Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

gavspav wrote:

Thanks for the responses.

I have checked the external power supply and it is fine.

Can't see any broken wires.

Don't know how old the unit is as it was bought off ebay a few months
ago. Looked new when i got it though.

I do get alot of mad flickering sometimes before it goes into standby.

Thanks,

Gavin

sounds like and inverter board problem to me, caps changing value is
Click to expand...
quite common sucking down the power supply
 
Dani wrote:

When repairing rear projection T.V., high voltage 2nd anodes, what type
of silicone
do you guys use to seal the anode cap? Do you have a part number? I
have used a
few different types, & no call backs, but I want to ensure the high
voltage won't arc!
Thanks, Dani.

i use stardard run of the mill ge silicine sealant from autozone or
Click to expand...
walmart, just let it dry 24 hours before you fire up the set and you
will be all set, i even sealed up a leaking spliter on an old rca projo
and it is still running after 4 years
 
kwansfamily@yahoo.com ha escrito:

I have a small broadcast CABLE tv system. Using 12 Modulators
which accept 12 Audio /Video signals and output composite RF signal.
Each RF output of each Modulator will then feed a signal mixer. So
there are 12 channels. The system is PAL B/G with 6.5 sound spacing.
The problem is that most of the users have only PAL B/G 6 mhz
Televisions. So the users can get the video picture but no sound OR
SOUND WITH TERRIBLE HUMMING
Question is how I can tune the modulator with 6.5 mhz of sound spacing
TO SOUND SPACING 5.5 OR 6 MHZ.

PETER
Click to expand...
If you are talking about the audio carrier, Pal BG is 5.5mhz and Pal I
is 6mhz. There is no such thing as a ' Pal BG 6mhz
telvision'....perhaps you need to rephrase your question, as it doesn't
seem to make sense.
-B.
 
Check out this site http://www.duxcw.com/faq/ps/ps4.htm
You usually need to jump 2 pins in order to get supply to turn on, "outside
the box"

"kell" <kellrobinson@billburg.com> wrote in message
news:1162398857.068903.66420@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com...
I found the skeleton of an old computer with the power supply in it
that still worked. The power supply will only turn on when it's
connected to the motherboard. I'm trying to figure out how I can turn
the power supply on without the motherboard.
This is (was) a pentium II and the power supply says "Newton"
something, but I don't have the model number with me.
The cables that go from the power supply to the motherboard, in
addition to the usual red/yellow/black power/ground lines, have orange,
green, blue, violet, grey and white wires.
I was hoping there is some standard color-coding for the "power good"
wires that I have to jump or whatever the procedure is, to get the
power supply to turn on by itself.
Click to expand...
 
"robotron -x-" <nospamjoey@aol.com> wrote in message
news:454A1B2E.E8BBE68D@aol.com...
I need a 10Meg , 1 watt resistor, colors are brown black blue

This came out of a bose wave radio and they dont carry it at radio
shack
Click to expand...
IIRC they do in a pack of resistors. Cheaper than shipping.

500-Piece 1/4-Watt Carbon-Film Resistor Assortment $12.49

Five each of 4.7 meg. Use two in series. You don't need 1 W unless you are
applying 3,000 volts.


--
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
+ Required crap appended to avoid restrictions imposed by brain +
+ damaged idiots.
+
+ Server Response: '441 Posting Failed (Rejected by POST filter)', +
+ Port: 119, Secure(SSL): No, Server Error: 441,
+
+ Error Number: 0x800CCCA9
+
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
 
In article <1162286189.574001.37260@e64g2000cwd.googlegroups.com>,
ch <chianghee@gmail.com> wrote:
It is suppose to improve on car radio reception quality by reducing
voltage fluctuation noise. Anyway I am not able to verify that as I
have not yet install it.
Click to expand...
If the largest cap is 1000ľF it'll not have much effect on the average car
radio, voltage wise.

--
*If one synchronized swimmer drowns, do the rest have to drown too?

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
 
Thanks for the responses.

I have checked the external power supply and it is fine.

Can't see any broken wires.

Don't know how old the unit is as it was bought off ebay a few months
ago. Looked new when i got it though.

I do get alot of mad flickering sometimes before it goes into standby.

Thanks,

Gavin
 
In article <AaadnUKll9619trYnZ2dnUVZ_sednZ2d@comcast.com>,
Robert11 <rgsros@notme.com> wrote:
Wife turned on a hall light switch last night, big flash by one of the
hall lights, and the ckt breaker tripped.

Was about 2 days since putting in a new bulb there.
Was the el-cheapo brand picked up at CVS, and made in China.

Replaced the bulb with a GE one, and so far everything seems O.K.

Question: I can't imagine how anything, like e.g., a broken filament
perhaps, can short out the circuit.
But, perhaps ?

Can anyone think of a bulb failure mechanism that might trip the breaker?
Click to expand...
Have you recently changed from fuses to circuit breakers? A bulb blowing
and tripping one isn't uncommon.

--
*A snooze button is a poor substitute for no alarm clock at all *

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
 
"N Cook" <diverse8@gazeta.pl> writes:

Robert11 <rgsros@notme.com> wrote in message
news:AaadnUKll9619trYnZ2dnUVZ_sednZ2d@comcast.com...
Hi,

Boy, this is a funny one.

Wife turned on a hall light switch last night, big flash by one of the
hall
lights, and the ckt breaker tripped.

Was about 2 days since putting in a new bulb there.
Was the el-cheapo brand picked up at CVS, and made in China.

Replaced the bulb with a GE one, and so far everything seems O.K.

Question: I can't imagine how anything, like e.g., a broken filament
perhaps, can short out the circuit.
But, perhaps ?

Can anyone think of a bulb failure mechanism that might trip the breaker ?

Or, might this be just a coincidence ?

I'm only going by memory and may have it a bit wrong.
A tiny part of the filament wears to the point it creates a hot-spot which
rapidly gets worse causing the first part of the intense flare. In that
super-heated process a plasma state is formed within the bulb. In a plasma
state the effective conductivity across the 2 filament suspension end points
becomes orders of magnitude less than the original filament resistance so
for very short duration , can pass tens or hundreds of amps.
It is the same mechanism whereby a lightning discharge through air can pass
millions of amps through a channel that is only about 1/2 inch in diameter
which no metal could pass. The same discharge passing into the right soil/
conditions leaves a yards long but same 1/2 inch wide hollow tube punched
through the ground, see keyword fulgurite.
Click to expand...
You've got it about right. And in response to the other post, it's
rarely a matter of the filament falling across the terminals.

http://members.misty.com/don/bulb1.html#wbs

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included in the
subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.
 
Eeyore wrote:
"dkuhajda@locl.net" wrote:


Robert11 wrote:

Hi,

Boy, this is a funny one.

Wife turned on a hall light switch last night, big flash by one of the hall
lights, and the ckt breaker tripped.

Was about 2 days since putting in a new bulb there.
Was the el-cheapo brand picked up at CVS, and made in China.

Replaced the bulb with a GE one, and so far everything seems O.K.

Question: I can't imagine how anything, like e.g., a broken filament
perhaps, can short out the circuit.
But, perhaps ?

Can anyone think of a bulb failure mechanism that might trip the breaker ?

Or, might this be just a coincidence ?

Thanks,
Bob

How old is the electrical system in the house? In most places of the
U.S. AFCIs have been the standard since 2002. They were available for
several years before 2002 and may actually be what is installed in your
house's breaker box.

AFCI arc fault circuit interupt type of circuit breaker. Detects the
arc condition and trips.

As others have already stated, the arc in the bulb could draw enough
current to trip most circuit breakers. Is fairly common in my
experience as at least once every couple of years I have bulb "blow"
and trip the breaker. Usually though it is one of the three way bulbs.


What's a '3-way bulb' ?

Graham


Multiple light wattage settings dependant on the switch setting of the
Click to expand...
lamp itself. IIRC contains 2 filaments as in 60W, 100W or 160W total
combined with both switched on. YBMV (your bulb may vary)

Steve
 
noonehere@mail.com wrote:

I have a RCA ColorTrack 2000 20" (F20705DG) from about 1991. Today the
picture is almost completed faded/washed-out of color. It is bright,
white-ish looking image with a little color, and slightly diagonal
lines. It starts out with a black screen and a white line, then pops to
the faded picture.

Any thoughts on what the problem might be? I'm trying to evaluate
whether to get a new TV (LCD HDTV) and just take this one to the dump,
or try and repair it (actually, I planned on buying a new one and
bringing this one upstairs, but it might not be worth it). I've really
liked this TV (though it has had an intermittent problem where when I
turn it on, sometimes it has a purple-ish halo look, and I need to turn
it off and on again to get a good picture).

Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...
If I've guessed right from the description, it sounds like the
backgorund is going way up. This causes the whitishness, dilutes the
colours, and causes the retrace lines to show up. This is a relatively
simple fault to fix. First suspect would be the pot that adjusts
'background' setting. Twiddling this back and forth a bit and setting
it to the same place may well be all thats needed.

Since I'm not familiar with you, I'll just say there are assorted risks
in tvs that you need to know and avoid.


NT
 
Hi!

2. Switch power supplies do need a minimum load for operating.
Click to expand...
Why is this mentioned when the topic of computer power supplies comes up?

Over an eleven year span I've found only *one* computer power supply that
would not work properly with no load.

William
 
"William R. Walsh" <newsgroups1@idontwantjunqueemail.walshcomptech.com>
wrote in message news:0Ic2h.220978$FQ1.73339@attbi_s71...
Hi!

2. Switch power supplies do need a minimum load for operating.

Why is this mentioned when the topic of computer power supplies comes up?

Over an eleven year span I've found only *one* computer power supply that
would not work properly with no load.
Click to expand...
Are the voltages all properly regulated with no load?

Bob
 
"kell" <kellrobinson@billburg.com> wrote in message
news:1162425513.423074.13240@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...
kell wrote:
I found the skeleton of an old computer with the power supply in it
that still worked. The power supply will only turn on when it's
connected to the motherboard. I'm trying to figure out how I can turn
the power supply on without the motherboard.
This is (was) a pentium II and the power supply says "Newton"
something, but I don't have the model number with me.
The cables that go from the power supply to the motherboard, in
addition to the usual red/yellow/black power/ground lines, have orange,
green, blue, violet, grey and white wires.
I was hoping there is some standard color-coding for the "power good"
wires that I have to jump or whatever the procedure is, to get the
power supply to turn on by itself.

I found it by a process of elimination, snipping wires in a certain
order until I had it narrowed down to a couple of candidates. Then I
made my best guess, grounded the green wire, and now I have a working
power supply.
Click to expand...
I'd have to agree that it would have been a lot easier to
spend 2 minutes with google to find what you wanted.

Bob
 
Bill S. Wrote:
In article Dartattack.2giiba@diybanter.com,
Dartattack.2giiba@diybanter.com says...-
Is that same 7.5K used in the Model CS4727? If so thanks.-

Damfino, that model number doesn't come up in my model list.
They used that setup in a lot of models with varying resistor
values depending on how hard they wanted to whack the HOT base.
Click to expand...
Well it looks like C432 was only problem . Decided to try and fire tv
up after replacing the 100uF cap and Tv looks and works great. Thanks
for the tips. But I still wish I had a schematic for the 27y100-00AA
chassis.Sounds like a common problem on a lot of magnavox sets.


Greg

Here's a link to a pic of an Identical Tv on ebay in case you were
wondering if the model number was wrong http://tinyurl.com/yda5vk




--
Dartattack
 
Buy a copy on e-bay
You can get the full install for less than $40


"Jonesy82" <Jonesy82@cox.net> wrote in message
news:5Nx2h.7052$IC.604@newsfe21.lga...
would like to know where can i get one that have'nt been copyed. some of
my files have been missing or bad.thanks in advance.
Click to expand...
 
These tools will only work if the device is recognized by the PC - I
believe the USB controller chip is burnt, so you can't really use any
software tools.

I hope it is only the controller chip (or any other component) that is
burnt, and not the flash chip itself.

Thanks for the reply though... :)

Regards,
Avri
quietguy wrote:
You don't think trying to recover the data with some of the Flash Drive
repair tools is worthwhile? Or perhaps you have tried that already

David - who fixed his flash drive with those free tools

avri.schneider@gmail.com wrote:

Hello,

A friend of mine has given me his USB flash disk, containing some
important documents he would like to recover. The flash disk was not
being recognized on insert.

I took out the cover and there are marks of something that appears
burnt on a chip made by Chipsbank - it is the controller chip.

I would like to know if a darker color on the dot in the bottom corner
of the chip (the orientation marking) - is indicative of a burnt chip.

The model of the controller chip is CBM1180 and it's serial is
B32095-2.

What steps should I make in order to verify that the chip is indeed
burnt?

Is there a tool I can use in order to remove the flash memory from the
damaged USB device, and from a working one, then replace the flash from
the non working USB device on the working USB controller?

How should I verify the capacity of the flash? It has 48 pins and there
is a marking on it saying
"MR-FLASH
A0542HS28SI"

Would it make a difference if I solder it to a controller board
designed for a chip with a different capacity?

Your help is greatly appreciated.

With Kind Regards,
Avri Schneider
Click to expand...
 
Why don't you find an exact replacement flash drive and solder the flash
chip onto the good board?

avri.schneider@gmail.com wrote:

These tools will only work if the device is recognized by the PC - I
believe the USB controller chip is burnt, so you can't really use any
software tools.

I hope it is only the controller chip (or any other component) that is
burnt, and not the flash chip itself.

Thanks for the reply though... :)

Regards,
Avri
quietguy wrote:


You don't think trying to recover the data with some of the Flash Drive
repair tools is worthwhile? Or perhaps you have tried that already

David - who fixed his flash drive with those free tools

avri.schneider@gmail.com wrote:



Hello,

A friend of mine has given me his USB flash disk, containing some
important documents he would like to recover. The flash disk was not
being recognized on insert.

I took out the cover and there are marks of something that appears
burnt on a chip made by Chipsbank - it is the controller chip.

I would like to know if a darker color on the dot in the bottom corner
of the chip (the orientation marking) - is indicative of a burnt chip.

The model of the controller chip is CBM1180 and it's serial is
B32095-2.

What steps should I make in order to verify that the chip is indeed
burnt?

Is there a tool I can use in order to remove the flash memory from the
damaged USB device, and from a working one, then replace the flash from
the non working USB device on the working USB controller?

How should I verify the capacity of the flash? It has 48 pins and there
is a marking on it saying
"MR-FLASH
A0542HS28SI"

Would it make a difference if I solder it to a controller board
designed for a chip with a different capacity?

Your help is greatly appreciated.

With Kind Regards,
Avri Schneider
Click to expand...
--
Joe Leikhim K4SAT
"The RFI-EMI-GUY"Š

"Treason doth never prosper: what's the reason?
For if it prosper, none dare call it treason."

"Follow The Money" ;-P
 
Yeh? Maybe my memory is slipping (again!) but as I recallthe problem for me
was that suddenly theWindows box refused to acknowledge that myflash drive
wasplugged in, but....

anyway good luck

David


avri.schneider@gmail.com wrote:

These tools will only work if the device is recognized by the PC - I
believe the USB controller chip is burnt, so you can't really use any
software tools.
Click to expand...
 
quietguy wrote:
The electros are cheap, but those nice chaps are damned expensive to buy -
had you thought about just renting one for the day instead?
Click to expand...
I have found someone at work who can do soldering, so thanks everyone
for some good advice. Cleaning the goo off the circuit board sounds
like a good idea too (I will use my wife's toothbrush).
 
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