Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[NSM]

"Tom MacIntyre" <tom__macintyre@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:11f8n09bghma0339uqlb9ijj3rrcf38103@4ax.com...

| Have you had luck with a magnetron magnet? I tried that, and an
| external degaussing coil, on a few floppies, and they were very
| resilient.
|
| Tom

Some magnets have a very 'closed' circuit. Old speaker magnets are usually
OK, or even dollar store magnets.

N

 

[David Maynard]

Watson A.Name - "Watt Sun, the Dark Remover" wrote:

"David Maynard" <dNOTmayn@ev1.net> wrote in message
news:10n7k5pkh35j0a3@corp.supernews.com...
[snip]

No problem.

I had only seen a 'review' by a less than satisfied customer and it

gave me

the impression the 'real' power wasn't on the sticker.

Ah. I went back and found the message. The site with the review was:



http://www.casetech.co.uk/product_info.php/manufacturers_id/50/products_
id/231

But I can't get it to connect right now (server times out).

The PSU the original poster (with startup problems) had was a Q-Tec

400W

Dual Fan Gold.

http://www.qtec.info/products/product.htm?artnr=13023&specs=1

The 'reviewer' claimed to have asked for, and received, specifications

from

Q-Tec and described it like:

Total "Real" power output [W] 300 (not 400)
Output current +5V [A] 25A (Sticker 30A)
Output current +12V [A] 12A (Sticker 16A)
Output current -5V [A] 0,5A (Sticker 1,0A)
Output current -12V [A] 0,5A (Sticker 1,0A)


The -5V and -12V regulators on most of the PS boards I've seen are 7905
and 7912 regulator chips, and they usually have no heatsink and are just
sticking up from the PCB supported by their three legs. So they have
littls dissipation capability. So the designers rate them for a half
amp, altho they are capable of handling a full amp with a decent
heatsink. So this is a 'design compromise' I guess you'd say. But on
occasion I have seen them with a small heatsink attached.

Design 'compromises' are always made. I simply expect the sticker to
reflect the design.

If you look inside of a PS for a server, and then look inside a consumer
grade PS, you will immediately get the picture of where they make
'design compromises' in the consumer PS. The server PS will have big
heavy extruded aluminum heatsinks, and the consumer PS will have a sheet
of tinned steel instead. And the server will not skimp on the cooling
fans like the consumer PSes do.


Output current +3.3V [A] 14A (Sticker 20A)
Output current +5V STB [A] 1,5A (Sticker 2,0A)
Maximal total power for 3.3 and 5 combined [Watt] 150 W (Sticker 180W)

That gave me the impression only the 'sticker' number was on the

sticker.

Or maybe that's the case for the 400 watt dual fan gold and the other

one

has both listed.

 

[Mark D. Zacharias]

Select a different audio stream in the menu's?

The disc could be defectively mastered. I've never seen this but it's bound
to happen. Try the disc on a friends' player.

Mark Z.


"numcrun" <mdheaven@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:a4725749.0410182330.41f37bc8@posting.google.com...

I have 2 year old Akai ADV-2280 dvd player. I have "La Dolce Vita",
the 2 disc edition. When I play it the commentary track plays instead
of the movie soundtrack. I got another copy, same problem. Then I
tried it on my new player, it plays fine. The Akai player plays all
other DVDs fine, although I have had to replace a couple of
electrolytic capactitors due to odd behaviour. All the electrocaps on
the power board test OK at the moment. I'm stumped, any ideas?

 

[John Del]

Subject: Re: RCA CTC133B
From: Tom MacIntyre tom__macintyre@hotmail.com

It may have to be programmed...manually. Select each channel, and look
for a Set (?) button (or similar) on the front of the TV. Push it for
each channel selected. Just a memory of mine; may not be correct.

Tom

Probably right. Older RCAs had a "select\lock" switch assy that often failed
if pushed too hard. If it's bad, it will flop with no tactile feedback. Later
versions used momentary contact buttons that were no trouble.

John Del
Wolcott, CT

"I'm just trying to get into heaven, I'm not running for Jesus!"
Homer Simpson

(remove S for email reply)

 

[Gerard Bok]

On Mon, 18 Oct 2004 15:34:32 -0400, Henry Markov
<jnhblhr@yahoo.com> wrote:

A few things occurred to me immediately after posting. You may not have enough
memory to run XP (although BartPE is a reduced XP) and XP may not run on a 386.
It's possible that you would have neither restriction with Knoppix (Linux).

But I'm affraid this would still render him unable to read the
compressed files

--
Kind regards,
Gerard Bok

 

[Chuck]

On 18 Oct 2004 13:02:08 -0700, pierre.genest@ualberta.ca (Pierre G)
wrote:

I have an RCA CTC133B with a strange problem. The tuner on the set
(front of unit) is not responding to go UP or DOWN (same with remote).
I have to "enter" the channel manually by selecting the numbers such
as entering 2 and 3 for channel 23. It is not possible to enter these
numbers on the remote. The set also turns itself off on its own. (The
volume control also doesn't always work from the remote.) This
behavior is intermittent. Is this caused by the "tuner module" or
somewhere else? Any help would be appreciated.

Cheers

Electrolytic capacitor failure in the MTT module can also cause this
problem if none of the more common suggestions resolve this issue.
Chuck

 

[WEBPA]

This outfit appears to sell the schematics you need:

http://www.electronix.com/catalog/default.php/cPath/12_49_201

BTW, do you have the speakers which attach to the sides of the monitor? I
just picked up a used monitor w/ the speakers, but no ac/dc adapter for
the speakers. The polarity needed is indicated on the underside of one of
the speakers, but not the voltage or mill-amperage rating. Can you
assist?

Robert

I have two sets of these...both with the original PB wall-wart. Both
wall-warts are marked "output 9 VDC at 1 Amp."

p a w e b e r 0 2 @ a o l . c o m

webpa

 

[Franklin]

On 17 Oct 2004, Chip wrote:

"David Maynard" <dNOTmayn@ev1.net> wrote in message
news:10n3k1osh82u7f3@corp.supernews.com...
[...]

"OK"? Well sort of. The idea that you have a "550W" PSU with a
maximum 12V supply of 14A I would say is "sharp practise" at
best, and fraud at worst.

The 35A on the +5V line might save them?

 

[john]

Ok Usually when the HOT in that Model goes
its caued by bad Flyback Transformer.
Best to change the Regulator / HOT / Disk Cap off HOT / Flyback.

kip

 

[RonKZ650]

Also the 2SD1497 Sony is no longer available. You need to use the T-9985-664-1
2SC4927 kit. If you try to order a 2SD1497 you'll get one with the metal back
and it will not work. Sometimes you get lucky and transistor fixes it,
sometimes it's the flyback transformer, sometimes the small electrolytic cap
between the driver transistor and driver transformer.
Or am I wrong here Leonard? Comments to follow I'm sure.
Ron

 

[Ken]

Lenny wrote:

I'm running a 386/25 with Dos 6.2 for billing. Recently it has been
having problems with bad sectors on the drive showing, and refusing to
boot unless you boot off a floppy and do a sys c: from the A drive.
Now it will not boot from the hard drive at all. Luckily I copied my
customer files before this happened. But there is alot of other stuff
I would like to get off it. To rule out a virus problem is there an up
to date scan program I can get that will run from a floppy on a Dos
machine? Thanks, Lenny Stein, Barlen Electronics.

I tend to agree with James, but since any anti virus program that could
be contained on one floppy would necessarily be very limited, I would
remove the HD and attach it to a system as a slave drive. After having
done so, I would run the A/V program on this system and direct it to
scan the slave drive. The new system would undoubtedly have more
complete virus definitions and if there was a virus is more likely to
detect and remove it.

That being said, your symptoms sound an awful lot like a HD about to fail.

 

[Kris Shaw]

Hello,

Take a look at FPROT.

http://www.f-prot.com/index.html

Kris.

On Sun, 17 Oct 2004 06:05:37 GMT, "James Sweet"
<jamessweet@hotmail.com> said to us:

"Lenny" <captainvideo462002@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:d980bc2c.0410162141.d0e4e73@posting.google.com...
I'm running a 386/25 with Dos 6.2 for billing. Recently it has been
having problems with bad sectors on the drive showing, and refusing to
boot unless you boot off a floppy and do a sys c: from the A drive.
Now it will not boot from the hard drive at all. Luckily I copied my
customer files before this happened. But there is alot of other stuff
I would like to get off it. To rule out a virus problem is there an up
to date scan program I can get that will run from a floppy on a Dos
machine? Thanks, Lenny Stein, Barlen Electronics.

How would a virus get on the machine in the first place? Obviously it's not
on the internet, and if it's just for billing it seems unlikely contaminated
disks would get in there.

 

[Chuck Harris]

Boot the hard drive up on a HD diagnostics disk, such as
SpinRite by Gibson Research Corporation (www.grc.com) and
test the drive for physical integrity. This is probably a
very old drive, on a definitely very old machine. Your drive
had a MTBF (Mean Time Between Failures) of less than 5 years of
continuous operation, and you have likely tripled that time.

-Chuck Harris

Lenny wrote:

I'm running a 386/25 with Dos 6.2 for billing. Recently it has been
having problems with bad sectors on the drive showing, and refusing to
boot unless you boot off a floppy and do a sys c: from the A drive.
Now it will not boot from the hard drive at all. Luckily I copied my
customer files before this happened. But there is alot of other stuff
I would like to get off it. To rule out a virus problem is there an up
to date scan program I can get that will run from a floppy on a Dos
machine? Thanks, Lenny Stein, Barlen Electronics.

 

[Bianca]

Marc <dbacks@attglobal.net> schreef in berichtnieuws 20e8027b.0410190656.3cb30262@posting.google.com...

OK, here is where I could really use the assistance of experienced
technical types.

I have an interest in electronics, but I am not proficient at
soldering.

I need advice on soldering tools: irons, solder, etc (I do have a
variac to regulate the iron)

Brand names, wattage, etc,

Part numbers...

solder, with or without rosin...

ANYTHING...

Thank you in advance for your help.

Marc

First read some stuff:

http://www.elexp.com/t_solder.htm

www.elecraft.com/TechNotes/N0SS_SolderNotes/N0SS_SolderNotesV6.pdf



Then make a choice:

http://www.cooperhandtools.com/brands/weller/

Not the cheapest, but (one of) the best.

 

[Richard Clark]

On 19 Oct 2004 09:23:23 -0700, bertiaux@yahoo.com (mediancat) wrote:

i have tried changing out the cable, using splitters,
not using splitter, directly from wall, from vcr, etc. it never seems
to come in unless i am holding the cable connection to the connector
on the tv in this very specific way. what's going on?

Hi OM,

When you are holding the cable in its odd way (and it works just
fine), then you have happened upon an unique combination that proves
you should be able to do it right. However, the question remains,
what are you doing wrong?

Is the new antenna pointed in the right direction? Try turning it
through all 360° to see how that improves/degrades the situation.
This presumes you have all the right connections of course.

As you are using two antennas, how are you connecting them to the same
TV or VCR? As you have tried this antenna individually and still
found no happy conclusion, it would seem to be an elemental problem.

How far away is this station you are trying to get?

What kind of neighborhood are you in (city/suburb/rural)?

Are there path issues like hills?

Is this a matter of a snowy picture, or one that is broken up with
multiple images, or...?

What kind of line are you using? Twin lead (flat ribbon) or Coax
(round, thick cable)?

73's
Richard Clark, KB7QHC

 

[Me]

Inside mounted on the metal plate covering the CRT is a red block. It has
a knob on it to adjust horizontal static convergence. Try that.

The blocks in those like to crack so before doing that take an insanely
bright light and look at the body of it.


On Sat, 16 Oct 2004 13:46:05 -0700, zcalvin wrote:

I have a SONY TV, model KV25XBR.

The TV hasn't been used in a while. When powered up, there are 3 distinct
images on the screen that are separated by about 1-2". The screen is very
distinctly green with true colour showing around one edge.

The antenna is good so I doubt it is ghosting. I suspect it is some sort
of adjustment. Does anybody have any idea on how to adjust this?

Thanks in advance.

 

[Chip]

"Franklin" <no_thanks@mail.com> wrote in message
news:9587A46939EE771F3M4@130.133.1.4...

On 17 Oct 2004, Chip wrote:


"David Maynard" <dNOTmayn@ev1.net> wrote in message
news:10n3k1osh82u7f3@corp.supernews.com...
[...]

"OK"? Well sort of. The idea that you have a "550W" PSU with a
maximum 12V supply of 14A I would say is "sharp practise" at
best, and fraud at worst.

The 35A on the +5V line might save them?

Save them from what? From being a laughing stock? Not in my book.

Chip

 

[Andy Cuffe]

On 19 Oct 2004 07:26:05 -0700, dbacks@attglobal.net (Marc) wrote:

Here is my question:

When the HOT is determined to be shorted, is this symptomatic of a
larger problem???

Possibly other parts down stream or up stream (so to speak) shorting?

Again, any and all help is appreciated,

Thanks,

Mark

You will definitely need to replace the HOT and voltage regulator (STR
something). It's also a good idea to change the electrolytic cap in
the horizontal drive circuit. I think this is near the vertical IC
heatsink. You may also need to replace the flyback. You should be
able to get all these parts from MCM electronics including a generic
flyback. I wouldn't spend the money on a genuine Sony flyback
considering the age of this set. The picture tube is probably getting
weak.
Andy Cuffe
baltimora@psu.edu

 

[BWL]

Sounds to me like the box is in crooked, or, if the mirror is one of the
fold-in types, it may not be properly tightened in place

 

[CJT]

NSM wrote:

"Lenny" <captainvideo462002@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:d980bc2c.0410180823.2da9a1d3@posting.google.com...
| This post is partly a message which I posted the other day, however
| now the problem has gotten more serious.
...
| be ready to transfer everything on it to another drive. Is it possible
| to do some kind of a transfer perhaps through the parallel port to a
| Windows 2000 machine....

Maybe LapLink?

N


I think that's probably got the best chance of working, because it

doesn't involve installing new hardware (other than a simple cable)
or other radical surgery that could waste what may be his one last
chance to boot.

--
The e-mail address in our reply-to line is reversed in an attempt to
minimize spam. Our true address is of the form che...@prodigy.net.