Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[Mikey]

Xiongnu wrote:

hi, all

my air bed's electric air pump doesn't hold a charge anymore - after
several times of usage.

i took the pump apart and looked inside, there's four cylindrical
rechargeable batteries attached with the innner case, it seems these
batteries can be switched out for replacement. the air pump is generic
one, comes with my air bed, anyone knows where can i get rechargeable
batteries for replacement?

How old is the pump? How many times is "several times of use"? If you've
only used it a few times and it's not very old, it may be still under
warranty and you can get the pump or batteries replaced for free.

 

[Jason D.]

On 23 Jun 2005 07:19:33 -0700, "Adam M" <icecubeland@hotmail.com>
wrote:

Hey guys.

Just wondering if you can help me.

I recently had a replacement Samsung 753s CRT monitor. It came with two
pins bent, causing slight ghosting and a poor unchangable refresh rate.
I carefully bent these back from the bottom.

You have should not have done the repair, should have demanded another
exchange. They will! I had to do 2 times at our work because
customer wasn't satifised.

By the way, cost of a signal cable for samsung is about 40-60 from
your electronic shop who is authorized to service samsung stuff.
Takes few minutes to swap signal cable.

When I plugged the monitor back in, the refresh rate would change but
there was stll slight ghosting. I took it out again and half of pin 10
came off in the VGA port. Half of pin 10, not the whole thing -
suggesting poor quality pins to me.

Actually not. Samsung's signal cable is not too bad even cable looks
mighty thin. The red, green and blue are shielded coaxes
individually. The red, green and blue signal are on pin 1, 2 and 3.
Their video signal coax shield grounds is also individual on pin 6, 7
and 8.

Samsung have decided this problem is due to accidental damage and won't
replace the monitor, however I'm not sure that the partially-missing
pin is the problem.

That's right as reasons stated above.

The monitor appears to be working fine excluding the ghosting. I can't
seem to find an up-to-date VGA port mapping diagram to determine the
function of pin 10.

Are you using VGA signal extension cable between monitor and computer?
Not all VGA signal extension cables are equal. Thick ones will give
you good results. The $5 VGA extension cables are just wires, no video
signal shielded coaxes so it get lot of cross talk and signal
reflections.

Anyone know the function of VGA pin 10? Could it be causing the
ghosting? If it's an actual fault with the unit and I'm not responsible
for it I can start nagging Samsung for a replacement again, and I don't
want to wire a new VGA port on the end if it isn't going so solve the
problem.

Pin 10 is ground, Nothing to do with what you are having.

Cheers, Wizard

 

[Dr. Anton T. Squeegee]

In article <1119566361.749170.240030@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com>,
RonKZ650@aol.com says...

I've been in the TV business 26 yrs and am still using a 1979 model
scope 30mhz Leader. Is there a big advantage to these new digital
scopes? I've also got a Fluke 123 scopemeter that's 20mhz that I'm not
thrilled with. Any recommendations for a TV guy who also dabbles in
pinball repair that uses digital timing on ICs. I can't make any sense
of any digital signals with the old scope or the Fluke.

Based on your stated applications, you could get a heck of a lot
of performance out of one of the older Tektronix 7000 series
instruments.

I would suggest a 7603 mainframe, a 7B53 timebase, and a 7A26
vertical plug-in. All should be available from ham swap meets or greed-
bay at pretty reasonable prices. In fact, I'd be surprised if the whole
thing cost you more than $100-$150. This setup will be good from DC to
at least 100MHz.

If you need higher bandwidth to grow with as your needs change, I
would suggest a 7704 (250MHz), 7904 (500MHz), or (if you really need
gigahertz bandwidth) a 7104 mainframe, coupled with appropriate plug-
ins.

If you would like something 'luggable,' yet versatile, I would
suggest a 465 or 475 series portable 'scope, preferably with the
multimeter option.

You may also want to look into a 7D20 digitizer. They were
practically made for the 7603.

Happy hunting. Don't forget decent probes!

--
Dr. Anton T. Squeegee, Director, Dutch Surrealist Plumbing Institute.
(Known to some as Bruce Lane, ARS KC7GR,
kyrrin (a/t) bluefeathertech[d=o=t]calm -- www.bluefeathertech.com
"If Salvador Dali had owned a computer, would it have been equipped
with surreal ports?"

 

[James Sweet]

"Raventy" <ano316gamer@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:1119401295.498195.107170@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

Hey guys,
I have a 50" Hitachi projection TV and the white on it isnt so white
anymore its got more of a purple tint to it. This small picture (
http://home.comcast.net/~raventy/sample.JPG ) can kinda give you an
idea. Is there any way to fix that? Thanks!

Looks like you're missing green, it could be as simple as a cracked solder
joint or as extensive as a cracked green CRT, best you can do without
calling a tech is to take a peak inside and see if there's any glow at all
from the green tube, and if there's not, if there's any fluid leakage,
particularly pooled down inside the neck of the tube.

 

[James Sweet]

"jango2" <crow_slapper@yahoo.co.uk> wrote in message
news:1119423645.243186.287070@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

My 5th day working on this Panasonic PT-L735E projector. I'm beginning
to feel worthless and like such a loser.
When i first got the unit it would power up but the lamp wouldnt turn
on. It would time out in 5 minutes and report a red l.e.d. "lamp"
circuit failure.
I bought the service manual,found 2 diodes next to one of four IGBTs to
be short. D9607 (MA3X158 Switching diode) in the base emitter circuit
of a driver transistor (which was also short) firing the IGBT(Q9608),
and D9608 (MA3X720 Schottky barrier diode)reverse biased across the
base emitter of the IGBT .
Replaced all 3 with equivalents, now the unit power's up, lamp turns on
for 6 seconds and then the unit shuts down. The service manual doesnt
have a schematic for the Q module which has a microcontroller on board
which counts hours and stuff related to ballast firing, switching lamp
mode from low to high and regulation.
Wish i could post a screen shot of the afflicted section here , doesnt
seem possible.
Any ballast experts out there to gve me some tips? The IGBT's seem ok.
Checking passive components in the peripheral area too but everything
checks out fine.
What's the role of the schottky diode here?
The circuit has 2 pairs of igbts (n channel) in series, firing the
igniter transformer which lies in between the collecor emitter
junctions (centre rails).
The igbt pairs are driven by two ic's described as "half bridge driver
master and half bridge driver slave".
The heat sink on the igbt seems to be getting rather hot.
This occupation gets increasingly difficult day by day .

Well you're making progress, in my experience with electronics in general
there's a good chance whatever problem is left is something small, simple,
and rather obscure.

 

[howard]

Ed Wrote:

I seem to have a problem with my Panasonic PV-DV203D.

!Maybe the following will help. I obtained the manual from
"manualzone.com", about 15 meg file. It lists the relationship between

the flashing Power LED as follows: 1 flash "T-Reel Lock", 2 flashes
"S-Reel Lock", 3 flashes "Unloading lock", 4 flashes, Loading lock and
5 flashes, cylinder lock.. They also noted that it may be a problem
with the F.P.C. [Flexible Printed Circuit] which connects different
boards and operating items on the camera. The service manual shows how
to fix that error, looks fairly simple.

I took the side off my camera, the square plastic part that says "PUSH
Close", fairly easy. You can then see how the camera is loading. Of
course, that fixed the problem, and I have put it back together and it
works fine. I now have a very large PDF file with more data than I
will ever use. But for $20, it was a deal.


--
howard

 

[Leonard Caillouet]

Good advice. I picked up one of these in that $ range a while back and it
is a great scope other than needing a lift to move it. There are tons of
these out there and mopules are cheap.

Leonard

"Dr. Anton T. Squeegee" <SpammersAreVermin@dev.null> wrote in message
news:MPG.1d251e27ad69f486989765@localhost...

In article <1119566361.749170.240030@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com>,
RonKZ650@aol.com says...

I've been in the TV business 26 yrs and am still using a 1979 model
scope 30mhz Leader. Is there a big advantage to these new digital
scopes? I've also got a Fluke 123 scopemeter that's 20mhz that I'm not
thrilled with. Any recommendations for a TV guy who also dabbles in
pinball repair that uses digital timing on ICs. I can't make any sense
of any digital signals with the old scope or the Fluke.

Based on your stated applications, you could get a heck of a lot
of performance out of one of the older Tektronix 7000 series
instruments.

I would suggest a 7603 mainframe, a 7B53 timebase, and a 7A26
vertical plug-in. All should be available from ham swap meets or greed-
bay at pretty reasonable prices. In fact, I'd be surprised if the whole
thing cost you more than $100-$150. This setup will be good from DC to
at least 100MHz.

If you need higher bandwidth to grow with as your needs change, I
would suggest a 7704 (250MHz), 7904 (500MHz), or (if you really need
gigahertz bandwidth) a 7104 mainframe, coupled with appropriate plug-
ins.

If you would like something 'luggable,' yet versatile, I would
suggest a 465 or 475 series portable 'scope, preferably with the
multimeter option.

You may also want to look into a 7D20 digitizer. They were
practically made for the 7603.

Happy hunting. Don't forget decent probes!

--
Dr. Anton T. Squeegee, Director, Dutch Surrealist Plumbing Institute.
(Known to some as Bruce Lane, ARS KC7GR,
kyrrin (a/t) bluefeathertech[d=o=t]calm -- www.bluefeathertech.com
"If Salvador Dali had owned a computer, would it have been equipped
with surreal ports?"

 

[Ian Stirling]

In sci.electronics.design Searcher7@mail.con2.com wrote:

Can I get recomendations for the most accurate electronic timer that I
can buy?

It must to be accurate to within 1/60th of a second over the course of
6 hours.

Is something like this commercially available, or will I have to build
it, or have someone build it?

GPS recievers.
I've seen some with an alarm function.
However, 1/60th of a second in 6 hours isn't impossible to do otherwise.

 

[Jim Thompson]

On 24 Jun 2005 17:19:09 GMT, Ian Stirling <root@mauve.demon.co.uk>
wrote:

In sci.electronics.design Searcher7@mail.con2.com wrote:
Can I get recomendations for the most accurate electronic timer that I
can buy?

It must to be accurate to within 1/60th of a second over the course of
6 hours.

Is something like this commercially available, or will I have to build
it, or have someone build it?

GPS recievers.
I've seen some with an alarm function.
However, 1/60th of a second in 6 hours isn't impossible to do otherwise.

An ordinary digital clock powered from the AC line is more accurate
than that.

...Jim Thompson
--
| James E.Thompson, P.E. | mens |
| Analog Innovations, Inc. | et |
| Analog/Mixed-Signal ASIC's and Discrete Systems | manus |
| Phoenix, Arizona Voice480)460-2350 | |
| E-mail Address at Website Fax480)460-2142 | Brass Rat |
| http://www.analog-innovations.com | 1962 |

I love to cook with wine. Sometimes I even put it in the food.

 

[Richard Henry]

"Jim Thompson" <thegreatone@example.com> wrote in message
news:kggob1t5oeo0lqt144oehefjvpab06l9nl@4ax.com...

On 24 Jun 2005 17:19:09 GMT, Ian Stirling <root@mauve.demon.co.uk
wrote:

In sci.electronics.design Searcher7@mail.con2.com wrote:
Can I get recomendations for the most accurate electronic timer that I
can buy?

It must to be accurate to within 1/60th of a second over the course of
6 hours.

Is something like this commercially available, or will I have to build
it, or have someone build it?

GPS recievers.
I've seen some with an alarm function.
However, 1/60th of a second in 6 hours isn't impossible to do otherwise.

An ordinary digital clock powered from the AC line is more accurate
than that.

On the surface, shouldn't that be "as accurate as that"? In North America
and other 60-Hz realms, at least.

I have heard horror stories about short-term inaccuracies in the power
system 60 Hz timing, that it is only guaranteed to be accurate within 1
cycle per day, for instance.

And I found this tidbit googling around for accurate clocks: "GPS time was
zero at 0h 6-Jan-1980 and since it is not perturbed by leap seconds GPS is
now ahead of UTC by 13 seconds."

 

[Jim Thompson]

On Fri, 24 Jun 2005 10:50:57 -0700, "Richard Henry" <rphenry@home.com>
wrote:

"Jim Thompson" <thegreatone@example.com> wrote in message
news:kggob1t5oeo0lqt144oehefjvpab06l9nl@4ax.com...
On 24 Jun 2005 17:19:09 GMT, Ian Stirling <root@mauve.demon.co.uk
wrote:

In sci.electronics.design Searcher7@mail.con2.com wrote:
Can I get recomendations for the most accurate electronic timer that I
can buy?

It must to be accurate to within 1/60th of a second over the course of
6 hours.

Is something like this commercially available, or will I have to build
it, or have someone build it?

GPS recievers.
I've seen some with an alarm function.
However, 1/60th of a second in 6 hours isn't impossible to do otherwise.

An ordinary digital clock powered from the AC line is more accurate
than that.

On the surface, shouldn't that be "as accurate as that"? In North America
and other 60-Hz realms, at least.

As I understand it, for grid-power-hopping to work, the accuracy is
_much_ better than that.

I have heard horror stories about short-term inaccuracies in the power
system 60 Hz timing, that it is only guaranteed to be accurate within 1
cycle per day, for instance.

I think that's nonsense.

And I found this tidbit googling around for accurate clocks: "GPS time was
zero at 0h 6-Jan-1980 and since it is not perturbed by leap seconds GPS is
now ahead of UTC by 13 seconds."

...Jim Thompson
--
| James E.Thompson, P.E. | mens |
| Analog Innovations, Inc. | et |
| Analog/Mixed-Signal ASIC's and Discrete Systems | manus |
| Phoenix, Arizona Voice480)460-2350 | |
| E-mail Address at Website Fax480)460-2142 | Brass Rat |
| http://www.analog-innovations.com | 1962 |

I love to cook with wine. Sometimes I even put it in the food.

 

[EL]

"Richard Henry" <rphenry@home.com> wrote in message news:3i2vg3Fj9lhnU1@individual.net...

"Jim Thompson" <thegreatone@example.com> wrote in message
news:kggob1t5oeo0lqt144oehefjvpab06l9nl@4ax.com...
On 24 Jun 2005 17:19:09 GMT, Ian Stirling <root@mauve.demon.co.uk
wrote:

In sci.electronics.design Searcher7@mail.con2.com wrote:
Can I get recomendations for the most accurate electronic timer that I
can buy?

It must to be accurate to within 1/60th of a second over the course of
6 hours.

Is something like this commercially available, or will I have to build
it, or have someone build it?

GPS recievers.
I've seen some with an alarm function.
However, 1/60th of a second in 6 hours isn't impossible to do otherwise.

An ordinary digital clock powered from the AC line is more accurate
than that.

On the surface, shouldn't that be "as accurate as that"? In North America
and other 60-Hz realms, at least.

I have heard horror stories about short-term inaccuracies in the power
system 60 Hz timing, that it is only guaranteed to be accurate within 1
cycle per day, for instance.

*** GASP!!!!!! ***

An error of one part in 5,184,000??!?!?!?!?!

How could anyone possibly tolerate that???!?!?!?!?!

;^)

 

[Richard Henry]

"EL" <nospam@here.com> wrote in message
news:42bc5a36$0$5749$9a6e19ea@news.newshosting.com...

"Richard Henry" <rphenry@home.com> wrote in message
news:3i2vg3Fj9lhnU1@individual.net...

"Jim Thompson" <thegreatone@example.com> wrote in message
news:kggob1t5oeo0lqt144oehefjvpab06l9nl@4ax.com...
On 24 Jun 2005 17:19:09 GMT, Ian Stirling <root@mauve.demon.co.uk
wrote:

In sci.electronics.design Searcher7@mail.con2.com wrote:
Can I get recomendations for the most accurate electronic timer that
I
can buy?

It must to be accurate to within 1/60th of a second over the course
of
6 hours.

Is something like this commercially available, or will I have to
build
it, or have someone build it?

GPS recievers.
I've seen some with an alarm function.
However, 1/60th of a second in 6 hours isn't impossible to do
otherwise.

An ordinary digital clock powered from the AC line is more accurate
than that.

On the surface, shouldn't that be "as accurate as that"? In North
America
and other 60-Hz realms, at least.

I have heard horror stories about short-term inaccuracies in the power
system 60 Hz timing, that it is only guaranteed to be accurate within 1
cycle per day, for instance.

*** GASP!!!!!! ***

An error of one part in 5,184,000??!?!?!?!?!

How could anyone possibly tolerate that???!?!?!?!?!

;^)

I recall working with a marketing guy a few years back who had a customer
interested in a ruggedized PC that had timing accurate to 1 second/month,
even when turned off. He thought the PC's real-time clock chip would be ok,
because it has its own battery.

 

[DaveM]

<Searcher7@mail.con2.com> wrote in message
news:1119630929.669564.123610@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

Can I get recomendations for the most accurate electronic timer that I
can buy?

It must to be accurate to within 1/60th of a second over the course of
6 hours.

Is something like this commercially available, or will I have to build
it, or have someone build it?

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks a lot.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

Dan,
Sadly enough, there have been a number of replies to your question, but none
have attempted to answer it directly.
But, you didn't state the intended use or desired method of operation of the
timer. Assuming that you are looking for a handheld timer suitable for
tasks such as cooking or sunbathing, almost any of the common timers
available at outlets such as Radio Shack, Target, Walmart, etc. should fill
your bill. They are all crystal controlled, and although their accuracy
isn't usually stated in the specs, they should easily meet your
requirements.
If you're looking for an industrial timer that can control other devices,
then you need to specify what kind of equipment or the power requirements of
the equipment.

--
Dave M
MasonDG44 at comcast dot net (Just subsitute the appropriate characters in
the address)

Never take a laxative and a sleeping pill at the same time!!

 

[DaveM]

"Too_Many_Tools" <too_many_tools@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1119643269.292995.117670@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...

I am crossposting this question since I think it will be of general
interest...sorry if that offends someone.

Now to the questions....what kinds of electronic and mechanical "trash"
is WORTH disassembling and keeping for parts to build other projects?

What did you keep that you should have thrown long ago?

What did you throw that you still kick yourself for tossing?

I look forward to your suggestions, experiences and jokes. ;&lt

TMT

I usually don't keep circuit boards from any equipment that is to be junked,
unless they contain exotic parts such as RF components
(mixers/transformers/oscillators/etc), unique analog components such as
hard-to-find op-amps, A-D, D-A converters or the like. I'll recover those
components and throw away the rest of the board
If you can easily identify power transformers, I suggest that those be
marked and stored.
I usually like to keep power transistors, heat sinks, large computer-grade
electrolytics, potentiometers, and hardware such as knobs, handles, etc.
I guess that in a nutshell, I tend to throw away the stuff that's easily
purchased new, and stuff that's just too tedious to recover.

--
Dave M
MasonDG44 at comcast dot net (Just subsitute the appropriate characters in
the address)

Never take a laxative and a sleeping pill at the same time!!

 

[Roger Hamlett]

<Searcher7@mail.con2.com> wrote in message
news:1119630929.669564.123610@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

Can I get recomendations for the most accurate electronic timer that I
can buy?

It must to be accurate to within 1/60th of a second over the course of
6 hours.

Is something like this commercially available, or will I have to build
it, or have someone build it?

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks a lot.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
You really need to say more about the enviroment.

Crystals, can relatively easily get to 1ppm. (you need just slightly
better than this), and with a crystal oven to control the temperature,
accuracies better that 0.1ppm, are relatively easy. Omega offer off the
shelf timing systems warranted to better than this.
Some radio transmitters in most countries have warranted accuracies
(usually on the long-wave), and a receiver, with a PLL locked onto this
can give superb accuracies (some warrant 0.01ppm, and some go even
further - in the UK, the 60KHz used for this, is maintained to better that
2 parts in 10^12). In the US, WWVB, broadcasts a similar signal.
These same transmitters are usually the ones carrying MSF time and date
information, and the master source is usually now an atomic clock. Some of
the receiver systems for these, have inputs for the distance to the
transmitter, and give 'real time', compensated for this to mSec or better
accuracies.
The master clock for the GPS system, provides similar accuracies. A
receiver, with local PLL, can be used again to get access to this clock.
Mains provides good 'long term' accuracy, but in the short term is poor,
and would not meet your requirements in this regard.
So, if you have access to radio reception, look at using a local
oscillator locked to the WWVB transmissions. Otherwise you will need to
consider a high accuracy crystal, in a suitable oven. If internet
connectivity is available, you could use a time server, and a local clock
slaved to this (units to do this are off the sheld items).
In the UK, one of th companies doing a range of products using these
technologies, are:
http://www.steatite.co.uk/downloads/time_freq_linecard.pdf

Best Wishes

 

[Joerg]

Hello Darren,

Can I get recomendations for the most accurate electronic timer that I
can buy?

It must to be accurate to within 1/60th of a second over the course of
6 hours.

This lets me assume that you need some kind of electronic triggering.
1/60th of a second is to precise for a finger to push a button.

Is something like this commercially available, or will I have to build
it, or have someone build it?

Check out the sports markets. The devices for swimming relay contests
may not quite offer 6 hours but equipment for marathons or triathlons
should. It has been a while since I did competition swimming but I
vaguely remember that the stuff mostly came from the major watch
companies, usually from Switzerland.

Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com

 

[petrus bitbyter]

"Too_Many_Tools" <too_many_tools@yahoo.com> schreef in bericht
news:1119643269.292995.117670@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...

I am crossposting this question since I think it will be of general
interest...sorry if that offends someone.

Now to the questions....what kinds of electronic and mechanical "trash"
is WORTH disassembling and keeping for parts to build other projects?

What did you keep that you should have thrown long ago?

What did you throw that you still kick yourself for tossing?

I look forward to your suggestions, experiences and jokes. ;&lt

TMT

Too much, too long.

petrus bitbyter

 

[Jonathan Kirwan]

On Fri, 24 Jun 2005 16:36:09 -0400, "DaveM"
<masondg4499@comcast99.net> wrote:

Searcher7@mail.con2.com> wrote in message
news:1119630929.669564.123610@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
Can I get recomendations for the most accurate electronic timer that I
can buy?

It must to be accurate to within 1/60th of a second over the course of
6 hours.

Is something like this commercially available, or will I have to build
it, or have someone build it?

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks a lot.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.


Dan,
Sadly enough, there have been a number of replies to your question, but none
have attempted to answer it directly.
But, you didn't state the intended use or desired method of operation of the
timer. Assuming that you are looking for a handheld timer suitable for
tasks such as cooking or sunbathing, almost any of the common timers
available at outlets such as Radio Shack, Target, Walmart, etc. should fill
your bill. They are all crystal controlled, and although their accuracy
isn't usually stated in the specs, they should easily meet your
requirements.
If you're looking for an industrial timer that can control other devices,
then you need to specify what kind of equipment or the power requirements of
the equipment.

I had thought that maintaining an accumulated deviation of no greater
than 1/60 sec in 6 hours is about like 24 seconds/year or 2 seconds a
month. This is <1ppm drift. Without being temperature stable, this
is not so easy, is it?

Jon

 

[Tim Wescott]

DaveM wrote:

"Too_Many_Tools" <too_many_tools@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1119643269.292995.117670@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...

I am crossposting this question since I think it will be of general
interest...sorry if that offends someone.

Now to the questions....what kinds of electronic and mechanical "trash"
is WORTH disassembling and keeping for parts to build other projects?

What did you keep that you should have thrown long ago?

What did you throw that you still kick yourself for tossing?

I look forward to your suggestions, experiences and jokes. ;&lt

TMT



I usually don't keep circuit boards from any equipment that is to be junked,
unless they contain exotic parts such as RF components
(mixers/transformers/oscillators/etc), unique analog components such as
hard-to-find op-amps, A-D, D-A converters or the like. I'll recover those
components and throw away the rest of the board
If you can easily identify power transformers, I suggest that those be
marked and stored.
I usually like to keep power transistors, heat sinks, large computer-grade
electrolytics, potentiometers, and hardware such as knobs, handles, etc.
I guess that in a nutshell, I tend to throw away the stuff that's easily
purchased new, and stuff that's just too tedious to recover.

New cases for electronics cost an arm and a leg. If it looks like the

case can be reused -- keep it!

--
-------------------------------------------
Tim Wescott
Wescott Design Services
http://www.wescottdesign.com