Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[Homer J Simpson]

"Demon Lord of Confusion" <verwarring@verwirren.confused> wrote in message
newsan.2006.10.02.19.34.04.914171@verwirren.confused...

The animated answer to Al Bundy.

Peg Bundy: "All men are idiots. I married their king".

 

[David Naylor]

Dani wrote:

Model # 27F400T C311 chassis # M134C, no raster, high voltage tuning, &
audio &
filiament ok, measure G 2 at CRT board, now set works fine! Anyone see
this?
Intermittent bad G 2 from the flyback? Dani.

yup it is caused by a poor solder joint on the EW board, solder the

whole thing problem gone

 

[John Fields]

On Mon, 02 Oct 2006 17:30:19 GMT, "Homer J Simpson"
<nobody@nowhere.com> wrote:

"John Fields" <jfields@austininstruments.com> wrote in message
newsl72i2punc1bvr44eu6lfq4n9h8cqrl5dk@4ax.com...

So, even the four-year-old has to dumb it down for you?

Other way around. I need him to translate your demented babblings into
something approaching human speech.

---
If it's for _your_ consumption, why bother? A few barks and a bowl
of Alpo ought to keep you happy enough...


--
John Fields
Professional Circuit Designer

 

[Homer J Simpson]

"John Fields" <jfields@austininstruments.com> wrote in message
news:3d43i2hd1uslfconfqkg5fhp4vjsurcf26@4ax.com...

If it's for _your_ consumption, why bother? A few barks and a bowl
of Alpo ought to keep you happy enough...

Depends not fitting snugly?

 

[John Fields]

On Mon, 02 Oct 2006 23:26:37 GMT, "Homer J Simpson"
<nobody@nowhere.com> wrote:

"John Fields" <jfields@austininstruments.com> wrote in message
news:3d43i2hd1uslfconfqkg5fhp4vjsurcf26@4ax.com...

If it's for _your_ consumption, why bother? A few barks and a bowl
of Alpo ought to keep you happy enough...

Depends not fitting snugly?

---
Goodbye Homer, you're really not interesting enough to bother with,
but thank you for your time.


--
John Fields
Professional Circuit Designer

 

[Homer J Simpson]

"John Fields" <jfields@austininstruments.com> wrote in message
news:26i3i25f9njconstb13nsdju0qr11nr5r4@4ax.com...

Depends not fitting snugly?

Goodbye Homer, you're really not interesting enough to bother with,
but thank you for your time.

We are the champions - my friends
And we'll keep on fighting - till the end -
We are the champions -
We are the champions
No time for losers
'Cause we are the champions - of the world -

 

[Homer J Simpson]

"John Fields" <jfields@austininstruments.com> wrote in message
newsi43i2tk7n10ppuvvbjstnf2rtfbkcqree@4ax.com...

Well, imitation _is_ the sincerest form of flattery, I suppose, even
if you're forced to aspire to the dregs because that's the best you
can do.

Try a higher dose of fibre.

 

[Bob Parker]

On 2 Oct 2006 19:32:23 -0700, adersonwil@gmail.com wrote:

International Company Now Hiring
Get paid to Give Away FREE Info Packs.
Earn $1 for every free info pack you give away!
Start earning today!
http://www.typeinternational.com/idevaffiliate/idevaffiliate.php?id=7429_70_3_104

Another newsgroup spammer wisely using Google Groups in the knowledge
that they ignore all complaints.

 

[Homer J Simpson]

"The God of Odd Statements" <godofodd@statements.likeyours> wrote in message
newsan.2006.10.03.00.53.57.561319@statements.likeyours...

Isn't it the best America can do? At least, on average.

Yes. On average.

 

[Bill Jeffrey]

Johnny Boy wrote:

-- Magnetic motor 1, the static magnetic field 1) Motor, Edison
is a classic

<snip several pages of crap>

cells, hydrogen combustion "Electrical light" Solar Cell

-----------------

Everywhere, I look, this message appears.

... J

Good of you to publish it again - in its entirety - by giving it a full
blown quote.

Bill

 

[Jeff Findley]

I'm not getting any useful response from this posting, so I'm cross posting
it to a wider audience in the hopes that someone else knows the answer.

And no, the iPod shuffle certainly does not have the same connector as other
iPods, despite some Russian pinout website that says it does.


"Jeff Findley" <jeff.findley@ugs.nojunk.com> wrote in message
news:98203$45226ad9$927a2cf9$19235@FUSE.NET...

Yesterday I bought a few iPod shuffle accessory packs at Radio Shack for
$3 each. In them, among other things, is an iPod Shuffle dock. Of course
I had to rip it apart to see what's inside.

Upon liberation of the circuit board, I found that the iPod shuffle dock
has a slightly non-standard USB A jack on it. It's got the normal 4 pins
for USB, but it's also got five very thin pins on either end and between
the normal USB pins. If you also count the shield, which is wired
separately on this unit, that's 10 pins.

I searched the web for the pinout of this, but came up with nothing. The
dock has two settings, one connects the USB data lines to a host (PC) so
you can use it as a mass storage device. The other setting lets you
charge the shuffle and play music on the shuffle through a headphone/line
output jack.

Does anyone know what the pinout is for this non-standard USB port? A
link would be great.

Thanks,
Jeff
--
"They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a
little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor
safety"
- B. Franklin, Bartlett's Familiar Quotations (1919)

 

[John Keiser]

Thank you very much!

--
Remove -NOSPAM- to contact me.

 

[Arfa Daily]

"Lovguitar" <lovguitar@aol.com> wrote in message
news:1159981063.241885.217980@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...

Hello,

A friend of mine is joining me at a benefit performance for a child
with a very serious medical condition in November. At rehearsal he
told
me that his Polytone Minibrute is blowing fuses, and was using a little

Freedom Amp someone let him borrow.

My friend is a student with very little money and had been told by a
local tech that it would probably cost $400 to analyze and fix the
Polytone amp and
he should just dump it.

I volunteered to take a look at it. I am good at repairing tube amps
but have not worked on solid state stuff. Using my tube approach, I
would look for shorts, bad power tubes, bad bias supply, arcs on the
sockets, check the rectifier, diodes, power
transformer, caps.

In this case, I'm thinking I should start with the power supply --
rectifier and diodes. Probably the power transistors next. In looking
at the circuit boards, I observe a metal film resistor right next to
the bridge rectifier that has a burnt looking area on the circuit board
beneath it, as though it has been heating up. Bridge rectifier getting
more suspicious?

Any advice?

Oh, one more thought. Does anyone know what size fuse is supposed to
be in this amp? It has no fuse right now and I don't know if my friend

has been using the proper replacement fuse in the amp. Wouldn't it be
something if the fuse just blew because it was tired and he has been
replacing it with undervalued fuses?

Please help in any way you can. Value of fuse, schematic, advice in
order of troubleshooting -- all appreciated.


Best regards,


Paul

It's not at all unusual for resistors in the power supply to run hot enough
to discolour the board. However, the bridge could be short circuit. Assuming
a packaged bridge rather than 4 individual diodes, set your meter to ohms
range, black lead to bridge " - " and read to each of the " ~ " pins. If no
short, red probe to bridge " + " and again, measure to each " ~ " pin. That
will check each individual diode in the package. Note that a short reading
across an individual diode or package limb, could be a shorted ceramic cap
that they tend to put acros them - I've had it many times.

The way that the fuse is blown is a good indicator of whats's causing the
problem. If it is totally vapourised and blackened, the problem is very
nearby - possibly the bridge or one of the main smoothing caps, or maybe a
collector/emitter shorted output device. If it blows with a flash, but
doesn't blacken the glass, then the problem is further downstream - may be a
regulator transistor or somesuch. A "soft" blow where the centre of the fuse
wire just melts without much fuss, usually takes more looking for, as it
just indicates that somewhere in the amp is drawing a bit too much current,
probably the output stage, but more of a drive problem than a direct short.
I wouldn't expect a fuse on the power side of the unit to be more than 1 amp
BUT, in answer to your question about the wrong value of fuse being fitted
by your friend, it might actually be the wrong *type* that he's fitting. Any
primary circuit fuse should be a " T " rated type ( delay ). The transformer
inrush current as the magnetic flux in the core builds over a few cycles,
will blow an " F " rated fuse, even of the correct value, every single time
you switch on, until you run out of fuses to put in it ...

Arfa

 

[carneyke]

Ismus be your lucky day ! C584 causes retrace at top of CRT, distorted
(curved corners) in underscan mode = C572 & C592 causes a noisy
picture with excessive jitter. You didn't change all the capacitors or
not in the deflection area. Good Luck


test@test.com wrote:

Recently got a sony PVM-1954Q that had some bad electrolytics in
it.

I recapped the A board, (132 caps, I won't be doing that anytime
soon again) fired it up and did the alignments according to the
service manual (I have that as well).

The only issue that 'remains' is there are 3 lines, one each for
the red, blue, and green guns at the very top of the picture.
This is evident in all modes, 4:3, 16:9, and underscan. You cant
'see' it in 4:3 mode as it's at the very top of the display but
it's there if you move the picture with the vertical centering.

Wave forms and voltages look normal on IC506, 502, Q507 and Q505.

Picture looks good. All other alignments appear to work correctly.

Just can't get rid of those retrace lines. They look abnormal when
you use the 16:9 or underscan modes.

Anyone ever run across anything like this ?

 

[Airioch]

In article <1160047684.164593.290830@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com>,
carneyke@localnet.com says...

Ismus be your lucky day ! C584 causes retrace at top of CRT, distorted
(curved corners) in underscan mode = C572 & C592 causes a noisy
picture with excessive jitter. You didn't change all the capacitors or
not in the deflection area. Good Luck

Ummmm, yes, I actually replaced all the electrolytics in the chassis
with the exception of one of them, C1515, there's some modification on
the trace side of the board that's covering that particular cap.

Didn't replace any of the polystyrene or dipped mylar..

I'll poke around in that area of the chassis, so some resistance checks
on the associated resistors..

Thanks for the reply..

airi-

test@test.com wrote:

Recently got a sony PVM-1954Q that had some bad electrolytics in
it.

I recapped the A board, (132 caps, I won't be doing that anytime
soon again) fired it up and did the alignments according to the
service manual (I have that as well).

The only issue that 'remains' is there are 3 lines, one each for
the red, blue, and green guns at the very top of the picture.
This is evident in all modes, 4:3, 16:9, and underscan. You cant
'see' it in 4:3 mode as it's at the very top of the display but
it's there if you move the picture with the vertical centering.

Wave forms and voltages look normal on IC506, 502, Q507 and Q505.

Picture looks good. All other alignments appear to work correctly.

Just can't get rid of those retrace lines. They look abnormal when
you use the 16:9 or underscan modes.

Anyone ever run across anything like this ?

 

[Dani]

The EEPROM would have to be from a very close model of Samsung to work.
You MAY need to replace the Micro, & EEPROM together to fix it. After
replacing
the parts, you can enter the service menu by:

With the set ON, press Power-Mute-1-8-2-Power in quick succession.
If the set is already off, press Mute-1-8-2-Power

# 1103-001107 IC-EEPROM;24C021,256X8BIT,DIP IC902 $3.41 @ Global Semi

# AA13-30019D IC, SZM322EV7 IC901 $54.77 @ Global Semi

# AA13-30015H IC-MCU;Z8933212PSC-R2054(SZM-284EV) IC901 Inquire @
Global.

Hope this helps, Dani.



sidneybek@yahoo.com wrote:

27" Samsung stereo tv model:TXG2746,chassis:KCT52B,yearec 97,CSA File
No:LR108189.
When vol + or - from tv or remote control are pressed the tv shuts down
and comes back on again on A/V input then you have to press channel +
or - to go back to whatever channel you wanted.Tv does not have any
audio from speakers and there is no volume OSD or bar however menu does
work.
Anyone have any common repair tips for me? if it's the EEPROM can I use
one from a same chassis tv?:

25" Samsung tv model:TXG2547,chassis:KCT52B,year:Oct 9
7

Thanks.

Sidney
Dartmouth,Nova Scotia
Canada