe a buildup of grease or residue in the magnetron area
may have changed it's parameters somehow, to the extent that it's no
longer 'happy' being asked to warm plates.
Ideas? (Other than "don't do that" please...)
Just remove the plastic bit, but make sure not to put food in there that can
"burst" and splatter into the waveguide.
Presumably - possibly both ways?I hope this is the correct place to ask this question. I notice that
some new stereos come with a USB connection. I am trying to figure out
the purpose of it. I have visited a number of electronic stores and
asked, but I keep getting different answers. Is the USB to connect a
MP3 player, so you can play the songs from your MP3 player on your
stereo?
cleaned with anything abrasive. It is made of a compound that is partI think you nailed it, Bob... there were a couple of blobs of stuff on
the backside of the shield; easy enough to clean up with some steel
wool and then I remounted on the reverse so the waveguide shoots
through a different area of the material. Seems to clear up the
problem.
Running hot water might be an option but not nearly as convenient as
just popping them in the micro.
Thanks.
If you checked your manual, you would find that shield is NOT to be
RegardsI hope this is the correct place to ask this question. I notice that
some new stereos come with a USB connection. I am trying to figure out
the purpose of it. I have visited a number of electronic stores and
asked, but I keep getting different answers. Is the USB to connect a
MP3 player, so you can play the songs from your MP3 player on your
stereo? Is the USB to connect your computer to your stereo, so you can
use the speakers on your stereo for music being played on your
computer? This would mean both would need to be in the same room which
would not make any sense, but maybe so. Is the USB used to connect a
flash or thumbdrive which contains MP3 files which you can then play on
your stereo? This is the reason I would be interested. Anyone have any
idea what is the real answer? I probably should take my flash drive
next time, and plug it in the see if it works.
Thanks
Tom
Why don't you ask for the manual and read it?
I recently did a course at Yamaha on their latest series of AV amps, whichI hope this is the correct place to ask this question. I notice that
some new stereos come with a USB connection. I am trying to figure out
the purpose of it. I have visited a number of electronic stores and
asked, but I keep getting different answers. Is the USB to connect a
MP3 player, so you can play the songs from your MP3 player on your
stereo? Is the USB to connect your computer to your stereo, so you can
use the speakers on your stereo for music being played on your
computer? This would mean both would need to be in the same room which
would not make any sense, but maybe so. Is the USB used to connect a
flash or thumbdrive which contains MP3 files which you can then play on
your stereo? This is the reason I would be interested. Anyone have any
idea what is the real answer? I probably should take my flash drive
next time, and plug it in the see if it works.
Thanks
Tom
dont do that, put a cup of water on the plates when you nuke them.Our 5 year old Kenmore microwave has run perfectly with no abuse, no
metal used while cooking, etc. We have also used it to warm our plates,
and typically we warm one, two, or three dinner plates for between 1
and 2 minutes total. They always emerge nicely warmed, not hot but
just right. The plates are similar to what we'd call stoneware but not
as dense, perhaps some sort
of clay substance made by Pfaltzgraff. This shows the exact plate but
not the material, at http://www.pfaltzgraff.com/ca/13937.htm .
We have warmed plates in it for most of the 5 years since we discovered
this seems to work quite well. Today, while warming two plates, we got
a strong arc after only a second or two, which upon subsequent test
seems to occur behind the flexible white plastic square on the right
side
of the cavity (assume this is the magnetron horn?)
We shut it off immediately and then experimented further; it appears to
still function, warming a glass of water normally, warming a container
of rice normally, etc. However, placing the plates back in causes an
almost immediate arc.
So, what's changed? Have the plates somehow become more/less load now
(unlikely; we tried two other plates as well with the same result.)
I'm guessing maybe a buildup of grease or residue in the magnetron area
may have changed it's parameters somehow, to the extent that it's no
longer 'happy' being asked to warm plates.
Ideas? (Other than "don't do that" please...)
They don't want you to destroy it but it is just a piece of plastic thateno@pdxconnect.com wrote:
I think you nailed it, Bob... there were a couple of blobs of stuff on
the backside of the shield; easy enough to clean up with some steel
wool and then I remounted on the reverse so the waveguide shoots
through a different area of the material. Seems to clear up the
problem.
Running hot water might be an option but not nearly as convenient as
just popping them in the micro.
Thanks.
If you checked your manual, you would find that shield is NOT to be
cleaned with anything abrasive. It is made of a compound that is part
of the distribution of the microwaves.
My first unit manual said that (early 80's) and the one I bought a week
ago also said that as well.
He's been doing it for years without incident. So, something else hasMy first unit was a Sharp, ($1,200) and included a 9 hour cooking course
with it. The very first night, they had a Sharp tech there that said
any dish that contained clay was not to be used as there is always trace
amounts of metals in clay. He also said that if any container that got
hot in the machine when there was no food/water, should not be used.
Why don't you email the manufacturer of the plates and ask if they are
microwave safe. I'll lay odds the answer is NO.
One of my two S-VHS recorders has this problem, an RCA VR695HF. I bought
it about 1990. It was one of the earliest S-VHS decks. I also have the
earliest one, a JVC JRS-7000U. Both decks have been repaired a few times
- the heads have been replaced.
The RCA deck has had a problem for a while. It doesn't always eject the
tape. I press the eject button and I hear the mechanism kick in but the
tape doesn't eject. Until a couple weeks ago, it usually (not always!!)
ejected on the second press (the same sound happened both presses, but
the second time the tape came out). A couple weeks ago I had to press it
40-50 times before the tape finally came out. Annoying, especially
because the tape was due back at the library that day.
Some months ago I took the cover off and looked for something to adjust
or lubricate but whatever I did didn't help (cleaned, a bit of
lubrication here and there, blow compressed air, etc.). Using a
different tape has no evident effect.
Any ideas what I might look for in troubleshooting and fixing this
problem? I have a book on repairing VCR's, but its flowcharts haven't
helped.
Thanks!
Dan
You should see the items Braniac (science abuse) TV show puts in thedoes your operating manual suggest using a microwave oven to heat
plates?
a microwave oven is designed to heat items containing water. a water
molecule is composed of a single atom of oxygen with two atoms of
hydrogen attached at a specific angle to the oxygen atom. the
frequency
of a microwave oven is designed to cause the hydrogen atoms to
vibrate, causing friction with adjacent water molecules, thereby
generating heat.
clays contain minerals rich in metal oxides. the metal in your plates
possibly has been marginal in the past and due to usage, the addition
of molecular metal particles from flatware may have caused the change.
eno@pdxconnect.com wrote:
Our 5 year old Kenmore microwave has run perfectly with no abuse, no
metal used while cooking, etc. We have also used it to warm our plates,
and typically we warm one, two, or three dinner plates for between 1
and 2 minutes total. They always emerge nicely warmed, not hot but
just right. The plates are similar to what we'd call stoneware but not
as dense, perhaps some sort
of clay substance made by Pfaltzgraff. This shows the exact plate but
not the material, at http://www.pfaltzgraff.com/ca/13937.htm .
We have warmed plates in it for most of the 5 years since we discovered
this seems to work quite well. Today, while warming two plates, we got
a strong arc after only a second or two, which upon subsequent test
seems to occur behind the flexible white plastic square on the right
side
of the cavity (assume this is the magnetron horn?)
We shut it off immediately and then experimented further; it appears to
still function, warming a glass of water normally, warming a container
of rice normally, etc. However, placing the plates back in causes an
almost immediate arc.
So, what's changed? Have the plates somehow become more/less load now
(unlikely; we tried two other plates as well with the same result.)
I'm guessing maybe a buildup of grease or residue in the magnetron area
may have changed it's parameters somehow, to the extent that it's no
longer 'happy' being asked to warm plates.
Ideas? (Other than "don't do that" please...)