Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

<hapticz@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:B6v9h.2994$yf7.2138@newssvr21.news.prodigy.net...

if you do not know how to replace a standard wall switch, CALL A QUALIFED
SERVICEMAN!
news:alt.binaries.e-book.technical ASST NEW MTLS B 22 NOV 2006 --- "The
Complete Idiots Guide to Electrical Repair - T. Meany (Alpha, 2000) WW.pdf"
 
lucasea@sbcglobal.net wrote:
Flash point is 81 deg. F but BP is 190. I personally would not want to
spray it in car interior. Imagine a situation where you spray it on a
warm day, slip out of car and get a pleasant surprise from static
electricity ;)

There are actually plenty of ignition sources in a car besides static
charges...ignition switch, multiple electronic components with physical
switches, relays (don't know if they're sealed, but it would be bad form to
assume they are), etc.

Eric Lucas
Of course. What precipitated my comment on static electricity was guy
I know that set off his flintlock rifle (PA flintlock deer season) when
he stepped out of his pickup. Shot his glove compartment ;)
Frank
 
I finally found that the Sony part is a RM-333...
Does anyone know if this uses standard codes on infrared?
tnx
Hank
"Henry Kolesnik" <kolesnik@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:RAmah.31073$yl4.28499@newssvr12.news.prodigy.com...
I just bought a one of these Sony TV/PC monitors as an open box special and
it didn't have the remote. Sony parts wants $84.00 for one but doesn't
have any in stock. The salesman said any Sony remote would work as they
haven't changed the codes in years. We have an older Sony TV with remote
RMV 310 that works find with the old TV but won't do squat with the new
one. Is there something I can do to make it work? Or does anyone know if
the universal/Sony remotes Radio Shack sells are worthwhile?
tnx

--

73
Hank WD5JFR
 
Leonard Caillouet wrote:

Every set that I have tried 10% to 50% filament boosting on deteriorated
within months to the point that it was unacceptable.
I'm quite surprised to hear that, and am wondering why the difference.
I dont know.

We have mixed results
with restoration but many of them stick. The degree to which one calls
success may vary with expectations as well. If I can't get good gray scale
tracking I do not consider the process successful.
Yes. I had no problems there, except for the experimental boost set,
where the resulting gun matching was way out - but no-one would ever
attempt to boost something that bad for commercial reasons.

Could be that we have
only tried boosting CRTs that would not have been acceptable anyway.

Leonard
How have you chosen your boost voltages? Have you just given it enough
to look ok, since you mention using as low as 10%, or have you waded
right in with 33% for mild cases and 50% for the baduns? The latter is
what I did, gives it enough margin to look good for many years to come.

The one type of tube I didnt have good results boosting was ones that
had been rejuved. Once that has been done, really its a death sentence.
With those, a boost can get you a short term result, but the
reappearance of smearing soon ruined things.

when I first learnt of heater boosting I got very much the impression
it shouldnt be overdone, but my own experience was pretty much the
opposite, that tubes can be hit very hard and consistently survive, and
that its underboosting thats unsatisfactory, not over. 50% V boost is a
good double the heater power, far outside design margins, yet rarely
any problem with it.


NT
 
On Sun, 26 Nov 2006 07:36:28 +0000, Jim Has Frothed:

I hope this will be an easy one. I have a Bearcat scanner 210xl. Under
normal light I can't read the display, but when I turn out the lights I can
watch it scan. Any ideas what to check?

Thanks, Jim
Ever replaced a component on a printed circuit board? There is really no
user serviceable part that would give you a quick fix. I used to repair
these and other Bearcat scanners with fluorescent displays by the way.

--
Pierre Salinger Memorial Hook, Line & Sinker, June 2004

COOSN-266-06-25794
 
"Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> writes:

"Sam Goldwasser" <sam@red.seas.upenn.edu> wrote in message
news:6wu00ld3qu.fsf@red.seas.upenn.edu...
"Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> writes:

"Sam Goldwasser" <sam@blue.seas.upenn.edu> wrote in message
news:6w8xhyykz7.fsf@blue.seas.upenn.edu...
"Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> writes:

"b" <reverend_rogers@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1164477012.160749.323890@j44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

gamebigboy3@aol.com ha escrito:

i just recieved a sony cdp-c265 5 disc cd-player. it turns on and
opens, but when u put a disc in it dosnt detect it. could somebody
help
me out with that and tell me why it isnt working?

get a q tip, soak in pure alcohol from chemists, gently clean the
lens.
leave to dry and test-

Failing this doing the trick, suspect a bad laser.

This is like saying: "If your car won't start, check the air filter and
if
its clean, suspect a the engine needs replacing." :)

See the CD repair guide on startup problems.


Sorry Sam. Normally, I respect your input, but that statement, in view of
the basic symptom and long experience, which I know you have also, is
pure
nonsense. You know as well as I do, that if a Sony is suffering from
failing
to read a disc, the first most likely cause is a dirty laser, as "b"
suggested, followed by a defective laser. If you know this model, you
will
be aware that it employs a KSS240A laser which, in view of its age, is
the
most likely problem, after it being dirty. For sure, there are other
possibilities, but if the OP is not experienced enough to have first
tried
properly cleaning the laser, or suspected it to be faulty before
enquiring
on here, it is unlikely that he will understand the more technical
reasons
that the player might not be working.

I stand by my original contention that if the cleaning the laser does not
produce at least a degree of fix to the problem, then the next most
likely
suspect, is the laser itself.

I'll happily defer to your experience which is no doubt orders of
magnitude
more than mine with specific model equipment.

What I would suggest is next time, to include a summary of what you wrote
above so that everyone else can share in it. :) Since, it may not be true
in general.

Sam


Ok Sam, I can live with that. I just felt that as defective lasers are the
most common cause of virtually any manufacturer's equipment failing to read
discs, probably by a factor of 5 to 1 or more over any more complex problem,
that in this case, a longer answer was not needed, any more than " b's " one
regarding cleaning. Had I have felt that it needed more explanation, I would
have given it. That was why I was surprised at your response when I
suggested a likely single component ... Have a good 'un d;~)
Has it really gotten that bad? I don't think it was like that 10 years ago,
was it? There seemed to be many other causes higher up than bad lasers.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included in the
subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.
 
On Sat, 25 Nov 2006 02:39:27 GMT, Impmon <impmon@digi.mon> wrote:

Hmmm... since it is the same as x-band, I wonder if I used those on
freeway, maybe I could scare a few lead foots who has radar detector?
Say I'm coasting down the expressway at posted speed limit when
someone zips past me as if the driver's pants were on fire. Pick up
the toy gun and zap the offending car. If the driver has radar
detector on, he'd panic and slow down a bit.
--
Very easy to build a gunn diode oscillator and scare the pants off
leadfoot at a 5+ mile range.

You need a gunn diode, 8 volt regulated supply, one small bypass cap
and copper end cap pipe fitting and piece of copper/ and some brass
screws to make a mount for the diode.

If you have an old radar detector with good gunn oscillator it can
also make a good X band source for triggering radar detectors - just
isolate the diode/horn sub assembly (you don't need the other parts
just the gunn diode, cavity, bypass cap and power supply). Tune the
cavity screws for maximum effect.

----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==----
http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups
----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =----
 
On Fri, 24 Nov 2006 19:26:07 GMT, Impmon <impmon@digi.mon> wrote:

If it's
accurate enough, a video camera recording the speed and the offending
vehicle with its license place would stop them hopefully before they
get a new hood ornament in the form of a 3 year old child.
--
A video camera with on screen timer and known distance markers could
do the same thing - poor man's Vascar system . . .

Then you'd only have to fight the bureaucracy to make a citizens
arrest stick . . . or just convince the local TV station to take up
your cause - that would probably be a lot easier than dealing directly
with government.

----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==----
http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups
----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =----
 
I hit the send button to soon .

After cleaning the lens with windex and that does not work you could try
to unplug the wire going to the laser and plug it back in . Sometimes
this works .

Other causes .. possible bad disk motor , bad laser or wire strip going
to it ,, belt slipping .
 
I tried a Sony Multi Brand RM-V202 and none of the codes worked. Then I
got a Philips Universal and none the codes worked. Does the Sony RM-333
have special codes, operate in a different band or what. Is there anyway
other way to test the set to see if it has a fault?
tnx
Hnak
"Henry Kolesnik" <kolesnik@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:ZxBah.16196$9v5.5967@newssvr29.news.prodigy.net...
I finally found that the Sony part is a RM-333...
Does anyone know if this uses standard codes on infrared?
tnx
Hank
"Henry Kolesnik" <kolesnik@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:RAmah.31073$yl4.28499@newssvr12.news.prodigy.com...
I just bought a one of these Sony TV/PC monitors as an open box special
and it didn't have the remote. Sony parts wants $84.00 for one but
doesn't have any in stock. The salesman said any Sony remote would work
as they haven't changed the codes in years. We have an older Sony TV with
remote RMV 310 that works find with the old TV but won't do squat with the
new one. Is there something I can do to make it work? Or does anyone
know if the universal/Sony remotes Radio Shack sells are worthwhile?
tnx

--

73
Hank WD5JFR
 
There is good news . Windex is a better cleaner and safe storred in a
vehicle . Alcohol is a poor choice to clean anything accept your skin at
the doctor .
 
You failed to mention what kind of disc.

<gamebigboy3@aol.com> wrote in message
news:1164473791.661409.13660@j72g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
i just recieved a sony cdp-c265 5 disc cd-player. it turns on and
opens, but when u put a disc in it dosnt detect it. could somebody help
me out with that and tell me why it isnt working?
 
Sam is correct. Let's see, the player does not detect CDs so check the
lense for dust? It could be a bad laser? Not even close! CD changers
generally have sensors to tell them which slots have disks in them. I'd
check those sensors first. Also the change/loading mechanism could have
sensor switch problems.

DaveL


"Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:p4rah.62766$r4.20751@newsfe3-gui.ntli.net...
"Sam Goldwasser" <sam@blue.seas.upenn.edu> wrote in message
news:6w8xhyykz7.fsf@blue.seas.upenn.edu...
"Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> writes:

"b" <reverend_rogers@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1164477012.160749.323890@j44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

gamebigboy3@aol.com ha escrito:

i just recieved a sony cdp-c265 5 disc cd-player. it turns on and
opens, but when u put a disc in it dosnt detect it. could somebody
help
me out with that and tell me why it isnt working?

get a q tip, soak in pure alcohol from chemists, gently clean the
lens.
leave to dry and test-

Failing this doing the trick, suspect a bad laser.

This is like saying: "If your car won't start, check the air filter and
if
its clean, suspect a the engine needs replacing." :)

See the CD repair guide on startup problems.


Sorry Sam. Normally, I respect your input, but that statement, in view of
the basic symptom and long experience, which I know you have also, is pure
nonsense. You know as well as I do, that if a Sony is suffering from
failing to read a disc, the first most likely cause is a dirty laser, as
"b" suggested, followed by a defective laser. If you know this model, you
will be aware that it employs a KSS240A laser which, in view of its age,
is the most likely problem, after it being dirty. For sure, there are
other possibilities, but if the OP is not experienced enough to have first
tried properly cleaning the laser, or suspected it to be faulty before
enquiring on here, it is unlikely that he will understand the more
technical reasons that the player might not be working.

I stand by my original contention that if the cleaning the laser does not
produce at least a degree of fix to the problem, then the next most likely
suspect, is the laser itself.

Arfa
 
I would keep it rather in the glove box instead of the center console
exposing it to direct sunshine, although I agree that the chance is
very low, I'd think.

But a little off-topic, my friend told sometime, that he once
experienced a butane cigarette lighter exploding while driving during
sunshine, when the black lighter was placed just below the windshield.
(The gas didn't ignite, it just shattered). But probably a spray can is
much tougher than a little plastic lighter :)

--
Top-posting not supported.
 
Frank wrote:
piclistguy@yahoo.com wrote:
I find that rubbing alcohol (70%) in a small spray bottle comes in
handy for cleaning various things (grease on hands, sunglasses, food
stains on clothes and many more).
I keep a small 2oz spray bottle in my car's center console.
I was wondering if this is dangerous as rubbing alcohol is flammable,
even though its a small amount.
My concern is if the car is left in the hot sun on a hot day
(temperatures in the southwest can broil a car interior), that even
the small amount could ignite or explode.

Flash point is 81 deg. F but BP is 190. I personally would not want
to spray it in car interior. Imagine a situation where you spray it
on a warm day, slip out of car and get a pleasant surprise from static
electricity ;)
Frank
Extremely surprising, since the lower alcohols are conducting! You can
pour/spray one until the cows come home, you won't get a static build up -
just try the same with toluene... ;-)

--
Ron Jones
Process Safety & Development Specialist
Don't repeat history, unreported chemical lab/plant near misses at
http://www.crhf.org.uk Only two things are certain: The universe and
human stupidity; and I'm not certain about the universe. ~ Albert
Einstein
 
In article <456b458b$0$2170$c3e8da3@news.astraweb.com>, "Ron Jones" <ron@ronjones.org.uk> wrote:
Frank wrote:
piclistguy@yahoo.com wrote:
I find that rubbing alcohol (70%) in a small spray bottle comes in
handy for cleaning various things (grease on hands, sunglasses, food
stains on clothes and many more).
I keep a small 2oz spray bottle in my car's center console.
I was wondering if this is dangerous as rubbing alcohol is flammable,
even though its a small amount.
My concern is if the car is left in the hot sun on a hot day
(temperatures in the southwest can broil a car interior), that even
the small amount could ignite or explode.
I like to keep a small can of WD-40 in the glove dept.I do worry
about flammables in the car. They used to make flammable tire
inflators some time ago. I think they have all vanished.
No so much trouble in the car, but the guy changing the tire
could be in for a big surprise. I know what the dessert can do with heat.

greg


Flash point is 81 deg. F but BP is 190. I personally would not want
to spray it in car interior. Imagine a situation where you spray it
on a warm day, slip out of car and get a pleasant surprise from static
electricity ;)
Frank

Extremely surprising, since the lower alcohols are conducting! You can
pour/spray one until the cows come home, you won't get a static build up -
just try the same with toluene... ;-)
 
Finally. after about 6 attemps, all to India and no luck I got thru to a
Florida CS and now I have one on the way. He told me it was RF!
Hank
"Henry Kolesnik" <kolesnik@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:G3Cah.16200$9v5.12767@newssvr29.news.prodigy.net...
I tried a Sony Multi Brand RM-V202 and none of the codes worked. Then I
got a Philips Universal and none the codes worked. Does the Sony RM-333
have special codes, operate in a different band or what. Is there anyway
other way to test the set to see if it has a fault?
tnx
Hnak
"Henry Kolesnik" <kolesnik@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:ZxBah.16196$9v5.5967@newssvr29.news.prodigy.net...
I finally found that the Sony part is a RM-333...
Does anyone know if this uses standard codes on infrared?
tnx
Hank
"Henry Kolesnik" <kolesnik@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:RAmah.31073$yl4.28499@newssvr12.news.prodigy.com...
I just bought a one of these Sony TV/PC monitors as an open box special
and it didn't have the remote. Sony parts wants $84.00 for one but
doesn't have any in stock. The salesman said any Sony remote would work
as they haven't changed the codes in years. We have an older Sony TV
with remote RMV 310 that works find with the old TV but won't do squat
with the new one. Is there something I can do to make it work? Or does
anyone know if the universal/Sony remotes Radio Shack sells are
worthwhile?
tnx

--

73
Hank WD5JFR
 
Frank wrote:
lucasea@sbcglobal.net wrote:

Flash point is 81 deg. F but BP is 190. I personally would not want to
spray it in car interior. Imagine a situation where you spray it on a
warm day, slip out of car and get a pleasant surprise from static
electricity ;)

There are actually plenty of ignition sources in a car besides static
charges...ignition switch, multiple electronic components with physical
switches, relays (don't know if they're sealed, but it would be bad form to
assume they are), etc.

Eric Lucas


Of course. What precipitated my comment on static electricity was guy
I know that set off his flintlock rifle (PA flintlock deer season) when
he stepped out of his pickup. Shot his glove compartment ;)
Frank

Why the heck would someone keep a loaded flitlock rifle in their truck?
 

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