Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[Jerry G.]

The elements you want are no longer being manufactured for many of these
older types As they get harder to find, the dealers will keep raising
their prices. If you are hard core on keeping this stove, you are best
off to buy a lot of spare parts, or find a scrapper if possible, where
the elements are still good (very rare).

My father in-law had an older stove. He had to give up on it.


--

Jerry G.
======

"Sam Goldwasser" <sam@saul.cis.upenn.edu> wrote in message
news:6wsm89foyy.fsf@saul.cis.upenn.edu...
I'm still using one of those semi-antique GE range/oven combinations.
It's probably 50 years old but aside from the timer that stripped a gear
many years ago, still works fine.

The problem is that the oven and range elements are becoming harder to
find,
at least inexpensively. It used to be that MCM Electronics had them
but no more. Google turns up a couple of suppliers who want 2 or 3
times the
previous prices. Maybe it's just because they are much less in demand
but wanted to check here first to see if anyone has a favorite supplier.
Psrt numbers are: WB44X195 (small oven element) and WB30X354 and 356
(range elements).

Thanks.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ Mirror:
http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/
Repair | Main Table of Contents:
http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ:
http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites:
http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Note: These links are hopefully temporary until we can sort out the
excessive
traffic on Repairfaq.org.

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header is
ignored.
To contact me, please use the feedback form on the S.E.R FAQ Web sites.

 

[Bob Horvath]

On 20 Oct 2004 10:23:17 -0400, Bob Horvath wrote:

I have used repairclinic.com in the past for small parts, but your
needed parts show as around $47.00.
Bob
>WB30X354

 

[WB2JKX]

mediancat <bertiaux@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:546afb93.0410200627.43fd74f8@posting.google.com...

Although you've provided a good bit of detail, some questions still
arise:
just 'how' do you "touch the coax to the connection?" Are you touching
just
the inner conductor to the outside of the connector, or the inner
conductor
to the inner connection on the connector (not allowing the ground to
make
contact)? Are you touching the coax connector on the TV at
all...perhaps
instead the 300 ohm (if any) connectors?

i believe i am touching both pieces, ever so slightly. i tried one of
the other cables in the scheme that has a longer inner conductor - to
allow the connection of that alone, but it didn't improve the picture.
perhaps i really am only touching the gound part of the coax to the
ground part of the tv connector. that would explain why when i fully
engage the connector, the signal gets crappy. i will try some other
combinations to see if i can clarify what i am doing.

It sounds like you no longer have a good circuit up to your antenna, and by
just touching one conductor to the TV antenna connector your downlead is
acting like a "longwire antenna", which gives some signal. When it is fully
connected, the shield is grounded and now little if any signal reaches the
TV.

 

[BWL]

sounds like the channel 13 antenna has a shorted lead (center to shield), or
the splitter has gone bad. Water intrusion often causes this

 

[Kim Clay]

On 20 Oct 2004 10:23:17 -0400, Sam Goldwasser <sam@saul.cis.upenn.edu>
wrote:

The problem is that the oven and range elements are becoming harder to find,
at least inexpensively. It used to be that MCM Electronics had them
but no more. Google turns up a couple of suppliers who want 2 or 3 times the
previous prices. Maybe it's just because they are much less in demand
but wanted to check here first to see if anyone has a favorite supplier.
Psrt numbers are: WB44X195 (small oven element) and WB30X354 and 356
(range elements).

I just go to the local appliance parts place & pay their price (or use
the other burners - that's why they installed 4 huh?). Just happened to
see the first place below on a quick Google search if you wana stock
up...

http://www.mainappliance.com/specials/index.html

WB30X354 ... 8", 3 wire element with trim ring. (1955-1975) $ 19.49 each
WB30X356 ... 6", 3 wire element with trim ring. (1955-1975) $ 16.99 each

They want to sell to "servicers only" & have a $50 min order (See
footnote on page). I'm _sure_ you service these things


My standard price comparison place:
Sears parts: "http://www3.sears.com/"
UNIT 8" L WB30X354 $ 42.99
UNIT 6" L WB30X356 $ 37.99
BAKE UNIT WB44X195 $ 41.49

Baking out those lasers done burnt up the element huh?

Kim Clay

 

[Gerard Bok]

On 20 Oct 2004 11:31:54 -0700, ccon67@netscape.net (Marlboro)
wrote:

ahhh, years ago I had similar problem with my 386, I bough a new
maxtor HD which includes a flopy ultilities, dont recall its name ,

Probably Maxblast

you will need to install the new HD and the old HD (1 as master 1 as
slave) on the machine and bootup with the flopy. The program will
allow you to install/partition/...ect. and do a what it calls "disk
image copy" or something similar... it copys everything from the
source disk to the new HD...Thats all i can remember,

--
Kind regards,
Gerard Bok

 

[JVC dude]

Does the disc spin? The most common problem on similar Pioneers is the
spindle motor that spins the disc going faulty. ~It can also take out the
CP/FR protector in its psu rail
AW
"Jason" <jbeter@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:c688fc5.0410181534.63b7d5ae@posting.google.com...

I have a Pioneer DV-434. When I put a disc in, it says loading, then
flashes stop really quick, then the display goes blank. Never loads
the disc. It is probably toast, but trying to pick up any suggestions,
as it was a great unit.

 

[Franc Zabkar]

On 20 Oct 2004 11:31:54 -0700, ccon67@netscape.net (Marlboro) put
finger to keyboard and composed:

captainvideo462002@yahoo.com (Lenny) wrote in message news:<d980bc2c.0410180823.2da9a1d3@posting.google.com>...
This post is partly a message which I posted the other day, however
now the problem has gotten more serious.
I'm running a 386/25 with Dos 6.2 for billing. The unit has two
Seagate MFM 40Meg drives that are doublespaced.

ahhh, years ago I had similar problem with my 386, I bough a new
maxtor HD which includes a flopy ultilities, dont recall its name ,

Before MaxBlast there was EZ-Drive, or something like that.

you will need to install the new HD and the old HD (1 as master 1 as
slave)

The old HD has an MFM interface (two cables, one for control, the
other for data). The new HD is ATA/IDE. This makes them incompatible.


- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 's' from my address when replying by email.

 

[John]

On Wed, 20 Oct 2004 12:52:32 -0500, "jakdedert"
<jdedert@bellsouth.net> wrote:

Darren Harris wrote:
I need what will basically be a digital stopwatch. It will need to be
an accurate LCD timer/clock that can record a huge number of splits to
1/60th of a second, and since nothing like what I need is on the
market I'll obviously have to build one for myself, if this is
possible.

This may be a simple project, or a really complex one. But I was
hoping to get ideas on where/how to start.

Outisde of it's foot-print not being more than about 2 or 3 inches
wide, the following is what I'm after...

1) Two digital displays:
A) One for the main timer, which can be reset to zero at the press of
a button.
B) One that will show the latest split time, at the press of a button.

2) The ability to record/recall *at least* 256 splits.

Any advice on what parts and where to get them would be greatly
appreciated.

Thanks a lot.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

I think I'd look into whatever stopwatch programs are available for handheld
PDA's. There are some good deals out there for monochrome Palm OS devices.
(In fact, I'd unload one of mine to the right buyer.) It seems that I've
seen programs which might do what you desire. Certainly there are stopwatch
programs out there. Do a Google search....

Much easier to program a computer (PDA) to do the above, than to build a
dedicated hardware solution....

jak

I'll second the PDA platform. Monochrome Palm devices have recently
been available for $30US at Fry's, Sears, Ebay, computergeeks.com,
surpluscomputers.net, and others.

Most of these devices have a hardware clock with 100 clock
ticks/second, so you can can get fractional seconds - however, 1/60
second doesn't divide well with 1/100 second pulses ;-)

 

[Sam Goldwasser]

John <look@sig.net> writes:

On Wed, 20 Oct 2004 12:52:32 -0500, "jakdedert"
jdedert@bellsouth.net> wrote:

Darren Harris wrote:
I need what will basically be a digital stopwatch. It will need to be
an accurate LCD timer/clock that can record a huge number of splits to
1/60th of a second, and since nothing like what I need is on the
market I'll obviously have to build one for myself, if this is
possible.

This may be a simple project, or a really complex one. But I was
hoping to get ideas on where/how to start.

Outisde of it's foot-print not being more than about 2 or 3 inches
wide, the following is what I'm after...

1) Two digital displays:
A) One for the main timer, which can be reset to zero at the press of
a button.
B) One that will show the latest split time, at the press of a button.

2) The ability to record/recall *at least* 256 splits.

Any advice on what parts and where to get them would be greatly
appreciated.

Thanks a lot.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

I think I'd look into whatever stopwatch programs are available for handheld
PDA's. There are some good deals out there for monochrome Palm OS devices.
(In fact, I'd unload one of mine to the right buyer.) It seems that I've
seen programs which might do what you desire. Certainly there are stopwatch
programs out there. Do a Google search....

Much easier to program a computer (PDA) to do the above, than to build a
dedicated hardware solution....

jak


I'll second the PDA platform. Monochrome Palm devices have recently
been available for $30US at Fry's, Sears, Ebay, computergeeks.com,
surpluscomputers.net, and others.

Most of these devices have a hardware clock with 100 clock
ticks/second, so you can can get fractional seconds - however, 1/60
second doesn't divide well with 1/100 second pulses ;-)

I bet the 1/60th probably came from the power line and they'd actually prefer
1/100th accuracy!

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ Mirror: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Note: These links are hopefully temporary until we can sort out the excessive
traffic on Repairfaq.org.

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header is ignored.
To contact me, please use the feedback form on the S.E.R FAQ Web sites.

 

[szylak]

hi I have a problem with the mimi stereo shutting down when I increase the
volume slightly. Could this be the same type of problem? The stereo will
play fine at lower volume but at higher volumes it shuts off. It is not a
speaker wire problem.

 

[James T. White]

"Joe" <joe.amp@NOSPAMverizon.net> wrote in message
news:lHzdd.8063$oU3.1661@trndny04...

I have had a nightmare trying to buy the Weller I want WESD51
Cooper group baught them out and is now demamding a my local electronic
supply a minimum order of $350. they are about $150 tops on the web but then
you get "banged" with padded shipping and handeling.
Im going for the Xytronic XY960D or Xytronic 137 with a couple different
tips (ESD Super Temperature Controlled) I think its a better station at
around $100
The iron itself is also sleeker and less bulky then the Cooper/Weller
Cooper group's practices are unfair, quiliety has gone to the dogs, the
hell with them !

You might also take a look at solder stations made by Hakko. IMHO, the recovery
on the Hakko stations is far superior to most of the Weller stations that I've
used. The one exception is the 921ZX (really an Ungar) that Weller discontinued
some time ago.
Use Google and you should be able to find several distributors that sell the
Hakko 936 (analog control knob w/o digital readout) for $100 or less. If that's
still too pricey, check eBay for a used one.

Good luck.

James T. White

 

[Eli Kane]

Joe Farr wrote:

Hi all,

I'm renovating an old ACORN System 1 computer (circa 1979) and need a
datasheet for an old and obsolete part - INS 8154. It's a 40 pin IC,
with I/O ports and a small amount of RAM.

I've tried the web search engines and been in contact with National
(the original manafacturer) but not had any luck.

Can anybody please help.

Thanks,
Joe

I am not sure if this part is the same thing, but Intersil makes an HMP8154
NTSC/PAL Encoder. It might be the same thing. Check out: www.intersil.com
data/fn/fn4343.pdf

Eli

 

[NSM]

"Darren Harris" <Searcher7@mail.con2.com> wrote in message
news:9437a27c.0410200918.2c78d744@posting.google.com...
| I need what will basically be a digital stopwatch. It will need to be
| an accurate LCD timer/clock that can record a huge number of splits to
| 1/60th of a second, and since nothing like what I need is on the
| market I'll obviously have to build one for myself, if this is
| possible.

Not sure how many 'huge' is, but an old Model 100 Radio Shack computer will
do it. There's a M/L program you can download to give you several splits.

N

 

[NSM]

"mediancat" <bertiaux@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:546afb93.0410200609.40f5f986@posting.google.com...

| in seattle, this antenna scheme is sold specifically to pull in a
| station that is west of the city, when all the other local stations
| are in town. so my main antenna points north toward downtown seattle,
| and this smaller one, that i mounted as instructed (on the same pole)
| points west. there is this small plastic box that is part of this
| kit. it too is mounted to the pole. i guess it's a splitter.

Try a dollar store splitter. It'll work in reverse as a combiner near enough
to test - and it's only a buck!

| i plug
| the little and big antennas into the box and a third cable runs down
| to the house. the station is not terribly far away - it used to come
| in fine, and they haven't degraded the signal. i live kind of on a
| hill so i don't think a building or hill is interfering with my signal
| path. when the coax connector is plugged into the tv, and all the
| other stations come in, channel 13 is snowy. you can barely make out
| what is going on.

 

[James Sweet]

"Sam" <ymailus@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:a5df5561.0410201011.1bf0a214@posting.google.com...

i was horrified when after reading here that the standby mode of most
tv/vcr/cable boxes is around 4-10w.
if an 80w tv is on 2 hrs a day and standby 22, then you have standby
consumption which approaches that of usage!

my question is, does standby mode prolong the life of the device? if i
add a timer to cut off power from the wall socket during the night
will it theoretically shorten the life of the tube/vcr or cable box?

i will pay much more attn to the standby wattage specifications next
time.

thanks,
Sam

It really is a growing problem as the numbers of these devices increase.
Quite possibly the worst offenders are the class II transformers that are
everywhere, the old style heavy block wall warts and VCR's using magnetic
transformers, these usually have high resistance primary windings so they
can never draw enough current to overheat. If you look at the wattage input
and output ratings they rarely exceed 50% efficiency and a typical house has
at least 5-10 of them.

 

[Alan Harriman]

When soldering, I tried holding it steady, but was not terribly
successful doing this with my two hands (no clamp). My soldering
technique would be ok, but I have a crappy iron which translates into
frustrating work (I have better tools, but I was just using what was
available at the time).

Try to clamp the device in a small vise or a "helping hands" type of holder. The
idea of soldering is to heat both the wire and the lug enough to allow the
solder to flow freely; the part melts the solder, not the iron. Also, some of
the lower cost RCA jacks and the like have a plated surface that resists
soldering. Sometimes it's necessary to file or scrape the surface to down to
good metal. Just takes a little practice. Good luck.

Alan Harriman

The 'chain link' effect makes for a weak solder join. Any suggestions
on what could improve the join prior to soldering?

Cheers,
Dave

 

[Art]

Power supply, deflection problems, probably a lot of electrolytic caps going
south. Best to have a service company that is familar with these sets to
address it.
"Hythum Kiswani" <hythum@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:76d66f0.0410201525.1db8e426@posting.google.com...

Hello,
My sister's, who's living abroad, has a vs-5043 that won't turn on.
after clicking the power button, it will turn on and turn off
instantly. Any idea?
much appreciated.

 

[Mark D. Zacharias]

Still could be wires - sorry but we can't see or check them.
Otherwise, maybe solder connections at or near the output IC(s) or a bad
output IC?

Mark Z.


"szylak" <szylak@notlrealestate.com> wrote in message
news:d7a1f21eed7199ec974b55b51f9ca9ae@localhost.talkaboutelectronicequipment.com...

hi I have a problem with the mimi stereo shutting down when I increase the
volume slightly. Could this be the same type of problem? The stereo will
play fine at lower volume but at higher volumes it shuts off. It is not a
speaker wire problem.

 

[Tam/WB2TT]

"WB2JKX" <mycall-N0SPAM@arrl.net> wrote in message
news:Gfwdd.14686$OD2.2007@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...

mediancat <bertiaux@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:546afb93.0410200627.43fd74f8@posting.google.com...

Although you've provided a good bit of detail, some questions still
arise:
just 'how' do you "touch the coax to the connection?" Are you touching
just
the inner conductor to the outside of the connector, or the inner
conductor
to the inner connection on the connector (not allowing the ground to
make
contact)? Are you touching the coax connector on the TV at
all...perhaps
instead the 300 ohm (if any) connectors?

i believe i am touching both pieces, ever so slightly. i tried one of
the other cables in the scheme that has a longer inner conductor - to
allow the connection of that alone, but it didn't improve the picture.
perhaps i really am only touching the gound part of the coax to the
ground part of the tv connector. that would explain why when i fully
engage the connector, the signal gets crappy. i will try some other
combinations to see if i can clarify what i am doing.


It sounds like you no longer have a good circuit up to your antenna, and
by
just touching one conductor to the TV antenna connector your downlead is
acting like a "longwire antenna", which gives some signal. When it is
fully
connected, the shield is grounded and now little if any signal reaches the
TV.

This sounds like the most plausible explanation, especially since it used to

work. I would look for a bad connection at the antenna, or an F connector.

Tam/WB2TT