Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article <1119674263.197097.247680@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>,
Glenn Gundlach <stratus46@yahoo.com> wrote:

I'm sitting here looking at my homebuilt digital clock that is counting
120 zero crosses of the AC line as its 1 second time base. Motorola
processor. Do you need the absolute accuracy or would counting
2,592,000 AC zero crosses do the trick?

In the UK, the mains frequency might well average out at 50 Hz over 24
hours, but that's not the same as being absolutely accurate over any 6
hour period. Can't see the US being any different.

--
*The man who fell into an upholstery machine is fully recovered.*

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

 

[jbclem]

I've fixed my Sears washing machine many times and I think bad timers are just one of
many possibilities, and not the most common. I just had the exact same problem you
describe and it was the belt that chose to break right at that moment when the machine
was filled with water. To do any investigation you really need to drain the water out
so you can turn the machine around or on it's side and look at the mechanisn. It's easy
to spot a broken belt because the motor be spinning but nothing else will turn. I'm not
familiar with the Maytag, but one easy way to drain the washer is to pull the hose off
of the water pump and just let the water flow. If you can't do that because your
machine is inside the house, try pumping the water out with a small garden pump.

For my Sears washer I have a really good repair manual put out by Sears. Perhaps Maytag
has something similiar.

John



<darrin_p_s@att.net> wrote in message
news:1119402145.812646.51230@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

My 12 year old Maytag (Model LAT8034AAE) just stopped working. It
filled with water and then stopped. The timer does not advance but the
light comes on. I replaced the timer less than a year ago (different
symptom then).

So, it is full of water, and no matter what I do it will not turn on
although the light does stay on even when the lid is in the upright
position.

Any idea what it might be?

Could it be that the switch died in mid-action? Again, it did know to
fill with water before it stopped.

Thanks!

 

[jbclem]

Forgot to mention that there are some great websites, usually hosted by companies that
sell repair parts, where you can get troubleshooting information, schematics, and ask
questions that will usually be answered by professional repairmen. Here are some:
http://www.acmehowto.com
http://www.repairclinic.com
www.doityourself.com

John


<darrin_p_s@att.net> wrote in message
news:1119402145.812646.51230@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

My 12 year old Maytag (Model LAT8034AAE) just stopped working. It
filled with water and then stopped. The timer does not advance but the
light comes on. I replaced the timer less than a year ago (different
symptom then).

So, it is full of water, and no matter what I do it will not turn on
although the light does stay on even when the lid is in the upright
position.

Any idea what it might be?

Could it be that the switch died in mid-action? Again, it did know to
fill with water before it stopped.

Thanks!

 

[Asimov]

"Searcher7@mail.con2.com" bravely wrote to "All" (24 Jun 05 09:35:29)
--- on the heady topic of "Wanted: A Very Accurate Timer"

Se> From: Searcher7@mail.con2.com
Se> Xref: aeinews sci.electronics.design:24723
Se> sci.electronics.repair:51346

Se> Can I get recomendations for the most accurate electronic timer that I
Se> can buy?

Se> It must to be accurate to within 1/60th of a second over the course of
Se> 6 hours.

Se> Is something like this commercially available, or will I have to build
Se> it, or have someone build it?

Se> Any advice would be appreciated.

Se> Thanks a lot.


Darren,

A typical lcd wrist watch with an alarm has quartz crystal precision.
What sort of use are you in need of a timer for? Cooking eggs? What?

A*s*i*m*o*v

.... Acme Corp: Unlimited credit for disadvantaged coyotes.

 

[Christopher Tidy]

Brian Elfert wrote:

Christopher Tidy <cdt22NOSPAM@cantabgold.net> writes:


But some places have a skip all the time, and the scrap metal skips can
offer especially rich pickings. Learn which organisations in your town


It is probably illegal to remove material from a scrap metal bin. Scrap
metal is worth money so someone will make less money if you take some.

It is better for the environment to reuse scrap metal than to recycle it,
but the local police might not like that argument.

When I want stuff from a scrap metal skip I usually get to know the
people who fill the skip and ask their permission. Here these skips are
often provided on a "free skip for scrap metal" basis, so it's no odds
to them whether items go in the skip or are taken by me.

Chris

 

[Tom MacIntyre]

On 24 Jun 2005 13:01:09 -0700, "Too_Many_Tools"
<too_many_tools@yahoo.com> wrote:

I am crossposting this question since I think it will be of general
interest...sorry if that offends someone.

Now to the questions....what kinds of electronic and mechanical "trash"
is WORTH disassembling and keeping for parts to build other projects?

Capacitors...resistors...

What did you keep that you should have thrown long ago?

What did you throw that you still kick yourself for tossing?

Books...NEVER get rid of a book...

Tom

I look forward to your suggestions, experiences and jokes. ;&lt

TMT

 

[Terry]

On 24 Jun 2005 13:01:09 -0700, "Too_Many_Tools"
<too_many_tools@yahoo.com> wrote:

=>....what kinds of electronic and mechanical "trash" is WORTH
disassembling and keeping for parts to build other projects?

"Trash?" Never. "Stuffe" and "Junque," maybe, but never the "T" word!

I think I have managed to save about every single bit and piece of
anything I have ever owned (I'm 71 now) and have actually used one or
two items in other projects. My wife and I built rows of heavy shelves
in our basement so we could store treasures for possible use in the
future (I had three shelves and she the rest--she's as bad as I). I
was lucky to have worked for an electronics company for 20 years and
managed to squirrel away mounds of valuable goodies. On several
occasions, several cartons of obsolete components would appear in the
hallway near the stockroom with a sign reading, "Take all you want,
but have it out of the building by 5PM." Oh, the good-ol' days.

I have stripped boards for valuable, i.e., hard-to-find parts, tossing
them when they are down to vanilla R and C components. Always save
large electrolytics, power transistors, heat sinks, high-wattage
resistors, easily removed connectors (bless he who invented the
thodderthukker!). Wire is always saved, whatever its configuration, as
well as cases, plugs, sockets, relays, etc... ALWAYS save screws!

As for disposing of stuffe and junque, it can be traumatic as most of
you know. Tossing that rusty 4-inch encabulator will defintely prompt
a project several months from now that requires a 4-inch encabulator.
Right?

In this vein, allow me to share a (maybe not so) humorous story. Not
too long after getting my ham license, I was fatally bitten by the
Teletype bug when a fellow ham and co-worker sold me all his TTY gear,
which included spare parts, manuals, and other good stuffe. Wow! The
smell of hot oil, the thunderous din, dodging gear teeth as they
ricocheted out of the case! Ecstacy! From then on I was hooked, and
collected, cataloged, and stored every bit and piece that even vaguely
could be used in a TTY application.

Over several years I acquired several more TTY machines, in the end
managing to have five running simultaneously on HF and VHF radio
circuits! The sound was deafening! But what fun it was to keep them
all running. A local radio station surplussed all their paper and tape
when they converted from mechanical to glass terminals, and of course
I was there with my little LUV truck to help them out!

Moving time came finally and I decided that it was time to cut back a
bit. (Actualy, the new house didn't have room for a tenth of our
stuffe, let alone all the TTY equipment.) A local ham and I had been
conversing for months about TTY and he said he would take all the TTY
gear I didn't want. He came over, looked at it, and came back a week
or so later with a mid-size U-Haul truck. We loaded it all in and I
watched him slowly roll away, the sides of the box bulging as he
disappeared arround the corner.

I heard a few months later that he was in divorce procedings! I guess
she just couldn't take it!

Moral: Be careful what you toss out. Better yet, build more shelves!

Cheers--


Terry--WB4FXD
Edenton, NC

 

[Elvis Kabong]

"boardjunkie" <boardjunkie@techie.com> wrote in
message
news:1119540855.300280.275930@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

I had this SM-900 rack bass head come in for
repair (fan failed and
caused a meltdown) and someone had already been
in there mucking around
with it. Since there are no connectors for the
pwr amp modules, the
previous "tech" has broken off a couple of wires
from the pcb. The
service manual details one side of the output
section (its a
stereo/biamp head) but not the other, and
they're not identical. There
are 2 20awg brown wires that have been torn
loose. One comes from the
AC leg of the main bridge rectifier and connects
to the corner of one
output pcb, which is shown in the schemo and has
been repaired. The
other brown wire is attached at the opposite pwr
amp pcb and connects
(I assume) to the other side amp pcb. Anyone
worked on this unit and
know where this wire is going? I assume it would
be after the rectifier
diode at the filter cap and they're just jumping
voltage to the other
amp pcb but I want to be sure so I don't have a
smokeshow after I just
rebuilt the damn thing.

The techs at Fender were of *no* help
whatsoever......just tried to
talk me into sending it out to them. No
thanks.....I'm not eating the
time I already have into it.

Also....anyone know the idle current for the
output amps and where they
check it at?

Thanks
Travis

You're lucky. I have one in the shop already
repaired.
However, I need to get offline soon and get to
work.
Email me about exactly what you need and after
work
I'll reply with the info you need. Sometime today,
I'll
reopen it since the schematic is not all that
informative.

Biasing it requires a scope and I'll have to look
up
the procedure or just take a reading
of the idle current and give you that.

Email me at ampscience@bellsound.net
(sub "psychic" for "science" and "south" for
"sound")

Ed @ Sonic Surgery

 

[NSM]

"mike" <spamme0@netscape.net> wrote in message
news:42BCD8EB.3040605@netscape.net...

Once you have this precision, you need some way to reliably use it.

I always get a chuckle out of "Star Trek". They've got massive
computers calculating precise timing, trajectories etc.
but they always initiate it with an imprecise verbal command, "ENGAGE".

Hard to take a show seriously where spacecraft make banking turns in space
and go "Whoosh" as they pass you. "Blake's 7" at least got that part right.

N

 

[NSM]

<psistormyamato@cs.com> wrote in message
news:1119720106.315591.325070@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...

Should I use better splitters?
Do I need a signal amp?

Get a 5 way splitter and use that. Use a Radio Shack amp if needs be - some
have a built in splitter.

N

 

[NSM]

"moonlite" <elect21st@aol.com> wrote in message
news:1119723288.529534.106820@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

One of the many TV's I have exhibits a strange symptom. It is located
in one of the kids' rooms and uses a small antenna on top of the TV.
The antenna is connected directly to the TV. Sometimes color is
intermittent. Some channels come on in black and white, and after
moving the antenna sometimes color returns, and sometimes it does not.
Can a weak signal cause this ? Picture otherwise is fine. Thanks

What happens if you hook it to a VCR/DVD?

N

 

[Fred McKenzie]

In article <1119716451.552143.280600@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>,
"spongehead" <hgoodale_msp@msn.com> wrote:

I picked up this Sears model 917.387440 6.25hp push lawnmower at a yard
sale for 5 bucks and someone had attempted to do some carb work on it
which failed miserably by looking at it. The gas line is cracked and
the jet needle was missing. Easy enough to get those parts at the
local Sears place. However, I cant really tell how the carb levers and
springs go into place, maybe Im missing another part but hard to tell.

Sponge-

Go to a Sears Service Center. You might be able to order the owners
manual for that model, but they have it on microfilm. If you explain your
problem, they should let you look at the info, and perhaps print a page
for you.

I've found them to be extremely helpful finding newer parts when older
models have been discontinued. Be sure to take along the engine model
data.

Fred

 

[NSM]

<psistormyamato@cs.com> wrote in message
news:1119728961.367344.84790@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

The 3 legs that I am running are far apart.
I could use 3 lenghts of 16 ft wire with 3 splitters or well over 150
ft of wire with a 5-way.

Multiple splitters is a bad idea. The only other way is to run one cable and
use taps and not splitters.

N

 

[L.]

"Terry" <katamasouth@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:42bd8bc8.5367837@netnews.mchsi.com...

On 24 Jun 2005 13:01:09 -0700, "Too_Many_Tools"
too_many_tools@yahoo.com> wrote:

=>....what kinds of electronic and mechanical "trash" is WORTH
disassembling and keeping for parts to build other projects?

"Trash?" Never. "Stuffe" and "Junque," maybe, but never the "T" word!

I think I have managed to save about every single bit and piece of
anything I have ever owned (I'm 71 now) and have actually used one or
two items in other projects. My wife and I built rows of heavy shelves
in our basement so we could store treasures for possible use in the
future (I had three shelves and she the rest--she's as bad as I). I
was lucky to have worked for an electronics company for 20 years and
managed to squirrel away mounds of valuable goodies. On several
occasions, several cartons of obsolete components would appear in the
hallway near the stockroom with a sign reading, "Take all you want,
but have it out of the building by 5PM." Oh, the good-ol' days.

I have stripped boards for valuable, i.e., hard-to-find parts, tossing
them when they are down to vanilla R and C components. Always save
large electrolytics, power transistors, heat sinks, high-wattage
resistors, easily removed connectors (bless he who invented the
thodderthukker!). Wire is always saved, whatever its configuration, as
well as cases, plugs, sockets, relays, etc... ALWAYS save screws!

As for disposing of stuffe and junque, it can be traumatic as most of
you know. Tossing that rusty 4-inch encabulator will defintely prompt
a project several months from now that requires a 4-inch encabulator.
Right?

In this vein, allow me to share a (maybe not so) humorous story. Not
too long after getting my ham license, I was fatally bitten by the
Teletype bug when a fellow ham and co-worker sold me all his TTY gear,
which included spare parts, manuals, and other good stuffe. Wow! The
smell of hot oil, the thunderous din, dodging gear teeth as they
ricocheted out of the case! Ecstacy! From then on I was hooked, and
collected, cataloged, and stored every bit and piece that even vaguely
could be used in a TTY application.

Over several years I acquired several more TTY machines, in the end
managing to have five running simultaneously on HF and VHF radio
circuits! The sound was deafening! But what fun it was to keep them
all running. A local radio station surplussed all their paper and tape
when they converted from mechanical to glass terminals, and of course
I was there with my little LUV truck to help them out!

Moving time came finally and I decided that it was time to cut back a
bit. (Actualy, the new house didn't have room for a tenth of our
stuffe, let alone all the TTY equipment.) A local ham and I had been
conversing for months about TTY and he said he would take all the TTY
gear I didn't want. He came over, looked at it, and came back a week
or so later with a mid-size U-Haul truck. We loaded it all in and I
watched him slowly roll away, the sides of the box bulging as he
disappeared arround the corner.

I heard a few months later that he was in divorce procedings! I guess
she just couldn't take it!

Moral: Be careful what you toss out. Better yet, build more shelves!

Cheers--


Terry--WB4FXD
Edenton, NC

While I may not have as much as some, I may have more than others. Certainly
more than "I" thought I'd ever have and desire at the moment to keep.
However, there is I believe - a saying which - even if not well known and
perhaps not verbatum, "I" live by - "you won't need it until you've thrown
it away." Sure enough, often it happens. Ya toss an item in the trash today.
A day or so after it's gone, you are in need and you kick yourself for
having tossed it.

As for screws, I have about 6 - 3 lb coffee cans full of them. I strip them
from ANYTHING I cannibalize - be it electronics, furniture or anything in
between. I save all parts I can get off PC boards or out of chassis - in
decent condition. The rest - well.... someone else has to have some fun
going through the dump!

Way before E-Bay and the internet, I had about 1000 tubes of all sorts that
an old TV/Radio repair shop gone out of business - threw away.
It took me about 2 weeks of a few hours of sorting. I kept some of the more
popular ones then - such as for Tube set TVs which some folks still used,
the then still current Tube AM/FM Radios/CBs/Ham. NOW I see people needing
many of those I destroyed - for the older tube "Car" radios and such. Yes, I
"destroyed" the others by smashing them. My theory is, if "I" can't prosper
from it - no one will. About the only thing one "can" prosper from where I
don't play, is the scrap metal from any chassis I throw out.

There was "an" occasion or two where I sold some containers of surplus parts
and "pulled" parts. I got my price for them. In one instance, I sold about
12 bigger electroylitics at a hamfest. They were pretty hefty but I had no
use for them. A woman apparently sent her boy over to buy them from me, to
resell (unbeknownst to me). Someone told me about it once they were bought.
I said simply - "I" made my profit, who cares???? I got from them what I
wanted. God bless her if she got hers. A big part of my collection now, is
I've bought out a few businesses, computer shops, etc. I've got boxes of
unused parts still not even catagorized. I've got some RS stuff bought in
bulk, some of which isn't even sold by them anymore.

I'm working on a web site as I speak, I hope to offer much of it there. I
won't do E-Bay as I don't want much for a lot of it and the selling/listing
fees wouldn't make it worth my while. I'd have to add it in just to make it
work and I don't want to do that. My purpose is to get the parts out as
cheap as I can to those in need. Shipping, I can't do much about, except
hope they order enough to make it worth "their" while.

Collecting can be fun and meaningful, but as others have witnessed, it can
"over take" you.

L.

 

[howard]

g.m.j. Wrote:

, can you tell us how to fix it?

Like I said in my first posting, I got the repair manual which has some
good information, but just taking the side off and putting it back on
worked for me. I have no idea what problems you are having and I am
not a repair person. You might check the FPC (flexible printed
circuit) as it is outlined in the service manual.


--
howard

 

[MOP CAP]

Futher about taking from scrap bins. Back in the 30's there was a Co.
here in SF that made plumb bobs for K&E. They made them for free. All
K&E had to do was supply the brass. Their profit was in the turnings
and it was all set up in an orderly production basis. It was send back
to the brass supplier as guaranteed content.

Chuck P.

 

[Pooh Bear]

Tom MacIntyre wrote:

Books...NEVER get rid of a book...

I have some National semiconductor data and applications books here dating
from '76 and '80. Gems.

I'm not sure but I think one ( or even two ) may have finally made it *back*
into print ! Unaltered in content too.

Graham

 

[Kalman Rubinson]

On 25 Jun 2005 15:03:00 -0700, "Raventy" <ano316gamer@comcast.net>
wrote:

Hey guys,
I have an arcade machine which inside has 4 speakers and a subwoofer.
Durring the moving of the machine, the subwoofer broke loose along with
its wires and I cant exactly figure out where it hooked into. Can
subwoofers be hooked in series or parallel with speakers or do they
need some special connection for them?

Depends. If it has its own filter/crossover, it can probably be put
in parallel (not series). Otherwise, not.

Kal

 

[NSM]

"Raventy" <ano316gamer@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:1119736980.549143.278720@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

Hey guys,
I have an arcade machine which inside has 4 speakers and a subwoofer.
Durring the moving of the machine, the subwoofer broke loose along with
its wires and I cant exactly figure out where it hooked into. Can
subwoofers be hooked in series or parallel with speakers or do they
need some special connection for them?

Dual coil?

N

 

[Christopher Tidy]

MOP CAP wrote:

Futher about taking from scrap bins. Back in the 30's there was a Co.
here in SF that made plumb bobs for K&E. They made them for free. All
K&E had to do was supply the brass. Their profit was in the turnings
and it was all set up in an orderly production basis. It was send back
to the brass supplier as guaranteed content.

A friend who works for a very large engineering firm (who buy maybe
10,000 tons of steel a day) told me they pay less than the regular scrap
value for it. Don't know if this is true or not?

Chris