Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[James Sweet]

"Pooh Bear" <rabbitsfriendsandrelations@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:42E576AD.D57BAB37@hotmail.com...

Tam/WB2TT wrote:

"Lee K. Gleason" <lgleason@houston.rr.com> wrote in message
news:9VVDe.11159$gL1.10218@tornado.texas.rr.com...
I'm building a simple 6802 single board system. I want to drive the
CPU
with an external oscillator, rather than using a crystal (got lots of
4
pin
oscillators, not so many crystals). When using a crystal, the
frequency of
the crystal gets divided down by 4 by an internal part of the
processor
(so
you use a 4 MHz crystal for a 1MHz clock).

When using an external oscillator, like I want to do, does the same
divide
by 4 occur? That is, should I use a 4 MHz external oscillator, or a 1
MHz
oscillator for a 1 MHz system clock?

Lee K. Gleason N5ZMR
Control-G Consultants
lgleason@houston.rr.com


You might want to check out one of the 6805 variants. They may still be
in
production. BTW, if you want to do it on the cheap, use a ~3.58MHz color
burst crystal.

Using a 3.58MHz crystal used to be the smart way to get a cheap one, but I
don't
think TVs use them anymore.

I find resonators to be the optimum cost effective choice.

Graham

If frequency is not important, Ebay is a great source of cheap crystals. I
got a bag of a couple hundred 8.something or other MHz crystals from there
for a song a couple years ago, I've been using them for all my uC projects
since then.

 

[Gunner]

On Mon, 25 Jul 2005 21:27:49 GMT, Rich Grise <richgrise@example.net>
wrote:

On Mon, 25 Jul 2005 12:03:38 +0000, Gunner wrote:

Then I get to start cutting all of the pallets up and disposing of
them too.

For Heaven's sakes, don't cut up and toss pallets! Those things
are worth real money! Around here, we have to lock them up in the
shop at night or they disappear.

Good Luck!
Rich

These are pretty hammered, and most are pine rather than the preferred
oak/hardwood. I think in this neck of the woods, good hardwood pallets
are going for $3 each with few takers.

Thanks

Gunner

"Pax Americana is a philosophy. Hardly an empire.
Making sure other people play nice and dont kill each other (and us)
off in job lots is hardly empire building, particularly when you give
them self determination under "play nice" rules.

Think of it as having your older brother knock the shit out of you
for torturing the cat." Gunner

 

[Ben Bradley]

On Mon, 25 Jul 2005 21:27:49 GMT, Rich Grise <richgrise@example.net>
wrote:

On Mon, 25 Jul 2005 12:03:38 +0000, Gunner wrote:

Then I get to start cutting all of the pallets up and disposing of
them too.

For Heaven's sakes, don't cut up and toss pallets! Those things
are worth real money!

Well, there's this, made from the wood laying out back of an
industrial warehouse, and it's surely worth a lot more than the pallet
it was made from:

http://www.taylorguitars.com/guitars/models/pallet.html

Around here, we have to lock them up in the
shop at night or they disappear.

Do you have many luthiers in your area?

Good Luck!
Rich

-----
http://www.mindspring.com/~benbradley

 

[jw]

We have a stack of them about 20 ft high out back at work. Free to
anyone who wants them. They haven't been moving very fast. Most of
them are the large industrial pallets, not the the little 4ft ones.
They make good firewood, but then you have to deal with all of the
hardware that is left over.

JW

 

[The Hermit]

On 24 Jun 2005 13:01:09 -0700, "Too_Many_Tools"
too_many_tools@yahoo.com> wrote:


I am crossposting this question since I think it will be of general
interest...sorry if that offends someone.

Now to the questions....what kinds of electronic and mechanical "trash"
is WORTH disassembling and keeping for parts to build other projects?

What did you keep that you should have thrown long ago?

What did you throw that you still kick yourself for tossing?

I look forward to your suggestions, experiences and jokes. ;&lt

TMT

Don't bother keeping steppers. I had boxes of them, until I need one. And
couldn't get a single one to work with my driver chip. And quite frankly,
servos are a hell of a lot easier to use. So, I tossed them all.

And when you salvage sensors, keep the bracket you found them in - it makes
attaching them to your projects easier.

 

[loppan]

ian_tech Wrote:

Hi !! i have that mini hifi su-ch900 to repair but i got problem to
find
out the problem .
The problem is when you turn up the music until the fan start , the
unit
just shut down .
I try to bypass the SVi output ic , still doing the same thing , i
test
almost all the part into PSU , no faulty parts .
I am also looking for the schematic !!
Please somebody help me !!
thanks
Ian

Ian!!!

We have exactly the same problem, please mail us with alll possible
ideas of HOW to fix this problem. If anyone else knows.....I would
ever be so in debt!!!


Sincerely

Loppan


--
loppan

 

[Rono]

Thanks to all who posted! Will basic silicone really work ok?
As like most of you guys, I haven't needed any H.V. silicone
for years, & I can't find any anywhere locally, even my local
suppiers don't know! Rono.

 

[dkuhajda@locl.net]

No, regular silicone will not work.
The acetic acid in the silicone will eat away the aluminum metal that
makes of the hv anode contact, not to mention the standard silicone
does not insulate to 35kV.

It is highly unlikely that any local suppliers will carry it. It is
pretty much limited to use on PTV picture tubes that need the hv anode
replaced. i.e. Philips, Toshiba, etc.

Pretty much any real servicer that has done warranty repair for several
years on the major RPTV brands will have some of the HV rated RTV on
hand.

 

[James Sweet]

"Rono" <rono@nl.rogers.com> wrote in message
news:tKWdndqKqOvIenvfRVn-jg@rogers.com...

Thanks to all who posted! Will basic silicone really work ok?
As like most of you guys, I haven't needed any H.V. silicone
for years, & I can't find any anywhere locally, even my local
suppiers don't know! Rono.

I've used basic clear silicone to pot HV multiplier assemblies up to around
20KV so it should work just fine for what you're doing.

 

[James Sweet]

<dkuhajda@locl.net> wrote in message
news:1122429370.748618.244670@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

No, regular silicone will not work.
The acetic acid in the silicone will eat away the aluminum metal that
makes of the hv anode contact, not to mention the standard silicone
does not insulate to 35kV.

You can get acid free silicone, it's sold as sensor safe as it won't damage
O2 sensors in cars though in practice I've never had a problem with
corrosion even with normal stuff. It most certainly will insulate to 35KV,
as will any other insulating material so long as it's thick enough, and in
practice it doesn't have to be particularly thick.

 

[Ignoramus5833]

On Tue, 26 Jul 2005 21:04:52 -0700, Paul Hovnanian P.E. <Paul@Hovnanian.com> wrote:

I already built one, but some day, I've got to stick a top of the line
multi-processor motherboard into another one and take it to a Linux
bootfest.

actually, do you not need a top of the line motherboard/cpu to run
linux, it is very forgiving of crappy hardware.

i

 

[Paul Hovnanian P.E.]

Vacuum tubes. Particularly replacements for my Tek 545 o'scope.

Also, a few original IBM PC cases, power supplies and disk drive faces.

I already built one, but some day, I've got to stick a top of the line
multi-processor motherboard into another one and take it to a Linux
bootfest.

--
Paul Hovnanian mailtoaul@Hovnanian.com
------------------------------------------------------------------
I think you left the stove on.

 

[Ingo Cyliax]

In article <1119643269.292995.117670@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com>,
Too_Many_Tools <too_many_tools@yahoo.com> wrote:

I am crossposting this question since I think it will be of general
interest...sorry if that offends someone.

Now to the questions....what kinds of electronic and mechanical "trash"
is WORTH disassembling and keeping for parts to build other projects?

What did you keep that you should have thrown long ago?

What did you throw that you still kick yourself for tossing?

I look forward to your suggestions, experiences and jokes. ;&lt

I keep a box of broken laptops for spare parts. Especially, keyboards,
screens, mouse buttons, etc... which are almost like consumables.

I also have a box of harddisks from my old machines... You never know
when you need a disk with an old version of DOS to repair some old
machine to run some ancient version of software. Some of the install
floppy disks for older versions have long stopped working. Keeping the
harddisks is easier than keeping a museum of all old machines. I used
to make it a point to keep old tape drives, in case I need to read an
oddball tape; however, I had to downsize.

Other than that, I harvest rs232 driver chips (1488,1489, max232),
and small power supplies as well as PC power supplies, fans, etc...
I also keep oddballs cables and connectors, and screws/nuts, you
never know and they are always a pain to track down when you need
them. I have used old AC cords on more than one occasion to replace
a frayed one.

An assortment of glues, like epoxies, CA, rubber cement, RTV, Loctite,
just in case I don't have the right screw/nut to fix something.

Later, -ingo
--
/* Ingo Cyliax, cyliax@ezcomm.com, Tel: 812-391-0895 */

 

[Mark Haase]

In article <pan.2005.07.27.01.31.35.709840@example.net>,
Rich Grise <richgrise@example.net> wrote:

I don't know. What's a 'luthier'? <google> Oh, a lute maker.

Also a guitar builder and/or repairman.

--
|\/| /| |2 |<
mehaase(at)sas(dot)upenn(dot)edu

 

[Sam Goldwasser]

"James Sweet" <jamessweet@hotmail.com> writes:

"Rono" <rono@nl.rogers.com> wrote in message
news:tKWdndqKqOvIenvfRVn-jg@rogers.com...
Thanks to all who posted! Will basic silicone really work ok?
As like most of you guys, I haven't needed any H.V. silicone
for years, & I can't find any anywhere locally, even my local
suppiers don't know! Rono.

I've used basic clear silicone to pot HV multiplier assemblies up to around
20KV so it should work just fine for what you're doing.

Yep, same here.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ Mirror: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Note: These links are hopefully temporary until we can sort out the excessive
traffic on Repairfaq.org.

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name is included in the subject line. Or, you can
contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.

 

[kip]

Home Depot has the clear GE silicone I have used it many many times with NO
problems.
"Rono" <rono@nl.rogers.com> wrote in message
news:tKWdndqKqOvIenvfRVn-jg@rogers.com...

Thanks to all who posted! Will basic silicone really work ok?
As like most of you guys, I haven't needed any H.V. silicone
for years, & I can't find any anywhere locally, even my local
suppiers don't know! Rono.

 

[Arfa Daily]

This problem is often caused by the fan motor itself - particularly if it's
the Mitsumi ' spindle motor ' type. The commutator gets noisy so when the
fan starts up, you get spikes which cause the sytem control micro to shut
the unit down. One stated cure was to add a 0.1uF capacitor directly across
the fan motor, but failing this working, a replacement fan is often needed.

Hope this helps

Geoff


"loppan" <loppan.1sssxm@news.diybanter.com> wrote in message
news:loppan.1sssxm@news.diybanter.com...

ian_tech Wrote:
Hi !! i have that mini hifi su-ch900 to repair but i got problem to
find
out the problem .
The problem is when you turn up the music until the fan start , the
unit
just shut down .
I try to bypass the SVi output ic , still doing the same thing , i
test
almost all the part into PSU , no faulty parts .
I am also looking for the schematic !!
Please somebody help me !!
thanks
Ian


Ian!!!

We have exactly the same problem, please mail us with alll possible
ideas of HOW to fix this problem. If anyone else knows.....I would
ever be so in debt!!!


Sincerely

Loppan


--
loppan

 

[Mark D. Zacharias]

"A1Web" <plcdrives@lucky-dice-dot-com.no-spam.invalid> wrote in message
news:11eai6v4tjjj42c@corp.supernews.com...

I also have this unit, Pioneer PD-T505, and have had it since new in
approx 1988, although it has not been used extensively ... maybe alot
for 2-3 years, but then under 100 hours a year.

It has just started to skip ... what happens is that I put a CD into
either tray, and it will "spin" the CD for a bit, which is rather
noisy, but it will not play.

I opened the unit, and through trial and error found out that if I
apply some pressure to the top arm that drops down the top center
magnet, the unit plays perfect, and even the noisy spinning stops ...


I noticed a metal crossmember across above this plastic arm, and was
wondering if there was some kind of spring mechanism that might be
missing? I turned the unit upside down and gently shook it, and
found no evidence of any loose parts or springs ...

This unit is old, but it worked PERFECT up until this point, as well
as being the FIRST CD player I saved and bought myself while in
highschool, so if I can extend it's life, it would be awesome!

Hoping for good news ..

Paul
www.a1websolutions.com

Pioneers have these rubber insulators which sometimes collapse somewhat,
allowing the disc to "barely" scrape while trying to play.

Mark Z.

 

[geno419@yahoo.com]

No

 

[datasheet]

DataSheet Search Site.

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datasheet