Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[JaimeJr]

could i request from you the default factory preset datas of your samsung
CT-721AP service mode? Thanks

 

[xubuli]

free_tron@yahoo.com Wrote:

I am looking for a PC PCI card that can perform the function of the HP
4194A, but does only need to have a band of 100HZ to 10MHZ.

If anyone know of any thing that might help please let me know.

Thanks
It will be hard. I used a GageApplied PCI DAQ card to bulid a impedance

analyzer. It only works well above 10kHz. I recommend you to try PXI
chasis with arbitrary wave generator and DAQ card.


--
xubuli

 

[DeserTBoB]

On 30 Jul 2005 05:09:06 -0700, "DICK White"
<trippingtoo8track@yahoo.com> wrote:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/<snip

This is the real Bob Scarborough...the real DeserTBoB. The OP who
originally posted this spam is:

Charlie Nudo
160 Bear Run Dr
Drums, PA 18222
thenudofamily@epix.net

....a confirmed con artist and spammer. He shows up under a variety of
different names, such as CAINE, DesertBob Jr., UNIVERSAL MIND,
trippingtoo8track and a rash of others trying to hide his identity,
and since I've been campaigning to have him turned in for spamming,
he's been using my name and nick everywhere.

Nudo's home ISP is epix.net. Email addresses he uses are as follows
(parsed to get around Google's ridiculous email filtering algorithm):

trippin28track "at" yahoo.com
trippingtoo8track "at" yahoo.com
dynobot "at" hotmail.com
winchester1886 "at" hotmail.com
coltblackpowder "at" hotmail.com
thenudofamily "at" epix.net
hsf18 "at" epix.net

You might want to try sending a spam complaint to Epix clicking this
link:

abuse@epix.net

....and including all the following:

________________


Path:
spln!rex!extra.newsguy.com!lotsanews.com!nntp-out.svc.us.xo.net!nntp1-feeder.SJ.svc.us.xo.net!newsfeed.concentric.net!sjc1.nntp.concentric.net!newsfeed-3001.bay.webtv.net!news.glorb.com!postnews.google.com!g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com!not-for-mail
From: "trippingtoo8track" <trippingtoo8track@yahoo.com>
Newsgroups: alt.collecting.8-track-tapes
Subject: HUGE LOT 450 tapes-Ebay-$10
Date: 4 Jul 2005 08:15:12 -0700
Organization: http://groups.google.com
Lines: 2
Message-ID: <1120490112.243819.45190@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>
NNTP-Posting-Host: 216.222.226.228
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
X-Trace: posting.google.com 1120490117 9611 127.0.0.1 (4 Jul 2005
15:15:17 GMT)
X-Complaints-To: groups-abuse@google.com
NNTP-Posting-Date: Mon, 4 Jul 2005 15:15:17 +0000 (UTC)
User-Agent: G2/0.2
Complaints-To: groups-abuse@google.com
Injection-Info: g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com;
posting-host=216.222.226.228;
posting-account=VAdjZAwAAADmKDX4DvJnyDqyw3y1Cbsb
Xref: spln alt.collecting.8-track-tapes:34043

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4744913592

____________________

As you can see, the posting host is epix.net, and they'd probably like
to shut off another spammer. Also, it'd be nice to cc a copy to
group-abuse@google.com , but they don't seem to care very much. Also,
you can file a complaint with eBay, as such spamming is counter to
their own Terms of Service. Use the Security link at the bottom of
any eBay auction page.

Charlie Nudo is a spammer, confirmed petty criminal, con artist and
fraudster. Please do not participate in his fraud auctions as it
keeps him spamming and selling his crap on eBay and Usenet.

 

[none]

On Wed, 27 Jul 2005 01:29:24 GMT, Rich Grise <richgrise@example.net>
wrote:

On Tue, 26 Jul 2005 16:51:20 +0000, Ben Bradley wrote:

On Mon, 25 Jul 2005 21:27:49 GMT, Rich Grise <richgrise@example.net
wrote:

On Mon, 25 Jul 2005 12:03:38 +0000, Gunner wrote:

Then I get to start cutting all of the pallets up and disposing of
them too.

For Heaven's sakes, don't cut up and toss pallets! Those things
are worth real money!

Well, there's this, made from the wood laying out back of an
industrial warehouse, and it's surely worth a lot more than the pallet
it was made from:

http://www.taylorguitars.com/guitars/models/pallet.html

Around here, we have to lock them up in the
shop at night or they disappear.

Do you have many luthiers in your area?

I don't know. What's a 'luthier'? <google> Oh, a lute maker.

No, just scavengers who steal them and sell them to the highest
bidder.

OH! You mean looters.
Cheers!
Rich

 

[YD]

On Sun, 31 Jul 2005 06:54:19 -0500, none <Vampyres@nettaxi.com> wrote:

On Wed, 27 Jul 2005 01:29:24 GMT, Rich Grise <richgrise@example.net
wrote:

On Tue, 26 Jul 2005 16:51:20 +0000, Ben Bradley wrote:

On Mon, 25 Jul 2005 21:27:49 GMT, Rich Grise <richgrise@example.net
wrote:

On Mon, 25 Jul 2005 12:03:38 +0000, Gunner wrote:

Then I get to start cutting all of the pallets up and disposing of
them too.

For Heaven's sakes, don't cut up and toss pallets! Those things
are worth real money!

Well, there's this, made from the wood laying out back of an
industrial warehouse, and it's surely worth a lot more than the pallet
it was made from:

http://www.taylorguitars.com/guitars/models/pallet.html

Around here, we have to lock them up in the
shop at night or they disappear.

Do you have many luthiers in your area?

I don't know. What's a 'luthier'? <google> Oh, a lute maker.

No, just scavengers who steal them and sell them to the highest
bidder.

OH! You mean looters.
Cheers!
Rich

Luthiers make all kinds of stringed instruments, like guitars,
electric and acoustic. They really appreciate old seasoned wood for
the necks and bits and pieces. I know one who, whenever some old
wooden house is torn down, makes a bid for the beams and other large
pieces as long as the termites haven't got at it.

- YD.

--
Remove HAT if replying by mail.

 

[clifto]

barry@psyber.com wrote:

I have repaired electronic equipment for decades and have never seen a
need to brute-force "every electrolytic capacitor" in any piece of
equipment.

I have, but the equipment was on the production line.

--
If John McCain gets the 2008 Republican Presidential nomination,
my vote for President will be a write-in for Jiang Zemin.

 

[Richard Crowley]

"clifto" wrote :

If John McCain gets the 2008 Republican Presidential nomination,
my vote for President will be a write-in for Jiang Zemin.

You should stop hanging around those wasted, commie, ex-hippie
college professors.

 

[A1Web]

Mark Z.
Thank you for your reply!

Can these be replaced easily, and if so where do I find them in the
unit?

TYIA

 

Followups set to sci.electronics.repair .

David Chapman <dave@minda.co.uk> wrote:

Can anyone tell me the secret of how to reset a ZEON TECH MSF radio-
controlled clock after removing the hands to lubricate a sticky
mechanism and then replacing them?

Maybe Zeon can? http://www.zeonltd.co.uk

When first purchased, the fitting of the AA battery caused the clock
to motor round until it eventually displayed the correct time, but
when I now power it up it does that again but the final time displayed
is inaccurate. This is obviously because I don't know what time the
mechanism thinks it is and therefore cannot put the hands back in the
correct places.

Power it up and let it run for a few days so you're sure it has acquired
the radio signal. Then, look at another radio-controlled clock, take
the hands off of the Zeon, and reposition them at the correct time.

Matt Roberds

 

[Mark D. Zacharias]

A1Web wrote:

Mark Z.
Thank you for your reply!

Can these be replaced easily, and if so where do I find them in the
unit?

TYIA

It's been a long time since I worked on one of these, but anyway, I believe
the CD subchassis actually raises and lowers to play a given disc, yes? It's
that subchassis which would have the rubber insulators mounted at it's four
corners. No guarantee this would fix your problem, obviously. Welcome to the
exciting world of electronic repair!

Mark Z.

 

[David Chapman]

Thanks to this who have replied for their suggestions.

Maybe Zeon can? http://www.zeonltd.co.uk

I tried e-mailing them - they haven't replied.

Power it up and let it run for a few days so you're sure it has acquired
the radio signal. Then, look at another radio-controlled clock, take
the hands off of the Zeon, and reposition them at the correct time.

I have two of these clocks so I tried to do that - a number of times.
The main problem is that if you try to put the hands back on while the
clock is running, your finger pressure stops the delicate clock
mechanism from moving for long enough for it to be inaccurate when the
hands do start moving again. Trying to anticipate the amount of delay
hasn't worked for me either. I just don't like having a Radio-Controlled
clock that displays an inaccurate time - even by half a minute or so.

There MUST be a procedure used in the factory when the hands are
initially fitted. Maybe they are positioned to display a certain time
and then the simple electronics are 're-set' or 'zeroed' to start the
clock from that point, but I've tried a number of ideas without success.

It's probably simpler just to buy a new clock and retire the
inaccurate one but I'm sure that the start-up procedure CAN'T be that
hard to discover - or can it?

ATB - Dave


David C.Chapman - Chartered Engineer. FIEE. (dcchapman@minda.co.uk)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
CHAPMAN ASSOCIATES is a Consultancy offering practical expertise and
design skills in the fields of counter-surveillance, electronic protection
and security. Visit our Web site at http://www.minda.co.uk
--------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

[Mark]

How about this????


1) let the clock run for a few days so it syncs up to the radio signal.

2) at exactly 12 midnight, remove the batteries

3) with the clock stopped at 12 midnight, attach the hands so they read
12 midnight

4) replace the batteries and let the clock sync up again


Mark

 

[Glenn Barry]

mattvarney wrote:

Hello,

I am currently working on a couple of NAD 7240PE receivers. On one of
them, the soft-clip feature is not functioning properly (enabling it
causes the right channel to clip at a low level).

The problem seems to be four cracked resistors at the back of the unit,
near the soft-clip switch. They are labeled R413, R423, R414, and R424.
I need the values for these four parts. On the unit where this feature
works OK, all four of the resistors are 1/2 W 10 kOhm with 1%
precision. The bad resistors are 1/4W 8.2 kOhm with 5% precision.
Unfortunately, it appears that all of these are replacements; I don't
have the original parts. I could use 1/2W 10k's in the bad unit, since
they seem to work in the other one, but I'd rather be certain of having
the optimal values [especially since I am planning to sell the amp
after fixing it]. I know that some of you have the service manual. If
you could provide the original values, I would appreciate it _very
much_.

Thanks
Matthew Varney

The magic Numbers are 8.2K + - 5% 1/2W for all 4

 

[Tim Schwartz]

Glenn,

According to the service manual, the resistors are 8K2, 1/2 watt 5%.
Also check that the 2 zener diodes (D405/406) are OK. (They are
RD15ESB3, 15V zeners as I recall.) I suggest standing the resistors off
the board a bit for better cooling. Also check or change the 1 or 2
small electrolytic caps in the area that might have been baked to death.

Regards,
Tim Schwartz
Bristol Electronics


Glenn Barry wrote:

mattvarney wrote:
Hello,

I am currently working on a couple of NAD 7240PE receivers. On one of
them, the soft-clip feature is not functioning properly (enabling it
causes the right channel to clip at a low level).

The problem seems to be four cracked resistors at the back of the unit,
near the soft-clip switch. They are labeled R413, R423, R414, and R424.
I need the values for these four parts. On the unit where this feature
works OK, all four of the resistors are 1/2 W 10 kOhm with 1%
precision. The bad resistors are 1/4W 8.2 kOhm with 5% precision.
Unfortunately, it appears that all of these are replacements; I don't
have the original parts. I could use 1/2W 10k's in the bad unit, since
they seem to work in the other one, but I'd rather be certain of having
the optimal values [especially since I am planning to sell the amp
after fixing it]. I know that some of you have the service manual. If
you could provide the original values, I would appreciate it _very
much_.

Thanks
Matthew Varney

The magic Numbers are 8.2K + - 5% 1/2W for all 4

 

[Konna D.]

In article <FaOJe.8078$p%3.35229@typhoon.sonic.net>, SMS
<scharf.steven@geemail.com> wrote:

Q: Where do I find instructions to permanently change the region code
for the Panasonic DVD-LS93 portable DVD player (similar to LS90) from
Region 1 NTSC to Region 2 PAL?
However look at: "http://www.dvdcodes.net/panasonic/panasonic70-99.htm"
They can unlock the LS90 with a remote that they sell. You might ask
them if it works with the LS93, most likely it does because I suspect
that the LS93 is simply an LS90 which was specially packaged for Costco
and other warehouse stores. But it costs $48.

I bought the same Panasonic DVD LS93 player from CostCo so I too am
curious about the difference between the two players (they clearly use the
same owners manual as shown at the URL below).
http://service.us.panasonic.com/OPERMANPDF/DVDLS90.pdf

After calling the local Panasonic hotline 800.405.0652 (surprisingly, after
first lying to me (saying it was the color) Panasonic admitted they didn't
know the difference themselves and suggested I look in the "operating
instructions"). After doing so, I realized the only difference is the weght
and size due to battery capacity differences. I told that to the Panasonic
technician who then said "that must be the difference". Pretty lame support if
you ask me (they don't even know their own product numbers) but be that as it
may, here is the summary.

WEIGHT:
Panasonic DVD LS90 = 1097 grams or 38.69 oz (including the battery)
Panasonic DVD LS93 = 1280 grams or 45.15 oz (including the battery)

SIZE:
Panasonic DVD LS90 = 185 mm or 7-9/32 in in depth (including the battery)
Panasonic DVD LS93 = 201.4 mm or 7-15/16 in in depth (including the battery)

CAPACITY:
Panasonic DVD LS90 = 7.2 volt 4700 mAh (model number CGR-H702)
Panasonic DVD LS93 = 7.2 volt 8600 mAh (model number CGR-H703)

All other specifications appear to be the same between the two models.

Therefore, I suspect the 183g (6-1/2oz) weight and 16.4mm (21/32 inch) size
difference with the Panasonic LS90 are solely due to the larger capacity
(by 3900 mAh) clip-on battery supplied in the LS93.

The wierd thing is we can figure this out, but Panasonic can't!

You might be able to download a firmware upgrade to PAL at:
http://tinyurl.com/aakcu

I too wonder if upgrading to handle all regions will enable this DVD player to
play PAL as happened in the URL provided below with a similar
Panasonic portable DVD player:
"http://www.videohelp.com/dvdha cks"

In addition, if these guys ( "http://www.dvdcodes.net/panaso
nic/panasonic70-99.htm" ) can eliminate the region coding in a single button
press, then we mere mortals should be able to do it with the supplied remote
(if there only was an expert on this newsgroup that knew how).

 

[SMS]

Konna D. wrote:

I too wonder if upgrading to handle all regions will enable this DVD player to
play PAL as happened in the URL provided below with a similar
Panasonic portable DVD player:
"http://www.videohelp.com/dvdha cks"

Unclear. The company that sells the region unlock remote might know.
"If your Panasonic DVD is not a region 2 PAL player we now have the
ability to unlock it AND enable PAL playback on most models. Click here
for more info stating the model of the DVD player and the current region ."

In addition, if these guys ( "http://www.dvdcodes.net/panaso
nic/panasonic70-99.htm" ) can eliminate the region coding in a single button
press, then we mere mortals should be able to do it with the supplied remote
(if there only was an expert on this newsgroup that knew how).

Not necessarily. There are probably codes required that cannot be
generated from the supplied remote, rather than some specific sequence
of buttons to press. www.dvdcodes.net uses a cheap remote with some
flash memory, and they program the codes into the flash. A good business
model!

If there was a free hack involving only remote button presses, then I
think it would be available somewhere.

 

[Jeff Guy]

SMS <scharf.steven@geemail.com> wrote in
news:qCQJe.8106$p%3.35428@typhoon.sonic.net:

I too wonder if upgrading to handle all regions will enable this DVD
player to play PAL as happened in the URL provided below with a
similar Panasonic portable DVD player:
"http://www.videohelp.com/dvdha cks"

"If your Panasonic DVD is not a region 2 PAL player we now have the
ability to unlock it AND enable PAL playback on most models.

This is all very confusing to understand - maybe 'cus I'm in the United
States of America where we have plenty of region 1 DVDs and region 1
players so we don't need no stinkin' region code changes ...

What is confusing to me is what good would a 50-dollar region 1 to region 2
remote code changer be for this Panasonic ls93 portable dvd player if the
remote change didn't also allow PAL playback?

Wouldn't it be senseless to change the region but not the playback format?

 

[simona2001]

Hi Norman and Richard

I'm particularly interested in whether either of you have found a
solution in terms of alignment with the CD trays of the M50 unit.

I'm in the same boat in that the mechanism is out of sync after 2 CDs
were accidently placed in the same tray.

When reassembling the trays I'm guessing right that in the front of the
mech tray 1 is placed above tray 2 and tray 3 resides in the lowered
reading position?

Does the service manual show or describe how the cogs and trays are
positioned for assembly, if you still have a copy of the manual I would
be very grateful if you could email me a copy.

Many thanks!

Simon


--
simona2001

 

[keldermuis]

Hi Guys,

I got my dvd player working again by replacing the burned R8 and the
zener diode with a 7912 voltage regulator....

The board was actually designed for this... The diode and resistor was
a cheap solution for making -12... but a 7912 can do this much
better...


--
keldermuis

 

[Arfa Daily]

I have a set of alignment diagrams for this deck. It's dead easy once you
know how. It's actually a Sanyo manufactured mech. Before reassembling, ie
putting any trays into the drawer, rotate the whole side gear assembly (
both sides will turn because of the coupling rod across the drawer ) several
turns in both directions, and make sure that this action is completely
smooth. It is quite common for one of the planet gears inside one of the
large gears, to break. This then results in the gears sticking part the way
round.

If you look down on the two ' windows ' on either side of the drawer
topside, you will see the tops of the four gears. If you then rotate the
gears, you will see a line come around. These lines MUST be EXACTLY aligned
side to side ( done by disconnecting the coupling rod, repositioning one
side as required, then reconnecting the rod ), and also front to back on
each side, so all four lines MUST be exactly on top at the same time. This
is the starting point. The drawer is then turned upside down, and tray 2 is
dropped in at the back with the first tooth located over the lower ' catcher
pip ' on the large gear. This position is important. It's also important to
check those teeth on the tray VERY carefully for damage.

Now turn the little bevel gear ( assuming that you haven't lost it !! ) to
the right, gently. The tray will start to be drawn in. Keep your left hand
under it as you wind it in. When it gets to the front, and the lifting
action starts, help it with your left hand fingers pressing up from below.
When it has gone all the way up, stop. Now position tray 1 the same as you
did for tray 2, and wind it in the same way. When it reaches the end, tray 2
should start to retreat, if you keep winding. Rocking back and forth around
this point will give you a good ' feel ' for whether you've got it right.

Now push the white pin on the left underside, towards the front to lift the
disc clamp. Put tray 3 in the back, and let the clamp back down again.

Now slide the gear down the rod on the right side, until it's about half way
down. Now, with the bevel gear in place on the drawer, offer the right side
of the drawer into its groove in the chassis, such that the bevel gear
meshes with the shaft gear, and the claw on the drawer locates over the
shaft. Hinge the drawer down until the left side is resting on top of its
groove. Now, using something very flat like a scalpel blade, push in the
flat white plastic lever which is in the way of the left side going down. If
you're pressing down gently on the left side as you do this, you'll feel
when it gets out of the way. Now withdraw the scalpel, and press down
firmly. The drawer will snap into place with an alarming " crack " ( but
don't be alarmed ... ) And that's it really. It should just work first time.
This mech is also fitted in a Philips model and a Grundig and of course a
Sanyo. I've also seen it, with a different deck fitted, in a DVD player, but
I can't remember what make.

If you need the actual diagrams, mail me direct, and I'll pdf them for you.

Hope this helps

Geoff

"simona2001" <simona2001.1ttazb@news.homeimprovementbanter.com> wrote in
message news:simona2001.1ttazb@news.homeimprovementbanter.com...

Hi Norman and Richard

I'm particularly interested in whether either of you have found a
solution in terms of alignment with the CD trays of the M50 unit.

I'm in the same boat in that the mechanism is out of sync after 2 CDs
were accidently placed in the same tray.

When reassembling the trays I'm guessing right that in the front of the
mech tray 1 is placed above tray 2 and tray 3 resides in the lowered
reading position?

Does the service manual show or describe how the cogs and trays are
positioned for assembly, if you still have a copy of the manual I would
be very grateful if you could email me a copy.

Many thanks!

Simon


--
simona2001