Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[TokaMundo]

On Sun, 19 Jun 2005 17:05:46 -0500, John Fields
<jfields@austininstruments.com> Gave us:

Well, I guess it's finally time to let you know that I own you.

Not. You are a legend... but only in your own mind.

I set
the hook

Not only are you NOT a fisher of men, you are not a fisher of
anything except your own little dingleberries in your own little
toilet bowl world. Reel THAT in, asswipe.

and I've been reeling you in and giving you some line on
occasion, playing you to make you think you've got some choice in the
matter, but you don't. Get used to it.

You are an idiot, and you will die an old fart fucktard several
years before I die, and when I die, my accomplishments in the world
will be far greater than your tripe ever was. THAT is the part that
pisses your old fuckhead, E-1 grade retarded ass off the most. Sad,
but true.

I post and you're compelled to try to one-up me with filth which
you're used to spewing on the maroons you've been ass-ociating with
over the past few years, but it won't work.

What "maroons" exactly would that be? Cite, jackass.

I never once mentioned any "maroons".

I did mention some very respected facilities that I had occasion to
perform work for. I never once, however, mentioned any single
persons, so, asswipe, tell us who these "maroons"

To think that you criticize spelling, yet spew stupid shit like
"maroons".

It can't, and the pitiful part is that you don't even know why it
can't.

You don't know why anything is in this world. You don't even know
what path I will next be manipulating your lame ass down.

Here's a clue; take a look at your last responses.

Right. Me responding to your jack-brained misogynistic tripe.

There's nothing
imaginative about them, they're merely gut-level responses to my
more-or-less carefully crafted flames which have been roasting you
ever since you got back on the street and you decided to show your ass
back here.

You are an idiot. Who has who here? I returned to find you the
same, old retarded fuckface that you were two years ago. Yo are hard
wired stupid, boy.

Post a list of your vast and varied accomplishments. I'll keep an
eye open for them. Until then your posts are no more than pabulum.

Interestingly, most of your replies reek of feces, so I think a fair
assumption would be that you spent a lot of time with a dick up your
ass over the past few years. Or perhaps you were the pitcher? No big
difference...

Hahaha... and you think that you have ME on a hook... Hahahahah...

I have you on a set of puppet strings, dumbass.

Ever see the film "Saw"?

Or, I could be totally wrong and you could be the best thing that ever
happened.

If that's true, how about posting your plan?

I plan to ignore you. That will be the best thing in these groups.

The next best thing would be if everyone else ignored you as well.

 

[John Fields]

On Mon, 20 Jun 2005 10:31:33 GMT, TokaMundo <TokaMundo@weedizgood.org>
wrote:

On Sun, 19 Jun 2005 17:05:46 -0500, John Fields
jfields@austininstruments.com> Gave us:

Or, I could be totally wrong and you could be the best thing that ever
happened.

If that's true, how about posting your plan?

I plan to ignore you. That will be the best thing in these groups.
The next best thing would be if everyone else ignored you as well.

---
Ahhh... I'll be looking forward to your silence, as I'm sure 'most
everyone here will be too. Put the plan into practice, if you can,
you weak-willed nothing.

--
John Fields
Professional Circuit Designer

 

[Rono]

You have to replace the EEPROM, &
Microprocessor! E-Mail me if you need
the part #'. Rono.

 

[Allodoxaphobia]

On 20 Jun 2005 06:51:38 -0700, glenni@bigfoot.com wrote:

shoppa@trailing-edge.com wrote:

<-snip->

Am I correct that the last(white) stripe indicates that they
are fusible?
Or is this some mil-spec quality stripe?

Yes you are correct Tim.

usenet can be soooo entertaining!

In addition: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Top-posting

 

[Richard the Dreaded Liber]

On Sun, 19 Jun 2005 18:35:58 +0000, TokaMundo wrote:

On Sun, 19 Jun 2005 13:08:52 -0500, John Fields
jfields@austininstruments.com> Gave us:


But a lot more confusing. Yours would read like this:

"Too bad newsreaders don't include a nice-checker. The simplest
implementation would just be a reverse spell-checker, that deleted words
like and and. Some people's posts would get a *lot* shorter."

You could be a bit more retarded, but I do not see how.

I generally watch threads; when I see two names alternate on a really deep
one, I know I can just scroll down, shift-rightclick, "mark as read".

When someone new chimes in, I usually check to see what they have
to say, and if maybe something interesting came up in the piss
contest; same if somebody I respect chimes in - that usually means
that the thread has taken an interesting enough turn for me to
bother to read the posts.

And when three of the posts by the new guy are nothing but what
I see here, I just very quietly click "Articles - Plonk Author".

It makes the thread-checking a little less tedious. ;-)

Cheers!
Rich

 

[Rich Grise]

On Sat, 18 Jun 2005 06:42:29 -0700, cs_posting wrote:

ehsjr wrote:
cs_posting@hotmail.com wrote:

The L and the C don't care about your DC offset, so you must still
think of the signal as AC in order to understand their behavior. They
don't care that the overall signal doesn't reverse polarity, they only
care that derivative of voltage with respect to time is non-zero.


Er - there are cases where the L will be saturated by the DC component.

What you are suggesting is a good issue to keep in mind for the real world
(and one I had overlooked).

However, what you have actually said is not true.

An inductance - a specific element we both referred to as L - will not
saturate. Rather it will behave in accordance with the simple
mathematical model of inductance.

The real-world magnetic device chosen to play the role of an inductor can
saturate, and it's something we might need to think about. However the
propensity towards saturation would need to be specified by additional
parameters beyond a simple constant value of L. While we're at it, we
should put in parasitic resistance, temperature dependence, possible
effects of external fields, and probably some other things that I'm not
thinking about.

If asked to solve a problem with an inductance, you treat it as such. If
asked to solve a problem with an inductor, you have to consider the
broader properties of that device, of which inductance is only one, and
not necesssarily a constant one.

I remember learning this very thing at a bench in USAF electronics tech
school. We did the numbers on paper, and then hooked up a real circuit
and all of the phases were off from what we were expecting from the
numbers because we had neglected the inductor's own resistance. Once
we put that back into our equations, of course, it all came out right.

Cheers!
Rich

 

[Mike Berger]

If it's completely dead I'd start with the power supply.

legolas@imailbox.com wrote:

Hi. Our subject LCD TV has suddenly gone completely dead. I cannot find
any obvious fuse. What would be a good starting point for
toubleshooting this? It was a good kitchen TV. I'd hate to toss it
without trying to determine if something like an accessible, and
replaceable, electrolytic capacitor might be the problem. I have some
modest ability in working with things electrical. Thanks.

 

[Rich Grise]

On Sun, 19 Jun 2005 16:09:52 -0700, cs_posting wrote:

ehsjr wrote:
cs_posting@hotmail.com wrote:

You mentioned the behavior of L and C, which refers to the way the
*component* represented by C and the *component* represented by L react.

The only components which can be represented by a single parameter L or C
are ideal components, which will always have exactly that value. They
can't saturate, because their value is mathematically constant. Though you
probably can't buy them at digi-key ;-) Compents that you can buy cannot
be represented by a single constant parameter, though you may be able to
approximate them as such for a useful range of operation.

What I referred to is a circuit element that can saturate, as per the
definition for inductance.

http://dictionary.reference.com/search?q=inductance
"1. The property of an electric circuit by which an electromotive
force is induced in it as the result of a changing magnetic flux.
2. A circuit element, typically a conducting coil, in which
electromotive force is generated by electromagnetic induction."

Not sure about this, but can the air-core inductor you just descrived
saturate? Or is it primarily a funtion of a core material like iron or
ferrite saturating?

"... A third, classical definition of saturation is that total magnetic
saturation occurs when all of the magnetic domains are aligned and the
permeability relative to that of air becomes one. For pipeline steels,
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
this occurs at very high field levels (above 1000 Oersted) and is
impractical for flux leakage in-line inspection applications...."

From http://www.battelle.org/pipetechnology/MFL/Links/Permeability.html
the second hit at:
http://www.google.com/search?q=%22magnetic+saturation%22

So, I'm guessing, No and Yes. ;-)

Cheers!
Rich

 

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article <d99bb1lm89qs8rulckpdtecdcqq2dulg2c@4ax.com>,
Laurence Payne <lp@laurenceNOSPAMpayne.freeserve.co.uk> wrote:

If you're not equipped for desoldering a switch, are you sure you
should be contemplating a recap?

I'd normally remove a multipole switch by clipping the contacts etc to
minimise damage to the pcb. Many are a pretty tight mechanical fit.

And I do have a desolder station.

--
*If a pig loses its voice, is it disgruntled? *

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

 

[James Sweet]

"Mike Berger" <berger@shout.net> wrote in message
news:d96n8b$edu$2@roundup.shout.net...

If it's completely dead I'd start with the power supply.

And I'll add that if the fuse is blown, something else *is* wrong, so don't
just pop a new fuse in, but a blown fuse is a clue pointing towards a fairly
simple problem.

 

[Vlad]

On Wed, 15 Jun 2005 16:37:55 -0500, "CRaSH" <sorry@aint-here.spam.com>
wrote:

NSM wrote:
never reads the newsgroup. Maybe we should copy all our messages to
every religion NG in case one of the readers needs to fix his TV or
coffee maker.



Screw'm - let'm have a prayer circle and see how far they get.........

God told him to post on this group.It has a higher percentage of
people that needs to be saved . They have been overcharging the
public for simple repairs like $100.00 for a new fuse

 

[Ryan weihl]

badaczewski@gmail.com wrote:

I recently replaced a switch(interupter) and a duplex
outlet(receptacle) in my home. The switch had the ability to turn
on/off power to the top outlet on the duplex receptacle. After
replacing the switch and the receptacle I get no response from the
switch. Both the top and bottom outlets on the receptacle have power,
but I can no longer turn off the power to the top outlet of the duplex
receptacle. I'm using Leviton Decora products and have confirmed by
looking at the old switch and recpetacle that I have bought the proper
replacements. I've included a link to a diagram I drew of my current
wire setup, can anyone give me some insight into why the switch doesn't
work?

Here is the link:
http://www.strangemedia.net/receptacle.gif

P.S - Before replacing anything I wrote down the placement of all the
wires and I don't believe the wires are connected incorrectly.

and before you replaced the switch you turned the breaker off or

removed the fuse? did you replace fuse or turn the breaker on?

 

[CRaSH]

Vlad wrote:

God told him to post on this group.It has a higher percentage of
people that needs to be saved . They have been overcharging the
public for simple repairs like $100.00 for a new fuse

Statement:
1 fuse: $1.00
Knowing what it is, where it is, and what to do with it, plus checking
associated circuitry: $99.00

Total due $100.00

Maybe god should have told him the fuse was blown instead.............

 

[David]

<badaczewski@gmail.com> wrote in message news:1119299518.746797.3940@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

I recently replaced a switch(interupter) and a duplex
outlet(receptacle) in my home. The switch had the ability to turn
on/off power to the top outlet on the duplex receptacle. After
replacing the switch and the receptacle I get no response from the
switch. Both the top and bottom outlets on the receptacle have power,
but I can no longer turn off the power to the top outlet of the duplex
receptacle. I'm using Leviton Decora products and have confirmed by
looking at the old switch and recpetacle that I have bought the proper
replacements. I've included a link to a diagram I drew of my current
wire setup, can anyone give me some insight into why the switch doesn't
work?
You need to remove the link that connects the top and bottom outlet together on the 'hot' side.

David

 

[Ken Weitzel]

badaczewski@gmail.com wrote:

I recently replaced a switch(interupter) and a duplex
outlet(receptacle) in my home. The switch had the ability to turn
on/off power to the top outlet on the duplex receptacle. After
replacing the switch and the receptacle I get no response from the
switch. Both the top and bottom outlets on the receptacle have power,
but I can no longer turn off the power to the top outlet of the duplex
receptacle. I'm using Levition Decora products and have confirmed by
looking at the old switch and recpetacle that I have bought the proper
replacements. I've included a link to a diagram I drew of my current
wire setup, can anyone give me some insight into why the switch doesn't
work?

Here is the link:
http://www.strangemedia.net/receptacle.gif

P.S - Before replacing anything I wrote down the placement of all the
wires and I don't believe the wires are connected incorrectly.

Hi...

Outlets are supplied with jumpers that connect both sides
together (so that one pair of wires can operate both outlets)

In your case I imagine you didn't. Take a look at the
sides where the screws are, and betcha you'll find tabs
connecting them.

Use a pair of pliers to break them away.

Naturally turn off the breaker or possibly two breakers
first.

Ken

 

[Rono]

Have to order, & replace both items, or
unit will return to same fault! Rono.

Location # N801: EEPROM
P # 352-24080-50-E500

Location # N 201: Microprocessor
P # 352-88230-10

 

[Sam Goldwasser]

badaczewski@gmail.com writes:

I recently replaced a switch(interupter) and a duplex
outlet(receptacle) in my home. The switch had the ability to turn
on/off power to the top outlet on the duplex receptacle. After
replacing the switch and the receptacle I get no response from the
switch. Both the top and bottom outlets on the receptacle have power,
but I can no longer turn off the power to the top outlet of the duplex
receptacle. I'm using Leviton Decora products and have confirmed by
looking at the old switch and recpetacle that I have bought the proper
replacements. I've included a link to a diagram I drew of my current
wire setup, can anyone give me some insight into why the switch doesn't
work?

Here is the link:
http://www.strangemedia.net/receptacle.gif

P.S - Before replacing anything I wrote down the placement of all the
wires and I don't believe the wires are connected incorrectly.

You need to break off the link connecting the Hot side of the top and bottom
recepticals.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ Mirror: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Note: These links are hopefully temporary until we can sort out the excessive
traffic on Repairfaq.org.

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name is included in the subject line. Or, you can
contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.

 

[NSM]

"Vlad" <Bla@dot.com> wrote in message
news:at8eb1th0q96vvr5em0g2kh0m7almo0fd9@4ax.com...

On Wed, 15 Jun 2005 16:37:55 -0500, "CRaSH" <sorry@aint-here.spam.com
wrote:

God told him to post on this group.It has a higher percentage of
people that needs to be saved . They have been overcharging the
public for simple repairs like $100.00 for a new fuse

I used to drive to people's homes and do electrical repairs for 75 cents
plus parts. That was a VERY long time ago. Now I bill out $150 per hour for
computer consultation. Times have changed.

N

 

[DaveM]

<badaczewski@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1119310343.607612.256760@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

Yes, those of you that told me that I probably didn't break the link on
the hot side are correct! And yes I make sure to to turn off all
breakers powering the room before working on the receptacle. Folks, I
hope there is some science a neat way to break the connection on the
hot side(red, black side in my case...also the brass screw side). I'm
going to do some research about breaking this link before I do it. But
if anyone has any experience breaking the link on a standard duplex
Leviton receptacle I would love some pointers. I updated my diagram to
illustrate what I believe you all recommend I do.

http://www.strangemedia.net/receptacle.gif

Get a pair of wire cutters. Clip the link at each end so that there's no
danger of the ends touching again. Reassemble.

--
Dave M
MasonDG44 at comcast dot net (Just subsitute the appropriate characters in
the address)

Never take a laxative and a sleeping pill at the same time!!

 

[Sam Goldwasser]

"DaveM" <masondg4499@comcast99.net> writes:

badaczewski@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1119310343.607612.256760@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
Yes, those of you that told me that I probably didn't break the link on
the hot side are correct! And yes I make sure to to turn off all
breakers powering the room before working on the receptacle. Folks, I
hope there is some science a neat way to break the connection on the
hot side(red, black side in my case...also the brass screw side). I'm
going to do some research about breaking this link before I do it. But
if anyone has any experience breaking the link on a standard duplex
Leviton receptacle I would love some pointers. I updated my diagram to
illustrate what I believe you all recommend I do.

http://www.strangemedia.net/receptacle.gif



Get a pair of wire cutters. Clip the link at each end so that there's no
danger of the ends touching again. Reassemble.

Usually, you can just bend the link back and forth a couple of times and
it will come off in its entirety.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ Mirror: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Note: These links are hopefully temporary until we can sort out the excessive
traffic on Repairfaq.org.

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name is included in the subject line. Or, you can
contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.