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It's a JVC HR-S3500U.
S-VHS VCR (also does the VHS-ET)
S-VHS VCR (also does the VHS-ET)
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Not if you have to have JVC VHS-ET and SVHSGetting a free one is easier but if you insist:
Are the belts ok?It's a JVC HR-S3500U.
S-VHS VCR (also does the VHS-ET)
Philips/Fluke no longer sell it. Here's a scan of my own:I got a Fluke 97 Scopemeter, ...
I am looking for the service manual ...
It eats tapes only sometimes, usually when I stop it. Problem is, that
it doesn't have a rubber idler or any belts. so where should I be
looking.
I'd replace it, but I can't buy one with a digital tuner until next
year and I'd hate to buy a new one only to throw it away early next
year.
Thanks, now time to get in and figure it out... Thanks again.- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 'i' from my address when replying by email.
The 6.3 amp fuse was open. I replaced it with a 4.0 amp just for test
purposes. The degaussing coils happened to be unplugged at the time so
that I could get the chassis out for inspection and the set came on
fine. I then plugged the coils in and tried it. There was a loud hum
from the coils and the fuse lit up and opened. It seems that I recall a
certain series of set that had a problem with the degauss thermistors.
Can't remember if it was Panasonic or someone else's though. I haven't
got a 6.3 amp fuse but I'm pretty sure judging by the way the 4.0 amp
lit up the 6.3 would probably not last either. Is anyone familiar with
this problem who can possibly elaborate on it further? Thanks for any
help. Lenny Stein, Barlen Electronics.
It doesn't have any belts.Are the belts ok?
Cheers for replyingOn Mon, 9 Oct 2006 20:10:02 +0100, markkd
markkd.2ffmas@diybanter.com wrote:
-
I wish to replace an old Sunvic room thermostat controlling the coal
fired central heating system. I have purchased a SUNVIC TLX 9201
thermostat. The existing wires are red, yellow, blue & yellow/green.
The new thermostat has 4 connection points.(ie: they are numbered
1,2,3,4) Could someone please guide me as to where these wires should
be placed-cheers!-
How are the terminals on the old thermostat labelled?
How are the terminals defined in the documentation for the new
thermostat?
Some older thermostats actually had words (or at least abbreviations)
to indicate the purpose of each terminal.
I got it free about five years ago. Worked pretty good until a "tuning?"So you got what I needed about 7 years ago. Marvelous.
Probably for more than one reason... Very few integrated circuits andYou know what you got there, a piece of technology that isn't made
anymore.
Magic, eh?I will splain.
The main 130 volt regulator in that set is the HVOT driver. The
regulation can be so tight that the picture shrinks on high brightness
due to the mass of the electrons. Therefore they have a secondary
regulator. See, in a PTV raster size must stay pretty constant. If not,
convergence would never follow. I mean they had a chart for every
kilovolt that dropped per milliampere.
Yeah, not knowing what some of the zener values are doesn't help muchThe main regulator is synced of course, and as it spreads it's on time
to handle the load, and HV is increased pre-emptively. It is a
wonderful system, but a real bitch to work on. They were a bit
self-destructive, with 320 VDC on tap it was not hard to go poof.
set first, verify that there is no voltage on the test points and THEN useAmma tellyas one more thing about the early PTV300s, do not work on
them in a basement, even WITH an isolation transformer. Just don't do
it.
I don't trust electricity to follow the rules. As a hobbyist, I unplug the
Anyone have a link to picture of what this mode switch most likely
looks like? I've never done one before and it might be helpful if I
knew exactly what to look for and if I have to desolder it before
cleaning, etc.
If in doubt you might want to just call an electrician, a thermostatThe instructions for the new thermostat state the following:-
1=common
2=satisfied
3=demand
4=connect to neutral
I am a complete novice when it comes to electrics so any suggestions
that will prevent the house blowing up would be gratefully
received!!!!!!!!
What voltage is involved? 24 V or 240 V?The instructions for the new thermostat state the following:-
1=common
2=satisfied
3=demand
4=connect to neutral
If your VCR chews tapes when the cassette is ejected, then it could beIt eats tapes only sometimes, usually when I stop it. Problem is, that
it doesn't have a rubber idler or any belts. so where should I be
looking.
Lenny ...Replace the Thermistor ( just in case ) and put in a SLOW BLOW
fuse.
That will fix it.
kip
captainvideo462002@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1160511526.807156.127870@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...
The 6.3 amp fuse was open. I replaced it with a 4.0 amp just for test
purposes. The degaussing coils happened to be unplugged at the time so
that I could get the chassis out for inspection and the set came on
fine. I then plugged the coils in and tried it. There was a loud hum
from the coils and the fuse lit up and opened. It seems that I recall a
certain series of set that had a problem with the degauss thermistors.
Can't remember if it was Panasonic or someone else's though. I haven't
got a 6.3 amp fuse but I'm pretty sure judging by the way the 4.0 amp
lit up the 6.3 would probably not last either. Is anyone familiar with
this problem who can possibly elaborate on it further? Thanks for any
help. Lenny Stein, Barlen Electronics.
BTW Panasonic does have a bulletin regarding nuisance fuse blowing with
appropriate remedies.
"kip" <nospam@nospam.com> wrote in message
news:newscache$vy3z6j$6n8$1@newsfeed.niagara.com...
Lenny ...Replace the Thermistor ( just in case ) and put in a SLOW BLOW
fuse.
That will fix it.
kip
captainvideo462002@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1160511526.807156.127870@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...
The 6.3 amp fuse was open. I replaced it with a 4.0 amp just for test
purposes. The degaussing coils happened to be unplugged at the time so
that I could get the chassis out for inspection and the set came on
fine. I then plugged the coils in and tried it. There was a loud hum
from the coils and the fuse lit up and opened. It seems that I recall a
certain series of set that had a problem with the degauss thermistors.
Can't remember if it was Panasonic or someone else's though. I haven't
got a 6.3 amp fuse but I'm pretty sure judging by the way the 4.0 amp
lit up the 6.3 would probably not last either. Is anyone familiar with
this problem who can possibly elaborate on it further? Thanks for any
help. Lenny Stein, Barlen Electronics.