Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

Your horiz output is normal checking the way it does. My guess would be the
flyback. I don't how how good your Fluke meter is, but on mine I can set it for
AC volts and read off the collector of the horiz output. Should be aprox 300v
rms. If this voltage is there when the set is turned on, but no or low high
voltage, the flyback is most likely bad. Also try unplugging the CRT board and
the yoke, and see if HV returns. A shorted yoke or a CRT with no vacuum can
cause this problem also.
 
Wizard of Ozz wrote:
I'm using Windows 98 and I just bought a new monitor, a Samsung
SyncMaster 793s 17" screen. My old one was a Samsung Syncmaster 3 14"
screen.

When I went to change the monitor type on the Active Desktop list of
monitors, it obviously didn't have the newer 793s, so I tried to pick
a standardized monitor type from the list (at the top of the list it
says "standard monitor types").

I'm stuck between 2 options:
Super VGA 1024x768
Super VGA 1024x768 at 75 Hz

How can I tell which one I should pick? Also, does it matter if I
continue to use the monitor with the setting wrongly selected for the
older Syncmaster 3? What does this setting change, anyhow?

I should also note that the CD that came with the monitor only
provided drivers for Win2000 and up to Win XP, but not for Win 95/98.
Click to expand...
Did the monitor not come with some software drivers? If not, you might
visit the maker's website and see if some are not available. Normally
you will have many possible settings if you acquire the proper drivers.
 
VZ3 chassis, 1996. Not a lot of bad caps in these. Many coolant leaks.
Basic troubleshooting necessary on this one.

Leonard


"Hythum Kiswani" <hythum@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:76d66f0.0410201525.1db8e426@posting.google.com...
Hello,
My sister's, who's living abroad, has a vs-5043 that won't turn on.
after clicking the power button, it will turn on and turn off
instantly. Any idea?
much appreciated.
Click to expand...
 
Hi Lenny,
F04 is a loading problem. If your mechanism is gear timed (aligned)
correctly check the mode switch which is soldered on the main board and
located under the main cam gear in the rear right corner of the deck. I
have loose solder connections on several of these mode switches and
several with dirty mode switches. I too do them for a local school
district. -Mike
 
Watson A.Name - "Watt Sun, the Dark Remover" wrote:

"David Maynard" <dNOTmayn@ev1.net> wrote in message
news:10mvdnhjiksdf1@corp.supernews.com...

JW wrote:


On Fri, 15 Oct 2004 01:52:52 -0700 "Watson A.Name - \"Watt Sun, the

Dark

Remover\"" <NOSPAM@dslextreme.com> wrote in Message id:
10mv4q1pn2vcv29@corp.supernews.com>:



"CBFalconer" <cbfalconer@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:416F7B74.E4EAAB68@yahoo.com...


larrymoencurly wrote:


"Chip" <anneonymouse@virgin.net> wrote in message:



"Qtec" - for example - are a very popular low-end brand. You
might refer to them as a no-name, but arguably they are one step
up from that. They produce a very popular 550w PSU.

The first thing to note is that by 550w, they mean *Peak*. Which
basically means nothing at all.

I didn't believe it until I visited their website. This has got
to be the first time that a company has admitted that its most
prominently advertised power rating was for peak power. Is it a
sign of greater honesty, or of lower standards?

Are you sure that Q-tec is a step above no-names? This picture of

the


insides of their 550W model:

www.bit-tech.net/images/review/123/7.jpg


Makes i seem more like a decent 250W.


5 Va.c. _________\|____ 1 k ohm ___________________ 5 V out
/| | |
diode | |
1000 uF 5V zener
|________|
|
gnd

should provide 5v regulated with a 600 or more peak power output
rating. Depends only on the quality of the capacitor. Maybe I
should go into business.

600 or more _what_?


I'm assuming he meant watts,

"Peak" watts.


but...



Where do you get 5VAC?


More importantly, if he did mean watts, I'd like to see how it'll

get

through that 1k resistor ;)


Easy. It charges the capacitor back up, over time.


There is no time factor in watts.
Click to expand...
But there is in charging a capacitor through a fixed resistor.
 
"Qtec" - for example - are a very popular low-end
brand. You might refer to them as a no-name, but arguably they
are one step up from that. They produce a very popular 550w
PSU.

The first thing to note is that by 550w, they mean *Peak*.
Which basically means nothing at all.
Click to expand...


On 15 Oct 2004, larrymoencurly wrote:
I didn't believe it until I visited their website. This has got
to be the first time that a company has admitted that its most
prominently advertised power rating was for peak power.
Click to expand...
Does anyone have any 'real' specs for this PSU? You know what I
mean, the normal sort of data in a chart.

I can't find any at their website. I am overlooking a small but
significant link?

http://www.qtec.info/products/group.htm?pc=POWER-SUPPLY-UNITS




Is it a
sign of greater honesty, or of lower standards?

Are you sure that Q-tec is a step above no-names? This picture
of the insides of their 550W model:
www.bit-tech.net/images/review/123/7.jpg Makes i seem more like
a decent 250W.
Click to expand...
 
We have found the following electrolytic caps causing this problem in
several VS-5043's: C5A28 100uf 200v (behind flyback), C936 1000uf 16v in
pwr supply, C5A19 100uf 16v near MS plug. Hope it helps you out, -Mike
 
We found CR14704 Scan Supply Diode Shorted where the relay clicks 3 times
as you described. After replacing it the set was fine. -Mike
 
Hi Again, We had another CTC203AX with a Bad Pip board that caused it too:
(F2PIP board) Try pulling the pip board out and turn the set on. It if
comes on the pip board is defective. -Mike
 
The display used is the same as the old Philips CD104 etc. I have had this
before. You can try to strip the plastic frontage off the display and
resolder the SM connections- (did this once) but its very tricky. any good
old service facility should have an old board somewhere to rob a display
off. I have 3 or 4 old machines for bits. (in UK)
Andrew

"Dave" <memu51@dsl.pipex.com> wrote in message
news:583f9dc8.0410202116.5dea8602@posting.google.com...
The green LED display on my Meridian CD200 CD player has a couple of
segments out - machine still works fine - but annoying!

Are such displays repairable - or do I have to try and find a
replacement display as I am not sure that Meridian could still supply
one -- any ideas on where to look ?

Please reply to memu51@dsl.pipex.com - any help would be appreciated

Thanks

David
Click to expand...
 
"Marc" <dbacks@attglobal.net> wrote in message
news:20e8027b.0410190656.3cb30262@posting.google.com...
OK, here is where I could really use the assistance of experienced
technical types.

I have an interest in electronics, but I am not proficient at
soldering.

I need advice on soldering tools: irons, solder, etc (I do have a
variac to regulate the iron)
Click to expand...
Well I working in a teaching lab in a UK univercity, recently I set up 5
stations
we only use cheapish antex irons of 25W and they seem OK.
Get a few different size bits too.


If you plan to do soldering also consider the health and safety aspects,
I've not seen them mentioned here so thought I'd mention it.

Every soldring iron we have is used with an extractor fan
to suck up the fumes, while not critical, when you've seen the
rubbish that collects in the extraction tubes you're really glad
it's not colleting in your lungs.
These extractors can seem expensive, sometimes more than the
irons themselves. We bought a pump for 10 stations cost over Ł1000 UKP
But you can get small standalone versions which are better than nothing.

Also we supply goggles and these are very cheap when you consider
they could save you're eye from molton flux or even solder.

If you're planning on reclaiming components get a solder sucker and some
desolder braid.
 
Do you hear the loading motor run while trying to insert the disc? -Mike
 
http://www.manuals4you.com






On Thu, 8 Jul 2004 22:00:59 -0400, "Eugen T" <viperz@nomorespam.com>
wrote:

Not all eastern europe sites are fraud.
I bought manuals from www.getmanual.com , which appears to be a Russian
site. Got link to PDF download minutes after I paid for the manual.

"john" <va3mmTAKEOUTTHIS@niagara.com> wrote in message
news:newscache$9zyj0i$lla$1@newsfeed.niagara.com...
Its an eastern europe site...FORGET IT.

kip



--
"Watch the return E-Mail addy its false"
"bigdaddy" <NOspamruha43@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:qr9re0lujfb43384006763m9o4no7iu854@4ax.com...
Hi, has anybody used the above company. Because I burned my finger by
ordering Sony Camcorder manual from http://www.service-manuals.net
which does not exit anymore and was paid through another fraud company
call http://www.mypaysystems.com/consumer which gave the order no.
etc. and when I checked it at their site, it has no record of their
given details.
Click to expand...
Want to Fix Something?

http://www.manuals4you.com
 
Thanks Jacques: Merci Indeed for the post.
"Jacques Carrier" <jcarrier@collegeem.qc.ca> wrote in message
news:e8015e99.0410220914.4f7331d@posting.google.com...
Hi fellow techs,

I just want to inform you that this great repair site is back in business.

Full of repair case histories.

WWW.ANATEKCORP.COM

Jacques Carrier
Click to expand...
 
On Thu, 21 Oct 2004 13:09:44 -0700, Darren Harris wrote:

I know nothing at all about PDAs or programming. But from what I can
tell, it wouldn't suit my purpose anyway. I was visualizing two
displays(like the big red numbers on those easy to read digital
clocks). For power consumption reasons I assumed that this timer would
have to be something I'd plug into an outlet. I could settle for a
timer that would increment at 1/100th of a second instead of 1/60th.
So I guess that would mean that I'd need 8 decimal places for the
display that would show the split times.

Anyway, from what I gather, what I want to do is too complicated,
going by the recommdations so far.
Click to expand...
Oh, that's only because everybody jumped on that pocket thing.
All you need is a clock oscillator, a counter, a few latches
and display drivers, and some gating logic.

You push "start", that gates on the counter (so you get a full cycle
at start time - the oscillator is free-running), and then your "time 1"
button latches the current count into display 1, your "time 2" button
latches display 2, and so on. You can add displays all day long, if you
want.

Maybe a dozen parts, if you do it all with "discrete" chips.

Or perhaps there is a way to use a PDA hidden in a specially built box
where it would output to the kind of displays I need. Is this
plausible?
Click to expand...
Yabbut, it's way overkill, or maybe "underkill." ;-) Like I said, you can
do it with a few counters and latches. For a digital weenie like me, it's
just a matter of connecting the dots. :)

Chips you might want to look at:
74HC393 - dual decade counter
74HC273 - 8-bit D FF (or edge-triggered latch)

Oh, yeah, you'll need some kind of BCD-to-7-segment decoders, but you
already knew that, right? ;-)

Have Fun!
Rich
 
Hi all,

I`ve got a Sony Trinitron Colour 4:3 PAL TV (KV-X2141D), purchased in
1993. It`s hooked up to cable TV. Lately I have been experiencing a very
odd problem, which I totally cannot explain. Perhaps someone here can help
me.

My display will all of a sudden `lose` the ability to show colour. The
image will only output black & white on every channel. The problem begins
after 30-60 minutes of use and therefore makes watching TV almost
impossible. Switching the TV off and back on again does not help. If I
wait an hour or so I get my colour back. But then my TV only takes minutes
to revert back into black & white. If I wait a day before turning it on
again the old pattern returns: black & white after 30-60 minutes of use.

Although my television is hooked up through a video with the cable signal,
I have confirmed that the problem is definitely my TV. When I use tv-out
on my computer (with a direct connection to the television) the same
problem occurs. That rules out both my video-recorder and my cable signal.
Which couldn`t have been the problem in the first place, as de signal
downstairs comes through in colour.

Here`s a twist: teletext always shows in colour, even when the tv signal
has dropped into black & white mode. I`m not an expert, but to me that
means that the screen itself is still working. I`m guessing something is
heating up and failing, but I can`t understand why the damage would not be
permanent or instantly occur.

Can anyone shed some light on this? Based on the symptoms, which is the
most likely place to look for the solution? Is it the TV or some cable or
something?

Any help appreciated.

Regards,
Willem van der Berg
Click to expand...
The colour problem is a fault in the PAL decoder in the TV (you are in
Holland aren't you?)
Now its impossible to diagnose the problem from here, perhaps a faulty
crystal oscillator?
However I might be able to suggest a work-around.

Does your cable box have a menu option for RGB output?

And does that old Sony have a SCART socket?

If so, and the socket supports RGB input, you will get colour and a better
picture than before.

Teletext is an RGB signal routed internally, no surprise its unaffected.


--
Graham.

%Profound_observation%
 
This site is very good never had a problem.

http://www.manuals4you.com







Why would you buy from a Russian or Eastern European
site when there are plenty on this side of the world.
Click to expand...

Not to mention spamming the shit out of you for months after.
jmo


Not all eastern europe sites are fraud.
I bought manuals from www.getmanual.com , which appears to be a Russian
site. Got link to PDF download minutes after I paid for the manual.
Click to expand...
 
On Fri, 22 Oct 2004 22:05:25 +0100, Graham wrote:

Hello Graham,

Thanks for your reply.

The colour problem is a fault in the PAL decoder in the TV (you are in
Holland aren't you?)
Click to expand...
Yes I am.

Now its impossible to diagnose the problem from here, perhaps a faulty
crystal oscillator?
However I might be able to suggest a work-around.

Does your cable box have a menu option for RGB output?

And does that old Sony have a SCART socket?

If so, and the socket supports RGB input, you will get colour and a better
picture than before.

Teletext is an RGB signal routed internally, no surprise its unaffected.
Click to expand...
Indeed, it`s hard to diagnose the problem without actually looking at the
unit. But from what you are saying I gather that the source of my problem
is a defect in the TV. In other words, something I cannot fix myself,
like replacing a cable or something. For now that is the most important
thing to know.

I am not entirely sure what you mean with a cable box, in Holland every
house simply has a coax connection. Hook your cable on and voila, there is
no box or any settings to change. Which means I am out of luck there I
guess...

It seems like I need to bring the unit in for repair, I am not sure I want
to do this. I mean, it`s an old TV and not the main one... the repair will
set me back at least 50 euros. I`m considering buying a TV card for my
computer as an intermediate solution and purchasing a widescreen LCD when
they become affordable.

BTW, tonight it worked for two hours. Yesterday it worked for 20 minutes.
Does that make any sense?

Regards,
Willem
 
On Fri, 22 Oct 2004 01:15:45 -0400, "techdrive" <mikeinpa@suscom.net>
wrote:

Hi Again, We had another CTC203AX with a Bad Pip board that caused it too:
(F2PIP board) Try pulling the pip board out and turn the set on. It if
comes on the pip board is defective. -Mike
Click to expand...
Mike, Same kind of several possible causes. Rather than just comdemn
it as defective, look at your F2PIP board, The LM317 regulator, on
solder side, there is two SMD resistors that trims the LM317
regulator's voltage output. One of two resistors has cracked solder.
Resolder that, and you should be good to go.

Done three of those.

Cheers,

Wizard
 
Hi;

I appreciate everyone's participation in the last thread, but I was thinking. .
.. . .

I started a new thread because the old one is getting old enough to get missed.

Right now can't find the original thread in a couple pages, sorted by OP date.

Anyway I'd like to respond to a response that I could use my fluke (has TRMS)
to measure the RMS and then do the simple calculation V^2/inpedance.

I've thought about this and I submit that I think it'll result in even lower
numbers. Looking at your typical audio waveform I believe that it would be
lower than what the Fluke would decipher from a pure sine wave. I wouldn't let
it clip of course, but a sinewave would load the PS rail down even more. Is
that what you meant ? or did you mean to NOT simply do the RMS calculation in
the math stage ?

From your suggestion, I figure even my numbers to be inflated then. Also, to do
it with real music the Fluke would keep changing the reading, but if I
absolutely didn't let it clip (on the scope) and used the highest reading I got
in a certain time period, I might get a truer number. Also if the amp were
feeding a real life speaker instead of a resistor, while power at lower
frequencies will be higher per volt, that will of course load the rails down
harder.

We're getting to the point where we need to figure out how damn much power is
it ?

How about a voltage rating and a minimum impedance ? Let the public know the
"secrets" of Ohm's law for a change. I use an analogy to car headlights. At 72
watts, well each one is 36, that is because they are 4 ohms each and they are
hooked together. That 6 amps, not because Ohm invented the thing, what he did
was to mathematically express a natural relationship. I go on with that's why
that thing in your car in the 80's was NOT 200 watts when it only has a 6 amp
fuse.

If they can't figure that out, I forget talking technical stuff with them.
Waste of time. In a perfect world you wouldn't even have a highschool diploma
without being able to comprehend Ohm's law. (and know how to drive)

The thing that really interested me in that amp was the fact that I saw a 2
ohms rating of 700 RMS per ch. My speakers are a hair over two ohms and I need
to aquire an amp soon that can run them. What I'm using is so old and decrepit
that I need to change it out.

That is not my sole interest in the subject by any means, but that's what
started it.

Anyway I appreciate opinions, So thanks again.

JURB
 
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