Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[Lee]

Jonesy82 wrote:

would like to know where can i get one that have'nt been copyed. some of my
files have been missing or bad.thanks in advance.


At this time of year, there are lots of church bazaars where you can

find them for a couple of bucks.
Regards
Lee

 

[David Nebenzahl]

avri.schneider@gmail.com spake thus:

quietguy wrote:

Yeh? Maybe my memory is slipping (again!) but as I recallthe problem for me
was that suddenly theWindows box refused to acknowledge that myflash drive
wasplugged in, but....

anyway good luck

Really? Which software tool did you use to recover?
How did IT recognize the USB device?

Answer: it didn't.

No software tool can overcome basic hardware problems like this. If the
system can't talk to the device, there's no way the software can
magically overcome this.

The software is there to handle formatting (i.e., scrambled file
systems, etc.) kind of problems.


--
Just as McDonald's is where you go when you're hungry but don't really
care about the quality of your food, Wikipedia is where you go when
you're curious but don't really care about the quality of your knowledge.

- Matthew White's WikiWatch (http://users.erols.com/mwhite28/wikiwoo.htm)

 

[James Sweet]

PorkChop wrote:

Thanks guys, this is all I needed to hear. I don't think the circuit
board can be too damaged, as the TV still have an excellent picture
after a few minutes. I will get them replaced and let you know what
happens.

Cheers!

If the electrolyte sits on the board for long, it will be damaged. That
stuff corrodes copper like crazy.

 

[Andy Cuffe]

On 3 Nov 2006 05:36:29 -0800, "yr1869" <yr1869@hotmail.com> wrote:

I have Hitachi 42 inch plazma EDTV for 2 yers now. And some vertical
thin lines show ups recently on the screen about every 3/4 of an inch.
They change colors from red to black depends on what's on.
Is that fixable problem? If yes, then how? Did anybody had this problem
before? Help

With any flat panel display, vertical, or horizontal lines in the
picture are usually caused by the driver ICs which are bonded to the
glass. This would require replacing the entire screen.
Andy Cuffe

acuffe@gmail.com

 

[Homer J Simpson]

<avri.schneider@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1162530726.013535.3980@m7g2000cwm.googlegroups.com...

I hope it is only the controller chip (or any other component) that is
burnt, and not the flash chip itself.

I wouldn't assume anything was burnt until there was no other possibility.
It's the result you want least.


--
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
+ Required crap appended to avoid restrictions imposed by brain +
+ damaged idiots.
+
+ Server Response: '441 Posting Failed (Rejected by POST filter)', +
+ Port: 119, Secure(SSL): No, Server Error: 441,
+
+ Error Number: 0x800CCCA9
+
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

 

[Homer J Simpson]

"PorkChop" <porkchp@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1162557476.602858.224260@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com...

I have found someone at work who can do soldering, so thanks everyone
for some good advice. Cleaning the goo off the circuit board sounds
like a good idea too (I will use my wife's toothbrush).

As long as she uses yours to apply her haemorrhoid cream.



--
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
+ Required crap appended to avoid restrictions imposed by brain +
+ damaged idiots.
+
+ Server Response: '441 Posting Failed (Rejected by POST filter)', +
+ Port: 119, Secure(SSL): No, Server Error: 441,
+
+ Error Number: 0x800CCCA9
+
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

 

[Baron]

Homer J Simpson wrote:

"robotron -x-" <nospamjoey@aol.com> wrote in message
news:454A1B2E.E8BBE68D@aol.com...

I need a 10Meg , 1 watt resistor, colors are brown black blue

This came out of a bose wave radio and they dont carry it at radio
shack

IIRC they do in a pack of resistors. Cheaper than shipping.

500-Piece 1/4-Watt Carbon-Film Resistor Assortment $12.49

Five each of 4.7 meg. Use two in series. You don't need 1 W unless you
are applying 3,000 volts.

If it were a grid leak, he could use a pencil line !

--
Baron:

 

[Michael Kennedy]

Take a soldering iorn and unsolder the flash on both units, then solder the
flash chip you want to recover onto the new flash drive's board.

In short I highly doubt you have the soldering skills needed to do this. You
could learn, but it would still be very tricky.


<avri.schneider@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1162543545.945798.73190@e3g2000cwe.googlegroups.com...
That's exactly what I want to do - how do I do that?

Thanks,
Avri

**THE-RFI-EMI-GUY** wrote:

Why don't you find an exact replacement flash drive and solder the flash
chip onto the good board?

avri.schneider@gmail.com wrote:

These tools will only work if the device is recognized by the PC - I
believe the USB controller chip is burnt, so you can't really use any
software tools.

I hope it is only the controller chip (or any other component) that is
burnt, and not the flash chip itself.

Thanks for the reply though...

Regards,
Avri
quietguy wrote:


You don't think trying to recover the data with some of the Flash Drive
repair tools is worthwhile? Or perhaps you have tried that already

David - who fixed his flash drive with those free tools

avri.schneider@gmail.com wrote:



Hello,

A friend of mine has given me his USB flash disk, containing some
important documents he would like to recover. The flash disk was not
being recognized on insert.

I took out the cover and there are marks of something that appears
burnt on a chip made by Chipsbank - it is the controller chip.

I would like to know if a darker color on the dot in the bottom corner
of the chip (the orientation marking) - is indicative of a burnt chip.

The model of the controller chip is CBM1180 and it's serial is
B32095-2.

What steps should I make in order to verify that the chip is indeed
burnt?

Is there a tool I can use in order to remove the flash memory from the
damaged USB device, and from a working one, then replace the flash from
the non working USB device on the working USB controller?

How should I verify the capacity of the flash? It has 48 pins and there
is a marking on it saying
"MR-FLASH
A0542HS28SI"

Would it make a difference if I solder it to a controller board
designed for a chip with a different capacity?

Your help is greatly appreciated.

With Kind Regards,
Avri Schneider






--
Joe Leikhim K4SAT
"The RFI-EMI-GUY"Š

"Treason doth never prosper: what's the reason?
For if it prosper, none dare call it treason."

"Follow The Money" ;-P



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Why don't you find an exact replacement flash drive and solder the
flash chip onto the good board?<br
br
a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated"
href="mailto:avri.schneider@gmail.com">avri.schneider@gmail.com</a
wrote:<br
blockquote cite="mid1162530726.013535.3980@m7g2000cwm.googlegroups.com"
type="cite"
pre wrap="">These tools will only work if the device is recognized by
the PC - I
believe the USB controller chip is burnt, so you can't really use any
software tools.

I hope it is only the controller chip (or any other component) that is
burnt, and not the flash chip itself.

Thanks for the reply though...

Regards,
Avri
quietguy wrote:
/pre
blockquote type="cite"
pre wrap="">You don't think trying to recover the data with some of
the Flash Drive
repair tools is worthwhile? Or perhaps you have tried that already

David - who fixed his flash drive with those free tools

a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated"
href="mailto:avri.schneider@gmail.com"&gt;avri.schneider@gmail.com</a> wrote:

/pre
blockquote type="cite"
pre wrap=""&gt;Hello,

A friend of mine has given me his USB flash disk, containing some
important documents he would like to recover. The flash disk was not
being recognized on insert.

I took out the cover and there are marks of something that appears
burnt on a chip made by Chipsbank - it is the controller chip.

I would like to know if a darker color on the dot in the bottom corner
of the chip (the orientation marking) - is indicative of a burnt chip.

The model of the controller chip is CBM1180 and it's serial is
B32095-2.

What steps should I make in order to verify that the chip is indeed
burnt?

Is there a tool I can use in order to remove the flash memory from the
damaged USB device, and from a working one, then replace the flash from
the non working USB device on the working USB controller?

How should I verify the capacity of the flash? It has 48 pins and there
is a marking on it saying
"MR-FLASH
A0542HS28SI"

Would it make a difference if I solder it to a controller board
designed for a chip with a different capacity?

Your help is greatly appreciated.

With Kind Regards,
Avri Schneider
/pre
/blockquote
/blockquote
pre wrap=""&gt;&lt;!----
/pre
/blockquote
br
pre class="moz-signature" cols="72"&gt;--
Joe Leikhim K4SAT
"The RFI-EMI-GUY"&amp;copy;

"Treason doth never prosper: what's the reason?
For if it prosper, none dare call it treason."

"Follow The Money" ;-P

/pre
/body
/html

--------------090702090402050404080102--

 

[Baron]

Michael Kennedy wrote:

Take a soldering iorn and unsolder the flash on both units, then
solder the flash chip you want to recover onto the new flash drive's
board.

In short I highly doubt you have the soldering skills needed to do
this. You could learn, but it would still be very tricky.


avri.schneider@gmail.com&gt; wrote in message
news:1162543545.945798.73190@e3g2000cwe.googlegroups.com...
That's exactly what I want to do - how do I do that?

Thanks,
Avri

Without a hot air removal tool.... Almost impossible to remove damage
free ! Also the chip may be bonded to the pcb !

--
Baron:

 

[Jim Yanik]

"gavspav" &lt;gavspav@gmail.com&gt; wrote in
news:1162597004.167915.73220@e3g2000cwe.googlegroups.com:

I've a hunch you are right about the inverter board but basically am
well out of my depth.

I took the monitor to the shop yesterday and paid them 30 quid to tell
me what was wrong with it and how much it would cost to fix it.

Thanks for all your help but I'm afraid I had to admit defeat!

Gavin

It's a wise man who acknowledges his limitations.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

 

[Michael Kennedy]

Isn't plazma spelled plasma?


"Andy Cuffe" &lt;acuffe@gmail.com&gt; wrote in message
news:k01nk2pgd3u1cmsvre5acvmd2h3ulnhpvf@4ax.com...

On 3 Nov 2006 05:36:29 -0800, "yr1869" &lt;yr1869@hotmail.com&gt; wrote:

I have Hitachi 42 inch plazma EDTV for 2 yers now. And some vertical
thin lines show ups recently on the screen about every 3/4 of an inch.
They change colors from red to black depends on what's on.
Is that fixable problem? If yes, then how? Did anybody had this problem
before? Help

With any flat panel display, vertical, or horizontal lines in the
picture are usually caused by the driver ICs which are bonded to the
glass. This would require replacing the entire screen.
Andy Cuffe

acuffe@gmail.com

 

[Gandalf]

meow2222@care2.com wrote:

Gandalf wrote:
noonehere@mail.com wrote:

I have a RCA ColorTrack 2000 20" (F20705DG) from about 1991. Today the
picture is almost completed faded/washed-out of color. It is bright,
white-ish looking image with a little color, and slightly diagonal
lines. It starts out with a black screen and a white line, then pops to
the faded picture.

Any thoughts on what the problem might be? I'm trying to evaluate
whether to get a new TV (LCD HDTV) and just take this one to the dump,
or try and repair it (actually, I planned on buying a new one and
bringing this one upstairs, but it might not be worth it). I've really
liked this TV (though it has had an intermittent problem where when I
turn it on, sometimes it has a purple-ish halo look, and I need to turn
it off and on again to get a good picture).

Thanks in advance.

At the very least, you've got high voltage problems and possibly
vertical issues as well,

I cant see anything that indicates any issue with eht or vert scan,
what makes you think that?


NT

Fault in vert circuit can cause black screen with horizontal white line.

Fault in flyback/hv can cause retrace lines.

Among other things, obviously.

Point is, it's not worth repair regardless.

--
-Gandalf

Never meddle in the affairs of a dragon for you are crunchy and taste
good with ketchup!

 

[Michael Black]

Baron (me@home.com) writes:

Michael Kennedy wrote:

Take a soldering iorn and unsolder the flash on both units, then
solder the flash chip you want to recover onto the new flash drive's
board.

In short I highly doubt you have the soldering skills needed to do
this. You could learn, but it would still be very tricky.


avri.schneider@gmail.com&gt; wrote in message
news:1162543545.945798.73190@e3g2000cwe.googlegroups.com...
That's exactly what I want to do - how do I do that?

Thanks,
Avri


Without a hot air removal tool.... Almost impossible to remove damage
free ! Also the chip may be bonded to the pcb !

I once used a paint stripping gun to get some memory ICs off an odd

motherboard, and then put them on some SIMM boards that I'd taken
the 256K ram ICs off. It worked, though unfortunately those 1meg
SIMMs I made for my Mac Plus didn't refresh properly in that Mac
Plus, so the whole process was a waste. After it started crashing,
that's when I read that there'd be problems with that scenario because
the higher density ram I was using wasn't compatible with the Mac Plus.

Of course, when I did buy some 1meg SIMMs a bit later, I ended up
using that heat gun to reflow the solder connections on one of the
store bought SIMMs, because one was flakey.

Michael

 

[Michael A. Terrell]

Baron wrote:

Michael Kennedy wrote:

Take a soldering iorn and unsolder the flash on both units, then
solder the flash chip you want to recover onto the new flash drive's
board.

In short I highly doubt you have the soldering skills needed to do
this. You could learn, but it would still be very tricky.


avri.schneider@gmail.com&gt; wrote in message
news:1162543545.945798.73190@e3g2000cwe.googlegroups.com...
That's exactly what I want to do - how do I do that?

Thanks,
Avri


Without a hot air removal tool.... Almost impossible to remove damage
free ! Also the chip may be bonded to the pcb !

--
Baron:

I used to change 288 pin CPU chips on embedded controller boards by
hand, while working under a stereo microscope. It takes a very steady
pair of hands, lots of practice, and really good tools, but it can be
done.


--
Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to
prove it.
Member of DAV #85.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida

 

[Michael A. Terrell]

PorkChop wrote:

quietguy wrote:
The electros are cheap, but those nice chaps are damned expensive to buy -
had you thought about just renting one for the day instead?

I have found someone at work who can do soldering, so thanks everyone
for some good advice. Cleaning the goo off the circuit board sounds
like a good idea too (I will use my wife's toothbrush).

If you do, you'll need a new toothbrush, or a new wife.


--
Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to
prove it.
Member of DAV #85.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida

 

[John Bachman]

On Thu, 02 Nov 2006 17:25:02 -0500, David Naylor
&lt;dave1645@comcast.net&gt; wrote:

John Bachman wrote:
Is anyone here familiar with the "green blob" problem on Sony SXRD
rear projection TV's. Any insight to the eventual solution?

TIA

John
Yup I do, in fact just went for sony traning on new models today. and
that green blob your talking about is a crack in one of the lcd displays
, you will need a new light engine. no two ways about it

Is the replacement light engine likely to fail in the same way or has
Sony fixed the problem?

TIA

John

 

[Mark D. Zacharias]

John Bachman wrote:

On Thu, 02 Nov 2006 17:25:02 -0500, David Naylor
dave1645@comcast.net&gt; wrote:

John Bachman wrote:
Is anyone here familiar with the "green blob" problem on Sony SXRD
rear projection TV's. Any insight to the eventual solution?

TIA

John
Yup I do, in fact just went for sony traning on new models today.
and that green blob your talking about is a crack in one of the lcd
displays , you will need a new light engine. no two ways about it

Is the replacement light engine likely to fail in the same way or has
Sony fixed the problem?

TIA

John

Sony's been having lots and lots of these type problem on all their LCD rear
projector models.
Word has it they're installing UV filtering in the new replacement engines,
but it will probably be a while before those show up as repair parts.

To answer your question, yes, at some point the problem or some similar
problem, will probably recur.

Mark Z.

 

[default]

On 4 Nov 2006 01:00:12 GMT, Jim Yanik &lt;jyanik@abuse.gov&gt; wrote:

It's a wise man who acknowledges his limitations.
Dirty Harry

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[Baron]

Michael A. Terrell wrote:

Baron wrote:

Michael Kennedy wrote:

Take a soldering iorn and unsolder the flash on both units, then
solder the flash chip you want to recover onto the new flash
drive's board.

In short I highly doubt you have the soldering skills needed to do
this. You could learn, but it would still be very tricky.


avri.schneider@gmail.com&gt; wrote in message
news:1162543545.945798.73190@e3g2000cwe.googlegroups.com...
That's exactly what I want to do - how do I do that?

Thanks,
Avri


Without a hot air removal tool.... Almost impossible to remove
damage
free ! Also the chip may be bonded to the pcb !

--
Baron:


I used to change 288 pin CPU chips on embedded controller boards by
hand, while working under a stereo microscope. It takes a very steady
pair of hands, lots of practice, and really good tools, but it can be
done.

Without a doubt ! I never had the luxury of a microscope. &lt;Envy&gt;
The hot air kit cost an arm and a half, but it made the job ten times
easier to do ! From my point of view the component was usually dead
anyway ! It was more important to minimise board re-work damage.

--
Baron:

 

[William R. Walsh]

Hi!

If you do, you'll need a new toothbrush, or a new wife.

I'd strongly suggest the new toothbrush route.

William