Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[Ron(UK)]

Rheilly Phoull wrote:

One day NSM got dressed and committed to text


darrin_p_s@att.net> wrote in message
news:1119405075.109491.316040@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...


Thanks for the reply.

When I said switch I was thinking lid switch, not the level switch as
someone on another forum reported a similar problem to mine that
ended up being the lid switch.

I just took the thing apart, and the fuse is OK, but the lid switch
could be bad I THINK!

Could be. Something is stopping the timer from proceeding on.

N


Hmmm, a lot of washers dont use the lid interlock during the 'fill' cycle
only during 'spin'. I second the timer.

--
Regards ..... Rheilly Phoull


Heating element o/c?

Ron

--

www.lunevalleyaudio.com

 

[CRaSH]

dig154 wrote:

You might give "CA" adhesive a try. It's found in hobby shops and is
the glue of choice for model builders. Awesome stuff.

Only disadvantage is that it sets up immediately, and has a bad habit of
also gluing your fingers together if you're the least bit sloppy (super
glue),,, But a hobby shop would be a great place to inquire, as they carry
a wide range of adhesives...........

 

[Ol' Duffer]

In article <1119399042.910801.258310@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>,
stokesb@cox.net says...

The reason the SDA3202-2 is hard to change is the fact that its mounted
on a small board in the tuner that has metal brackets on each side of
it, and it solders all the way through the board, not just on the end
of the legs, so the only way I know to change it is to have small
snips, cut off all the legs, remove the body of the chip, then with a
very small soldering iron try to heat one leg at a time as you pull
each out until they are all removed, the carefully solder wick the
excess solder off which is hard because it goes clear through the
board, then poke any plugged holes clean with a small needle. All this
is done with numerous surface mount resistors and transistors right
where you are working, so careful going. After all this simply mount
and solder the new chip in and set is fixed 100% of the time. I've done
30 or 40 of these over the years.

Wow, that's the hard way! I just clip the corner of the frame with
diagonal cutters, desolder a couple of ground points and bend it out
of the way. Then it's close quarters but you can get at all the leads
with a solder sucker. Half hour repair. Not quite 100% fix rate, as
the tuners occaisionally have problems other than the SDA chip.

 

[Wayne Tiffany]

To test the lid switch, I would think you could jump across it to see what
happened then.

WT

<darrin_p_s@att.net> wrote in message
news:1119447454.607782.22360@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

I did a little digging, and it seems that a Maytag will fill up with a
bad lid switch and not operate once filled. This SEEMED to support the
lid switch issue.

I guess it could be the timer, but at less than a year old surely it
wouldn't have broken down already would it?

Before, when I replaced the timer, I could get some action out of it
from time to time as it kind of died gradually. This problem happened
in an instant...not like a wearing down of something, but rather a
break.

Of course, maybe it is just me not wanting to fork over another $100
for a timer (robbery I know, but that is the price) when the entire
switch mechanism is around $25 (still robbery, but not as hard on my
wallet).

 

[Rich Grise]

On Wed, 22 Jun 2005 07:34:34 +0000, Kevin Aylward wrote:

But, this is out of context. When someone says that they are analysing
AC and DC separately, they don't *really* mean that they are completely
oblivious and are ignoring the fact that, e.g. an inductor might
saturate if it has a DC current through it. They simple mean that, for
the ac analysis the dc level is not relevant and take it as already read
that such analyses is performed with the *correct* value of inductance
for the inductor.

But, since it's a test question, and "saturation flux density" wasn't
given as a parameter, I believe it's safe to surmise that the teacher
meant for the elements to be treated as ideal components.

Thanks,
Rich

 

[Rich Grise]

On Wed, 22 Jun 2005 05:30:08 -0700, cs_posting wrote:

Kevin Aylward wrote:

Like, if we say "there is a capacitance in the circuit", when we are
referring to the capacitor itself, it just sounds like the person is an
amateur. Its almost as bad as "current flow".

So, as far as making oneself clearly understood in electrical
engineering, one should, restrict to terms such as capacitors having
capacitance and inductors having inductance. This discussion itself is
proof enogh why this should be the case.

But what if the "capacitance" present is actually a property of
something other than a part sold as a "capacitor"?

It usually is. ;-)

Cheers!
Rich

 

[ehsjr]

Kevin Aylward wrote:

ehsjr wrote:

Kevin Aylward wrote:


All this misses the point, which was the analysis of
an R,L,C load impedance in the presence of both a DC voltage
and an AC signal. The answer given seemed to indicate that
you analyze the circuit for AC and for DC separately.


One does. However, this doesn't meant that one completely ignores DC
conditions on component parameter values.

The issue here is one of the context of the claim.


If you don't consider saturation, your analysis could be wrong.
Neither the AC signal by itself, nor the DC voltage by itself,
might cause a current at or over the saturation point, if
there is one. But combined, the possibility exists that
saturation might occur. The DC voltage alone might cause
a current at or over Isat, while the AC signal might result in
currents below Isat. The point being that when analyzing
the circuit in the presence of an AC signal, you must
at the same time consider the DC voltage. Separate analysis
could result in the wrong answer.



But, this is out of context. When someone says that they are analysing
AC and DC separately, they don't *really* mean that they are completely
oblivious and are ignoring the fact that, e.g. an inductor might
saturate if it has a DC current through it. They simple mean that, for
the ac analysis the dc level is not relevant and take it as already read
that such analyses is performed with the *correct* value of inductance
for the inductor.

Kevin,

I'm glad you know what people *really* mean. However, you
*really* do need to read the relevant posts again.
Here's the context:

Er - there are cases where the L will be saturated by
the DC component.

What you are suggesting is a good issue to keep in mind for the real
world (and one I had overlooked).

Saturation was overlooked. Case closed.

<snip>

Kevin Aylward
informationEXTRACT@anasoft.co.uk
http://www.anasoft.co.uk
SuperSpice, a very affordable Mixed-Mode
Windows Simulator with Schematic Capture,
Waveform Display, FFT's and Filter Design.

 

[NSM]

"Rheilly Phoull" <Rheilly@bigpong.com> wrote in message
news:42b8f6a6$0$18639$14726298@news.sunsite.dk...

Hmmm, a lot of washers dont use the lid interlock during the 'fill' cycle
only during 'spin'. I second the timer.

Mine won't wash if the lid is up ...

N

 

[Kevin Aylward]

ehsjr wrote:

Kevin Aylward wrote:
ehsjr wrote:

Kevin Aylward wrote:


All this misses the point, which was the analysis of
an R,L,C load impedance in the presence of both a DC voltage
and an AC signal. The answer given seemed to indicate that
you analyze the circuit for AC and for DC separately.


One does. However, this doesn't meant that one completely ignores DC
conditions on component parameter values.

The issue here is one of the context of the claim.


If you don't consider saturation, your analysis could be wrong.
Neither the AC signal by itself, nor the DC voltage by itself,
might cause a current at or over the saturation point, if
there is one. But combined, the possibility exists that
saturation might occur. The DC voltage alone might cause
a current at or over Isat, while the AC signal might result in
currents below Isat. The point being that when analyzing
the circuit in the presence of an AC signal, you must
at the same time consider the DC voltage. Separate analysis
could result in the wrong answer.



But, this is out of context. When someone says that they are
analysing AC and DC separately, they don't *really* mean that they
are completely oblivious and are ignoring the fact that, e.g. an
inductor might saturate if it has a DC current through it. They
simple mean that, for the ac analysis the dc level is not relevant
and take it as already read that such analyses is performed with the
*correct* value of inductance for the inductor.

Kevin,

I'm glad you know what people *really* mean. However, you
*really* do need to read the relevant posts again.
Here's the context:

Er - there are cases where the L will be saturated by
the DC component.

What you are suggesting is a good issue to keep in mind for the real
world (and one I had overlooked).

Saturation was overlooked. Case closed.

Well, I suppose I will have to qualify that with "those that really know
what they are doing"

Its so obvious to pros that inductors might well saturate, that they
simply wont address that issue when responding to basic electrical
questions on AC and DC analysis. You can't qualify everything one says.
One has to assume something to avoid reams of verbiage.

Kevin Aylward
informationEXTRACT@anasoft.co.uk
http://www.anasoft.co.uk
SuperSpice, a very affordable Mixed-Mode
Windows Simulator with Schematic Capture,
Waveform Display, FFT's and Filter Design.

 

[NSM]

<darrin_p_s@att.net> wrote in message
news:1119447454.607782.22360@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

Before, when I replaced the timer, I could get some action out of it
from time to time as it kind of died gradually. This problem happened
in an instant...not like a wearing down of something, but rather a
break.

In the old days when I had more time I was known to crack those open and
repair the insides!

N

 

[NSM]

<charles.smithe@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1119472493.124653.200430@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...

Does anyone know if there is such a device that will link to a serial
port of a PC and report on the electricity meter reading for a domestic
property?

Why?

N

 

[kip]

Pull off the screen and look into the CRT,s
and tell us are they all equal in brightness and clarity.

kip

"Raventy" <ano316gamer@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:1119480369.207025.191200@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

ah well the RPTV is a 95. Anything you think I could do besides calling
a tech in?(gaurenteed not to be cheap)

 

[3T39]

Hello, dikwag@gmail.com!
You wrote on 22 Jun 2005 11:55:59 -0700:

d> Only the vertical lines are out of focus, all colors and black. All
d> else is great.
d> Tried the digital setup after Password, and have opened the case but
d> have not been able to figure out just what controls the focus.
d> Thanks for looking, Richard



I think this is a badged SONY with the 21" Trinitron CRT . There is a focus
control on the Lopt (line output transformer) Find a large wire with a big
rubber ring where it attaches to the back of the CRT follow it down to the
lopt and on the body of the lopt there should be two vertically mounted
rotary controls, one is the screen Grid the other is the focus. These big
sets sometimes have the focus control seperate from the lopt. BE AWARE THAT
THE VOLTAGES AROUND THIS AREA ARE LETHAL. USE A LOOoooNG Insulated crosshead
screwdriver. keep one hand in your pocket so you can't ground yourself.
It's best to use a big mirror to check how your doing, because you really
dont want to stretch around a big set like this with one hand in the HV just
to see the screen.
With best regards, 3T39. E-mail: rubbishrat@hotmail.com

 

[Jason D.]

On 20 Jun 2005 20:40:07 -0700, dkuhajda@locl.net wrote:

The convergence eeprom is resettable via the convergence adjust menu.
I forget the exact sequence, but it is possible. It is not accessable
from the regular service menu.

Well, anybody with schematic for TN50X81 or similar chassis (TAC9960
or so) have the steps for resetting convergence eeprom data?

Downloaded service manual has several pages missing (intentionally?)
and the nearest service manual belongs to competitor's which my boss
is very relucently to contact. I'm not sure if Jack is going to
contact Toshiba for details that I need.

Yes, I work for a good shop by the way just that we don't service
Toshiba that often. Our shop majors in RCA, Philips, JVC, Citizen,
several models as well.

I need the info so I can fully trouble shoot and give good estimate on
this projector tv on that type of convergence problem using expensive
ICs. The toshiba's convergence module is NLA but parts within are
available.

Cheers, Wizard

 

[3T39]

Hello, ZZactly@aol.com!
You wrote on 22 Jun 2005 17:08:19 -0700:

Z> Problem is, if it drifted once it'll probably drift again. Sometimes
Z> it's not the fly, sometimes it's the CRT.

Yep, very true, but I'd try a tweak first, it's often enough to last a while
before component values drift again or the CRT loses it's oomph, and by then
21" TFTs might be cheap enough to replace it.

With best regards, 3T39. E-mail: rubbishrat@hotmail.com

 

[3T39]

Hello, NSM!
You wrote on Wed, 22 Jun 2005 21:12:11 GMT:

??>> Does anyone know if there is such a device that will link to a serial
??>> port of a PC and report on the electricity meter reading for a
??>> domestic property?

N> Why?

Not why, WATT! :^)
At a guess it's probably a landlord wanting to keep a sharp eye on the
tenants.
I don't think it would be legal to hook a W/H meter up to a supply meter but
I suppose a cheap webcam might give you a remote reading.

With best regards, 3T39. E-mail: rubbishrat@hotmail.com

 

[NSM]

"3T39" <rubbishrat@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:42ba059d$0$24496$da0feed9@news.zen.co.uk...

??>> Does anyone know if there is such a device that will link to a
serial
??>> port of a PC and report on the electricity meter reading for a
??>> domestic property?

N> Why?

Not why, WATT! :^)
At a guess it's probably a landlord wanting to keep a sharp eye on the
tenants.
I don't think it would be legal to hook a W/H meter up to a supply meter
but
I suppose a cheap webcam might give you a remote reading.

Some specifics would help. Some meters do now report remotely.

N

 

[howard]

Ed Wrote:

I seem to have a problem with my Panasonic PV-DV203D.


Have same problem with mine. Power light blinks TWICE.

I have ordered the service manuals, maybe they will help.

Check out
http://www.camcorderinfo.com/bbs/showthread.php?t=109308&page=1&pp=15

Good Luck.

--
howard

 

[JANA]

In many of the Sony monitors, there are a set of focus pots. In most their
models there is one for the vertical, and one for the horizontal plane. Use
an insulated non metallic screwdriver to adjust these. If you are extremely
careful, you can adjust these with your fingers, but take care not to
accidentally touch anything.

If the focus has drifted out, there is a defect in the monitor. Either it is
with the high voltage supply, or the CRT is starting to fail. These two
types of failures are common in many of these monitors.

--

JANA
_____


<dikwag@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1119466559.455814.260800@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
Only the vertical lines are out of focus, all colors and black. All
else is great.
Tried the digital setup after Password, and have opened the case but
have not been able to figure out just what controls the focus.
Thanks for looking, Richard

 

[Mike Berger]

Advance the timer manually and see if the pump works.

darrin_p_s@att.net wrote:

My 12 year old Maytag (Model LAT8034AAE) just stopped working. It
filled with water and then stopped. The timer does not advance but the
light comes on. I replaced the timer less than a year ago (different
symptom then).

So, it is full of water, and no matter what I do it will not turn on
although the light does stay on even when the lid is in the upright
position.

Any idea what it might be?

Could it be that the switch died in mid-action? Again, it did know to
fill with water before it stopped.

Thanks!